Honda ABS Sensor Replacement | Rusted Sensor Head Broke and Stuck | Accord Fit Jazz & More
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- Опубліковано 9 сер 2020
- This video shows how to replace a Honda ABS speed sensor that is fused to the wheel and breaks in a normal replacement procedure. You don't need to undo all the wheel parts to drill the old sensor head out; just follow my instructions herein and you'll be set!
Here's the link to the other gentleman who ended up disassembling his whole car to drill the old sensor out ;D
• Honda ABS Sensor Repla...
It is a good idea to use the compressed air, however, the shaving from the drill bit will still be left inside and cause more damage on the road in high speed. It's best to remove it completely and clean it thoroughly by removing ball joint and opening it to see the inside.
If that's a risk, skip drilling with the last drill bit (closest diameter to the sensor head). Instead use a screwdriver or tweezer to pluck out the plastic shell stuck to the wall. A bit of that happened with mine. Either way, I've driven about 8000 miles since the replacement and no issues came up.
@@LaplacianFourier That's great input using the screwdriver!
If you still at all it's gonna get some debris in with the bearing. You also risk drilling into the tone ring if you're not careful, or don't know what you're doing. It really is best (proper) to remove the hub and use a tap or something to push it out from the inside.
@@Fly-aaron92 is the sensor visible without removing the bearings from the hub?
@@willtankersley6539 probably depends on your vehicle. I would guess not, since your wheel bearing is what the tone ring rides on.
Only one Honestly and Smart guy on UA-cam. Not need remove everythg. Great Video. Best of luck for Urself
Just want to thank you .
I view your video as I was desperate trying to remove a 17 years abs sensor on a Honda. I got some clues from your video and finally succeeded to remove the stuck mess. Thanks again.
Your video is much better than that other guys video. I saw your comment, I’ve got to do mine tomorrow thanks for the tips.
Worked well for me. I ended up drilling 0.8 in. deep with a 5/16" drill. Then I used an o-ring pick shaped like a hook to 'gaff' it
Thanks for this. I have both frontend wheel speed units rusted in and had to bust them off. I was in the process of redoing the entire frontend anyway so I took the hubs to the bench to impact in new ball joints. I drilled out the rusted in sensors and the new ones only fit so far. I'll work the drill. Thanks again
Your video just saved me. Thanks so much for sharing it! One of the two ABS sensors was seized on my CRV and broke off. I really didn't want to take the whole thing apart. I took it slow removing pieces with compressed air as you said and was successful. I pulled the last piece out nice and clean with a set of narrow tweezers used for electronics.
I'm happy to hear that you did it with care and it was successful. I regret not expounding on the last drill diameter part as it's best to skip that and instead do as you did: using a tweezer to pluck the sensor shell out.
@@LaplacianFourier Thanks again! All is well so far.
Wish I'd seen this before I took the caliper off, still saved me loads of time.
I just got done doing this to my 2010 Fit and it worked like a charm. Start to finish it took about 30 minutes.
Thanks bro I’ve got Honda civic 17plate type S had same issue with wheel speed sensor rear right , after I sow your video I did exactly the same thing and it’s work.thank you.
To the Creator of this video ,I just did this for the first time for a customer , neighbor,and only,only,only because of this video ,I succeeded,
U HAVE MY SUBSCRIPTION,AND IM. A 18 YEAR Self Taught MECHANIC
Thank you for the kind words, man. Wish you all the best in your mechanic journey! 🫶
The sensor is actually set along side the magnetized part of the bearing. If metal shaving drop inside the hole, it will screw up the reading. Thanks for sharing!
If that's a risk, skip drilling with the last drill bit (closest diameter to the sensor head). Instead use a screwdriver to pluck out the plastic shell stuck to the wall. I've driven about 8000 miles since the replacement and no issues came up.
Thanks for the video, big help on my Mini Cooper s!!
Thanks so much .drilled it out enough to get coarse thread drywall in it then pulled out with cat paw crow bar.thanks again
Thank you for the tip to know how much it need drill, informative.
Good idea with the blue tape!
Great video. Thank you, sir
Thanks you helping a lot
Rear sensors broke off on my Element, I was replacing the wheel bearing and cv axles, both sides the bolt broke off flush.
Odyssey, Element use very similar sensors so what you show should work with most Hondas.
Just drill a small hole and put a screw there and then just pull. Don't forget to leave it soak in WD40 for a few minutes
Had this happen this afternoon to my daughters 05 Acura TSX - had the ABS? TSA lights on for the last 6 months and code reader stated left front speed sensor - simple enough - nope !!!! little plastic piece broke spent an hour getting it all out - combination of drilling , hitting screwdriver with a hammer to chisel all the pieces out - using a shop vac in between. Had to raise front of car so I could turn the hub to get all the pieces out of the axle - but all is well now - no lights on dash - speed sensor was $17... Good tips in this video though.
Don't forget to knock off all the rust from the mounting surface, I have see rust on the mounting surface hold the sensor up just enough to cause problems 😉
Yeah, that's a real bad, common issue on 99-06 chevy an gmcs.
veryy interesting thank you for sharing
I like this kid all ready
I tried this on my 2011 Mercedes-Benz ML350 for the rear right wheel sensor and I only drilled in a little ways and then I used a screwdriver to pry up the side a little bit and then I used a needle-nose pliers to pull it the rest of the way out. I did not have to drill the whole thing out.
Big 🧠 energy 💪
Honda Fit is a good car
Yea! I love mine.
The same thing happen to my honda accord ex 2004,3.0L.the most easier way to deal with the hustle,is to lubricate the sensor area were broke(thoroughly)then just pull the broken part with a long nose pliers,and your Done.without the drilling.😬😬😬
Any lubricación ?
@@dwaka08
Just lubricate it with WD-40,but very Lightly enough to pull the broken piece out of the way,Ok.
How do you pull it out if it broke off flush. There's nothing to grab
@@shantor100 You have a good point there. I have easy outs on hand anyway. I need to replace the rear right sensor and with 22 years of rust around it, I assume I’m in for a pig of a job and some phenomenal language
I would’ve screw a bolt in to it and pul it out with a pliers
I just did this.....I took out lower ball joint, and axle from the hub. Then from the rear of the hub you get a clear view of the magnetic strip on the bearing. THEN you can sufficiently clean out the area. I used 5/16s drill bit. Its perfect fit. You dont need to take the whole knuckle off. Just swing the knuckle back and forth after disconnecting lower ball joint. BUT you gotta take the axle out of the hub. I mean come on now. Your just leaving shards and shavings of metal and plastic if you dont. PLUS I cleaned up the magnetic strip. Its the most important part. If you just go ham on it you will ruin magnetic strip. Then youll need to replace wheel bearing. Work quick or work quick and smart.
Read the pinned comment.
If sensors were replaced a year/year and a half ago would you think they've actually failed again(were broke during wheel bearing change) or just need cleaning?
If it’s original Honda part, it’s unlikely to break in a year, so in that case, unhook the connector up in the wheel well. Get a multimeter and test the leads of the connector for resistance. If it’s infinite or 0, then it’s broken, but if there is some value, it may be still working. It’s really unlikely that it’s still working though because the whole sensor is molded in the plastic and it shouldn’t get dirty at all because there’s almost no chance dirt will get in there. Just spend ~$30 and replace the sensor!
DO what this guy did in the video verses ....in an accord 06 remove the upper ball joint bolt 17mm and the caliper bolts 17mm and undo the cv axel nut 32mm and push the cv axel through the knuckle and pivot the knuckle to view the plastic part down inside, which if the plastic is rusted in... it could still have to be drilled....
how do you learn what sensor is bad. I been trying to figure out what my code mean. I have a 2014 Honda Accord with a code of 38-11 (ABS solenoid valve malfunction). I took it to O'reilly and that was all they could make from it. It pop on and off every other day and it driving me crazy. I brought a haynes repair book and waiting for it to come in to see if it give any more information.
Also i tried taking an abs sensor out yesterday. I got the screw off and unweld the rust from it but when i pull the sensor out of the housing it wouldn't bulged. felt a lot of resistance... tried rotating but nothing. I was too scared to continue in fear of breaking it. Do you remember how to pull it out from the housing? just straight back or is there a trick.
For Fit, front left sensor code was 13. It was 1 long flash and 3 short flashes either on the driver gauge area or in the radio… can’t remember now. If your error code says abs solenoid valve, I’d go fix that first, maybe the abs light come on as a byproduct of that issue.
The sensors are not too expensive if you think it’s not the solenoid valve but just a bad sensor… but I recommend you tackle the problem indicated by the error code. Research other ways pin point solenoid valve issue and if confirmed, time’s a wasting.
By drilling out on the car how do you keep the last 1/4 of the sensor from falling into the axle splines?
I don't understand your question. You're concerned the drilled particles will enter an enclosed axle spline?
It can't fall. There's nowhere for it to fall and remember, it was fused to the wall.
There's just enough space between the knuckle and the CV axle shaft (the shiny part in the bottom of the hole) for the compressed air to blow out the tiniest of drill cuttings; the larger pieces should blow back out the sensor bore.
Do you need to change the sensor and cable or just the sensor
The sensor comes with cable so change the sensor and the cable.
I didn't have much of a problem getting the old one out ,I had a problem getting the new one in and ended up breaking it trying to get it back out after it was stuck half way in
Maybe you were sent the wrong part?? 🤔
Yeah my accord is exactly like this one and it also broke when I tried to get it out. To top it all off I wasn’t even able to get the new one in. For some reason it wouldn’t fit. Probably the wrong part.
If you get the right part and it still doesn't fit, don't be afraid to drill with a slightly bigger drill bit as the plastic housing of the sensor head or rust can still be stuck to the wall of hole. I drilled it such that I can see shiny silver metal at some parts of the hole.
@@LaplacianFourier clean the rust out of the abs sensor hole using a small cylindrical wire brush and cordless drill. drill bits a last resort!!🥴
My new one would not fit .till I used a round chain saw file to clean the rust out of the hole
if it's a sensor and you don't need it anymore turn the can upside down spray that soccer get that thing nice and frosty than a beer a light get a drill bit and drill through that sucker and then when you drill through it and when you feel like you went through it stop and then blow out the hole and then the new sensor should fit
🤣
hello my friend from Europe,,,please answer me a question,,,does your car have a CVT automatic transmission?,did you have problems with the transmission because of this abs sensor?.I have a honda jazz and I have problems with the abs sensor, but it is related to speed recognition, thank you.
Yes my car has an automatic transmission, not CVT. I did not have transmission problems at all. Yes this sensor obviously tells the car the RPM of the wheels so you will have speed recognition problems related to this ABS sensor but I am 97% sure it has nothing to do with your transmission.
@@LaplacianFourier thanks bro,.
Shop vacuum to get the drill shavings out of that sensor hole.
The plastic shavings go inside where your axle and seal are. Would make me nervous. best to take your wheel off
Still working fine for you?
Yes. I've driven around 8000 miles since then and no problems at all.
Be careful when you do this like he said. I ended up damaging the sending sensor on the inside surface of the wheel bearing with the drill bit and and to replace the bearing anyhow.
I don't understand, did you drill into the bearing? You must've felt the huge change in resistance going from drilling the plastic sensor part to metal part and stopped accordingly. I surely felt it when I shaved small bits of metal from the metal housing side walls, let alone if I drilled into wheel parts.
@@LaplacianFourier Personally I use different sizes of drills until I reached the taper end of the sensor. Then I use a small drill to make a hole into it so I could insert a screw and remove the taper end with a vise grip. I think there were no residues, hopefully.
Wow
Indeed
Wouldn't it just be easier to drill a screw into the remnant of the old sensor and then lever it out?
Now we’re cooking with fire!
Has anyone thought of putting dialectic grease on the sensor, above the magnet area and the mating surface? So that it won't get stuck? I am in a pickle with my VW Passat.
I used silicone grease... It's hasn't caused any issues and I suppose it's working well.
@@LaplacianFourier I finally got the sensor out without breaking it off. I used ballistol non petroleum lubricant. I let it soak for a day, applying it several times. I finally was able to pry it out using 2 screwdrivers...WHEW!
Murphys Law is now Marty's Law...IF there is any chance of this damn thing breaking...it is going to break(and stay seized) Murphy has nothing on Marty ! Good Luck to every other name though.
Rick and Marty
Is your real name Saul Rosenberg ????
How did you guess?
Was this car in the bottom of the ocean?
Someone drove it in Vermont dirt road and never did anti-rust preparation. Look what they did to my boy.
Here is where you should be asking yourself... "Should I be taking advice from someone who has no idea what they are doing either." Just remember: $100/hr or $150/hr if you watch & $200/hr if you tried to fix it first. Either way, we'll leave the light on for you. And next time, learn how to do it BEFORE you try fixing it. Just Say'n
...I don't care how broke, impatient or just plain stupid you are? It will ALWAYS cost more to do something twice.
@@Sick-Of-It-All so Paul, let me guess, your a jet aircraft mechanic with 25 yrs experience??? 🥴
Your method is the lazy mans way. Bits of the sensor inside the hub may end up cause more problems in the future. It is better to do it the proper way.
I agree, you shouldn't leave any dirt or loose shavings from drilling out the speed sensor. The area needs to be completely clean. The only way to do that is to remove the hub and bearing assembly then drill out the speed senson and then clean up the entiere area. No professional mechanical that takes pride in a job well done would go what this guy is suggesting.
By all means, do as you like.
@@carlellis9647 Is there any more professional mechanics left? When you go to a garage they just rip you of.