This video is how I found your channel a few years ago, still great to go back and reference when I need to. Haven't missed a video since then, awesome content.
A few years after you posted this video, I just wanted to drop you a thank you note. I have messed with my timing so much to get my old 69 Small Block Chevy to run right. My engine likes a lot of advanced timing, but it needs to be a lot less at start. This is a great solution. Tired of taking out the timing light, and goofing around with the damn thing each time I want to tune it.
It is a RS232 that most older laptops used, you can buy a USB to 232 adapter from just about anywhere. I ordered one from Amazon and it came with a CD with the driver. Awesome video, thank you for sharing this information.
RS232, yes, but a DB9, as opposed to a DB25 or some other specification (9 pins vs 25 pins). I do not know the gender needed (male or female), but USB to RS232-DB9 adapters are available. Google is your friend. (search on "usb to rs232 db9 adapter"). Perhaps Eric can let us see a photo of the DB9 end so we can see if it is pins or sockets on his adapter. Cool video. I have a nice MSD ignition system, using the 6AL control module. If the 6al-2 is plug and play replacement I do believe will want to get one. I already have a spare 6A module, which I replaced with the 6AL a while ago just to get the rev limiter feature.
Thanks Eric, i stuffed around trying to get mine to work, bought a serial port to usb adaptor, still no luck, found this vid, you mention the dics to make the adaptor work and i look in my adaptor pack and there's a disc 🤣 ran the disc, all working now 👍
Hi Eric, I'm running this 6AL-2 programmable box. The video is very informative. I like the idea of setting timing a few degrees higher on the balancer, which will allow you to move timing in the software curve. I never realized that. Thank you. Also agree with you, DYNO YOUR ENGINE.
It is a serial cable with a DB9 connector and you need a serial to USB adapter. You are right computers no longer have serial ports. Good videos. Cheers!
The MSD WILL work with manifold vacuum, this is very handy for road cars, by running a vac advance system you can run the engine cooler (well the exhaust really) and get better MPG. The cable is a 9 pin serial cable, its a pain in the ass! They should be using a USB connector in this day and age.
I run my timing through the sniper. I think the sniper is much more tunable. This is rpm based only whereas the sniper has a 31x31 table like the fuel table. The msd works great for racing when you're at full throttle but I like the sniper's ability to have a full timing curve at part throttle cruising in daily drivers as well. I set mine for max vacuum at idle and add timing with rpm and reduce timing as load increases. I simulated a vacuum advance and a centrifugal advance to have my timing all in by 2900rpms. I am interested in your dyno video.
Thanks for the videos. I have an old MSD timing box that you adjust with a screwdriver. I doubt they make it anymore. I've never used it. The one you have is going to work alot better.
Dang! I didn’t know 6al2 could do all that. Just got me a 5 liter mustang with one on it. Believe it was giving me trouble driving home, I had to pull over and let it cool off for 15 to 20 minutes then it was good for another 45 minutes or so. The box it’s self didn’t get hot. I need to fix the janky wiring job that was done on it first and probably move it in to the car before I rule it out.
My 6AL-2 fried and as usual didn't think about saving the spark table until after the data was no longer retrievable. I bought another one so now I have to program from scratch. I keep getting an error from my MSI laptop that there are no ports available. So I'm forced to use my wife's gateway laptop. So now I need to figure out what to set the timing for a 427 small block. I believe its running 10.5:1 compression. it's running a Howards cam 110275-10 Lift: .545 / .565, Duration @ .050: 241 / 247, Centerline: 106, Rough idle, Hot street & bracket racing. The engine was dynoed at 549hp. I'm trying to get a starting point to get the right timing. This cam has a recommended range from 2600 to 6400 rpm.
im having trouble finding a sweet spot with a 347 small block ford. i tried this set up and had to adjust to get it half decent started but still having trouble. any suggestions?
I've watched this video so many times and I'm still confused. I need to set an advance curve starting at 0 degrees at 1000rpm, rising steadily to about 5 degrees at 1500, 10 degrees at about 2000, 15 degrees at 3000, 22 degrees at 4000, and staying on that trajectory until 5500 where it flatlines at about 30. Static timing is 10 degrees. Can you offer any help, please?
@@WeingartnerRacing thanks for replying I’m going to send it in to be repaired because I have tired every thing I can possibly do and it’s not helping thanks for letting me know though
Drop Rpm is how much the ignition system will let the rpm drop before giving it ignition to go back to the limiter, ie,if you have a 8000rpm limit and a 1000rpm drop, it will hit 8000, drop to 7000 and kick back to 8000. If I am wrong at all please correct me. Have a good day!
What are the specs for cam you're running? I'm running the super sniper in a 383 with 259/275 at .050 . Your curve actually is pretty crisp in mine. Idle is a little higher than I needed.
I have the 6AL 2. Programmable. My old laptop. USB ports went out got another laptop. Loaded my MSD disc still have the DB9 connector. But now I can't. Down load any changes. Won't do anything when I plugged in the USB cable the computer make s the sound it sopose to. Recognizing the the plug connection. But I can't transfer any information. It's not even. Accepting a tach signal ? In told I have to download a driver. Not sure how to do that I didn't have to do that with my other laptop. I hat the 6al2 since 2005 this is the first time I have had this issue
i bought a DB9 connector and there was no driver for it available so the ignition unit was not being recognized by the PC. I had the same issue as you.. I went to a computer shop and purchased DB9 connector with an installation disc AUS$ 30 .. loaded it onto the PC and now all good and can transfer and save from the 6al2
We down loaded the driver. I am able to change the settings but the laptop is not registering at all when the engine is running. Might end up going to a computer shop. To see if they can address the problem
I have watch a lot of video on just this "How to" on the software. Finally, Eric here has explained the software very well. However, I would like to confirm my thoughts. Since this software will ONLY take timing away (retard), *I now must set my base (physically) timing @ the top of what I want or need. 35 degree for my application.* Start my curve from there. I hope I am understanding this correct. Thanks for sharing Eric!!
This one doesnt look like it has the 3d timing map like the grid, sniper system and daytona sensors etc.... do you miss anything about that feature when setting timing with this one..? Or for all intents and purposes, is that just “fluff”..? Plot twist, this DOES have the 3d timing feature it just isnt set on that mode for the vid..?
Wow I'm no tuner but you might as well run 35 degrees at all rpms as for all practical purposes you already are.. I was always told you start up and idle around 10 btdc and then ramp up to what ever max timing your engine likes by about 3k rpm. I can see pulling some at max torque and maybe adding a little at high rpm but the huge timing on start and idle seems strange to me.
![MSD 6AL-2 installation and setup to suit BOOST! | [XY PRINCE] - Ep6.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CXevERQtFqA/mqdefault.jpg)
This video is how I found your channel a few years ago, still great to go back and reference when I need to. Haven't missed a video since then, awesome content.
Learned more in 15 min than I would have thought.
Thanks
Thanks.
A few years after you posted this video, I just wanted to drop you a thank you note. I have messed with my timing so much to get my old 69 Small Block Chevy to run right. My engine likes a lot of advanced timing, but it needs to be a lot less at start. This is a great solution. Tired of taking out the timing light, and goofing around with the damn thing each time I want to tune it.
It is a RS232 that most older laptops used, you can buy a USB to 232 adapter from just about anywhere. I ordered one from Amazon and it came with a CD with the driver. Awesome video, thank you for sharing this information.
RS232, yes, but a DB9, as opposed to a DB25 or some other specification (9 pins vs 25 pins). I do not know the gender needed (male or female), but USB to RS232-DB9 adapters are available. Google is your friend. (search on "usb to rs232 db9 adapter"). Perhaps Eric can let us see a photo of the DB9 end so we can see if it is pins or sockets on his adapter.
Cool video. I have a nice MSD ignition system, using the 6AL control module. If the 6al-2 is plug and play replacement I do believe will want to get one. I already have a spare 6A module, which I replaced with the 6AL a while ago just to get the rev limiter feature.
Thanks Eric, i stuffed around trying to get mine to work, bought a serial port to usb adaptor, still no luck, found this vid, you mention the dics to make the adaptor work and i look in my adaptor pack and there's a disc 🤣 ran the disc, all working now 👍
Hi Eric, I'm running this 6AL-2 programmable box. The video is very informative. I like the idea of setting timing a few degrees higher on the balancer, which will allow you to move timing in the software curve. I never realized that. Thank you. Also agree with you, DYNO YOUR ENGINE.
Again, Eric, thank you so much for your tutorial.
Thank you sir. I’m give this a try I feel more confident after your video.
Good system I have the same system with 3bar MSD map senor for this system all black with pro billet distributer back also.
It is a serial cable with a DB9 connector and you need a serial to USB adapter. You are right computers no longer have serial ports. Good videos. Cheers!
You can add timing after you pass peak torque because the engine volumetric efficiency is dropping quickly and that will allow more timing.
Good info thanks for sharing
Eric, thank you for another great video. Your information is always useful and great for real engine guys.
The MSD WILL work with manifold vacuum, this is very handy for road cars, by running a vac advance system you can run the engine cooler (well the exhaust really) and get better MPG. The cable is a 9 pin serial cable, its a pain in the ass! They should be using a USB connector in this day and age.
I run my timing through the sniper. I think the sniper is much more tunable. This is rpm based only whereas the sniper has a 31x31 table like the fuel table. The msd works great for racing when you're at full throttle but I like the sniper's ability to have a full timing curve at part throttle cruising in daily drivers as well. I set mine for max vacuum at idle and add timing with rpm and reduce timing as load increases. I simulated a vacuum advance and a centrifugal advance to have my timing all in by 2900rpms.
I am interested in your dyno video.
Thanks for the videos. I have an old MSD timing box that you adjust with a screwdriver. I doubt they make it anymore. I've never used it. The one you have is going to work alot better.
Great video, looking forward to the new motor and the new stuff coming
Dang! I didn’t know 6al2 could do all that. Just got me a 5 liter mustang with one on it. Believe it was giving me trouble driving home, I had to pull over and let it cool off for 15 to 20 minutes then it was good for another 45 minutes or so. The box it’s self didn’t get hot. I need to fix the janky wiring job that was done on it first and probably move it in to the car before I rule it out.
My 6AL-2 fried and as usual didn't think about saving the spark table until after the data was no longer retrievable. I bought another one so now I have to program from scratch. I keep getting an error from my MSI laptop that there are no ports available. So I'm forced to use my wife's gateway laptop. So now I need to figure out what to set the timing for a 427 small block. I believe its running 10.5:1 compression. it's running a Howards cam 110275-10 Lift: .545 / .565, Duration @ .050: 241 / 247, Centerline: 106, Rough idle, Hot street & bracket racing. The engine was dynoed at 549hp. I'm trying to get a starting point to get the right timing. This cam has a recommended range from 2600 to 6400 rpm.
Great video. Good stuff !!!
Thanks for watching
im having trouble finding a sweet spot with a 347 small block ford. i tried this set up and had to adjust to get it half decent started but still having trouble. any suggestions?
Can u put the link for the software download? Thx I can't find it
Very good explanation
I've watched this video so many times and I'm still confused. I need to set an advance curve starting at 0 degrees at 1000rpm, rising steadily to about 5 degrees at 1500, 10 degrees at about 2000, 15 degrees at 3000, 22 degrees at 4000, and staying on that trajectory until 5500 where it flatlines at about 30. Static timing is 10 degrees. Can you offer any help, please?
Have you had any problems whith interference whith the wires?? Having some problems also can you start it whith the computer connected
No problems with it having interference but I have the first sniper unit.
I can start it with computer connected.
@@WeingartnerRacing thanks for replying I’m going to send it in to be repaired because I have tired every thing I can possibly do and it’s not helping thanks for letting me know though
Does a 7AL work the same way?
No. Otherwise it would be a 7al.
@@sideshow45 ???
Drop Rpm is how much the ignition system will let the rpm drop before giving it ignition to go back to the limiter, ie,if you have a 8000rpm limit and a 1000rpm drop, it will hit 8000, drop to 7000 and kick back to 8000.
If I am wrong at all please correct me. Have a good day!
You are probably right. I will change it and see.
What are the specs for cam you're running? I'm running the super sniper in a 383 with 259/275 at .050 . Your curve actually is pretty crisp in mine. Idle is a little higher than I needed.
252/258 108LSA .780/.680
Great video.. do we delete and not use vacuum advance and vacuum advance canister when locking the distributor?
Yes delete the vacuum advance.
@@WeingartnerRacing thank you..can you please make a video about 2 step rev limiter.. and how to set the distrubuter
USB to serial port converter is what it looks like.
I have tried to find link on holley site to download no luck
232👍's up EW thanks for sharing
I have the 6AL 2. Programmable. My old laptop. USB ports went out got another laptop. Loaded my MSD disc still have the DB9 connector. But now I can't. Down load any changes. Won't do anything when I plugged in the USB cable the computer make s the sound it sopose to. Recognizing the the plug connection. But I can't transfer any information. It's not even. Accepting a tach signal ? In told I have to download a driver. Not sure how to do that I didn't have to do that with my other laptop. I hat the 6al2 since 2005 this is the first time I have had this issue
i bought a DB9 connector and there was no driver for it available so the ignition unit was not being recognized by the PC. I had the same issue as you.. I went to a computer shop and purchased DB9 connector with an installation disc AUS$ 30 .. loaded it onto the PC and now all good and can transfer and save from the 6al2
We down loaded the driver. I am able to change the settings but the laptop is not registering at all when the engine is running. Might end up going to a computer shop. To see if they can address the problem
I have watch a lot of video on just this "How to" on the software.
Finally, Eric here has explained the software very well.
However, I would like to confirm my thoughts.
Since this software will ONLY take timing away (retard),
*I now must set my base (physically) timing @ the top of what I want or need. 35 degree for my application.*
Start my curve from there.
I hope I am understanding this correct.
Thanks for sharing Eric!!
This one doesnt look like it has the 3d timing map like the grid, sniper system and daytona sensors etc....
do you miss anything about that feature when setting timing with this one..? Or for all intents and purposes, is that just “fluff”..?
Plot twist, this DOES have the 3d timing feature it just isnt set on that mode for the vid..?
It is a serial port not vga
Good video, I think the plug is called a "vga" so the adapter will be vga to usb or hdmi haha
Its not vga because I bought the box and figured it out😂
that's a standard serial port to a USB adapter, you may need to download software, not hardware
Wow I'm no tuner but you might as well run 35 degrees at all rpms as for all practical purposes you already are.. I was always told you start up and idle around 10 btdc and then ramp up to what ever max timing your engine likes by about 3k rpm. I can see pulling some at max torque and maybe adding a little at high rpm but the huge timing on start and idle seems strange to me.