Rakon heli still has that 45% store wide discount that you can use on top off stuff already on sale. Complete 100% carbon and complete aluminum chassis kit for like $70 vs microheli $270!
Dude go with the solid carbon main shaft. I had a pretty knarley crash today in flight mode 2. The main shaft snapped and the entire rotor and blades went flying unharmed. Replaced the main shaft and threw on new anti rotation links and she’s ready to go.
I wish there was a way to put a micro cam in the cab, or below the skids where it would look like a flood light, but I know something like that would affect the performance and battery life. I love RC craft. Very nice repairs.
I put zeal 238mm carbon blades on my 230s and I also like the stock ones better, balanced better and tougher in crashes. You need to run good amount of expo in flight mode 1&2. I recommend at least 30%. Makes the stick response less sensitive to input around center stick, good for beginners. Your rate should be about 85% for elevator, aileron and rudder.
Yeah switching back to the stock blades it’s much better! That’s a great idea I’ll definitely try it out! I do have the stock settings for expo that was recommended in the manual. But i think it’s set at 75%. I’ll have to mess with it and see how it works. Thanks for the help!
Interesting, you suggest 30% expo for mode 2 for a newbie, but since when a newbie needs mode 2? It's not 3d piloting yet. Too high RPM and high expo actually make it worse, at least in my experience. High RPM makes heli drift and fly away much faster and for that need faster reaction from sticks, not sluggish expo.
Help Please . Collective pitch is not working . Throttle works and so does Rudder on left stick . Right gimbal is fine. Elevator and ailerons move fine . Please help . I installed a new Main Motor Blade Grip . I'm using the DXs Transmitter .
Question..i need a reciever for my "pre smart" 230s v2..can i replace reciever with a smart reciever and esc and retain stock servos and motors..im using an nx8 radio
Thanks..ive havent got any info either..im just guessing but reciever and esc combo should work..im going to roll the dice and see..i will let you know..i have 3 230s v2s that went into storage for a year..2 "woke up"..1 didnt..ive tried everything i know including complete disconnect..nx8 says bind complete but reciever goes blank..i still love this "figure it out" stuff..stay tuned..thanks my friend
Servo gears always break, definitely get extra gear sets. Blades usually last a while. Depending how hard you crash the shafts are usually okay. People do say to replace the shafts if you crash. Hope this helped!
@@SlickBackAnt wow i watched many 230 videos but i think it's the first time i heard that servos break that easy in 230, it's surprising. Thanks for the info. I'm just looking for some small machine to practice 3d tricks without worrying much about damage, so was possibly considering a 230 too :)
Glad to see it is flying for you again. Do you have any Expo programed into your Radio? Blade recommends +25 on Aileron, Elevator and Rudder. It will help with the twitchiness around center stick.
Thank you! Yes i do. I’m not to sure how to use it tho. I have it bound to a switch and don’t really notice it doing anything. I’ll have to figure that out! Thank you!
Hi great vid. I have a question you may be able to help me with, I have just crashed my 230s V2, its my first heli and I guess this sort of thing happens when learning to fly, I have replaced bent tail boom and main gear but it has a split on one side of the frame, do you think it might be possible to replace just one side of the frame to avoid having to strip the whole heli down, any thoughts would be appreciated.
@@SlickBackAnt Hi, success, all's well. Because the broken frame kept springing apart, I tacked it together using super glue, then when dry wrapped a tiny piece of fibre glass cloth soaked in epoxy around the break and now it's as good as new, adjusted the cg and it now flies beautifully. I am now prepared for the next inevitable crash and repair. I've just celebrated my 77th birthday and eyesight and reflexes not so good anymore so I guess further crashes are on the horizon, but I'm determined to master this black art.
Uh oh. Same park with the deadly trees :) I see you went down the Microheli rabbit hole. Make sure you don't do that with your 360. Just get the swash leveler and change the servos for ones with metal case on the 360. Just before I sold mine I changed to an iKon FBL and felt so good I felt really bad to pack it for the buyer. The Fusion has a new FBL unit don't know how good it is, probably good as things have come a long way since those times. Anyways, keep it up!
What’s wrong with microheli!? Lol no i was planning on leaving my 360 basically all stock parts. 360 came with really nice parts. Unlike the 230, everything was plastic and broke to easily. Which servos do you recommend for the 360?
@@SlickBackAnt I used to buy KST 215’s but I didn’t have good luck with them. Since then I have met many pilots who are happy with KST. Luckily they released a newer model. They are really inexpensive so I think they would work for you. Try the KST X12-508 and NOT the KST DS215MG. I think the extra $5 dollars per servo will be worth it for the X12’s. I don’t know if changing the tail servo is needed or not, probably just try the cyclics.
@@SlickBackAnt Torq servos are another good option. Torq and KST are basically sister brands manufactured by the same company so they share the awesome servo centering feature. You can buy the KST Servo Programming Card and you can center the servos without mounting them to the Heli and without FBL config. That is one really cool feature. I think the card works with all their servos but I haven’t used it personally. So basically you place the servo horn as close as possible with the servo powered by the program card then use the dial to move it to be perfectly at 90 degrees (use a Lego square or rectangular block to measure it really works) and set the subtrim of your FBL to zero on all three servos. Then use a swash leveler in case your 90 degree measurement was not perfect spot on but should be or a couple points of subtrim off. That should make your swash level and the Heli feeling locked in during hover. If it drifts should be front or rear and that is fixed with placing the battery as counterweight. Do NOT use the radio trims at all. The old FBL that came with the 360 CFX had a feature to subtrim the whole swash to fix what you can’t definitely fix mechanically (maybe your battery is too long and cannot be moved to shift the weight for example) but I don’t know if your FBL does that. In any case don’t use radio trims leave those at zero and disable them entirely from the radio programming.
Anthony, thanks for another great video. I noticed the 4 screws retaining the tail boom into the frame are hex. Mine are phillips head, which are almost impossible to tighten without stripping a little more each time they are reused...Cheap Chit !! Horizon is zero help...can you give me the specs on yours ? Did it come that way, or did you change to hex ? If so, where did you buy them ? Keep making videos !!!!
That’s really weird! Mine were always hex. Maybe someone changed yours! I can figure out what size they are when i get home from work and let you know! Thank you very much! I’ll try my best to continue making as much videos as i can!!!
I did buy it used so who knows....it's like new. hard to believe anyone go from Hex to crappy phillips head, maybe someone out there can chime in... Tony @@SlickBackAnt
@@tonyc7049 sounds like they may have been changed. Normally, I don’t think there’s ever Phillips head screws on RC helicopters. I think blade sells hardware kits tho
A little Windex down the boom helps a thousand percent
For 3 months you're really good, people still crash after 20 years !
Thank you! I am using stability mode lol so I’m cheating
Rakon heli still has that 45% store wide discount that you can use on top off stuff already on sale. Complete 100% carbon and complete aluminum chassis kit for like $70 vs microheli $270!
Dude go with the solid carbon main shaft. I had a pretty knarley crash today in flight mode 2. The main shaft snapped and the entire rotor and blades went flying unharmed. Replaced the main shaft and threw on new anti rotation links and she’s ready to go.
Surprisingly I’m still using the stock main shaft! It seems to be okay. But I’ll look into the upgrade!
I wish there was a way to put a micro cam in the cab, or below the skids where it would look like a flood light, but I know something like that would affect the performance and battery life. I love RC craft. Very nice repairs.
That would be awesome! Thank you very much! I wish you could put a micro cam but yeah like you said it definitely affects performance.
I put zeal 238mm carbon blades on my 230s and I also like the stock ones better, balanced better and tougher in crashes.
You need to run good amount of expo in flight mode 1&2. I recommend at least 30%. Makes the stick response less sensitive to input around center stick, good for beginners. Your rate should be about 85% for elevator, aileron and rudder.
Yeah switching back to the stock blades it’s much better! That’s a great idea I’ll definitely try it out! I do have the stock settings for expo that was recommended in the manual. But i think it’s set at 75%. I’ll have to mess with it and see how it works. Thanks for the help!
Interesting, you suggest 30% expo for mode 2 for a newbie, but since when a newbie needs mode 2? It's not 3d piloting yet. Too high RPM and high expo actually make it worse, at least in my experience. High RPM makes heli drift and fly away much faster and for that need faster reaction from sticks, not sluggish expo.
Help Please . Collective pitch is not working . Throttle works and so does Rudder on left stick . Right gimbal is fine. Elevator and ailerons move fine . Please help . I installed a new Main Motor Blade Grip . I'm using the DXs Transmitter .
Question..i need a reciever for my "pre smart" 230s v2..can i replace reciever with a smart reciever and esc and retain stock servos and motors..im using an nx8 radio
Not to sure! I would have to look into that. Haven’t got into replacing those before.
Thanks..ive havent got any info either..im just guessing but reciever and esc combo should work..im going to roll the dice and see..i will let you know..i have 3 230s v2s that went into storage for a year..2 "woke up"..1 didnt..ive tried everything i know including complete disconnect..nx8 says bind complete but reciever goes blank..i still love this "figure it out" stuff..stay tuned..thanks my friend
What kind of damage usually comes if crash 230 into some grass? Does shaft / spindle always bend or it usually happens only after few crashes?
Servo gears always break, definitely get extra gear sets. Blades usually last a while. Depending how hard you crash the shafts are usually okay. People do say to replace the shafts if you crash. Hope this helped!
@@SlickBackAnt wow i watched many 230 videos but i think it's the first time i heard that servos break that easy in 230, it's surprising. Thanks for the info. I'm just looking for some small machine to practice 3d tricks without worrying much about damage, so was possibly considering a 230 too :)
@@cutefoxRC 230 is definitely a great start! Awesome helicopter!
Glad to see it is flying for you again. Do you have any Expo programed into your Radio? Blade recommends +25 on Aileron, Elevator and Rudder. It will help with the twitchiness around center stick.
Thank you! Yes i do. I’m not to sure how to use it tho. I have it bound to a switch and don’t really notice it doing anything. I’ll have to figure that out! Thank you!
You won’t notice expo until you start flying 3d
@@Ryan-uu4tw makes sense! Thank you!
Hi great vid. I have a question you may be able to help me with, I have just crashed my 230s V2, its my first heli and I guess this sort of thing happens when learning to fly, I have replaced bent tail boom and main gear but it has a split on one side of the frame, do you think it might be possible to replace just one side of the frame to avoid having to strip the whole heli down, any thoughts would be appreciated.
@@Tigercatflyboy i use epoxy glue!! Works great on repairing frames.
@@SlickBackAnt Cheers, many thanks for the tip, I'll give it a try, it will save a whole lot of fiddly work👍
@@Tigercatflyboy exactly! Cause you who crash again !!
@@SlickBackAnt Hi, success, all's well. Because the broken frame kept springing apart, I tacked it together using super glue, then when dry wrapped a tiny piece of fibre glass cloth soaked in epoxy around the break and now it's as good as new, adjusted the cg and it now flies beautifully. I am now prepared for the next inevitable crash and repair. I've just celebrated my 77th birthday and eyesight and reflexes not so good anymore so I guess further crashes are on the horizon, but I'm determined to master this black art.
@@Tigercatflyboy that’s awesome to hear! Happy birthday! Keep practicing and you’ll definitely get there.
Uh oh. Same park with the deadly trees :) I see you went down the Microheli rabbit hole. Make sure you don't do that with your 360. Just get the swash leveler and change the servos for ones with metal case on the 360. Just before I sold mine I changed to an iKon FBL and felt so good I felt really bad to pack it for the buyer. The Fusion has a new FBL unit don't know how good it is, probably good as things have come a long way since those times. Anyways, keep it up!
What’s wrong with microheli!? Lol no i was planning on leaving my 360 basically all stock parts. 360 came with really nice parts. Unlike the 230, everything was plastic and broke to easily. Which servos do you recommend for the 360?
@@SlickBackAnt I used to buy KST 215’s but I didn’t have good luck with them. Since then I have met many pilots who are happy with KST. Luckily they released a newer model. They are really inexpensive so I think they would work for you. Try the KST X12-508 and NOT the KST DS215MG. I think the extra $5 dollars per servo will be worth it for the X12’s. I don’t know if changing the tail servo is needed or not, probably just try the cyclics.
@@SlickBackAnt Torq servos are another good option. Torq and KST are basically sister brands manufactured by the same company so they share the awesome servo centering feature. You can buy the KST Servo Programming Card and you can center the servos without mounting them to the Heli and without FBL config. That is one really cool feature. I think the card works with all their servos but I haven’t used it personally. So basically you place the servo horn as close as possible with the servo powered by the program card then use the dial to move it to be perfectly at 90 degrees (use a Lego square or rectangular block to measure it really works) and set the subtrim of your FBL to zero on all three servos. Then use a swash leveler in case your 90 degree measurement was not perfect spot on but should be or a couple points of subtrim off. That should make your swash level and the Heli feeling locked in during hover. If it drifts should be front or rear and that is fixed with placing the battery as counterweight. Do NOT use the radio trims at all. The old FBL that came with the 360 CFX had a feature to subtrim the whole swash to fix what you can’t definitely fix mechanically (maybe your battery is too long and cannot be moved to shift the weight for example) but I don’t know if your FBL does that. In any case don’t use radio trims leave those at zero and disable them entirely from the radio programming.
Great video. nice to see you enjoying this hobby. i wish i can let u try my 700 tho. you would get abdicated xD
Thank you very much! Lol that would be sweet!!
Anthony, thanks for another great video. I noticed the 4 screws retaining the tail boom into the frame are hex. Mine are phillips head, which are almost impossible to tighten without stripping a little more each time they are reused...Cheap Chit !! Horizon is zero help...can you give me the specs on yours ? Did it come that way, or did you change to hex ? If so, where did you buy them ? Keep making videos !!!!
That’s really weird! Mine were always hex. Maybe someone changed yours! I can figure out what size they are when i get home from work and let you know! Thank you very much! I’ll try my best to continue making as much videos as i can!!!
I did buy it used so who knows....it's like new. hard to believe anyone go from Hex to crappy phillips head, maybe someone out there can chime in...
Tony
@@SlickBackAnt
@@tonyc7049 sounds like they may have been changed. Normally, I don’t think there’s ever Phillips head screws on RC helicopters. I think blade sells hardware kits tho
Can you identify the specs ?? ie: metric? thread length and diameter. Thanks for the help
Tony @@SlickBackAnt
@@tonyc7049 i think it’s these! Cap Screw M2x5
Always the same problem with e-flite heli or planes REBUILT ! and for the quality it's too expensive! you want a good helicopter GOOSKY or OMP ! 🚁