This Part Over Heating Can leave You Stranded!
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- In this video I go over the steps on how to prevent your EKP (low pressure fuel pump) module from overheating and leaving you stranded or giving you issues. Make sure to leave a like and subscribe for more videos in the future!
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Here are the links to all the parts and tools in the video!
Thermal Pads: www.amazon.com/100x100x1-5mm-...
iFixit Kit: www.amazon.com/iFixit-Pro-Tec...
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I drove from Houston to BR. A 4 hour drive. The temps out were 106. My car just killed about a hour from destination. First received the drivetrain malfunction warning. Then the Fuel Supply warning. Sat on the side of the road for tow truck to arrive for 4 hours. When the truck finally arrived the car cranked right up! I guess the module overheated and eventually cooled down. This video was helpful!
Thank you for showing this to us. I hadn't yet heard about this and am about to put my new Walboro pump in.
W repair this actually works i used corsair XTM70 thermal paste and it works i never had the issue again even after hours of hard driving
Thank you man, I have this exact problem on my car saying drivetrain malfunction and fuel supply problem
This video help a lot it happens to me to I thought I was the only one I’m happy i seen this video thanks a lot
glad we could help!
Thanks for this.
Just got the fuel supply warning and control voltage too low fault code when i scanned the EPK module. My car is a 2013 740li with the N55 engine and original fuel pump at 160k miles. After 35-45 minutes of driving depending on the outside temperature the car will stall. If your LPFP is weak it will damage the control module so i decided to replace both module and pump. If you’re at higher mileage i highly recommend doing the in tank fuel pump anyway which is not an expensive part. Got both factory parts brand new for around $600 from FCP EURO. Car runs lovely again and at full power.
Stacking the thermal pads will be an improvement but buying the right thickness pad will reduce the number of pad interfaces. Each interface will have an efficiency loss. My X5 has this issue (stock, 3L non-turbo). Seems like they overheat, car shuts down, and then once it cools, the car will start right up. Most of your heat will be from the MOSFET (big thick IC). There is also likely a temp sensor in there (or they use the built-in one sometimes found inside of the microcontroller). If they use an external temp sensor, these types of sensors can 'age' and their tolerances/accuracy can degrade slightly. I'll open up mine and take a look at the electronics (I do this for a living), and see if I can help add more detail to this video. Great video, and thanks for sharing! =)
If he used .5mm thickness pads and had to put 6 layers, do you think 1 layer of 3mm thickness would work better? Or maybe 3 layers of 1mm thickness so I have some adjustability?
Thanks for this. I had the same problem when to best buy bought paste and just put it on on the module and it works good now.
Like you put the paste on the back of the module and it helped your issue?
@@SendNoodNoDudes yeah pretty much. After doing this little modification I haven't had a single issue since.
It really works with that thermal heat pad?
Meaning the heat would be channel off from the circuit board itself with these thermal heat pads?
Btw, what’s the error message pops up on your idrive and your BMW model?
@@SendNoodNoDudes what paste do I can get it today
So you used thermal pad thickness of 1.5mm? I see some use 0.5mm on spoolstreet forums. Thanks
Hello i have a 2006 bmw 530i it wont start and it shows this on my scanner could that be the problem? ekps (fuel pump control module) control current too low
I have a 08 335i n54 stage 2+ just installed stage 2.5 fuel pump (no e85 tune yet) and as soon as I step on the gas to do a little pull I get the 2aae fuel pump code in mhd. I am only getting the code though no symptoms or nothing. Will adding these thermal pads prevent that code from showing up
Does this affect the f30 chassis i had a similar issue thought it was fuel pump replaced it couple months later on a texas hot day and it stalled on me waited couple min, unplugged my fuel pump plug it back and it was okay
Have 450 Walbro, never had a problem with the EKPM2. Imo it’s a higher quality design than the M3.
hey so my 328i is doing stalling after letting car warm up and wont start until i wait about 15 to 20 min. but the mechanic shop said it might be the sensor located on my negative battery cable
Do you have 2FCA or 2FDA codes when the car shut off and try to crank it again?
Damn man i think this worked. I had 2 fuel error codes back to back in a 15 minute time frame. I did this and i havent had the code come on for 500 miles. I hope its this because summer is comming. Now when i touch the back of the module the silver heat plate is hot so i think the heat transfer is working with the pads
Can you do a replace video please!
Do the EPK replacement video please! Thanks in advance
Ciao ,a me si brucia il fusibile della pompa del serbatoio può essere epk? Grazie
this issue has been happening to me and my 2012 bmw 328i and i found this video, just wondering how thick the thermal pads should be to make it the most efficient. Since for me my car always stutters and shuts down after driving for about 30 minutes or so
I have the same problem with my 2012 f30. I thought my car ran out of gas the first time as I had 30 miles left and it said fuel supply low. Today, it shut off again alerting “fuel supply low” and then losing power. I’ve noticed that’s when it’s really hot that’s when it tends to happen.
What wheels are those HRE?
PC graphic card type mod. Seems like a smart fix.
How is it working? Has adding these pads and paste fixed your EKP module overheating problem when using a Walbro 450?
Yes everything has been running perfect ever since. Ive done many long drives and the car no longer stalls and my long crank has definitely gone away
With failing ekp module, do you experience sputtering and sometimes loss of power? Im getting 29dc code and frequent stalls
I use to get spontaneous stalls about once a week. Trying to restart the car immediately would crank the engine, but it engine wouldn't stay on. Would have to wait an hour for it to restart normally. Last time I disconnected the battery and it restarted after. Can't recall check engine code given, but I'm sure it didn't help me in diagnosing the problem. I switched it with a part from the junk yard, and the problem never happened again in over 2 years.
Could this still be my issue even if ekp codes aren't showing in MHD? It'm getting 29F2 and 29DC. Just installed a brand new HPFP from FCP so I doubt its the HPFP, plus the values on the MHD gauges are showing the HPFP hitting 3k under load and my LPFP hits 90 under load. The car dies after 10-15 minutes of driving. I have to pull over then it'll start back up and I'll have to hurry home before it dies again.
Hey, how did you end up fixing this? I have same issue. New hpfp and somewhat new lpfp
Did you fix this?
You don't need the thermal pads on the larger module. It doesn't handle any significant current. The thicker chip near the connector is what handles all the current. That's why the original "thermal solution" was only on that side.
How can you tell when the module was produced? I have two modules but unsure which number would tell me which is newer
You can tell by the numbers in the modules
thank you for vid it was good info. i'm having that issue now with my 2007 335i after installing fuel it lpfp and pure turbos,car had no issues beforehand then after on long drives or about 15-20 min drives car would either die out or if i turned ignition off it refued to start. experienced the long cranks also. purchased a new EKPm3 module waiting to have installed and hope problem is solved. will a brand new module need to coded to car in order for it to start? or will it still start the car till i can get it coded? did it solve your issue putting in the mats and stiil operating fine ?
Did you solve the issue?
@@kumharkewal7229 yes i changed from an ekpm2 module to a ekpm3 and also installed a Torqbyte pm4 fuel controller setup and car has been great! check out the Torqbyte pm4 website
@@copper067 I’m experiencing the same issues on my 2013 328i. My car turned off in the middle of the road after about 20 minutes of driving. The car wouldn’t turn back on. It would turn but but would not start. After a couple minutes of google searching, I found that a quick fix was to press the unlock and then lock button on the key fob. My car turned on after I did that.
If I switch out the module, do I need to reprogram my car? ( I don’t know how to reprogram). Will my car work if I don’t get the new module reprogrammed? Thanks
@@doinitlive3015 you will need to code the new ekp module to the car. The key fob trick makes the fuel pump prime itself but you will still have cutoff issues and no start only crank. I've purchased the Bpm4 unit from spool street and haven't had anymore problems.
How is this holding up? Was seeing people add a small fan to it but this seems easier.
It has help up perfectly. No issues since!
I recently upgraded to the 450lpfp and now I get the "fuel pump" warning on the screen. My car came with the EKPM3. Did you have to do the voltage fix or do you just keep the module cooler and ignore the faults?
Just keep the module cooler
How do you do a voltage fix?
Question can u code the module with bimmercode are do I need something else also can u code it with wireless adapter with android phone. After I drive my 535i for a while car shuts off wont start but after about 10 or 15 minutes its starts seem like it resets or maybe it cools down.
yes I believe you can
What e blend are you running on the 450?
e50 but you can run up to full e85 on a 450
Happened to me 3 times. Each time had to get towed to mechanic. First they replaced fuel pumps then sensors and on last one the battery. $4k later I found this video and it fixed it 😢😢😢
Damn ! That sucks
Thank you so much it works perfect with my f30 I make like you and zero problem
Thanks bro
Bro Moha Mohammad, are you from Malaysia?
Does your F30 experienced this EKP over heating issue?
Mind to share some thoughts here or perhaps a private whataspp if you’re ok with it.
I’m from Malaysia and I’m experiencing this EKP heating up on my F30 lately.
Any idea for bmw x6 fuel pump driver module location..and wiring diagram ..any help appreciated
that i am not sure of
Mine E60 535 is completely stock and every once in a while the car will stall and I’ll have a fuel pump warning on the idrive.. after about 5 minutes the car starts up immediately. Could this be my problem? Or should I be looking more the fuel pumps
Check codes first, depending on mileage i would recommend both pump and module but the codes will point you in the right direction.
@@gilgonzalez5902 thanks for the reply, I changed the module and the problem hasn’t happened since.
Here's what I learned from my experience with the fuel module overheating:
My car stalled and wouldn't start. Diagnosis: fuel-module overheating. After some research I found that an old/worn fuel pump can cause this because the fuel pump has a lot of draw on the module and causes the module to heat up! A new fuel pump fixed this situation. BTW, a new module costs $600 and was told at the time that it would take 2mos to get it because of backorder. (probably so many were ordered because of unscrupulous mechanics charging customers to replace this as well when it didn't need to be. That's just an empirical guess)
Thank you .I was told the same only Replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I’m hoping it fixed the problem. New mechanic said it was no need to replace the fuel module.
In my case the weak/old original fuel pump damaged the module so in warm weather the module was still overheating after about 45 min of driving. So after replacing the pump in the tank i still ended up needing to replace the module.
I just replaced my fuel pump and my now I have the new module but I don’t want to pay bmws prices
Thank you bro! So a new LOW pressure fuel pump is needed and not a EKP module? Or do I need to get the LPFP and a new EKP
Hey thought I’d chime in on this comment
2012 bmw 535i of 04/12
Fuel supply low warning
Dtc fault 481b01 ekps control voltage low
Replaced the following
Hpfp updated connector
Fuel rail sensor on back of fuel rail along valve cover
Lpfp brand new
Replaced and program/coded ekp
Still receiving dtc fault 481b01
Module still seems to be getting warm after 15 min of driving I lose voltage at the electric pump phase a
I’m burning out in circles on this one if anybody has any tips would be greatly appreciated
Mine shutoff on me otw to work. And it was nighttime cus i dont work during the day. And mines just cut off with no prior warnings at all. Got a ekp from another car and it works but i get the fuel error code now but its been driving normal so far. But imma get it coded and see if that helps
was the new ekp from a similar car?
Did you experience white smoke coming out of the exhaust on start up when you were having problems?
no there was no smoke
@@ChicagoE9X got it thank u
So I replaced my fuel pump module, the one that you just replaced and my old one would work for about 15 minutes and then send the car into limp mode. I replace that another car will not start do I have to have it programmed it straight from BMW dealership, the part is, or do I have to disconnect the battery for it to reset itself?
If the module was brand new then yes. In fact, keep in mind that if new, and you don’t program it right away you can actually be damaging your car by running a part without coding to your specific vehicle
HOWEVER, if it’s actually a part that came off the same chassis and base model of your car you should be fine because it was already programmed before
can you use thermal paste instead of the pads?
you probably could yes
Would this cause a fuel pump plausibility code ...my car didn't shut off on its own but when I went to start it after a drive it wouldn't crank then I tried it about 10min later and started right up
That almost sounds more like a battery issue if it didn’t even crank. Fuel pump plausibility is just a code BMW throws around for no reason and usually means nothing about the fuel pump
If the module was completely done would it throw injector cut out codes and high pressure codes?
it shouldn't no
Im getting in my f10 n55 a code 11A210 - Low pressure fuel system,plausibility:Power of electric fuel pump is to high for actual pressure. Im runing stage 3 and also have installed walbro 450lpfp, what do you think can be ?!
Hey do you still have these codes
I switched my fuel regulator because of the gas leak. And usually the car runs good but then acts like I don’t have fuel pressure. You think it’s this? Usually I wait a little and then the cars act cool but then goes back to turning off like if there’s no fuel pressure.
You could give it a shot to see it won’t hurt anything. Could also be hpfp or the lpfp itself
i have a f30 335i and cant figure out how to get off the leather piece thats covering the ekp module any idea? cant find anything anywhere abbout it
it might be different for F30's so I would double check but if it is there you just have to pull toward you pretty hard
@@ChicagoE9X yep got it and swapped out the module with a new one and still have the code I think it needs to be reprogrammed
Do u think I should just try the heat pad thing on the original instead
I have an issue when I run E30 blend on pure turbos. Car sputters and backfires during WOT at peak; rail pressure crashes. I upgraded to a warlboro 450 thinking it was toast but I get the same exact issue. My car will also stall on cold starts every now and then too even on a pump gas daily tune.
Sounds like hpfp failure
@@ChicagoE9X - I think I'm having the same issue with my M2. Started after running an e30 blend. We've checked coils, replaced the plugs, replacing the LPFP today. The car hesitates on cold starts and takes longer to start. Sometimes it stalls. Then runs fine until WOT. Stock tune it runs almost perfect. Sputtered once. Anything more aggressive, fuel system crashes. I have both the LPFP and HPFP upgraded for over a year. Never had a problem until recently... Did you ever figure it out?
@@greendotadvertising It did end up being the EKP module. This should be fixed for newer generation cars i believe but I can look into it and get back to you. It could be the LPFP
If you need more cooling any slim laptop fan with a restrictor could be wired in, or soldier to power source. Have a 3d printed bracket so it matches the added thickeness and longer screws threaded. maybe a larger fuse would need to be installed, check current draws. Probably wire off the power from module or an accessory that runs when the car turns on like an accessory light. It will definetly help if the pillar has enough gap, on interior delete builds its a definite solution seen it work with the extra thermal pads
After I've replaced my stock fuel pump with Walbro 450 stage 2 unit I have that error in my I-drive regarding the pump for a few seconds.This error appears only after 1h time driving on the highway, immediately when I incrise the speed...After I decrese the speed, the error disappear and its keep coming back everitime I increase it....I dont have any issue with my car regarding this error, the car is running fine, only this message in the Idrive is the problem, so hopefully this solution will fix my problem.
yeah definitely try it!
Thanks for the vid, i had this happen today on a stock fuel pump, got 2 errors 6292 ekp: voltage too low and 6293 ekp:current too high. When i cleared them and tried starting again it would start for a second and stall. Went out a few hours later and tried and it started so I assume its the over heating problem as I'm logging good pressures on low and in the rail. Wondering if this is just bandaiding a unit thats on its way out, or if the original units that came in these cars were faulty and worth just buying the newer version.
EDIT: interestingly, I notice the P/N on yours is 16147276046 where as the replacement one they have listed on FCP is 16147229173 🤔
the ekp3 modules are definitely worth buying but honestly doing this is good practice anyways since they can still overheat due to the nature of the placement and having no fan
Hi mine only appear to ekp: voltage too low but no current too high. Is my module or lpfp that need change. Or i need to change both?
or should i just put gpu thermal pad on them. These module pretty expensive in my country :)
@@ayn30 I wound up replacing mine and it solved the issue. I bought it from fcp euro. I don't know if you can order from them from your country but if you can, it's worth it. They have a lifetime warranty on all parts, no questions asked. So you can use it for 50k miles or whatever, buy a new one, send back the old one and they will refund you the price for the original one, pretty sweet deal.
@@_jovian I am from south east asia. So basically the shipping from europe will cost more than item values.
Had it happen to me since last year, every summer it stalls, but in the winter I drive smoothly, I haven't replaced the module, I already have a new one but I can't seem to get of the side of the seat, I already took off the bottom seat, but it's hard to take off the right side, now usually every summer here where I live it gets at 110F but on the winter it never stalls so I'm thinking it's the module, I've been getting the car/lift code but that was later on I don't think it's because of the module, on another note how can I check if my lights need new battery replacement or if it's the bulbs, the headline from the right and the left on the back don't seem to light up....
I would start by just replacing the bulbs since theyre way cheaper than a battery
@@ChicagoE9X and what about the car stalling? You think it would be the module?
@@MistahmiZheJAH it could be
test battery and alternator with a multimeter
What if you drill holes in plastic part to allow cool air to come in
Small holes may work yes but I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing that because then you can get moisture build up in the module.
Can I use Thermal Paste or Thermal Grease ?
Probably can use either
Hello, thanks for the video, it comes at the right time for me as I am about to upgrade my LPFP. If I keep the fuel pump control model, do I still need to re-code just for the LPFP? Many thanks in advance.
no lpfp is just drop in plug and play
@@ChicagoE9X thanks🙇🏻 will have it done today🙂
@@anthonysychung214 how did the fuel pump install come out ? Did you have a problem ?
Know I'm late on this... But what was the error you received when the overheating happened? I'm assuming it's similar to what I saw (low signal to EKPS as it was shutting off?)
we never got any errors or codes the car would just5 randomly shut off
I just started dealing with this issue too. No check engine light, like many said, the car just shuts off and the only light I would get is the car on the lift with the message of service engine soon.
@@ChicagoE9X I just finished putting the thermal pads on and even the thermal paste on the cover but now it shuts off even sooner and it’s not even hot out. It idles rough just before shutting off. Any suggestions?
@@OOrtiz87 sounds like the car isn't getting any fuel. Make sure everything is plugged back in. If everything is good then lpfp or hpfp is out
@@ChicagoE9X Gas light is on, only has 36 miles left (wife left it almost empty) maybe if I can fuel up it’ll correct itself? Wishful thinking.
What if it already over heated, could I still do this
yes. ours overheated multiple times and this still fixed it
Do you have the link for inpa?
I don't sorry but if you google how to download it I believe there's a tutorial
Can you please post a video how you replaced it, or tell me how you replaced it
Vehicular DIY made a good video on how to replace the module. This is just to fix overheating
@@ChicagoE9X I ended up buying a cheap ekp module off ebay pulled from an 09 128i. The mechanic installed a cpu fan in the cover so it wouldnt over heat again. so far it has worked
@@aannalese still workimg since you did that?
The ekp module over heated and left me stranded twice on my 128i
i got like low voltage on ekp , do yo know what is that mean ?
You may just need a new unit or a battery issue
Hey I have a couple questions to ask you
So my car would turn off when module over heats, today my amazing heat transferred arrived ( the link in your description) they were pretty thick of a layer, I did exactly as you said to do and now my car turn off in 1 mile distance, today on my way home it turned wfg about 8 times on me. Kinda sucks
the module could be completely done unfortunately. This solution is to help prevent the module from frying itself but in this case it may have been too late
Buy one from ebay and code with NCS. I'm gonna try that soon.
Mustafa, Have you resolved this. I didn’t the same thing and my car also stalls in one mile. Thinking about adding a small cooling fan
I actually figured it out. Most thermal pads have heat conductivity of about 12W/k. Iron has 40w/k, aluminum has 230w/k ..so by installing a thermal pad between two metal plates, we’re actually making things worse (poor heat transfer). Unless you use extremely thin thermal paste that just fills the groves in the metal.
Best bet would be using some heat sinks (10$) and a small fan. Or buy a new ekps
@@ChicagoE9X Can I bypass coding on the module and just jump starting the starter. Or do I have to code it by computer?
Unhooked my negative cable and did the DIY on my module, when I re-hooked the negative cable and hooked up the module it cranks but no start?? Help! What could it be??
Ever get a answer for this ?
Why did you disconnect the battery in the first place? This module is wired with a simple 12v connector... It's not like an airbag that can detonate in your face. Now it's impossible to say what has happened... Maybe you killed the module while applying the pads/paste if you weren't careful with it?
Yo man, you know if this happens on a b58 also? just had my whole car stall out and throw a fuel pump code and wouldn’t start at all afterwards
it shouldn't be happening on b58 but you never know with bmw's lol
What did u find out? My b58 did the same thing.
@@codyway7424 it was the lpfp under the back seats. I was running the car stage 2 and the mistake I made was running the tank empty which was burning out the lpfp due to the increase in more fuel being needed for the tune
Idk if you ever notice when you’re low gas and you get into high rpm’s the car kinda falls on its face it’s because the lpfp is burning out
@@SlowG70 I'll watch for that. No tune, half tank of gas, came out of a restaurant and it would start and run a few seconds then quit. Towed home. Nest day it started right up. I'm taking it to a shop with the bmw software next week to let them see if they can tell anything.
A cheaper iFixit Kit Alternative is STREBITO Screwdriver Sets 142-Piece Electronics Precision Screwdriver with 120 Bits. Its half the price.
Precision Raceworks says no ekp replacement needed for there stage 2.5 v2 pump.
It technically isn't needed but this can still happen even on stock fuel pumps.
@@ChicagoE9X just ordered ekp3 for my stage 2.5 walbro 535 v2. Heard that revised version draws less current.
Was there a recall on the fuel pump control unit itself as well? I know there was a campaign for the high pressure fuel pump itself.
No I do not believe there is anything for the control unit at all
its on nhtsa site for f30 335i. but bmw dealership is straight up denying it! basically tells me i have to pay for 350 diag fee no matter what and that he sees no recalls whatsoever. PSYCHO! i contacted bmw north american they did nothing too!
Yeah BMW North America is the worst. Complete full of issh and useless. The service for these pumps ask to replace the fuel pump control unit as well. Reason being, they control the voltages sent to the pump itself. What has been happening, the original fuel control unit doesn't mate well with the new fuel pumps installed during the campaign so they unfortunately fail again. I went through this ordeal with my N55, different platform, and the dealer tried to pawn off the new repair bill at close to 3k which included a new pump AND fuel pump control unit as the procedure asks for. I had a disagreement with my service advisor and pressed him on the fuel pump issue. The fuel pump is lifetime due to the recall. The control unit is anywhere 150.00 to 300.00 depending on where you shop and not 3000.00. So back and forth for a couple and they wouldn't budge. So I sold the vehicle and done with F'n BMW. FU!% BMW, BMW North America, and that BMW Dealership. Good luck to you all dealing with that brand. The world would be a better place if BMW returned all the money it's owners spent on repairs and the company itself simply goes bankrupt. I'm speaking from experience of owning numerous BMWs. Better off just running them into the ground and throw them in the trash.
@@prospectla6316 man he made me so mad( first he/SERVICE MANGER)gave my friend run around on phone like 20 MINUTES STRAIGHT/ SO I GOT ON PHONE I WAS LIKE MAN WHAAAT IIIIIN TTTTTHE WORLD ARE U TALKIN ABOUT! FRIGGIN PSYCHO I TELL U. he said ok ok ok ok ok that hed get rt on it (call north america to speak to lady i told him i spoke with).lady enver called me back so i KNO HE DIDNT CALL HER JERKOUT never called me back either and I NEVER CALLED HIM BACK! man what a sorry pos! he literally denied/said he couldnt see 3 recalls on nhtsa( u cant miss em!) , i said by law u have to fix all these! BY LAW! what a jerk out! man if european bmw new american dealerships were doin this to their brand i bet u theyd do somethin bout it. this is trash like u said! good quality but american dealers turn it to trash and really REALLY make it down rt disgusting bein that way.itll come back to em when their wives/husbands leave em, theyre broke, on crack/alcohol wondering why life treated them sooooo badly.. lol
its not life time(lpfp for n55) but it is a SUPER extended warranty on the pump, like until 2026 and or 150,000 miles. which i have plenty of that left! i did call north america back and ANOTHER JERK, told me last lady i spoke with didnt kno what she was talkin bout! i bout sht myself! REALLY???????????????????? toyota dealerships here doin it also! toyota in japan dealers give u all sorts of free sh@t.. let u come to dealerships and eat free, party do whatever u want. man i wouldnt go to another dealership here if THEY paid me a years worth o gas or fixed a recall! the stress isnt worth it that alone! this is why there are hackers but people wanna put them in jail! what? theyre only hope america has!
@@jackhere4594 unfortunately it's a game of Money. BMW doesn't care cause the money is always coming in. The minute they will care is when the money stops. That includes leases and etc. The 1% doesn't care, cause they are throw away cars to them. It's all about what makes sense in terms of the dollar when buying, selling, or leasing these BMW vehicles. People need to treat the brand like the 1% do, run them into the ground and throw them away and understand the cost in the process. Either use the loss as leverage in a business for a service or product roll out or something else. As long as BMW continues to build cars, Engine leaks and Failures will continue to exist. It's all about what side of the dollar you are on when it is time to dump the vehicle.
Yours was turning off during driving?
Mine was yes but only in warm weather. In the winter it was perfect.
will this works for f30 335i?
Yes but check your codes for voltage codes.
I can’t locate the fuel pump module, I have checked both rear passenger sides. Where else can it be located? Thank you.
I have a 2009 335i 4 door it's by the back passager seat on the side paddling.
It’s definitely not there, I’m starting to think maybe my model doesn’t have one to begin with?
Step by step guide
ua-cam.com/video/GxrgZB9r9Lw/v-deo.html
Thanks Sam, but my model doesn’t seem have that part on either side, I have checked both sides 🤔 it’s very strange!
What make and model is your car exactly
Would this cause the car to stall and hesatation when accelerate the car and my fan acts like thatcdar overheats
usually no that could be an injector, hphp, or lpfp issue or even sparks and coils. I would start with the cheapest items first
@@ChicagoE9X I did all the injectors and coils spark plugs ass well already
@@jorarr5174 is lean towards high pressure fuel pump then. Are you getting any codes?
@@ChicagoE9X no codes at all just sometimes I come to a stop an stall and I press the gas and wont go it goes slow but if I turn the car of them on everything back to normal speed
I replaced mine and coded it and car still doesn’t start , only code I have is 006295 , all fuel pumps were replaced less then 7 months ago
Interesting it might not be a fuel issue then
will the module need coded if you unplug it? i do not intend on buying a new 1, i want to try this mod 1st
no not if you use the same one
@@ChicagoE9X fab ty. ordered the heatsink pads will keep you updated.
im hoping my module isnt fried as it has only cut out 3times over the past month.
@@sagzr6566 yeah let me know. should be okay
@@sagzr6566 How did that work out for you?
I have a E70 X5 35i. Same issue stalls in warm weather after 5 miles or so. Wait about 10 minutes, then all good. Already replaced the hpfp.
Hey man is this still holding up? I am facing the same issue and want to know how it does long term so i dont have to buy a new module because the price is ridiculous.
yep still holding up and no more problems!
Exactly my thoughts.
EKP module price is way too ridiculous & still it might had chances of breaking down yet again.
When it overheated did you get an engine malfunction
nope it would just shut the car off :/ no codes or limp mode
@@ChicagoE9X my car didn’t shut off it popped up a break light and a triangle with a circle with a arrow and it kicked into limp
i need help coding, i have a working kdcan and inpa/ista
online forums dont help much
How is this holding up? I'm curious. I currently have a e60 535i and lately it's been stalling out and throwing a "fuel pump" malfunction message. I really feel like the EKP is indeed overheating.
it has held up perfectly... no issues since
Same here .. like it over heats ... i pull key out and as soon as iscreen turns off and dash lights go out it resets and car starts right up again
Hey bro, if you smell something smoking in your car check that out asap!
How much is it for one of those ??
$90 on ebay.
Why do you keep calling it an EPK module? It's EKP
IF THIS WORKS FOR MY n55 IM SAVING $700. Thanks for the great video. Hopefully I don’t fuck this up haha
Did this help you?
Nah your shit is clean
Has your module given you any problems?
Not since doing this fix no. It’s been perfect
Just when I thought I was the N54 king and seen it all. EKP huh? 1 Low and high pressure Fuel pump later....
dealership dead ass charged me $1200+ just to replace this $93 part and my fuel pump started to act up again after 5 days of them " Fixing it "
damn I'm sorry to hear that
How do we know if we need to change module?
And if need to change, how can we reprogram?
we found out by replacing the hpfp as well as double checking the lpfp and it still wasn't working. So that's when you should check the module
@@RS-co6nv vehicular diy made an excellent video on how to reprogram a new module so definitely go check that out.
Changed the module. Reprogramming was not needed for my vehicle. Hope it won't stop on the road
@@RS-co6nv ye it's possible the module was already programmed from whoever you purchased it from. Hope it works out!
Are you still replying to this video?
of course
@@ChicagoE9X i have a 08 328i e90. My car is having the same problem. Randomly turning off while driving mostly after a hour or two of driving or 40 or so mins of idling. then shows car on the lift light. After 5 - 10 mins it will start up again no problem Sometimes it die 10 minutes later down the highway. I had the eccentric drive shaft replaced and that didnt fix it. Now im thinking its the fuel pump control module . any advice?
@@user-zt7zk5ll6d you could try doing this fix to see if it works. You’ll also want to look at the fuel pump and make sure there’s nothing obvious wrong like lines disconnected or cracked.
@@user-zt7zk5ll6d did you get it fixed ? I’m having the same issue. Just replaced my fuel pump on a 328xi and I’m still stalling at 60mph. maybe it’s my module
@@gabrielsterling1196 i have not yet. Im currently working on the problem Still
Are you still commenting on this video? I have a question
Tried this… my car started but then immediately died when giving gas . Now it just crank an won’t start.
very smart im about to do that to mine. i been looking for a cheaper solution to this fix for months hopefully it works thanx alot ChicagoE96X.
I just replaced my fuel control module after my e90 kept randomly shutting off. Replacing it seemed to fix the stalling issue this far however now it doesn't always start on the first try. Now if I go into a store and come back to it 20 minutes later. It won't start until I lock the doors and let the car reset. Any idea what could be the issue now?
Did you get it coded after getting replaced?
@@Malika12321 no I didn’t have to do any coding. It was plug and play.