Man the video editing and quality has mad major improvements over the years. It’s like watching a major production type of show. Keep up the awesome work guys.
@@devonwainstein9188 You’re right, Lame. My favorite kind of work to see is the kind done from a really crappy camera angle; preferably with a crappy camera (the crappier the better). If it’s crappy that’s how I know I’m witnessing real work being done… even though I can’t really make out what work is being done because of the crappy footage… or if any work is being done at all for that matter. But I don’t care cuz that’s stuffs LAME
IVE BEEN WATCHING YOU FOR YEARS. IVE STARED MY OWN CONSTRUCTION COMPANY THIS LAST YEAR AND CAN DEFFINITLY SAY THAT YOUR VIDEOS ARE MY GO TO WHILE ON SITE AND HAVE QUESTIONS. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. MUCH LOVE FROM SC
I was told in my apprenticeship some 50 years ago when installing T&G as wall or ceiling panelling you should also coat the backside of the board with paint or varnish the same as the finished surface as well as end grain cuts. Nice work...
Your abilities and attention to detail make you one of the best builders I've ever seen. Paying attention to nail gauge, exterior vs interior nails, priming end cuts, on and on, anyone using your talents is going to have the best finished products in the business! You're inspirational, thank you for showing the world how to do it correctly!
I am a do it yourself and wanted to say i have learned so much from your videos and my skills have improved so much because of them. Thank you and keep them coming.
Regarding router bits, there are pattern bits that have both upcut and downcut spiral bits. They leave no frayed edges what so ever. We also have gotten used to down cut spiral bits, for a clean edge for drilling thru
Do you use that bit to trim to the outside of the box? When he used the flush trim bit, that trims flush to the inside of the box but many boxes need to be flush with the finished ceiling so trimming to the inside of the box doesn’t work. I guess the spiral bit would be the solution (?)
I'm never disappointed with you guys. Such craftsmanship and professionalism. It's a treat to see people who care about what they do. Congrats on the new house also. Y'all have a good weekend. 👍💯
Loved this video Richard! The cinematography is constantly improving and the voiceover was a really nice addition. Although the face to face explanations are always enjoyable, it’s nice to clearly watch your workflow while you’re explaining your methods and thought processes. Keep up the good work!!!
I've never seen you do anything other than professionally done. Looks great. I have 5 Dewalt routers for different jobs, great tools. 3 horse in my router table.
I use the router on all cut outs needed. Just clean up corners with a small hand saw. So much easier and faster than measuring all those little cuts. Just pay attention to where your nails are!
VERY impressive video! I have seen more than my fair share of how-to videos, and you pack an amazing amount of detail into yours, very direct, concise, and to the point. Most would have made a video like this take twice as long. VERY high quality carpentry work to boot. Keep up the great work!
That new Metabo cordless 1/2” router would be killer for those ceiling cut outs. Might need to transition to Dewaukeetabo if you’re gonna be doing a bunch more of these ceilings. Also, you aren’t lying about that Windsor One. I did 2 1x panel walls for a customer recently. Convinced him to go with Windsor One and it turned out phenomenal. It also helped that the product shares the same name as me lol.
Your videos are awesome keep them coming. You’ve sold me on WindsorOne. I’m down in south Florida and was able to order some WindsorOne header cap. I’m impressed with them and if I could I would buy all my wood from them but unfortunately my order took 3 weeks.
Painter in Sarasota, FL - no good exterior primer (MicroTite) for 8 months, and exterior premium paint (SW Emerald Rain Refresh) is as rare as hens teeth right now.
if I don't have a mallet, sometimes I use a drop piece of that material as a block to smack the pieces into place, but you have to mock it up to the groove so the piece you're installing doesn't get damaged
Greetings from Houston, TX brother! Keep up the good work! Also great tips that you shared. I'm glad you discovered the router solution to those cutouts. A lot of time and stamina saving!
Your videos are ridiculously thorough. You’re like a one stop stop for a diy’er. How does the router not damage something inside a hole for a light? What if I have a junction box there?
I do the same tongue nailing/blind nailing when I do t&g boards or flooring on ceilings or soffits. I do add PL Premium adhesive on the back of the boards. Better to be safe. You can see an example on my fabric track tutorial video.
A little tip too (I have some of the pickiest clients as you can imagine) I not only use a mallet but also a scrap piece of the material we are working with to butt up those seams. i just keep a few on my pouch with the tongue side out
Another great video! Maybe a quick efficiency tip vs having separate router cuts for each half of hole - after you put first board up drill 1" hole with a spade bit, then after fitting second board one-step router cut for whole hole. If you want a reference (so you know roughly where you're going you can always draw a quick half circle on the first board with a pencil (although if you consistently place the hole at what you might call 12 o'clock, you can skip the pencil mark . Maybe not huge, but with a large number of cuts you do half the number of router events and you're only picking up/setting down the router once for each complete hole. And you can even leave all the router cuts till the end with this method. But of course nothing wrong with what you did.
Wouldn't you get a more accurate moisture reading by using the cut end of the board instead of going through the prepped side of the wood? Just asking because I don't know.
@FinishCarpentryTV - Another great video! …I noticed you didn’t prime the router cuts, why is it important to seal off the end cuts of the board but not the router cuts? Won’t they also try to suck up the moisture?
As usual Richard your videos are fantastic. You mentioned on your first board to make sure your measurements are accurate so you don't have a smaller portion of board at the end. Could you explain how you do the calculations.
Back in the day tongue and groove was always the "utilitarian" lumber and was priced cheap. It was used for roofing, sub flooring and just about anything that you needed a base for. Now it's painted pretty white, not even kiln dried and is now considered as top grade. Oh my, how things have changed...lol.
If the router bit matches the inside dimension of the can light, how will it work with can lights that are set up for 1/2 material without planning to use shear? You would need the outside dimension of the can light. Special router bit?
15:39 We’re doing a similar install on our porch ceiling and I would like to know if we should be caulking between the boards before painting? There seems to be a difference of opinion on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Would a high humidity climate eventually cause the brad nails to weaken ? I want to do this on the underside of the deck but I feel like I would have to use staples ? Great info
Great stuff, your work is always A1, and ur video editing is on point. I just get this vibe, idk it's different this and the last video. Idk, it seems like your reading a script, which is not a problem, however it's not truly you. Idk, maybe it's me, I obviously don't know you to even throw in my 2 cents, but I guess I'm just venting, for my sake. Love the channel, love the quality of your work, beautiful family, can't wait for next vid! If I'm wrong, it's merely an observation.
How do you trim out for can lights, etc when the boxes are mounted to be flush with the finished ceiling. I don’t think a flush trim but would work in that instance. And if the boxes are raised, the mounting screws wouldn’t be long enough. Enjoy the videos!
New subscriber! I'm wanting to make coffered ceilings on my porches. I currently have vinyl so I have a couple of questions. One would be how would I transition in between the wood to vinyl? I also live in Alabama where there's no access to Windsor One so would mdf be fine since it's going outside? Thanks
We did a job about 6 weeks ago on a modular building. One half of the building was completely finished with tongue and groove pine board. We had put up about 30 boards on the ceiling when I noticed that something was not right. We seemed to be gaining ground on one end compared to the other. So we measured both ends, and come to find out, we were over 2 inches wider on one end. Measured a few boards and they were all 1/16 to 1/8 wider on one end (same end of the board). I called one of the foreman, told him about the situation and he told us to keep going. We tried spacing the boards on the narrow end but we couldn't make up the ground we had lost. So we had to make a couple of custom boards before we got the other end so it wouldn't show. In the end it turned out ok but what a headache. Before we finished, when we were about 3/4 done, another foreman came to check on our progress. He wasn't aware of our situation so he curious to know why the boards on the wall didn't lined up with those on the ceiling. I told him about the boards, then he said he didn't think the customer would except the work. Not something I wanted to hear but completely understandable. So we stopped, until they could contact the customer. About 20 minutes later we got the go ahead to finish. We were so relieved to hear that. Imagine having to take down over 4000 ft of boards. Having to take it all down and start over to line up the boards on the wall with those on the ceiling would've been a nightmare. I don't know where the boards were milled but their quality control sucks.
Damn! that material really is good. Last time I did tongue and groove it was so warped I had to constantly pry it into place risking damaging the material.
Very beginning you said you check the room for square…my question is what do you do if it’s not? lol I’m assuming create a straight starting point and go from there? perhaps a chalk line?
I'm an owner builder, but not a carpenter. The house has a covered patio such as the one in this video. In your video you installed plywood then Tyvek before installing the tongue and groove. Just curious as to why you installed plywood before TG? It seems more practical. I watched another video that did not use plywood before installing the TG lumber. It may be easier but less area to secure finish nails. I appreciate any comment.
Couple questions since this project is so similar to mine. As far as using router what do you do for canned lights that aren't flush with roofing. Should I have electrician move them higher so they are flush? Also, is it OK to install a tongue and groove on ceiling like the one in this video without plywood sheathing and just Tyvek? I am in PNW? Great video and I will look forward to checking all of yours out.
Man the video editing and quality has mad major improvements over the years. It’s like watching a major production type of show. Keep up the awesome work guys.
I agree! Excellent quality production and it seems like Richard is more direct and to the point. Love it!
@@devonwainstein9188 You’re right, Lame. My favorite kind of work to see is the kind done from a really crappy camera angle; preferably with a crappy camera (the crappier the better). If it’s crappy that’s how I know I’m witnessing real work being done… even though I can’t really make out what work is being done because of the crappy footage… or if any work is being done at all for that matter. But I don’t care cuz that’s stuffs LAME
IVE BEEN WATCHING YOU FOR YEARS. IVE STARED MY OWN CONSTRUCTION COMPANY THIS LAST YEAR AND CAN DEFFINITLY SAY THAT YOUR VIDEOS ARE MY GO TO WHILE ON SITE AND HAVE QUESTIONS. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP. MUCH LOVE FROM SC
Watching you route out those recesses light openings makes me glad to be an electrician. All that sawdust no thanks. Nice work Richard.
I was told in my apprenticeship some 50 years ago when installing T&G as wall or ceiling panelling you should also coat the backside of the board with paint or varnish the same as the finished surface as well as end grain cuts. Nice work...
Your abilities and attention to detail make you one of the best builders I've ever seen. Paying attention to nail gauge, exterior vs interior nails, priming end cuts, on and on, anyone using your talents is going to have the best finished products in the business! You're inspirational, thank you for showing the world how to do it correctly!
That intro made me feel like I was about to watch This Old House! Awesome job Richard.
I think you meant that as a compliment.
I am a do it yourself and wanted to say i have learned so much from your videos and my skills have improved so much because of them. Thank you and keep them coming.
Regarding router bits, there are pattern bits that have both upcut and downcut spiral bits. They leave no frayed edges what so ever. We also have gotten used to down cut spiral bits, for a clean edge for drilling thru
Its called a compression bit.
Man u are no joke. True professional of your craft.
Hello from Anchorage Alaska. Your videos are relevant and spot on. Great tips and tricks.
Hahahha!! Just finished the first part of this video from a few days ago and then this pops up, score !! 😂😂😂 binge watch!
The new visual are crazy..love it...looks like an HGTV show
I respect the fact that your willing to drag a hose around the scaffold to achieve the proper fastening technique good for you brother
I’ve been using the cordless Dewalt trim router with a 1/4 down spiral top bearing bit and it works like a dream
Do you use that bit to trim to the outside of the box? When he used the flush trim bit, that trims flush to the inside of the box but many boxes need to be flush with the finished ceiling so trimming to the inside of the box doesn’t work. I guess the spiral bit would be the solution (?)
Whoa !!! Stepping up n the quality of videos!! I'm so glad you landed well with a place to live..karma is your side for such a wonderful family..
You are 100% correct on Windsor One products. They are the best I’ve ever worked with.
Flush trim bit is a freakin awesome idea. Those boards definitely get the ol whistle of approval.
Good job, dude. I’m going to throw my mom’s new ceiling up based on your lesson here.
For that I’m thankful!
I'm never disappointed with you guys. Such craftsmanship and professionalism. It's a treat to see people who care about what they do. Congrats on the new house also. Y'all have a good weekend. 👍💯
Loved this video Richard! The cinematography is constantly improving and the voiceover was a really nice addition. Although the face to face explanations are always enjoyable, it’s nice to clearly watch your workflow while you’re explaining your methods and thought processes. Keep up the good work!!!
I absolutely agree!!💯
Your filming and editing is excellent - thanks for the videos!
I've never seen you do anything other than professionally done. Looks great. I have 5 Dewalt routers for different jobs, great tools. 3 horse in my router table.
Always waiting for your videos I pay attention to every thing you say. I learn alot from you. You are my teacher.
Nice music for the intro, you have good taste in music and Carpentry!
That is some fine house! I bet working with high quality products makes the job a lot more enjoyable.
Awesome job. Really impressed with the instructions as you build. Watched several of your videos and all of them are first class.
Thanks Richard for the info, kudos to the filming!
Man John really killed it with shots in the beginning there
I liked this video before I even watched it. That’s how good this man is.
You're highly efficient. No wasted motion.
I use the router on all cut outs needed. Just clean up corners with a small hand saw. So much easier and faster than measuring all those little cuts. Just pay attention to where your nails are!
Glad to have you back.
VERY impressive video! I have seen more than my fair share of how-to videos, and you pack an amazing amount of detail into yours, very direct, concise, and to the point. Most would have made a video like this take twice as long. VERY high quality carpentry work to boot. Keep up the great work!
That production has really gotten high quality 👍.
You could have your own show on hgtv lol. Amazing level of skill, thank you for your videos. Love the diamond back rig.
That new Metabo cordless 1/2” router would be killer for those ceiling cut outs. Might need to transition to Dewaukeetabo if you’re gonna be doing a bunch more of these ceilings.
Also, you aren’t lying about that Windsor One. I did 2 1x panel walls for a customer recently. Convinced him to go with Windsor One and it turned out phenomenal. It also helped that the product shares the same name as me lol.
Your videos have come a long ways brotha. Happy for you.
Hey brother, I love your videos. I have learned so much keep up the good work !
Very nice finished look !!!! Router info is GREAT !!
Your videos are awesome keep them coming. You’ve sold me on WindsorOne. I’m down in south Florida and was able to order some WindsorOne header cap. I’m impressed with them and if I could I would buy all my wood from them but unfortunately my order took 3 weeks.
Glad to see you posting more again. I hope that means things are settling down for you and your family, and the move. Nice looking ceiling so far.
Just ordered the dewalt trim router with the plunge base. Amped to get my hands on it.
The materials shortage is really killing us in the NW too man. Your work looks amazing as always. The customers are lucky to have you guys!
Painter in Sarasota, FL - no good exterior primer (MicroTite) for 8 months, and exterior premium paint (SW Emerald Rain Refresh) is as rare as hens teeth right now.
if I don't have a mallet, sometimes I use a drop piece of that material as a block to smack the pieces into place, but you have to mock it up to the groove so the piece you're installing doesn't get damaged
Greetings from Houston, TX brother! Keep up the good work! Also great tips that you shared. I'm glad you discovered the router solution to those cutouts. A lot of time and stamina saving!
Your videos are ridiculously thorough. You’re like a one stop stop for a diy’er. How does the router not damage something inside a hole for a light? What if I have a junction box there?
Man with many talents. UA-cam game strong!
I am enjoying your efforts on your video editing . . .
Every time I watch one of your videos, it makes me wanna do some work. Great job
I do the same tongue nailing/blind nailing when I do t&g boards or flooring on ceilings or soffits. I do add PL Premium adhesive on the back of the boards. Better to be safe. You can see an example on my fabric track tutorial video.
A little tip too (I have some of the pickiest clients as you can imagine) I not only use a mallet but also a scrap piece of the material we are working with to butt up those seams. i just keep a few on my pouch with the tongue side out
Another great video! Maybe a quick efficiency tip vs having separate router cuts for each half of hole - after you put first board up drill 1" hole with a spade bit, then after fitting second board one-step router cut for whole hole. If you want a reference (so you know roughly where you're going you can always draw a quick half circle on the first board with a pencil (although if you consistently place the hole at what you might call 12 o'clock, you can skip the pencil mark . Maybe not huge, but with a large number of cuts you do half the number of router events and you're only picking up/setting down the router once for each complete hole. And you can even leave all the router cuts till the end with this method. But of course nothing wrong with what you did.
Cinematic shots were on point
I don’t know what’s better creating beautiful Millwork projects out of a stack of material or all the cool tools with which to create.
Looks great! love watching how your skills have progressed over the years.. Keep it up!
This is so cool, I’m excited to see the finished product.
You gotta talk about that tool belt ! Looking nice 👍🏽
Two thumbs up for this video. You guys do awesome work and you're a great teacher or your craft.
Awesome video and live that plunge base router!!😍😍🪚🔧🪛🧰
That is a smooth clean install boss. Love the into and the slow mo of you doing the cut out.
Always learn new things from brother thank you. God bless
Good video. Ceiling looks great.
Wouldn't you get a more accurate moisture reading by using the cut end of the board instead of going through the prepped side of the wood? Just asking because I don't know.
NIce work as always Richard. Pleasure to watch your videos
love u guys God bless you greeting from Poland
@FinishCarpentryTV - Another great video! …I noticed you didn’t prime the router cuts, why is it important to seal off the end cuts of the board but not the router cuts? Won’t they also try to suck up the moisture?
Another great video! I really enjoy your channel buddy.
Very nice. I appreciate seeing work done right.
Question: Does it matter if the male end faces out when you start? I have seen it done on UA-cam both ways. BTY, great instructional video!
As usual Richard your videos are fantastic. You mentioned on your first board to make sure your measurements are accurate so you don't have a smaller portion of board at the end. Could you explain how you do the calculations.
Looks great man! I like that router better then my Bosch that I have. Hahaha
Back in the day tongue and groove was always the "utilitarian" lumber and was priced cheap. It was used for roofing, sub flooring and just about anything that you needed a base for. Now it's painted pretty white, not even kiln dried and is now considered as top grade. Oh my, how things have changed...lol.
If the router bit matches the inside dimension of the can light, how will it work with can lights that are set up for 1/2 material without planning to use shear? You would need the outside dimension of the can light. Special router bit?
Loving your work man. Would love a weeks training with you but im in the 🇬🇧 😂
15:39 We’re doing a similar install on our porch ceiling and I would like to know if we should be caulking between the boards before painting? There seems to be a difference of opinion on this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Good stuff like always, maybe you could show people how to fix a situation where it is out of square
Would a high humidity climate eventually cause the brad nails to weaken ? I want to do this on the underside of the deck but I feel like I would have to use staples ?
Great info
Would a 1/4" spiral flush cut bit work better for tearing through that wood like that?
Great stuff, your work is always A1, and ur video editing is on point. I just get this vibe, idk it's different this and the last video. Idk, it seems like your reading a script, which is not a problem, however it's not truly you. Idk, maybe it's me, I obviously don't know you to even throw in my 2 cents, but I guess I'm just venting, for my sake. Love the channel, love the quality of your work, beautiful family, can't wait for next vid! If I'm wrong, it's merely an observation.
How do you trim out for can lights, etc when the boxes are mounted to be flush with the finished ceiling. I don’t think a flush trim but would work in that instance. And if the boxes are raised, the mounting screws wouldn’t be long enough. Enjoy the videos!
Can you do a video on how to do a domed ceiling please?
This video was very helpful 🔥🔥🔥
New subscriber!
I'm wanting to make coffered ceilings on my porches. I currently have vinyl so I have a couple of questions. One would be how would I transition in between the wood to vinyl? I also live in Alabama where there's no access to Windsor One so would mdf be fine since it's going outside? Thanks
We did a job about 6 weeks ago on a modular building. One half of the building was completely finished with tongue and groove pine board. We had put up about 30 boards on the ceiling when I noticed that something was not right. We seemed to be gaining ground on one end compared to the other. So we measured both ends, and come to find out, we were over 2 inches wider on one end. Measured a few boards and they were all 1/16 to 1/8 wider on one end (same end of the board). I called one of the foreman, told him about the situation and he told us to keep going. We tried spacing the boards on the narrow end but we couldn't make up the ground we had lost. So we had to make a couple of custom boards before we got the other end so it wouldn't show. In the end it turned out ok but what a headache.
Before we finished, when we were about 3/4 done, another foreman came to check on our progress. He wasn't aware of our situation so he curious to know why the boards on the wall didn't lined up with those on the ceiling. I told him about the boards, then he said he didn't think the customer would except the work. Not something I wanted to hear but completely understandable. So we stopped, until they could contact the customer. About 20 minutes later we got the go ahead to finish. We were so relieved to hear that. Imagine having to take down over 4000 ft of boards. Having to take it all down and start over to line up the boards on the wall with those on the ceiling would've been a nightmare. I don't know where the boards were milled but their quality control sucks.
John will soon change carrer and become a Hollywood cameraman. 🤩
That looks like it was a fun build.
Damn! that material really is good. Last time I did tongue and groove it was so warped I had to constantly pry it into place risking damaging the material.
I love this channel.
Dude thats not a UA-cam video, thats a damn TV show right there.
Big fan. Love your work. Can you tell me how you adhere the 1x2 to the ply yet still allow the t&g to expand?
Very beginning you said you check the room for square…my question is what do you do if it’s not? lol I’m assuming create a straight starting point and go from there? perhaps a chalk line?
I'm an owner builder, but not a carpenter. The house has a covered patio such as the one in this video. In your video you installed plywood then Tyvek before installing the tongue and groove. Just curious as to why you installed plywood before TG? It seems more practical. I watched another video that did not use plywood before installing the TG lumber. It may be easier but less area to secure finish nails. I appreciate any comment.
Great job!! I love your videos.
Hey Richard great work.. would it be better If you use the 18 gage crown stapler with 2" staples instead of 16 gage neumatic nails?
Did all the lights line up on the Tongue and groove boards? And if not how do you do that after they are installed in the plywood
hello, I’m very interested in how long the work took and how much work did you do in one working day? I will be grateful for the answer
the rectangle holes / slots in ceiling are for heaters and air conditioning ?
Couple questions since this project is so similar to mine. As far as using router what do you do for canned lights that aren't flush with roofing. Should I have electrician move them higher so they are flush?
Also, is it OK to install a tongue and groove on ceiling like the one in this video without plywood sheathing and just Tyvek? I am in PNW?
Great video and I will look forward to checking all of yours out.
Question regarding where you've notched out the speaker and lights - do you have prime those edges as well?
Great job !! Nice and clean look
Still good to go on the DeWaukee lol 😂