Is Ford to Blame for This Blown Ecoboost? - Teardown Final Report
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2023
- The third and final video is finally done about the teardown on this blown High Performance 2.3L Ecoboost engine. I am still shocked by the highly plausible cause of this engine's failure.
Will Ford do what's right, or have they lost all respect for the people who keep them in business...
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#teammishi - Авто та транспорт
Man, I’m on your side I’ve been there before. I’ll give you a word of advice from someone that has been modifying cars for 20 years. Try to keep all your factory parts especially if it’s just bolt ons,and if that baby scatters haul it to your place and put all the factory parts back on it before you take it to the dealer, you’ll be a lot of time and aggravation ahead. Good luck and I hope Ford does the right thing.
It's so frustrating. But lessons have been learned! Hopefully I will never repeat this mistake again.
No joke, you are my favorite Channel brother. Every since you’re motor blew I’ve been anticipating the next episode. Keep up the good fight my friend! 💯
That's so awesome to hear! I'm glad you enjoy my content. 😊 It means a lot!
I just saw your 3 video coverage on the issue. Very helpful for me, as I have the same car. Something that stuck out to me, was how cylinder 3 was stuck in the "up" position, upon it's reveal. Maybe this, and the stuck gear in the balancer mechanism attached to cylinder 3 was the culprit of the failure.
You just gained a subscriber and id take this to your local media. Ford owes you an engine. They expected you to pay up. Not tear it apart and actually figure out the issue. Let alone document it.
Had you needed to add coolant in the past few months? It can be common to see the central cylinders in an engine to look different than the outers based on air flow through the intake manifold regarding air velocity and the pcv system. You have the modernized block that ford put out to remedy the common 2.0/2.3 water intrusion issues. You would normally see staining on the metal on the block where the gasket was sealed if it had been leaking, I didn't notice any in your shots. The gasket itself looks really great actually. Not saying its not coolant related, but my money isn't on that. I'm waiting for the day when my 2015 2.3 needs a new HG and studs.
I keep editing this comment and adding more. Something to consider with these engines and coolant intrusion. At least on the earlier ecoboost blocks with the slits between the cylinders, the intrusion usually happened when the engine was off. While you're driving down the road, the pressure in the cylinders is way higher than coolant system pressure, typically causing if anything for exhaust gases to go into the coolant system. When you shut the engine off and there is no pressure in the cylinder, the residual coolant pressure is then allowed to leak into the system. Thats why eco owners with coolant intrusion typically notice an intermittent cold start misfire. It's because its cooking off the water in the cylinder, then starts running normally. That's what my wife's 2017 edge did exactly (I was the guy on reddit that said I got dragged for replacing the HG on that car).
I wonder if you had a valve hang open and hit the piston. Can't tell really from the video. ALso, I'm curious if those cracks you're seeing on the block are actually cracks, or casting marks. A machine shop will be able to tell you.
What are you thinking for what you're going to put back in it?
Good Luck!
I'm not 100 percent positive it's due to coolant intrusion, but it's the most likely theory I have after pulling everything a part. It's definitely more likely than the theories I was being blamed for when it initially happened; detonation, running lean due to no tune. I'm not sure if want to get the head cleaned up and get a regular 2.3L short block from a salvage vehicle, or find a way to get a built 2.0 based short block that I know will hold up better. It's honestly about the cost at this point. I haven't decided which way to go yet.
@KarzKreated
ua-cam.com/video/xmrtgLKxINU/v-deo.html
I've saved this in case my ecoboost goes ecoboom. Maybe these guys can be of help to you.
@@Mutilated831 I watched that same video a few times myself. I'll keep them in mind. I was considering contacting Engineering Motorsports to see if they could help in any way. Their babubu short block seems to be the most popular and vetted choice.
@KarzKreated Nice, I'm definitely interested in seeing what's to come.
I just watched all the videos from the lucas additive until here!!! What a trip man!!!! You definitely kept me hooked in youtube for couple hrs!!! Im am following now, I see alot of potential here!!! Keep up the good work! And good luck !!! ❤
Excellent work and excellent video, you put in some serious effort, this will all be worth it.
I sure do hope so!
Wow! What a mess! Your probably right about the cause of failure... I've had my concerns about the direct injection motors and the integrated head/manifolds design, thinking perhaps cylinders 2 and 3 are getting more airflow than 1 and 4, but at the same time, all 4 cylinders getting equal fuel...?
Looks like your motor has been beating itself to death for quite some time!!
A mess indeed!
Did you read the plugs? It's fairly common on cars with the turbo manifold integrated into the head for the EGT's to be significantly higher on cylinders closest to the turbo (by design) obviously the #3 plug is ruined, but you should be able to see a difference in the timing marks on the strap on #2 compared to #1 & #4 if #2 looks advanced then it's probably high EGT causing preignition (and a broken ring land on #3) if the #2 sparkplug timing mark looks later than #1 & #4 the you could be looking at the water cooling effect, a hydro lock and a still broken ringland on #3
and lastly you can drill out the rivets on the MLS head gasket and look between the layers, if boost was starting to lift the head it doesn't necessarily have to leak between the Head/Gasket or the Block/Gasket it can leak between the layers of the gasket (Very rare but it can happen) Good luck with Ford I was the Second owner of a 6.0L Powerstroke in the past
With the rod being that bent, that explains the cracks in the blocks
carbon/oil in coolant is normal… in bad sealed engines. Ford dealerships will refuse warranty work until Ford forces them to respect the contract the dealerships have with manufacturers about warranty work. They get paid a lot less than they steal from out of warranty work. $179 for a consumption test is ridiculous. Basic oil change and note some measurements.
I own a mustang ecoboom I sympathize with u
It isn't fun
Is there an active class action related to ecoboost head gasket issue?
Yes but it applies to the regular 2.3L block that has the coolant passages cut between the cylinders. My Mustang had the Focus RS version of the 2.3L which doesn't have those coolant passages.
off topic but why does 4 cyl petrol need a balancing shaft? to run smooth on diesel?
Rings butting up together will pull the tops off of a piston. Or if the 2nd comp ring buts together it will break the ring land.
thats fucking insane man. i hope they will cover you. interesting about the coolant resovoir ive seen that so many times and always wondered how shit got in there lol. keep up the hard work
Never seen anything like it! I honestly don't see Ford upholding the warranty. There's something going on with Ford at the moment and it isn't good. My sister just informed me that there is a class action lawsuit against Ford and the 10R80 transmission for faulty manufacturering. Guess who's car is affected? You got it! The blue one in the video without an Engine. This is such a nightmare...
@KarzKreated wow that's even more fucked. I feel like most cars now a days are just built shit. It's not the manufacturer building the specific parts them selves they just 3rd partying everything
You're not wrong. And most time they choose who can do it cheaper, rather than better. That logic has bit Ford in the behind many times. A great recent example is the hard tops for the Bronco. Really is sad to see.
I expected you to have a bad block when it cracked it changed the engine dynamics
Just letting you know on my 2018 EcoBoost performance pack it has the orange coolant in it I changed the orange out for the yellow or the kind of greenish because the orange to be corrosive and cause cylinder leaks that's why Ford change the coolant my car as of this post only has 7,500 miles on it I change the coolant out when it had 5,000 miles on it to the new stuff the new stuff is supposed to be compatible to the orange I drained out as much as I could and put 6 quarts of the yellow coolant back in which I think the system only has 9 quarts total just a word of thought they knew something😊 there are a few UA-cam videos telling you
Oh jeez. Yeah I heard of a newer style coolant but I didn't expect the old orange coolant to be a problem. You do have a point there.
@@KarzKreated there's a Ford Master Mechanic on UA-cam that brought it up and explained it and all Ford EcoBoost Motors the old coolant would go five years or 100,000 miles I think it was the new coolant can go 10 years 150,000 miles but he says don't go that long if it is meant to go 5 years it sounds like the new coolant the yellow has better properties in it I noticed my motor runs a little cooler like 10 to 15 degrees with the new coolant instead of the old Orange
Well that's good to know. I'll have to refill the entire cooling system anyway. Where did you get yours and how much was it?
Part number VC13DLG eBay
Got it! 🙂
Thats your problem😂 i delivery functional that gasket is just a failure is like you said what a pain in the ass😂😂😂😂
Might as well do an Ecotec swap 🤣
😂 Nah I'm not gonna swap one unreliable engine for another... I'll throw in a turbocharged 3800 V6. It will be the swap of the century!
LS swap
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but a Turbosmart IWG-75 on your turbo is a clear indicator to Ford that you’ve tuned the car, and they have no obligation to fix it. Cylinders 2&3 are clean, because you created a condition with excessive back pressure, lifted the head, and introduced water, and that will clean those pistons nicely. There are more technical details that go into describing what you did, but it’s not difficult to tell the destruction is user error. Not to blame, it’s just a lack of knowledge, as to why you and thousands of others share this common mishap. It can occur on a completely stock engine if the wastegate hangs. End result is excessive back-pressure = boom. Using a tougher block is not a solution for a bad engine condition.
I've eventually learned everything you're saying. I've come to the conclusion that the cylinder head is the Achilles heal for this platform. With that said, exhaust reversion should never happen near factory boost levels. The car was not tuned. It was only running a couple psi more than stock via a boostmax and that WG actuator. Boost spikes at 26 psi max and 22 to 24 sustained should not create enough back pressure to cause an issue from exhaust reversion. So my displeasure with Ford and the entire incident is that it doesn't make any sense on the true cause of failure. It was my fault for playing with fire.
@@KarzKreated “Should not,” and “Did” are make a big difference. I have a 2020 HPP that’s see competition for several years on a stock long block, make 430 RWHP. It was tuned from the very beginning, to be sure we weren’t stepping into dangerous territory. Unfortunately for you, your car should have been tuned properly from the beginning of modification, and wasn’t. You might think a boostmax and IWG 75 shouldn’t cause a problem with zero tuning, but you absolutely do not know, if you’re not data logging, and it’s obvious from the damage, who’s fault it is. I know several others who’ve had zero problems with theirs as well, but they also went the NX2 route, (lowers back pressure) with proper tuning and data logging. I hate that you experienced such a catastrophic failure, but there’s no doubt it was entirely your doing. That’s ok though, we’ve all made our fair share of mistakes and experienced failures. Many think the HO block should be strong enough to survive higher horsepower, and it does, but detonation and cylinder pressure severe enough to lift a cylinder head, split a piston, not happening. Sorry you had the problems, but you’ll get it right if you’ll just start keeping track of pre-turbine exhaust pressure vs intake pressure. Buy a simple data system or a dual pressure gauge with two 0-100 psi sensors, drill/tap/plumb and see. If you like, I can show you how to plumb it with cooling coil and filter so you get a good pressure reading and don’t melt the sensor guts. Good videos on teardown, but you really didn’t have a way of knowing exactly what you were looking at. If you’ve still got the parts, do yourself a favor and those who are keeping up, a favor. Reexamine the damage knowing it was created by exhaust reversion in the 2/3 port, detonation, and subsequent chain of events that lifted head, split piston, etc. you should see head bolt impressions in shouldered area where it secures. That’ll tell you if head lifted, which it likely did.
If you are going to show a close-up of something, (i.e. @9:20), you REALLY need to get the camera to focus on that thing, and also, leave it there for more than a second; holding it STILL, for someone to analyze properly. This also makes for a MUCH better viewing experience for us, your viewers. Buy a new camera if you have to.
Off topic some what ...The same problem seems to be somewhat true for the Hyundai/Kia situation ...You have probably seen this already but.....ua-cam.com/video/IntkTBjEx5k/v-deo.html...Please Note piston #3 and the harmonic balancer ....
I disagree with you that head and block are Super Thrashed.
Yeah I eventually made that determination myself 😅