I'm about to do the coil pack spark plug change on a 1999 5.4 Expedition. I've watch about ten videos on youtube on how to. I found your video to be the best. A few tips from other videos to go along with your video should make a tough job a bit easier.
***** thanks again followed your method of changing plugs then do the coils from back to front worked superb. The only real issue I ran into was on #4 had a bit of a time getting the extension with plug socket out, the rubber in the socket held onto the plug, had to use long needle nose pliers to retrieve the short locking extension and socket. Not much room back there on #4.
For some simple reason, beyond my knowledge, I removed the injectors and the fuel rails when I tried this. This looks like a much better way to attempt this. My truck has missed for over 5 years. Beyond annoying. But as it is written this is how it went. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for putting this video up. I have an 2003 F150 5.4L that is pretty similar Good tip on the back to front installation order. I also removed the PVC valve and pulled its hose to the side to give me more access to the #3 & #4 coil packs. Something you skipped over is to put dielectric grease inside the boot of the coil to help conductivity between the coil and the plug - this also helps seal the connection from moisture that might get into that deep well the plug sits in. Otherwise - good video!
About to do this on my 01 Expedition, I noticed to my relief that you don't have to remove the fuel injection rail to get to them,thanks for the great tips!
Great video.. I would however recommend the Di-Electric Grease put on the end of the spark plug top or on the Coil boot so the top of the plug gets a complete connection with the coil inside the boot. That's highly recommended by Ford also.
With regards to removing the spark plugs. Drive your car or truck until it reaches the normal temp. Working with the heat sucks. However the engine heat wil make the spark plug removal much easier. i.e helps reeduces the risk of breaking the spark plug.
Thanks for this video! Never really worked on my vehicle (more of a tech guy w/ computers, network admin, etc), started having the same problem on my 2000 Expedition. Heard it was difficult to change the plugs from some of my mechanic friends.... this doesn't look as bad as I thought it might be.... will try my luck at changing everything out this week. Thanks again! Liked and subbed.
Well sir the reason it looks easy is because he didn't show you any of the work I have a 98 E350 with a five four and trust me it is extremely difficult very narrow places to work unless you have a child's hand size nearly impossible to get your hand in these places it can be done but I myself am not real mechanic I'm a carpenter but I work on my own vehicles due to necessity of cost I'm sure you can do it but it'll probably take you four to five hours would be a reasonable time good luck
For those of you afraid of breaking spark plugs. I normally recommend using sea foam for about a month before changing the spark plugs. We have had a lot of success with this. Must break up the carbon that forms on the plug. Good luck all.
@@jeffhaley1388 it’s an additive you can add to gas or suck right in a vaccume line to help break up carbon and other shit. You can use it on just about anything.
I liked the video. Been wondering how to tell "which one is the bad one". If Ford dealer is going to charge me $200 to find and replace just one... I will change all eight coils + plugs for same $$$. Video makes it seem like do-able in my garage. Thanks.
The new recommended spark plug installation on the 5.4, as recommended by Ford, is 28 ft/lbs with no anti-seize. This will prevent any blow outs, and since the Motorcraft plugs are nickel plated anyways, anti-seize is unnecessary. These motors are picky, only Motorcraft plugs should be used.
did you not remove the fuel rails? that's the only thing keeping me from doing this myself even with some mechanic background, but if it's not necessary I may go for it.
What size are the tools that you used to get the coils out. My 1999 f-150 5.4 has a fifth cylinder misfire and I need help on this. So im trying to get as much information as possible before starting.
Agree 100%!! On the Ford the clips are facing away so it would have been nice to see the “trick” on getting the wiring off the coils and the full removal of the coil
Hey there! I'm a carpenter, and far from a mechanic but finances dictate I try to fix my truck myself. I took the coils out to grease the boots with dielectric grease, reinserted them and now my truck won't start.It doesn't crank, it just makes a single "click" sound. accessories still work, and I made sure everything was reconnected. any ideas?
I always preach try the easiest fixes first. Honestly sounds like a low battery. I would try a jump start first. I also have a weird issue with my 01 F250 in which it doesn't always sense the truck is in park, giving me similar symptoms. Try turning the key on, take out of park to drive, then back up to park. Then try again. Let me know what you find out.
Not sure how you can tell when the coil is properly connected to the spark plug? There is no "click" when I push the boot in, and it's a bit spongy where the coil mount touches the intake manifold..
My problem was, where is the clip located so that I can disconnect the dam wire harness? The clip is located under the wire harness where one cannot see it. Your video does not show that.
The best info you gave was the reason for the order that you remove and install the coil packs and spark plugs. However, I watched the video to "see how it's done."
Sorry Randall, this video was one of our first how-to's for repair. I plan to remake on a new project soon, but until then, there are a few other good videos out there that fill in the gaps.
Our core channel (majority of other videos) is based around our race team which also doubles as our Christian outreach ministry. So for us, the Him is Christ being in the center of our life. We understand their are many out there who don't believe as us, so for them, they get to enjoy our videos and content. Just everyday guys trying to give back and share knowledge.
I didn't watch your vid long enough to hear you say "do the passenger side first" Oh GOD, that is a nightmare! I wish I did do that first. I had to stop this project and I'll work on the final 2 cylinders tomorrow. Why does this have to be such a pain?
I hear you. I got a 2002 expedition, 5.4. The right side is a pain. The clips were tight too and didn't want to let go of the ignition coils. I squeezed the bottom of them too. Didn't matter.
I have a Ford Expedition and I want to change out the ignition coils, but I don't know what ones are the best? There are yellow ones, red ones and black ones. Which ones are the best for my car, its a 2004 Ford Expedition 8 Cylinder 5.4 Liter Eddie Bauer Edition. I love this car and I want it to last forever. Help me out please? anyone?
When you need to replace the coils everyone's recommend put it the original one. Look on your local auto parts for them or search on eBay, I found mine for $67.23 plus free shipping set of 8.
I have one Triton 1997. It's I power on engine and accelerate it's like Parkinson car. We change the fuel filter, new change oil and the oil filter, see the pictures valve are some cosmetic dirt, but you please help me, we think are a coil.... That's are the problem? We hope so!!!!
If the coil is the issue, it should throw an error code. Many local part stores have code readers, I would highly recommend you take the vehicle to one and ask them to scan for error codes to help you find the issue.
So, I'm not a car expert, so let's get that out of the way. That being said, my 2001 f150 has 160k miles on it, and this has happened twice, once 4ish years ago and about an hour ago. If it's the coil, it will shudder at a certain speed as the cylinders become engaged. So on mine, it shuddered from 40 to 50 mph. Any lower and it was fine, any higher and it was fine, and in that 40-50 range, it would only shudder if I tried to maintain that speed. Accelerating through would be normal. Based on some other posts, 90% of all shuddering is those damn coils. It could be a wheel flat issue (I'm not sure what that means) and it could be water trapped that heats and cools that causes it (im not sure how), but my coils ( I guess, the guy also said spark plugs, but I thought it was all one thing) were the problem. obviously you can check the code, but the coils are the best place to start.
+Stephen Suttles thanks for answering my questions. Look we came to the mechanics and it's 2 damage coils.... The day after the Ford become to do the Parkinson theme again my husband change all those old coils and the problems resolve.
Juila Miller it's not a bad idea. It can help reduce corrosion and can help conductivity. However, in my opinion, you need to make sure to use a hearty amount or it will not be effective.
+Travis Efaw There are a lot of good videos on UA-cam on how to extract a broken bolt, I'd suggest you start there. If it was me, I'd probably use an extraction bit just because I have had good results with them. Worst case, you drill it out and re-tap the threads. But I would try some other techniques first. Just be careful since the intake is plastic and can be easy to crack or melt thru if you're not careful.
how did the accel super coil turn out? read some reviews that they were junk, so trying to find out because I found some others that I could get for way less or should I go OEM? Also, we just had the spark plus changed out, do we need to reset the gap on them? or should they be fine? Thanks in advance!
+Dana Arrieta If the plugs have been recently changed, then they should be fine. No reason to make more work for an already involved process. As far as the super coils, I have been very happy with them. All products have some negative reviews, I felt these offered an improvement over OEM, and I bought on sale when they were cheaper than OEM. However, I will say that OEM Motorcraft coils will be the safest option if you have reserve, especially before an off brand. But as always, only one way to find out with the off brands, but usually you get what you pay for. Good luck on your project!
There is a little plastic tab on the connector. You pry that away from the coil with a screw driver or by hand, being careful not to snap it. Pull the plug out at the same time you are prying. Here's a picture of connector, the "tonque" shape piece is what you need to pry away. You pull the tonque piece out and over top of a tab on the coil itself. Let me know if this was not clear. image.pushauction.com/0/0/ea64f6f9-2179-44a1-a76c-bdd405ee2ae4/f9759307-b2dd-400e-8e72-3f879afbccf3.jpg
rustycarr On this motor I saw a significant difference. It did take the computer some drive time to fully get the motor tuned and adjusted to the new parts performance, but very happy with the results. On other motors improvement was more seen just under load, when all 8 cylinders are needed.
I like UA-cam videos because they show how things are done. Not this video - just shows the engine and him holding the parts before/after he swaps them out and tells you what he's gonna/has done. Hello? Why did I just waste my time here.
cuskit When I filmed the video, I did film doing the work also. But when going through it, you pretty much only saw my hands moving because the engine compartment was so tight. So no value add in my opinion from what I showed which focused more on the why and not just how. Sorry it didn't give you the help you need, there are plenty of other videos out there that may.
***** Hey, my apologies! I realize now watching your video again you pretty much cover everything anyway. And yes - I can appreciate how "tight" everything is in these engine compartments anymore. So, forget my rude comment - next time I'll think before typing! Watched some of your other videos and man, you are doing a great job! You've got a solid subscriber now! :-)
Maybe in here from another viewer spray from above is a waste lube never gets below threads run carbon cleaner like he says remove warm Replacement You want copper coat if possible never seize is OK but the conductivity of CC is desired I apologize in advance You re not coating the threads coat the long tip w/ thin coat carbon bonds the tip to the "cylinder" and does not turn with the plug breaks off get extraction tool and always remain calm
I replaced number one coil in about 20 minutes miss fire is gone. Wondering if driving around with a miss fire will gas wash combustion chamber and contaminate engine oil. Maybe another oil change is good insurance?
Does anybody know of the same kind of a video where somebody is an advertising and explaining all the stuff that's not necessary for me 14 different products that you should buy
I believe the bolts that hold the coil packs down require a 7mm socket to remove, so its most likely an M4, but don't quote me on that. Best would be to take one that you know is good to hardware store and buy a replacement that matches the threads.
ok thank you, i just got this truck and i was surprised that only the metric fit, so i was asking to confirm that it was actually a 7mm, wow!!! + 1 like
+NoVaKane The plug to the coils can be very tight, which is good for protecting against moisture but hard to take apart. Best thing I can suggest is to make sure the small tab on the plug is firmly pulled back (careful, as too much pull may cause it to break) and then wiggle side-to-side and rock up and down gently as you pull. Make sure to pull on plug itself and not the wires. This is just rule of thumb to remove a tough connector, please let me know if you have troubles or I did not fully understand your issue. Sometimes some light "leverage" from a screw driver can help separate as well, but that is last resort.
+NoVaKane The plug looks like this g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1XLjdJXXXXXb1XpXXq6xXFXXX8/30-Kit-Car-Ignition-font-b-Coil-b-font-font-b-Connector-b-font-Plug-case.jpg. The tab will be on the bottom side of the coil connector, side facing the engine. Reach your finger to bottom side of the connector, you should feel tab. Pry on tab, and it should come apart.
+NoVaKane im sorryy for my miss spelling but i was saying how i took video to see the underside of the plug to look for a tab and it was smooth. its the number 4 coil too. one in the way back. never done this either so im worried im missing something or im not yanking om the plug hard enough. don't want to break anything.
Sorry, was our first how-to and sadly did not do a good job based on the views it has received. Our new vids are much better. Good luck with your repair!
Appreciate the feedback John. At the time this video was made, we really didn't do how-to videos. We have greatly improved in our newer videos and this was a learning experience, but I unfortunately talked through the process when all people care about is watching the how. Got it, my bad.
Here you go.. you ask what time it is and you get a blueprint on how to build a clock. Here is the coil pack here is how you take it out and here is how you put them back. Is that too difficult to communicate?UA-cam Hollywood hero.
Whatever you do, don't use AC Delco sparkplugs. I've been driving F-150s for very long time and AC Delco's are a GM product. Stick with Motorcraft plugs.
Yeah the reason why you're watching his show is it see if he can show you something and how maybe you don't break it and stairs it's quickly that's how you do it
Shops all are Bullshit!! I got quoted 900$ to change my spark plugs on my 04 FX4 ( their excuse, their long and prone to break) Buddy cahnged them in an hour and half, deep socket and impact. So easy. Cost 360$ total parts and labour.
+Timmie Barber Sorry you feel that way. There are many other videos up now that also show how to do this. I chose to take a different angle which shows more on the "why" than the others out there. Best of luck with your repair.
First of all, I love the "All4HimRacing" name. That being said, please change the "How" to "Why" in this video. I didn't have time to understand "why", I just needed to know "how". I can see you're very knowledgeable and wish I knew a tenth of what you know but I wanted you to show me.
+rikenheimer Exactly....a How To sort of implies showing someone HOW not explaining WHY. We already know why, our engine is not running well and the code says misfiring cylinder.
I'm about to do the coil pack spark plug change on a 1999 5.4 Expedition. I've watch about ten videos on youtube on how to. I found your video to be the best. A few tips from other videos to go along with your video should make a tough job a bit easier.
David Carlson Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your project!
***** thanks again followed your method of changing plugs then do the coils from back to front worked superb. The only real issue I ran into was on #4 had a bit of a time getting the extension with plug socket out, the rubber in the socket held onto the plug, had to use long needle nose pliers to retrieve the short locking extension and socket. Not much room back there on #4.
@@davidcarlson6885 I ended up loosening the fuel injector rail. I didn't think it was possible to do it without doing that first.
For some simple reason, beyond my knowledge, I removed the injectors and the fuel rails when I tried this. This looks like a much better way to attempt this. My truck has missed for over 5 years. Beyond annoying. But as it is written this is how it went. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for putting this video up. I have an 2003 F150 5.4L that is pretty similar Good tip on the back to front installation order. I also removed the PVC valve and pulled its hose to the side to give me more access to the #3 & #4 coil packs. Something you skipped over is to put dielectric grease inside the boot of the coil to help conductivity between the coil and the plug - this also helps seal the connection from moisture that might get into that deep well the plug sits in. Otherwise - good video!
About to do this on my 01 Expedition, I noticed to my relief that you don't have to remove the fuel injection rail to get to them,thanks for the great tips!
You're welcome! Good luck with your project
Great video.. I would however recommend the Di-Electric Grease put on the end of the spark plug top or on the Coil boot so the top of the plug gets a complete connection with the coil inside the boot. That's highly recommended by Ford also.
With regards to removing the spark plugs. Drive your car or truck until it reaches the normal temp. Working with the heat sucks. However the engine heat wil make the spark plug removal much easier. i.e helps reeduces the risk of breaking the spark plug.
Thanks for this video! Never really worked on my vehicle (more of a tech guy w/ computers, network admin, etc), started having the same problem on my 2000 Expedition. Heard it was difficult to change the plugs from some of my mechanic friends.... this doesn't look as bad as I thought it might be.... will try my luck at changing everything out this week. Thanks again!
Liked and subbed.
Well sir the reason it looks easy is because he didn't show you any of the work I have a 98 E350 with a five four and trust me it is extremely difficult very narrow places to work unless you have a child's hand size nearly impossible to get your hand in these places it can be done but I myself am not real mechanic I'm a carpenter but I work on my own vehicles due to necessity of cost I'm sure you can do it but it'll probably take you four to five hours would be a reasonable time good luck
For those of you afraid of breaking spark plugs. I normally recommend using sea foam for about a month before changing the spark plugs. We have had a lot of success with this. Must break up the carbon that forms on the plug. Good luck all.
Great suggestion!
Sea foam? Never heard of it. What is that?
@@jeffhaley1388 it’s an additive you can add to gas or suck right in a vaccume line to help break up carbon and other shit. You can use it on just about anything.
I liked the video. Been wondering how to tell "which one is the bad one". If Ford dealer is going to charge me $200 to find and replace just one... I will change all eight coils + plugs for same $$$. Video makes it seem like do-able in my garage. Thanks.
I think you did a great job. you gave a (how to) in common sense I think. I have a 97 F250 with the same setup👍
Great video. Going to do plugs and ignition coils on my 5.4l and needed the info. Thanks
The new recommended spark plug installation on the 5.4, as recommended by Ford, is 28 ft/lbs with no anti-seize. This will prevent any blow outs, and since the Motorcraft plugs are nickel plated anyways, anti-seize is unnecessary. These motors are picky, only Motorcraft plugs should be used.
did you not remove the fuel rails? that's the only thing keeping me from doing this myself even with some mechanic background, but if it's not necessary I may go for it.
+Killertomato84 I did not need to. It was tight at times, particularly on the drivers side. But I was able to work around them with some patience.
What size are the tools that you used to get the coils out. My 1999 f-150 5.4 has a fifth cylinder misfire and I need help on this. So im trying to get as much information as possible before starting.
daniel rodriguez I believe that the bolt that holds the coil down is a 7mm. But I will confirm.
Okay thank you. Great video. Very helpful. *****
Great info. Great work. Thorough and patient mechanic.
good video...but wanted to see the actual removal process of one, etc..
Agree 100%!! On the Ford the clips are facing away so it would have been nice to see the “trick” on getting the wiring off the coils and the full removal of the coil
Would've been nice if you showed the actual work itself.
I have to agree with you Ovniware33.
No freakin kiddin
Seriously. Lol trying to show a FRIEND in a different state, guess I'll just have to guide him on video chat. Thanks for showing us nothing.
WONDERFUL ENGINEER AND GREAT VIDEO IN SHOWING ME HOW TO REPLACE MY COIL PACKS---
I have a 1999 ford 250 5.4/ 6.8 engine which coil is #4 would it be the one 2nd from the last on passenger side? Closest the the cab?
#4 is the furthest back on the passenger side.
images.app.goo.gl/d22s4B8CH2ZYRD5y6
Hey there! I'm a carpenter, and far from a mechanic but finances dictate I try to fix my truck myself.
I took the coils out to grease the boots with dielectric grease, reinserted them and now my truck won't start.It doesn't crank, it just makes a single "click" sound. accessories still work, and I made sure everything was reconnected. any ideas?
I always preach try the easiest fixes first. Honestly sounds like a low battery. I would try a jump start first.
I also have a weird issue with my 01 F250 in which it doesn't always sense the truck is in park, giving me similar symptoms. Try turning the key on, take out of park to drive, then back up to park. Then try again. Let me know what you find out.
Another easy check is to double check your battery connections. A bad connection will cause something similar.
Dude loves to hear himself talk... Thanks for skipping the important part!
How did he change #7 ? It's easy to tell someone "just do it" , but how bout the tricky ones??
Not sure how you can tell when the coil is properly connected to the spark plug? There is no "click" when I push the boot in, and it's a bit spongy where the coil mount touches the intake manifold..
Great video buddy. one of the best repair videos I've ever seen. Not a whole lot of bullshiting and some good easy tips
Nothing was mentioned in the first part of your video about removing the fuel rail?
Correct, this repair is possible without removing the fuel rail.
My problem was, where is the clip located so that I can disconnect the dam wire harness? The clip is located under the wire harness where one cannot see it. Your video does not show that.
Hey, did you have to disconnect the battery before doing this ?
Never a bad idea when working under the hood
Glad I went with 5.3 chevy over the 5.4 ford from that period I was considering lol
Loved your video!! It helped me so much !!! Thank you !!!!!!!!
The best info you gave was the reason for the order that you remove and install the coil packs and spark plugs. However, I watched the video to "see how it's done."
Sorry Randall, this video was one of our first how-to's for repair. I plan to remake on a new project soon, but until then, there are a few other good videos out there that fill in the gaps.
That's OK. By the way, who's Him?
Our core channel (majority of other videos) is based around our race team which also doubles as our Christian outreach ministry. So for us, the Him is Christ being in the center of our life. We understand their are many out there who don't believe as us, so for them, they get to enjoy our videos and content. Just everyday guys trying to give back and share knowledge.
How do I install the coolant temperature sensor in my 1997 Ford Expedition
Actually it does matter what coil. Because offbrand ones throw weird codes I’ve experienced especially excell
Thanks for the video! G-d bless y'all!
What kind of tool did you use to take off ignition coil 7
Mini socket wrench
Make sure you have a 7mm flex-head socket before you start this.
So when did he replace the coils? Did I missed it? 👀
Do your engine have 2valves or 3 valves
ENGINE!!! Motors use a stored power source ie; Hydraulic, Pneumatic or electrical. An Engine converts a fuel source into usable energy!
Thanks Jim. Funny thing, I design electric motors for a living, but a childhood of people calling engines motors corrupted me.
I didn't watch your vid long enough to hear you say "do the passenger side first" Oh GOD, that is a nightmare! I wish I did do that first. I had to stop this project and I'll work on the final 2 cylinders tomorrow. Why does this have to be such a pain?
I hear you. I got a 2002 expedition, 5.4. The right side is a pain. The clips were tight too and didn't want to let go of the ignition coils. I squeezed the bottom of them too. Didn't matter.
I have a Ford Expedition and I want to change out the ignition coils, but I don't know what ones are the best? There are yellow ones, red ones and black ones. Which ones are the best for my car, its a 2004 Ford Expedition 8 Cylinder 5.4 Liter Eddie Bauer Edition. I love this car and I want it to last forever. Help me out please? anyone?
When you need to replace the coils everyone's recommend put it the original one. Look on your local auto parts for them or search on eBay, I found mine for $67.23 plus free shipping set of 8.
They're all the same. I Do this frequently. They all break.
Have you ever done a remake of this how to ?
Unfortunately have not had another in our shop.
I have one Triton 1997. It's I power on engine and accelerate it's like Parkinson car. We change the fuel filter, new change oil and the oil filter, see the pictures valve are some cosmetic dirt, but you please help me, we think are a coil.... That's are the problem? We hope so!!!!
If the coil is the issue, it should throw an error code. Many local part stores have code readers, I would highly recommend you take the vehicle to one and ask them to scan for error codes to help you find the issue.
So, I'm not a car expert, so let's get that out of the way.
That being said, my 2001 f150 has 160k miles on it, and this has happened twice, once 4ish years ago and about an hour ago. If it's the coil, it will shudder at a certain speed as the cylinders become engaged. So on mine, it shuddered from 40 to 50 mph. Any lower and it was fine, any higher and it was fine, and in that 40-50 range, it would only shudder if I tried to maintain that speed. Accelerating through would be normal.
Based on some other posts, 90% of all shuddering is those damn coils. It could be a wheel flat issue (I'm not sure what that means) and it could be water trapped that heats and cools that causes it (im not sure how), but my coils ( I guess, the guy also said spark plugs, but I thought it was all one thing) were the problem.
obviously you can check the code, but the coils are the best place to start.
+Stephen Suttles thanks for answering my questions. Look we came to the mechanics and it's 2 damage coils.... The day after the Ford become to do the Parkinson theme again my husband change all those old coils and the problems resolve.
What size socket for the stupid one bolt?
We know what cylinder is which but where are they numbered on the coil packs
The individual coil packs are not numbered, they are universal to be used on any cyclindar that needs one.
I can't get under the number seven how did you do that
Why does everyone in the Ford dealership recommend that you put dielectric grease ?
Juila Miller it's not a bad idea. It can help reduce corrosion and can help conductivity. However, in my opinion, you need to make sure to use a hearty amount or it will not be effective.
One of my coil bolt broke off flush on the intake. Any idea to get it out
+Travis Efaw There are a lot of good videos on UA-cam on how to extract a broken bolt, I'd suggest you start there. If it was me, I'd probably use an extraction bit just because I have had good results with them. Worst case, you drill it out and re-tap the threads. But I would try some other techniques first. Just be careful since the intake is plastic and can be easy to crack or melt thru if you're not careful.
what did u gap the plugs at??? I have to do the same Tommrow
The user manual for my F250 this motor is in states "(0.052-0.056 inch)" . O'reily and other auto part stores state 0.054 inch.
It would have been nice to see a complete removal and reinstall, regardless of time or tediousness .
This is a real good video
how did the accel super coil turn out? read some reviews that they were junk, so trying to find out because I found some others that I could get for way less or should I go OEM? Also, we just had the spark plus changed out, do we need to reset the gap on them? or should they be fine?
Thanks in advance!
+Dana Arrieta If the plugs have been recently changed, then they should be fine. No reason to make more work for an already involved process. As far as the super coils, I have been very happy with them. All products have some negative reviews, I felt these offered an improvement over OEM, and I bought on sale when they were cheaper than OEM. However, I will say that OEM Motorcraft coils will be the safest option if you have reserve, especially before an off brand. But as always, only one way to find out with the off brands, but usually you get what you pay for. Good luck on your project!
How do you unsnap the Coil Electrical connection? What clicks it in place on the coil? / Dan
There is a little plastic tab on the connector. You pry that away from the coil with a screw driver or by hand, being careful not to snap it. Pull the plug out at the same time you are prying. Here's a picture of connector, the "tonque" shape piece is what you need to pry away. You pull the tonque piece out and over top of a tab on the coil itself. Let me know if this was not clear. image.pushauction.com/0/0/ea64f6f9-2179-44a1-a76c-bdd405ee2ae4/f9759307-b2dd-400e-8e72-3f879afbccf3.jpg
good vid .... damn fords, I know, I have 3 haha
how are those accel holding up?
They are holding up great! been very happy with them.
Do you have to remove the fuel line?
No, if you take extra care it can be done with the fuel line in place.
How can you make a how to video without showing how to do anything
How do you remove the fuel rail from EACH injector??
Don't for this project.
Thanks for that, very helpful
Did it run better?
rustycarr On this motor I saw a significant difference. It did take the computer some drive time to fully get the motor tuned and adjusted to the new parts performance, but very happy with the results. On other motors improvement was more seen just under load, when all 8 cylinders are needed.
Just had #8 cyl. coil replaced at a Ford dealership. $391. 1999 E350 van.
Ive heard horror stories from these engines blowing the back plugs out.
I like UA-cam videos because they show how things are done. Not this video - just shows the engine and him holding the parts before/after he swaps them out and tells you what he's gonna/has done. Hello? Why did I just waste my time here.
cuskit When I filmed the video, I did film doing the work also. But when going through it, you pretty much only saw my hands moving because the engine compartment was so tight. So no value add in my opinion from what I showed which focused more on the why and not just how. Sorry it didn't give you the help you need, there are plenty of other videos out there that may.
***** Hey, my apologies! I realize now watching your video again you pretty much cover everything anyway. And yes - I can appreciate how "tight" everything is in these engine compartments anymore. So, forget my rude comment - next time I'll think before typing! Watched some of your other videos and man, you are doing a great job! You've got a solid subscriber now! :-)
cuskit Thanks man, and no biggy! If you run to any issues with your coil change, feel free to drop me a line if I can help further.
my check moniter said igniton coil b secod primery circuit what does that mean
Confirms that you have a bad coil in the circuit. Any code numbers shown?
great video! but wrong coils and wrong plugs!!
As with all this stuff, use what you have had good experience with. Thanks for the feedback.
Maybe in here from another viewer spray from above is a waste lube never gets below threads run carbon cleaner like he says remove warm
Replacement
You want copper coat if possible never seize is OK but the conductivity of CC is desired
I apologize in advance
You re not coating the threads coat the long tip w/ thin coat
carbon bonds the tip to the "cylinder"
and does not turn with the plug breaks off get extraction tool and always remain calm
On the driver side how you change the coil under the rail fuel line is so close to the coil
With a mini socket wrench. Yes, it is tight, but can be done without removal of the fuel line.
One similar to this amzn.to/2wuIXhH
I replaced number one coil in about 20 minutes miss fire is gone. Wondering if driving around with a miss fire will gas wash combustion chamber and contaminate engine oil. Maybe another oil change is good insurance?
***** Never a bad idea. Not sure if you have to do it right away, but I definitely would before normal service would recommend.
Passenger side is always the hardest side
Does anybody know of the same kind of a video where somebody is an advertising and explaining all the stuff that's not necessary for me 14 different products that you should buy
Why didn’t you show how you get to the back cylinders to replace these parts?
Tried to film and all you could see was my arms in front of camera. Sorry I did not
anti seeds prevent misfires from growing
I WANT TO KNOW THE BOLT SIZE AND OR SCREW PATTER SIZES!
Taylor Webb I'll do my best to help. Which screws are you referring?
what are the bolt sized on the coil packs? sorry for caps, just wanted to be noticed :)
I believe the bolts that hold the coil packs down require a 7mm socket to remove, so its most likely an M4, but don't quote me on that. Best would be to take one that you know is good to hardware store and buy a replacement that matches the threads.
ok thank you, i just got this truck and i was surprised that only the metric fit, so i was asking to confirm that it was actually a 7mm, wow!!! + 1 like
What the bolt size for the coil?
Been a little while since I worked on this but believe 7mm
No real info. If you are looking for the socket size you need, as I am, it ain't here.
Thanks for a good video
clicked on the video was hoping you would show changing the drive side.
It would have been nice to mention what size socket you need to remove the coil. Also, too much talking and no instruction in actually do the job.
Tnks 4 the video...
cant even replace my coil ignition cause the plug the ius attached to it aint unattaching. aby tips. mayby i dont know how to undo em?
+NoVaKane The plug to the coils can be very tight, which is good for protecting against moisture but hard to take apart. Best thing I can suggest is to make sure the small tab on the plug is firmly pulled back (careful, as too much pull may cause it to break) and then wiggle side-to-side and rock up and down gently as you pull. Make sure to pull on plug itself and not the wires. This is just rule of thumb to remove a tough connector, please let me know if you have troubles or I did not fully understand your issue. Sometimes some light "leverage" from a screw driver can help separate as well, but that is last resort.
+All4HimRacingVideos i cant find a tab. it must be blended in or something im not sure what i should be looking for
+NoVaKane The plug looks like this g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1XLjdJXXXXXb1XpXXq6xXFXXX8/30-Kit-Car-Ignition-font-b-Coil-b-font-font-b-Connector-b-font-Plug-case.jpg. The tab will be on the bottom side of the coil connector, side facing the engine. Reach your finger to bottom side of the connector, you should feel tab. Pry on tab, and it should come apart.
+All4HimRacingVideos its weird i too video abd mine Ius smooth on the underside. ford f150 2003 5.4 triton automatic.
+NoVaKane im sorryy for my miss spelling but i was saying how i took video to see the underside of the plug to look for a tab and it was smooth. its the number 4 coil too. one in the way back. never done this either so im worried im missing something or im not yanking om the plug hard enough. don't want to break anything.
Thank you sir
I was hoping to actually watch you take the COP off. But I think I have the basic idea.
Sorry, was our first how-to and sadly did not do a good job based on the views it has received. Our new vids are much better. Good luck with your repair!
No problem, I was able to successfully install a new COP. Lucky for me it was the easy one, cylinder #5.
All this guy did was advertise the ACCEL coil pack, I don't understand why he did not show him actually removing and replacing the coil packs?
Appreciate the feedback John. At the time this video was made, we really didn't do how-to videos. We have greatly improved in our newer videos and this was a learning experience, but I unfortunately talked through the process when all people care about is watching the how. Got it, my bad.
save your time and skip the first 5 minutes of this video, it's nothing but rambling on and on.
Here you go.. you ask what time it is and you get a blueprint on how to build a clock. Here is the coil pack here is how you take it out and here is how you put them back. Is that too difficult to communicate?UA-cam Hollywood hero.
Whatever you do, don't use AC Delco sparkplugs. I've been driving F-150s for very long time and AC Delco's are a GM product. Stick with Motorcraft plugs.
Why don't you show actually putting it in
Perv!
Yeah the reason why you're watching his show is it see if he can show you something and how maybe you don't break it and stairs it's quickly that's how you do it
Why would you make this great video and not show how to disconnect the clips? 😭
what happened to see it fix it lol
You talk more than show, less talk more action since this is a how to video!!!
Thanks
98 is the worst to change these on
I cringed when he causally mentioned changing plugs.
Didn't see any actual "work".
I agreed, mostly talk how but dont see the process of doing it.
Have you received the Holy Ghost since you believed? And unto what were you baptized?
What the fuck was that. Didn't even show how to get it off..
Shops all are Bullshit!! I got quoted
900$ to change my spark plugs on my 04 FX4 ( their excuse, their long and prone to break)
Buddy cahnged them in an hour and half, deep socket and impact. So easy. Cost 360$ total parts and labour.
to much talking no action
worlds worst trucks ever early 2000 ford
useless video...did not show the coil removal
what did you really show how to do nothing you just stole ten minutes of my life
+Timmie Barber Sorry you feel that way. There are many other videos up now that also show how to do this. I chose to take a different angle which shows more on the "why" than the others out there. Best of luck with your repair.
First of all, I love the "All4HimRacing" name. That being said, please change the "How" to "Why" in this video. I didn't have time to understand "why", I just needed to know "how". I can see you're very knowledgeable and wish I knew a tenth of what you know but I wanted you to show me.
+rikenheimer Exactly....a How To sort of implies showing someone HOW not explaining WHY. We already know why, our engine is not running well and the code says misfiring cylinder.
Never showed removing anything sucked