Oh, and get this - DJI just rolled out their latest gadget, the Focus Pro - it's a slick new follow focus that can totally run on its own and it's a game changer for the pros.
seems great for a one-man-show like me, filming myself. Either I can use the AF or I stand in front of the camera and check on the monitor my focus manually. Great video Marcos.
Give a 90 or 100mm lens another shot, I moved the motor and ring focus as far forward as I could and it worked perfectly. One other odd thing, if you have one of those silly drink umbrellas for small drinks, tape one open above the unit (as if your unit has a small umbrella) and that might fix your focus problem during bright daytime, give it a shot!
Its not about a lens hood, its that these sensors have LUX limits. They essentially cant see the beam they are projecting if ambient light is too high. Also as it works in IR, IR would pass through most materials. Especially cocktail umbrellas. Their data says "Light intensity above 70,000: Maximum 2.2 meters." And 100k lux is bright sunlight. So it only works at short ranges in bright outdoor lighting conditions.
@@PopoRamos IR is best for daylight, it just would need to be more powerful. The only issue iw found with IR is that it has accuracy of 1cm. Visible red lasers have accuracy of 1-2mm. I have built a camera that uses visible spectrum laser, as its film/still so it wont matter the same as in a cinema camera as its not focusing when you take the photo. But i needed the accuracy as its 4x5". I'm not sure how accurate these IR autofocus systems are. I haven't really found any info, can they handle f1.2 wide open?
Thanks for posting. Really glad to see you mention that it requires hard-stop cine lenses. I have a mix of both manual photo and cine and was hoping to find a solution that accommodates both. I wonder, can the focus motor be rotated to the lens' soft stop manually (like a manual user calibration mode - definitely not ideal)?
The hype on social got me but months later and after countless recalibrations, I was on a few shoots with a single subject and could not get it to focus no matter what. It was the third shoot where this happened, even after checking the night before and calibrating. Definitely not reliable enough for professional gigs but way too expensive for weekend shooting.
Great video :) a question. When switching lenses, do you press the motor button once to pause it first? And then put on another lens, and press two times to change profile? Cant find info on correct way to change between lenses
DJI has their “stand alone” LiDAR unit but it requires 73957291 cables and costs thousands when it’s all said and done, this is literally 1 piece with 0 cables 🤯
@@PopoRamos yeah as far as I’m aware DJI actually has face detection and stuff in their module where this is relatively primitive just focusing on whatever is closest to the sensor
Looks like red komodo so S35. It's likely user error and cam be used based on how you mount the motor. (Might have to remount depending on the lens size and FL)
IR has 1cm focus accuracy as far as i know. This also has 4m max range, so using longer lenses would kind of be pointless unless you want super tight compositions.
@@MarcosRochaTV ok thanks, why I asked I had seen another video where hes basically saying the subject has to be center frame or else the focus will shift to the background. most times you wont frame your subject like that.
Where do I start? What a nightmare of a god awful product. If you want to flush about $300 down the toilet, do that instead of buying this piece of trash. Think about it. If you flush the money down the toilet, you can film it with your phone (which will actually focus) and you'll have that video for life. If you spend the money on this garbage, you'll have a paper weight with some decent packaging. I followed these steps in the video with my device and everything was fine except upon completion, it doesn't work. The video says to recalibrate it again if there is an issue. So I did, following the steps exactly as listed in this video. Nothing. When I can get something in focus, the motor does make a feeble attempt to keep it in focus I guess, but it fails pathetically. It doesn't matter if I move fast or slow, or if the subject moves fast or slow. It can't keep the focus assist card in focus which is stationary, taped on the wall, even if I step back at a snails pace. I mean what's the point? Just a useless piece of equipment. If you're looking to spend almost $300 to get pissed off and smash your head into a wall, consider this. Pay me $150 and I'll come smash your head into a wall for you and you can save about $150. Long story short is you get what you pay for. In this case, I paid $300 for a trash product. Don't make the same mistake as me.
Oh, and get this - DJI just rolled out their latest gadget, the Focus Pro - it's a slick new follow focus that can totally run on its own and it's a game changer for the pros.
Awesome video. Was great to see you again Marcos.
Thanks man! You too!
seems great for a one-man-show like me, filming myself. Either I can use the AF or I stand in front of the camera and check on the monitor my focus manually. Great video Marcos.
Inteeerressttinnggg, never seen this product before, only DJI’s version. Will be looking into this for sure! Thanks for the vid! Subbed
Thanks for the video. I would love to add this to my Canon C100 MKII with my Rokinon lenses. 👍🏾
Give a 90 or 100mm lens another shot, I moved the motor and ring focus as far forward as I could and it worked perfectly. One other odd thing, if you have one of those silly drink umbrellas for small drinks, tape one open above the unit (as if your unit has a small umbrella) and that might fix your focus problem during bright daytime, give it a shot!
do you have any picture in your setup?
@@moonrisepictures7623 he is basically creating a lens hood for the lidar camera. Gaff tape would probably work just as good and be easier to find
Its not about a lens hood, its that these sensors have LUX limits. They essentially cant see the beam they are projecting if ambient light is too high. Also as it works in IR, IR would pass through most materials. Especially cocktail umbrellas.
Their data says "Light intensity above 70,000: Maximum 2.2 meters." And 100k lux is bright sunlight.
So it only works at short ranges in bright outdoor lighting conditions.
@@Nobody-Nowhere makes sense. So the permanent solution would be a more powerful unit or one that uses a different technology
@@PopoRamos IR is best for daylight, it just would need to be more powerful. The only issue iw found with IR is that it has accuracy of 1cm. Visible red lasers have accuracy of 1-2mm.
I have built a camera that uses visible spectrum laser, as its film/still so it wont matter the same as in a cinema camera as its not focusing when you take the photo.
But i needed the accuracy as its 4x5". I'm not sure how accurate these IR autofocus systems are. I haven't really found any info, can they handle f1.2 wide open?
Thanks for posting. Really glad to see you mention that it requires hard-stop cine lenses. I have a mix of both manual photo and cine and was hoping to find a solution that accommodates both. I wonder, can the focus motor be rotated to the lens' soft stop manually (like a manual user calibration mode - definitely not ideal)?
The hype on social got me but months later and after countless recalibrations, I was on a few shoots with a single subject and could not get it to focus no matter what. It was the third shoot where this happened, even after checking the night before and calibrating. Definitely not reliable enough for professional gigs but way too expensive for weekend shooting.
Woahhhhh this is dope!!!
👍🏼
What's the range for each model? How far the object/person can be from the LiDAR?
Do you have to use the Lidar if you have a camera that does auto focus?
This is advanced. How long can this motor battery last?
Good product review
Is the number of lenses you can program limited to 5?
I like ur top side handle...what brand n model was those?
Cannot use with matte box sadly..... BTW the DJI Lidar can be used without the gimbal, just need an extra cable.
Yeah. Is there a whole process for using it without the gimbal?
@@MarcosRochaTV No, you still need a gimbal to program it for each lens, after that you cant take it out and use it only with the camera.
@@MarcosRochaTV ua-cam.com/video/jZm9cVyXE5E/v-deo.html&ab_channel=SamHolland
Why cant you use it with a matt box?
@@poti732 Because it's on the way so the Lidar lens can't see.
Great video :) a question. When switching lenses, do you press the motor button once to pause it first? And then put on another lens, and press two times to change profile? Cant find info on correct way to change between lenses
take the battery out.
DJI has their “stand alone” LiDAR unit but it requires 73957291 cables and costs thousands when it’s all said and done, this is literally 1 piece with 0 cables 🤯
i need to see a comparison video before i pull the trigger, but for the cost, there is not much to complain here
@@PopoRamos yeah as far as I’m aware DJI actually has face detection and stuff in their module where this is relatively primitive just focusing on whatever is closest to the sensor
this has max range of 4m, DJI one has 14m max range and its much more advanced having multiple dots.. i think 64k dots.
how do you switch from lidarAF to MF while recording?
yo- so great channel. Marcos- ;)
Thanks!
Works with photography lenses?
he said that it only works with hard stop lenses, so yes, some photography lenses might work, others won't cause the focus ring spin indefinitely
what is the size of the camera you are using, S35 or FF (24mm x 35mm). Because if it does not work above 50mm on FF, it is pretty useless imo.
Looks like red komodo so S35. It's likely user error and cam be used based on how you mount the motor. (Might have to remount depending on the lens size and FL)
IR has 1cm focus accuracy as far as i know. This also has 4m max range, so using longer lenses would kind of be pointless unless you want super tight compositions.
can anything be done to spread the beam wider
I don't think so. It seems the LiDAR performs better when it has less things to detect.
@@MarcosRochaTV ok thanks, why I asked I had seen another video where hes basically saying the subject has to be center frame or else the focus will shift to the background. most times you wont frame your subject like that.
does it work on mft cameras?
yeah
This motor is such a pain in the ass. It does not want to focus correctly
ㅇㅇ
Where do I start? What a nightmare of a god awful product. If you want to flush about $300 down the toilet, do that instead of buying this piece of trash. Think about it. If you flush the money down the toilet, you can film it with your phone (which will actually focus) and you'll have that video for life. If you spend the money on this garbage, you'll have a paper weight with some decent packaging. I followed these steps in the video with my device and everything was fine except upon completion, it doesn't work. The video says to recalibrate it again if there is an issue. So I did, following the steps exactly as listed in this video. Nothing. When I can get something in focus, the motor does make a feeble attempt to keep it in focus I guess, but it fails pathetically. It doesn't matter if I move fast or slow, or if the subject moves fast or slow. It can't keep the focus assist card in focus which is stationary, taped on the wall, even if I step back at a snails pace. I mean what's the point? Just a useless piece of equipment. If you're looking to spend almost $300 to get pissed off and smash your head into a wall, consider this. Pay me $150 and I'll come smash your head into a wall for you and you can save about $150. Long story short is you get what you pay for. In this case, I paid $300 for a trash product. Don't make the same mistake as me.
@infinitoartista Parabéns 👏🏻👍