I already did that successfully but chose my parts myself. What I would like to add in this setup is a 2s bms that protects and balances the cells or the cells themselves should be of the protected kind. It costs only about a dollar and will help the lifespan of the cells. I am fortunate to be able to spotweld though.
Once you own a certain device and it can be modded, you mod... I replaced my front cover for one with a carbon-ish look. Hell of a job, but well worth the effort. It looks so much better and easier to recognize as everyone seems to have a T16 these days. Next step will be to 3D print a wallmount dockingstation. At the bottom left-side there's plenty of room to fit some slide-into connector.
I’m running my X9D off 2S 18650. I got tired of pulling them out as well. I bought one of those cheap 2S chargers and wired it up to the internal 2S balance port and used the existing DC barrel jack. I VHB’d the little charge board to the backside of the battery bay (internally). That was the best $8 I’ve spent in a long time.
Try getting the huge capacity ones, I'm a huge fan of Panasonic NCR18650B, 3,400 mAh...I've got 3 of them internal in my transmitter, get about 2 weeks of flying every day, with Crossfire on 500mw dynamic
I've hesitated on buying a kit like this because I like being able to just swap batteries more than I'd like to not need to take them out at all (especially for something like a weekend trip). I do like the switch to a pack though, and it'd be easy enough to put one together that can be charged just like my flight packs. The included holder is kind of a pain and it would eliminate the need for a second charger just for the 18650s. I'm definitely going to be giving that a try.
I've wanted a Jumper T16 for a while now but I just bought a used QX7 so I told myself I was ok for a few years. Now with the knowledge of the TX16s I just might sell my QX7 and get one. What a pain 😫
I find a stepped drill bit helpful when drilling holes like that. They can be found at Harbor Freight pretty cheap. It also has the advantage that it sort of de-burrs the hole as you go, if you drill carefully.
I was hoping for this vid and really wantedit to be a $10 upgrade. Though I like the quality I decided to cut/dremel the sides of the battery tray to make battery removal easier. Now I just open the cover, stand the radio upright and lower the tray to remove the batteries - not need to unplug.
I soldered to the battery leads a Fly RC 2S 7.4V LiPo Battery Balance Charger Cable Lead Wire Connector from amazon (10 for $5.99). I have to open case and charge each cell individually though. This does keep the cells balanced.
Yep that's what I did I got. 2s USB charger from Amazon and now.my Jumper charges from the top USB port. Over night as it pulls only 1amp. I also converted the micro SD to be a NAS so I can upload files to it. Toshiba FlashAir is the device and I will post the custom code you need tomorrow. I can upload new files from my phone now pretty nice.
Good tip, I bought an edge reamer tool to make holes in plastic. Great for this sort of thing. banggood.com/Raitool-DT01-Edge-Reamer-Professional-Reaming-Universal-Hole-Drill-Tool-0-14mm-Opener-Reamer-p-922461.html?p=UG06171211488201502B (link with Joshua's affiliate code)
@Žan Pekošak It's very sharp, did try it on a bit of circuitboard to make some mounting holes which worked ok but could see the cutting edge now looks a little dulled, but on plastic it's superb so I only use it on that now.
Gday JB, great review as always I'm not sure if I'm going to drill my brand new transmitter right now but ill probably do it later, you do know that Jumper will bring something out soon because of your video for internal charging, bugger!!! great work mate.👍🛸
Love the work you do Joshua! I did an internal pack in my X9d, 3S 3,400mAh...pack has a fake 2S lead for the transmitter, a real 3S balance lead for balance charging, and a real XT30 for crossfire and charging. Got no need for another wall wort that only powers one thing...especially since i go weeks without charging...doesnt your smart charger do a better job? 21700 5,000mAh is pretty easy to do internally also!
I've been thinking about adding a balance charge socket to my T16 so I can charge it with my iSDT Q6 charger, but without modifying the shell in any way, instead I'd copy, redesign & print a new battery cover with a balance socket in.
@David Shaddix What's the connector/wiring setup of yours? Mine is the standard 2S balance socket in the T16 battery bay, with a 2x 18650 holder that has a single balance plug attached. I have to unplug it to connect to my iSDT Q6 charger, using a cable I made with an XT60 & 2S balance plug+socket. I'm thinking about creating a short 2S splitter cable to go with the new 3D printed battery cover to maintain the 'not permanently modded' situation.
You really are an influencer, JB... ;). I had been waiting on pulling the trigger on the T16. I may just pull the trigger on the TX16S now... ;). Sounds like it addresses all the minor complaints about the T16
is there any risk adding your own balance port parallel to the current balance port along with a charge port? is there a need to add a disconnect switch before charging li-ion batteries?
Good video JB, pretty easy mod for anyone. as for 50$, a little pricey, but not totally unreasonable. Look at the parts list to put this together, then someone had to order the parts, assemble them, and package and ship anda anda anda panda. Unless someone else does it, with the same quality , but cheaper, this looks like a good option.
BTW, that USB 2S balance charger you glanced at on last night's livestream at the 56:47 mark, it might not output 2S voltage... I have a USB 2S balance charger that came with a cheap RC car from Banggood to charge the 18650 2S pack which only has a balance plug. Internally the USB device is actually a 1S charger and every 2 seconds it alternates which cell it charges. It has an individual cell charging rate of about 480mA, so an empty 2000mAh 2S pack would take over 8 hours (2000*2/480).
Technically mine does charge a 2S pack, but you'd have to put it on charge overnight for it to be of any use. The one you linked to says it has a charge rate of 800mAh, if that's 2S @ 800mAh it's still 2.5 hours for a 2000mAh and over 4 hours for the 3350mAh cells I use.
I'll keep this in mind, thanks Josh! FWIW - when I ordered mine from @graysonhobby I also ordered the 18650 batteries they offered during checkout for $9.99 thinking that was a good deal. I SUGGEST NOT DOING THIS. After researching the "6000 mAh" batteries I quickly figured out they are cheap China knockoffs and ARE NOT 6000 mAh. They would go dead in only a few hours. I ordered a pair of 3500mAh ORB3500P. BIG difference in staying power. The 3500 also weighed 10 grams more. They are 4x as $$ but are lasting days of heavy use!
Yes, I did measure the Grayson Hobby yellow “6000” mAh batteries and they are only 1000mAh, and do drain very quickly. You get what you pay for. Also worth noting, the battery case will not hold protected 18650 cells, they are too long.
If you add up the cost of the parts, they easily come to $35 or $40. Honestly, the price is pretty reasonable. But if you think you can do it cheaper, more power to you.
@@JoshuaBardwell I want it powered by the existing USB plug, should be possible to just cut into it? I can only find one 5V USB -> 2S charger and it's $12-13 from Emax. Could it also be an option to just use a 5V->9V DC boost converter and connect it to a 2S BMS to stop charging at 4.3v? That'd cost under $10.
I did the x9d mod on my T12 and it works well It charges when using the radio on the flight sim. " why do I use a T12 its small and desecrate and as legislation starts to bite I think RC will need to go stealthy
I added a 2s charger to my USB port on the top no drilling the case just solder the +5 and negative I also made the micro SD wireless so I can upload the firmware and sound files with out connecting the USB so I can test my files and scripts with out unplugging the radio.
Just wait until after Chinese New Years. Jumper will release an updated T16 with USB charging, plus Radiomaster will also release their radio, which is very similar to the T16 with more improvements and a cheaper price.
I wonder if that pack will fit the T8SG. They seem the same in that area. 21700's I never knew about. I can't pay 50$ but I can build it myself. I'd want USB anyway. Don't want some other random non universal charger I have to remember. The only part I wonder about is: I have a good charger for my 18650's and DON'T charge things like my 18650 headlamp through the on board chargers because those chargers they say are bad for the batteries. I don't recall why precisely... heck I could pull apart an older headlamp I don't use the charge feature on, and be good to go if this is OK on the batteries. Just have to find some good 21700's with a protection board I reckon. I'm fine with really tearing stuff up (I rarely don't actually).. maybe I could build a 4 pack that I can cut and hack into there. The weight might feel nice too.. hmmm. Well thanks for the ideas JB. I can't believe how much stuff I have found to mod on this thing lol.
Corded drills never need to be charged and don't 'go bad' if you leave them sitting for a year between uses like rechargeable drills, with their $120 battery packs, tend to do. Corded drills just work, always, with the full amount of power, period.
The battery doesn’t rattle around inside my jumper t16, but then mine came with that piece of rubbery foam that glues to the inside of the battery compartment lid.
Standard connector with balance charging if desired. I pull power directly from the terminals so in the event of a low battery the balance board won't shut you down and possibly lose a model.
Hey Joshua I do have a question and one that I cannot find a video on, you have touched on it, that is proshot1000, you have done many videos on motor protocols, but since dshot1200 is gone, I was wondering if proshot1000 would be a good choice, lots of guys are dropping to dshot600, but to me dshot600 feels bad, not sure if it is just in my head or really there is merit to my feeling, but dshot600 does not feel as stable as dshot1200, not to be fair I am using dshot1200 in a betafpv 85x with a 4s battery, and comparing it to my GepRC cinepro 4k, on 4s, and the cinepro is on the dshot600 cause they took away the dshot1200, and the drone feels sluggish, now perhaps it is because it is bigger and heavier and that maybe in my head, dshot600 is still working, can you please address this, and maybe make a good video on proshot? Please and thankyou.
If you bought everything from Amazon, it would be about $35-40 (2-batteries, DC plugs, charger, and charging circuit). So, the link to buy everything that is ready to install for $50 is a bargain.
True and it take me around 45 minutes to build a kit and first class USPS is included, usually 2-3 days with tracking. I am able to make a few $$ with economy of scale by buying hundreds of components at a time.
With the t16 internals being so modular with the boards and the tx16s being almost the same radio, what do you think the chances are of being able to transplant the usb c board and charging circuit directly into the t16? Will be interesting to see the internals of the tx16s when it comes out.
If you had started with "this is a 50$ convenience mod, I'd stopped or skipped. 50$ for the EU battery compared to 160$ for t16 pro radio incl. battery is a no go or beyond making sense especially with a TX16s incl. a lot of my wishes for 130$. Nice mod, but if I'd mod any6hing I d sell my brand new T16 Pro and get more than I paid to simply buy the tx16s But at least I learned to wait the availability if TX16S.
I contacted Bob. He's a legend. Josh I need your help please. I have the jumper t16 pro and I am trying to bind a flysky fs-a8s receiver found in the eachine wizard x220s. I've been trying for hours and it just doesn't work?
I completed this mod and like the way it turned out. I don't mind rewarding the gentleman for his ingenuity. @joshua bardwell what would be the optimum Battery Meter Range setting in the T16? Default setting is 6.0-8.4V.
Joshua. I can see why you are venturing down the T16 road, makes for great videos. A friend has just purchased the T16 Pro in our club. Here are my observations. The T16 has cheap plastic sticks, No Bluetooth and no APP so you can program your radio etc and view telemetry sensors on your smart phone. As you explained in this video the T16 has no charger, so you need to spend US$65 to get one. The T16 button labels are almost invisible to read. The roller feels terrible and cheap. The internal and external modules have mainly older protocol selections in its menu, so another upgrade coming soon? The main ARM CPU does not have the encryption capability to run the newer protocols so I can see the next revision of T16 super Pro in the next 6 months. After all of that you could have purchased a FRsky X10 or better still the X10S. The T16 is cheap, it feels cheap and I predict will have a short life span. Lets see I maybe wrong.
A quick google search reveals it is possible, I saw a video where someone powered their FS-i6X using a lipo & USB boost board to put 5V into the radio - but as the 5V boost board doesn't monitor its input voltage properly it could completely drain the lipo and ruin it. My suggestion would be to use the voltage boost board from a cheap 18650 USB power bank, and use the 18650 or a 1S lipo that fits in the transmitter, because it has two distinct advantages - you can charge the lipo by USB, and it won't kill the lipo by draining it too much. However you won't get a warning when the radio will switch off because the lipo is empty, so I would add a small LED voltage display and a microswitch, then you can simply press the button to see the lipo voltage to make sure it's got enough juice before flying.
Thanks sir but I am watching December 2022 this vidoe is 2 year I go and you talking about my proplem I'm planing to buy jumper now is 184 while tx16s is now 249 any help
hello how can I have a link to buy the material for the jumper t16 pro hall for changing batteries ?? or pire can you dare me the indications for where to buy it? I am Italian
I installed the set 21700 but I have a question about charging I have the wire with the xt30 connector. Can I charge them with my lipo charger with the settings on Lipo - 2s - 2A ?
Hmmm. Neat but I’m not sure it’s worth 50 bucks. I power my crossfire with an external 2s LiPo that I Velcro to the battery cover. I fly atleast five packs every day and usually don’t have to swap 18650s or recharge my crossfire battery for atleast three days. It’s also 20 degrees here.
I am pretty sure the Crossfire requires power from the external plug in order to go to 2W. With this mod, the charging plug has 2S voltage on it and you could use that as an aux power for the Crossfire with a barrel-to-xt30 adapter.
@@JoshuaBardwell With the mod i have done to my radio at the moment i can run 2W through the normal module bay input. Do you think the module bay of the t16 could support that load
1:14 shame on you Josh "Come back in the morning ? ! " "I'm Joshua Bardwell and I'm going to burn my house down today" But in all seriousness, I'm sure you did not mean that literally. Z
Charging this type of LiIo cell at a very slow rate is different than charging a LiPo that has been bashed around and may be damaged. You leave your cell phone charging overnight right? It's not any different in my opinion.
Yeah I've been charging my ebike battery overnight for over a decade now without worry. I've twice replaced the cells in the packs I have, because it was 1/3 the price of a new pack. First time I swapped out the 28x 18650's for new ones, 2nd time I figured out I could put 14x 5000mAh lipo cells in - they were both tricky soldering jobs, had to make sure to not short circuit *anything* to avoid bad things happening.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I 100%agree with you I shouldve been more specific i use an old bit and its a large one I never ever use i agree I wouldn't use a bit that is still serviceable
Nice option but $50 to charge a radio I payed $150 for is too steep for my blood. I'd just put an RDQ Series 7.4V 2S 3000mAh FPV Goggle LiPo Battery w/ Charge Indicator.
TRexHeliPilot remember that you are getting two high capacity LiIon cells. And those don’t come with the radio that is already cheap for what it offers.
I was not aware that Joshua had done the review and I took more orders in the first 12 hours than in a typical month! Busy is an understatement, starting to feel like a Chinese piece worker but I really appreciate the review!!
I can confirm. My x9d got tons and tons of flights out of the stock 2000mah nicad. 10 packs back to back and the battery wouldn't even blink. The jumper T16 is maybe getting 20 tiny whoop flights out of a pair of VCT5s (2600mah) before it needs a recharge. I suspect the T16 is just power hungry as hell. I'll have to check the current draw between the 2.
I recently did a power test of my T16 with Crossfire, it draws 400mA from the cells when the backlight of the screen is at full, and 350mA when dimmed.
cordless drill battery packs are too expensive and too quick to fail. unless you use a drill at your job and charge it every single day the packs will eventually go bad. for most people a corded drill makes more sense. full power, every single time, no $120 battery packs to worry about babysitting.
"If you know a bit about electronics, you probably know you can build this for less than $50, but you didn't, did you? He did." Just because he's done it doesn't mean I can't just go and still make my own. I've looked up the parts, and it'll be a *lot* less than $50. More like $20. This thing is a rip-off. And needing its own special charger? Absolutely not acceptable. Much easier to charge from usb - you can even charge at 2A. And if you're making it yourself, you can design it to either not require any holes (and you charge by just taking off the battery door) or only holes in the (replaceable) battery door, thus not voiding your warranty.
@@zeusofcrete9927 I started by putting a how to on the web and then folks started asking if I could build them for sale. So first you need to start with a really good quality spot welder so you don't fry your batteries with a soldering iron, then you need to order batteries that are both certified and in volumes of hundreds to get a reasonable price. Don't forget the other components, connectors, packaging, postage, and then your time. Since you seem to be prepared to work for free, I'll "hire" you to put kits together. Takes about an hour or so, then there's the 1/2 run to the post office and back. Total rip off!
No Thanks, Too expensive, too tight in compartment. How hard to take "normal" pack out to charge? Rather use the "expensive" lipo/lion /lifi charger already have
Got mine today! He ships fast! No the upgrade.... Should be easy peasy!!!!
the battery never used to rattle around if you used the little foam disc that came with the jumper.
great mod..i will be doing this for sure
I told him about the little foam disc Azza, he didn't want to listen.... lol
I lost the foam disc what do you want....
@@JoshuaBardwell did it roll away on you...lol
@@JoshuaBardwell LOL
@@Bitathisandthat Too funny Azza !
My QX7S can charge from an adaptor straight out of the box but I have been looking at the T16 for a while, I think I might wait for that T16S 👍🏼👍🏼
I already did that successfully but chose my parts myself. What I would like to add in this setup is a 2s bms that protects and balances the cells or the cells themselves should be of the protected kind. It costs only about a dollar and will help the lifespan of the cells. I am fortunate to be able to spotweld though.
Well worth the money to help out a fellow member of the FPV community. This mod looks and works great. Nice work JB 👍
Once you own a certain device and it can be modded, you mod... I replaced my front cover for one with a carbon-ish look. Hell of a job, but well worth the effort. It looks so much better and easier to recognize as everyone seems to have a T16 these days.
Next step will be to 3D print a wallmount dockingstation. At the bottom left-side there's plenty of room to fit some slide-into connector.
I’m running my X9D off 2S 18650. I got tired of pulling them out as well.
I bought one of those cheap 2S chargers and wired it up to the internal 2S balance port and used the existing DC barrel jack. I VHB’d the little charge board to the backside of the battery bay (internally).
That was the best $8 I’ve spent in a long time.
Thanks Mr. Bardwell for your videos. We order using your links when we can. Keep up what you do and the community is thankful for your help!
Im impressed how clean this mod is
Can't wait to give this a shot! It seems like my 18650s are always draining so quickly.
Try getting the huge capacity ones, I'm a huge fan of Panasonic NCR18650B, 3,400 mAh...I've got 3 of them internal in my transmitter, get about 2 weeks of flying every day, with Crossfire on 500mw dynamic
@@davidshaddix4284 will do thanks for the advice!
I've hesitated on buying a kit like this because I like being able to just swap batteries more than I'd like to not need to take them out at all (especially for something like a weekend trip). I do like the switch to a pack though, and it'd be easy enough to put one together that can be charged just like my flight packs. The included holder is kind of a pain and it would eliminate the need for a second charger just for the 18650s. I'm definitely going to be giving that a try.
I've wanted a Jumper T16 for a while now but I just bought a used QX7 so I told myself I was ok for a few years. Now with the knowledge of the TX16s I just might sell my QX7 and get one. What a pain 😫
I find a stepped drill bit helpful when drilling holes like that. They can be found at Harbor Freight pretty cheap. It also has the advantage that it sort of de-burrs the hole as you go, if you drill carefully.
I was hoping for this vid and really wantedit to be a $10 upgrade. Though I like the quality I decided to cut/dremel the sides of the battery tray to make battery removal easier. Now I just open the cover, stand the radio upright and lower the tray to remove the batteries - not need to unplug.
Thank god, i watch your video josh. I decided to wait T16s 👍
I look forward to modding my T16 with the Radiomaster back-case and charge board :)
Awesome mod! Just purchased one for myself. Can’t wait to get it installed. Thanks for the review!
I soldered to the battery leads a Fly RC 2S 7.4V LiPo Battery Balance Charger Cable Lead Wire Connector from amazon (10 for $5.99). I have to open case and charge each cell individually though. This does keep the cells balanced.
If you can find a 2S balancer charger circuit that works off 5volts then you can just hook it up to USB internally. That would be the best.
Yep that's what I did I got. 2s USB charger from Amazon and now.my Jumper charges from the top USB port. Over night as it pulls only 1amp. I also converted the micro SD to be a NAS so I can upload files to it. Toshiba FlashAir is the device and I will post the custom code you need tomorrow. I can upload new files from my phone now pretty nice.
@@mleitner0 do you have a name or link for the charger circuit. I haven't yet found a compact one.
When drill in plastic, ALWAYS reverse the drillbit it will avoid cracking. Because it will happen sooner or later...
Good tip, I bought an edge reamer tool to make holes in plastic. Great for this sort of thing.
banggood.com/Raitool-DT01-Edge-Reamer-Professional-Reaming-Universal-Hole-Drill-Tool-0-14mm-Opener-Reamer-p-922461.html?p=UG06171211488201502B (link with Joshua's affiliate code)
@@licensetodrive9930 How sharp is this thing? I was thinking about picking one up but I am a bit afraid of their build quality...
@Žan Pekošak It's very sharp, did try it on a bit of circuitboard to make some mounting holes which worked ok but could see the cutting edge now looks a little dulled, but on plastic it's superb so I only use it on that now.
Or use a Uni-Bit, then the hole is perfectly round and clean every time
Gday JB, great review as always I'm not sure if I'm going to drill my brand new transmitter right now but ill probably do it later, you do know that Jumper will bring something out soon because of your video for internal charging, bugger!!! great work mate.👍🛸
Love the work you do Joshua! I did an internal pack in my X9d, 3S 3,400mAh...pack has a fake 2S lead for the transmitter, a real 3S balance lead for balance charging, and a real XT30 for crossfire and charging. Got no need for another wall wort that only powers one thing...especially since i go weeks without charging...doesnt your smart charger do a better job? 21700 5,000mAh is pretty easy to do internally also!
I've been thinking about adding a balance charge socket to my T16 so I can charge it with my iSDT Q6 charger, but without modifying the shell in any way, instead I'd copy, redesign & print a new battery cover with a balance socket in.
I leave my balnce lead in the battery bay, just take the door off for charging!
@David Shaddix What's the connector/wiring setup of yours? Mine is the standard 2S balance socket in the T16 battery bay, with a 2x 18650 holder that has a single balance plug attached. I have to unplug it to connect to my iSDT Q6 charger, using a cable I made with an XT60 & 2S balance plug+socket.
I'm thinking about creating a short 2S splitter cable to go with the new 3D printed battery cover to maintain the 'not permanently modded' situation.
You really are an influencer, JB... ;). I had been waiting on pulling the trigger on the T16. I may just pull the trigger on the TX16S now... ;). Sounds like it addresses all the minor complaints about the T16
Great mod! Next is to create a new back cover with your 3d printer.
is there any risk adding your own balance port parallel to the current balance port along with a charge port? is there a need to add a disconnect switch before charging li-ion batteries?
Good video JB, pretty easy mod for anyone. as for 50$, a little pricey, but not totally unreasonable. Look at the parts list to put this together, then someone had to order the parts, assemble them, and package and ship anda anda anda panda. Unless someone else does it, with the same quality , but cheaper, this looks like a good option.
Don't forget to add the cost of a quality spot welder!
Nice hack... going to be using the idea in other places haha, really useful.
Awesome work, Joshua! Really nice mod! 😃
I totally agree, charging the batteries inside is much better!
BTW, that USB 2S balance charger you glanced at on last night's livestream at the 56:47 mark, it might not output 2S voltage...
I have a USB 2S balance charger that came with a cheap RC car from Banggood to charge the 18650 2S pack which only has a balance plug. Internally the USB device is actually a 1S charger and every 2 seconds it alternates which cell it charges.
It has an individual cell charging rate of about 480mA, so an empty 2000mAh 2S pack would take over 8 hours (2000*2/480).
I knew for that price it had to be a joke.
Technically mine does charge a 2S pack, but you'd have to put it on charge overnight for it to be of any use.
The one you linked to says it has a charge rate of 800mAh, if that's 2S @ 800mAh it's still 2.5 hours for a 2000mAh and over 4 hours for the 3350mAh cells I use.
I'll keep this in mind, thanks Josh! FWIW - when I ordered mine from @graysonhobby I also ordered the 18650 batteries they offered during checkout for $9.99 thinking that was a good deal. I SUGGEST NOT DOING THIS. After researching the "6000 mAh" batteries I quickly figured out they are cheap China knockoffs and ARE NOT 6000 mAh. They would go dead in only a few hours. I ordered a pair of 3500mAh ORB3500P. BIG difference in staying power. The 3500 also weighed 10 grams more. They are 4x as $$ but are lasting days of heavy use!
Kinda learned the same lesson. The same looking are not always the same working.
Yes, I did measure the Grayson Hobby yellow “6000” mAh batteries and they are only 1000mAh, and do drain very quickly. You get what you pay for. Also worth noting, the battery case will not hold protected 18650 cells, they are too long.
As always, Excellent video. Definitely surprised by the amount. Bob's doing it big.
If you add up the cost of the parts, they easily come to $35 or $40. Honestly, the price is pretty reasonable. But if you think you can do it cheaper, more power to you.
@@JoshuaBardwell If someone can do it cheaper then I'll hire him!
@@JoshuaBardwell I want it powered by the existing USB plug, should be possible to just cut into it? I can only find one 5V USB -> 2S charger and it's $12-13 from Emax. Could it also be an option to just use a 5V->9V DC boost converter and connect it to a 2S BMS to stop charging at 4.3v? That'd cost under $10.
There is a new V2 of the T16 Pro available at aliexpress.
It says it is USB C chargeable and it comes with a foldable handle.
Ordered mine yesterday.
Thanks for this Joshua, I have ordered one. What settings do you have your battery monitor voltage set to on the T16?
Did you have any issues?
Bardwell on the tools. Lol. You could start a home reno channel with those drilling skills. ;)
I did the x9d mod on my T12 and it works well It charges when using the radio on the flight sim. " why do I use a T12 its small and desecrate and as legislation starts to bite I think RC will need to go stealthy
I would suggest a step drill over a standard one as they don't pull themselves in, in the same way.
That's a great idea but I don't own one.
Great video as always Joshua
i got a jumper for christmas!
Me too! Problem is, it's made of wool, so the range is limited.
I added a 2s charger to my USB port on the top no drilling the case just solder the +5 and negative I also made the micro SD wireless so I can upload the firmware and sound files with out connecting the USB so I can test my files and scripts with out unplugging the radio.
Michael Leitner could you share how you did that? Sounds great!
Domagoj Malovic sure I will upload my photos to google tomorrow.
@@mleitner0 awesome. I would like to do this as well :)
Just wait until after Chinese New Years. Jumper will release an updated T16 with USB charging, plus Radiomaster will also release their radio, which is very similar to the T16 with more improvements and a cheaper price.
I wonder if that pack will fit the T8SG. They seem the same in that area. 21700's I never knew about. I can't pay 50$ but I can build it myself. I'd want USB anyway. Don't want some other random non universal charger I have to remember. The only part I wonder about is: I have a good charger for my 18650's and DON'T charge things like my 18650 headlamp through the on board chargers because those chargers they say are bad for the batteries. I don't recall why precisely... heck I could pull apart an older headlamp I don't use the charge feature on, and be good to go if this is OK on the batteries. Just have to find some good 21700's with a protection board I reckon. I'm fine with really tearing stuff up (I rarely don't actually).. maybe I could build a 4 pack that I can cut and hack into there. The weight might feel nice too.. hmmm. Well thanks for the ideas JB. I can't believe how much stuff I have found to mod on this thing lol.
They have these things now called cordless drills. 😂
can power them with 18650's too!
@@davidshaddix4284 Lmao ! Priceless !
Deush
Corded drills never need to be charged and don't 'go bad' if you leave them sitting for a year between uses like rechargeable drills, with their $120 battery packs, tend to do. Corded drills just work, always, with the full amount of power, period.
The battery doesn’t rattle around inside my jumper t16, but then mine came with that piece of rubbery foam that glues to the inside of the battery compartment lid.
Great tutorial. What about the balance battery connector ?
Standard connector with balance charging if desired. I pull power directly from the terminals so in the event of a low battery the balance board won't shut you down and possibly lose a model.
That's a great idea and I want to do it too. Thank u. Really nice wao I want that lipo charger yes really cool Joshua.
Great mod but i find it is a little bit expensive for 2 batteries, a BEC and a plug. I will try to make it DIY.
I added a micro USB to mine, charge with a power bank if needed even while in use
Ok, I'm gonna need some details please
Exactly. This mod/kit not charging from USB is an absolutely stupid idea.
Hey Joshua I do have a question and one that I cannot find a video on, you have touched on it, that is proshot1000, you have done many videos on motor protocols, but since dshot1200 is gone, I was wondering if proshot1000 would be a good choice, lots of guys are dropping to dshot600, but to me dshot600 feels bad, not sure if it is just in my head or really there is merit to my feeling, but dshot600 does not feel as stable as dshot1200, not to be fair I am using dshot1200 in a betafpv 85x with a 4s battery, and comparing it to my GepRC cinepro 4k, on 4s, and the cinepro is on the dshot600 cause they took away the dshot1200, and the drone feels sluggish, now perhaps it is because it is bigger and heavier and that maybe in my head, dshot600 is still working, can you please address this, and maybe make a good video on proshot? Please and thankyou.
If you bought everything from Amazon, it would be about $35-40 (2-batteries, DC plugs, charger, and charging circuit). So, the link to buy everything that is ready to install for $50 is a bargain.
True and it take me around 45 minutes to build a kit and first class USPS is included, usually 2-3 days with tracking. I am able to make a few $$ with economy of scale by buying hundreds of components at a time.
With the t16 internals being so modular with the boards and the tx16s being almost the same radio, what do you think the chances are of being able to transplant the usb c board and charging circuit directly into the t16? Will be interesting to see the internals of the tx16s when it comes out.
If you had started with "this is a 50$ convenience mod, I'd stopped or skipped.
50$ for the EU battery compared to 160$ for t16 pro radio incl. battery is a no go or beyond making sense especially with a TX16s incl. a lot of my wishes for 130$.
Nice mod, but if I'd mod any6hing I d sell my brand new T16 Pro and get more than I paid to simply buy the tx16s
But at least I learned to wait the availability if TX16S.
Josh, why not use your icharger or toolkit charger .
I contacted Bob. He's a legend.
Josh I need your help please. I have the jumper t16 pro and I am trying to bind a flysky fs-a8s receiver found in the eachine wizard x220s. I've been trying for hours and it just doesn't work?
Bind in adfhs 2a mode not Flysky. Flysky mode is an older protocol that isn't used any more.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you. All done.
Work smarter not harder
I completed this mod and like the way it turned out. I don't mind rewarding the gentleman for his ingenuity.
@joshua bardwell what would be the optimum Battery Meter Range setting in the T16? Default setting is 6.0-8.4V.
That's a fine range.
Joshua. I can see why you are venturing down the T16 road, makes for great videos. A friend has just purchased the T16 Pro in our club. Here are my observations. The T16 has cheap plastic sticks, No Bluetooth and no APP so you can program your radio etc and view telemetry sensors on your smart phone. As you explained in this video the T16 has no charger, so you need to spend US$65 to get one. The T16 button labels are almost invisible to read. The roller feels terrible and cheap. The internal and external modules have mainly older protocol selections in its menu, so another upgrade coming soon? The main ARM CPU does not have the encryption capability to run the newer protocols so I can see the next revision of T16 super Pro in the next 6 months. After all of that you could have purchased a FRsky X10 or better still the X10S. The T16 is cheap, it feels cheap and I predict will have a short life span. Lets see I maybe wrong.
So can I get one for my now old x10s? 😅
🍻cheers🥃
I just finished building my own with 20700 4200 15A cells. I wanted balance charging...so there I go.
What kind of run time are you seeing with your mod? and how long to recharge when it needs it?
Runtime is so long I haven't had to recharge it yet. It charges overnight.
will you get the Radiomaster T16 for review ?
I'm wondering I could run my fs i6x on 18650's? It takes 4 AA's.
A quick google search reveals it is possible, I saw a video where someone powered their FS-i6X using a lipo & USB boost board to put 5V into the radio - but as the 5V boost board doesn't monitor its input voltage properly it could completely drain the lipo and ruin it.
My suggestion would be to use the voltage boost board from a cheap 18650 USB power bank, and use the 18650 or a 1S lipo that fits in the transmitter, because it has two distinct advantages - you can charge the lipo by USB, and it won't kill the lipo by draining it too much. However you won't get a warning when the radio will switch off because the lipo is empty, so I would add a small LED voltage display and a microswitch, then you can simply press the button to see the lipo voltage to make sure it's got enough juice before flying.
Im waiting for the the USB charging mod.
Thanks sir but I am watching December 2022 this vidoe is 2 year I go and you talking about my proplem I'm planing to buy jumper now is 184 while tx16s is now 249 any help
Finally...
i just got a lipo battery 3000 mah. RDQ 2s lipo
battery
Using a full sized metal drill bit is way Overkill for making a hole in plastic. Lol
Next time use a hatchet!
Hi Joshua, do you know if the v2 will take li-fe 6.6v batteries? ive got a turnigy pack that i had for my futaba 14sg ? cheers
You can adjust the battery scale to take Nickel or Lithium. I'm sure you can make it right for LiFe if that's what you have.
Josh. Does this fit the pro?
But they will not get balance charged this way?
The V2 jumper t16 has a USB C built in now. I should have waited a month.
hello how can I have a link to buy the material for the jumper t16 pro hall for changing batteries ?? or pire can you dare me the indications for where to buy it? I am Italian
to upgrade battery pack use 2 x lg inr21700-m50t
interesting.. us spektrum users have been charging like this for years.. plug battery in to controller and then plug power cable in to controller...
I am wondering if the x9 lite internal charging circuit would work here
I installed the set 21700 but I have a question about charging I have the wire with the xt30 connector.
Can I charge them with my lipo charger with the settings on Lipo - 2s - 2A ?
You should ask the manufacturer that question.
Hmmm. Neat but I’m not sure it’s worth 50 bucks. I power my crossfire with an external 2s LiPo that I Velcro to the battery cover. I fly atleast five packs every day and usually don’t have to swap 18650s or recharge my crossfire battery for atleast three days. It’s also 20 degrees here.
I like the mod but dig the race day T heaps more dude shwag for days
3:47 Nowadays people used to that face about the things going around the modern technology 😝
Can I mod the T16 so I get battery power to the Jr Bay to use the full-size crossfire on 2W
I am pretty sure the Crossfire requires power from the external plug in order to go to 2W. With this mod, the charging plug has 2S voltage on it and you could use that as an aux power for the Crossfire with a barrel-to-xt30 adapter.
@@JoshuaBardwell With the mod i have done to my radio at the moment i can run 2W through the normal module bay input. Do you think the module bay of the t16 could support that load
@@JoshuaBardwell I have a number of kits running Crossfires. The board and batteries are good to 10 amps. Batteries are happy with a 3 Am charger.
@@bdmvy So I can use my t16 with crossfire on 2W?
@@aeryofpv The charger port puts out 8.4 V at 5,000 mAh. I have a charger port to XT-30 adapter which can be ordered with the pack.
Where can I get your t-shirt? that is so cool
Rotor Riot store. It comes from KwadBox.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you. love your videos! (subscribe to my channel.)
Very good 👏👏
1:14 shame on you Josh "Come back in the morning ? ! " "I'm Joshua Bardwell and I'm going to burn my house down today" But in all seriousness, I'm sure you did not mean that literally. Z
Charging this type of LiIo cell at a very slow rate is different than charging a LiPo that has been bashed around and may be damaged. You leave your cell phone charging overnight right? It's not any different in my opinion.
Yeah I've been charging my ebike battery overnight for over a decade now without worry. I've twice replaced the cells in the packs I have, because it was 1/3 the price of a new pack. First time I swapped out the 28x 18650's for new ones, 2nd time I figured out I could put 14x 5000mAh lipo cells in - they were both tricky soldering jobs, had to make sure to not short circuit *anything* to avoid bad things happening.
@@JoshuaBardwell good to know, thanks JB ! ;)
Lol, all those battery powered toys. Still uses corded drill. Awesome
"Maybe you don't have a drill bit" So instead of spending 2 dollars on a bit just wreck your soldering iron tip.
I use the soldering iron tip on occasion for specific projects, never had melted plastic wreck an iron tip as of yet ...
Its only soft plastic it wipes right off the iron nomdamage whatsoever
@@dazzdoodlzfpv1020 In my experience anything other than solder on the tip will lead to corrosion sooner or later.
@@thirtythreeeyes8624 I 100%agree with you I shouldve been more specific i use an old bit and its a large one I never ever use i agree I wouldn't use a bit that is still serviceable
And its still shiny as shit no corrosion whatsoever...sorry im at work ....
Nice option but $50 to charge a radio I payed $150 for is too steep for my blood. I'd just put an RDQ Series 7.4V 2S 3000mAh FPV Goggle LiPo Battery w/ Charge Indicator.
TRexHeliPilot remember that you are getting two high capacity LiIon cells. And those don’t come with the radio that is already cheap for what it offers.
Will these cells fit inside a Qx7 battery bay? I’d love to do this mod to mine.
The larger cells shown might be too thick.
Kyle K I was thinking the same thing, but I have a 4000mah 2s lipo in there now, so I may just figure out a way to add external charging to that.
Aloft hobbies sells a charging mod for the qx7. Costs about $10 and works great.
a file may have been useful to clean up the hole?
I. I did that. Did you not see the part where I filed the hole?
@@JoshuaBardwell I have a $2.99 ream from Harbor freight. Drill a little under size and ream to suit, www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-reamer-66936.html
Bob is going to be very busy for a while lol.
I was not aware that Joshua had done the review and I took more orders in the first 12 hours than in a typical month! Busy is an understatement, starting to feel like a Chinese piece worker but I really appreciate the review!!
@@bdmvy I was one if those orders lol. This isn't like a critical mod, more of a quality of life. I think most people will be patient.
Taranis X9D 2019 charges fine off any USB power... Great for traveling,
This is what I wanted to say also. Joshua, there was a time you were more thinking outside the box.
X9D is shit. T16 has multimodule inside, is cheaper and you don't support those Frsky bastards, who blackmails Jumper sellers
Nice
Like tubro on a car
2500 mAh Lipo last for weeks but 3000+mAh 18650‘s are draining quicker? I don‘t get how that can be true.
I can confirm. My x9d got tons and tons of flights out of the stock 2000mah nicad. 10 packs back to back and the battery wouldn't even blink. The jumper T16 is maybe getting 20 tiny whoop flights out of a pair of VCT5s (2600mah) before it needs a recharge. I suspect the T16 is just power hungry as hell. I'll have to check the current draw between the 2.
I recently did a power test of my T16 with Crossfire, it draws 400mA from the cells when the backlight of the screen is at full, and 350mA when dimmed.
Somebody get this guy a cordless drill.
cordless drill battery packs are too expensive and too quick to fail. unless you use a drill at your job and charge it every single day the packs will eventually go bad. for most people a corded drill makes more sense. full power, every single time, no $120 battery packs to worry about babysitting.
You know, you do have a psycho side. There's no way to get that look otherwise. Great video Joshua...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
So how is this special? Just add a barrel jack to your radio and charger with you regular lipo charger. Only cost is the plug
I’ll stick with my x9 , it didn’t require any mods.
X9d plus SE 4 life
"If you know a bit about electronics, you probably know you can build this for less than $50, but you didn't, did you? He did."
Just because he's done it doesn't mean I can't just go and still make my own. I've looked up the parts, and it'll be a *lot* less than $50. More like $20. This thing is a rip-off. And needing its own special charger? Absolutely not acceptable. Much easier to charge from usb - you can even charge at 2A. And if you're making it yourself, you can design it to either not require any holes (and you charge by just taking off the battery door) or only holes in the (replaceable) battery door, thus not voiding your warranty.
@@zeusofcrete9927 Snide remarks will get you nowhere.
@@zeusofcrete9927 I started by putting a how to on the web and then folks started asking if I could build them for sale. So first you need to start with a really good quality spot welder so you don't fry your batteries with a soldering iron, then you need to order batteries that are both certified and in volumes of hundreds to get a reasonable price. Don't forget the other components, connectors, packaging, postage, and then your time. Since you seem to be prepared to work for free, I'll "hire" you to put kits together. Takes about an hour or so, then there's the 1/2 run to the post office and back. Total rip off!
No Thanks, Too expensive, too tight in compartment. How hard to take "normal" pack out to charge? Rather use the "expensive" lipo/lion /lifi charger already have