Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day for Pulley Injury Recovery?
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- After a minor finger pulley injury popped back up I decided to try hangboard training twice a day to see if I could speed up my recovery time. I used Emil's video (link below) as a guide to structuring my own hangboarding routine.
I was shocked at the results after just one week of hangboard training 2 times per day. I cannot say that my results were solely from the training or that the results are reproducible. I am not a trainer nor a medical professional. Please consult the proper professional if you an unsure of how to train or treat an injury.
NOTE: I did not have my injury diagnosed by a medical professional. I cannot say exactly what or how severe the injury was. If I had a more severe pulley strain I would have taken a different approach.
Outline:
00:00 Intro
00:50 Background of Injury
02:28 My Hangboard Training Protocol
06:02 The Results (Frigidaire V12?)
09:15 Other Creator's Takes
Videos and links mentioned:
Emil Abrahamsson: • Hangboard Training 2 T...
Hooper's Beta: • CLIMBING BREAKTHROUGH!...
Eric Horst: • Finger Training You Ca...
Reddit Thread: / clearing_up_confusion_...
FA of Frigidaire: vimeo.com/61981150
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hey Bryan, you are a beast on sending that v12 ! Great video and thank you for sharing your experience!
Thanks Will!
Just have to say your voice is so relaxing. It’s like an ASMR video, but awesome vid as always!
Thanks Luke!
Glad to see this! After watching Emil, I went and read the study.
This, active recovery, seemed to be the most applicable use of that studies results and it's crazy how well it worked for you!
Now I have to check out hooper too 😅
Yes I am really happy with the results! I am interested to see if others have a similar experience to me. Definitely check out Hooper, he does a great job of explaining the medical side of things.
Looks like we got N=2 now! Psyched. Anyone who gets injured (including me) quickly realizes the importance of finger and tendon health, and I think the idea of working on form and technique on the hangboard at lower intensities is super underrated. Might be a good idea to cycle this in during bouldering season from now on!
Absolutely. My injury was/is very minor, but if I was doing this to begin with I don't think I would have been injured at all!
Thanks for sharing man! Cool to see that it had a positive effect on your performance. I was also thinking about trying the protocol. I do no longer have a hangboard at home so I would need to ride with the bike to the gym twice a day :-D But maybe I will do that.
Yeah I was very surprised by the results. Maybe the extra cardio will make it work twice as well haha!
You can just do finger loading on a door frame or door post. For these exercises, you're just applying a fraction of your total weight, which you can do on any kind of edge around the house. You also don't need to follow the particular hangboard protocol that Emil uses, because he basically made it up -- it's nowhere to be found in the article Emil uses. Just apply weight to one or both fingers in intervals over 6-10 minutes.
@@richarddoan9172 Thanks for your answer. The door frames in my new apartment are really not solid at all. I am not sure I would even apply like 60-70 % of my BW on these. So most likely I will not be able to use these. But thanks for the hint :)
@@boulderfighters2590 A few things. First, the 60-70% number does not come from the Baar article. It doesn't specify a load in terms of body weight. (Where did Emil get that? I'm guessing from his imagination.)
Second, use a vertical edge rather than your door frame. And just do one hand at a time, which cuts the load in half. Just do 6 minutes per hand. Find a corner or doorpost, curl your finger tips around it, and lean your body back. You can apply a pretty decent load. Third, to apply even more load per finger with little weight, use two fingers at a time and rotate your fingers over a 10 minute session.
(You also don't have to do two sessions. You can just do one session per day. So that's both hands alternating in a 12-15 minute session, or two 6 minute sessions, one per hand.)
Another thing to try is applying the load by lifting something rather than hanging. Maybe put a bunch books or weights on a coffee table and pull at the edge with your finger tips.
If you want to do the training without going to the gym, you can find way! Good luck.
When you come for the viral video only to find out you are featured in it... 🤯😲
Awesome that this worked out so well for you... and sick send! Did you feel it in your forearms while doing the no-hangs? Just trying to get the intensity right ;) Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thanks! While doing the no hangs I didn't feeling anything significant in my forearms. In my experience you want to go on the lighter side to avoid overdoing it.
Yayyyyyyy sick send brother! I have tweaked 2 fingers ha ha nightmare
Ahhh dude that's the worst! I always thought you had steel tendons with how much you are able to hang. Hopefully it's not too bad friend.
great video and useful info. the more stories of the protocol applied the better for sure. But he obvious question: HOW DOES YOUR FINGER FEEL????
Thanks Michael! So this was about 3 months ago. Right now it feels 100% better and it has for quite awhile. I've actually been much more comfortable crimping since I started this protocol. I think this is mainly due to being able to hang on a half crimp (and sometimes a full crimp) with very little resistance. Good way to build up to full body weight. Hope that helps!
@@BomberBeta that's great man. I have had about 6 pulley injuries over the years, up to 6 months out, and i just don't crimp anymore because of it, so this is just so great to hear. i am going to start the plan for sure.
I feel for you dude. Good luck on the routine and staying injury free. Don't be afraid for go really light on the hangs. I think just getting your fingers into the position makes a huge difference for folks like us that avoid crimping like the plague.
@@BomberBeta I will try it! Your video is the one that convinced me to give it a go. Thank you for that.
Had the exact same experience with 20 to 30 second hangs once a day (2 sets of 5 hangs with 2min in between, 8min set break) except on climbing days
Great to hear!
How much did you feel your injured fingered when you did the hangs? And did you dial back the load at all to not over stress that finger?
Good question Ryan. It's hard to say exactly. The first day it was maybe a 3/10 painwise. Then by the 5 day it was closer to a 1/10. Yesterday I didn't have any pain at all so I put slightly more weight on than the days I do feel some pain. So to answer your question, yes I tried to reproduce the pain the slightest amount and no more. I think this is why hanging with your feet on the ground really works. You can always adjust the load on the fly.
If you go after Volker Schöffl proper reorganisation takes place up to 1 year after intial injury. So take it a bit slower and maybe tape it up for some time
Are you referring to this one? www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032(03)70539-0/fulltext
Yes for multiple ruptures Volker suggests a full year. When I talked to him a few years back he said a minor strain would be around 3 months which is what he published in this paper. I didn't have mine diagnosed so I can't say with absolute certainty, but I believe mine was an A4 strain.
I have found that H-taping has been very useful in aiding in recovery
Use a weight scale to measure the percentage of body weight on the hangboard.
Yes while editing I realized this is possible, and quite simple with right equipment. The scale I have is digital and needs the weight to be stable to display an output. I think what you really need is a scale that records the weight at an interval or have a mechanical spring scale and watch the scale realtime.
You should reason Baar's original article. www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5371618/ Emil based his protocol on it, but completely overlooks the fact that the article is about tendons, and not muscles.
The article also says that adding collagen and vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis during loading. Emil for some reason completely disregarded this part of the article. Horst bases his discussion on this. You don't have to take Horst's "supercharged" collagen. You can get your own collagen and chewable C. Ingest about 30-60 minutes before the exercises.
Be aware that Emil *completely made up* his protocol. There is no discussion of finger exercises or load times in the article. Emil's protocol is not gospel.
Tendon stretches have been the standard rehab protocol for achilles tendons for a long time, so it makes sense that it would work for fingers. Look up eccentric exercises for achilles tendons and you can apply the exercises to fingers.