In the Fly-By-Wire (FBW) maps, the value in the mapping means: opening degree of throttle valve, not % fuel. It relates a requested throttle position from the throttle grip, to an actual throttle position from the throttle valve. Furthermore, you mean Engine Brake, not break.
Just to be clear, I could have explained that to everyone and made asswipes like u happy or I could just say fueling, because in the end that's what the engine is getting and it's easier to understand. Either way, this video has help a ton of people and u r still one of those "know it all" jackasses that others avoid. So please avoid coming back here... Thanks
@@IamLaR1 , don't cry like e little bi*ch , and say " You are right , i was wrong !" When you don't know the basics , don't pretend that you are a smart ass.
Although i own an MT-07 it was very informative video thank you very much dude! Any idea how do we change the engine braking on this monster torque bike lol. Because there is no ride by wire tab on mt-07 and there is only inj decel false/true setting there. Thanks!
So first make sure that your injectors do NOT cut off, that way u r still getter fuel to ur engine at zero throttle, as u slow down. Then u need to find the maps that correspond to Throttle position sensor and engine RPM. Once u have found those maps then find the "0" % collum ( meaning 0 roll on of the throttle position sensor) and look at the RPMs between 6000 down to where your engine idles at... Mine idle 1200 or so. In this one collum, the "0%" collum, is where u will reduce engine breaking. U r gonna have to add very small amounts of open throttle until ur bike feels the way u want it as it slows down. U will see in that collum that the amount the throttle position sensor is open gradually decreases as the RPMs reduce, so u r gonna want to copy that gradual reduction, but still add small percentages of fuel by adding slight increases in the amount the throttle position sensor is opened. Only add very small amounts each time you flash ur bike...to be safe. U r gonna have to do this for each map your bike is using for each gear. Yes, doing it this way allows u to have different engine breaking per gear based on the map that gear is using. Hope that helped... La
People giving you shit in the comments for essentialy lending a helping hand, they probably Googled it prior to their 2 ¢ so they didn't sound like an ass hat. I've been playing with old tech ( Carburetors ) with every bike I've ever owned so when ( not if ) I get something EFI this will be very helpful
Hey mate, love this video, super informative! I have a 2010 R1, Wondering if i can use the info you shared in the video with a Power Commander V? I just got one cheap secondhand, and looking at installing it.
Hey la, I'm rebuilding an 09 R1 and I believe the ECU was flashed prior to my purchasing the bike. The speedometer does not show any speed whatsoever. I know it's the ECU because I grabbed a buddy's 09 R1 ecu and swapped it with mine and my bike immediately indicated speed when popped into first gear on the stand. Do you have any idea what parameter may or may not have been changed? Best, M
I do not...When I get sometime I will look at the maps. However, if you have the Flashtune Flash software you can re-flash your ECU to the stock image (Flashtune provides), or use their unrestricted image and it will fix any irregularities that someone did when messing with the image on that ECU.
@@IamLaR1 Thanks for taking the time to respond. Unfortunately, I do not have the software and it's basically as expensive as just picking up another ecu off Ebay.
How expensive is the module addon? Is there a need to buy some sort of thing box to add to the bike like power commander etc? I got new exhaust and id need to do this too. Any ideas?
PRUIKKI RACING ...no there is no need for a power comamander because this software gives u direct access to the fueling maps. U might run a little rich/lean with the new exhaust but that can be quickly fixed with a Dyno tune, if needed. If you have my year R1, then u don't really have to worry about the fuel. As u can just use my maps or Tads maps (essentially the same fueling Maps) and u r good to go. The flashtune software basically eliminates the need for any other fuel/ mapping devise.
Yes, but the Dyno Tuner has to have the ability to use the software and some shops don't. The other option is to get the "active tune" sensor, which replaces your O2 sensor (depending on your bike). I have this on my 2016 R1. This sensor constantly adjusts the fueling mixture based on riding conditions and works fantastic.
Hey budd. Can you please tell me which range to adjust specifically. Because I’ve tried doing this and on throttle becomes all jerky. Upto which throttle percentage and up to which rpm cells should i adjust? Thanks
What bike are you on? because by I only have experience on the R1(09-16'). If you are on one of those u can look specifically at my maps. I have them on the FTECU website.
Also, if you want to email me a picture of your maps, I can adjust them that way also... (iamthela11@gmail.com). If you do this, please send me your starting maps and the ones that are jerky and I will walk you thru them. Remember, we are only talking about the TPS maps and not the fueling per cylinder maps. But again, I have posted both of my map images for both my 09' R1 and my 16' R1 on the FTECU share server in the FTECU software.
@@IamLaR1 my bike is the european version MT09 2018. I used the unrestricted file. You can just download from the file manager of the flashtune software. I want only the standard mode to be adjusted. If you can adjust for me would appreciate it very much. You can mail me the file on my email: zosanga69@gmail.com when you’re done. Thanks alot 🙏🏼
Just want to point out that you keep saying that the throttle map is changing fueling, it is not. Those tables are driver requested throttle percent (how much the rider twisted the hand grip) vs ACTUAL throttle plate percentage. So when you are at 12k rpm and you have the throttle pinned 100%, the stock map is reducing the throttle blade to 82.3% opening, IOW its closing the throttle even though you are asking for full open. In the actual TPS fuel maps, it is fueling based on the actual throttle plate opening not rider requested throttle opening. Just want to clear that up as the Throttle maps do nothing to adjust actual fuel injection, just how much throttle plate is open or closed and the IAP and TPS fuel maps are what actually modify the amount of fuel.
Haha...you are correct and I certainly recognize that, but I also recognize that I was more than likely not going to be talking to engineers, but to regular folks that just want a basic idea of what is happening when you adjust a cell and how that directly effects how the bike moves. So...when you adjust those cells it ultimately effects the amount of fuel the engine receives and that is the important part. But thank you brada.👍
@@IamLaR1 its not a guarantee that it will actually add fuel though. Depending on mods of the bike and the area of the curve being adjusted, you very well could still run lean of optimal by upping throttle and also not addressing the TPS fuel map accordingly. Now granted, most people that dont understand this stuff will more than likely just download a map by TAD and flash it and forget it, people trying to learn the actual meaning of the maps should know that this just adjusts the drive by wire throttle map and doesnt necessarily do anything for additional fuel.
@@mattnsac ... U are correct to a point. Provided a person hasn't gone in and actually changed the true fueling maps per cylinder, when you increase the cell throttle% number you are telling your ECU to increase to the next % point in the fueling maps and there for you should be increasing fueling to the engine. This video is not about changing the actual fueling percentages to each cylinder but more how your bike react to on/off throttle.
Unfortunately friend, I do not know what a check sum correction is. I do know that many have flashed their ECUs using this program and Flashtube has really good service (well based on before Covid, but I don't know now). I know that is not a lot of help so sorry.
@@IamLaR1 thank you my friend I am interested in this box but I did not understand how it works all the files in the file manager require a license. user shared file requests a license I want to have more information on these licenses
It only allows me to increase in groups. I have increased till 6% throttle by 2%. The throttle is very sensitive now. Small twist and it pulls suddenly. Bike is Mt09 2018 model by the way. I dont like it so i guess I’ll have to decrease the value again
A couple things...what are u trying to accomplish. If it is to smooth out ur throttle (get rid of the jerk) then u first need to go to the maps for whatever Power Mode you want to adjust (A,B,C or D) and increase the fueling (or how open the throttle is...I call it fueling cuz it is easier) in the 1500 RPM to 6500 RPM cells in the "1" column (the column to the furthest left) of each of the Throttle by wire maps by very small amounts (.10 to .30) for each of the maps being used for your gears. You can find out what maps are being used by each gear by going to the Throttle by wire map section and then going to Gear-map# Index. I think the maps being used for each Power mode are "0" thru "3" and map "3" is being use for gears"3" thru "6". By doing this, you will decrease the engine breaking, but you need to makes sure you are adding fuel in very small amounts, as stated above. Then to smooth things out even more, you need to reduce the fuel (numbers) in each cell of the cells in the columns on the left from column 2 to about column 14 and all the cells in those columns below about 7000 RPM. Again, you need to do this in very small amounts so the throttle rolls on subtly and then slowly increases. I changed most of the cells to get what I wanted. Again, the less amount of fuel in these cells on the left side of the map, the easier the throttle will be. One thing you can do is compare Power Mode D to Power Mode A or B and you will see the difference in the left cells (Power mode D has a very gentle throttle). Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Let me repeat this one more time...please make very small incremental changes form .10 to .30, until you get her perfect.
No you dont want to increase the fueling in those cells. You want to decrease those cells so that the fueling is less. This creates a more gradual roll on and a more controlled throttle response. Please read my other comment.
I will post my 2016 R1 image to the FTECU Website so you can see my maps. Please look at my Mode B. These maps are my normal riding maps which I use 100% of the time, even on the track. Just find Iamthela11 account. I am about half way down in the "user shared files"
In the Fly-By-Wire (FBW) maps, the value in the mapping means: opening degree of throttle valve, not % fuel. It relates a requested throttle position from the throttle grip, to an actual throttle position from the throttle valve. Furthermore, you mean Engine Brake, not break.
Right... dude has no place making this video lol
Just to be clear, I could have explained that to everyone and made asswipes like u happy or I could just say fueling, because in the end that's what the engine is getting and it's easier to understand. Either way, this video has help a ton of people and u r still one of those "know it all" jackasses that others avoid. So please avoid coming back here... Thanks
@@IamLaR1 just make sure you wear your helmet... at all times 😂
@@IamLaR1 , don't cry like e little bi*ch , and say " You are right , i was wrong !" When you don't know the basics , don't pretend that you are a smart ass.
Great break down of how it all work. I've done the same for gen 5 ZX10Rs using woolich Racing maps. FTtune looks similar.
Great informative video! Thanks ;)
My pleasure!
Sir I am one of your fans here in the Philippines can you give me programs how to remap motor thanks
this program is call Flashtune ECU.
Although i own an MT-07 it was very informative video thank you very much dude! Any idea how do we change the engine braking on this monster torque bike lol. Because there is no ride by wire tab on mt-07 and there is only inj decel false/true setting there. Thanks!
So first make sure that your injectors do NOT cut off, that way u r still getter fuel to ur engine at zero throttle, as u slow down. Then u need to find the maps that correspond to Throttle position sensor and engine RPM. Once u have found those maps then find the "0" % collum ( meaning 0 roll on of the throttle position sensor) and look at the RPMs between 6000 down to where your engine idles at... Mine idle 1200 or so. In this one collum, the "0%" collum, is where u will reduce engine breaking. U r gonna have to add very small amounts of open throttle until ur bike feels the way u want it as it slows down. U will see in that collum that the amount the throttle position sensor is open gradually decreases as the RPMs reduce, so u r gonna want to copy that gradual reduction, but still add small percentages of fuel by adding slight increases in the amount the throttle position sensor is opened. Only add very small amounts each time you flash ur bike...to be safe. U r gonna have to do this for each map your bike is using for each gear. Yes, doing it this way allows u to have different engine breaking per gear based on the map that gear is using. Hope that helped... La
@@IamLaR1 wondered if i could do it only for the 1st 2nd and 3rd gear as there is the most engine brake and leave the rest of the gears untouched?
People giving you shit in the comments for essentialy lending a helping hand, they probably Googled it prior to their 2 ¢ so they didn't sound like an ass hat. I've been playing with old tech ( Carburetors ) with every bike I've ever owned so when ( not if ) I get something EFI this will be very helpful
Thank you bro
I try to download and install this program but it show loading loading all day.... How can I fix it.
I turned off antivirus
Hey mate, love this video, super informative! I have a 2010 R1, Wondering if i can use the info you shared in the video with a Power Commander V? I just got one cheap secondhand, and looking at installing it.
I don't have or ever used a power commander but the mapping ideas should be the same.
Nice.....very informative
thank you bro...be safe in all your travels man.
Hey la, I'm rebuilding an 09 R1 and I believe the ECU was flashed prior to my purchasing the bike. The speedometer does not show any speed whatsoever. I know it's the ECU because I grabbed a buddy's 09 R1 ecu and swapped it with mine and my bike immediately indicated speed when popped into first gear on the stand. Do you have any idea what parameter may or may not have been changed?
Best,
M
I do not...When I get sometime I will look at the maps. However, if you have the Flashtune Flash software you can re-flash your ECU to the stock image (Flashtune provides), or use their unrestricted image and it will fix any irregularities that someone did when messing with the image on that ECU.
@@IamLaR1 Thanks for taking the time to respond. Unfortunately, I do not have the software and it's basically as expensive as just picking up another ecu off Ebay.
How expensive is the module addon? Is there a need to buy some sort of thing box to add to the bike like power commander etc?
I got new exhaust and id need to do this too.
Any ideas?
PRUIKKI RACING ...no there is no need for a power comamander because this software gives u direct access to the fueling maps. U might run a little rich/lean with the new exhaust but that can be quickly fixed with a Dyno tune, if needed. If you have my year R1, then u don't really have to worry about the fuel. As u can just use my maps or Tads maps (essentially the same fueling Maps) and u r good to go. The flashtune software basically eliminates the need for any other fuel/ mapping devise.
through this software can't you get a map from a dyno tune where all fueling is adjusted? Then you can test ride and see if you want to make changes.
Yes, but the Dyno Tuner has to have the ability to use the software and some shops don't. The other option is to get the "active tune" sensor, which replaces your O2 sensor (depending on your bike). I have this on my 2016 R1. This sensor constantly adjusts the fueling mixture based on riding conditions and works fantastic.
Hey budd. Can you please tell me which range to adjust specifically. Because I’ve tried doing this and on throttle becomes all jerky. Upto which throttle percentage and up to which rpm cells should i adjust? Thanks
What bike are you on? because by I only have experience on the R1(09-16'). If you are on one of those u can look specifically at my maps. I have them on the FTECU website.
Also, if you want to email me a picture of your maps, I can adjust them that way also... (iamthela11@gmail.com). If you do this, please send me your starting maps and the ones that are jerky and I will walk you thru them. Remember, we are only talking about the TPS maps and not the fueling per cylinder maps. But again, I have posted both of my map images for both my 09' R1 and my 16' R1 on the FTECU share server in the FTECU software.
@@IamLaR1 my bike is the european version MT09 2018. I used the unrestricted file. You can just download from the file manager of the flashtune software. I want only the standard mode to be adjusted. If you can adjust for me would appreciate it very much. You can mail me the file on my email: zosanga69@gmail.com when you’re done. Thanks alot 🙏🏼
Just want to point out that you keep saying that the throttle map is changing fueling, it is not. Those tables are driver requested throttle percent (how much the rider twisted the hand grip) vs ACTUAL throttle plate percentage. So when you are at 12k rpm and you have the throttle pinned 100%, the stock map is reducing the throttle blade to 82.3% opening, IOW its closing the throttle even though you are asking for full open. In the actual TPS fuel maps, it is fueling based on the actual throttle plate opening not rider requested throttle opening. Just want to clear that up as the Throttle maps do nothing to adjust actual fuel injection, just how much throttle plate is open or closed and the IAP and TPS fuel maps are what actually modify the amount of fuel.
Haha...you are correct and I certainly recognize that, but I also recognize that I was more than likely not going to be talking to engineers, but to regular folks that just want a basic idea of what is happening when you adjust a cell and how that directly effects how the bike moves. So...when you adjust those cells it ultimately effects the amount of fuel the engine receives and that is the important part. But thank you brada.👍
@@IamLaR1 its not a guarantee that it will actually add fuel though. Depending on mods of the bike and the area of the curve being adjusted, you very well could still run lean of optimal by upping throttle and also not addressing the TPS fuel map accordingly. Now granted, most people that dont understand this stuff will more than likely just download a map by TAD and flash it and forget it, people trying to learn the actual meaning of the maps should know that this just adjusts the drive by wire throttle map and doesnt necessarily do anything for additional fuel.
@@mattnsac ... U are correct to a point. Provided a person hasn't gone in and actually changed the true fueling maps per cylinder, when you increase the cell throttle% number you are telling your ECU to increase to the next % point in the fueling maps and there for you should be increasing fueling to the engine. This video is not about changing the actual fueling percentages to each cylinder but more how your bike react to on/off throttle.
can you please explain, if you have six maps in standard mode and you are riding on standard mode, is the bike using all of them or ....??? how is it?
actually seven
its save to flash ecu with this tool ? What about cheksum correction ./?
Unfortunately friend, I do not know what a check sum correction is. I do know that many have flashed their ECUs using this program and Flashtube has really good service (well based on before Covid, but I don't know now). I know that is not a lot of help so sorry.
@@IamLaR1 thank you my friend I am interested in this box but I did not understand how it works all the files in the file manager require a license. user shared file requests a license I want to have more information on these licenses
Hey buddy. I tried to edit those cells. It doesnt want to be edited. Can you help me out here please.
Which cells in which maps
It only allows me to increase in groups. I have increased till 6% throttle by 2%. The throttle is very sensitive now. Small twist and it pulls suddenly. Bike is Mt09 2018 model by the way. I dont like it so i guess I’ll have to decrease the value again
A couple things...what are u trying to accomplish. If it is to smooth out ur throttle (get rid of the jerk) then u first need to go to the maps for whatever Power Mode you want to adjust (A,B,C or D) and increase the fueling (or how open the throttle is...I call it fueling cuz it is easier) in the 1500 RPM to 6500 RPM cells in the "1" column (the column to the furthest left) of each of the Throttle by wire maps by very small amounts (.10 to .30) for each of the maps being used for your gears. You can find out what maps are being used by each gear by going to the Throttle by wire map section and then going to Gear-map# Index. I think the maps being used for each Power mode are "0" thru "3" and map "3" is being use for gears"3" thru "6". By doing this, you will decrease the engine breaking, but you need to makes sure you are adding fuel in very small amounts, as stated above. Then to smooth things out even more, you need to reduce the fuel (numbers) in each cell of the cells in the columns on the left from column 2 to about column 14 and all the cells in those columns below about 7000 RPM. Again, you need to do this in very small amounts so the throttle rolls on subtly and then slowly increases. I changed most of the cells to get what I wanted. Again, the less amount of fuel in these cells on the left side of the map, the easier the throttle will be. One thing you can do is compare Power Mode D to Power Mode A or B and you will see the difference in the left cells (Power mode D has a very gentle throttle). Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Let me repeat this one more time...please make very small incremental changes form .10 to .30, until you get her perfect.
No you dont want to increase the fueling in those cells. You want to decrease those cells so that the fueling is less. This creates a more gradual roll on and a more controlled throttle response. Please read my other comment.
I will post my 2016 R1 image to the FTECU Website so you can see my maps. Please look at my Mode B. These maps are my normal riding maps which I use 100% of the time, even on the track. Just find Iamthela11 account. I am about half way down in the "user shared files"
Man that music is incredibly annoying
Thanks for your comment. Dually noted.