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1. Don't put your soldering on the table, put in in a holder 2. Use a sponge not something invasive 3. use fresh tin for soldering 4. Don't forget to add tin to your tip 5. Don't forget to pre tin element you want to solder 6. Don't put your solder in water 7. Don't solder oxydate metal part. 8. use a fan so u don't have the fume in your face 9. Don't use large tip on small component 10. use the right temperature. 11. Dont use to big or to small tin Thanks me later.
i have been soldering for 50 years and have been j-standard certified in the aerospace industry and this video is a very good representation of proper soldering and explains in good detail the dos and donts. good material!!
Yeah. We learn things till the moment we pass away 🙂. Keeping that in mind is a good sign of agreeing that others too are wise. Please correct my grammar, if I made any mistake 🙂🙂
This video is a MUST SEE for anyone who swings an iron. Brilliant job, Daniele! My top 5 favourite tips from your video are: 1. Clean surfaces are a must 2. Pre-tinning - this is crucial 3. Thank-you for showing that it is OK to clean the tip with a wet sponge. It irritates me when I see comments from people saying, "Don't do it because it causes micro-fractures in the tip". Yeah, and?? 4. Thank-you also for showing to wet the tip (with solder). Again, it irritates me when I hear people saying that it's a bad practise. NO, it is excellent practise to do so! 5. Heat control. Pre-heat the larger of the 2 surfaces to be soldered, first. Again, contrary to what many people say, micro-managing heat is not wrong, it is indeed a good and safe practice, especially for newbies. Trust me, I've been too cocky at times (I'm sure we all have, at some point, if we're truely honest) and screwed up! Don't be put off with what others say - Daniele has it spot on!
I spent my younger years 70s and early 80s sitting in my dad's workshop, he was a TV and radio engineer and taught me so much about wiring, soldering , diagrams etc, I have taught my son now and it's great to see a video like this for those who didn't get the experience I did.
Sounds cool. I taught myself soldering by taking advices from the hobbyist forums, watched some soldering videos on UA-cam, and made lotsa mistakes along the way to gain all the knowledge and skills that I need since more than 10 years ago. I'm glad that I am already aware of all the mistakes mentioned in this video, and I do even have some better methods to do certain things mentioned in the video. Keep learning!
As a beginner, music and no verbal explanation couldn’t distract from the excellent tutorial information in this video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
As someone totally new this was incredibly helpful and easy to understand because of the structure of the video I could easily skip the little bits I understood without fear of missing something essential. Anyone complaining is either just a complain addict or is too advanced for this video. It was incredibly helpful for someone who has never held a soldering iron more than once.
My dad taught me soldering 25 years ago, so glad that with all the thumbs up I could see he taught me the right way. Really nice clip to show new people the best practices. Really enjoyed
Even people not interested in soldering would watch such an entertaining video. Months back I watched this video (then I was not interested in soldering because I didn't need to). But now I am interested (because I have to solder something that would need to be just repaired, not thrown away and buy new one) 🙂🙂
Yes my grandfather taught me when I was 10, and he is the only source I learned from. Still matched perfectly with the video, I've been doing it right.
I was not getting any notifications for new -replies on this comment- comments/replies on this video Just some time ago (just minutes) I soldered a small piece of wire which was broken from a usb cable. Such a nice coincidence I got a new notification now (2021 October 5 GMT +5:30, 6:48 pm) 😂😂
Nice video. A must see for those new to soldering. I built a Heathkit stereo tuner/amplifier as a teen, and was lucky to have my father as a coach/advisor. He was a radar/electronics tech in the navy. He taught me all of the above techniques, which still serve me well more than 50 years later. 👍
This is excellent. I wish I could have viewed this video 45 years ago. As an apprentice, my tradesmen allowed me to learn by making mistakes. They are not stupid mistakes, but it would be stupid to make them if you could learn from a video like this.
Great video - I watched it at 1.5x speed which was about right. The best thing is you aren't just saying "don't do this" you actually show why not, especially with the invisible oxidization. So yeah, I've learned a few things about soldering, thanks!
Your comment: I watched it at 1.5x speed. I wasn't aware that you could set your you tube player to play faster than normal speed. How did you do that?
Brilliant video, thanks. At age 59 I just realized how many things I have done wrong my entire life and why I so often battle making good clean connections. I wish I watched this video a week ago as three days ago I soldered speaker cable connections and repeatedly made the very mistakes as highlighted in your video due to incorrect tip sizes and overheating.
I can't believe how many people are complaining about the emoji you used in your video. What a bunch of babies. Great work, thank you for taking the time to make the video.
ive been learning to solder properly for the pass years and i found the easy solution..find solder paste..much easier to solder and clean even for newbie
Very well done and insightful. I was a production manager and taught many people proper soldering techniques for over 50 yrs and also have written procedure guidelines. Your video would have been a great training aid.
It is about time someone made this video! I see so many crafters and electronic builders online doing it the wrong way! I guess in today’s world shop classes aren’t a thing, back in the 1960’s in electrical and electronics shop classes that was the first hands on thing we learned!
Forty years being a technician, the rule is, Heat, then Solder when hot enough, the more Heat to flow. Works every time, spent time as an instructor in the military.
@@bgaming181 When I got assigned to the 436 MAC Air Wing, I worked the Computer shop and had to take the Soldering class. Passed that with flying colors, they let me do depot work on base, because my soldering was better than some at depot. i later worked with engineers building prototype boards, they came to me usually when they needed something soldered. years of practice ,and it all comes down to Head the joint, melt the solder and heat to flow. Works every time,.
I taught in Huntsville at the US Army Ordnance, Missiles and Munitions Center and School. I work with prop electronics now. I've searched far and wide for tutorials that could help out the DIY guys. Aside from the old tutorials from Pace, I've yet to see a video that showed the proper techniques. Now it's common to put solder on the pad first, reheat it and then shove a wire into it. Nobody seems to want to do things right, just fast.
@@scarecrowsworkshop8526, I was in Huntsville for a few weeks before I got relocated. I got put in military prison for smuggling a soldering iron tip to my roommate. He needed a good tip to get a passing grade. I inserted the tip up my rectum and gave it to him, but he was caught taking it out of his pocket right before his test. Both of us were young and foolish. I had a slightly burned rectum and he had a “crappy” iron tip. Simpler times.
You guy just rock! This is the most usefull video i could see about soldering. I'm 51 yo and had to solder quite often since i was like 10 yo, but never got so logical and clear explainations on how to do it really right. Your video covers and explains any failure i encountered. This is not only a "what you must not do", but just a perfect "howto". You made my day! Great Thanks, respect, congrats.
Thank you for this video. I've been having such a hard time transitioning from soldering wires into soldering PCB components....I didn't realize I was in over my head so much. I made no less than 4 of those mistakes.... Ty for the help, Manitoba, Canada
When I was in the USAF, I had a whole week of classes on the proper procedures of soldering. And they taught me a great amount of info just like this vlog. I sure miss those days. Sure was a good feeling to tear into aircraft electronics and to properly reconnect the components with soldering. And our irons had a whole bunch smaller tips.We were taught that hiprocess soldering is the only way to go, and it will save a ton of solder. I saw a clip of electronic soldering, they put the components on the breadboard and pass it over a pool of solder, bingo all done!
@@joshhayl7459 Actually it's wave soldering. Reflow involves stencils and solder paste., placing components and then controlled heating of the board in an oven. Wave is typicaly used for through-hole designs, and reflow for surface-mount designs.
Yeah same here. I was always fighting like crazy soldering with tin on the tip with 0 flux making terrible connections. Now I just tested proper soldering and im in love, it takes just few seconds to make perfect soldering. Now I wonder how I passed electronic school and soldering class?
This video is practical and useful for anyone. Even though I’ve been use a soldering iron personally as well as professionally for many years, I am still making the same mistakes. Two thumbs up, and many thanks.
This video has helped tremendously. I knew some basics of soldering, but it helped me further understand the process of oxidation, proper use of flux, and nice soldering techniques. Thanks!
Solder keeps a constant temperature variant between the two contacts. I was wondering why the solder would either over heat or the wires coating would melt. First try after I watched your video, I made my 1st professional looking solder job! Thank you 🙏 Keep it up 👍 I’m trying to teach my boys a trade of any kind. It’s dying arts in our society.
Thank you for this video. I don't do a lot of soldering but I've been commiting most of these mistakes. The close up shots were perfect to show what's going on.
Good tips. I would add, the flux in the solder sometimes isn't enough. A little added flux prevents the result at 4:30, 10:00 and 11:33. I was taught that I should be able to see each strand of wire when fully coated. Less solder is better. 5:07 and 15:08 in preferable to 13:43 and the first image at 11:30. As for the second image at 11:30, I was taught he wire should be tinned under the insulation. You can't here because the wire uses cheap plastic insulation. 7:13 the first image is preferable in the amount of solder, but is worse in the proper tinning of the wire and the placement. 11:43 C44 should look closer to C43. A little but of flux allows you to use less solder and get it to flow properly. A little brag. I once replaced a three pin chip smaller than these at 11:30 in an Icom dual-band handheld transceiver. It didn't work correctly as Icom sent the wrong part. They had it for two months before they found the problem. Icom techs couldn't tell it had been replaced.
To elaborate on this post: You need flux that can be applied independently of that contained in the solder wire (the tin). In this video, the tin must be applied to each connection just to get the flux. This often leads to too much solder being applied, and it will frequently drip off the connection. This is not good! You can find an article that explains this is great detail by searching: "docgreen woodturner soldering". If you do not use flux from a can as described, you will always be working at a disadvantage. "You can't solder without flux."
@@clarencegreen3071thanks a lot! I'm brand new to this stuff and I had no idea.. the idea with Flux makes perfect sense along with what this person said about the less solder needed, the better. Using too much would cause a lot (well more than necessary) of resistance in the electrical current right..? Are there any other tips you guys have?
@@smilemore1997 Electrically, the only definition of "too much" solder is when the solder bridges pins or insulation in some way. Otherwise it's just a neatness issue. For any given conductor, resistance is an inverse product of cross-sectional area, (that's physics) so actually a wider bit of solder will be of lower resistance than a "just enough" bit. Not that it makes any practicable difference when soldering two ends of wire together as the "length" of the soldered part is far too short to matter. Where it does help to use as much solder as will neatly fit is when soldering a wire inside a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical connector, such as you'll often find in an RCA or XLR plug for example, as seen in 05:16 of this video.
Excellent video ! I watched it through, just to see if there was something I could pick up to improve my technique. I was relieved to see I was only making 9 of these mistakes. I often wondered why I would go through between 10 to 75' feet of solder, trying to secure two wires, only to wind up twisting them together and using tape, but AFTER cutting away all wire with melted insulation. Apparently, cleaning tip with belt sander or bench grinder isn't a preferred method either, although I never got enough solder to stick to necessitate cleaning anyway. I see now why you didn't mention the shoe damage I though everyone incurred from melted, unattached solder that falls on feet, the floor and the unsuspecting cat. Thanks for sharing these great tips. I suspect I can benefit from a few. 🤔
Yeah, I learned to put the cat in the other room now and I close the door. As soon as I take out the Weller, he scurries into the other room on his own now anyway. Also, I notify my local fire department two weeks in advance if I’m planning on doin’ any welding. Finally, my wife told me if I even attempt to weld another propane gas tank, that she was moving in with her sister... :P
Good and informative video and I would like to ad two or three more important tips. 11: ALWAYS clean the surface you are going to solder with Isopropanol (if corroded first use a fine(!) steel wool sponge, like in the video and/or DeOxit or similar to take away the rest of the dirt). 12: ALWAYS lead the heat away. When soldering a RCA male, connect a RCA female to the RCA male to lead heat away to void overheating. 13: NEVER hold the wire in your hand when soldering to a connector or anything else or you have a bad joint. Use a vise/third hand. If the surface is not completely clean, you have problems and don't let you be fooled by something looking shiny, even a new connector/wire etc. are not clean! PS: clean your iron with every new soldering or the soldering will be contaminated and weak.
Thank you for this, I watched a lot of guides. Most were telling you what TO DO, but not really covering the small things that are bad to do. I would pre-tin my tip and if there was too much solder, I'd try and glob it onto the component slot without using more solder... instead of wiping it off and applying fresh solder to both. I was also wedging the solder (which isn't too bad) between the component and the iron, and it's definitely MUCH easier to put the iron behind the wire, and apply solder to the front of the wire.
finally a soldering satisfation video will keep coming back just to watch this video , it gives immense satisfaction to see the job being done right. 👍
When tin or soldering stranded wire, nothing beats a little flux. Just a fleck on the work causes it to drink up the solder like a sponge. It's the only time (that I know of) that it's standard practice to load the tip and touch it to the work. There's a brief pause, you hear a slight sizzle, and the molten solder disappears from the tip and uniformly coats the strands of wire. Very satisfying. Same goes for soldering connectors. Just a bit of flux at the joint, then press the wetted tip to one side and the solder wire to the other. Instant good, strong bond.
This is the most helpful video I’ve ever seen in my life. Y’all don’t understand when I say I was doing everything wrong. I thought it was going to be easy like soldering copper pipes but nurp🤦♂️
Wow, I am old, I make all of those mistakes. I wondered why some days was beautiful solder and other days was crap. 💩 I didnt know it is all in the intricate details of transference of the heat. Thanks for the education to an old man
i used to be terrible at soldering . there was a time when i used those plastic terrible irons and thought that soldering was hard . however , i have a professional soldering tip with which i burned it with fire and turned out to solder so smoothly . after that , i bought a new soldering iron but still was bad at soldering . few months later , that soldering stopped working , so i bought the same one again and then learned how to properly solder . thanks for the video
2:32 You should NEVER have a sponge soaking wet like that when soldering! You are going to thermal shock your tip and prematurely break it. If you want to use a sponge you should ring it out before using. Slightly damp is better than soaking wet!
Sorry to say but I once had a soldering iron manufacturer's technical training (I had training to repair them) and soaking sponge is exactly what they recommend. If the sponge is only slightly damp, the part in contact with the soldering iron will boil dry and burn, carbonizing the tip and slowly damaging it. On the other hand, using soaked sponge, the thermal shock and steam explosion will crack any solder and dirt and get the tip cleaner without the abrasion of steel wool or so. As long as you clean the tinned tip only it will be fine. The only thing where you don't want to have a big thermal shock is the heater element that can break on thermal shock. So, the publisher is right on this one!
@@carlosalves2485 "If the sponge is only slightly damp" But in this video that is just not the case - he is drowning it. "So, the publisher is right on this one!" He objectively is not.
@@ABaumstumpf the way we do it is ensure that the sponge is wet but not dripping so the tip comes in to contact with a wet sponge but not water. A sponge soaked in water is different to a soaking wet sponge.
Please note that some soldering iron bits are/ were made of copper which after a while became pitted due to the flux eating the bit, this pitting can be removed by light sanding on a abrasive material to create a flat surface. So if the bit is made of copper feel free to file it slightly.
My early tips were like this. Most tips I have used in the last decades are steel clad and pretinned. When retinning it usually works best when the iron is not to full heat. This is before new oxidation occurs and the solder will tend to stick and not just roll off as it does on a very hot iron.
From the title I supposed this was about stupid things electronic specialists used to do but the fact is that this is actually a fine tutorial on welding that really explains almost all that a welder needs to do. Fine work here!
Frankly speaking these aren't tricks, but general rules of soldering. Well, except of "Fresh" solder, which is nonsense. There is no such thing as fresh or old solder, but there is flux which you should always use, doesn't matter if it comes inside the solder wire or no
THANK YOU! I did my first soldering project a couple months ago, creating a customer strip of LED lighting for a bookshelf, and I found it very difficult. From your video, I can see the two issues I was fighting with. 1. the LED strips were either oxidized or had a clear coat on them (I think I kinda figured this out on my own because I ended up lightly scraping the contacts with a razer to get them to solder to adhere, but I thought I was creating a texture for the solder to grab on to) 2. I didn't pre-tin the wires. Now I am excited to start another project!
🟦 Another tip would be to get a tin of flux and keep a toothpick in it to apply it when you're soldering to reflux a joint instead of applying more solder when all you need is flux.
Addition to #6: The rag used to help cool down the tip quicker absolutely MUST be made of a material that won't melt or burn when putting the iron on/into it, otherwise you'll ruin your tip with melted plastic all over it, which would be a mess and very difficult to clean up!
Sometimes you do need to crash the heat in the tip, usually with a "dumb iron" especially when moving between large and small components. That being said, you definitely dont want it sopping wet. If it spatters theres too much water.
When using a tip for the first time always apply solder to the tip as the tip heats up. After soldering a joint, do not wipe the tip on the sponge before placing the iron back into the holder because the solder on the tip will prevent oxidisation of the tip.
Sponge + Water = thermal shock, leads to create micro-cracks on your tips. It also makes your tip cool down too much, hardening flux residus on it that won't be cleaned up with the sponge. Last but not least regular tap water has many ionic impurities and minerals which will react with the soldering iron tips. Best advice is to clean it up with a metallic sponge like you said on the point just before, and never remove solder form the tip when you disconnect your soldering iron. This will help preserve it when the metal will have cooled down and hardened and protect the tip. Next time you use it, let it warm up and clean it before next use.
At my last employer, we left the irons on all day (off at night) and used sponges for tip cleaning, but our water is hard and they got stiff. A simple change to grocery story distilled water stopped that in its tracks.
Thank you! I graduated electronics engineering yet I only know how to solder by learning from my mistakes. This is very helpful for others who wants to learn how to do a clean soldering.
Great video, you nailed it. many years ago when i was a teenager, i did those mistakes. after while i learned how to solder. now i'm an engineer, i teach my students how to solder properly. i will show my student your video.
80W old czech transformer solderin iron (trafopajka) - still best for me when working out of workshop. And in the workshop, 30+ years old Tesla ERS 50 soldering station is my preferable way to go.
Yes, my Czechoslovak transformer soldering iron TRP-1 from 1955 still does job really well, you can even do SMD with it, if you make your self good thin wire tip. Also heating from 0-300C in 2 seconds isn't bad. But for small things is best Tesla ESR 50 from 70-80. Funny thing is, that these things will be on this world longer then us and still be working like new :D
Another couple of tips: 1. get a decent soldering iron. 2. solder as shortly as possible. -> no baking. As for your tip #10: indeed, right temperature and quick action will avoid damage. However, I think that that plug did not have a Teflon insulator. More likely Nylon or PVC or so.
The plug was likely PTFE (Teflon). He's happily cooking away at 400°C, and PTFE melts at 327°C - apparently. Agreed on the no cooking. If you have a temperature controlled iron, setting the upper temperature means that is where it stops. So many people with the right equipment running 400-450°C, using only time as their protective measure; a 2 second linger can be disastrous. Worst case I've seen, is watching nearby point-to-point undoing itself from the excessive heat. Not me, I might add.
If your life depends on 10 minutes, then don't watch all. I mean seriously, 10 minutes is too much? You can watch stupid action movie with Schwarcenegger for hours, but not practical advices for 16 minutes?
ikr these tips are good but why 1. Don't make that mistake 2. Don't make that mistake 3. Don't make that mistake 4. Don't make that mistake 5. Don't make that mistake 6. Don't make that mistake . . weird format. im agree this kind of video doesnt need to be long
Brilliant video, I was an electronic engineer of many years until I retired and that was 100% brilliant advice. Just one small criticism..... At 14:27 you soldered a wire into an XT60 connector but broke your own rule 5 (at 5:18) - you didn't pre-tin the wire or connector terminal
8:15 If you want to check the temperature of anything by touch - use the back of your fingers. If it's too hot you will only burn your knuckles, there are fewer neves in the back of your finger so it wont hurt so much, and you will still be able to use your fingers. If you burn the pads of your fingers it will hurt a lot more and you might not be able to work for days. But even better, be patient and let it cool down and don't burn anything.
Actually, 6:23, which I believe is being presented as a GOOD connector joint, is classic as an example of a BAD joint. It was soldered into the connector by heaping melted solder into the connector in the "paste" condition (insufficient heat and flow). You can in fact tell it is a bad joint because the solder is NOT shiny and has an oatmeal appearance. This joint needs to be given flux and reheated. When solder has not reached sufficient heat to leave its "plastic" state and enter a liquid state, it will have an uneven surface appearance and not reflect light well. Rule: if the joint is not shiny and it does not curve inwards (show wetting behavior as a liquid) it is NOT a good joint! Also in 6:41 you say "the result will be bad if you don't use new tin" (referring to solder). NO NO NO. You are not adding "tin" (or solder) what you are doing is adding flux from the core of the solder. If you play with a joint to much, and the flux is evaporated, then you need to add flux to make the solder flow. Most techs get this wrong. If you think you are "adding fresh solder", you will just end up putting too much solder on the joint, then you need to clean it up to get a good joint (remove solder). Unfortunately, because flux is a part of the solder, most techs don't understand what flux is and how it works. If you add flux (and JUST flux) to a bad joint using a flux pen or liquid from a bottle with a brush, you will see the joint clean up and flow, leaving (again) and shiny surface. DON'T use paste flux if you can find liquid. Rework specialists (people who do repair on industrial PCBs) use liquid flux from a bottle, which is much easier to control and gives good results. 7:15 laying down a wire on the board only attached by solder is BAD practice and would be rejected in an industrial setting. The rule is: parts are joined mechanically FIRST then by solder SECOND (yes, I am aware SMDs break that rule). There was a hole in that board for a reason. The stripped wire should have been inserted in the hole first. Pedantic? Here is WHY: the amount of force it takes to RIP that solder pad off the PCB is far far (far) less than the force it would take to pull the wire out of the soldered pad. Its asking for failure later. At 10:07 the video maker makes another mistake due to misunderstanding of the plastic vs. liquid state of solder. He is creating little hills of solder to cover the holes in the PCB. He appears to understand quite well what he is doing, because as soon as the solder melts, he piles it on and quickly moves to the next hole. The solder forming those mounds is in the plastic state! Otherwise it would wick and leave the hole open! The result is a joint that had to be reheated, and probably refluxed when it actually has to connect to something. Notice at 10:09 he actually got it to bridge two holes doing this! At 11:55 he gives you a great example of how NOT to solder SMDs. He got a smaller iron, which is good, but the solder was simply heaped on the part in its plastic phase. Look at the joint on C44 vs C43! C43, the manufactured SMD joint, is wetted and shows a nice curve from the part to the PCB. C44, the one the video maker reworked, is a big ball of solder with no wetting to speak of. A ball of solder could also indicate too much solder, but in this case it is both: too much solder and the person doing it moved on too rapidly and didn't let the solder get to the liquid state. Replay this scene a couple of times. Notice how you see the solder actually FLASH from shiny to dull when it cools. this is the solder crystallizing, and is a classic sign of a bad (what we call a "cold solder joint"). The metal is TALKING to you. You need to listen.
Scott, you critic of the video is perfect. The video itself is not so bad, but a bit overdone, event for non professionals, but hat off for making the video in the first place. Regarding SMD soldering: Personally I prefer solder paste, which you put on from an injection thingy and then heat with an airflow solder iron.
Hello Scott, you do understand soldering, and explain it well. I'm mostly a welder, there are many things that cross over. In welding, it is obvious that oxides can't be part of the equation. Mig is more forgiving, if one is good, there is quite a bit of manipulation that can be done when things have to happen and the right components aren't available, but one doesn't bring a 1/4" rod to weld 16 gauge material, when stick welding or use 0.025 wire to weld 1" plate. This is just common sense. I was somewhat surprised that no flux by itself was ever mentioned. Again parallel with welding, "flux" has to be there, whether in the form of shielding gas, powdered, or inside of the electrode. I would like to ask for your opinion on my approach, I clean the parts, use a tinning flux, sometimes add bit of solder, but when the parts are put together and I press with the hot iron is almost instantly that the pieces " flow" together. In welding quite a bit can be told by observing the bead profile. Humpy edges are a sign of cold welding or unless there is way too much material that is being deposited but moving the bead along will be problematic. The same humps that you pointed out. As far as not using sandpaper on the tip I will have to disagree, some of the tips that I have has craters on it and sometimes I begin with a file then all the way down to some 400 grit paper and the tip will look like a mirror when that solder " grabs on". Thanks for the rational approach and pointing out the parts that may be improved.
@@dveloso150 There's a lot to talk about here. First, you are so correct that flux separate from solder is the best way to work. Other uses, like plumbing, use lots of flux, usually in paste form, and it is common to use solder without cores (no flux inside). In electronics, techs have been sold on the idea that the flux core solders are all you need, and if a joint does not flow, hit it with more solder. This just creates mounds of solder, and usually pulling out the cooper wick to get rid of it, usually causing more damage. For contrast, professional rework techs at large manufacturing concerns have bottles of liquid flux. For the idea of apply flux then heat, yes, I do that do to joints to reflow. Heating a joint first, with a little bit of solder to effect heat transfer, then applying solder, is using the idea that the joint must reach the melting temperature of solder before the joint is completed, and I teach that method as well. Its more psychology than physics, since you are teaching techs that joints are not proper unless the solder melts at the liquid phase. It also teaches you a lot about the plastic phase of solder, since you know very well when you are just pasting solder onto a joint instead of having it flow. Finally, I, as well, used to "file down" my iron. But I noticed that with modern temperature controlled irons, this does not happen. I have a suspicion that the flux on the iron, combined with the fact that it overheats dramatically when sitting between joints, was what caused the corrosion. One last PS. I have mixed feelings about people who do soldering/brazing of large parts vs. electronics. Soldering large objects teaches you a lot about things like flux and proper heat that you don't get from tiny electronic joints. If you solder (for example) copper pipe, you UNDERSTAND soldering. Watching a copper fitting suck up solder is really a wonder. At the same time, electronic and large copper soldering are two very different things, and unfortunately, many large copper soldering vets keep that idea that soldering is like making a sandwich, ie., stick all the materials together and heat. Regards, Scott Franco
@@scottfranco1962 thanks for your comment. I'm here after watching the Pace basic soldering videos from the '70s - '80s and sometimes it's not clear to a beginner who's really doing it right. Comments like yours can help others navigate the sea of information at our fingertips these days.
I have been solder certified for over 20 years and I found the hardest part of solder is rework on ICS and other multi legged components that are coated with protective coating.
If possible, I usually try to pre-tin both surfaces before I join them; the solder joint will flow in a lot easier, especially for "problem" joints or ones with large heat-dissipative conductors.
Hey.. Buddy.. Some of the tips which you have have shown can distroy the IRON'S BIT. One of them is the wet sponge method which you have shown... It give instant cold sock to the soldering iron beat which can lead the bit toward damage soon. Nice practice anyway.
What you call “abrasive sponges” are made of brass. Brass is an alloy whose hardness is lower than what the soldering iron's tip is made of (most often copper plated with iron and nickel), therefore a brass sponge cannot damage the soldering iron's tip and is the top choice for cleaning the iron's tip because damp sponges, while valid, take a lot more heat away from the iron's tip.
I second that, since i knew about those brass sponges, never went back to using a wet sponge, for some $3 those: -Have the pieces of tin and debris fall to the bottom of the support, instead of staying on the surface of the sponge to be pick-up again at a next pass. -Are more practical: doesn't need cleaning, and obviously no water. -Doens't cold the tip -About wear, as they're of lower hardness than the tip as you pointed out, i'd think they actually induce less wear on the iron tip, than the thermal shock+maybe slight oxidation from contact with water from the sponge. Maybe there are (soldering some exotics alloys that wouldn't like brass?), but I can't really see any use case where a wet sponge would be better than a brass sponge.
@@laceymeyers2273 The video author says you can use steel wool *very gently*, but i'd advice against, as they might be too hard and still potentially scratch, and also much more dense so the debris won't fall off at the bottom as nicely as with a brass sponge designed for the purpose.
Try cleaning a circuit board in-situ with wire-wool and see how many short-circuits you can leave behind thanks to the detritus from the wire-wool! Instead, try using the "Ink" end of a "pencil/Ink" eraser - any fragments of the eraser left behind won't be conductive.
🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹 SEI ITALIANO?
Se vuoi vedere tutti i video di questo canale, mano a mano che saranno pubblicati ma in italiano, seguimi al mio canale ufficiale italiano: ua-cam.com/channels/rLeLEhuZWoq5viMj8Mr1Tw.html
Ok grazie, che tipo di camera usi per filmare?
Perché si vede molto bene
Bravo
@@Luis-Rodrigo ho una canon eos 6D mk2 e una Sony alpha 7 iii
@@DanieleTartaglia bhai
@@DanieleTartaglia no 2 tip is
@@DanieleTartaglia mehu kargaya
1. Don't put your soldering on the table, put in in a holder
2. Use a sponge not something invasive
3. use fresh tin for soldering
4. Don't forget to add tin to your tip
5. Don't forget to pre tin element you want to solder
6. Don't put your solder in water
7. Don't solder oxydate metal part.
8. use a fan so u don't have the fume in your face
9. Don't use large tip on small component
10. use the right temperature.
11. Dont use to big or to small tin
Thanks me later.
thank you
Later is now. Thank you
12. Don't watch videos to learn
Can you please make a Podcast talking about these? ;-)
.... that's it? Yeah this was a waste then.
i have been soldering for 50 years and have been j-standard certified in the aerospace industry and this video is a very good representation of proper soldering and explains in good detail the dos and donts. good material!!
i watched it at 2× speed cause he put text for long time
@@reizinhodojogo3956 WHO??!!
....gives a fuck?
@@huinaguo a joint standard soldering specialist dip stick!!
Been soldering for years on all kinds of projects and just learned additional tricks....one can never stop learning...thanks
Yeah. We learn things till the moment we pass away 🙂. Keeping that in mind is a good sign of agreeing that others too are wise.
Please correct my grammar, if I made any mistake 🙂🙂
This video is a MUST SEE for anyone who swings an iron. Brilliant job, Daniele!
My top 5 favourite tips from your video are:
1. Clean surfaces are a must
2. Pre-tinning - this is crucial
3. Thank-you for showing that it is OK to clean the tip with a wet sponge. It irritates me when I see comments from people saying, "Don't do it because it causes micro-fractures in the tip". Yeah, and??
4. Thank-you also for showing to wet the tip (with solder). Again, it irritates me when I hear people saying that it's a bad practise. NO, it is excellent practise to do so!
5. Heat control. Pre-heat the larger of the 2 surfaces to be soldered, first. Again, contrary to what many people say, micro-managing heat is not wrong, it is indeed a good and safe practice, especially for newbies. Trust me, I've been too cocky at times (I'm sure we all have, at some point, if we're truely honest) and screwed up!
Don't be put off with what others say - Daniele has it spot on!
Yes the object of soldering is the transfer of heat from the tip though the solder on the tip to the component and pad.
Duh!
I spent my younger years 70s and early 80s sitting in my dad's workshop, he was a TV and radio engineer and taught me so much about wiring, soldering , diagrams etc, I have taught my son now and it's great to see a video like this for those who didn't get the experience I did.
What does soldering do?
That's cool
@@reekrodriqguez6552 I guess you didn't watch the video then 🤣
Makes solid connections between components and pads, and in plumbing or wiring, strong connections to other wires and pipes etc. @@reekrodriqguez6552
Sounds cool. I taught myself soldering by taking advices from the hobbyist forums, watched some soldering videos on UA-cam, and made lotsa mistakes along the way to gain all the knowledge and skills that I need since more than 10 years ago. I'm glad that I am already aware of all the mistakes mentioned in this video, and I do even have some better methods to do certain things mentioned in the video. Keep learning!
As a beginner, music and no verbal explanation couldn’t distract from the excellent tutorial information in this video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Showing me how to get water into a sponge was a real neat trick, very absorbing.
Funny...
I found it very refreshing as well.
i saw what you wrote there...
I feel bad for the people who couldn't figure that one out
And also how to remove excess water.
As someone totally new this was incredibly helpful and easy to understand because of the structure of the video I could easily skip the little bits I understood without fear of missing something essential. Anyone complaining is either just a complain addict or is too advanced for this video. It was incredibly helpful for someone who has never held a soldering iron more than once.
As a newby I agree. I could actually see what he was doing. Watched without Ads. Very helpful. Thx.
My dad taught me soldering 25 years ago, so glad that with all the thumbs up I could see he taught me the right way.
Really nice clip to show new people the best practices. Really enjoyed
Even people not interested in soldering would watch such an entertaining video. Months back I watched this video (then I was not interested in soldering because I didn't need to). But now I am interested (because I have to solder something that would need to be just repaired, not thrown away and buy new one)
🙂🙂
Yes my grandfather taught me when I was 10, and he is the only source I learned from. Still matched perfectly with the video, I've been doing it right.
I was not getting any notifications for new -replies on this comment- comments/replies on this video
Just some time ago (just minutes) I soldered a small piece of wire which was broken from a usb cable.
Such a nice coincidence I got a new notification now (2021 October 5 GMT +5:30, 6:48 pm)
😂😂
If u have more to discuss do share. I have problem with mini wiries like of charging jack
GOOD ! OLD ! PLUMBERS ! BIT !! HEY !! THE !! BEST !! THERE !! EVER ! WAS !!
Nice video. A must see for those new to soldering. I built a Heathkit stereo tuner/amplifier as a teen, and was lucky to have my father as a coach/advisor. He was a radar/electronics tech in the navy. He taught me all of the above techniques, which still serve me well more than 50 years later. 👍
you should teach others that useful knowledge if you can :)
thank you
Thx so much for these tips! I've been soldering stuff for over 35 years and still learned something :)
This is excellent. I wish I could have viewed this video 45 years ago. As an apprentice, my tradesmen allowed me to learn by making mistakes. They are not stupid mistakes, but it would be stupid to make them if you could learn from a video like this.
Great video - I watched it at 1.5x speed which was about right. The best thing is you aren't just saying "don't do this" you actually show why not, especially with the invisible oxidization. So yeah, I've learned a few things about soldering, thanks!
Your comment: I watched it at 1.5x speed. I wasn't aware that you could set your you tube player to play faster than normal speed. How did you do that?
@@poorboymechanic5280 Click on the little cog/sprocket for settings.
@@robman80808 Thank you very much Sir. Much appreciated 👍.
Brilliant video, thanks. At age 59 I just realized how many things I have done wrong my entire life and why I so often battle making good clean connections. I wish I watched this video a week ago as three days ago I soldered speaker cable connections and repeatedly made the very mistakes as highlighted in your video due to incorrect tip sizes and overheating.
I can't believe how many people are complaining about the emoji you used in your video. What a bunch of babies. Great work, thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Every now and then I run across something really worth watching on UA-cam. Thanks for this video. You have made my life better.
ive been learning to solder properly for the pass years and i found the easy solution..find solder paste..much easier to solder and clean even for newbie
Very well done and insightful. I was a production manager and taught many people proper soldering techniques for over 50 yrs and also have written procedure guidelines. Your video would have been a great training aid.
It is about time someone made this video! I see so many crafters and electronic builders online doing it the wrong way! I guess in today’s world shop classes aren’t a thing, back in the 1960’s in electrical and electronics shop classes that was the first hands on thing we learned!
thank you you just taught this 59-year-old plumber some techniques in electrical soldering thanks again
Forty years being a technician, the rule is, Heat, then Solder when hot enough, the more Heat to flow. Works every time, spent time as an instructor in the military.
I was forced to touch the iron tip of an old When iron when I burned a circuit board in the military back in ‘78. Will never forget it!
@@bgaming181 When I got assigned to the 436 MAC Air Wing, I worked the Computer shop and had to take the Soldering class. Passed that with flying colors, they let me do depot work on base, because my soldering was better than some at depot. i later worked with engineers building prototype boards, they came to me usually when they needed something soldered. years of practice ,and it all comes down to Head the joint, melt the solder and heat to flow. Works every time,.
I taught in Huntsville at the US Army Ordnance, Missiles and Munitions Center and School. I work with prop electronics now. I've searched far and wide for tutorials that could help out the DIY guys. Aside from the old tutorials from Pace, I've yet to see a video that showed the proper techniques. Now it's common to put solder on the pad first, reheat it and then shove a wire into it. Nobody seems to want to do things right, just fast.
@@scarecrowsworkshop8526, I was in Huntsville for a few weeks before I got relocated. I got put in military prison for smuggling a soldering iron tip to my roommate. He needed a good tip to get a passing grade. I inserted the tip up my rectum and gave it to him, but he was caught taking it out of his pocket right before his test. Both of us were young and foolish. I had a slightly burned rectum and he had a “crappy” iron tip. Simpler times.
@@bgaming181 glad it turned out alright, in the end.
Some very helpful tips. I now realize why I've had so many problems over the years on the few occasions I've needed to solder something. Thank you!!!
You guy just rock!
This is the most usefull video i could see about soldering. I'm 51 yo and had to solder quite often since i was like 10 yo, but never got so logical and clear explainations on how to do it really right.
Your video covers and explains any failure i encountered.
This is not only a "what you must not do", but just a perfect "howto".
You made my day!
Great Thanks, respect, congrats.
Thank you for this video. I've been having such a hard time transitioning from soldering wires into soldering PCB components....I didn't realize I was in over my head so much. I made no less than 4 of those mistakes....
Ty for the help,
Manitoba, Canada
I'm glad I watched this! It helped me identify why some of my solder joints were not performing as expected. Excellent information!
ua-cam.com/video/1zrQfqHvDXU/v-deo.html
I've been doing it the wrong way all this time. And it worked. But I didn't put it on the tin first, then on the wire. Excellent advice.
When I was in the USAF, I had a whole week of classes on the proper procedures of soldering. And they taught me a great amount of info just like this vlog. I sure miss those days. Sure was a good feeling to tear into aircraft electronics and to properly reconnect the components with soldering. And our irons had a whole bunch smaller tips.We were taught that hiprocess soldering is the only way to go, and it will save a ton of solder. I saw a clip of electronic soldering, they put the components on the breadboard and pass it over a pool of solder, bingo all done!
🟦 That process is referred to as "Reflow"-soldering.
@@joshhayl7459 Actually it's wave soldering. Reflow involves stencils and solder paste., placing components and then controlled heating of the board in an oven. Wave is typicaly used for through-hole designs, and reflow for surface-mount designs.
of all the soldering videos i have watched, over 20, this is the first one to point out putting soldier on tip makes a better heat transfer. ty!
I seldom see any author of this kind of video actually knows how to solder well.
This one is so good.
I have learned more in the last 15 minutes or so than I have in years. Great video.
Yeah same here. I was always fighting like crazy soldering with tin on the tip with 0 flux making terrible connections. Now I just tested proper soldering and im in love, it takes just few seconds to make perfect soldering. Now I wonder how I passed electronic school and soldering class?
This video is practical and useful for anyone. Even though I’ve been use a soldering iron personally as well as professionally for many years, I am still making the same mistakes. Two thumbs up, and many thanks.
This is literally the best soldering technique video I’ve seen on YT. … And I have seen a lot 😅
This video has helped tremendously. I knew some basics of soldering, but it helped me further understand the process of oxidation, proper use of flux, and nice soldering techniques. Thanks!
Solder keeps a constant temperature variant between the two contacts. I was wondering why the solder would either over heat or the wires coating would melt.
First try after I watched your video, I made my 1st professional looking solder job!
Thank you 🙏
Keep it up 👍
I’m trying to teach my boys a trade of any kind. It’s dying arts in our society.
Awesome video! I learned more in 10 minutes than I did in years of trying to solder and not understanding what I’ve been doing wrong. Thanks
ME TOO!
A picture is worth a thousand words and you nailed it. Clear and precise. Thank you!
While a good subject, the emojis, generic music, excessive length and no audible narration makes this video tedious.
How to make 2 minutes instruction movie lasts over 16 minutes...
And long video 👎
@John Hunyadi UA-cam has ads?
(looks up and sees ABP logo on address bar)...
Oh.
I had to run it at 2x playback speed just to stay awake.
Noise pollution
i have been terrible at soldering for my whole life, i know why now.. thank you
Thank you for this video. I don't do a lot of soldering but I've been commiting most of these mistakes. The close up shots were perfect to show what's going on.
Thanks!! Being self-taught (incorrectly), I failed on about half of these!!! Now, I can expect much better results!
Good tips.
I would add,
the flux in the solder sometimes isn't enough. A little added flux prevents the result at 4:30, 10:00 and 11:33.
I was taught that I should be able to see each strand of wire when fully coated. Less solder is better. 5:07 and 15:08 in preferable to 13:43 and the first image at 11:30.
As for the second image at 11:30, I was taught he wire should be tinned under the insulation. You can't here because the wire uses cheap plastic insulation.
7:13 the first image is preferable in the amount of solder, but is worse in the proper tinning of the wire and the placement.
11:43 C44 should look closer to C43. A little but of flux allows you to use less solder and get it to flow properly.
A little brag. I once replaced a three pin chip smaller than these at 11:30 in an Icom dual-band handheld transceiver. It didn't work correctly as Icom sent the wrong part. They had it for two months before they found the problem. Icom techs couldn't tell it had been replaced.
To elaborate on this post: You need flux that can be applied independently of that contained in the solder wire (the tin). In this video, the tin must be applied to each connection just to get the flux. This often leads to too much solder being applied, and it will frequently drip off the connection. This is not good!
You can find an article that explains this is great detail by searching: "docgreen woodturner soldering". If you do not use flux from a can as described, you will always be working at a disadvantage. "You can't solder without flux."
@@clarencegreen3071thanks a lot! I'm brand new to this stuff and I had no idea.. the idea with Flux makes perfect sense along with what this person said about the less solder needed, the better. Using too much would cause a lot (well more than necessary) of resistance in the electrical current right..? Are there any other tips you guys have?
@@smilemore1997 Electrically, the only definition of "too much" solder is when the solder bridges pins or insulation in some way. Otherwise it's just a neatness issue. For any given conductor, resistance is an inverse product of cross-sectional area, (that's physics) so actually a wider bit of solder will be of lower resistance than a "just enough" bit. Not that it makes any practicable difference when soldering two ends of wire together as the "length" of the soldered part is far too short to matter. Where it does help to use as much solder as will neatly fit is when soldering a wire inside a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical connector, such as you'll often find in an RCA or XLR plug for example, as seen in 05:16 of this video.
You can dip the hot iron tip right into the flux to clean it.
If that don't help then try the Ammonia Block - I've had great success with both.
The day i learned the importance of pre tinning wires was the day that changed my life. Nice tips!
Pretinning and flux is god sent things
Excellent video ! I watched it through, just to see if there was something I could pick up to improve my technique. I was relieved to see I was only making 9 of these mistakes. I often wondered why I would go through between 10 to 75' feet of solder, trying to secure two wires, only to wind up twisting them together and using tape, but AFTER cutting away all wire with melted insulation. Apparently, cleaning tip with belt sander or bench grinder isn't a preferred method either, although I never got enough solder to stick to necessitate cleaning anyway. I see now why you didn't mention the shoe damage I though everyone incurred from melted, unattached solder that falls on feet, the floor and the unsuspecting cat. Thanks for sharing these great tips. I suspect I can benefit from a few. 🤔
Another self thought solder man such as myself.
Yeah, I learned to put the cat in the other room now and I close the door. As soon as I take out the Weller, he scurries into the other room on his own now anyway. Also, I notify my local fire department two weeks in advance if I’m planning on doin’ any welding. Finally, my wife told me if I even attempt to weld another propane gas tank, that she was moving in with her sister...
:P
@@lgroschiensalle LMAO !! You had me with the cat, but the threat of your wife leaving caused me to choke on a drink !
😅
@@lgroschiensalle LMAO!!! 😂🤣 Priceless comment my friend ! I made the mistake of reading it aloud. My wife is on the phone with her sister now.
One of the best videos on soldering on UA-cam
The best soldering iron commercial I've seen, SOLD! This baby looks like it's worth every cent.
I know I'm buying one.
Good and informative video and I would like to ad two or three more important tips.
11: ALWAYS clean the surface you are going to solder with Isopropanol (if corroded first use a fine(!) steel wool sponge, like in the video and/or DeOxit or similar to take away the rest of the dirt).
12: ALWAYS lead the heat away. When soldering a RCA male, connect a RCA female to the RCA male to lead heat away to void overheating.
13: NEVER hold the wire in your hand when soldering to a connector or anything else or you have a bad joint. Use a vise/third hand.
If the surface is not completely clean, you have problems and don't let you be fooled by something looking shiny, even a new connector/wire etc. are not clean!
PS: clean your iron with every new soldering or the soldering will be contaminated and weak.
Thank you for this, I watched a lot of guides. Most were telling you what TO DO, but not really covering the small things that are bad to do. I would pre-tin my tip and if there was too much solder, I'd try and glob it onto the component slot without using more solder... instead of wiping it off and applying fresh solder to both. I was also wedging the solder (which isn't too bad) between the component and the iron, and it's definitely MUCH easier to put the iron behind the wire, and apply solder to the front of the wire.
Bravo Danielle Tartaglia, très beau tuto,
A l'avenir , j'éviterais bcp de mes erreurs à la soudure à l'étain.
Encore un grand MERCI !!!
Been loving your soldering tutorials. You have really helped me become a better solderer and it's greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Mgkano pO.
finally a soldering satisfation video will keep coming back just to watch this video , it gives immense satisfaction to see the job being done right. 👍
When tin or soldering stranded wire, nothing beats a little flux. Just a fleck on the work causes it to drink up the solder like a sponge. It's the only time (that I know of) that it's standard practice to load the tip and touch it to the work. There's a brief pause, you hear a slight sizzle, and the molten solder disappears from the tip and uniformly coats the strands of wire. Very satisfying. Same goes for soldering connectors. Just a bit of flux at the joint, then press the wetted tip to one side and the solder wire to the other. Instant good, strong bond.
This is the most helpful video I’ve ever seen in my life. Y’all don’t understand when I say I was doing everything wrong. I thought it was going to be easy like soldering copper pipes but nurp🤦♂️
Thank you for taking the time to share this clip with us.
Wow, I am old, I make all of those mistakes. I wondered why some days was beautiful solder and other days was crap. 💩 I didnt know it is all in the intricate details of transference of the heat. Thanks for the education to an old man
jaja buen comentario
Speed 2x, Audio mute, skip to the do's... Ahhh learnt New things without killing myself.
Yeah, I made it about 34 seconds in before I ran across my neighborhood and tackled Karen.
i used to be terrible at soldering . there was a time when i used those plastic terrible irons and thought that soldering was hard . however , i have a professional soldering tip with which i burned it with fire and turned out to solder so smoothly . after that , i bought a new soldering iron but still was bad at soldering . few months later , that soldering stopped working , so i bought the same one again and then learned how to properly solder . thanks for the video
2:32 You should NEVER have a sponge soaking wet like that when soldering! You are going to thermal shock your tip and prematurely break it. If you want to use a sponge you should ring it out before using. Slightly damp is better than soaking wet!
Crazy that his #2 is to use a completely soaked sponge, and then #6 is to not put your soldering iron in water.
Sorry to say but I once had a soldering iron manufacturer's technical training (I had training to repair them) and soaking sponge is exactly what they recommend.
If the sponge is only slightly damp, the part in contact with the soldering iron will boil dry and burn, carbonizing the tip and slowly damaging it.
On the other hand, using soaked sponge, the thermal shock and steam explosion will crack any solder and dirt and get the tip cleaner without the abrasion of steel wool or so.
As long as you clean the tinned tip only it will be fine. The only thing where you don't want to have a big thermal shock is the heater element that can break on thermal shock.
So, the publisher is right on this one!
@@carlosalves2485 "If the sponge is only slightly damp"
But in this video that is just not the case - he is drowning it.
"So, the publisher is right on this one!"
He objectively is not.
@@ABaumstumpf the way we do it is ensure that the sponge is wet but not dripping so the tip comes in to contact with a wet sponge but not water. A sponge soaked in water is different to a soaking wet sponge.
@@ianmontgomery7534 "A sponge soaked in water is different to a soaking wet sponge."
Yes - and what is shown in the video is the later.
There are many things to learn.
Thank you very much!
To be honest, I don't know all of it. And it really help me.
Neither did I, until now😎
Please note that some soldering iron bits are/ were made of copper which after a while became pitted due to the flux eating the bit, this pitting can be removed by light sanding on a abrasive material to create a flat surface. So if the bit is made of copper feel free to file it slightly.
My early tips were like this. Most tips I have used in the last decades are steel clad and pretinned. When retinning it usually works best when the iron is not to full heat. This is before new oxidation occurs and the solder will tend to stick and not just roll off as it does on a very hot iron.
From the title I supposed this was about stupid things electronic specialists used to do but the fact is that this is actually a fine tutorial on welding that really explains almost all that a welder needs to do. Fine work here!
Never will understand why people think that playing loud music contributes to the video. It has the opposite effect.
OMG I know right I hate that shit.
@@killaz123456789100 Everybody who liked your comment was not paying attention and made all 10 mistakes!
Then turn down the volume.
@@daimyo2k Good idea, then the narration would be silenced too!😊
Well, theres a volume mute button in your computer thats very effective in these cases you know?
I'm pleased to say I knew almost ALL of these tips ! Good work and nice soldering !
Frankly speaking these aren't tricks, but general rules of soldering. Well, except of "Fresh" solder, which is nonsense. There is no such thing as fresh or old solder, but there is flux which you should always use, doesn't matter if it comes inside the solder wire or no
THANK YOU! I did my first soldering project a couple months ago, creating a customer strip of LED lighting for a bookshelf, and I found it very difficult. From your video, I can see the two issues I was fighting with. 1. the LED strips were either oxidized or had a clear coat on them (I think I kinda figured this out on my own because I ended up lightly scraping the contacts with a razer to get them to solder to adhere, but I thought I was creating a texture for the solder to grab on to) 2. I didn't pre-tin the wires. Now I am excited to start another project!
🟦 Another tip would be to get a tin of flux and keep a toothpick in it to apply it when you're soldering to reflux a joint instead of applying more solder when all you need is flux.
The best soldering tutorial on UA-cam so far, thx a lot
WOW! This is and has been the best as well as most logical lesson on soldering I’ve watched & learned from so far! Thank you!
Addition to #6: The rag used to help cool down the tip quicker absolutely MUST be made of a material that won't melt or burn when putting the iron on/into it, otherwise you'll ruin your tip with melted plastic all over it, which would be a mess and very difficult to clean up!
I never use a soaked sponge. It cools the tip strongly. In stead I soake it and then push all the water out so that it is very moist, but not soaked
This is actually the proper way to do it.
Sometimes you do need to crash the heat in the tip, usually with a "dumb iron" especially when moving between large and small components. That being said, you definitely dont want it sopping wet. If it spatters theres too much water.
This is certainly the most useful video that I watched today on soldering properly. Thank you.
When using a tip for the first time always apply solder to the tip as the tip heats up.
After soldering a joint, do not wipe the tip on the sponge before placing the iron back into the holder because the solder on the tip will prevent oxidisation of the tip.
when should you wipe it on the sponge then instead?
@@lucada32 When there is too much solder on the tip.
Sponge + Water = thermal shock, leads to create micro-cracks on your tips. It also makes your tip cool down too much, hardening flux residus on it that won't be cleaned up with the sponge. Last but not least regular tap water has many ionic impurities and minerals which will react with the soldering iron tips. Best advice is to clean it up with a metallic sponge like you said on the point just before, and never remove solder form the tip when you disconnect your soldering iron. This will help preserve it when the metal will have cooled down and hardened and protect the tip. Next time you use it, let it warm up and clean it before next use.
At my last employer, we left the irons on all day (off at night) and used sponges for tip cleaning, but our water is hard and they got stiff. A simple change to grocery story distilled water stopped that in its tracks.
Thank you! I graduated electronics engineering yet I only know how to solder by learning from my mistakes. This is very helpful for others who wants to learn how to do a clean soldering.
.,,,, ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ - 1--⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⚀ ⚀ ⚀ 🕜⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ 3 ⚂ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ & ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ 3 ⏰ 3 ⏰ ⏰ 6 ⚅ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰ ⏰
Great video, you nailed it. many years ago when i was a teenager, i did those mistakes. after while i learned how to solder. now i'm an engineer, i teach my students how to solder properly. i will show my student your video.
I still use an old Czech transformer soldering iron: D, but it was still useful for me. Keep it up.
I had never got used to this one. Well it has its advantages that I am aware of and I own one, but I always feel like a bull in china shop using it...
80W old czech transformer solderin iron (trafopajka) - still best for me when working out of workshop. And in the workshop, 30+ years old Tesla ERS 50 soldering station is my preferable way to go.
Zlaté české páječky s odporovým drátkem :D
Yes, my Czechoslovak transformer soldering iron TRP-1 from 1955 still does job really well, you can even do SMD with it, if you make your self good thin wire tip.
Also heating from 0-300C in 2 seconds isn't bad.
But for small things is best Tesla ESR 50 from 70-80.
Funny thing is, that these things will be on this world longer then us and still be working like new :D
👎😐
Another couple of tips:
1. get a decent soldering iron.
2. solder as shortly as possible. -> no baking.
As for your tip #10: indeed, right temperature and quick action will avoid damage. However, I think that that plug did not have a Teflon insulator. More likely Nylon or PVC or so.
The plug was likely PTFE (Teflon). He's happily cooking away at 400°C, and PTFE melts at 327°C - apparently.
Agreed on the no cooking. If you have a temperature controlled iron, setting the upper temperature means that is where it stops. So many people with the right equipment running 400-450°C, using only time as their protective measure; a 2 second linger can be disastrous. Worst case I've seen, is watching nearby point-to-point undoing itself from the excessive heat. Not me, I might add.
A common mistake on UA-cam is to take 16 minutes to explain what could be covered, comfortably, in 6.
Agreed. I watched two mistakes... The filming prowess is amazing... Astounding takes but... I don't care.
If your life depends on 10 minutes, then don't watch all. I mean seriously, 10 minutes is too much? You can watch stupid action movie with Schwarcenegger for hours, but not practical advices for 16 minutes?
It is so long, because he wanted all the ads
ikr these tips are good but why
1. Don't make that mistake
2. Don't make that mistake
3. Don't make that mistake
4. Don't make that mistake
5. Don't make that mistake
6. Don't make that mistake
.
.
weird format.
im agree this kind of video doesnt need to be long
Well, what else ya gonna do while waiting for your Hydroxychloriquine order to arrive?
Learned more in 16 minutes than the last 40 years. Great video!
Thank you, now I saw all my mistakes in soldering. Thanks for tips!
Brilliant video, I was an electronic engineer of many years until I retired and that was 100% brilliant advice. Just one small criticism..... At 14:27 you soldered a wire into an XT60 connector but broke your own rule 5 (at 5:18) - you didn't pre-tin the wire or connector terminal
That's not as much to be called criticism.
He made a small mistake, and you pointed it out.
A small thing. 🙂
I am not 'criticizing' you 😅
I totally agree with Don Judge. He did contradicted his own advice. He didn't put the tin to the tip first.
I used to make all these mistakes before. Now its so much clear. Thank you.
Very basic, but absolutely essential tips. Well done sir.
8:15 If you want to check the temperature of anything by touch - use the back of your fingers. If it's too hot you will only burn your knuckles, there are fewer neves in the back of your finger so it wont hurt so much, and you will still be able to use your fingers. If you burn the pads of your fingers it will hurt a lot more and you might not be able to work for days. But even better, be patient and let it cool down and don't burn anything.
Actually, 6:23, which I believe is being presented as a GOOD connector joint, is classic as an example of a BAD joint. It was soldered into the connector by heaping melted solder into the connector in the "paste" condition (insufficient heat and flow). You can in fact tell it is a bad joint because the solder is NOT shiny and has an oatmeal appearance. This joint needs to be given flux and reheated. When solder has not reached sufficient heat to leave its "plastic" state and enter a liquid state, it will have an uneven surface appearance and not reflect light well. Rule: if the joint is not shiny and it does not curve inwards (show wetting behavior as a liquid) it is NOT a good joint!
Also in 6:41 you say "the result will be bad if you don't use new tin" (referring to solder). NO NO NO. You are not adding "tin" (or solder) what you are doing is adding flux from the core of the solder. If you play with a joint to much, and the flux is evaporated, then you need to add flux to make the solder flow. Most techs get this wrong. If you think you are "adding fresh solder", you will just end up putting too much solder on the joint, then you need to clean it up to get a good joint (remove solder). Unfortunately, because flux is a part of the solder, most techs don't understand what flux is and how it works. If you add flux (and JUST flux) to a bad joint using a flux pen or liquid from a bottle with a brush, you will see the joint clean up and flow, leaving (again) and shiny surface. DON'T use paste flux if you can find liquid. Rework specialists (people who do repair on industrial PCBs) use liquid flux from a bottle, which is much easier to control and gives good results.
7:15 laying down a wire on the board only attached by solder is BAD practice and would be rejected in an industrial setting. The rule is: parts are joined mechanically FIRST then by solder SECOND (yes, I am aware SMDs break that rule). There was a hole in that board for a reason. The stripped wire should have been inserted in the hole first. Pedantic? Here is WHY: the amount of force it takes to RIP that solder pad off the PCB is far far (far) less than the force it would take to pull the wire out of the soldered pad. Its asking for failure later.
At 10:07 the video maker makes another mistake due to misunderstanding of the plastic vs. liquid state of solder. He is creating little hills of solder to cover the holes in the PCB. He appears to understand quite well what he is doing, because as soon as the solder melts, he piles it on and quickly moves to the next hole. The solder forming those mounds is in the plastic state! Otherwise it would wick and leave the hole open! The result is a joint that had to be reheated, and probably refluxed when it actually has to connect to something. Notice at 10:09 he actually got it to bridge two holes doing this!
At 11:55 he gives you a great example of how NOT to solder SMDs. He got a smaller iron, which is good, but the solder was simply heaped on the part in its plastic phase. Look at the joint on C44 vs C43! C43, the manufactured SMD joint, is wetted and shows a nice curve from the part to the PCB. C44, the one the video maker reworked, is a big ball of solder with no wetting to speak of. A ball of solder could also indicate too much solder, but in this case it is both: too much solder and the person doing it moved on too rapidly and didn't let the solder get to the liquid state. Replay this scene a couple of times. Notice how you see the solder actually FLASH from shiny to dull when it cools. this is the solder crystallizing, and is a classic sign of a bad (what we call a "cold solder joint"). The metal is TALKING to you. You need to listen.
I haven't exp enough. What is the deal with the melting insulation? We don't see him clip off his wire but it seems to suggest overheating?
Scott, you critic of the video is perfect.
The video itself is not so bad, but a bit overdone, event for non professionals, but hat off for making the video in the first place.
Regarding SMD soldering: Personally I prefer solder paste, which you put on from an injection thingy and then heat with an airflow solder iron.
Hello Scott, you do understand soldering, and explain it well. I'm mostly a welder, there are many things that cross over. In welding, it is obvious that oxides can't be part of the equation. Mig is more forgiving, if one is good, there is quite a bit of manipulation that can be done when things have to happen and the right components aren't available, but one doesn't bring a 1/4" rod to weld 16 gauge material, when stick welding or use 0.025 wire to weld 1" plate. This is just common sense. I was somewhat surprised that no flux by itself was ever mentioned. Again parallel with welding, "flux" has to be there, whether in the form of shielding gas, powdered, or inside of the electrode. I would like to ask for your opinion on my approach, I clean the parts, use a tinning flux, sometimes add bit of solder, but when the parts are put together and I press with the hot iron is almost instantly that the pieces " flow" together. In welding quite a bit can be told by observing the bead profile. Humpy edges are a sign of cold welding or unless there is way too much material that is being deposited but moving the bead along will be problematic. The same humps that you pointed out. As far as not using sandpaper on the tip I will have to disagree, some of the tips that I have has craters on it and sometimes I begin with a file then all the way down to some 400 grit paper and the tip will look like a mirror when that solder " grabs on". Thanks for the rational approach and pointing out the parts that may be improved.
@@dveloso150 There's a lot to talk about here. First, you are so correct that flux separate from solder is the best way to work. Other uses, like plumbing, use lots of flux, usually in paste form, and it is common to use solder without cores (no flux inside). In electronics, techs have been sold on the idea that the flux core solders are all you need, and if a joint does not flow, hit it with more solder. This just creates mounds of solder, and usually pulling out the cooper wick to get rid of it, usually causing more damage. For contrast, professional rework techs at large manufacturing concerns have bottles of liquid flux.
For the idea of apply flux then heat, yes, I do that do to joints to reflow. Heating a joint first, with a little bit of solder to effect heat transfer, then applying solder, is using the idea that the joint must reach the melting temperature of solder before the joint is completed, and I teach that method as well. Its more psychology than physics, since you are teaching techs that joints are not proper unless the solder melts at the liquid phase. It also teaches you a lot about the plastic phase of solder, since you know very well when you are just pasting solder onto a joint instead of having it flow.
Finally, I, as well, used to "file down" my iron. But I noticed that with modern temperature controlled irons, this does not happen. I have a suspicion that the flux on the iron, combined with the fact that it overheats dramatically when sitting between joints, was what caused the corrosion.
One last PS. I have mixed feelings about people who do soldering/brazing of large parts vs. electronics. Soldering large objects teaches you a lot about things like flux and proper heat that you don't get from tiny electronic joints. If you solder (for example) copper pipe, you UNDERSTAND soldering. Watching a copper fitting suck up solder is really a wonder. At the same time, electronic and large copper soldering are two very different things, and unfortunately, many large copper soldering vets keep that idea that soldering is like making a sandwich, ie., stick all the materials together and heat.
Regards, Scott Franco
@@scottfranco1962 thanks for your comment. I'm here after watching the Pace basic soldering videos from the '70s - '80s and sometimes it's not clear to a beginner who's really doing it right. Comments like yours can help others navigate the sea of information at our fingertips these days.
I have been solder certified for over 20 years and I found the hardest part of solder is rework on ICS and other multi legged components that are coated with protective coating.
Despite some negative comments about emojis etc... That was an informative video. I love soldering... Every job, different challenge. thank you
Thanks for putting me straight on the way to soldering the right way.
ua-cam.com/video/RzQ7rjBz2Yc/v-deo.html
heat bridge tinning was my "ah ha" moment thank you sir!
If possible, I usually try to pre-tin both surfaces before I join them; the solder joint will flow in a lot easier, especially for "problem" joints or ones with large heat-dissipative conductors.
This video will still be relevant in 50 years to come
Answered many of my questions on soldering
Awesome content Danny
👍👍👍 Grazie a te riesco a evidenziare errori che commetto! Grande Daniele
14:25 I think you might have missed tip #5 here, hehe
Great video!! It'll certainly help me
Thanks a lot for this informative video, i learnt a lot, thanks for rectify our mistakes. Like done.
Love from Bharat (India)
Hey.. Buddy.. Some of the tips which you have have shown can distroy the IRON'S BIT.
One of them is the wet sponge method which you have shown...
It give instant cold sock to the soldering iron beat which can lead the bit toward damage soon.
Nice practice anyway.
What you call “abrasive sponges” are made of brass. Brass is an alloy whose hardness is lower than what the soldering iron's tip is made of (most often copper plated with iron and nickel), therefore a brass sponge cannot damage the soldering iron's tip and is the top choice for cleaning the iron's tip because damp sponges, while valid, take a lot more heat away from the iron's tip.
I use those at work, they do a great job 😊
is that like the stuff you use to wash egg frying pans, like steel wool
@@laceymeyers2273 Sort of. Search for “brass sponge” in G00gl€ and you will have a clear picture of them.
I second that, since i knew about those brass sponges, never went back to using a wet sponge, for some $3 those:
-Have the pieces of tin and debris fall to the bottom of the support, instead of staying on the surface of the sponge to be pick-up again at a next pass.
-Are more practical: doesn't need cleaning, and obviously no water.
-Doens't cold the tip
-About wear, as they're of lower hardness than the tip as you pointed out, i'd think they actually induce less wear on the iron tip, than the thermal shock+maybe slight oxidation from contact with water from the sponge.
Maybe there are (soldering some exotics alloys that wouldn't like brass?), but I can't really see any use case where a wet sponge would be better than a brass sponge.
@@laceymeyers2273 The video author says you can use steel wool *very gently*, but i'd advice against, as they might be too hard and still potentially scratch, and also much more dense so the debris won't fall off at the bottom as nicely as with a brass sponge designed for the purpose.
This is the definition of a meeting that could have been an email
was thinking the same
Elaborate
Worl health nrws Italian ministryWHO news
i use the wifes iron plays hell when she trys to iron her shirts
ChadRilla23 he’s saying this could’ve been a list instead of a video, Well that’s my take on it.
Wow, I have been making many mistakes over the last 50 years. Thanks for the info!
Yea, I even sandpapered my tips when oxidised unusable, I just should have thrown them away !
@@erikdenhouter no ,if its oxidated you can try to restore . the video means to not clean the solder on the tip like that .
Try cleaning a circuit board in-situ with wire-wool and see how many short-circuits you can leave behind thanks to the detritus from the wire-wool!
Instead, try using the "Ink" end of a "pencil/Ink" eraser - any fragments of the eraser left behind won't be conductive.
Wow! That´s a nice trick! Thanks!
Regards from Argentina
I knew all of these but still watched anyway!
I was making all those mistakes!
Now I will try it the right way now.
Thanks for your help, I really needed it.
Great! This needs to be taught at school
Should be, for sure. Get these life skills passed down to the next generation.
I'm obviously being annoying, but you just learned this in 16 minutes full of ads. There's no need.