I have/had a 99 ranger that had similar problems, when it got cold it started having problems starting and got to the point it wouldn't even start. I replaced plugs and plug wires on it, worked fine for a week or so, then found out it jumped time. I still have the truck, but it needs a new oil pump so its just been sitting for awhile. So just a couple ideas as to what could be wrong. Also, I ordered some parts from rock auto, but it took like 3 weeks for them to arrive, they ended up refunding me for the parts and let me keep them because I have ordered alot in the past from there.
Yea not sure what is taking Rock Auto so long, I've order from them in the past and always get it in a couple of days. I've been wondering about the timing as well.
Had the same issue on a 92 ranger 2.9. it was the lower intake manifold gasket, there was a vacuum leak in cylinder 2 and 5, it was also sucking in oil, some carbon build up on the plugs. It appears that the lastime Time the truck had work those intake bolts were not torqued properly. They were actually loose when I removed it.
What gaskets did you order off of rock auto ? I just bought a 1987 ford ranger That I believe needs valve cover gaskets . And what do you think about the cork gaskets on rock auto . Are they any good ?
I was wondering about the cork gaskets as well. My friend's 1989 ranger has an oil leak, likely the valve cover gaskets, but the replacement ones he has are cork. They better or worse than rubber?
Hopefully I’m not too late to the party on this video, with it being 6 years old. Do you happen to know the bolt size for the 2.9L valve covers? About to replace my gaskets for the second time and it’s probably time for new bolts after so many thermal cycles.
I had a similar issue with my 89 Ford Ranger. It was something really weird. The ignition key runs to bar that controls the ignition switch which is a plastic slider. Over time the plastic had become brittle and fell apart. It was just being held together by the molding around the steering column. The vibration from the idle would cause it to lose connection on the switch and the engine would die. After it was running, the idle would smooth out and it would run fine. You might check that plastic slider that is at the base of the steering column in the cab.
Ive got a 90 ranger with the 2.9. Have done plugs, cap, rotor, MAF sensor and it dtove like a dream for a couple years. Now its starting to stall out when I put it into gear along with sputtering and wanting to stall while driving. I have to give its gas and it'll keep going. Check engine light flashes quick and goes out again. Idk where to start. Any idea would be appreciated, thanks for the content.
Filter was replaced this last summer. I can hear the pump come on and prime when I turn the key. When I put it into gear after it's been idling it's like the keys been turned off. Gonna look into the TPS and I suppose I can check fuel pumps pressure.
89 ranger, 2.9 v6. cant get to top back bolt on passenger side, because of wiring harness into distributor...but cant unplug wiring, because its up against valve cover. any guidance, advice or direction is appreciated.
No, I have not changed the idle air control valve, it was probably replaced 10-15 years ago. I did a voltage test on it and it seems to be working. I replaced the fuel filter maybe 3-5 years ago, I do have another one on order though so I do plan to replace it.
RDAllen that part has a spring in it that can get week and go bad, I'll look and see if I have that one here, but am sure they all have the spring, which is what usually fails in them
I have a stuck valve on my driver side. the valve that's stuck ticked before it got stuck and when it's stuck which is most of the time the tick won't happen. what's your opinion on fixing it? new head? or new lifters? or maybe something else? thanks
I have/had a 99 ranger that had similar problems, when it got cold it started having problems starting and got to the point it wouldn't even start. I replaced plugs and plug wires on it, worked fine for a week or so, then found out it jumped time. I still have the truck, but it needs a new oil pump so its just been sitting for awhile. So just a couple ideas as to what could be wrong. Also, I ordered some parts from rock auto, but it took like 3 weeks for them to arrive, they ended up refunding me for the parts and let me keep them because I have ordered alot in the past from there.
Yea not sure what is taking Rock Auto so long, I've order from them in the past and always get it in a couple of days. I've been wondering about the timing as well.
Had the same issue on a 92 ranger 2.9. it was the lower intake manifold gasket, there was a vacuum leak in cylinder 2 and 5, it was also sucking in oil, some carbon build up on the plugs. It appears that the lastime Time the truck had work those intake bolts were not torqued properly. They were actually loose when I removed it.
Wow that’s not good!
What gaskets did you order off of rock auto ? I just bought a 1987 ford ranger That I believe needs valve cover gaskets . And what do you think about the cork gaskets on rock auto . Are they any good ?
I was wondering about the cork gaskets as well. My friend's 1989 ranger has an oil leak, likely the valve cover gaskets, but the replacement ones he has are cork. They better or worse than rubber?
Have you considered welding a muffler to the valve cover oil port?
Hopefully I’m not too late to the party on this video, with it being 6 years old. Do you happen to know the bolt size for the 2.9L valve covers? About to replace my gaskets for the second time and it’s probably time for new bolts after so many thermal cycles.
I had a similar issue with my 89 Ford Ranger. It was something really weird. The ignition key runs to bar that controls the ignition switch which is a plastic slider. Over time the plastic had become brittle and fell apart. It was just being held together by the molding around the steering column. The vibration from the idle would cause it to lose connection on the switch and the engine would die. After it was running, the idle would smooth out and it would run fine. You might check that plastic slider that is at the base of the steering column in the cab.
Went through the same
Did you just have to finagle the cover a little bit in the back to get it off? I have to change the gasket on my 89 ranger.
yes, had to work around all the wires.
RDAllen yeah I did mine right after that. Was quite the hassle getting the passenger side cover off but it wasn’t too bad
Would this be the same way for a 1986 for me ranger? I have to replace my valve cover gasket
I think so yes
Yes
I replaced my idle air control valve recently and cleaned up the bypass and it made my truck start to die... no idea what to do next
Does it die while idling? Or die while driving? I would start by checking the rest of the vacuum connections/lines.
Ive got a 90 ranger with the 2.9. Have done plugs, cap, rotor, MAF sensor and it dtove like a dream for a couple years. Now its starting to stall out when I put it into gear along with sputtering and wanting to stall while driving. I have to give its gas and it'll keep going. Check engine light flashes quick and goes out again. Idk where to start. Any idea would be appreciated, thanks for the content.
Gas pump? Filter? Throttle body?
Filter was replaced this last summer. I can hear the pump come on and prime when I turn the key. When I put it into gear after it's been idling it's like the keys been turned off. Gonna look into the TPS and I suppose I can check fuel pumps pressure.
Hey I'm doing my gaskets now and notice that I'm miss a bolt for each cover. Would you no the bolt specs or where I can find
Should be able to get them at any hardware store, I’d like to say they were 6mm metric, just take a current one along for comparison
RDAllen thanks I found them. Yeah just did bolt match at AutoZone worked out pretty good
89 ranger, 2.9 v6. cant get to top back bolt on passenger side, because of wiring harness into distributor...but cant unplug wiring, because its up against valve cover. any guidance, advice or direction is appreciated.
Can you rotate the distributor out of the way? Just make sure you mark where to rotate it back or have a timing light so you can time it again
RDAllen ...thanx!...thats what i was thinking, but wanted a 2nd opinion.
yeaah i would recommend a nissan
My 1988 had loose valve cover bolts. The guy i bought it from tightened them.
7:15
A TEN METER SOCKET 😲
TEAM LIFT!!!!
It’s a big one!
__
do drive this a lot or you have something else for every day?
No, I drive this every day, it is my only vehicle.
@@radozeman Yeah,,me too,!. It's all I got...
MY GOD MAN UR BRAVE! :)
Although this isn't pry the issue, when's the last time you put on a fuel filter?
Also did you say you changed your idle air control valve? I seen it on the right side sitting long ways up top of intake
No, I have not changed the idle air control valve, it was probably replaced 10-15 years ago. I did a voltage test on it and it seems to be working. I replaced the fuel filter maybe 3-5 years ago, I do have another one on order though so I do plan to replace it.
RDAllen that part has a spring in it that can get week and go bad, I'll look and see if I have that one here, but am sure they all have the spring, which is what usually fails in them
Hmmm ok. I might want to replace that then as well.
Try the other things first, but in the end I would give that a shot any ways
time to rebuild the engine, just rebuilt my 96 Chevy.
IAC PROBLEM OR VACUME LEAK
I have a stuck valve on my driver side. the valve that's stuck ticked before it got stuck and when it's stuck which is most of the time the tick won't happen. what's your opinion on fixing it? new head? or new lifters? or maybe something else? thanks
Rebuild the head maybe, also make sure your exhaust is in good shape.
alright thanks. would I have to use break in oil or not and if I had to would it be to thin for everything else?
My truck dies ones when it’s supper cold and second is a charm summer it’s instant start
Lots possibilities, I would start with vacuum leaks first though.
Cork gaskets get saturated and shrik, thus loose bolts.
I know this is an old video but, fuel pressure regulator.
Negative, manifold pressure sensor.
Check your injector wires . That's where I found my problem.
It was actually the air sensor
"Old Ford Ranger" how dare you lol
Well it is old compared to everything else on the road.
maybe a fuel pressure Problem???
I did connect my fuel pressure tester, running about 35-40 psi, which I believe that is where is supposed to be.
7:20 is when he shuts up and starts working
Folks folks folks 😭
Second :o
First
malachi400400900 duran 0033 and....
Its the idle air control valve thats your problem
Nope it was the manifold pressure sensor
@@radozeman the big silver thing on the intake
Be quite and get straight go the job. Waste of time.