How to Rebuild a Coleman Double Mantle Lantern Part I: Disassembly
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- Part 1 of a 2 part series. Coleman Factory Warranty Center graduate Frank Bebb gives step-by-step instructions to disassemble a Coleman Double Mantle Lantern to prepare for cleaning and rebuild. Written instructions to follow along can be found at: www.oldtowncoleman.com/learn/...
Coleman Factory Warranty Center graduate Frank Bebb gives step-by-step instructions to rebuild or refurbish Coleman gas pressure appliances. Trained at the Coleman Factory in Wichita, Kansas, he brings what he has learned at "Coleman School" to you in his teaching videos. A long-time collector, former owner of the #1 selling Coleman parts dealership in the world, former owner of the Coleman Warranty Center and The Old Town Coleman Museum in Yucca Valley, California, and current owner/webmaster of The Old Town Coleman Center, Frank has authored much of the Coleman repair instructions you will find on the web today. His "Safety First" instructions with the ominous black widow spider, a real-life warning read by thousands, along with his other written works can be found on his website.
Frank is now your host on the Old Town Coleman Video series, follow him for all the tips and tricks of the trade he has learned along the way.
For additional guidance, original manuals in PDF format, Parts illustrations, photos, the “Spit and Whittle Club”, valuable links, and so much more, go to:
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Keep ‘em Burnin’!! 🔥 - Навчання та стиль
This guy is the chief surgeon of his trade. Im going to pass your knowledge and experience to my kids. Keep up the good work
Wow . . . this is more than awesome ! My Dad was recently going to throw his original Coleman Lantern in the trash. Luckily I caught him and stopped the non-sense. I looked at the date and it was made October of 1956. 13 Years before I was born ! I'm going to re-build it thanks to you ! Much appreciated !!!!
Hi Frank! THIS is the video that got me into this strange obsession! I went from 1 CL2 3 years ago to about 65 Coleman lanterns today. I just finished rebuilding a 1953 220E tonight, and it ran great! I learned everything I know about them from you. Thanks, man! Bob.
Bob, oh no....65?!?! I'm sorry. eheheh...
Have an unfired 220e 1962, thank you for your educational videos. Just rebuild a 1940's 242c thanks to you. & in process of a 242b frm 30's
Super informative and thorough video! I bought one at a recent yard sale that looked great, only to find that the valve was locked up. I am 69 years old, a former Boy Scout an have always wanted one of these. YOUR video should help in putting it back to semi original condition. Thank you so much
I cannot tell you how helpful you have been to me with your videos. I have 8 220f's ranging from 8/64 to 1/70 and a few months back I set to rebuilding all but one (never fired). You have been a wealth of knowledge and saved me countless hours of wasted time. My lanterns look near mint and function flawlessly at this point. Thanks again!
Wow! What a joy it is to watch someone who knows what they are doing! I'm sure that it's from 20 years of learning. Great video! I really enjoy listening to you.
Frank , Frank , Frank where the hell have you been my friend ? ? ? Frank from montana.....I have only one word for you here it is,,,,,, please put out more videos. Ain't heard nothing from you in a long time.... ( so it's more then one word...
Awesome video.. totally impressed.. definitely knows what he is doing.. definitely speaking to my level.. thank you sir for all you do
Good to see you Frank!
Thank you for making these videos
great video from an experienced teacher
Thank you Frank!
I know I'm late to the party but thanks for the videos. I recently purchased a "birthday lantern" 10/78. It actually seems to pass the pressure startup procedures and looks clean so I'm going to put mantles on it and see if it works. If not it will be getting a rebuild.
I'm really glad I found your channel. Thanks for doing this.
Really good instructional video. Professionally done nicely. Thank you!
MANY thanks for making your knowledge available to the rest of us. I will be watching all of your videos, a few times each I am a slow learner.
just bought an old double mantle this video series is very helpful :)
Awesome video. Very well explained.
I recently in got a 11.51 Coleman lantern in really good shape. This guide is going to be extremely helpful thank you.
Great video, extremely valuable material for anyone interested in Coleman lanterns
Thanks, Frank!
Hands-down the best video I’ve seen on rebuilding a Coleman Lantern.
I just found your channel and I love Coleman Lanterns. They bring back fond memories camping and hunting. What an excellent technical documentary on lantern repairs. This channel is 1000% useful, informative and just plain fun! Thanks. I can't wait for new video from you. Cheers
Amazing lesson on disassemble? Thank you!
Dude thanks for the video as i did have to modify a tool to take out the check valve to service it and re install it with a rubber ring to help seal. What a great hobby
Excellent video! Clear steps, easy to follow, and very informative. Thanks for making it -- and thanks for being the expert that you are.
Thank You for Sharing your knowledge and experience it
has been very much appreciated and enlightening !
My pleasure David!
Excellent Job My Friend
This channel is gold!
Thank you!
I just bought a 220h from a yard sale that I gotta give a little TLC to bring it back to life for future camping trips. This is a very helpful video
Thanks for this video I just did a 8/63 200A and a 228F both run great with your help.
Glad I could help Jeff!
This is gonna be GREAT ! TAKE CARE..
I tore down my 1/60 228E down, and I had the same experience as you did when removing the tip cleaner housing. The entire valve assembly came out. A friend held the fount as I turned the wrench, he then clamped the valve assembly in a crescent wrench as I loosened the tip cleaner housing. Thanks for making this video, as I followed your advice on removing the tip cleaner housing. I definitely need to do the BB dance with the fount,as the bottom is caked with varnish. Thanks for making this video, so I can keep this 1/60 big hat burning.
Nice Vid. You're holding the Channel Lock pliers backwards. If you turn an adjustable wrench or this channel-lock the other way, it will tighten the jaw clamping pressure as you put force on it.
Brilliant Guy, So methodical, must admit I am worried about if I ever have to pull mine apart like this,
Awesome job
Another tip.. Turn you channel locks around when trying to loosen anything. The teeth on channel locks are sloped one way and are designed to "bite" or "grab" as force is applied. When used the way shown at 33:25 when removing the cap, they have a tendency to slip if your not careful.
He's a Master at using the Channel Locks in the direction used; you don't want to bite! Adjusting to the correct thickness is the secret...
Great tutorial.
I love your American made vise !!!!
Thanks for a great video!
Nice job on explanations. Much appreciated
Thank you!
Great video
Thank you- Great Video!
great video - thx for sharing !!!
I have a small addiction to Coleman lanterns. I have 5 of them and only one is working properly. This is going to be very helpful! I also have 2 Coleman space heaters, and 2 stoves. But the lanterns are above the rest. Thank you!
very helpful video!!
Just found a model 220D 1950 at a yard sale for $10. I hope to restore and get it lit. Thank for your video.
Fantastic!
very formative and well done Thanks
Thank you James!
Thank You! I think you taught us the coffee can top trick 20 years ago aswell!
15:47 Hi there. Hopefully you read these newer comments. Recently rebuilt a 12/73 220H using you video as a guide. To clean the tank, which was heavily varnished, I used a Costco Wholesale store degreaser (comes in 2x 1 gallon jugs). Full streanth and added some small nuts and bolts. Was by far the best stuff ever. After, sitting over night and with several shakes, it came out sparkling clean! My lantern was completely restored using all original parts but for a fuel cap gasket and pump reconditioning. Thanks for your help and give that degreaser a try it really works!
Great video....has helped a lot, thank you!
Thank you, glad I could help!
Talk about a niche! Great no-nonsense DiY. Dunno what’s up with ours, but perty sure rust isn’t an issue. Won’t stay lit easily. Probably just needs a good ol’ fashion broom.
Thanks!
Hello Frank! Very educational videos! Also, please tell your wife that she is doing a great job on the video recording! Don't change a thing!
I like the design of the factory tool to get that check valve out. I can probably make one out of a piece of thick wall steel pipe and a piece of all thread that screws into the check valve and a washer and a nut and welding a big nut onto the pipe. Or just use channel locks, vise grips or a pipe wrench to turn the pipe. Just trim the end of the pipe to fit in that groove.
That’s a nice Wilton bullet vice. I restored one a few years ago. It has a date stamp from 1972. It works like a dream. I fabricated my own stand and bracket using round metal pipe and some flat stock . I welded it to an 18 wheeler rim that was laying in my backyard to use as a base
You are the second one to mention my vice--thank you! Actually it was one of the tools that I bought during the yard sale where I bought the 1500+ lanterns & stoves. I have loved having it for 20 years now, and thanks to good folks like you, I love it even more! I'm waiting to build my workbench where it will be positioned properly, because where it is now is horrible.
@@OldTownColeman thats awesome. Never get rid of that….I’m passing mine along to my son. Those vices will last forever if you treat them right.
Another thing I found out if you have a thumbler tumbler model b the tank just fits. Pack some newspaper in and around the tank after loading it with your favorite tumbling media. You can use tumbling stones, ball, bearings, nuts, etc you can even add soap and water with it. Just block the holes with rubber stoppers that you can get at most hardware stores. If not you can use a silicone plug. Set it up and Tumble away. After I do suggest mixing up a solution of citric acid and water and pickling the inside. This is called passivate and citric acid is one of the two acids that will do this. The other one is called nitric acid more expensive turns your fingers yellow. This will make it harder in the future for corrosion to happen again. AKA much better than new. Thanks again for all your hard work and great lessons and tutorials.
This is amazing I have a couple old Coleman I was saving there use to be a guy that did yhis but he has passed I want to learn this so bad
Thank you brother, new sub, old burner..
Thanks!
great video, never knew all the parts and names.
I have 2 double mantel lanterns, One I bought in the early 70,s and another i found, abandoned out side an apartment. I've not used them in years and both have problems. Also I have an old 2 burner stove that I found in the junk, it worked for about 10 years, after replacing the generator and filler cap. At that time, pre computer, I had a huge amount of trouble finding any replacement parts.
DYI repairs may be a bit difficult for me to do, but I am subscribing as of now to learn how to DYI anyway
Superb video, Now for No.2 and subscribe.
Thank you Robert!
I just bought one. 2/1962 gonna need parts
Nice Wilton Vice!
I have a 1951 228E I need to clean. I bought it for 10 dollars and it works but the mantles burn kind of amber instead of bright white. I can take it apart because I have taken them apart before but I don't have the special tool you have to pull the check valve out. So I usually don't mess with it if I can help it. Looks like it has never been touched. It still had bad fuel in it when I got it plus it has that same 3 piece fuel cap with the hole in the side. Great video !!!
Labor of love.
I know I've already seen and commented on this video. However I'm back for reference, because I just got a 228E on ebay on the cheap. Incredibly, I just popped some. Mantles on and it fired right up on the fuel that was already in it. However, the cleaning lever and fuel valve are pretty hard to turn so I want to replace the packings. I'm back to see if the packing for the cleaning lever can be replaced without wrecking anything 🤣
Great tutorial. Wondering if you have any tips on changing the burner screen on a Coleman CL2?
Hey! Loving your content.. been falling in love with these fuel lanterns and stoves… I have a 220F that when it is running the fount gets really warm/hot.. what could this mean??
13:27 I bet the most "ideal" tool for that 9/16 nut would be what's called a "claw foot", it's just the head of an open end wrench with a square socket hole on the back where you can put in an extension at 90° that's long enough to clear over the top of the globe housing.
I used my Craftsman Crow-Foot wrench.
Hi Takachin! I'm watching from Japan! I love Coleman products, so I made a video too!
Takachin ko nichi wa! Where is your video?
At the beginning is a caution on the filler caps. After working on a few of these I was removing a cap and sure enough fuel sprayed out the hole - the warning is definitely for real. Now, I knew about the caps so it wasn't a problem but I hadn't experienced it. If it was lit it definitely could have been pretty bad. I now keep the two piece for display, and use newer caps when I run the lanterns. Be safe!
I've re-watched this series again hoping to figure out why my recently acquired 288 pulses. I have completely cleaned and rebuilt it, new generator, scoped and brushed the burner tubes and mixing chamber and even swapped out the valve with one I know works perfectly but no matter what I do this thing will not stay burning at a steady level. It doesn't strobe but more like it take a little more than a second to dim a bit and then another second to ramp up to full brightness and just keeps doing this. It does it all ALL brightness levels too (which is why I suspected the valve/fuel tube). Builds and hold pressure perfectly. It is just bizarre. All of these parts work perfectly when I swap them out onto another 288 but when I put them all back together as they were assembled by coleman and the pulsing begins. I even suspected bad fuel (brand new can btw) but even if I drain the fuel out and use it in another 288 it burns perfectly. Brand new fresh fuel into this one and the pulsing is there again. I am completely baffled.
Once again, thanks so much. A FOUNT of knowledge! Hehe. All the tips and tricks are invaluable. This is like a $500 course. I need to send you a few bucks man.
Hey, speaking of which, if you can do a rendition of Schools Out or Billion Dollar Babies here.....you could make a lot of money.
I had to seriously grind down a 9/16" wrench to get that burner nut. But.....now I have the tool.
Frank, can you make a video on cq lamp disassembly and repair?
A 9/16 "crows foot" might work excellent for getting at that base nut. I think that might be helpful to those who don't have the wrench you used in the video 👍 just stumbled upon the channel as I am purchasing three "new to me" lanterns and a catalytic heater on Monday. Just subbed 👍
You beat me to it, I've always seen them labeled as a "claw foot" though?
@@macgyver5108 Haha that very well may be the correct name. That's why I put it in quotations because that's just the name my pops always called it as I was growing up so it stuck with me. But hey at least you knew what I was talking about! 👍
@@yamahondazuki95 Called a "crowfoot" wrench because of its shape, this wrench was used in steam train repair work and to reach and to hold nuts and boltheads in difficult-to-reach places.Called a "crowfoot" wrench because of its shape, this wrench was used in steam train repair work and to reach and to hold nuts and boltheads in difficult-to-reach places.
Just got my hands on another 228E and that one is a bit rougher than the one I scored on ebay. I'm fully rebuilding this one. In order to clean the small parts, I've filled up my ultrasonic cleaner with vinegar and I'll tell you what, that works a treat! It's cleaning the brass parts very quickly. The rusty frame is sitting in an electrolysis bath right now too. I thi k I'll paint the frame with silver BBQ paint to protect it. I'm not concerned with the fact that it won't look fully original.
I can't seem to find any check valves on old Coleman Parts. I've had to buy a couple on ebay... And I need two more. Any tips on a better source for them?
My valve stem on my 220E Coleman is kind of tight, opening and closing. Do I need to replace the packing? Or just clean it up , Using a wire brush and Lubricating.
Where can I get pats for an old CL-2, like heat shield and metal eccentric bloc?
Hi Frank, thanks for sharing this information. Fantastic. Quick question - will the special tool to remove the check valve also work in a 242 lantern? Maybe there is another version of it for the narrower tube? Regardless, this is great stuff well put together. Thanks again!
Daniel yes the CV remover will fit a 242 lantern. The check valve ODs are the same and you can "upgrade" a 242 or early 242A to the safer new style.
Frank, I recently picked up an old lantern that has the big bell air vent on it that was apart and it was broken in 2 pieces but I looked really hard and couldn't find the model of it but went to Old Coleman parts and ordered another one for it but it looked smaller than the one that was on it. Anyways I figured your the best go-to guy on what the model number would be. Also when I was trying to clean the bottom of the font I noticed an old familiar smell coming from it which smelled strongly of that old regular gas the leaded kind and I saw 2 numbers on the bottom of the font which was 8 on one side then 6 on the other but not like 86 though because the two numbers were too far apart could you guess for me what that would mean? I was looking for the age tbh but since it smelled so strongly of fuel I put it outside for the time being and will drain it tomorrow cause it's too cold for me to get out and drain it properly at the moment. Thanks for all the instructional videos that you do I've learned a lot from you and also wondered where could I find that apron you're wearing because I went to your website when I went to sales it showed Be right back.
Coleman just sends you a new unit
?
Whoever designed this type of lamp was a genius !!!!!! what year were these invented or marketed 1800's ?
You can thank William Coleman for this technology.
A very important note about health. Coleman and most western manufacturers used thorium in mantles until the mid 1990s. So if you have an old lantern that's been stored for decades, or are disassembling any one that has dust in it, you should clean it outside and wear a mask. Thorium dust is not too harmful outside the body but if you inhale or ingest particles they are a long term cancer risk when trapped in your bodily tissues. Thorium decays incredibly slowly so you don't want that dust accumulating and kicking up every time you sweep the floor. It's not the kind of thing that'll make you suddenly drop dead but lung or liver cancer is no joke. This is VERY important if you have kids around. Just a good idea to be as safe as possible.
4:20 good advice there after
I've got a 220f and the burners are loose on the burner tube to where I can move the burners left and right on the tube.
Outstanding tutorial, sir! I have a 1978 220J. It pumps up fine, holding pressure fine as well. The original gasket is oiled up and not rotted out. I turn the knob a quarter turn and the fuel is coming out very good too. I can light it and it runs great for about 15 seconds and then the flame dies down and then goes out. Any ideas on what the issue is?
I’d say the generator isn’t properly operating.
I just stumbled on a 10-52 220E. Is there anything special about this model? I also found one that has THE COLEMAN CO. INC. WICHITA KANSAS U.S.A. 9 80. But I cant seem to find its model? And tips on that would be great thanks buddy.
Well idk about having an older unit but I have duel fuel 700 and it's screw that holds the lid on was impressed into the silver thingy and it just sitting there I can lift it up and down but it's not possible to put the lid on with it to far down were the threads won't reach coleman let me keep the old one that is still in the box so I'm wondering can I some how fix this issue can the screw be replaced that holds the top on I can't just let it sit here with no purpose I must give it life any help is much appreciated
Frank-a crow's foot wrench may be useful for you to remove those recessed nuts that you can't hit straight with a normal wrench.
If I want to send in my Colman lantern in to get cleaned and new valves who could I send it to.
Hi Frank I inherited 3 228E Lanterns when my father passed away, and I'm a little discouraged about being able to get parts. For example: the check valve. Where can I buy one? Is there a new model number that covers this?
Fantastic video by the way, and you do a great job explaining the procedures. Thank You.
Have you looked on oldcolemanparts.com?
I have a 1993 Coleman 226-700, it needs a new fuel tube and fuel control rod, can this be repaired?
Would the same process work with a 228d?
What kind of oil is best for the pump ?
Hey i need help i cant get the tip cleaner assembly off with the half inch wrench its so tight what else can i do
Hi, I'm Arr, Thanks for the very helpful clip which I am a big fan look through this channel and also the webpage. May I ask? why the cap that has a hole is dangerous to use? It's easy to leaking? Thank you so much for your VDO.
Hello Arr! No, the cap with a hole will not leak any more than a new replacement will. The problem is if you try to remove it with pressure in the lamp or stove, it can spray a stream of vapor and/or liquid fuel in the direction the hole is pointing and ignite. Especially if the person touching the stove or lantern is not familiar with common safety practices.
Frank, I have an '81 220K, and Coleman apparently changed it a bit from yours. There is only a single nut for the pricker lever. Removing that nut then allows some sort of brass retainer to come out, but the lever itself just does not want to come out. Also, the frame is held on with a little 'C' clip under the 9/16" nut. Your thoughts ?
That is all correct--lanterns after the 220F/228F were a bit different. I will make a future video on that...
Are all of the hoods ceramic? Mine has rust on it.