I use a flush cut off old grip cap to put between the shaft butt and swing weight scale to measure that gap for proper length of shaft to SW scale butt seat or you will come out too light after assembly. It is approximately .180” - .200” and does make a difference. Also, if I have a used grip the same as being used in the build, I weigh it to make sure it is within grip weight spec and split it with a razor knife and put it on the shaft for a closer SW dry fit. I then add about a half a gram of lead tape on the hosel to simulate my quick center and epoxy weight.
Quality swing weight scales already come with a shaft stopper on one side to accommodate for the butt of the grip. They will also accommodate the exact grip you are using. Nice to hear about alternative methods though. Thanks for watching.
When i set my clubs I aim for D2, Irons and woods. 1 length of masking tape is 1 gram so I counter balance using masking plus I like a thicker grip anyway. The opposite way I have really low swing weights at C5-C8 here I would use a lighter 38-40 gram grip weight. to gain 4-7 grams at the in the head. I try too avoid loading heavy the grip or the toe as this just passes a new problem on regarding the shaft flex.
There is always total weight that needs to be considered also. 2 clubs at D2 can feel totally different if the total weights are different and they often are.
Greg,,,,,,,,What is the best way to remove a hosel weight????? Also,,,,have you ever extended an Aluminum shaft from the '70's,,,,,any hints for that big OD and small ID. thx much!
The best way to remove a hosel weight is to apply heat and then try and get some movement from it using a skewer down the bore. If that fails, then a drill press is used. I haven’t extended an old shaft from the 70’s but sometimes you can build up the OD of your extension with masking tape.
Super informative and helpful for swing weight matching the set! What would your process be if you wanted the end swing weight to be D3 or D4 on that same set of Miuras?
Great video and very informative…one question, when you were swing weighting with the grips, you had the shaft going all the way to the end of the scale…however, wouldn’t the grip take up about 1/4” or so and the shaft not go all the way to the end? Or does it not matter since you did the same with all of them and it’s just relative?
The scale has a small stopper on it that is approximately 1/8 inch long which allows for the grip cap. So the shaft doesn’t actually go all the way to the end of the scale. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching. 😀
@@SydneyGolfTech Makes total sense…got it…when you start doing the rest of the set (hybrids, fairway woods, and driver) do they still go in a weight progression from club to club or is that not as important? For example, some guidance says 7g between each iron…when you jump from a 4 iron to a 5 wood, would that still hold true? Same between 5W, 3W, and Driver?
@@petegalindez9961 there’s always a weight progression, with the driver being the lightest head, but problems can occur when different brands are used as they are never the same weight. For example a Ping driver head is roughly 10g heavier than a TaylorMade or Callaway head.
May I ask, what swing weight do you recommend for 76 gram stiff graphite shafts? I am finding that I need to ad lots of weight to my irons..They are dry swing weighting at C8 to C9.. I had to ad lots of weight to get to D2.Do I need to play with D2 irons, or will C9 or D0 do the job? I have tried DG s300 D2 and they are simply too heavy for me.I crunch a driver 240 meters and 7 iron with s300 shaft 135m...your info would be appreciated..thanks.
@@nickpritchard7130 I’d say C9 would be absolutely fine. If you put too much weight in the heads, the head starts to feel heavy and the shaft will flex more than it’s supposed to. There’s no exact answer here but I’d be experimenting with C9 to start.
Thanks for your reply..I glued the irons yesterday and am aiming for D0.All irons should be around D 0 when finished..So I am quite optimistic..Many thanks for your quick reply and valuable info.Great Vid....kind regards Nick..
Great video, how would you go about reducing swing weight? Without changing shafts. Eg playing kbs 130x in irons and wedges and the vokeys feel way heavier than my t100 irons
There’s a couple of ways to reduce swing weight: 1. Shorter shaft length 2. Drill out some mass from the heads 3. Heavier grip 4. Add weight under grip or at butt end All of these methods have some negative ramifications such as increasing the total weight of the club, so unless you are willing to shorten the club, you can’t reduce swing weight easily.
@@SydneyGolfTech I thought the same. My previous irons (ap2) were d7. My current t100 have $ taper 130x and must’ve had head weight removed to be d4 I assume? I was fitted by a company in Sydney which built them also
This is why a ferrule depth is set. Shafts should never be pushed all the way into the head when being installed. The ferrule should be set to a height to allow for a swing weight if one is eventually needed. Most people do not know this and don’t know where the ferrule should be set.
Still thinking....If the ferrule is not on all the way with the head when checking the swing weight, wouldn't the SW be lighter because the head isn't all the way on until you decide if it need a lead weight?
@@paulbatchelor9578 no manufacturer installs a shaft all the way in, nor do we. If anything, amateur club builders will install the shaft in too far and then it’s playing stiffer than it was designed to.
Hey mate-loving ur vids. Q. I’ve got a bit of an issue with a new set of irons I’ve just purchased. I was fitted for a set of T100s but during the fitting there was no attention to shaft length & I was just advised I’m standard length. When playing the first couple of rounds I’m having issues hitting the irons(everything is coming off the bottom) when I measured the 5iron it’s just over 37.5 inch. Which is short of standard & I think I need at least 38.5 or 39….is there anything that can be done to fix this? Do u know of any quality fitters in Brisbane that I could go see to help me?
There’s a number of ways to do it. Drilling out the heads can help a little. Weight sorting grips or putting weight in the butt end can also help. Thanks for watching.
I know this was an exercise, but he did weigh the grips with the plastic still on them. Not a major gaff, but I noticed. I also do not understand why he would bring all the clubs UP to the 5.6, unless thats what the player requested. Seems very high for a full set of irons swing weight.
@@khemheru1439 the tiny piece of plastic on the end of the grip makes no difference to the swing weight on an electronic scale, that’s how irrelevant it is. Also, we always bring swing weights up to the heaviest swing weight as there is no way to reduce swing weight other than drilling out heads. Adding weight to the butt end to try and reduce a swing weight is poor practice and we don’t do it.
Thanks for the info Greg. Quick few questions, should you aim for a certain swing weight? I rebuilt my Titleist 712 6 iron MB with no tip weights and went to the range with a roll of lead tape and after trial and error the end result was an 8g tip weight. Is that too much weight to add to the tip? The head weight was 257g not sure if the heads are typically lighter with Blades. Lastly I’ve read/heard you should maintain a 7g progression per iron, is there any particular reason for doing so? Thanks Greg, keep up the great work!
Great video Bayles and very interesting. What are the chances of you getting a set of custom fit irons swingweighted to this degree from the Mizuno, Titliest, Srixon and Pings of the golf world?? I'm not even going to bother asking about the other two (Taylormade and Callaway).
So this owner knew that he was going to be looking at SW higher than standard? What if they wanted lighter? Select a different head to begin with? Muira are heavier compared to other irons I've heard.
If you play over length, you should play over swing weight. D2 at 1/2 inch over is no good as the shaft will not flex the same as it would at D2 and standard length among other things.
Your logic and process is spot on. In my shop we also use the Auditor SW machine. I agree that over length clubs need to SW heavier but 3 points is a lot. I would have either drilled the heads or counter balanced the shafts to lower the SW.
I use a flush cut off old grip cap to put between the shaft butt and swing weight scale to measure that gap for proper length of shaft to SW scale butt seat or you will come out too light after assembly. It is approximately .180” - .200” and does make a difference. Also, if I have a used grip the same as being used in the build, I weigh it to make sure it is within grip weight spec and split it with a razor knife and put it on the shaft for a closer SW dry fit. I then add about a half a gram of lead tape on the hosel to simulate my quick center and epoxy weight.
Quality swing weight scales already come with a shaft stopper on one side to accommodate for the butt of the grip. They will also accommodate the exact grip you are using. Nice to hear about alternative methods though. Thanks for watching.
Excellent process and explanation. Thanks.
When i set my clubs I aim for D2, Irons and woods. 1 length of masking tape is 1 gram so I counter balance using masking plus I like a thicker grip anyway.
The opposite way I have really low swing weights at C5-C8 here I would use a lighter 38-40 gram grip weight. to gain 4-7 grams at the in the head.
I try too avoid loading heavy the grip or the toe as this just passes a new problem on regarding the shaft flex.
There is always total weight that needs to be considered also. 2 clubs at D2 can feel totally different if the total weights are different and they often are.
Greg,,,,,,,,What is the best way to remove a hosel weight????? Also,,,,have you ever extended an Aluminum shaft from the '70's,,,,,any hints for that big OD and small ID. thx much!
The best way to remove a hosel weight is to apply heat and then try and get some movement from it using a skewer down the bore. If that fails, then a drill press is used. I haven’t extended an old shaft from the 70’s but sometimes you can build up the OD of your extension with masking tape.
Super informative and helpful for swing weight matching the set!
What would your process be if you wanted the end swing weight to be D3 or D4 on that same set of Miuras?
He could counterbalance or drill out the hosel.
was this question ever answered? understood this gets the SW to be consistant, but what if you wanted consistant D4?
A couple of options. 1.Change grip model: every 5 g heavier = 1sw. 2.Reduce length: 1/4" = 1.5 sw.
Great video and very informative…one question, when you were swing weighting with the grips, you had the shaft going all the way to the end of the scale…however, wouldn’t the grip take up about 1/4” or so and the shaft not go all the way to the end? Or does it not matter since you did the same with all of them and it’s just relative?
The scale has a small stopper on it that is approximately 1/8 inch long which allows for the grip cap. So the shaft doesn’t actually go all the way to the end of the scale. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching. 😀
@@SydneyGolfTech Makes total sense…got it…when you start doing the rest of the set (hybrids, fairway woods, and driver) do they still go in a weight progression from club to club or is that not as important? For example, some guidance says 7g between each iron…when you jump from a 4 iron to a 5 wood, would that still hold true? Same between 5W, 3W, and Driver?
@@petegalindez9961 there’s always a weight progression, with the driver being the lightest head, but problems can occur when different brands are used as they are never the same weight. For example a Ping driver head is roughly 10g heavier than a TaylorMade or Callaway head.
May I ask, what swing weight do you recommend for 76 gram stiff graphite shafts? I am finding that I need to ad lots of weight to my irons..They are dry swing weighting at C8 to C9.. I had to ad lots of weight to get to D2.Do I need to play with D2 irons, or will C9 or D0 do the job? I have tried DG s300 D2 and they are simply too heavy for me.I crunch a driver 240 meters and 7 iron with s300 shaft 135m...your info would be appreciated..thanks.
@@nickpritchard7130 I’d say C9 would be absolutely fine. If you put too much weight in the heads, the head starts to feel heavy and the shaft will flex more than it’s supposed to. There’s no exact answer here but I’d be experimenting with C9 to start.
Thanks for your reply..I glued the irons yesterday and am aiming for D0.All irons should be around D 0 when finished..So I am quite optimistic..Many thanks for your quick reply and valuable info.Great Vid....kind regards Nick..
Great video, how would you go about reducing swing weight? Without changing shafts. Eg playing kbs 130x in irons and wedges and the vokeys feel way heavier than my t100 irons
There’s a couple of ways to reduce swing weight:
1. Shorter shaft length
2. Drill out some mass from the heads
3. Heavier grip
4. Add weight under grip or at butt end
All of these methods have some negative ramifications such as increasing the total weight of the club, so unless you are willing to shorten the club, you can’t reduce swing weight easily.
I’ve since used an online calculator and my irons are all d4 and wedges are e1 so think I’ll have to come see you for some swing weighting!
1.25” over standard in the irons
@@mast3rproductions D4 is very light for 1.25 over standard. They should be much heavier on the swing weight.
@@SydneyGolfTech I thought the same. My previous irons (ap2) were d7.
My current t100 have $ taper 130x and must’ve had head weight removed to be d4 I assume?
I was fitted by a company in Sydney which built them also
When you add the weight after installing the ferrule, is there not a gap between the head and ferrule??
This is why a ferrule depth is set. Shafts should never be pushed all the way into the head when being installed. The ferrule should be set to a height to allow for a swing weight if one is eventually needed. Most people do not know this and don’t know where the ferrule should be set.
@@SydneyGolfTech Thanks
Still thinking....If the ferrule is not on all the way with the head when checking the swing weight, wouldn't the SW be lighter because the head isn't all the way on until you decide if it need a lead weight?
@@paulbatchelor9578 no manufacturer installs a shaft all the way in, nor do we. If anything, amateur club builders will install the shaft in too far and then it’s playing stiffer than it was designed to.
Hi Greg, do you happen to MOI-match irons as an option also?
@@treqjosh I know how to do it, but rarely get asked to do it.
@@SydneyGolfTech thanks for getting back to me so quick and letting me know! Definitely good to know in the future.
Hey mate-loving ur vids. Q. I’ve got a bit of an issue with a new set of irons I’ve just purchased. I was fitted for a set of T100s but during the fitting there was no attention to shaft length & I was just advised I’m standard length. When playing the first couple of rounds I’m having issues hitting the irons(everything is coming off the bottom) when I measured the 5iron it’s just over 37.5 inch. Which is short of standard & I think I need at least 38.5 or 39….is there anything that can be done to fix this? Do u know of any quality fitters in Brisbane that I could go see to help me?
Hi Greg, using a standard swing weight machine is there a way of checking the dry swing weight (without the grip and glued head)
Yes. Most swing weight scales will include a function to do exactly that. I always dry swing weight before glue and grip are done.
What do you do if you want to lower the swing weights? Do you drill out weight from hosel?
There’s a number of ways to do it. Drilling out the heads can help a little. Weight sorting grips or putting weight in the butt end can also help. Thanks for watching.
great work mate
I know this was an exercise, but he did weigh the grips with the plastic still on them. Not a major gaff, but I noticed. I also do not understand why he would bring all the clubs UP to the 5.6, unless thats what the player requested. Seems very high for a full set of irons swing weight.
@@khemheru1439 the tiny piece of plastic on the end of the grip makes no difference to the swing weight on an electronic scale, that’s how irrelevant it is. Also, we always bring swing weights up to the heaviest swing weight as there is no way to reduce swing weight other than drilling out heads. Adding weight to the butt end to try and reduce a swing weight is poor practice and we don’t do it.
No sound on video 0:25
Thanks for the info Greg. Quick few questions, should you aim for a certain swing weight? I rebuilt my Titleist 712 6 iron MB with no tip weights and went to the range with a roll of lead tape and after trial and error the end result was an 8g tip weight. Is that too much weight to add to the tip? The head weight was 257g not sure if the heads are typically lighter with Blades. Lastly I’ve read/heard you should maintain a 7g progression per iron, is there any particular reason for doing so? Thanks Greg, keep up the great work!
2g is one swing weight c6 to c5 for example. The swing weight you choose is up to you.
Great video Bayles and very interesting. What are the chances of you getting a set of custom fit irons swingweighted to this degree from the Mizuno, Titliest, Srixon and Pings of the golf world?? I'm not even going to bother asking about the other two (Taylormade and Callaway).
Mizuno are within .5, the rest are generally within 1 swing weight. We try to be within .3.
So this owner knew that he was going to be looking at SW higher than standard? What if they wanted lighter? Select a different head to begin with? Muira are heavier compared to other irons I've heard.
If you play over length, you should play over swing weight. D2 at 1/2 inch over is no good as the shaft will not flex the same as it would at D2 and standard length among other things.
Your logic and process is spot on. In my shop we also use the Auditor SW machine. I agree that over length clubs need to SW heavier but 3 points is a lot. I would have either drilled the heads or counter balanced the shafts to lower the SW.
Good video
Greg, I have tried to watch this video 3 times on different occasions and days. This has no sound other than intro and outro. NO SOUND! WAZUP???
I’m not sure what’s happening with your device. I have just played the video and the sound is ok. 🤷♂️
SUPERB. !!!!
so good!!!
I was trying to explain that process. 😂