2nd Gen 4Runner, Common Problems and How To Fix!!
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Every car has a few inherent flaws, let's be real. Even the best of them, like the 2nd Gen Toyota 4Runner, has one or two common problems that Toyota just managed to under engineer or something. So this video is short, because there are not many common issues! But the few 4Runner issues that the 2nd gen has are addressed here, and how to fix it!
They are super easy ones compared to most overland rigs!
Remember, always care for your rig, and your Toyota will last for seemingly ever!
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Vintage Toyota Knowledge Base: agilewoodsman.com/2nd-gen-4run...
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barely found your channel, I wanna thank you, I learned so much, I have 1991 2nd gen 4Runner, it was my grandmas, due to her illness it got passed down to me, I didn’t like this truck at first but I grew to appreciate it immensely! I can see why my grandma kept this truck when everyone told her to get rid of it. Thank you for your knowledge, it’s truly priceless, I hope to see you make more content soon ✊🏻
Nice! Glad you're enjoying it and that grandma kept it all these years. She knew what was up!
Doing my clutch pedal bracket right now, so great timing. Much love from OC, CA
Yeah man, not the most fun job. You have to be a bit of a contortionist, but it's not too bad. Good luck and much love back to ya!
Thanks for doing these videos! Hope you are doing well ☕️
Thanks Holly!! Doing well here, hope you're having a great fall!
Another great video!! That's some more great stuff for me to watch out for I've just replaced the rubber boot that goes to throttle body cause po had put orange rtv all around the split which was also in edge of throttle body. Just got timing belt kit with water pump and parts but found I have no compression in 3 of 6 cylinders so don't know what's gonna happen now. Thanks for sharing be safe have fun
Ooof yeah, unfortunately no compression isn't a good sign.
Recently changed out mine. made a big difference!
Good to hear!
I had a 4runner withcracks in the intake. The cracks were near the top clamp. I filled the cracks with RTV and that fixed it.
I didn't know about those 3 things. I'll have to keep an eye on them. A few things that are common, and so maybe too obvious, are the original starter going out, back window (relay) going out or having problems (cleaning and lubing the track helps), plastic wheel turning stops wearing thru (horrible noise...put grease on them), rear sag (new springs), and that plastic part on the manual shifter (when worn, starts to drop out of gear). That, plus dead antennae, cracked dash (both already a problem when I bought it), and problems with the overhead light have been the problems I have had over the last ~20 years on my 92 4runner, but it only has 188k on it so far. I've also replaced the shocks, muffler, cat, and CV axles after the boots finally cracked, though I've since read that the OEM ones were pretty great, and it would have been worth the greasy mess to just put new boots on them.
Speedometer is out before warming up, so I probably have some solder joints to fix.
Yeah good list. Ice had a few of those, not many though thank goodness.
Appreciate the tips there….I was just reading about the IdlerArm with the Brass bushings …Guess I’ll break done and purchase one from the guy….I’ll check my hose for cracks and see if their is a problem…
I was given a 1992 Toyota SR5 / 4 WD at Christmas …My Father -In - Law gave it to me and I have changed all shocks…Driver Side Axle….New Timing Belt and Gears…New Red Antifreeze….New Battery…Changed all gear oils…New Tires…Repaired Dome Light…It just changed over to 120,000 miles ….
What a great gift! And nice low miles at that. Check out my newer videos for more ideas. And more uploads soon. Thanks for watching man!
keep the videos up....I just got a 2nd owner 1993 manual with 159K california car no rust...got it cheap because I had to do the knock sensor....so Ive been working on her and doing alot of stuff....Not much info I trust on the internet....
Great! Enjoy it, enjoy the process of taking care of it. And I'm glad you find everything helpful!
@@AgileWoodsman I'm falling down the rabbit hole...had a bad CV axle and decided if i had it appart to do ball joints upper lower and tie rod ends and shock...I do have a question I'm getting a code 12 (1993 3vze) and it shows "Engine speed (RPM) sensor-circuit" is this the speed sensor in my manual transmission? no check engine light I can only pull the code if I jump e1 t1 in the diag port...thanks
Thanks for the tips I've had my 1990 4Runner 3VZE 5 speed for 28 years. I just got mine back from the engine builder and I promise myself to take better care of it. I had the clutch bracket problem two times I finally had to get auto body shop to do some welding there. It has not been a problem since. Thanks for the tip on the passenger side steering bracket I have to take a look at those. My vehicle steering is still pretty good it's not wandering and I have the original steering gearbox. I fixed gearbox leaks with ATP AT-205 about 2 oz. first tried 1 oz that helped a lot then I put one more ounce later that pretty much was the last time I ever had to put fluid in that Reservoir again. I just checked it and it's still full that's been since February. I need the new large 4" hose that attaches to the throttle body and I'm going to look for leaks underneath of it I already have a new hose. I've got some cracks in the hose on the PCV valve and I see another crack on another hose coming out of the mass air flow sensor. I have a little whistle coming out of the brake booster I'm probably going to try the ATP stuff there. I changed my differential fluid over to Mobil 1 75w 90 synthetic. I added about 1.2 oz of ATP to see if that will slow down or stop the pinion seal leak at the front of the third member where it meets the U-joint. I'm using that Lucas synthetic 75w 90 in the transmission and it's really really smooth. If there's a better product I would like to know about it. Some years ago I had Midas give me a new cat and a new muffler and the cat is not a Toyota it is one from Midas but all my exhaust pipes are original and the U-joints are original and I have 306,400 Miles... I'm passing emissions test with no problem in Arizona. I pulled my wrecked Sienna van using a car dolly back from Mexico about 5 years ago it was about a 6-hour drive and it was really stressing the 4Runner drivetrain but I made it home so I decided it was worth keeping the 4Runner. 3 weeks later the head gasket blew
Sounds like you're doing everything right! I switched to synthetic also. I used additive in my power steering also and it worked just fine.
I'll be pulling the top part of the motor off and doing hoses, pcv, repairing my AC and valve cover gaskets. Probably this fall when it's not over 100 degrees out lol. Sorry to hear about the head gasket. Maybe that towing was just a bit much. But I'm glad you're fixing her up! I plan on doing the same when the time comes. Thanks for sharing!
@@AgileWoodsman The certified engine builder had experience with these engines, 3VZE but getting parts was difficult. (as expected) He gave me a 2 yr warranty. He taught me something critical that I have not heard anywhere else and is important. GASKET kits must not be expired, and they must be quality made. The parts must be sourced from the right places, as he has a machine shop to machine the block, heads, all of that and as a machine shop/builder they had to do it right and they are BBB rated and reputation. They do commercial vehicles & contract maintenance for large businesses. I have new toyota cams. I have oem heads, my block is shaved, the heads shaved a little. new pistons, rings, all of that. This VS me getting a Jasper engine. So with the Midas Cat & Muffler, and stock MASS airflow the motor seems to have more power, and I have absolutely no leaks. The real test will be going up the mountain (soon) Getting back to gasket kits, they must be top quality and no older than a couple years of age. Otherwise they shrink too much. An opening on a gasket changes with time if left in the packaging unused. They shrink. So fresh gasket kits must be used, they actually have DATE CODES on the gasket kits. So like a loaf of bread, they must be fresh and made recently. Or else a front crank seal might have to be changed again due to the replacement part being on the shelf too long. PATIENCE on my part was very necessary. Not getting angry with the shop. It took 13 months and many times I doubted about getting my vehicle back, but I did not get angry with the shop and in the end I am pleased with my engine working well. I have minor tweaking still, (The AC idle) but I know its something outside the engine, possible idle up valve and I have some minor visible hose leaks. I'm waiting for a cloudy day to fix (much cooler). and I use a pop up 8x8 shade when I'm working on my vehicles, and in the mornings the driveway is much cooler for me for sit on.
@@tonyisme4934 That's a ton of great info and good mentality stuff there, thanks for sharing all that! It'll be so helpful for others too.
If you feel like it's worth it, share where you got the work done.
I hear ya on the heat! It's over 100 degrees here every day. Most of my projects are waiting for fall right now. But mines getting some nice refurbishing this fall for a 30 year birthday gift lol.
@@AgileWoodsman They can call AtoZ Transmissions in El Mirage, but I am not sure if they will consider working on a 3VZE after mine, (Parts & experience) but they would have to call & find out.
@@tonyisme4934 I'm surprised parts were such an issue. Thanks for sharing!
Love your vids I have just bought a 1990 toyota 3.0 petrol camper with 55000 miles what should I look out for or what parts should I change asap
Wow that is low miles!! It's probably Sat quite a bit. Do a full tuneup. Change all the fluids. Have a close look at the radiator, they can get brittle with age. Maybe a fuel filter. Then check all hoses and vacuum lines. Other than that, if it runs good, drive it around a bit and how it goes. Oh inspect brakes too. Good luck!!
I had a 91 and paid a mechanic to replace the clutch & pressure plate. On a test drive it still had the grinding when trying shift. It wound up it was the clutch/pedal bracket that the spot welds had broken and it kept cracking & bending the bracket so that the clutch could not entirely engage. He welded it back together and spot welded it back in place and like magic worked perfectly after that. So, if you think your clutch is going out be sure to check that pedal bracket before the exspense of a clutch job that's not really needed like I did. You can see the mounting plate moving when engaging the clutch and may need to look while someone else pushs the clutch in......
Yes! This is a super common problem on these. Mine broke close to 300k miles so I'm hoping the new one lasts that long. I hear reinforcing it and welding it is actually a stronger repair.
I am giving better attention to testing the radiator coolant using Phoenix Systems test strips to chech PH/Acidicy levels..and mixing the red toyota fluid at 70% and 30% distilled water. I'm using the Toyota longer 90915-YZZD3 oil filter which also fits the Lexus LS400 and has the emergency oil bypass valve. Some filters have this oil bypass valve. The oil change places those inexpensive much smaller filters did not have this bypass valve...
Yup that's why I do my own oil changes, along with everything else. Most businesses cheap out these days. But they aren't doing it to my rig!
bulb list:
(1993, 1994, 1995)
High & low beam headlight 9004
Parking light 168
Front turn signal 1156
Rear turn signal 1156
Tail light 1157
Stop light 1157
High mount stop light 921
License plate 168
Back up light 921
Front sidemarker 168
Glove box 74
Map light DE3022
Step/Courtesy light DE3175
Step/Courtesy light DE3021
Step/Courtesy light DE3022
Trunk/Cargo area DE3175
Instrument-general 194
Excellent thanks!!
My father-in-law has a 95 4runner and it has low rpm during idle and slow acceleration, especially when going uphill. Is it possible that the rubber hose you mentioned is the problem?
It might be. Might want to check when the last tune up was for starters. Vacuum leaks, and maybe the IAC is out of adjustment. Check my website agilewoodsman.com for a page that has all the info on how to do that.
That clutch bracket took me like a week to figure out. We replaced the clutch and the cylinders and and did some other various witchcraft and then finally saw that crack.
Didn't buy a new one, we took a welder to it and beefed it up.
That's what a lot of guys do. And welding just might be a stronger option imo. But yeah, it's a bugger to figure out and causes lots of guys to replace parts needlessly. You're not the only one! Glad you got it sorted out.
@@AgileWoodsman Thanks man! You don't happen to have advice for me on something else, do you?
3l v6 has always kind of struggled at idle, would die if I braked hard and turned at the same time, but then I went through a good puddle pretty hard and it started dying on idle every time, we fiddled around with it and now it dies after maybe 10 seconds consistently and like 50% of the time when I press the gas too quick it dies immediately.
Doesn't seem to be a vacuum problem, isn't that hose that you mentioned in this video, I checked the MAF and changed the fuel filter, the fuel pump is at least supplying fuel (though maybe it's being inconsistent which might be causing the problem), not the air filter, and although I haven't cleaned out the IACV yet I don't see how water could have caused that problem.
Oh, no water got into the engine by the way, just the air filter which I changed.
Maybe a computer or wiring problem? It works great for the first few seconds, then starts sputtering, then dies. After changing the fuel filter it started sometimes not dying when I press the gas, I don't know if that helps.
Sounds and runs fantastic when I can get the rpms up, a little backfire sometimes is all.
I'm not asking you to be my mechanic here, I'm just wondering if you know of a 2nd gen 4runner specific problem that I might not have thought of!
@@undefined6947 OK yeah clearly the water caused something. You know, fine before event, not fine after. So it probably isn't maintenance items like the fuel filter.
Water getting into the electronics isn't usually a big issue, it's an old Toyota! But age sometimes exposes things.
Water in the air filter, that's a big puddle! Clean and double check the VAFM (we don't have a MAF).
Check distributor too, and wires. Make sure spark isn't arching and your ignition is consistent.
You'll probably have to start probing electrics and sensors after that.
Also check for codes, instructions on my website. Good luck!!
@@AgileWoodsman Got it, thank you! I forgot to mention the distributor is fine we replaced it already. No big deal, it was wearing out anyways. We haven't played with timing or ignition yet but, as I said, it sounds beautiful unless it's trying to die.
And yeah lol, it was a very big puddle...
The weird thing is that changing the fuel filter did help a little, but I'm guessing that the backpressure it was causing was just not helping the actual problem rather than causing the problem in itself.
Got a few codes, air intake sensor and throttle position sensor circuit. I don't really know what that means yet, I'm still trying to learn, didn't know what a distributor was last week! Knock sensor was bad when I bought it, just haven't put the new one in yet out of laziness, but it does give me that code because the sensor is bad.
Anyway, thank you for the help! Looks like we're gonna have to really poke around at this thing!
@@undefined6947 That's how you learn! Keep at it! And oh yes! The iAC absolutely can cause misfires, bad idle, and things like that. Code 24?
I got a 93 4runner 5sp 3.0 4x4. Runs good but.... motor started "pulsing" or "lugging" at cruising speed (mild load with just a little throttle 2500ish RPM). If you give it more throttle before the lugging gets bad the the engine catches on and take off or you need to downshift too get the RPMs up in the poser band (3000+) range and all is good. I replaced the TPS based on all the stuff I had read up on. Cannot say that has made a difference. I guess when I think I have it adjusted correctly things get better - and if I over comp one way or another it seems to move the issue slightly up or down on the RPM range. If I unplug the TPS it seems I still feel a little bit of the issue but not as bad. btw: I changes our the fuel filter and have changed out 99% of the vacuum hoses. Rig has 250k and the plugs were done at 210k. Wires look good but I cannot confirm that they were changed or the condition of the rotor (just have not pulled it to look yet).
This has got to be something simple but it is eluding me what to do. Please help! I need this to be AWESOME for my wife who love this rig.
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
Hey Jeff, lots going on Herr and it's often hard to diagnose over the internet. Make sure your replacement TPS is good! I can see I need to do a video or 8 on diagnosing.
Almost always though, start with a tuneup...Plugs, wires, rotors, cap etc. Air filter, fuel filter if suspect. Also a good visual inspection of all vacuum lines, hoses, fittings etc. And check for codes. Instructions on my website. Good luck!!!!!.
@@AgileWoodsman Update - changed the cap and rotor - they were defiantly fouled. It ran great and the issue went away. YAY! BUT... next morning the issue was back... going to check the cap tonight and see if it fouled or not.
Update 2/20 - so at idle you can very faintly hear a hiccup every so often - if you throttle up to say 1700rpm - it will drop 200-300 rpm then jump back up - over and over. --------..--------..--------..--------..---- that sort of thing. If you hold the throttle higher (3000rpm) it just runs rough.
To date the following are all new: fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, O2 sensor, all vacuum lines, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor, ignition coil, igniter, intake gasket, had the ECU all tested OK.
Any ideas? Please... lossing my mind over this... ;)
@@chartlightsdid u get it fixed? 😆
no - not yet - have had a lot of "Toyota" people try with no luck. Was brought up that maybe the catalytic converter might be clogged - so in the next day or so I am going t pull the O2 sensor and run it with the exhaust leak and see how it goes. @@thattarek
I just picked up a 1993 4runner 2months ago and have been working on it
It’s an automatic
But it’s been stalling when I put it in drive and idle runs below 1000RPM
The gas is running rich and it kinda putters
I already replaced the spark plugs, mass airflow, fuel pump and filter, the hoses, and a few other parts but can’t figure it out
Any ideas on what it could be ?
Lots of things to consider during the diagnosis procedure. I'd first want to know if it's happening with the engine cold, hot, or both?
Did you try plug wires and distributor cap and rotor?
And fuel filter
Hi bud I've just bought a 1990 3.0 motor home 53000 miles looking to look after it to last me years just wondering what would you do to it at this mileage to keep it going
I answered your question already on another video. Go have a look!
@@AgileWoodsman thank you so much
Okay, here's a touchy subject 🤔 synthetic or conventional engine oil? Specifically for the good ol' 3VZE
Either or. Some claim switching to a synthetic can cause leaks, or due to the nature of synthetic, is more prone to leaks.
I use a semi synthetic, the high mileage Valvoline. No issues.
Regular dino oil with regular changes every 3k Miles or so is fine and works. But I'd be fine with trying other things.
@@AgileWoodsman Thanks man, I appreciate it 😀
So my radiator fan is (at least I think) being super loud, especially at 3000 RPM, it sounds a semi hahaha could my fan clutch be on it's way out???
@@Natureboy562 It might be. But a somewhat common problem is the bearings in the fan bracket itself. It's the bracket that attaches to the front of the motor that the fan bolts to. Like where a water pump would be on an old American V8. Check that first!
on the passenger side, that frame mounted steering bracket (slightly angled) does not have a zerk fitting, its original. I am now worried.
That's the idler arm. From the factory, it won't have a zerk. Mine was put in when i upgraded the bushings.
@@AgileWoodsman OK my passenger side Idler Arm i have never touched, its original. It has no rust on it,
it has letters IAK9424 L so I would like to know how to test it. Maybe it needs rebuilt, as it has no Zerk. Also any idea on how to get the stains off the Offset 8 Toyota Aluminum Rims, the rims are significantly sturdy and I have no plans to get rid of them. Every "parts" truck or "parts" 4Runner has them, and they aren't damaged. And another thing, I would like some product to reduce the pitting in the windshield ..very tiny "chips" they are very tiny. And what is that large black canister (metal) just above the Idler Arm on the passenger side? it has two hoses going to it (or wires) it is inside the wheel well......Thus far I have a quarter size leak under the diff after 2 days sitting, much better than before whit the 1oz of ATP
@@tonyisme4934 Hey! Idler arm, you'd know because your steering would feel loose and wonky. But to be sure, you can jack up the front end and have someone push pull the tires side to side and watch the idler arm. If it's wobbling side so side it might be wearing out.
Rims, I'd just google that. There are so many good car detailing guys out there. They'd know better than I do.
Windshield, there are products at the auto parts store to fix small chips. Just ask at the counter. Or have a window place to chip repair.
The black thing is the charcoal canister. IT's part of the emissions/evap system.
I have 90’ 3.0 pickup. It didn’t pass Ca. Smog and pretty sure the throttle body is the problem. It runs rich. Nobody wants to fix it. Can they be rebuilt?
No one wants to fix it? That's strange. Usually small shops have no problem looking at it. Dealerships, not so much.
Maybe check for codes first? Instructions are on my website.
Hi mate I have 2nd gen 4 runner with a 22r motor I need help it cranks over but it won't start
Oh man, that can be so man things. But I'd always start with the basics. An engine always needs air, fuel, and spark to run. So check that you're getting those things. Make sure you're getting fuel pressure. Good strong spark. Make sure you're getting good compression. Check for codes, instructions on my website.
How many miles did yours have when clutch bracket went out?
Probably around 280k or so.
Question my harmonic balancer bolt came out on me today any insite I am stranded with no tools where I am been trying to read to find out but it’s all crazy talk. Need to get it tight so I can drive it 65 miles home at least
@@koolkatkustomdiecast801 What did you end up doing?
grazie, buon viaggio
You're welcome!
I have issues going up hill, no codes. Loses speed going up hill, wont pass 3000rpm
Manual or auto? These things are pretty bad on hills honestly. But not revving? That might be a problem. Will it pass 3000 rpm otherwise, ever?
A when I cut my 4runner on the doors unlock why
The doors won't lock with the key in the ignition and parked. It's kind of handy so you don't lock your keys in the car.
Voice too low
I just listened. It's loud on my end! Thanks for letting me know.
Always welcome bro