*Dealer Wants to Charge $900* BMW E70 X5 Rear Brake Replacement Complete
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Complete walkthrough for a rear brake replacement on a 2012 BMW E70 X5 xDrive35i
Tool list:
Jack
Jack stands
Catch basin
Towels
Light
Brake Cleaner
Rubber mallet
Grease
Plain tip screwdriver large
Plain tip screwdriver small
14mm 6pt / E18 socket
Pry tool
6mm Allen socket
7mm Allen socket
8mm 1/4 drive socket / ratchet
Wire brush
Safety glasses
Channel locks
17mm socket 1/2" drive
Impact wrench
Torque wrench
8mm socket
Parts Link:
Rear Brake Kit - www.fcpeuro.co...
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#e70 #rear #brakesystems
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BradleysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BradleysGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BradleysGarage.
I did my E70 brakes last week. You should mention the master cylinder, brake fluid can overflow and spill on the paint. Your camera work is really good, thanks.
Thanks for the comments Bradley. Spillage should only occur if you have "Topped Off" your reservoir in between brake pad changes. If no fluid was added then the reduction in pad material should offset the fluid amount and therefore theoretically shouldn't overflow. But if you do get a little spillage the great news is that brake fluid is easily neutralized by water so it can be washed off very quickly and easily and leave no residue.
Good luck on your project, Cheers!
I have been doing my own brake work for the last 50 years. Paying attention to the master cylinder fluid level would be a useful addition to your video. No way to know if the level has been topped off unless you check it. Keep up the good work.
@@bradleycrowell9578 You are absolutely correct, I will make sure we mention this detail for future brake related videos. Thanks again for the feedback, Cheers!
Is there an issue with having an electronic handbrake on the rear wheels, specifically on X5 E70 2013 model? I've seen somewhere that has been pointed out as it adds a little more complexity to removing the rear calipers/pads etc and then renewing.
Hey Aleem, there will not be any issues swapping the pads out on cars with the electronic e-brake setup. The only difference is the way the cable is pulled, either manually or via an electronic solenoid. Just make sure the brake is off before you start working on the brakes 😁
The procedure for doing the brakes will be the same. Good luck on your project, Cheers!
Thank you for creating such an informative and high-quality video on BMW rear brake installation - it's one of the best I've seen. I would like to suggest a small enhancement for completeness: including the torque values for the screws would be incredibly helpful. This additional information would further enhance the video's usefulness for viewers. Thanks again for your excellent work!
Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed the video. We will try to include all the torque values in our future videos. Appreciate the feedback and the Sub. Cheers!
Thank you for this video! I will give it a try later in the summer.
Glad we can give you some motivation, good luck with the repair. Cheers
You know dealership is a crooks same as my x6M they want over $2000 for it but I search UA-cam learn how to do it myself event though not too many pei peoples own bmw x6M 2014 I have it done save a lot is money
Great video
Thanks for the kind words 👍
Excellent diy
Thanks again Mohammad, glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage saw your excellent gunk factory @Kia video. my question is-what is your take on it- My X5 2011 N55 ,3.5 petrol, bought used last year currently at 168,000 kms. I have done 4 oil changes with synthetic , and keep OCI @ 7,000 kms. Is it safe to do a flush with seafoam or LM or similar product.? or some say it will do more damage than good. thanks what is your say .? this is long question ...
Boy am I glad that we have UA-cam now a day it is so useful dealership want to do both of my brakes for over $2000 I did it myself only cost a few hundred yeah x6M bmw
That's great to hear, congrats on getting it done yourself. Appreciate the positive feedback 👍
Cheers!
you said it will take about an hour. it only took you 14 mins. 👍
The beauty of editing, gotta love UA-cam 😁
The brake light is still on in the cluster. How do I clear the code?
Thanks for the question, be sure to replace the brake pad wear sensor before the reset. Apologies we did not include this step in our video. Since our wear indicator was not touching it did not trigger the warning light.
Here is the reset procedure - ua-cam.com/video/sXOVyky0lFw/v-deo.html
Cheers!
With regards to starting the job, the bmw x5 has an electronic park brake do you have to put the car into a service mode for the brakes so it releases the park brake?
Thanks for the question Joel. On this model 2007-2013 it has an electronic brake that still utilizes the old style drum brake setup inside the rotor. The same way it has been done for decades with an actual handle e-brake. You only need to make sure the e-brake is not on before starting the repair on these models.
The newer BMW models use an electronic motor on the Caliper itself to act as the e-brake. This style requires you to pull off that motor in order to wind back the mechanism in order to push the piston back.
Hope this helps answer your question, good luck on your BMW project.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks buddy I’ve gotta do the brakes on mine this afternoon👌🏻
Nice vid. Wow, $900? I put new pads on the rear of my E70 yesterday. $50 for the pads & about 1.5hrs of my time (with 60-70% of that time getting garage ready, taking tires off, putting tools away after etc).
Thanks for sharing. The dealership is a complete rip-off, so never go there. Hopefully the video helps you guys out and get it done yourself. Cheers
Hi! Thank you for your video. For the rear brakes, should the emergency electronic brakes are engaged or disengaged? Does it matter?
Hey Robert, yes you will need to make sure the electronic parking brake is OFF before you will be able to remove everything. Just be sure to have the front wheels chalked and you will be good.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarageThanks so much! I was having a hell of a time removing the rear driver side rotor and couldn’t figure out why, even hitting it with a hammer and rubber mallet multiple times.
@@RobertHa81 YOU NEED ISTA D for that , dont do it by hand you will brake the motor inside!
Thanks for the video. Do you need to release the parking brake before removing the rotor?
Hey Leon, yes you will need to release the parking brake before removing the rotor. Otherwise those pads will be pressing on the inside of the rotor, preventing it from coming off. Good luck on your projects!
@bradleysgarage how do you release the parking brake?
Great video! My dealership was also going to charge me over $900 for new rear brakes and rotors. I saved more than half that amount doing it myself by just investing in a couple of hours on my time. I did almost everything like you did, but I did not grease the caliper guide pins and I did not put anti-seize on the lugs.
Congrats on saving over $700 by doing it yourself.
I always use anti seize on the lugs, just a habit I picked up from my pops when was young. The guide pins getting lubed just ensures that you get good caliper slide operation and even pad wear.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Cheers!
It will squeak later on cause mine did that
My understanding is that putting anti-seize on the lug nuts changes the actual torque to meet the specified torque. You’ve essentially reduced the friction and therefore your torque reading changes too. If the manufacturer doesn’t specify anti-seize during assembly then don’t put it on the bolt since the torque specified is for a non-anti-seized situations.
@@iansoutar3751 Thanks for the reply Ian. There are a wide variety of opinions of this topic, so you can easily go down a rabbit hole. Some guys reduce the value by 10-15% but I just go by the product manufacturer recommendations. They specifically say - "Reassemble parts using normal torque values."
I have been using anti seize for lug nuts, exhaust manifolds and any other potentially corrosive area for many decades now and never had a bolt seize on me, nor had any issues with them being too tight.
All it will take is one stuck lug nut or exhaust flange nut and you will wish you had used an anti-seize product on that application, regardless if the car calls for it or not.
Here is the TDS for the Permatex lubricant - www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/tech_docs/tds/80078.pdf
Cheers!
Smooth narration and outstanding camera work, brother. Yu be da man. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words, appreciate the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out. Cheers!
All good, brother. Will be checking your site frequently. @@BradleysGarage
How did you release Electric park brake to remove the disk?
Just make sure you release the emergency brake switch in the center console BEFORE you try to remove the rear rotors, otherwise they will be stuck on. If for some reason, your electronic switch is not working, you can release it manually here - ua-cam.com/video/6LLq2oB2Ovo/v-deo.html
Good luck with your project.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks a lot.
I want to do my 2008 4.8 E70 X5 for a while now, this video will help me a lot. Thanks
Glad the video will help you out. We will be posting a HPFP (High pressure fuel pump) replacement this week. Cheers 😎
It feels great to do it yourself you take your time I did mine wonderful feeling I had after that why pay dealership
What repair manual do you use??
Back in my younger days I used both the Chilton and Haynes repair manuals. I think now, both of them can be purchased and viewed online.
Since I have been working on stuff for more than 30 years, I don't normally need any manuals for all the routine stuff. But for all any major repairs I reference those manuals or like all of us, find some good content here and get out there and try to tackle it.
Once you've done dozens of rear disc brake jobs, they all have their similarities so it's not too much to figure it out.
Good luck with your projects.
Cheers!
@@BradleysGarage thanks from the information