Advanced U siphon Testing
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- Опубліковано 4 кві 2017
- Time to test out more U siphon ideas. In this video I try 3 sizes of pipe to find out if the diameter of pipe makes a difference in how the siphon start. Next I use a longer exit pipe to learn if that will pull a better siphon.
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A grown kid will ANY excuse to get to play in the water! Lol.
Keep up the great videos.
I am really grateful that you have shared this with us. It helped me in so many ways designing the rain water harvesting system. Greatly appreciated.
Take a good look at your toilet. That works the way you need as a siphon. Perfect design, highly reliable compact design.
The siphon will start easier with a upward bend at the output.
An other way of automatic siphoning is just an ordinary siphon using a hose. The hose exits into a full bucket of water. The rim of the bucket exactly at the elevation you like for the water level in the pond. This will work as a hole drilled in the side of the pond wall. No inrush of water to get the siphon started is needed, but long periods of heat and sun may rise some concern due to vaporisation.
love these videos, im learning heaps for when i can finally go off grid. awesome work man!
+jakebarlow100 thank you. I enjoy these tests myself.
Cool to watch you doing these backyard science tests, keep it up my friend! Browsing some other sites and videos about bell siphons and U siphons and I found 2 principles that you may want to use in a retest. A) the down-pipe should extend below the lowest point of your up-pipe plumbing. B) your down-pipe should have half or less the cross section area of your up-pipe. i.e. use 3/4 in (1.77in^2) through the bottom and up and around the shepherd's crook, then use a reducer to 1/2 in (0.64in^2) for a long straight downpipe.
Nice demo of a very simple U-siphon setup. Thanks!
+Oldman Winter these u siphon are fun. The video went to long. I had another 3 to go.
I'm still enjoying your channel. Thanks.
Thank you. it means a lot.
You mentioned reducing the diameter of pipe in your first video to get the siphon to pull when you tried your second test. You could do that, and some people do. The problem I have with that method is that it reduces your flow rate down to the smallest diameter you end up within your pipe system. Another method (seemingly better method that won't reduce your flow) is to make a longer pipe with a few elbows that makes the water drain more slowly. That's essentially why your siphon is working at 6:28 in this video. The water is falling but not lost. It gets slowed down and helps create the vacuum better in the U. When the water just enters the siphon and then falls onto the ground, it's not helping to create any resistance that the vacuum needs. Put an elbow right below your bucket and as close to the bucket as you can, so the water has to change route. That's a slow-down point. If my suggestion is not clear, I can draw a simple diagram for you. Longer pipe and more bends creates more resistance to flow, then the siphon can start more easily with less flow into your tank.
Adding a longer pipe to the end of the siphon was very helpful! It gets the siphon going much faster and allows a larger pipe diameter. After these U siphon tests I made a Bell Siphon and it was even more efficient at pulling the siphon with low flow. You might like my next U siphon videos with the shishi Odoshi fountain.
great work man....
a lot effort shared to folks here....
Thank you. This concept is entertaining to work with.
So as you said, ducks are not clean, and most of their waste is going to sink to the bottom so you want to suck the water from the bottom to get the most out of the pond; but you do not want to empty it; so you could T in a "snorkel" to set the drain level as this will allow air to enter the pipe. I'd use 1in for the drain for high volume flow and 1/4 for the snorkel to set the stop depth.
pond wall> #
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Siphons rely on the negative pressure of the pipe after the siphon pulling the rest of the weight of the water against gravity through the siphon so the larger the drop of the exit pipe the better it would work so long as the pressure is not so negative that the water flashes off and the flow remains laminar across the full diameter of the pipe.
Hi, I built an example of your external siphon and it starts very reliably, but depends on the in-flow rate of the water. The problem I'm having is getting the siphon to break when the water level drops to the drain pipe inside the bucket. So.... may I ask how you get the break to be reliable.
Been using an external U siphon for a couple years. use 3/4 with a 1/2 reducer in it. like them.
+Charles Kiplinger that's great. Reducing it does seem to work well. That's what I did with the 3/8 inch and it was quite effective.
New idea I live in the savanah ga area and it's very flat out here I'm trying to use ur videos and other people's videos to build a ram pump. My idea is can you close the top the bucket to make auto siphon tank pulling water from a lower hit
Try pre filling bucket and cap the output end the input could be in a bucket of other water goal is to gain height with the siphon
Hi ... if we close the bucket well and fill it with water from valve at highest point then make another extension of pipe from bucket goes down to suck water from pool lower than siphon pipe output did it work (so we can run ram pump at point higher than pool).thanks ... i appreciate if you can make video about this.
It's a huge learning watching your videos.
Need your guidance to make an Auto Siphon to drain a Pond, Without filling water into it to activate it.
Whenever pond fills with flood water It should activate & starts draining water...
To hold the water level constant in a dam: start an ordinary siphon over the dam. Put the output into a bucket of water. Elevate the bucket so the rim is at the wanted level in the dam. Normally you have no flow. As soon as the rain starts to fall, so does the siphon.
Thank this vdo that open my eyes
+วรพจน์ คงแก้ว thank you for watching!
thanks you
Added the extra pipe and it went upwards that was your problem you need to go down with gravity if you had a longer tube coming out the bottom of the bucket you would have more suction therefore it would suck all the water out the bucket
Would it work placing part of the u syphon in part out? To be able to drain containers without drilling a hole in the bottom
To hold the water level constant in a dam: start an ordinary siphon over the dam. Put the output into a bucket of water. Elevate the bucket so the rim is at the wanted level in the dam. Normally you have no flow. As soon as the rain starts to fall, so does the siphon.
Can you just hot glue a flexible water hose to the outside of the bucket keeping it in the same U siphon shape? If it works it would save you a lot of money and be very compact. I guess you would need a way of holding it's shape and position while you found the perfect shape, then you could glue that down and trace a template from it for any future projects.
I have not tried using a hose as the U siphon but I should think it would work just fine. The pipe is not very expensive though.
Thanks for doing this test. I am building the same type of siphon and the same size. I think the reason your first attempt (which I just watched a few minutes ago) was successful and then failed, was the flow rate of the water. With a fast flow rate you can use larger pipe like 3/4". When the second test of your first video failed, it's because you reduced the flow rate, which put too much air space in the top of the siphon. That did not have enough force to push the air out. To explain in a different way, if you were to take your standpipe and suddenly push it down lower in the bucket, the pressure would be quickly increased, allowing it to push the air out and create that vacuum inside the "U". I am making this comment before actually watching this video, but I saw that you have made three separate sizes to compare. If you are filling the bucket slowly, the smallest diameter pipe will be the easiest to start, but take longest to drain. For your intention of draining a duck pond, the amount of time it takes to drain shouldn't really matter, but smaller diameter pipe will be more easily clogged by the duck waste. If you find a way of filtering out the large waste before it comes into the siphon, the smallest pipe would probably work best. Alternatively, if you fill the pond very quickly, you might be able to get the 3/4" pipe to work. Something I wanted to see in your first video was where the water level was when the first test started to drain. Thanks for sharing your videos.
I think you are right! That larger flow rate from the storage tanks was enough to get that 3/4" siphon going with little issues. But the Ram Pump flow rate was much smaller and was not enough to get it going.
what if u use the sucktion power of that as a feeder to the ram pump ... will it increase pres.. its a good exp.
+Leonardo Maldonado the ram pump will work on a siphon but I have not tried the u siphon.i imagine the "ram" effect would jar the pipe a lot.
Hi, pls teach me how to make bell siphon with water slow flow-in. From viet nam. Thank so much.
Well, that was interesting but can I see it finished and attached to your duck pond?
Sadly I do not have a duck pond. It is a fun idea for the day I get one.
@@LandtoHouse Ohhhh, so I am actually trying to figure out how to redo my current pond. I have a small round kiddie pool size pond by my coop. I am working out an idea where this pond flows down into a larger dug out pond that overflows into an intake bucket with a ram pump connected to it that in turn returns the water the original small pond. So, the water will be constantly circulating and at some point in the system I need a rudimentary filter. So, I watched this video and thought it might incorporate somehow with my idea but not sure how......
The only real problem is that the ram pump is going to have about 90% Wastewater. It won't be long before your system has all of the water at the bottom
Would the auto siphon work if your outlet pipe gradually rises above the height of the buckets top? Or outlet is at 90 degree angle half inch diameter. I have a problem with a surface water drain where its non existent due to the ground being lower than existing surface water drains. I was thinking if I used a 2m drain pipe with width 100mm would a half inch auto siphon fit inside with the outlet rising straight out of the pipe so full pipe can be removed to clean debris etc. Would there be enough pressure to siphon out and move the water above the top end of the drain by at least another 2m gradually to a drain about 4metres away.
I am not aware of a siphon that auto starts when there is a place above the water level. The water would simply get stuck in the pipe between the low spot and the high spot.
Land to House Damn there goes my idea lol I've got another idea whereby using weight and gravity making a pendulum where one side extracts water up a 100mm pipe from a smaller pipe, and with a simple no flow valve in between and another at the smaller extraction pipe, the other weight pushes air into the other 100mm pipe and forces the water to exit at another point. Need to see if a automatic pendulum exists -_- You made one video on your ram pumps with a tap for the waste valve, would it possible to divert that waste water back into the system or would that affect the head pressure from the inlet?
Here is an old design of a pendulum pump that might be fun. ua-cam.com/video/_7dTofZPaaU/v-deo.html
Now guess what you can do now you can use the thicker pipe so you can get water out faster but you have to use the long downpipe to create the downward suction
You should close the outside of the siphone as you continue to poor water....or more accurate 1. close the u part of the siphone 2. fill it with water. 3. continue to poor water above the u part....it will siphone excellently.....
When you say close do you mean manually and then reopen the siphon when the water level is high? I am looking to have an auto siphon that will work when I am not around.
8:23 awesome! If it had larger diameter pipes, you'd have made a toilet bucket!
HA yes so close.
"I think it matters how much pressure.." LMFAO
Lol science....
@@LandtoHouse It's always harder to do "hands on"... lol I've been messing with auto-syphons for 3 years... external U is definitely the best!
@@nunyabidnit937 it's just fun stuff. One could look up the math or learn from others... but that's not fun for video. Most of my videos are just going out and playing.
Yes It does matter, ( at 6:04 ) its the pressure of the burp, the water has more pressure in the resivior so it releases down the pipe. and it sucks down the rest of the water with it.. remember though the speed of the siphon before it takes. the pump has to overpower the begining of the siphon or it with cancel out and stay the same speed and wont drain. BUt the sishi odoshi can solve that. I like how you think I been working on this sort of stuff for a while now, No ram pump yet but I love that thing, thats genius. Now I just need a few $$$ so I can buld one. I also thought perhaps in a pond if you angle the pipe ay a 45 degree angle, perhaps would that work ? all I have is a pond so thats what I have to work with, gravity , im thinking pipe at 45 degree for an intake, and see if the ram pump can do er would be awesome if so
My goal is to make the Shishi odoshi this week and give that a test in the next u siphon video. Should be fun. When you say 45 degrees do you mean angle the u siphon down to allow the water to flow over the top faster?
I dont nessesarily mean specifcially 45 degrees, but to angle a pipe for a still water to create a gravity currrent if one dosent have a creek or a flow to work with.
I dont man for the U siphon, I mean for an intake for the ram pump, to get a pipe and see if gravity can feed it and create a pump action from a still water.
Oh ok. The ram does not work in still water. It has to have head pressure and flowing water to work.
Your siphon is backwards! The diamond siphon needs water flow the opposite of what you did. The water should flow over the top 90 BEFORE flowing down to the side 90. You have it flowing to the side 90 first and then to over the top 90 - this makes it no different than a standard U siphon. The flow from the top 90 to the side 90 causes water to flow back under itself. This makes it harder for air to flow back up the pipe and easier for the siphon to fully activate.
Interesting. I need to revisit this idea in the future and I will turn the siphon around. Thank you for your observation.
You are welcome. My explanation is from what I've researched on it so far. I haven't created one yet, but considering doing some hands on research instead of the armchair research I've done so far. The "diamond siphon" name is used by only one source I've seen so far, but its name seems most fitting (Pun not intended). Another variation I've seen people talk about would involve heating a PVC pipe and bending it into the needed shape. I think this variation would look a lot like a hairpin cotter pin and should be named the hairpin cotter siphon to distinguish it from the diamond siphon, even though functionally they should be the same. I have a theory that bending the PVC to match the hairpin cotter's zigzag after the loop would actually increase the ease of activation of the siphon, but its only a theory. The most interesting way to heat PVC pipe I've seen is heating sand on the stove in a pan and then pouring the hot sand into the pipe. This heats the pipe from the inside out and seems to work well for the UA-camr I seen doing this. Haven't tried bending PVC this way yet, but creating an automatic siphon might give me reason to try it.
To be honest, I'm not sure how far I'm going to work in this. My original goal was to find a way to get water to flood a tank or container every 2 hours, but then have it immediately drain after the flooding. This would be for spouting, microgreens, or fodder and a small trickle water source would trigger the flooding every two or so hours (but it looks a small trickle wouldn't be enough to trigger a bell siphon, U siphon or any related siphons. And it would be a lot easier to just buy a pump and timer and put a hole in the container that is too small to drain the water as fast as the pump is filling it, but big enough to drain it fairly fast when the pump is done. If something I've written on has your interest, you are welcome to try it and even make a video on it. You might search for "loop siphon", trying to think of a name someone might call it is the hard part and I just tried "loop siphon" in Google and it seems promising.
Hands on is the best! I learn so much more that way. I have only tried to heat and bend PVC once. It was not easy. Keeping the pipe uniformly heated is the hardest part. The sand idea is a fun one! not sure how well that will treat your stove top. Might be better to make a fire outside. I was having issues with the small trickle as well. I finally made a shishi odoshi fountain to jump start the siphon. it works but would likely mess with your micro greens.
Convinced me to use U siphon and not use the Bell system.
Nice! They both work well. I found the bell to be tricky to build if you need the cup at the bottom. The U needs a good flow rate though.
@9210w554
Like your demo videos! Ideas spark more ideas. I had fun working with an over the top, external siphon. Works well, no need to drill holes. Video demo can be seen at ua-cam.com/video/LkA6mpL1bnk/v-deo.html
Testing with dirty water.........are you freaking kidding me ?
+You-Tube Junkie what better test than with real nice water from the creek.
Why the fuck have you brought the pipe out of the bucket and then gone up this is not how gravity suction works come on dude amateur error right there