Update: I just went and cleaned the bearings in the RX28 G1. I thought they're ceramic bearings, they're not. The bearings are PN Dry steel shielded bearings in the front (4), lubed with Yutori 003. In the motor mount, those bearings (2) are Fast Eddies rubber shield removed and also lubed with Yutori. The RX28SE G2 has Reflex Racing OEM bearing set but flushed out grease and lubed with Yutori 003. Video about the Yutori 003 Lube: ua-cam.com/video/x96cElpBuY4/v-deo.html
Great video TJ! Really good example of good data collection and comparison. Removing as many variables from the testing, such as using the same motor, wheels/tires, and diff to get as accurate data as you can. It also shows how sensitive these cars are to climate conditions. 20f is a big difference, and your data backs that up.
Graeat video TJ I just finished my new 2500kv car and looking very much to racing it this weekend. I also have a new reflex car on the way as we just found out for sure that at the start of the new season for 2500 and 3500kv lipo classes the evo boards and the gl 1.2 esc’s will be outlawed for those 2 classes because they won’t do blinky mode. Evo boards will only be allowed in the 3500kv AAA class so upgrading now so I can get used to them.
Glad you liked the video, thank you! That’s an interesting rules you guys have there. Hopefully we can keep this rules simple so we’re not pushing anyone away from the 28th scale.
Hi! First of all, great videos, I took some ideas on setup watching it! I have a question looking at your rear tires, most of the videos they are almost slick, are you running like this? or do yo put the wheels in the tire truer before drive? Thanks! And sorry for my english hahaha
Hi, I appreciate that. Thank you and your English is perfectly fine. 👍 In this video, all of the cars had Marka 15° radials. The tire treads are gone from driving, not from cutting in the tire truer. I don’t cut my rear tires but if they’re slicks such as Marka 10° slicks, I would scuff the shiny layer on the tire with sandpaper. I use 400 grit.
I have the 1st gen RX28 with the brass chassis. What parts do you suggest to stock up for this? What parts usually breaks or mostly needed for this car? Thanks!
I've stocked up on G1 parts when I bought 3 last year but my RX28 G1 with 2500KV motor has all original parts. I haven't had to replace anything yet. Although in my faster G1 cars, I've replaced some parts. If you are running the G1 with faster motor like 3500KV+, I would suggest to have extra: -Get a couple of those spring perch o-rings. -Get the Brass chassis for spare. Not needed if you run 2500KV only. -Get side links, the G2's if that's compatible.
@@popitn2nd I’m still using the original ones. I also have spare of the G1 ball cups but I’ve never had to use it for any of my 3 G1’s. But like I said, I have some so maybe just keep a spare. They’re cheap anyway.
I’ve only tried these 3 ESC’s: HobbyWing Mini28 GL-SD-ESC-010T GL-BT-ESC-030 And only the GL-SD-ESC-010T works flawlessly with sensorless motors. The GL-BT… also works but there’s a throttle delay that not many notice, but I do.
@@tjaymacRC We're trying the Team Powers esc now, its 30 amp, its the same as PN. Not sure if you travel internationally to race but since Lipo Stock is blinky , esc is critical and they outlawed the old GL esc that people were using adding more static timing to it. cheaters gonna cheat! hopefully its a more level playing field.
No plans on competing anymore after last years PN Regionals. I just can't do 2+ days events anymore... Locally, we don't use ESC timing and our motor are spec motors: Rocket or NHX 2500KV (NHX is slower than Rocket) sensorless so most of the local drivers are running V1.2 or 010T. That said, the GL V1.2 and the GL ...010T to me looks the same, speed-wise. I don't see them having the advantage in speed anywhere on the track.
Good videos as always. I did recently change from an se chassis to the regular g2. My car got insanely light (to me)(167 w/battery, from 178). It took a while to get used to the handling as it felt so flighty. But once i slowed the controls down it felt good. Did my fastest lap with it. I can relate to the aggressive turning feel that you were referring to. And i feel the same way... it wants to be pushed. Otherwise, it will not feel good. Anyways, awesome video!
@@tjaymacRC ahh gotcha, its cool that you have a reliable track you can go to weekly with good competition. I live in Florida and pretty much have to travel to race competitively. trying to get a local scene with the decent racing every week here. Been a mission.
Update:
I just went and cleaned the bearings in the RX28 G1. I thought they're ceramic bearings, they're not. The bearings are PN Dry steel shielded bearings in the front (4), lubed with Yutori 003. In the motor mount, those bearings (2) are Fast Eddies rubber shield removed and also lubed with Yutori.
The RX28SE G2 has Reflex Racing OEM bearing set but flushed out grease and lubed with Yutori 003.
Video about the Yutori 003 Lube: ua-cam.com/video/x96cElpBuY4/v-deo.html
Great video TJ! Really good example of good data collection and comparison. Removing as many variables from the testing, such as using the same motor, wheels/tires, and diff to get as accurate data as you can. It also shows how sensitive these cars are to climate conditions. 20f is a big difference, and your data backs that up.
Appreciate that Eugene and thank you for the feedback!
Awesome Video TJ. Thanks for your hard work. Great data.
Appreciate that Ciesco, thank you!!
Graeat video TJ I just finished my new 2500kv car and looking very much to racing it this weekend. I also have a new reflex car on the way as we just found out for sure that at the start of the new season for 2500 and 3500kv lipo classes the evo boards and the gl 1.2 esc’s will be outlawed for those 2 classes because they won’t do blinky mode. Evo boards will only be allowed in the 3500kv AAA class so upgrading now so I can get used to them.
Glad you liked the video, thank you!
That’s an interesting rules you guys have there. Hopefully we can keep this rules simple so we’re not pushing anyone away from the 28th scale.
Hi! First of all, great videos, I took some ideas on setup watching it! I have a question looking at your rear tires, most of the videos they are almost slick, are you running like this? or do yo put the wheels in the tire truer before drive?
Thanks! And sorry for my english hahaha
Hi, I appreciate that. Thank you and your English is perfectly fine. 👍
In this video, all of the cars had Marka 15° radials. The tire treads are gone from driving, not from cutting in the tire truer. I don’t cut my rear tires but if they’re slicks such as Marka 10° slicks, I would scuff the shiny layer on the tire with sandpaper. I use 400 grit.
I have the 1st gen RX28 with the brass chassis. What parts do you suggest to stock up for this? What parts usually breaks or mostly needed for this car? Thanks!
I've stocked up on G1 parts when I bought 3 last year but my RX28 G1 with 2500KV motor has all original parts. I haven't had to replace anything yet. Although in my faster G1 cars, I've replaced some parts. If you are running the G1 with faster motor like 3500KV+, I would suggest to have extra:
-Get a couple of those spring perch o-rings.
-Get the Brass chassis for spare. Not needed if you run 2500KV only.
-Get side links, the G2's if that's compatible.
@@tjaymacRC how about ball cups?
@@popitn2nd I’m still using the original ones. I also have spare of the G1 ball cups but I’ve never had to use it for any of my 3 G1’s. But like I said, I have some so maybe just keep a spare. They’re cheap anyway.
do you find that GL esc is the best for sensorless mode?
I’ve only tried these 3 ESC’s:
HobbyWing Mini28
GL-SD-ESC-010T
GL-BT-ESC-030
And only the GL-SD-ESC-010T works flawlessly with sensorless motors. The GL-BT… also works but there’s a throttle delay that not many notice, but I do.
@@tjaymacRC We're trying the Team Powers esc now, its 30 amp, its the same as PN. Not sure if you travel internationally to race but since Lipo Stock is blinky , esc is critical and they outlawed the old GL esc that people were using adding more static timing to it. cheaters gonna cheat! hopefully its a more level playing field.
No plans on competing anymore after last years PN Regionals. I just can't do 2+ days events anymore... Locally, we don't use ESC timing and our motor are spec motors: Rocket or NHX 2500KV (NHX is slower than Rocket) sensorless so most of the local drivers are running V1.2 or 010T. That said, the GL V1.2 and the GL ...010T to me looks the same, speed-wise. I don't see them having the advantage in speed anywhere on the track.
Good videos as always. I did recently change from an se chassis to the regular g2. My car got insanely light (to me)(167 w/battery, from 178). It took a while to get used to the handling as it felt so flighty. But once i slowed the controls down it felt good. Did my fastest lap with it. I can relate to the aggressive turning feel that you were referring to. And i feel the same way... it wants to be pushed. Otherwise, it will not feel good. Anyways, awesome video!
@@tjaymacRC ahh gotcha, its cool that you have a reliable track you can go to weekly with good competition. I live in Florida and pretty much have to travel to race competitively. trying to get a local scene with the decent racing every week here. Been a mission.
I spy QteQ ball diff parts on the RX Gen 1 😊
QteQ diff hardware, Reflex Racing diff plates, Kyosho Ti shaft, Kyosho o-ring, PN ceramic diff balls and PN Spur. All that for my diff. lol
A comparison between RX28 G2 and RX28SE G2 should be better, because both steel been sold.
Yeah, others can do that comparison. I sold all my RX28 G2’s.
Why did you sell? If u don’t mind me asking I just got a rx28 world edition se
Класссс❤❤❤❤❤❤