A friend of mine brought me an X3 with the m47 that was burning oil and water badly, another mechanic dismantled it and put all the parts in the back, then never finished it, and came to me. This video really helps where each part goes, thanks!
Thanks for your coment🙏 I am verry happy to help people on solving their issues without beign ripped in different workshops. Happy that this video helped you to solve your issue 👍 🤝
For owners that are here about this engine. this is the last cast iron engine comming out of factory.. which probably will last forever. I used 5W40 from 250k km TWO makes of oil, Mobil 1 for a while, then a switch to Shell Pure Plus. oil change 15k km. If you drive decently in revs early in the morning and let it run for 1 minute or 2 before you drive in the morning... it will oulast any other engine!!!!!! As a plus I used (and still using of course!) 2 Stroke oil (FB category for non-DPF model), and this formula looks after HP pump and injectors, big time! 250 ml/50 litres of diesel. ....Have I told you that 2 injectors "failed" with a loud BANG in one early moning while driving? Tested them all with return flow; 2 of them were pissing a lot of fuel (2 of them) ...send them to specialist Bosch testing and repair center. Got tested on the bench ------ got a phone call from them ----- my injectors passed all the bench tests. they were the original one factory fitted, at that moment lasted 480k km!!!! NO SIGN OF FAILURE except that BANG in the mornig... but the engine carried running... even after that. And I put all this on the use of 2 Stroke Oil. It is NOT a kind of placebo; is definiitely not for me!! This is a real fact. Off course I told them to rebuild those injectors (cost 300 pounds for 2) because they were the worst on my poor little return flow test.. I hope this helps other to consider this workable prevention. A, before a leave.. the intake manifold it was clogged up with gunk, deposits at 250k km when I bought the car. !!. After extensively using 2 Stroke oil formula, NO DEPOSITS on intake manifold! Checked twice; nothing to clean! Have I told you it has the genuine EGR and swirl flaps at almost HALF MILLION KILOMETERS? Yes it does! ?..how much it cost an EGR? A lot.. I wish you all well and I might inspire a few with my experience; real, genuine, no BS.
Hello! What are you mean "loud BANG"? Why do you use 5w-40? 5w-30 is fitted for this engine C3 Castrol Edge. What kind/brand of 2Stroke oil have you using? Thanks!
@@istvanbognar5453 well lets agree over something - no injectors live forever! 😉 Then there is and won't be a better description of what I said... a loud bang is similar with a big hammer like a kilogram heavy hitting a large 0.5 to 1cm thick piece of metal on the pavement; it was that kind of noise; and only once ...being hit.. or similar noise when same hammer hit a empty metal barrel, once, again. You got the idea. Why? Probably because the car most of the time has been driven moderatly on acceleration, not often with harsh acceleration and brake of speed.. so the engine being slowly accelerated everything else has kind of time to happen around the injectors including A RETURN FLOW process, which i noticed last time when I fitted the "new" actually well rebuild x2 injectors that I put back on the engine. Prior to that I did another return flow on all injectors - 2 off ebay, 2 as old as the ones sent for rebuild to Bosch representative! Well, now according to the last test when 2 where massively leaking back fuel and sent for rebuild, the ones that were in use atthe present moment under test where leaking kind of 3 more (almost the same) and one a quite a bit less.. (so this is a second test after I first touched the injectors with the incident of bang..). So now, after replacing the really old ones with the refurbished (and tested again) for return flow - THREE WERE LEAKING LESS (I mean normal!) than one (this one off ebay). So the injectors were registered in DDE as well after every change for better injectors.. I hope this is now much clearer.
@@istvanbognar5453 So, I think, this happend to me specifically because the car was driven moderately a lot of time, and trying to put everything back together, in my mind, one "strange" thing I noticed on the engine, when I was testing for return flow , was that on the hose that is connected to the return to send back the fuel (return of diesel by itself flowing, I imagined..) ACTUALLY there is a bit of pressure, I MEAN REAL FLOW of fuel COMMING TOWARDS THE INJECTORS from the back! So now I am thinking that the "flow back" expression is real because of this flow I notice! so there at the injectors, there is a forward flow, from high pressure ramp, via switching part of the injectors.. but a pressure from some pump.. (high pressure pump returning fuel not needed for high pressure..?) that actually can fload the injectors from opposite direction, hence kind of detonation when 2 piston could get fuel and detonate at the same time.../ just to add an idea - the BANG was manifested with a sudden (brief) stop of the car, engine.. but then, fraction of a second later IT KEPT GOING, running. you see, when you do the return flow test, peoples blocked, or locked the return flow from from the injectors back to fuel tank. Me, I haven't blocked/locked that hose, wanted to watch and aknowledge everything. There is many, many more time return flow of the diesel, "back" (actually towards the return of the injectors!) than from the injectors themselves!!! So, I believe that is the case of return flow! the error code on Carly or ISTA+ is the same: internal ECU16 / internal control unit 16 / DDE control unit. Code: 4293 (clear as mud..)
@@istvanbognar5453 wrong. BMW is using Shell as their oil supplier for a little whle (couple of years) More specific, Shell pure plus technology. I am using that oil for about 150k miles. over 200k km. AND 5w30 was used for FIRTS 250k miles. Do not tell me that there is no wear out in ICE engine after 200k miles or 300k miles, equivalent to 400k km or 500k km...! Do you understand a bit how an engine work or you just ask? If you nevere repaired anything to the engine then let's not argue. 🙂😉
M47 engine need Castrol C3. Shell is a newer Engine need. Anyway why wrote Castrol sign on the Oil filling Cap? Just a decoration? Iam not thinking that...@@MrFryfish
Thank you for this very helpful video. I am planning to change my chains soon too on my 2006 BMW 320d with manual transmission. It has 410.000km and I suspect the chains have never been replaced. (There is no mention of it in the service booklet which seems to be complete for all maintenance and repairs). Some questions I hope you can help with: 1. Why did you loosen the 2 engine mounts? Is that needed to lower the subframe? 2. In a pro Haynes service instruction (which is way to superficial in my view) it says the transmission must be removed. I have not seen this in your video nor in any other instruction. I guess it’s not needed. 3. I am also struggling to find the proper way to lock the engine. I saw in another comment the pinhole is located close to the starter. Is it in the transmission housing? And I assume you rotate the crankshaft close to the TDC by visually checking (by placing a rod in cilinder 1?) and next try to insert the pin? To lock the pin in the hole the flywheel must be aligned very precisely. Seems quite difficult for just 1 person. Or is there a smart way to do this? Additional info on this locking is highly appreciated. 4. How did you torque the crankshaft pulley to the right torque (100Nm and 150 degrees). Did you use a special pulley blocking tool? 5. Did you clean the housing of the injectors, especially the surface where the copper ring meets the engine block, somehow before putting the injectors back? I read somewhere else that this is quite important to avoid leaks. I just don’t know how to do it and what tool to use. Thanks!
Thanks for Your comment, I wish you patience while performing this job. It is not verry difficult, however time consuming. Do not rush on things, take time to do it all properly, to have the right timing and no oil leaks later on. 1- yes to lower subframe to remove oil pan 2-no need to remove transmission in this case. 3- yes the pin hole is next to starter on the engine block side, not the transmission. See the video where you initially set the camshafte in just about right position, the. Go underneath the car and see where you are on the flywheel. The flywheel has a plate on the side when you are just about right this plate size visually will match the check slot. See the video I have showed it. After you will remove oil pan, then you will be able visually see the right slot on the flywheel and while inserting locking pin you might need to turn the engine one or the other way . I prefere to do it this way, as then I am sure that I have locked engine in the TDC and the timing set later will be correct. Some mechanicks insert the locking pin by the feeling without visually checking. You will see the flywheel has a lot of slots and it is easy to miss the right one.
4- to tight the wibration damper i locked the flywheel underneath the car with crawbar 😃, asked a friend to assist and hold it while I tighted the bolt down. 5-yes, this is verry important to have the injector holes spotless. I use long enough flat screwdriver, wrap a rag around the screwdriver insert it in the hole and turn the screwdriver. Rag will pick up all debries and dirt. Do it as many times necessary to have the holes clean.
I own a bmw 3 series with 490k km. Never ever missed a start! If I do a compression test at its age... and is still ok, what else would you recommend to replace on this ocassion - replacement of timing chain. Last question please, what make would you recommend for timing chain kit? And by the way 😊😊😊 YOU ARE A BRILLIANT TEACHER EXPLAINING THE PROCESS!!! HUGE THANK YOU.
I would recommend febi bilstein timing chain kit. It contains IWIS timing chains and guides, which is the manufacturer of the Original BMW timing chain kit, but way cheaper.
@@MmetalbikesS i find out from other sources (bmw forums) that of course IWIS is the main supplier of bmw timing chain. but I do not think is the same with febi.. I like febi biltein: all suspenssion on my car is made by them. Standard I installed.. Now the BMW dealer was offering for 480 instead of 560 the whole kit! I means, 2 genuine sprockets.. everything they change when timing chain is done by them! Being an old engine probably dust is covering on their shelves.. being a REDUTABILE ENGINE is worse for sale parts.. BUT I am convince that the pollution is less because I am changing parts, fixing .. not keep buy cars, creating piles of rubbish.. and my car is driven very much between cities, less in the city itself!
Hi! Very nice video. I own a BMW E46 M47D20TU and I would like to do the timing chain myself. Do you know if this engine has an oil pump chain as well? I found a reference that it has gears instead, but I am not sure. Thank you in advance!
You can check that on oem parts catalogue online. Just make sure You select the right engine type. Good luck in replacing the chains, that is an interesting jet chalanging job👍
You need to lock the tensioners to free the chains. When the chain is released then you can replace the chains, guides. If tensioner is not locked it is impossible to do the replacement. 🫡
Hi! Very nice video! I have a question for you, do you have OEM number for the tools you have used? (Extractor, camshaft locker, ect..) thank you very much, greatings from Italy! 😊
Hi, thanks for the comment. I have bought the timing chain replacement tool kit on ebay. Just type in search the engine type, like m47n2, timing tool kit and you can choose the one fits your engine. Good luck in repairs, just be patient when performing the job, do it clean with no rush🙏 wishing a smooth run of your bmw👍
a lot of work, how much for the parts alone? i just changed the timing belt, water pump and tensioner on my car (french car) in just 2 hours,total parts cost 82 euros; good for another 150000 kms.
Yes indeed, this job takes time and some spending to have reliable parts to last. In this video I want to show tips and tricks, to those guys out there, who are planning to do the job on their own, so it can be done properly. We have chosen to love and hate these cars the same time, and we can justify the spending and time necessary to have them in good shape to enjoy the ride. Parts prices as well as the labour cost varies from country to country, but one thing is clear, it costs slightly more than You have spent on Your car 😀
Hi, did your idle speed changed after this replacement ? At what speed does your engine idle now ? I have a low idle issue on my 2002 320d (700rpm) which cause some vibrations and the red oil light to turn on when idling warm... Some people suggested that this might come from a loose / damaged timing chain since it is linked to the oil pump and camshaft. What do you think ? Great video, thank you !
Hi, the idle speed did not changed before and after the chain replacement. It idles at around 850rpm. You need to avoid running engine on so low 700 rpm, this means at that speed oil pump is turning too slow to supply enough oil to lubricate the critical engine parts. Low oil pressure can cause serious engine damage. Rough or low idle can come from air leaks. This can be checked by performing smoke test. Also if there is an air leak, the fuel consumption will be grater than normal, and also the car can feel low power when accelerating hard. Check some basic things before replacing chain. Also before replacing chain, some decent workshops can measure by how much the chain have stretched and is it critical to replace or not. Hope it helps, good luck in dealing with the issue
Hello! A friend of mine got an E46 320d with a VP44 High Pressure pump on the N47 engine. Problem is: cranks but no start, it gets diesel to the rail, it only starts starting fluid, it sat for months repeteadly, with multiple attempts to start it in beetween with some succes, but if it sits for like a few weeks, you can crank all day, tow start it, and won't start.. I'm plugging in my BMW OBD scanner this weekend..
Have a look on this vedeo: ua-cam.com/video/ujmM3DY3gyg/v-deo.htmlsi=u7LmRfnK43wGWke6. I know this is jeep, but the problem You described has same symptoms. Worth looking into fuel pressure regulator on your e46. They can be tested on a test bench for proper function. Good luck in getting it back on the road 💪
Thank you for this excelent, step by step tutorial. I only have one comment to make: I did not get the part when you "reset" the timing because the chain is streched. I mean I understand that but how do you reset the timing when everything is locked?
Thanks for Your comment. That is my bad that I did not showed this important part. To set the timing right You need to use same tool I checked the timing before I dissasambled everything. When you have replaced the chains, and the fly wheel is locked, release the cam shaft sprocket tightening bolts, but just release do not remove, afterwards place the timing tool over the camshafts and make sure the tool sits flash on both sides on both camshafts. Then you are good to tight the sprocket bolts 👍 hope I managed to explain well. Good luck in replacing the chains 🙏
Thanks for your comment, yes I always use copper grease on the elements where there is a heat and soot. Later on You will be able to remove these parts easily👍 this also applies to glow plugs.
@@rikard11000 that is quite some distance away. The pricing for the spares approx 500 euro, can be more depending on spare part prices, as everything gets more expensive by day. Your engine is slightly diferent from M47. As well as the replacement, labour another 500 euro.
It will depend on the labor costs depending where you are located. Spare parts roughly 4 to 5 hundred depends on what manufacturer you will choose, I do recomend to buy good quality. Labour costs is another 4 to 5 hundred euros where I am located. The prices are only rough, you need to ask your local workshop.
@@alexutzurulzz I cant promote any manufacturer, the local spare parts dealer can advice you on the best quality spares for this job. My advice is do not save on cheap parts because this can cost you a lot more if the drive chai snaps soon after repair. You need to find a workshop who has experience in timing chain replacement, including special tools required for the job. Good luck, this is not a extraordinary job, just be careful and it will work well👍
Na e87, m47 motor, 90kw, problem je velika potrosnja ulja, turbo je remontovan, nema curenja ulja na motoru, motor je suv. Sta je problem, molim za pomoc.
razloga može biti više, a najlakši i najjeftiniji je provjeriti ventilaciju kartera. Puši li motor plavi dim? tada zaptivke ventila mogu biti jako istrošene. Ako je sve gore provjereno i u redu, onda treba uraditi probu pritiska svakog cilindra, jer na nekom cilindru mogu biti zaglavljeni/polomljeni klipni prstenovi. U svakom slučaju, možete se obratiti lokalnoj radionici, oni će znati bolje jer mogu vidjeti auto i dijagnosticirati problem. nije mi lako da to uradim. Sretno
You can see where the blocking pin is inserted in the engine blockand where it is inserted in the fly wheel in the part where I am underneath the car. I have showed where is the correct slot to insert it in order to not to mess up the timing. You are right I jave not showed where is the opening in the engine block. This you can find next to starter, it is difficult to get to but you will not miss it. There is only one opening, normally plugged with plastic plug. I am not professional car mechanis myself, if I could do it You van do it too👍
A friend of mine brought me an X3 with the m47 that was burning oil and water badly, another mechanic dismantled it and put all the parts in the back, then never finished it, and came to me. This video really helps where each part goes, thanks!
Thanks for your coment🙏 I am verry happy to help people on solving their issues without beign ripped in different workshops. Happy that this video helped you to solve your issue 👍 🤝
Very well explained, thank you for your time!
Thank you for Your comment, 👍
For owners that are here about this engine. this is the last cast iron engine comming out of factory.. which probably will last forever. I used 5W40 from 250k km TWO makes of oil, Mobil 1 for a while, then a switch to Shell Pure Plus. oil change 15k km. If you drive decently in revs early in the morning and let it run for 1 minute or 2 before you drive in the morning... it will oulast any other engine!!!!!!
As a plus I used (and still using of course!) 2 Stroke oil (FB category for non-DPF model), and this formula looks after HP pump and injectors, big time! 250 ml/50 litres of diesel.
....Have I told you that 2 injectors "failed" with a loud BANG in one early moning while driving? Tested them all with return flow; 2 of them were pissing a lot of fuel (2 of them) ...send them to specialist Bosch testing and repair center. Got tested on the bench ------ got a phone call from them ----- my injectors passed all the bench tests. they were the original one factory fitted, at that moment lasted 480k km!!!! NO SIGN OF FAILURE except that BANG in the mornig... but the engine carried running... even after that.
And I put all this on the use of 2 Stroke Oil. It is NOT a kind of placebo; is definiitely not for me!! This is a real fact.
Off course I told them to rebuild those injectors (cost 300 pounds for 2) because they were the worst on my poor little return flow test..
I hope this helps other to consider this workable prevention.
A, before a leave.. the intake manifold it was clogged up with gunk, deposits at 250k km when I bought the car.
!!. After extensively using 2 Stroke oil formula, NO DEPOSITS on intake manifold! Checked twice; nothing to clean! Have I told you it has the genuine EGR and swirl flaps at almost HALF MILLION KILOMETERS? Yes it does! ?..how much it cost an EGR? A lot..
I wish you all well and I might inspire a few with my experience; real, genuine, no BS.
Hello!
What are you mean "loud BANG"? Why do you use 5w-40? 5w-30 is fitted for this engine C3 Castrol Edge. What kind/brand of 2Stroke oil have you using? Thanks!
@@istvanbognar5453 well lets agree over something - no injectors live forever! 😉 Then there is and won't be a better description of what I said... a loud bang is similar with a big hammer like a kilogram heavy hitting a large 0.5 to 1cm thick piece of metal on the pavement; it was that kind of noise; and only once ...being hit.. or similar noise when same hammer hit a empty metal barrel, once, again. You got the idea. Why? Probably because the car most of the time has been driven moderatly on acceleration, not often with harsh acceleration and brake of speed.. so the engine being slowly accelerated everything else has kind of time to happen around the injectors including A RETURN FLOW process, which i noticed last time when I fitted the "new" actually well rebuild x2 injectors that I put back on the engine. Prior to that I did another return flow on all injectors - 2 off ebay, 2 as old as the ones sent for rebuild to Bosch representative!
Well, now according to the last test when 2 where massively leaking back fuel and sent for rebuild, the ones that were in use atthe present moment under test where leaking kind of 3 more (almost the same) and one a quite a bit less.. (so this is a second test after I first touched the injectors with the incident of bang..).
So now, after replacing the really old ones with the refurbished (and tested again) for return flow - THREE WERE LEAKING LESS (I mean normal!) than one (this one off ebay).
So the injectors were registered in DDE as well after every change for better injectors.. I hope this is now much clearer.
@@istvanbognar5453 So, I think, this happend to me specifically because the car was driven moderately a lot of time, and trying to put everything back together, in my mind, one "strange" thing I noticed on the engine, when I was testing for return flow , was that on the hose that is connected to the return to send back the fuel (return of diesel by itself flowing, I imagined..) ACTUALLY there is a bit of pressure, I MEAN REAL FLOW of fuel COMMING TOWARDS THE INJECTORS from the back! So now I am thinking that the "flow back" expression is real because of this flow I notice! so there at the injectors, there is a forward flow, from high pressure ramp, via switching part of the injectors.. but a pressure from some pump.. (high pressure pump returning fuel not needed for high pressure..?) that actually can fload the injectors from opposite direction, hence kind of detonation when 2 piston could get fuel and detonate at the same time.../ just to add an idea - the BANG was manifested with a sudden (brief) stop of the car, engine.. but then, fraction of a second later IT KEPT GOING, running.
you see, when you do the return flow test, peoples blocked, or locked the return flow from from the injectors back to fuel tank. Me, I haven't blocked/locked that hose, wanted to watch and aknowledge everything. There is many, many more time return flow of the diesel, "back" (actually towards the return of the injectors!) than from the injectors themselves!!! So, I believe that is the case of return flow!
the error code on Carly or ISTA+ is the same: internal ECU16 / internal control unit 16 / DDE control unit. Code: 4293 (clear as mud..)
@@istvanbognar5453 wrong. BMW is using Shell as their oil supplier for a little whle (couple of years) More specific, Shell pure plus technology. I am using that oil for about 150k miles. over 200k km. AND 5w30 was used for FIRTS 250k miles. Do not tell me that there is no wear out in ICE engine after 200k miles or 300k miles, equivalent to 400k km or 500k km...!
Do you understand a bit how an engine work or you just ask? If you nevere repaired anything to the engine then let's not argue. 🙂😉
M47 engine need Castrol C3. Shell is a newer Engine need. Anyway why wrote Castrol sign on the Oil filling Cap? Just a decoration? Iam not thinking that...@@MrFryfish
Muchas gracias. Me ha sido de gran ayuda.
de nada. Me alegra que este vídeo te haya ayudado
Good job man and thank you for the tips 💪💪
Amazing video
Thanks for your comment👍 hope it helps 🫡
Thank you for this very helpful video. I am planning to change my chains soon too on my 2006 BMW 320d with manual transmission. It has 410.000km and I suspect the chains have never been replaced. (There is no mention of it in the service booklet which seems to be complete for all maintenance and repairs). Some questions I hope you can help with:
1. Why did you loosen the 2 engine mounts? Is that needed to lower the subframe?
2. In a pro Haynes service instruction (which is way to superficial in my view) it says the transmission must be removed. I have not seen this in your video nor in any other instruction. I guess it’s not needed.
3. I am also struggling to find the proper way to lock the engine. I saw in another comment the pinhole is located close to the starter. Is it in the transmission housing? And I assume you rotate the crankshaft close to the TDC by visually checking (by placing a rod in cilinder 1?) and next try to insert the pin? To lock the pin in the hole the flywheel must be aligned very precisely. Seems quite difficult for just 1 person. Or is there a smart way to do this? Additional info on this locking is highly appreciated.
4. How did you torque the crankshaft pulley to the right torque (100Nm and 150 degrees). Did you use a special pulley blocking tool?
5. Did you clean the housing of the injectors, especially the surface where the copper ring meets the engine block, somehow before putting the injectors back? I read somewhere else that this is quite important to avoid leaks. I just don’t know how to do it and what tool to use.
Thanks!
Thanks for Your comment, I wish you patience while performing this job. It is not verry difficult, however time consuming. Do not rush on things, take time to do it all properly, to have the right timing and no oil leaks later on.
1- yes to lower subframe to remove oil pan
2-no need to remove transmission in this case.
3- yes the pin hole is next to starter on the engine block side, not the transmission. See the video where you initially set the camshafte in just about right position, the. Go underneath the car and see where you are on the flywheel. The flywheel has a plate on the side when you are just about right this plate size visually will match the check slot. See the video I have showed it. After you will remove oil pan, then you will be able visually see the right slot on the flywheel and while inserting locking pin you might need to turn the engine one or the other way . I prefere to do it this way, as then I am sure that I have locked engine in the TDC and the timing set later will be correct. Some mechanicks insert the locking pin by the feeling without visually checking. You will see the flywheel has a lot of slots and it is easy to miss the right one.
4- to tight the wibration damper i locked the flywheel underneath the car with crawbar 😃, asked a friend to assist and hold it while I tighted the bolt down.
5-yes, this is verry important to have the injector holes spotless. I use long enough flat screwdriver, wrap a rag around the screwdriver insert it in the hole and turn the screwdriver. Rag will pick up all debries and dirt. Do it as many times necessary to have the holes clean.
I own a bmw 3 series with 490k km. Never ever missed a start! If I do a compression test at its age... and is still ok, what else would you recommend to replace on this ocassion - replacement of timing chain. Last question please, what make would you recommend for timing chain kit? And by the way 😊😊😊 YOU ARE A BRILLIANT TEACHER EXPLAINING THE PROCESS!!! HUGE THANK YOU.
I would recommend febi bilstein timing chain kit. It contains IWIS timing chains and guides, which is the manufacturer of the Original BMW timing chain kit, but way cheaper.
Go for good brand timing chain and spares. This is a big job to save on cheap and unreliable parts. I used swag. 👍
@@MmetalbikesS i find out from other sources (bmw forums) that of course IWIS is the main supplier of bmw timing chain. but I do not think is the same with febi.. I like febi biltein: all suspenssion on my car is made by them. Standard I installed.. Now the BMW dealer was offering for 480 instead of 560 the whole kit! I means, 2 genuine sprockets.. everything they change when timing chain is done by them! Being an old engine probably dust is covering on their shelves.. being a REDUTABILE ENGINE is worse for sale parts.. BUT I am convince that the pollution is less because I am changing parts, fixing .. not keep buy cars, creating piles of rubbish.. and my car is driven very much between cities, less in the city itself!
Hi! Very nice video. I own a BMW E46 M47D20TU and I would like to do the timing chain myself. Do you know if this engine has an oil pump chain as well? I found a reference that it has gears instead, but I am not sure. Thank you in advance!
You can check that on oem parts catalogue online. Just make sure You select the right engine type. Good luck in replacing the chains, that is an interesting jet chalanging job👍
By the way great job sir 😇 but still stuck/confused on that part of locking tensioner with pins, like the reason for it?
You need to lock the tensioners to free the chains. When the chain is released then you can replace the chains, guides. If tensioner is not locked it is impossible to do the replacement. 🫡
that is just amazing bro fairplay to you i enjoyed every second of that content stunning work bro new sub from me stunning 👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌
Thanks for that great comment👍
@@MrFixit-vw8kc you are welcome
Hi! Very nice video! I have a question for you, do you have OEM number for the tools you have used? (Extractor, camshaft locker, ect..) thank you very much, greatings from Italy! 😊
Hi, thanks for the comment. I have bought the timing chain replacement tool kit on ebay. Just type in search the engine type, like m47n2, timing tool kit and you can choose the one fits your engine. Good luck in repairs, just be patient when performing the job, do it clean with no rush🙏 wishing a smooth run of your bmw👍
@@MrFixit-vw8kc thank you my friend! 🤙🏻
to obtain more space, I remove the fan aswell
a lot of work, how much for the parts alone?
i just changed the timing belt, water pump and tensioner on my car (french car) in just 2 hours,total parts cost 82 euros; good for another 150000 kms.
Yes indeed, this job takes time and some spending to have reliable parts to last. In this video I want to show tips and tricks, to those guys out there, who are planning to do the job on their own, so it can be done properly. We have chosen to love and hate these cars the same time, and we can justify the spending and time necessary to have them in good shape to enjoy the ride. Parts prices as well as the labour cost varies from country to country, but one thing is clear, it costs slightly more than You have spent on Your car 😀
Hi, did your idle speed changed after this replacement ? At what speed does your engine idle now ?
I have a low idle issue on my 2002 320d (700rpm) which cause some vibrations and the red oil light to turn on when idling warm... Some people suggested that this might come from a loose / damaged timing chain since it is linked to the oil pump and camshaft. What do you think ?
Great video, thank you !
Hi, the idle speed did not changed before and after the chain replacement. It idles at around 850rpm. You need to avoid running engine on so low 700 rpm, this means at that speed oil pump is turning too slow to supply enough oil to lubricate the critical engine parts. Low oil pressure can cause serious engine damage. Rough or low idle can come from air leaks. This can be checked by performing smoke test. Also if there is an air leak, the fuel consumption will be grater than normal, and also the car can feel low power when accelerating hard. Check some basic things before replacing chain. Also before replacing chain, some decent workshops can measure by how much the chain have stretched and is it critical to replace or not. Hope it helps, good luck in dealing with the issue
Thank you for answering
No power or consumption issue but there might be an air leak so I'll check that (high whistling sound when accelerating).
Hello! A friend of mine got an E46 320d with a VP44 High Pressure pump on the N47 engine. Problem is: cranks but no start, it gets diesel to the rail, it only starts starting fluid, it sat for months repeteadly, with multiple attempts to start it in beetween with some succes, but if it sits for like a few weeks, you can crank all day, tow start it, and won't start.. I'm plugging in my BMW OBD scanner this weekend..
Have a look on this vedeo: ua-cam.com/video/ujmM3DY3gyg/v-deo.htmlsi=u7LmRfnK43wGWke6. I know this is jeep, but the problem You described has same symptoms. Worth looking into fuel pressure regulator on your e46. They can be tested on a test bench for proper function. Good luck in getting it back on the road 💪
Thank you for this excelent, step by step tutorial. I only have one comment to make: I did not get the part when you "reset" the timing because the chain is streched. I mean I understand that but how do you reset the timing when everything is locked?
Thanks for Your comment. That is my bad that I did not showed this important part. To set the timing right You need to use same tool I checked the timing before I dissasambled everything. When you have replaced the chains, and the fly wheel is locked, release the cam shaft sprocket tightening bolts, but just release do not remove, afterwards place the timing tool over the camshafts and make sure the tool sits flash on both sides on both camshafts. Then you are good to tight the sprocket bolts 👍 hope I managed to explain well. Good luck in replacing the chains 🙏
@@MrFixit-vw8kc Ohh WOW! That's easy. Thank you again Mr. Fix It :)
Please use a Bluetooth driven collar-mic for better hearing for spectators....anyways good information ❤
Thanks for the advice👍
Nice video!
Is it ok to use copper grease, the one you use on injectors, also on glow plugs?
Thanks for your comment, yes I always use copper grease on the elements where there is a heat and soot. Later on You will be able to remove these parts easily👍 this also applies to glow plugs.
Paldies par informaciju… 0:18
Ņem par labu 👍
What milage did this engine? One tip: use 5w40! We have a m57n2 with 480.000. first turbocharger, first timing chain….
This engine did 250K.
Thanks for the tip to use 5w40, oil 👍
0w40 500 000km origine
@@olivierbitume6278 5w30 DPF oil A3/C3 BMW LL04, 390.000km , all factory parts
Nice! How much will it cost if you change the chain in my 320 D -2011?
Hi, your engine type must be N47. I am located in Latvia, not sure where You are from?
@@MrFixit-vw8kc I have a N47. Living in south of Sweden.
@@rikard11000 that is quite some distance away. The pricing for the spares approx 500 euro, can be more depending on spare part prices, as everything gets more expensive by day. Your engine is slightly diferent from M47. As well as the replacement, labour another 500 euro.
Oki. Thats cheaper than here in Sweden anyway..
Hello, do you know where I can find the torque specifications for the bolts you tightened?
Hi. Try: workshop-manuals.com>bmw. Look for engiine type and specific bolts you what to torque. I am checking all torques there.
Hi, don't you have to stall your injection pumps?
Hi, no you don’t need to lock the fuel pump, as this is common rail fuel system 🫡
How long did it take you to finish it?
It took me 2 days from start to finish, and I am not professional car mechanic.
I think i've mister something. Why you have to remove the oil pan?
Oil pan is removed in order to have easier removal and installation of timing chain front cover. You can try without removing the oil pan.
@@MrFixit-vw8kc thank you. Really good video
Is the timing chain not supposed to be on the back of these engines??
M47 engine timing chain is located at the front. Newer N47 engines have timing chain on the back of the engine
@@MrFixit-vw8kc OK, got it. Thanks you
How much it cost and timing chain replacement for an N47 (118d from 2010) engine?
It will depend on the labor costs depending where you are located. Spare parts roughly 4 to 5 hundred depends on what manufacturer you will choose, I do recomend to buy good quality. Labour costs is another 4 to 5 hundred euros where I am located. The prices are only rough, you need to ask your local workshop.
@@MrFixit-vw8kc I will be interested to do it in your area. Can you give me more details about it and if FAI it's a good brand quality, please?
@@alexutzurulzz I cant promote any manufacturer, the local spare parts dealer can advice you on the best quality spares for this job. My advice is do not save on cheap parts because this can cost you a lot more if the drive chai snaps soon after repair. You need to find a workshop who has experience in timing chain replacement, including special tools required for the job. Good luck, this is not a extraordinary job, just be careful and it will work well👍
How long did it take you to do this?
It took me 2 days from start to finish, and I am not professional car mechanic.
Sveiki, vai šis darbs tika veikts klientam? Iespējams vēlētos pieteikties uz šo pašu apkopi, šādam pašam auto.
Sveiks. Zvani 29773084 sarunāsim
Na e87, m47 motor, 90kw, problem je velika potrosnja ulja, turbo je remontovan, nema curenja ulja na motoru, motor je suv. Sta je problem, molim za pomoc.
razloga može biti više, a najlakši i najjeftiniji je provjeriti ventilaciju kartera. Puši li motor plavi dim? tada zaptivke ventila mogu biti jako istrošene. Ako je sve gore provjereno i u redu, onda treba uraditi probu pritiska svakog cilindra, jer na nekom cilindru mogu biti zaglavljeni/polomljeni klipni prstenovi. U svakom slučaju, možete se obratiti lokalnoj radionici, oni će znati bolje jer mogu vidjeti auto i dijagnosticirati problem. nije mi lako da to uradim. Sretno
@@MrFixit-vw8kc hvala na informacijama
you worked very simple, some struggle more. I didn't see how you used the blocking kit. you skipped the most important part for us beginners.
You can see where the blocking pin is inserted in the engine blockand where it is inserted in the fly wheel in the part where I am underneath the car. I have showed where is the correct slot to insert it in order to not to mess up the timing. You are right I jave not showed where is the opening in the engine block. This you can find next to starter, it is difficult to get to but you will not miss it. There is only one opening, normally plugged with plastic plug. I am not professional car mechanis myself, if I could do it You van do it too👍
LVLVLV
Tieši tā 💪
20:48 ar cik NM pievilki tās skrūves? @@MrFixit-vw8kc