I've been out of the hobby for 15+ years, and when I was into it, I ran all nitro. Ive been trying to figure out the electric stuff as I'm swapping my rc10gt and HPI NMT over to electric. This video helped a ton, as have your other videos. Keep it up!
I got out of the hobby for another 10 years, then my sons wanted rc cars, that was about 8 years ago. Now I have a store in my basement and they have no interest. Oh boy
Just purchased one of the 4092 from your store on Amazon and was looking for this exact information. Glad it's the guy selling them that's giving the info.
I totally agree that heat is the No.1 enemy of your components, and that means motor, wires, ESC, batteries, and even connectors can melt! Using a temp gun is a good idea because you get real numbers, but how hot is hot? Try using your fingers, then you'll know!
Votage for an electrical circuit is similar to pressure in a hydraulic system. The main limiting factor for voltage is the insulation capacity to contain that voltage. If a weakness is found, the voltage may cause a short circuit or possibly a path to ground. In the case of an RC motor there would be short circuit between two of the three phases which could cause an meltdown of the ESC.
Mr. Joule was well aware of the significant issue at hand. I xI x R = ...HOT :-)) As the copper ceased to be a viable option and melted away, we began to grasp the concept of harnessing and utilizing light. This was the advent of "electricity." ...more or less until now. If I'm allowed ...I think not everything that applies to brushless can apply to brushed! as I believe you said For instance, if you apply 6 to 8S to a brushed engine designed for 2S, it won't even complete a rotation before melting. If it somehow doesn't melt, it will likely over-rotate and explode. Brushed engines has to be treated still with more affection :) than brushless
did a test on my carpetbuggy and trow on a big pinion and actually the temp on the motor got lower then it got with the normal gearing most use for that track. and on top of that it got as far as i think easyer to drive as it dont got as explosive on power out of corners and before jumps. so the lower ratio did calm the car down and dont seem to get drawbacks as raced motor temp.
First: thank you for the video, very well explained! One thing I’d like to mention is that there is quite a difference in results when checking temps with a heath gun or with a program box. I use both on a Hobbywing combo and the heath gun showed about 15°C less than the program box... So if you’re running your motor at it’s limits... Subbed!
Thanks for the video. I learned alot. I have a vintage team Losi buggy brushless and the car actually quit because I believe the esc shut it down. The motor was extremely hot. When it cooled down it ran again. That led me to you tube to search out and I found your video. I am still trying to find out a way to install a heat sink and fan on this vintage buggy.
The exact components of a specific motor will vary. The insulation of magnet wire is usually 600V and rated 221-428F. Silicone insulation is 600V-1000V and can take 482F (302-572). PVC 221F, Teflon 842F. Neodymium Iron Boron magnet grade max temps are N 176F, NM 212F, NH 248F, NSH 302F, NUH 356F, NEH 392F, NAH 428F. They are most likely grade N. Good magnet glue can withstand 500F. Some people use Loctite 480 (A type of CA/super glue) which is only 180F. The info I have found so far for bearing lube is 160F-180F. Silicone oil can withstand 400F or more, but I don't have any info for this type of use. Bottom line, voltage itself will not damage a brushless motor. If the heat exceeds 160F, the bearing lube can "drop out" and the magnets are approaching the point of damage. You can run motors at 200F for a short time accepting the fact that the lube can cook out and that the magnets will lose strength each time.
Another awesome bench vid John 👊!!!! The shop Beast UDR setup was a great example to share to illustrate heat as the #1 motor killer. I'm still picturing the Crazy high speed drifts you talked about at the lake awhile back 😜....Lol. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thank you Rich!! Been wanting to cover this topic for some time now and we are finally getting back to videos so wanted to knock this one out. We still need a running video of that UDR, with the nice weather coming back we'll be more inspired to get out and make some running videos :)
@@RCJuice definitely looking forward to seeing that scale monster in the dirt 😜. The 1730 4092 is such a workhorse. Running the 1480kv version Hobbystar and Hexfly Hex8 on 6s in my V3 Kraton and couldn't be happier. Just have to gear up for top end. Runs cool even with harder use. 🍻
Hi ! John ! This is Mr.Herman Woods .Here how are you today! I hope you and your family is doing well and safe ! Just wont to thank you once again ! You have taught me, a lot about RC MOTORS . ON HOW TO ! CHOOSE THE RIGHT MOTOR . I WAS RUNNING 4S DOING ABOUT 45-50 .NOW ! I AM ON 5S HITTING 55-58 . IT'S ABOUT VOLTAGE !!! AND HEAT , THEN SETUP ! NOW I KNOW .I WONTED TO ASK YOU SOMETHING. I HAVE BOUGHT THE HOBBY STAR 5S 5200 MAH 50C LIPO .I HAVE 2 OF THEM, THAT I ADD TO MY BIGGER BOAT.5FT FOR 12S ! BUT WHAT HAPPENED .WAS I FOR GOT ,TO PUT MY LOW VOLTAGE ALARM ON IT .AND TOKE THE BATTERYS DOWN ! PASS 3.0 .MORE LIKE AROUND 2.6 ! AND THE BATTERYS SWELL A LITTLE ONE MORE THEN THE OTHER . BUT JUST A LITTLE ! DO YOU THINK I CAN STILL USE THEN .!!! OUR NOT .I HAVE PUT THEM ON THE CHARGER .AND THEY CHARGE UP . RESISTANCE OF THE LIPO ARE AROUND 3-4.ON BOTH OF THE BATTERYS. .BUT I WAS GOING LIGHT WITH THEM.AT FIRST! BUT ! I THINK WHEN I WAS RUNNING ! I NOTICED POWER CUT OFF ! AT AROUND 3.90 CELL VOLT .WHEN I CHECK IT , BUT AT THAT TIME.I HAD FISHING LINE ON THE PROP ! AND I THOUGHT THAT WAS THE PROBLEM ! BUT I WILL TRY AGAIN. BOT THE BATTERYS STILL .HAVE ALOT OF POWER , I THINK IT IS TO FAST FOR THE ! PAWN THAT I RUN AT . IT GETS TO ONE END TO QUICKLY .BUT I LIKE IT ! SO WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE BATTERYS ! THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME .MR.H.WOODS
Fwiw... I have the Hoppystar 1730kv in my Arrma Kraton and it rips. It took me 3xs to tune it with the right pinion. It is dialed and was worth the wrenching. Take the time to gear you rig . Its a must!!! Great vid
@@rcjer6473 We do not have a shop Kraton here, I would recommend starting with the smaller pinion (we always do) and monitoring temps to see if you have the headroom to go bigger.
RCJer sorry for the delay. Im using a tekno 15t with a hoppywing fan. Sweet spot for me. Torque over speed for me. Nevertheless it’s crazy fast and cool temps
use Kryonaut thermal paste between heat sink and motor. Think PCs, no paste huge temp difference. I do not see info on it, but I do it because of time spent overclocking computers.
Great information. I learned this lesson the hard way. Wish I had seen your video earlier. I now keep a much closer eye on motor temps. Kudos as well on your information delivery. Clear, concise and accurate. Great job!
Say on a scale truck, if you drive it on the road at a constant walking speed, will the motor heat up constantly or will it reach a certain temp? I ask because I put a Holmes hobbies 3500kv motor with a cc copperhead 10 esc and in low gear on my trx4, the motor will go all the way up to 160f if I just keep running the motor at a constant pace.
The motor will reach operating temp and stay there. Of course there are a lot of variables, but if given a constant load then the temp will peak and stay there and not continue to climb.
Okay, would you say it’s normal for my motor to get that hot under those circumstances? My final gear ratio is already at 79.1:1 with no binding in the drivetrain.
Hi I have arrma limitless with big pinion gear ⚙️ more like u said pizza! That’s what I got on it ... so the problem is the esc over heats with in 40 seconds of drive.... let it cool off it runs for 20 seconds and over heats... the esc is xr8 HB. Also running on 6s 500mha 50c battery gives me only 4 minutes and it’s goes down low violates one 4 minutes. So what do you think I should do.... by the way same battery on typhon gives me like 40 minutes or full blast no mercy on typhon
Very nice video. If you want to understand motors exactly watch electroboom video. Basically as the motor spins it also generates its own voltage so when there is no load you need very little energy to keep it running, when you to slow it down by putting a load on it generates less voltage which means you have to put more energy in.
I have a rustler 4x4 vxl running on 3s w/ 17t pinion and 54t spur. Running oversized sledgehammer tires. I really like the gearing and tire set up but am overheating very quickly. Is there any options for me to maintain gearing and tire size but have cooler Temps? Would a motor swap help?
Do you think spinners are necessary for electric rc planes? I have a Turbo Timber Evo. and it looks like the ESC would get better air flow if the spinner was not installed.
I run in big open areas full throttle alot which is hard on esc/motors. I became a pro in telemetry. Had to especially having fe boats. Basically gear or prop to get to 170 degrees towards end of run and shut down at 180. Both esc and motor. Telemetry pays for itself especially batteries shutting down at 3.6v per cell. Thats generally the slight decrease in power anyway. My question is whats your opinion on where on an esc is the most accurate place to put sensor? I put them on the esc itself but am thinking of peeling + wire coating and monitoring wire itself temps. Another advantage to voltage telemetry is monitoring drawdown under load. Bad cells will drawdown further in overall voltage saving letting loose later. Also will help detect shorts by glitching voltage. Good video thanks.
Thank you for watching and for your input!! I do a lot of MX riding in the dunes (and of course the RC's always come with me) and absolutely, that's a different level of load on a power system and you are smart to watch those temps constantly via telemetry. We usually will place a temp pickup for an ESC as close as possible to the middle and bottom of the heatsink to be closest to the "core" of the heat. Placing it in the wire is actually an interesting proposition, my gut tells me it's best to be as close as possible to where the heat is coming from but the wire does hold a good amount of heat as well. The most important part is going to be getting familiar with what the temps need to be at for which ever location you pick if they do vary. Some testing would be in order here...
Hey bud so I have slash xl5 and just upgraded esc and motor brushless cheepy kit from banggood esc up to 3s I purchased a 3s and as soon as I installed after two hard pulles esc literally caught fire melted
Hi, nice video. One question: when do you decide to gear down and when to use a coolingfan? Or do you try to gear in such way that you don’t need a fan? When my motor becomes 130dg is 8% drop of gearratio enough? (That’s 13 teeth pinion to 12).
Our opinion on cooling fans is that they will help a property setup system run cooler, they should not be used to try to bring a setup that otherwise overheats into operating temps. 13t to 12t will give you a noticeable result, but if your motor is 130F already then you do not need to gear any lower, 130F is plenty cool for a motor to run at.
Great video the only thing I think I would touch on that you didn't is track conditions dry loose track conditions going to be less load on your motor less heat and sticky damp wet track condition is going to get well not soaking but tacky a lot more traction going to build up a lot more heat
I put bigger tires, bigger gearing and a new motor mount on my xmaxx 8s a couple of days ago. I didn't notice that my motor fans were not working. I did have a temperatura gun with me, but was so excited to just run. My motor overheated and locked up on me for not checking. Bad idea.
I just bought a surpass hobby rock motor 7800kv it doesn’t say what the top rpm of the motor is. How do I know that? Once I know that without the gearing is it ok to run it with gearing added to the equation as long as it’s below that number?
Cool video! With a new setup, I use a Wattmeter to see if all is within basic specs. After that, I do the real testing whereby temperature is monitored often.
Outstanding! I just finished a build of an XTBe Xray 22 with a hobbywing 4274 motor & HW pro esc. Running 4S 6500, 120C with a 17 tooth pinion gear. I have that Bluetooth thing that tells the temp and data log plugged in. I ran it for a short time today and checked it. Motor temp was 110F @ just under 37k rpm. I didn’t run hard, but will tomorrow. I noticed the engine mount was a little loose, which was my fault- I never locktited it and torqued the bolts down. No issue because I was careful. I’m allowing 24 hours for the locktite to set, then letting it rip. I loved and appreciated your video, subscribed and would appreciate any advice. Pete
If motor gets hot what the parts get damaged the sator or winding. My got hot other day and u could smell it and some smoke after it cooled down it seems to run ok. Any input u can let me know
The stator windings are what will be most damaged by the heat. If it is working OK for now it's probably fine but the power and life may be reduced from having been overheated.
i just change motors and esc to my drone mjx bugs 5w but i cannot calibrate them. if i turn it on and push up the remote gets full throtle and dont came down the esc are blhelli.s ms15a and the motors dys be1806 2300kv
It's hard to say without some more info and seeing the setup, but calibration issues are usually related to 1 of a few things. Number 1 is to make sure that you throttle TRIM setting is all the way DOWN so the ESC is not receiving any throttle channel input at idle. Number 2 is to ensure that the throttle channel TRAVEL (sometimes listed as EPA) is set to the MAXIMUM setting in both throttle and brake directions. Depending on radio this can be 100%, 120%, 150% etc. Number 3 is that some radios need to have the throttle channel set to REVERSE for them to work with many ESC's, this is usually always true on Futaba and FlySky radios but is also the case with many of the other brands floating around out there.
i have a arrma kraton 6s with the blx 185 system. i recently hook up , the powerhobby /yeah racing twin turbo fan heatsink . i use a y-harness and hook it up to a spektrum s2100 receiver . i ran it on a hot day for a half hour , and check the heat. i notice one of the turbo fans would stop and start, in rhythm with the esc fan that slowed down and speed up. also there was a weird noise coming from one of the fans. Do you think the blx 185 esc can handle the power drain from two 30mm fans?
Thanks for taking the time to break down this info for people. Very helpful info👍 Also, nice to see the person whom I been ordering some of my RC parts from lol. You have an amazing selection & at pretty fair $. I came across this video in search of trying to see if others were having motor heating issues with their Arrma Typhon 6S RC car. Because I'm running stock gears (14T pinion /50T spur) on 6S & that motor heats up pretty quickly while bashing, like in 5 minutes. The stock internal gearing ratio is 3.57:1 & the final drive ratio is 11.79:1 with 117mm tires. So I don't think I can really gear down much while already running a 14T pinion, maybe 12T. While I can run the car on 4S & probably drop the temp, it kinda defeats the purpose of having a 6S basher lol. So I'm wondering if I go with a lower Kv motor, like a 1700kv, will it run cooler on 6S since I'm dropping the motor RPM (from 45.5k to 37.7k) & increasing torque? 🤔 Anyhow, awesome video, thanks! 👍
"if I go with a lower Kv motor, like a 1700kv, will it run cooler on 6S since I'm dropping the motor RPM" - the short answer is Yes. The long answer is, it'll run cooler only if you don't immediately throw an oversize pinion gear on it :)
I know you probably don't have any toy grade vehicles, but I'm going to ask anyway. I have a couple of 1/12 scale trucks that have the combination Receiver/ESC. After about five minutes of running they both quit. After setting for a few minutes, they run again, and the longer I let them set, the longer they run. I'm guessing there's a temp safety cutoff, either in the ESC or the motor, or both. Do ESC's have Temp cutoffs, Do motors have Temp cutoffs. Also I see sensored and Sensorless motors. Do the sensors cut the motor off if it overheats? Update: I finally decided it was time to make these toys run. I bought servos, and ESC's and motors, and set them up on my Flysky transmitter. But . . . even more interested if safety cutoffs are built into motors and/or ESC's. If my cheapie Virhuck truck was quitting and then running again after setting a few minutes, I'd think more expensive equipment has built in protection too.
How can I have the most long range that is possible for my 124019.. I want to upgrade brushless with a new Esc so I need a new receiver and radio.. Which is the best?? Which has the best range? Should I buy a 2.4ghz boost like the immerson Ghost? Or are there any better? I definitely want to have a range more than 1 km.. 3 or more would be really good..
I apologize but long-range radio setups are not our specialty and we are not versed enough in these so we cannot make any recommendations. We assume this is for an FPV setup? For standard car applications, 2.4GHz gives plenty of range.
I'm wondering if running too hot for a long time can deteriorate the motor in the long run (less powerfull over time). Could you check that on a motor by spinning the rotor and feeling the steps of the magnets? or it has nothing to do with that?
great informative video man thank you. i right away bought the exact temp gauge, so compact! i'll be using it for motorcycle riding as well, interesting to learn how the temperatures of asphalt and tires relate, just to get a feel for it. awesome, thanks again
My question is what causes ESC overheating? I tend to gear up and drop to a lower voltage... is that stupid or does that make sense? Because I've had some esc overhearing on my k8 that I run on 39t spur and 6s... not always, but enough to shake confidence...thanks anyone!
Excessive current draw through the ESC will overheat it the same as the motor, motors just tend to build heat faster. You are correct to gear up/drop voltage, a higher voltage system with lower gearing is more efficient, but for temperature-control purposes, you are doing the right thing.
@@RCJuice Thank you so much!!! I thought that was right... but of course, if the voltage drops too low, then current increases... so I wasn't sure... when we ran 6s on a Typhon with bigger wheels, the esc went into thermal shutdown in just a few minutes of driveway testing... we didn't understand... so we tried to learn why and we concluded it was because we could barely pull the throttle and the esc had to "block" the current which would heat up the resistors? Does that make sense? We reeeeally appreciate the understanding 🙏
Hi, i run with 3s on combo Orion vortex 4100 KV and 30/81 geraring.But motor is too hot, and I stop it for few minute, for well done works two cooling fan on it.This set up its' a damage risk?
4100KV on 3S is a very hot setup, you really need to gear it very low to keep temps in check but if you are going to stick to 3S we really recommend closer to 3000KV.
Very helpful video, thank you. I can't wait to install my new RCJuice Hobbystar 4092 1480kv on my Kraton, when it arrives. I'm glad to hear it will handle 8s(conservatively of course). What is the best way to support such a long can, I've got a Hot Racing motor mount, but wonder if it will cope?
Random solution, but we often use some pieces of hard rubber (if you can find gym-floor type rubber it's great) and cut a piece that fits snug between the end of the motor and the chassis. A bit of epoxy helps keep it in place, we do this a lot and it seems to help.
@@RCJuice that's a great idea, thank you. I'm expecting that it's going to cop a beating, so I just want to try to protect it the best I can. Keep up the great service guys, it really does make a big difference and you stand out when you help us out.
@@jonowillmer Our pleasure to help, it's a simple trick but it definitely does the trick. We truly appreciate your kind words and appreciate your business!
It can, but indirectly. What usually happens is that the motor gets so hot that there is some expansion, and the rotor starts to contact the inside of the motor and starts to tear it up.
Great information. I'm having trouble finding the answer to a question that might not get asked frequently. Can you damage an ESC or brushless motor from running too small of a C rating?
The short answer is no, if it was an extreme situation then that could be a contributing factor, but in 99% of scenarios a low c-rating in of itself is not going to damage an ESC or motor.
@@RCJuice Thanks a ton for the reply, it's greatly appreciated. I'm beefing up a little project car, Feiyue FY01. It came with damaged electronics so the company told me to keep it and sent a refund, very excited. I'm putting in a brushless motor from a FY06 and planning to replace the ESC with a Hobby Wing 10BL120. The motor is rated at 3200 kv. As far as the ESC goes, I was looking for a nice budget unit and honestly the HW looks like a great fit, for the space I have. I've also been searching battery option. Looking for a 2s with around 3000mah and ~40c discharge rate. The battery tray is pretty small at 87mm x 40mm. I've looked online and can only find some Chinese brands like the Limskey 3500mah , little hesitant but it looks like a pretty good size fit also. Again thanks so much for your time and if you have any insight I'd really appreciate it.
@@1Axis Our pleasure to help, and you sure can't be mad at a free car! 2S is a good setup for a 3200KV motor although you are correct, that is a bit of an odd-sized battery tray so your options are going to be limited. Please feel free to e-mail us at support@rcjuice.com with any more questions you may have, we are happy to help!
Hey bro I decided to buy an 18 tooth and a 19 tooth pinion for my kraton with my hobbystar 1730 in the hex 8 ESC does that seem like an all-right set up
Hi John hey I'm coming over to buy that temp gun there you have and maybe some other stuff thank you so much and it was real good to see you in person . The 6s batteries are awesome batteries the 4800 hard case hopefully I can get some 4S from U2 it was awesome meeting you and I will tell about your company to my friends and to my UA-cam channel on the products you have😉🙋♂️💪💪👊👊🤙🤙👍👍✌
Could you tell me why a Hobbystar 4585, 1800kv motor would run hot on a 15t pinion / 46 spur on 6s?…..I got a temp of about 230° after 5 minutes of operation.
It's not really possible to give an appropriate answer without more information. There are too many factors that have been left out. At minimum, we need to know what ESC is being used and what make and model vehicle.
3s Arrma Vorteks: I am looking for the touch the motor and its room temp sort of thing, is that possible? I will buy new motor or whatever, I made custom cooling for my current setup to get it where I want (ripped old heatsink off of chipsets and put a bigger one and bigger fan). 140 degrees on ESC. But motor gets warmer, and it's on stock gearing. And I am going through 2 full 5500 11.4v lipos non stop so it's pretty good. I just want it to be icey cool :D Any Ideas on a motor that might deal with the load better and keep same ESC ?
The stock motor is 3200KV, this is acceptable for 3S as long as you monitor temps, but the only way you are going to noticeably reduce the motor temperature is to decrease gearing, or lower the motor KV. As long as the motor is not overheating (over 170F) then you are OK as-is.
The best way it to check actual draw with an inline current meter like these: www.rcjuice.com/toolkitrc-wm150-150a-50v-watt-meter-power-analyzer-current-tester-pwm-output.html
Nice comprehensive story! 👍My hobbywing max 8 is at 60 degrees celsius at 4S. Think i have to gear it down then? It is pretty quick now, and dont want to lose much top speed 🤔
60C (140F) is still plenty safe, you generally want the motor to stay under 170F, so you still have some room left in it. Just watch the temps closely if you gear up since you are getting there, but if you are not getting above 60C then you do still have some headroom.
I have a 3650 3300kv in a 4wd MT 1/10 but small 1/10. Its the Helion Avenge/Rival Mt10. If i go up to a 3660 or 3665 will this help lower my temps? I think maybe the trucks are undergeared. 12/54 gearing but im newer to the hobby only had the truck a yr or so but ive never been able to run 3s long before temps are near danger zone. Thank u for any advice.
Hi nice vid...just asking will this setup ok to use? Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 Waterproof Brushed 80A ESC + D1RC 550kv 29T brushed motor with built-in fan...
In general that sounds like a good combo, but it depends on what vehicle it's going in and the overall setup. Monitor those temps, as long as it's in a suitable vehicle and setup correctly then that will be a solid combo.
@@RCJuice yeah I haven't ordered yet I'm still searching more infos. Planning to get scx10-2 kit or rtr where can I start building for a newbie like me...still lot to consider:) thanks bro..I'll inform you when I decided...
@@rcnoypi8758 Of course, we are always happy to help so please don't hesitate to shoot us an e-mail at support@rcjuice.com with any questions you have. We love getting new guys set up with info on the hobby! We have a few good reads in our "RCJuice University" if you are interested: www.rcjuice.com/rcu
Hey Harlon, we do not have an ETA yet but it should be soon. Shipments from China are still a complete disaster and shipments are all incredibly late due to the situation. We apologize for the lag and thank you for your patience.
If you are referring to the maximum rated RPM of a motor, it is going to be in the specs from the manufacturer. As a general rule most motors should be limited to 50,000RPM.
☠️BLACK BARON☠️ It's the motor that can heat up very well and make the inside cabin get so hot hat even the temp measurement of the ESC gets a warning. Especially when running motors in very hot summer conditions.
Not long ago i bought a slash wih the vxl 3s. The seller sold me a 2 s battery. My esc was making a lot of heat and fried. So if i understand well, i should only run 3 cell battery, right? Verry helpfull video. Thanks a lot. Like and sub.
The ESC is 3S capable, but it will work fine with a 2S battery and would definitely not be damaged by simply running a 2S battery vs a 3S. This sounds like you have something else going on, we'd need to know a bit more about the overall setup and exactly what it was happened to the ESC. If it happened right away it is possible the ESC was previously damaged, sometimes when you overheat a system it will work OK when it cools off but will have some running issues and will still eventually completely fail. Please shoot us an e-mail if you'd like some more detailed help with this: www.rcjuice.com/contacts/ Thank you for watching, and for the like and sub!
@@RCJuice thank you. Im french canadian annd ill watch over and over your video to make sure i understand well. Ill contact you by email for sure later with more detail and a video. Thankd again.
There are a lot of options, depending on what you are looking to do with it. Please shoot us an e-mail and we'd be happy to give you some recommendations based on your scenario: support@rcjuice.com
I'm always getting into debates, shall I say lol, about higher amp ESC's. Lots people are convinced the ESC pushes power into to motor, when it's simply not true
We would say the majority of people believe this to be the case, it is true that different ESC's can "provide" different peak numbers, it is indeed the motor that "pulls" current through an ESC. This is the reason most hobbyists believe that if an ESC fails it is the fault of the ESC, we need to look at the entire system and realize the motor is the end of the line, but it is responsible for pulling power FROM the battery, THROUGH the ESC and finally through the motor itself and that motors keep pulling power until they melt down. Whatever else is in line to the mtoor is subject to the same.
@@RCJuice Yeah that's true. It's all about the number crunching from the lipo to ESC and finally the motor. All need to be capable of delivering the required results, or something's gotta give
I know this video is 5 yrs old but thank you, you explained everything very well
Quick recap of the 17 minutes:
- Don't exceed 170°F
- Manage your gearing
I've been out of the hobby for 15+ years, and when I was into it, I ran all nitro. Ive been trying to figure out the electric stuff as I'm swapping my rc10gt and HPI NMT over to electric. This video helped a ton, as have your other videos. Keep it up!
I got out of the hobby for another 10 years, then my sons wanted rc cars, that was about 8 years ago. Now I have a store in my basement and they have no interest. Oh boy
Just purchased one of the 4092 from your store on Amazon and was looking for this exact information. Glad it's the guy selling them that's giving the info.
Good info, THANKS for making this Video.... we appreciate it!
Super informative, and answered all my questions! Thanks for making this video!
Thank you for watching!
This is the best explanation I’ve heard on this topic. You made it so easy to understand. 🙏
Thank you for watching!
Finally an understable explenation. Thank you!
Thank for you creating this video!
Our pleasure, thank you for watching!
I totally agree that heat is the No.1 enemy of your components, and that means motor, wires, ESC, batteries, and even connectors can melt! Using a temp gun is a good idea because you get real numbers, but how hot is hot? Try using your fingers, then you'll know!
You always have great content and explanations!
Thank you!
Votage for an electrical circuit is similar to pressure in a hydraulic system. The main limiting factor for voltage is the insulation capacity to contain that voltage. If a weakness is found, the voltage may cause a short circuit or possibly a path to ground. In the case of an RC motor there would be short circuit between two of the three phases which could cause an meltdown of the ESC.
Mr. Joule was well aware of the significant issue at hand. I xI x R = ...HOT :-))
As the copper ceased to be a viable option and melted away, we began to grasp the concept of harnessing and utilizing light. This was the advent of "electricity." ...more or less until now.
If I'm allowed ...I think not everything that applies to brushless can apply to brushed! as I believe you said
For instance, if you apply 6 to 8S to a brushed engine designed for 2S, it won't even complete a rotation before melting. If it somehow doesn't melt, it will likely over-rotate and explode.
Brushed engines has to be treated still with more affection :) than brushless
Gearing:
Small pinion=really easy to pedal bicycle
Bigger pinion= really hard to pedal and over loading.
did a test on my carpetbuggy and trow on a big pinion and actually the temp on the motor got lower then it got with the normal gearing most use for that track.
and on top of that it got as far as i think easyer to drive as it dont got as explosive on power out of corners and before jumps.
so the lower ratio did calm the car down and dont seem to get drawbacks as raced motor temp.
First: thank you for the video, very well explained! One thing I’d like to mention is that there is quite a difference in results when checking temps with a heath gun or with a program box. I use both on a Hobbywing combo and the heath gun showed about 15°C less than the program box... So if you’re running your motor at it’s limits... Subbed!
That is correct, we have seen quite a bit of a difference in temps and we personally like to use a known-good temp gun.
Thanks for the video. I learned alot. I have a vintage team Losi buggy brushless and the car actually quit because I believe the esc shut it down. The motor was extremely hot. When it cooled down it ran again. That led me to you tube to search out and I found your video. I am still trying to find out a way to install a heat sink and fan on this vintage buggy.
The exact components of a specific motor will vary. The insulation of magnet wire is usually 600V and rated 221-428F. Silicone insulation is 600V-1000V and can take 482F (302-572). PVC 221F, Teflon 842F. Neodymium Iron Boron magnet grade max temps are N 176F, NM 212F, NH 248F, NSH 302F, NUH 356F, NEH 392F, NAH 428F. They are most likely grade N. Good magnet glue can withstand 500F. Some people use Loctite 480 (A type of CA/super glue) which is only 180F. The info I have found so far for bearing lube is 160F-180F. Silicone oil can withstand 400F or more, but I don't have any info for this type of use. Bottom line, voltage itself will not damage a brushless motor. If the heat exceeds 160F, the bearing lube can "drop out" and the magnets are approaching the point of damage. You can run motors at 200F for a short time accepting the fact that the lube can cook out and that the magnets will lose strength each time.
Great content! Information the average joe can understand.
New sub.
Thank you!
Great Video. Thanks for the good advice ! I'll be checking out all your videos ! Still on Nitro, about to test the waters on electric 1/8 GT .
Thank you for watching! A lot of love for nitro cars still :)
Another awesome bench vid John 👊!!!! The shop Beast UDR setup was a great example to share to illustrate heat as the #1 motor killer. I'm still picturing the Crazy high speed drifts you talked about at the lake awhile back 😜....Lol. 🍻😎💪👊👊
Thank you Rich!! Been wanting to cover this topic for some time now and we are finally getting back to videos so wanted to knock this one out. We still need a running video of that UDR, with the nice weather coming back we'll be more inspired to get out and make some running videos :)
@@RCJuice definitely looking forward to seeing that scale monster in the dirt 😜. The 1730 4092 is such a workhorse. Running the 1480kv version Hobbystar and Hexfly Hex8 on 6s in my V3 Kraton and couldn't be happier. Just have to gear up for top end. Runs cool even with harder use. 🍻
one of the most intense real world understanding of motors i have seen
thank you
Thank you for watching!
Hi ! John ! This is Mr.Herman Woods .Here how are you today! I hope you and your family is doing well and safe ! Just wont to thank you once again ! You have taught me, a lot about RC MOTORS . ON HOW TO ! CHOOSE THE RIGHT MOTOR . I WAS RUNNING 4S DOING ABOUT 45-50 .NOW ! I AM ON 5S HITTING 55-58 . IT'S ABOUT VOLTAGE !!! AND HEAT , THEN SETUP ! NOW I KNOW .I WONTED TO ASK YOU SOMETHING. I HAVE BOUGHT THE HOBBY STAR 5S 5200 MAH 50C LIPO .I HAVE 2 OF THEM, THAT I ADD TO MY BIGGER BOAT.5FT FOR 12S ! BUT WHAT HAPPENED .WAS I FOR GOT ,TO PUT MY LOW VOLTAGE ALARM ON IT .AND TOKE THE BATTERYS DOWN ! PASS 3.0 .MORE LIKE AROUND 2.6 ! AND THE BATTERYS SWELL A LITTLE ONE MORE THEN THE OTHER . BUT JUST A LITTLE ! DO YOU THINK I CAN STILL USE THEN .!!! OUR NOT .I HAVE PUT THEM ON THE CHARGER .AND THEY CHARGE UP . RESISTANCE OF THE LIPO ARE AROUND 3-4.ON BOTH OF THE BATTERYS. .BUT I WAS GOING LIGHT WITH THEM.AT FIRST! BUT ! I THINK WHEN I WAS RUNNING ! I NOTICED POWER CUT OFF ! AT AROUND 3.90 CELL VOLT .WHEN I CHECK IT , BUT AT THAT TIME.I HAD FISHING LINE ON THE PROP ! AND I THOUGHT THAT WAS THE PROBLEM ! BUT I WILL TRY AGAIN. BOT THE BATTERYS STILL .HAVE ALOT OF POWER , I THINK IT IS TO FAST FOR THE ! PAWN THAT I RUN AT . IT GETS TO ONE END TO QUICKLY .BUT I LIKE IT ! SO WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE BATTERYS ! THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME .MR.H.WOODS
Fwiw...
I have the Hoppystar 1730kv in my Arrma Kraton and it rips. It took me 3xs to tune it with the right pinion. It is dialed and was worth the wrenching. Take the time to gear you rig . Its a must!!! Great vid
Always worth putting in the time from the start!
johnny rocket..i have the hobbystar 1730 in my kraton v4 and im using the 19tooth but I also bought an18tooth..what do you use
@@rcjer6473 We do not have a shop Kraton here, I would recommend starting with the smaller pinion (we always do) and monitoring temps to see if you have the headroom to go bigger.
RCJer sorry for the delay. Im using a tekno 15t with a hoppywing fan. Sweet spot for me. Torque over speed for me. Nevertheless it’s crazy fast and cool temps
Johnny Rockit What Esc you guys running in your armas with the 1730kv?
Awesome my friend !! Thanks
use Kryonaut thermal paste between heat sink and motor. Think PCs, no paste huge temp difference. I do not see info on it, but I do it because of time spent overclocking computers.
Thank u for the advice same thing happened to my car today with motor
Great information. I learned this lesson the hard way. Wish I had seen your video earlier. I now keep a much closer eye on motor temps. Kudos as well on your information delivery. Clear, concise and accurate. Great job!
Thanks for the information 👍
Great video congrats! In your opinion can a heat sink (aluminum) help to reduce motor temps? Thks in advance for your response. Best rgds
It can help to a certain degree. An integrated heatsink/fan will help quite a bit more.
@@RCJuice Many thanks for your suggestion, I already ordered a heat sink with a compatible fan as you indicate. All da best
Hi ! This is Herman ! Thanks for getting back to me.So ! Do you think ! That i can still go to 6S !
You can definitely try it, just start out easy and keep an eye on those temps :)
Say on a scale truck, if you drive it on the road at a constant walking speed, will the motor heat up constantly or will it reach a certain temp? I ask because I put a Holmes hobbies 3500kv motor with a cc copperhead 10 esc and in low gear on my trx4, the motor will go all the way up to 160f if I just keep running the motor at a constant pace.
The motor will reach operating temp and stay there. Of course there are a lot of variables, but if given a constant load then the temp will peak and stay there and not continue to climb.
Okay, would you say it’s normal for my motor to get that hot under those circumstances? My final gear ratio is already at 79.1:1 with no binding in the drivetrain.
Great info
I run Hobby Star motors in most of my RC crawlers. And a brushless setup in the Traxxas Slash 2WD. No failure.
Thank you for sharing and watching!
Hi I have arrma limitless with big pinion gear ⚙️ more like u said pizza! That’s what I got on it ... so the problem is the esc over heats with in 40 seconds of drive.... let it cool off it runs for 20 seconds and over heats... the esc is xr8 HB. Also running on 6s 500mha 50c battery gives me only 4 minutes and it’s goes down low violates one 4 minutes. So what do you think I should do.... by the way same battery on typhon gives me like 40 minutes or full blast no mercy on typhon
Very nice video. If you want to understand motors exactly watch electroboom video. Basically as the motor spins it also generates its own voltage so when there is no load you need very little energy to keep it running, when you to slow it down by putting a load on it generates less voltage which means you have to put more energy in.
if you connect 2.. 2600 mah 2s batteries w/ an adapter..would that make the source of battery 5200 mah and/or 4s..? and would that be bad to do..?
Yes, it would double your voltage to 4s. It wouldn't be bad as long as your system is rated for 4s use.
I have a rustler 4x4 vxl running on 3s w/ 17t pinion and 54t spur. Running oversized sledgehammer tires. I really like the gearing and tire set up but am overheating very quickly. Is there any options for me to maintain gearing and tire size but have cooler Temps? Would a motor swap help?
Do you think spinners are necessary for electric rc planes? I have a Turbo Timber Evo. and it looks like the ESC would get better air flow if the spinner was not installed.
How helpful are cooling fans for a brushless motor?
There vary helpful will drop the temp by 10 15 degrees so that’s the difference between life and death
I run in big open areas full throttle alot which is hard on esc/motors. I became a pro in telemetry. Had to especially having fe boats. Basically gear or prop to get to 170 degrees towards end of run and shut down at 180. Both esc and motor. Telemetry pays for itself especially batteries shutting down at 3.6v per cell. Thats generally the slight decrease in power anyway. My question is whats your opinion on where on an esc is the most accurate place to put sensor? I put them on the esc itself but am thinking of peeling + wire coating and monitoring wire itself temps. Another advantage to voltage telemetry is monitoring drawdown under load. Bad cells will drawdown further in overall voltage saving letting loose later. Also will help detect shorts by glitching voltage. Good video thanks.
Thank you for watching and for your input!! I do a lot of MX riding in the dunes (and of course the RC's always come with me) and absolutely, that's a different level of load on a power system and you are smart to watch those temps constantly via telemetry. We usually will place a temp pickup for an ESC as close as possible to the middle and bottom of the heatsink to be closest to the "core" of the heat. Placing it in the wire is actually an interesting proposition, my gut tells me it's best to be as close as possible to where the heat is coming from but the wire does hold a good amount of heat as well. The most important part is going to be getting familiar with what the temps need to be at for which ever location you pick if they do vary. Some testing would be in order here...
Hey bud so I have slash xl5 and just upgraded esc and motor brushless cheepy kit from banggood esc up to 3s I purchased a 3s and as soon as I installed after two hard pulles esc literally caught fire melted
Hi, nice video. One question: when do you decide to gear down and when to use a coolingfan? Or do you try to gear in such way that you don’t need a fan? When my motor becomes 130dg is 8% drop of gearratio enough? (That’s 13 teeth pinion to 12).
Our opinion on cooling fans is that they will help a property setup system run cooler, they should not be used to try to bring a setup that otherwise overheats into operating temps. 13t to 12t will give you a noticeable result, but if your motor is 130F already then you do not need to gear any lower, 130F is plenty cool for a motor to run at.
Great video the only thing I think I would touch on that you didn't is track conditions dry loose track conditions going to be less load on your motor less heat and sticky damp wet track condition is going to get well not soaking but tacky a lot more traction going to build up a lot more heat
I put bigger tires, bigger gearing and a new motor mount on my xmaxx 8s a couple of days ago. I didn't notice that my motor fans were not working. I did have a temperatura gun with me, but was so excited to just run. My motor overheated and locked up on me for not checking. Bad idea.
Found you in another comment section lmao
@@aidenmaves5537 hehe. Yeah I'm just trying to get the word out. I hate making mistakes, but that's what we humans do 🤣👍
@@joseCalderon1976 Very true
Great RC content. Thanks for the information
I just bought a surpass hobby rock motor 7800kv it doesn’t say what the top rpm of the motor is. How do I know that?
Once I know that without the gearing is it ok to run it with gearing added to the equation as long as it’s below that number?
KV x Voltage= RPM
@@RCJuice ok thanks.
I’d say the number one rule is don’t smash it in the curb
Cool video! With a new setup, I use a Wattmeter to see if all is within basic specs. After that, I do the real testing whereby temperature is monitored often.
Outstanding! I just finished a build of an XTBe Xray 22 with a hobbywing 4274 motor & HW pro esc. Running 4S 6500, 120C with a 17 tooth pinion gear. I have that Bluetooth thing that tells the temp and data log plugged in. I ran it for a short time today and checked it. Motor temp was 110F @ just under 37k rpm. I didn’t run hard, but will tomorrow. I noticed the engine mount was a little loose, which was my fault- I never locktited it and torqued the bolts down. No issue because I was careful. I’m allowing 24 hours for the locktite to set, then letting it rip. I loved and appreciated your video, subscribed and would appreciate any advice.
Pete
This helped me out a lot. Thanks!
If motor gets hot what the parts get damaged the sator or winding. My got hot other day and u could smell it and some smoke after it cooled down it seems to run ok. Any input u can let me know
The stator windings are what will be most damaged by the heat. If it is working OK for now it's probably fine but the power and life may be reduced from having been overheated.
Great information
Very good explanation. Easy to understand. Thanks
Thank you for watching Edwin!
Verrrryy nicely done
Thank you for watching!
i just change motors and esc to my drone mjx bugs 5w but i cannot calibrate them.
if i turn it on and push up the remote gets full throtle and dont came down
the esc are blhelli.s ms15a and the motors dys be1806 2300kv
It's hard to say without some more info and seeing the setup, but calibration issues are usually related to 1 of a few things. Number 1 is to make sure that you throttle TRIM setting is all the way DOWN so the ESC is not receiving any throttle channel input at idle. Number 2 is to ensure that the throttle channel TRAVEL (sometimes listed as EPA) is set to the MAXIMUM setting in both throttle and brake directions. Depending on radio this can be 100%, 120%, 150% etc. Number 3 is that some radios need to have the throttle channel set to REVERSE for them to work with many ESC's, this is usually always true on Futaba and FlySky radios but is also the case with many of the other brands floating around out there.
i have a arrma kraton 6s with the blx 185 system. i recently hook up , the powerhobby /yeah racing twin turbo fan heatsink . i use a y-harness and hook it up to a spektrum s2100 receiver . i ran it on a hot day for a half hour , and check the heat. i notice one of the turbo fans would stop and start, in rhythm with the esc fan that slowed down and speed up. also there was a weird noise coming from one of the fans. Do you think the blx 185 esc can handle the power drain from two 30mm fans?
Thanks for taking the time to break down this info for people. Very helpful info👍
Also, nice to see the person whom I been ordering some of my RC parts from lol. You have an amazing selection & at pretty fair $.
I came across this video in search of trying to see if others were having motor heating issues with their Arrma Typhon 6S RC car. Because I'm running stock gears (14T pinion /50T spur) on 6S & that motor heats up pretty quickly while bashing, like in 5 minutes.
The stock internal gearing ratio is 3.57:1 & the final drive ratio is 11.79:1 with 117mm tires.
So I don't think I can really gear down much while already running a 14T pinion, maybe 12T. While I can run the car on 4S & probably drop the temp, it kinda defeats the purpose of having a 6S basher lol. So I'm wondering if I go with a lower Kv motor, like a 1700kv, will it run cooler on 6S since I'm dropping the motor RPM (from 45.5k to 37.7k) & increasing torque? 🤔
Anyhow, awesome video, thanks! 👍
"if I go with a lower Kv motor, like a 1700kv, will it run cooler on 6S since I'm dropping the motor RPM" - the short answer is Yes. The long answer is, it'll run cooler only if you don't immediately throw an oversize pinion gear on it :)
I know you probably don't have any toy grade vehicles, but I'm going to ask anyway.
I have a couple of 1/12 scale trucks that have the combination Receiver/ESC. After about five minutes of running they both quit. After setting for a few minutes, they run again, and the longer I let them set, the longer they run. I'm guessing there's a temp safety cutoff, either in the ESC or the motor, or both. Do ESC's have Temp cutoffs, Do motors have Temp cutoffs.
Also I see sensored and Sensorless motors. Do the sensors cut the motor off if it overheats?
Update: I finally decided it was time to make these toys run. I bought servos, and ESC's and motors, and set them up on my Flysky transmitter.
But . . . even more interested if safety cutoffs are built into motors and/or ESC's.
If my cheapie Virhuck truck was quitting and then running again after setting a few minutes, I'd think more expensive equipment has built in protection too.
The majority of today's hobby grade ESC's are designed with voltage and temp cut off built-in. These settings are adjustable and quite useful.
How can I have the most long range that is possible for my 124019.. I want to upgrade brushless with a new Esc so I need a new receiver and radio.. Which is the best?? Which has the best range? Should I buy a 2.4ghz boost like the immerson Ghost? Or are there any better? I definitely want to have a range more than 1 km.. 3 or more would be really good..
I apologize but long-range radio setups are not our specialty and we are not versed enough in these so we cannot make any recommendations. We assume this is for an FPV setup? For standard car applications, 2.4GHz gives plenty of range.
I'm wondering if running too hot for a long time can deteriorate the motor in the long run (less powerfull over time). Could you check that on a motor by spinning the rotor and feeling the steps of the magnets? or it has nothing to do with that?
great informative video man thank you. i right away bought the exact temp gauge, so compact! i'll be using it for motorcycle riding as well, interesting to learn how the temperatures of asphalt and tires relate, just to get a feel for it. awesome, thanks again
Thank you for watching! Motorcycles are another passion here at RCJuice so we could not agree more :)
love rcjuice stuff, thx for video
My question is what causes ESC overheating? I tend to gear up and drop to a lower voltage... is that stupid or does that make sense? Because I've had some esc overhearing on my k8 that I run on 39t spur and 6s... not always, but enough to shake confidence...thanks anyone!
Excessive current draw through the ESC will overheat it the same as the motor, motors just tend to build heat faster. You are correct to gear up/drop voltage, a higher voltage system with lower gearing is more efficient, but for temperature-control purposes, you are doing the right thing.
@@RCJuice Thank you so much!!! I thought that was right... but of course, if the voltage drops too low, then current increases... so I wasn't sure... when we ran 6s on a Typhon with bigger wheels, the esc went into thermal shutdown in just a few minutes of driveway testing... we didn't understand... so we tried to learn why and we concluded it was because we could barely pull the throttle and the esc had to "block" the current which would heat up the resistors? Does that make sense? We reeeeally appreciate the understanding 🙏
Thanks for the information
Thank you for watching!
How do you adjust the gearing if the motor is overheating?
You want to reduce the gearing, which is done by either going to a smaller pinion gear, or a larger spur gear.
HELLO THERE WHAT IS TEMP ON THE MOTOR SO IT WOULD OVER HEAT ?????
170F and under is ideal.
My motor was burning hot after I put the punch up to max , now I turned it down to stock again
Herman here ! OK ! WELL DO ! THANK"S ALOT.
Hi, i run with 3s on combo Orion vortex 4100 KV and 30/81 geraring.But motor is too hot, and I stop it for few minute, for well done works two cooling fan on it.This set up its' a damage risk?
4100KV on 3S is a very hot setup, you really need to gear it very low to keep temps in check but if you are going to stick to 3S we really recommend closer to 3000KV.
@@RCJuice Last gear was 26/81 I have changed for reach 60 mph
HELLO THERE RC JUCIE WHAT ARE THE TEMP FOR THE ESC TO KEEP DOWN SO IT WOULD NOT OVER HEAT ????
150F or less is best for ESC's.
Very helpful video, thank you. I can't wait to install my new RCJuice Hobbystar 4092 1480kv on my Kraton, when it arrives. I'm glad to hear it will handle 8s(conservatively of course). What is the best way to support such a long can, I've got a Hot Racing motor mount, but wonder if it will cope?
Random solution, but we often use some pieces of hard rubber (if you can find gym-floor type rubber it's great) and cut a piece that fits snug between the end of the motor and the chassis. A bit of epoxy helps keep it in place, we do this a lot and it seems to help.
@@RCJuice that's a great idea, thank you. I'm expecting that it's going to cop a beating, so I just want to try to protect it the best I can. Keep up the great service guys, it really does make a big difference and you stand out when you help us out.
@@jonowillmer Our pleasure to help, it's a simple trick but it definitely does the trick. We truly appreciate your kind words and appreciate your business!
PrimaRC what esc you running with the 1480?
Is the Kevlar on the rota unwrapping also caused by heat?
It can, but indirectly. What usually happens is that the motor gets so hot that there is some expansion, and the rotor starts to contact the inside of the motor and starts to tear it up.
Great information. I'm having trouble finding the answer to a question that might not get asked frequently.
Can you damage an ESC or brushless motor from running too small of a C rating?
The short answer is no, if it was an extreme situation then that could be a contributing factor, but in 99% of scenarios a low c-rating in of itself is not going to damage an ESC or motor.
@@RCJuice Thanks a ton for the reply, it's greatly appreciated.
I'm beefing up a little project car, Feiyue FY01. It came with damaged electronics so the company told me to keep it and sent a refund, very excited.
I'm putting in a brushless motor from a FY06 and planning to replace the ESC with a Hobby Wing 10BL120.
The motor is rated at 3200 kv. As far as the ESC goes, I was looking for a nice budget unit and honestly the HW looks like a great fit, for the space I have.
I've also been searching battery option. Looking for a 2s with around 3000mah and ~40c discharge rate. The battery tray is pretty small at 87mm x 40mm.
I've looked online and can only find some Chinese brands like the Limskey 3500mah , little hesitant but it looks like a pretty good size fit also.
Again thanks so much for your time and if you have any insight I'd really appreciate it.
@@1Axis Our pleasure to help, and you sure can't be mad at a free car! 2S is a good setup for a 3200KV motor although you are correct, that is a bit of an odd-sized battery tray so your options are going to be limited. Please feel free to e-mail us at support@rcjuice.com with any more questions you may have, we are happy to help!
Hey bro I decided to buy an 18 tooth and a 19 tooth pinion for my kraton with my hobbystar 1730 in the hex 8 ESC does that seem like an all-right set up
That is a reasonable starting point, just watch those temps but you should be closel
Great video thanks for the advice.
Our pleasure, thank you for watching!
Hi John hey I'm coming over to buy that temp gun there you have and maybe some other stuff thank you so much and it was real good to see you in person . The 6s batteries are awesome batteries the 4800 hard case hopefully I can get some 4S from U2 it was awesome meeting you and I will tell about your company to my friends and to my UA-cam channel on the products you have😉🙋♂️💪💪👊👊🤙🤙👍👍✌
Do you know if turning the timing down on a ESC will help lower the KV rating and keep your motor cooler?
Reducing timing generally always results in cooler operating temps.
Could you tell me why a Hobbystar 4585, 1800kv motor would run hot on a 15t pinion / 46 spur on 6s?…..I got a temp of about 230° after 5 minutes of operation.
It's not really possible to give an appropriate answer without more information. There are too many factors that have been left out. At minimum, we need to know what ESC is being used and what make and model vehicle.
@@RCJuice I’m using a Mamba Monster X8S on 6s, it’s planted in a Kraton XL build.
Thanks for sharing Sir👍
3s Arrma Vorteks: I am looking for the touch the motor and its room temp sort of thing, is that possible? I will buy new motor or whatever, I made custom cooling for my current setup to get it where I want (ripped old heatsink off of chipsets and put a bigger one and bigger fan). 140 degrees on ESC. But motor gets warmer, and it's on stock gearing. And I am going through 2 full 5500 11.4v lipos non stop so it's pretty good. I just want it to be icey cool :D Any Ideas on a motor that might deal with the load better and keep same ESC ?
The stock motor is 3200KV, this is acceptable for 3S as long as you monitor temps, but the only way you are going to noticeably reduce the motor temperature is to decrease gearing, or lower the motor KV. As long as the motor is not overheating (over 170F) then you are OK as-is.
Good video nobody is talking about motor heat I keep on burning motors on my TRX4
Learning is the #1 rule of life fun/ serious
do you know if there is any way to calculate how much a motor can pull?
The best way it to check actual draw with an inline current meter like these: www.rcjuice.com/toolkitrc-wm150-150a-50v-watt-meter-power-analyzer-current-tester-pwm-output.html
Nice comprehensive story! 👍My hobbywing max 8 is at 60 degrees celsius at 4S. Think i have to gear it down then? It is pretty quick now, and dont want to lose much top speed 🤔
60C (140F) is still plenty safe, you generally want the motor to stay under 170F, so you still have some room left in it. Just watch the temps closely if you gear up since you are getting there, but if you are not getting above 60C then you do still have some headroom.
Nice. Good info. I always have my temp gun with me after blowing up a couple of brushless RC motors. Not fun.
What the best motor and esc you recommend for 4wd
Kv
I have heard using the touch method on your motor to see if it's hot they try say it was bad but that how I do it it works
I have a 3650 3300kv in a 4wd MT 1/10 but small 1/10. Its the Helion Avenge/Rival Mt10. If i go up to a 3660 or 3665 will this help lower my temps? I think maybe the trucks are undergeared. 12/54 gearing but im newer to the hobby only had the truck a yr or so but ive never been able to run 3s long before temps are near danger zone. Thank u for any advice.
It may make a small difference, but if you are overheating now you will likely want to drop a tooth off your pinion.
Thanx for your reply. I guess i need to get a 10&11 tooth.
I have the second remote from the left on that shelf... rad
Doesn't everyone?😂
Hi nice vid...just asking will this setup ok to use? Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 Waterproof Brushed 80A ESC + D1RC 550kv 29T brushed motor with built-in fan...
In general that sounds like a good combo, but it depends on what vehicle it's going in and the overall setup. Monitor those temps, as long as it's in a suitable vehicle and setup correctly then that will be a solid combo.
@@RCJuice yeah I haven't ordered yet I'm still searching more infos. Planning to get scx10-2 kit or rtr where can I start building for a newbie like me...still lot to consider:) thanks bro..I'll inform you when I decided...
@@rcnoypi8758 Of course, we are always happy to help so please don't hesitate to shoot us an e-mail at support@rcjuice.com with any questions you have. We love getting new guys set up with info on the hobby! We have a few good reads in our "RCJuice University" if you are interested: www.rcjuice.com/rcu
@@RCJuice no problem...I'll check it out:) appreciate your help bro...thanks!
Thanks good tip fix my rc
Hi, why the engine(2440, 1/16rc) breaks the rotor rod with a pinon?
Hello...i was wondering when you guys will get the 4092 1730 kv motors back in stock. Thanks 🙂🤙
Hey Harlon, we do not have an ETA yet but it should be soon. Shipments from China are still a complete disaster and shipments are all incredibly late due to the situation. We apologize for the lag and thank you for your patience.
Nice vid! Quick question: How do I see the max RPM of a motor? I've been looking for some online but can't seem to find the max RPM of it.
If you are referring to the maximum rated RPM of a motor, it is going to be in the specs from the manufacturer. As a general rule most motors should be limited to 50,000RPM.
@@RCJuice okay thank you so much
☠️BLACK BARON☠️ It's the motor that can heat up very well and make the inside cabin get so hot hat even the temp measurement of the ESC gets a warning. Especially when running motors in very hot summer conditions.
Not long ago i bought a slash wih the vxl 3s. The seller sold me a 2 s battery. My esc was making a lot of heat and fried. So if i understand well, i should only run 3 cell battery, right?
Verry helpfull video. Thanks a lot. Like and sub.
The ESC is 3S capable, but it will work fine with a 2S battery and would definitely not be damaged by simply running a 2S battery vs a 3S. This sounds like you have something else going on, we'd need to know a bit more about the overall setup and exactly what it was happened to the ESC. If it happened right away it is possible the ESC was previously damaged, sometimes when you overheat a system it will work OK when it cools off but will have some running issues and will still eventually completely fail. Please shoot us an e-mail if you'd like some more detailed help with this: www.rcjuice.com/contacts/
Thank you for watching, and for the like and sub!
@@RCJuice thank you. Im french canadian annd ill watch over and over your video to make sure i understand well. Ill contact you by email for sure later with more detail and a video. Thankd again.
😎👍
What’s the best brushless setup for a stock ecx amp 1/10
There are a lot of options, depending on what you are looking to do with it. Please shoot us an e-mail and we'd be happy to give you some recommendations based on your scenario: support@rcjuice.com
I'm always getting into debates, shall I say lol, about higher amp ESC's. Lots people are convinced the ESC pushes power into to motor, when it's simply not true
We would say the majority of people believe this to be the case, it is true that different ESC's can "provide" different peak numbers, it is indeed the motor that "pulls" current through an ESC. This is the reason most hobbyists believe that if an ESC fails it is the fault of the ESC, we need to look at the entire system and realize the motor is the end of the line, but it is responsible for pulling power FROM the battery, THROUGH the ESC and finally through the motor itself and that motors keep pulling power until they melt down. Whatever else is in line to the mtoor is subject to the same.
@@RCJuice Yeah that's true. It's all about the number crunching from the lipo to ESC and finally the motor. All need to be capable of delivering the required results, or something's gotta give