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BMW X5 $13 Front Brake Pad Replacement And Service Also Fixing Seized On Wheels
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- Опубліковано 21 лют 2017
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BMW X5 Front Brakes Replacement And Service Also Fixing Seized On Wheels,
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Good video! You can leave the old inner pad on and use that to compress the piston back. That saves you a bit of time winding the clamp all the way into the piston and will aid in being able to tell when it's fully seated again. Sometimes I do this with the caliper still on, similar to how you mentioned doing that with the pry bar.
Good vid......I would be careful with painting the rotor hold down screw. The paint can be like super glue. When it comes time to change the rotors the allen hole will get rounded out and you end up using the grinder to cut the head off and vice grips to remove the rest after the rotor comes off. Hopefully it won't be rusted in there. I spent an hour one time because of this getting one rotor off. I always use anti-seize on on those screws now
I bought complete rear struts from them for my 02 mountaineer, they were called struttek and there are a lot of naysayers about it. Guess what it's been there in my truck for 70k+ miles without any issues. I think I paid $70 for the pair (free shipping too and no tax) It's a completely different story with the front hubs when I ordered them, they shipped it without any protection and it arrived with the ABS wires smashed, got refunded and they didn't even bother to have it returned back. I think they are fine with stuff that is not that fragile, it might last or not depending on how you use it on your car. The car/truck is just old enough (or not worth enough) to spend OEM parts on it.
In most cases you can go to ebay to get the same brand at a lower price compared to recommended bmw online parts store. For example I could get a set of Corteco engine mounts for $102 on ebay but FCP Euro and Amazon sells it for $130. Same thing with the oil level sensor, you can get the same branded part cheaper online.
They don't have these pad's on ebay in 2021. Do you recommend a good alternative? BMW 2004 X5 e53... Thanks.
Do you have a link for these pads?
Hey Nathan. On my 2002 E53 the brakes are surging. The last time I did my brakes I replaced all the pads and the rotors (Meyle). It really doesn't seem like its been that long ago that I did all of them. I'm thinking about taking the old rotors for the front and having them turned then switching them out with the present front ones. I'll check the front pads for wear and if they are low I'll replace them with the Prime Choice you suggested above since I'm getting alot of brake dust on my rims. I'm not sure if I'm going to do the rears at all since the rears don't brake as much as the fronts. Bad idea? Thoughts?
I was wondering what you think about cheap eBay O2 sensors and wheel speed sensors for e53 x5 good bad or get ones from o Riley's for 70 bucks
Hi everyone, what size Allen wrench is that? I seem to have everyone but that one.
Great video as always. I just replaced my rear breaks and afterwards my abs, airbag, and traction cluster in the dash came on. I did not replace the sensor and put the old one back on. It doesn't say anything on the obc though. Do I need to rebuild my abs module, put on a new sensor, or something else?
If you are going t keep that car invest in a $40 creator c310 scanner off eBay that will read and reset abs srs and engine codes, if your car is pre 2001 get the round adapter to read these codes
Oh man, the way we do brakes at the dealer is totally different.
1. No lubricant on the pins.
2. Contact points on the anchor must have brake grease (cheap as chips at the dealer, $2 a packet, 1-4 needed), grease on the pads.
3. Brake clean the piston before pushing it back and the anchor (no wirebrushes allowed, anti-corrosion coating).
4. New disks on each pad change.
Corrosion isn't a big problem, just wack the tyre with a big hammer.
Geniune pads do not have a problem for fitment, goes on with ease.
You can brush the hub and put some brake grease on it.
Devin Smith what is the going rate at the stealership for front e53 brakes with rotors? $1k or more?
Depends on the location labour hour rate. Standard is 30 minutes per axle, 5 minutes extra for rotors. Parts can cost quite a bit. Stealership? You mean a business that has up to 100 mouths to feed? Only profit margins comes with sale of accessaries, labour hours and parts. New car sale only margin is very low.
I can tell you that the time allocated is not enough as at a dealer there is a tonne of overhead and the tech will not get enough time to do the brakes (Parts allcation + parts quotes + labour charges + calls to customer). That time alone can take up to 4 hours in some cases.
Yes on certain parts of the world, you could be looking at $1000 per axle.
There is however a bit of a benefit, quality is guarenteed and there is no brake shudder and next to non-existent brake squeal.
You have to look at it this way, we have to make money or there will not be BMW's sold, period. Each month the target is in millions, in the service department alone.
Allot of people hate dealers, but there are situations when independent workshops cannot perform the repair properly. Especially when the control units have their own programming and is VIN specific.
In a matter of fact, allot of the independent repairer's and DIYérs are not performing the repair correctly even on the most basic jobs. As considered by BMW AG repair methods (Which is technically a secret, but I want you guys to do it properly for safety's sake).
Devin Smith I think the dealer is a great place to get cars fixed under warranty , other than that I'm sorry but a older car has no business there, how a person does a job is debatable, I'm sure I cajoled stand over your shoulder and criticize every move and find you doing stuff incorrectly on the daily basis, but in this case fixing cars for pennies with parts that in your opinion are not good enough quality I don't think is a bad thing, I use to work a a Toyota parts manufacturer so I know what dealer parts mark up is just on parts alone, I'm not against someone making money but at some point there has to be a stopping point, just like going to the dr. Office, price gouging in that manner cannot be justified in any case, said n the case of this video how can you charge someone $1000 plus for front brakes on a car that's worth $2500, we both know if any BMW comes in it needs at minimum 10 or more small things fixed, you guys just hand he a $7k bill and expect that to work out? I'm not trying to attack you but hopefully you understand why 90% of BMW owners are not taking their cars to the dealer after it's out of warranty, hopefully you can understand my point.
I can tell you Nathan, car maker's don't manufacturer their own parts. The only work done is the chassis, painting, assembly and casting engines. All the rest of the parts are outsourced to be as cheap as possible in volume orders. This is why all cars apart from Toyota (They essentially have some of their manufacturer's bought out) have a lesser quality to an extent as the manufacturer has no control over the quality.
Depending on the parts, markup can be as high as 50% (Batteries) and the guys that work there can buy the part themselves for 10% markup. But the reason why we all drive BMW's is that their technology is far more refined. Yes, older cars that only work out to a few thousand dollars might not be ideal to bring to the dealer. Dealer is also good if they mess up, the screwup costs are covered by the dealer, so the work is warrantied.
New car owners will still take their cars to dealers and guys that can afford it. We still see E31's, E12's on rare occasions, E30's, E38's. I can tell you, allot of people will still be bringing certain cars back to the dealer. If you work on a E31, you will end up spewing as they are one of the nastiest cars to work on (car that age has problems no other cars have and is specific to that model), we end up giving those cars to guys that were working in the brand for more than 20 years, really old geezers.
Aftermarket parts can be quite nasty.
According to a friend that works at Merc, the parts markup is even greater than our BM's.
The stuff I mentioned, you probably already know.
Keep up the good work.
I like this this get it done approach. Yes, in a perfect world you could do it with all the finer points checked off, but there is something cool about the bare bones shade tree mechanic style that makes more common sense sometimes. Great points on cleaning piston before pushing it in and what not. That never occured to me.
Righty tighty lefty loosey bud .. that’s prob why you broke your socket lol ... I seen you tried hitting the wrench in the wrong direction you’re supposed to hit up when it’s in the back like that ... and they aren’t impact rated... I know this is two years later
Got a link of where you bought these $13 pads?
www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PREMIUM-COMPLETE-SET-OF-FRONT-CERAMIC-DISC-BRAKE-PADS-/400688375148?fits=Year%3A2001%7CMake%3ABMW%7CModel%3AX5&hash=item5d4ae3656c:g:B4oAAOSw6DtYVwzG&vxp=mtr
They are not on sale anymore so they are $17 now, that link is for e53 x5
Link?
Hey did u get your e brake retracted??
E Brake is for the rear and he is doing the front
Sometimes you just have to pad slap it.