Finger Injuries - My experience w/ an A2 Pulley Sprain
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 кві 2023
- I recently got over my first climbing injury, and A2 pulley sprain. The most important thing is to get a proper diagnosis right away. That way, you can come up with a rehab plan that will target your specific injury. In this video I share my experience, as well as what I did to make it better. It's been about 7 weeks since my diagnosis, and I'm feeling confident enough to pull on some small holds at the gym again. Special thanks to Benchmark PT Las Vegas and Ricky Marine in this video!
#climbing #injury #rehab
Miguel → / miguelclimbs
Devin Meade →www.benchmarkptlv.com/
Ricky → / rickymarine
Sunday Sends Merch: miguel-climbs.creator-spring....
Links to my gear:
Main camera: amzn.to/3CbrKvh
Secondary Camera: amzn.to/3UtgIrd
Favorite FF Lens: amzn.to/3jNsRdB
2nd favorite: amzn.to/3C8Troy
Favorite APSC Lens: amzn.to/3CjKecj
2nd favorite: amzn.to/3Q9B5J0
Microphone: amzn.to/3WJyNmj
Small Mic: amzn.to/3GBUhMw
Gimbal: amzn.to/3QBmNzY
Small Gimbal: amzn.to/3QBnmd4
Lights: amzn.to/3X55b2L
Favorite Tripod: amzn.to/3gF4MBM
Carbon Fiber Monopod: amzn.to/3zAJkoS
Chalk: amzn.to/3j4M9IT
Shoes: amzn.to/3cZV7n2
Harness: amzn.to/3d1bqQu - Спорт
Currently recovering. Thanks a lot for this, gave me some hope
Yeah, it's been a few months now and my fingers are back at 💯. You got this!
Good to hear you are almost fully recovered. Took me about 5 weeks and then maybe 2 more weeks to get over it mentally to really try hard again. ❤
Crazy how many people have experienced pulley sprains in our sport haha. Glad you're back on top bro!
So glad to hear you’re almost fully recovered! Great video! 😊
Thank you!! 😊
Great video, listening to your body is definitely key, and not getting impatient and overdoing it. I never had a finger injury until I took a month off climbing and the first day back tried wayyyy too hard. I learned the importance of always easing back into it, and warming up!
Thanks for the feedback bro! Sucks when your mind is telling you yes, but your body is telling you no! 🥲
"Getting it properly diagnosed is the most important part of a finger injury." Truer words have not been spoken.
If you're from the US with the insane and disgusting healthcare system and costs, sometimes, unfortunately, it might not be worth it to get a professional opinion of a certified doctor
I had an injury to my middle finger. I tell you what helped me, and I advise anyone who happens having the same injury to do the same, because it works. I stopped climbing for almost 3 weeks. You can train the other hand, but you should not climb or use the hand you have injured. The recovery time is proportional to the seriousness of your injury. Some people recover faster than others.
Once you are on the right path, tape your injured finger with the cross technique. You can find more than one video explaining the technique. This releases the load on your pulleys, and you'll recover way faster. You can start climbing again, but do not pull too hard on that hand. Listen to your body, and pull moderately. Don't work on projects.
Consult a specialist only if the pain is strong, even at rest, otherwise just stop climbing for 2/3 weeks, and then use the tape as I suggested. Remember to cross your knuckles, if you don't it's useless. Doctors can't do shit. Unless you really fucked up and you need a surgery, there is literally nothing they can do.
It is a good idea to use the same technique to prevent injuries. I do that every time I climb, it would have most likely prevented my injury.
One way to test your fingers is to press your thumb against the other fingers of the same hand. There is a maximum amount of pressure your fingers can handle (the thumb is the strongest of course, so it will always win). Such pressure is way lower when you are injured, and it will increase in time when you get better. This helps you to understand if you are properly healing, and you can test if you are ready to climb again.
A lot of recent studies have shown that it's only good to rest until the swelling goes down, and then to start loading the finger asap unless you have a complete rupture. The initial loading should be extremely light, but nevertheless you should be loading it in some capacity. Then you progressively increase the load. Taping is good for helping while you are in recovery, but it's a bad idea to make this a habit when your fingers are healthy. You actually want to fully load your fingers to make them stronger.
Love this video man!!
Lol thanks bro! 🙏
When you started rehab, did u apply enough force untill you felt a bit of pain? Did u basically slowly improve your pain threshold again?
Hey Miguel, great video. Did your PT suggest any specific warm up routine before you climb to help properly prevent these injuries? I started to properly warm up before sessions to tackle my A2 injuries but I’m wondering if you have any routines I can add to my list
Hey Allan, yeah a proper warmup is key, but I feel like it will vary from person to person. For me, my warmup always includes a little bit of cardio to get the blood flowing, a lot of band work, getting the shoulders warmed up with scapular pullups, etc, and very light movement on the wall.
Whats your range of motion like during the worst days compared to now? i think im suffering something similar and i cant fully curl my fingers to make a fist
Nowadays it's much better. I've always felt weaker in my left fingers where the injury occurred. But in the beginning, yes, it was very difficult to make a closed fist. Now, it's much easier. Work on your tendon glides my friend! 🙌
Im also recovering from an A2 so I will chip in my protocol. I couldnt make a fist or crimp even a little bit. Here is my protocol:
Week 1: No hangboarding, climbing non-painful holds only
Week 2: Series of 10x 10 second hangs, twice a day, 35 mil edge, feet on the ground, slight discomfort while hanging (3/10 max)
Week 3: Series of 5x 10 second hangs with feet on ground, 2x hangs with feet in the air, 20mm edge, introducing crimpy climbs back while taping and being super careful, slight discomfort while hanging (2/10 max)
Week 4: 10x 10 second hangs with feet in the air, 20mm edge, last 3 sets are weighted. Slight discomforting while hanging (1/10 max) Starting to pull hard but when any sort of discomfort comes, I take 5 minutes off and assess. It usually goes away and doesnt come back for the rest of the session.
Week 5: Planning to get back to hard projecting but limiting super crimpy holds on the affected hand.
Sweet thank you for chiming in bro! Solid protocol. While my finger does feel better after my protocol, I'm still not mentally ready to pull hard on tiny crimps. I'm hoping to get over the mental barrier soon! Thanks again for the comment 🙌
@@MiguelClimbs I was reasonably strong before so not many boulders require my fingers to pull 100%. It really depends on what your limiting factor in bouldering is. I dont have to pull super hard on most of my projects (aside from the one that injured me, turns out a one move crimpy V10 is my limit when it comes to one move boulders 💀). Fortunately technique and power endurance limits me in most projects so the finger is rarely loaded to a risky point.
Hey guys, thanks for the video!
I am not sure if I have my pulleys injured, but the condition I have recently got does indeed match the description of having sort of a bruise on the middle fingerpad below the second joint (counting from the fingertip). My question would be how can I tell post-training tendon pain from proper injury of a pulley? In case of an injury should the pain persist for a couple of days without putting any strain on fingers or only during palpation?
Thanks in advance!
In my case, pain persisted without putting strain on the fingers. Even washing the dishes was painful on the pulley in the beginning. Your best bet is to get an ultra sound on it if you can! Thanks for watching :)
@@MiguelClimbs Yeah I better really do.
Thanks for your rapid reply! I wish you speedy recovery with your climbing, Miguel
Im going through the same exact thing except its both ring and middle finger on both hands. My PT has me hangboarding everyday for the same time. He is however letting me to climb also but im still having pain so i feel he might say hold off on the climbing now this week but ill find out tuesday.
Great video, glad to see you're almost fully recovered!
Thanks mango! 🙌
Did you have the sensation of the tendon rolling or thunking when closing and opening your finger/hand? I'm 2-3 weeks out from a moderate A2 and possibly A3 injury and still have that unstable tendon feeling when moving. Im wondering if I need to go to the ortho about that.
I actually did not have a rolling out thunking sensation. But I do know what you're talking about. I think going to get out checked out would be best!
I think I might have a2 pulley injury. But I think it is mild (have to check with the Dr.). I wanted to ask you, when did you start doing the hangboard rehab exercises, because in the video it seems you did them right after getting injured and that didn't seem like a problem? And thanks for the video it is helpful, especially for the peace of mind.
Hi there, yeah, I started immediately after. More recently I stained my pinky pulley, and I've been hanging and climbing at a lower capacity. It's not the end of the world, you got this! 💪
@@MiguelClimbs Nice! I wish you a speedy recovery! Thanks for replying ✌🏻
Sorry about your injury 😢
I'll survive 🥲
Perfect timing I've got a bad one right now
Go get it checked out bro!
did you hangboard before or after climbing?
Hey sorry I just saw this! In the beginning of my rehab I wouldn't even climb on hangboard days. Later on in the rehab, I would hang first, and then climb. Just because hanging takes a lot for my shoulders. Thanks for watching!
back to crushing
Back to crushing 💪
I have a finger injury but no insurance 😩
😥
First 🎉
Fast! 😎