Tricks To Remove & Service Shimano Deore Freehub Body. Clean, Grease, Assemble.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Freehub overhaul can be made along with the bearings service, shown here: • How To Service Shimano...
RJ freehub tool: • How To Make A Freehub ...
15 mm hex wrench you need: amzn.to/2BKGoZx
freehub grease: amzn.to/2rZPa1B
Thank you! I had to search for a while to find this video. Everything that comes up is either microspline or really old QR stuff.
I find the attitude echoed in many of these posts, "but it's so cheap to throw it in the landfill and buy a new one and I don't have to learn or do nearly anything just buy and waste", very disheartening. I believe it was H.G. Wells who said;"Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race
". I can assure you it is not "you" he is talking about.
you should always separate balls (those 38+34) and not mix them - when you take them out and put them back in - as they will not have the same size but eventually wear a bit so the size will differ from one side to the other. i am talking fractions of a micron but it does matter. take notice that good quality grease can act as a polishing agent (due to the additives) whenever direct contact of metal to metal would occur (mixed lubrication, not boundary, not hydrodynamic) so that they would have even smaller grade then when new. so, the balls will be worn a bit (not that you see it) and they should wear down evenly on one side but not in the same amount as to the other side.
Unless the freehub body has play, all I ussually do is just immerse it in thick silicon oil and keep it for a night to let excess oil go. It is much easier procedure and last years before you need to run the procedure again.
Good video, and great info here. But I'm not really sure this service is absolutely needed on Shimano freehubs. I've been running mostly Shimano hubs in my 21+ years of riding and have never had a single problem with any of them, except for a broken front axle on one occasion. I've taken Shimano freehubs apart before just for the heck of it but not because they needed any kind of service or repair. My current bike has XTR wheels/hubs which are about 5 years old and have over 25k miles and I've never even adjusted the bearings, much less remove the axles etc and they still work like new. In my opinion Shimano hubs are best left alone and will last a VERY long time without any problems. Which is a *LOT* more than I can say about some other brands for the few times that I've tried them.
I also have a tandem MTB with a Shimano FH-RM30 rear hub (basically one of their lower-end hubs, and not tandem-specific). We've been riding it for a year now and it has over 2000 miles and works as good as new with zero maintenance.
I can testify, I've ridden my Surly Pugsley fatbike for about 7 years now, all year around, it's my daily rider and my choice for long hauls, it's still on the same Shimano freehub after doing over 40K km which is impressive, it's been abused a lot.
super b tb-1018 is like 10 bucks. I made mine from a 1/2 - 22mm hexagon socket using a belt sander, an angle grinder and a file. After that I ordered the super b. 😅
Hi I love this channel
Thanks for the video. I see that the bearings of the deore range are larger than those of lower range, could you change them in this case ???
How would I understand if I tighten with correct torque the locknut which holds freehub body brearing together? The locknut which is also acts as a cone. You tighten it on 14:05
In my case I either get some weird axial movement/play in the entire freehub body (like if it's undertightened), or else I think I ovethight them. But the small play is always there.
SHIMS - there are 3 shown in the video. Remove one of the thin ones and check again for the end-play. If still there, remove the other thin one. It's unlikely that you'd have so much play that the thick one should be removed. The body should be fully tightened together as it should be screwed-down on the shims - NOT on the bearing-balls.
I have custom hardtail made with expensive parts very nice and strong ,and I maintain always, bro I love MTB ride hard , ,,,
Beste
Ik heb een vraagje
Is het mogelijk om overschakelen van body 10 naar 12 ?
Alvast bedankt
I'm wondering if the grease on the pawls is a bit too thick? Good video. What is that Topeak tool?
Rixter could be on my hope pro 2 evo just a little bit of grease is needed I have a syringe filled for this purpose
In Finnish winter the grease seizes and the freehub will skip.
Topeak disc tool - for trueing a bent disc
I am not sure if this was already commented, but I believe you put the wrong number of balls in the inner part. My experience is that it is almost always odd numbers.
So it probably 37 inner and 35 outer.
quality freehub design
I think its safe to say my hub is better off dead. I bent a 21mm spanner using it as a lever trying to get my freehub off and used a section of 25mm galvo square section as a lever to and it tore straight through that XD
Great job! Thanks
Whow talking about detail nice precision
Ok, I now have a new appreciation of my Hope hubs that are so easy compared to this.
when putting the freehub back on, the nut that holds it on, that the axle goes through... is this hand tightened, tight enough without play but not too tight?
None of these videos address that point, and it's the most important information. All the rest you can figure out yourself.
It should be fully tightened (though I don't have a torque-spec), as it's screwed-in metal-to-metal - NOT resting on the bearing-balls.
2:17 better not to mix balls between left cup and right cup. They are chosen to go into the same cup side.
I read that using a magnet to remove the ball bearings was not ideal. Is there any thruth to that? Thanks!
Somepeople says that may magnetized bearings. Maybe but are that kind magnetized permanently? I do not know.
Yep, it's not so good due to all metal dust from wear will be glued to the balls
@@Lezz015 They would glued anyway because metal dust stuck in to grease.
@@Mersuharrastaja but in this case bearing service will be much harder
Dude why the put more than 10mm
True but in this case it's a must as the through bolt has 12mm in the rear. It's not a QR hub.
@@kaedeschulz5422 why put 11mm which doesn't exist?
@@kaedeschulz5422 I have 12 mm Allen key but I don't have 11mm
And it's 11mm
@@magnumllama400 You know that i'm talking about the bolt to mount the rear wheel on a 148mm boost rear end right?
@@kaedeschulz5422 I'm talking about freehub body bolt
It's multi spline key. Not Allen key . It's not the best
I have tried to service my Deore XT freehub cause it has no grease and became sticky.
I made 1,2 meter long lever to help me to unskrew the freehub bolt, and it's still doesn't move.
Shimano hubs are so terrible unservicable garbage. Never ever I buy another shimano hub.
Next time buy some novatec with sealed bearing. If there's a problem you replace whole bearing, which are cheap. You can press them with a simple screw tool.
Sorry the hexkey is 14mm or 15mm?
It's 15mm
In this case 15. it Could also be 10 or 14mm
@@straitlinesender2837 or 11mm in my case
@@matyasmalik dafuq
That first seal, witch you remove with screwdriver, I got good tip from Park Tool's video where Calvin Jones suggested use tyre lever instead screwdriver. And you can put back with right size socket.
Yeah
If you don't find a 15mm Allen key, you can use a 15mm bolt welded to a right angled rod
If you have to take the freehub body apart, then you can use the TB-1018 tool, from SuperB, to dismantle it. Alternatively you can use a Morningstar Freehub Injector so that you don't even have to dismantle it at all! Just use it with degreaser to flush out the old lube and dirt, let it sit for a while to dry out and then inject it with your choice of lube. I use a heavy oil, like gear box oil, which I've done now for about 20 years or so, with good results.
5:11 doing this without a special tool is the easiest way to damage the parts. In your video it seems easy because it's either brand new or you did it first offscreen. In real life this part will most likely be very hard to turn around within the freehub body. You usually open work hubs with seized parts, not the fresh new ones.
Same goes for dissasembling of mobile phones on YT, all goes fantastic and when you try it you find that very complicated and tricky
Depends why you want to remove the freehub. If it is just a bit 'sticky' you probably do not need to remove it, but can get by with flooding it through with a solvent to wash out old grease, followed by a light oiling, with cleaning and regreasing the axle bearings.
A big torx driver also works if you don’t have a 15mm hex. If i remember correctly i used a t55
it's recommended to use thick oil than grease when relubing the freehub because over time grease gets stiff and gummy and it slows down the pawl movement in the freehub, but you can use grease when you're putting back the bearing balls so it holds it and prevents it from rolling all over the place, or use silicone grease to lube the freehub(its much thinner and its safe for plastics and rubber)
don't use magnetic screwdrivers to extract the bearing balls and then reusing it because it magnetizes the bearing balls thus preventing it to roll smoothly
cheers
The teacher you wish you had in school 🤝🔥
One of the best bike channels if not the best, BIG CONGRATS🥇
You need a 12 mm star drive to remove from the wheel. I could not get the freewheel apart so soaked in petrol. Have it a tap on bench and pawls then worked. Final clean in thinners, soaked in container of engine oil and works perfectly.
I took an old socket, put it in the big old bench vice - and with an angle grinder, ground it with 2 notches to fit in the freehub to free up the guts. Great video!
Grime? Call that grime? I have more grime than that in my eyes when I wake up every morning! I've just stripped the rear wheel in my 2005 Kona. Now that's grime. The FWH is dead. :-(. Really dead. As others say you can make a tool to dismantle the FWH. I did. Thanks for the video.
Amazing detailed video thank you so much!! 15 mm hex allen key is veryt difficult to find and i bought an expensive one from park took for about £48 !! Used a seat post for longer leverage!! Thank you for the tips!!
But I can't find a two tooth cup removal tool which is about 25-26 mm inner diameter ! I bought a Unior Suntour 1670.2/4 which is smaller in diameter and doesn't fit the two teeth. The cup is stuck in the freehub.
It looks more complicated to clean and maintain than the other budget hubs. I always prefer Shimano Deore for MTB, but I'm thinking now to get a Sealed Bearing type one now. :)
37 balls bottom and 35 on top, l have exactly the same hub model.
Can I ask the diameter of the balls?
@@clentmichaeldevera777 i can tell you the diameter tomorrow
@@therealjuicy3537 Advance thanks Sir!!! That would be amazing 😄😄😄
@@clentmichaeldevera777 Did you find out the diameter of the bearings? Also wouldn't it make sense for there to be 36 balls on the top and bottom?
Mine had 37 bottom and 35 on top too. Diameter is 2.381 mm (3/32") .
You do not want grease under the pawls.
My novatec hubs are serviced faster than I can count to 37. God damn shimano?!
yea 15 mm hex
Now im interested to see how my pawls look cuz in one specific spot it skips like it's broken so i want to see if that's the case
Nice video! Thaks a lot! Do you know the size (diameter) of the bearigs? Mine need replacing
Good video! I did part of this procedure, stopped before disasembling the freehub. My older Deore XT required a 10mm hex wrench. My hub wobbled on the wheel, so I tightened with the 10mm hex and put everything else back together.
This has helped me, thanks.
I didn't have any tool available to remove the freehub body from the hub, so I just left it on there and disassembled it like that. It was cumbersome but still worked like a charm.
This video was helpful.. thank you, I watch many of you videos and have leaned much. Keep up the awesome work 👍
Need tips on getting the cup losen up so that i can open the freehub oil it and change the bearings.
Thank you. I will do it tomorrow.. greetings from Bolivia, a horrible place for cycling in general.
In my XT 8010B hubs freehub the balls where 35/37. Not 34/38.
35/37 for Deore Freehub too
@@franciscoaguilar9601 so i gape is always there?
One ball in the bearings is misplaced: the author rushed to reassemble his freehub again 🤣🤣🤣
Can I ask the size of the balls?
Totally excellent. Thank you. Have a friends bike for service. Freehub needs stripping.
great vid mate, i struggles for hours and dont wanna buy a new hub thank you for saving me a dollar
Get u here bro 😂👊🏼
Does anyone one know how to convert the type of freehub body show in the video so that it it fits the SRAM XD hub body?
Thanks for the vid. Finally sorted my freewheel problem with a 15mm key.
All other freehub service video on youtube like gmbn or gcn they use oil not grease inside the hub
It depends... if you have the ratchet system like the dt 240s that it will only work with this special thin grease hitch looks like oil. The pawl system is a bit different ... but yep also here is the special thin grease the best choice. A thin layer of grease will also work. Less is more here 😂
Yeah, I only put a little chain oil so the ratchet works reliably and positively
My understanding is that ball-bearing sets are always odd numbers. So 35 and 37 would've been correct. But, I could be wrong?
Excellent stuff! The wheel against the wall, the 15mm hex key and the steel pipe for leverage. It got the job done for me and I am not sure I would have persevered without having seen your video. Thank you.
Thanks to your detailed explanation video, I performed hub maintenance for the first time today. In fact, this is the first maintenance in 14 years. Now that I have learned it, I will maintain it once a year. Thank you again to mu Hub and Your.
Thank you Sir!! Your video tutorial is a big help
I did not count the bearings but mine has a little gap too. It is normal i think because these items nt servicable parts. when try to fill gaps with bearings, it did not spin nicely. Thanks
When I lose track of bearing ball numbers my rule is to fill the race and subtract one.
My front wheel thru Axel lock is broken. I can't remove Axel for it. I did not found any videos about that contains on UA-cam .plz make it for us..
Esse vídeo tá me ajudando aqui no brasil em 2024 . Tks 🇧🇷
To install the seal I`m using flank socket applicable by diameter. Just put flank socket above of seal and easialy pushing it by hand.
AMAZING DETAILED VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have a ALEX ACE rear hub on my Cannondale Bad Boy 5 - Sram 11 hex socket , just added 10w-30 oil and took the rear seal and forced Automotive wheel bearing Grease .and reassembled
I never put grease where the engager are located, only a dips of a nice oil, I use motorex CNC spindle oil, itc vgc 46. Work for me, on the opposite side behind the rubber in my case, I put a lot of thick grease as a preventative action.
Good video! Only I wouldn’t use the thick grease with the pals. Just oil. The grease will make them stick quickly. On the rest grease is fine.
*This procedure looks complicated for a relatively inexpensive part. I think I would have to upgrade the number of pawls to justify the time and effort.*
The ball bearings are different, the 34 are black and 38 is chrome in my freehub 🙄🙄🙄
Congradulation !!
przecież to szajkbajkier polak
I stay with dt Swiss way easier
Ummm......no thank you.
DT SWISS is awesome
@@th_js Ummmm......no thank you.
@@theadventurebiker I get you don't like DT, but did you know that other people are allowed to like what they want??
@@th_js Well yes of course!
Iam from Malaysia and using freehub exactly same like this. MT400. Its difficult to find 15mm allen key anyway.
Whenever you can't find a suitable hex-wrench - use the head of a hex-bolt and clamp-down hard on the shaft with a vise-grip. You could even weld a lever onto the shaft of the hex-bolt if extra torque was required.
This is the best trick to remove a difficult freehub I found. Thanks
Ty ją w swojej piaście nie mam kulek tylko łożyska. Jak to rozebrać ?
Seems like, that oil you can see inside a hub - is a stratification of original grease.
I was for a vid with same hub as mine, finally the same Merida wheel, the whole thing is the same 🥳
It looks like it was unnecessary for you to do this service, but it was still a good video
Is a microspline swap available for this hub?
Bought deore m6000 hubs..wanted to re grease everything before using..surprised to see the inside because it is nothing like that in the video.. mine has only 2 pawls instead of 4..is mine counterfeit?
No. On your hub there should be three spaces for the pawls but only two pawls
Konecne video, ktore mi super pomohlo. Dakujem.
Mine does not loosen. I even heated it up. The spokes tend to bent iso the hub that comes loose.
I did this once...and then I realized that a Shimano freehub body is 16$ BRAND NEW!
but its fun to know every nook and cranny of your bike :). got a 15mm allen and the continued watching the video, now i feel like f**k it il try to clean it out in a year or two
You can remove the axle without removing the cassette first but you will need to remove the cassette in order to rebuild the axle and to remove the free hub body. RJ the bike guy has great tutorials.
@Carl Green when I have trouble like your having just bang it in with a hammer and use a rachet with a cheater bar like a seat post or whatever will slip over your rachet. If it slips out ..bang it in again and try it again keeping the freewheel tool as flush as possible. They can be extremely difficult to remove sometimes. But if you don't give up and get determined... you'll get it.
Stupid comment, because you people waste everything we don't have anything. When is the first moon tour? Stay there!
Hi can i use the unior freewheel tool 2/4. Does this fits?
Blood hell mate, is it 14mm or 15mm allen key ?
Yes, I've seen 14 and 15mm on youtube for Shimano. Seems unlikely they'd use both.
@@jbkstafford it's 14mm for my M8000 hub. if you look up the hub on the shimano website and look into the dealers manual it will tell you.
@@criZp0 Thank you.
Did not work ! Shimano hub FH - MT - 400B
u can make ur own tool with a 21mm or a 13/16 socket to remove this cap
Hi,
Your tutorial videos are the best because bit helps me a lot 🙂
Can I ask what is the dimension of the tiny loose ball bearings?
Advance thanks
Usually they are 1/8”, but it could vary for different freehubs
Good video - thanks.
About the only thing I don't have in the toolbox is a 15mm hex wrench
Buy one. they're not expensive.
Hey, I currently have a Shimano Deore M525 32Holes (Bolt type). I am wondering will it fit 11s cassette (Slx) because I am choosing between Deore and Slx? Thank you! :)
@Dave Sihaloho What variant of Deore hub youre using? I mean the bolt or the center lock type? :)
What size allen key is needed for the 525 freehub body?
Awesome explanation. Is the best ever I've seen!!!
This deore hub is same only like non series shimano hub?
Hi I would probably do this as I'm into not buying new unless totally unavoidable. Most manufacturers recommend not using grease only oil, as grease may cause a sluggish freehub. Is this different for Shimano freehubs as I'm just about to service one and want to get the right lube for it.
Dumonde Freehub Oil is a relatively new product specifically for this. They also have a freehub grease if that's what your freehub requires.
The free hub is normal from slight shakinh side to side?
the cleats are why not in simmetrical positions ?
Mine need torx M70 key. Who the fudge has the key like that 🤦♂
People at the Shimano assembly line have that. And maybe some heavy duty mechanics.
Nice info, thanks for sharing :)
I use the axle to push the seal in. This way it's 100% even going in. Any other way and I would've destroyed my seal.
I prefer right size socket
@@Mersuharrastaja That is a good idea, I'll probably do that in my next overhaul.
I'm not recommended the grease it best oil
Super helpful. Thank you very much.
İs it same process with 61? Series deore ?