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@@JuanZepedaRC Yes, this is the method I use and the glue I use. I have tried other brand glue and this is the only brand that keeps my tires glued on my wheels and I use PN Delrin wheels.

Appreciate that, thank you! I personally like the MR04 EVO with AAA NiMH batteries running the stock Kyosho Brushless motors (Green/Blue/Red). I like it because it has a very nice feel to it. The steering resolution is smoother, more linear feel and it has more cornering traction (mechanically) and you don't need to do a lot of upgrade. I only needed disk damper and springs. Everything else is stock even the motor mount is plastic. This car just feels smoother in the throttle and steering. As far as speed goes, both to me feels the same. Now if you plan to run Kyosho Cup, MR04 EVO would be the car to get. If you don't plan to run/race in Kyosho Cup or Kyosho rules and want to race in the PN Rules, I would suggest to get the MOR03 EVO only because you can run the PN motors (sensorless) or other brand sensorless motors. You can even convert to Lipo batteries if you like to race the car in the PNWC, GTLM 2500KV class. So it all depends on what you plan to do. If you just want to drive around or run in Kyosho Cup, MR04 EVO2. If you want to race in PN rules or in 2500KV, MR03 EVO. If you search my page for videos, you will find some MR04 and MR03 videos. Here's one, a MR03 EVO: ua-cam.com/video/i2S2SyB564o/v-deo.htmlsi=L6JozRWt-m6aDl-J

@@tjaymacRC your top guy thank you for responding!! I think I will go for the mr04 evo then seen as less upgrades need to be made do you have an instagram by any chance? And also I have seen a few people speak on how smooth the cornering tractions is and that a big thing for me and seen as it is a later model did you find any issue or faults and or anything that needed replacing when driving the MR04?

@@Fynn14_06 Thank you! No IG for Mini-Z, just this Channel. I did two modifications to my MR04 which are free modifications and those are to sand down the upper arm by .5mm or the upper arm will rub in the front wheel hubs. Second mod was to add tire tape under the front springs. This way the springs will stay in place. No other mod and these mods I mentioned in one of my MR04 videos. I also have the parts list in the description in one of those videos.

Hard to say, I like them both and each have different feel to them. You'll have to see what's being used at your local track to make sure that there's parts support from the shop and the tech advise from the drivers.

@@Docmcfly233 Kyosho ball diff.

@@mugenx12 I haven’t really played around with the toe out so my default is always set to 3° toe out. Its what I’m used to. Two days ago though I ran 1° toe out with Mod motor for the first time on the MRX and although it felt a little “darty”, overall it wasn’t twitchy and the car was tracking straight. I still need to test it in slower speed (2500KV) and see how that 1° toe out would feel.

@mugenx12 - I tried the 1* toe out yesterday with 2500KV motor and I didn't like how the frontend felt. The steering felt a little too sensitive for me in the back straight. I think if the track layout has narrow two-tiles short straightaway, I would probably struggle trying to swing out close to the wall to make the apex. I went back to 3* and its a lot better for my driving. Its just personal preference. Just replying back to give you an update on that.

Kool thans for the feed back

@@wheruatfoo247 thank you! No drag brake set in the ESC or radio.

I would like to know the fine tuning, I have the same set up.

The DWS, you just turn the spring collar to raise or lower ride height.

@@tjaymacRC Yes True but the old one it,s shims

@@thorsrc4170, I adjusted mine with shim under the springs.

Yes it fits but I prefer the PN F1 wheels in 19mm's. Thanks.

Sorry, I don't have the parts list. This isn't my car, I just tuned it, but you can buy the kit here: www.kenonhobby.com/Atomic-BZ5-Belt-Drive-4WD-Chassis-Kit-No-electronics_p_50799.html

I appreciate you taking your time to comment and letting me know. Thanks! I'm glad that the videos are helpful. Cheers!

Thanks for sharing. Is that with 3500KV motor? I will have to try the aluminum chassis but not anytime soon. The feel of the car's weight with the brass chassis is really nice. Something different from what I'm used to.

@tjaymacRC I'm using 2500. It's s smaller track where I am so that's what's popular

@@tonythehitman1 Ok, yeah that makes sense.

@@tjaymacRC also forgot to add. Using small side wings

If you take a screen shot of my car you will see that there are two black foams in the battery tray positioned close to the motor side. These foams are 5mm thick to push the weight of the battery towards the front. ;) Somehow with the kit cars, whenever I put weight in the front, it makes the car push. But with the MR03 (Kysoho cars), when I add weight in the front, I get more steering. Maybe it has something to do with the ride height (Kyosho is higher). Not sure, but I won't be able to test this anymore since I've moved on to the dual arm (DWS) frontend already. Thanks for the feedback John!

I should put an update on here that I tried adding weight on the Reflex Racing bumper. I added 1.5g and it did gave me more initial and mid corner steering. This was on the DWS frontend, red BZ5 springs, aluminum BZ5 shocks with GL5500 motor.

The rear of this car is planted from its design. Second the weight in the rear is more than other cars because this car has chassis plate that runs all the way to the rear + motor pod. Third is this Single Arm frontend. The suspension is stiff unlike the dual arm (DWS) which I currently have. That setup has the steering I was looking for. I’ll have the videos about that in a couple of days.

First time hearing any issues about the JST. I personally never had any issues and have not seen anyone locally that had any issues with the JST connector.

@@tjaymacRC i didn't experience those either since i bought a used car fitted with MR30s but that was the argument used by the people at my local track to justify the reflex/gl connectors.

ok.

Hi, I haven't replace any pressure plates. Two of my ball diffs have plates from over 10 years ago and I still use them. For shaft, I only use Kyosho Steel or Titanium. For hardware, I can use both Kyosho or Reflex Racing: hubs and plates. For Spur, I only use PN Racing. For diff balls, I am using Carbide lately to get traction. I put down 45,000k+ laps in 1.5 years. I had only replaced 1 set of ceramic bearings because they looked dull (not shiny). I haven't replaced any Carbide. I also don't inspect it, I just replace when I feel they're old. I haven't seen any carbide of ceramic balls get flat spots. They stay consistent from my experience. I don't have a guide but I did updated the description above where I linked all the parts that I use. Please note that you will need to modify the Kyosho ball diff to fit the PN Spur. I don't have a video or guide for that mod. Why Kyosho steel/ti shaft - Because they're reliable. It always stay true and you can play around with the weight (adding or removing) in the rear.

@@tjaymacRC amazing answer thanks so much =)

www.lemofoxminiz.com/

Redwood City

Thanks. I was already running the softest springs in the video. Anyway, I have the car dialed in now with the DWS, I am now getting the steering I need. This test (video) was done 3 weeks ago. Currently, I just finished making the DWS and Vertical spring conversion video.

Understeering overall. By that I mean the corner entry, mid and exit corner I have to back off the throttle more than I normally would. To get into the low 6.8's with this car on this video, I had to back off the throttle a lot to make tight lines. This was with the stock frontend (SA) which is the one in the video. My current setup has DWS (dual arms) frontend and rear vertical springs. This setup is doing 6.71 with multiple 6.7's. Its only .10 seconds behind the Mod's fast lap. It's fast! But driving the car to 6.7's requires a lot of concentration and a lot of tires! To get the car to Mid 6.8's, the car feels like the SA car doing 6.9's. Easy to drive. Appreciate that John, thanks!

The stock frontend (SA) like the one in this video, no. No needed work for both 2500 and 3500. Just change front tires like the RX28. Now with the DWS frontend that I currently have (not the one in the video), yes. But to be fair, I have 2 years and 7 RX28's. I only have 1 month with this MRX.

Not at all. Thanks!

@@BombaclaetWOW Thanks! What do you mean by make it go straight? They don’t track straight? Mine does.

Just raced mine this weekend and man.. what a difference the DWS has made. I also run my cars soft, and it helps bite the track so much. I ran mine without loctite to see what loosens up and found that those top ball joints are the main points that loosen over time. Overall, it was a solid upgrade. I would suggest anyone with tuning in mind for their MRX invest in the DWS.

@@tjaymacRC yeah google suggested to rebind mine

@@rgarage02 There’s no need to use RX28 knuckles. You now have the option to run direct steering. This setup by itself allows you to run the steering turnbuckles on top of the knuckles. This eliminates the active toe-in. Yes, great improvement for sure especially rear roll center. Less dipping in the rear with the conversion kit.

This is normal and most will not even notice it especially when your car is not direct steering. I only notice it because the cars that I have are direct steering (no servo arm).

Hi There! I haven't played around with the variety of optional parts for this car. I actually don't plan on doing a lot of that or this car will turn into a money pit. I did however bought other hop ups that I will eventually try and those are the: DWS frontend (Double A-Arm) Vertical rear springs conversion The aluminum chassis, Idk yet. I have a video this month that talks a little about the aluminum plate on why I'm hesitant to get it. Side wings? Nope. Idk why I need to add weight on the outside yet. When I get to the point that I need to get that, I'll try it but right now, the car is really good even with the SA frontend. The links will be in stock next week on Tuesday which is when I'll have a new video about this car with 3500 motor and lexan body. Appreciate that, thank you!!

Thank you so much for the quick reply! I’ll hold off on ordering anything then until they’re back in stock. Looking forward to the next video my friend

Appreciate that, thank you! I also post photos for specs, weights, setups and such in the community page in case you missed them. I think only subscribers can see those but here you go. www.youtube.com/@tjaymacRC/community

@@popitn2nd I don’t think so. Only very few are running this chassis and in California (South and North ), only a handful. I know I’m the only one with MRX here in Bay Area, California track.

@@rickzfpv3118 Hi Rick, Thank you! In our local track for Expert drivers, the Rocket 2500KV, Blinky ESC, 13/53 gearing is the Spec. It all depends on what is legal to your local track. So everyone in Expert class are running the exact same unopened motor. Novice and Sportsman can run whatever 2500KV motor they want as long as they’re blinky and 13/53. FYI. The Rocket 2500 motor is slower by .20 seconds vs PN 2500 v3 or v4 in Blinky mode. It is not a fast motor.

I wouldn't look to add more hop up on this car because the hop up for this model car is unlimited. Its going to feel like a money pit... I say figure out the setup with what you have. You should be able to fix that without buying that sway bar. I don't think the sway bar will eliminate that oversteer. You need to fix that oversteering first which I think is coming from your front tires. I would suggest to glue the sidewall of that existing tires you have. Or run low profile tires that are glued to the rims with flange type wheels. If that doesn't work, glue the sidewalls. Then set the camber to -1* and lower dual rate. Get the car running to where it understeers first. Find that tire that will understeer. Then slowly tune the suspension to get the steering you want. If you can't get the steering, this is when you want to change your front tires.

@@tjaymacRC how did you use the f1 wheels being they are for 2wd?

@@aaronbembry711 AWD wheels… www.kenonhobby.com/AWD-Wheels_c_387.html

Thanks for watching, Rick! Some drivers that won or came in top 3 in any PNWC are not allowed to run any AAA class in PN Rules and I am one of them. Because of this, I don't run or test any PN AAA classes. I do play with Kyosho brushless motors with AAA. Sorry, I won't be able to help you out on this but there is this wiring pinout that you can check out on FB from one of the mini-z group page: facebook.com/groups/722063711267613/permalink/2741978422609455/ Hopefully this link will help you out!

@@BombaclaetWOW Hi, I can send it to you via Messenger. You can find me in one of the Mini Z FB Groups.

Thanks for sharing.

Hi Justin, I can't say about their reliability yet but I did started tracking my laps for 2 of my sets and I will say that they still spin smooth like they did when they were new. I have only cleaned then with 70% isopropyl alcohol or motor cleaner. I also do not lube these because I want to see how long it'll last. Set 1: 3k laps (2500 motor) Set 2: 2k laps (2500 and 3500 motors) I don't plan on using in my Mod however. I actually don't use Hybrid or Full ceramic bearings in my Mod unless its a big event race, never in a club or small trophy club races.

@@tjaymacRC it will be interesting to hear about there longevity.

@@justinjames4969, I’ll a video about it in a couple of months. 👍

Yessir! I put 500+ laps per visit in 1 car. When I come back the following week, I want my car/s in tip top shape.

@@rickzfpv3118, Hey Rick, the MR03 non-sensored motor will not work with the MR04 board unfortunately. Only Kyosho sensored (MR04) motors will work with MR04 with sensor wires installed.

Thank you, Daniel. Yes I use Marka 15 Radials that are worn out (slicks). I started with used (semi-slicks) Marka 15 Radials because I knew the car (MRX) had a pretty planted rear end while I was putting the car together and I was right. I ran the same tires during this 2500KV with hard body test for 880 laps and I used the same tires to run in 3500KV with Lexan body and did 235 laps on it before I started to feel the rear loosing traction on corner exit, on-power. The part number is: MZR-V1RR15. www.microrcsyndicate.com/product/marka-v1-mini-z-rcp-rubber-rear-radial-tire-15-degree-medium-1-pair-/905?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=true

@@tjaymacRC Thank you TJ, much appreciated. I've been using Marka 15's slicks wonder if there is much of a difference between them. I will give it a try!

@@danielhorta8465 You're welcome and no. I don't use the Marka Slicks at all. They don't have any grip. The Radials are way, way better in forward traction and corner grip. 👍

I appreciate that, thank you. I have videos lined up for this month and two of those are initial reviews in the 2500KV & 3500KV classes and on both, that's exactly what I said, "easy to drive". Less concentration while driving this car is what I noticed.

Definitely. That day we did around 120 laps just chasing each other around. :)

@@tjaymacRC nice!

Thanks! Fun class, not too slow. About .50 secs slower than 3500.

@@tjaymacRC I will look at your setup sheet, is pinion size on there ? That is plenty fast 😀

@@CR3DT Yes, pinion and spur are in there and its 13/53.👍

@@CR3DT Thank you. I was using 13T Pinion and 53T Spur.