The lesson here is to find someone who KNOWS the building codes in your area to review your project before starting. Spending a couple of hundred dollars on the front end for knowledgeable advice can save you thousands of dollars and a lot of grief on the back end. Just because it makes sense to you doesn't mean that the building codes won't tear you a new one.
thats why i live where i dont have to follow silly codes just the practical ones like put rebar in your concrete , use heavy enough wire and breakers for the job, ect.
Reality is no such person exists. The codes are so numerous and projects have so many moving parts that only someone with a complete understanding of the whole project MIGHT catch this. GCs who build houses like this miss stuff like this all the time. It’s just a part of life.
I'd think about going ahead and trenching between the shop and the house, pipe it with the appropriate size PVC conduit, and run your temp power in it. That would also give you options in the future.
What the video doesn't show is I have already trenched from the pole to the house, installed the meter box and passed all inspections. It's the sanitary rule that isn't allowing that final connection.
@@TKCL like this comment says about running temp power from shop I would suggest investing in a propane backup generator installed next to the shop(less noise to hear in house) and add a auto switch panel between meter and main panel at the house but still keep the generator setup you have so if the propane one uses all it's fule you still have a source power.
Hard to justify those expensive whole house units when my cheapo generator will run everything, it's also dual fuel. We are very fortunate to live only a 1/4 mile from a sub station, so when power goes out, we are one of the first to get power back.
2-2-4-6 direct burial is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and handles up to 100 amps. I ran it thru the woods at my place for my shop using a stump grinder to cut the trench !
To avoid or at least reduce the flicker, you can do a number of things: -Reducing the recording frames per second, the FPS, of the camera. -Adjusting the shutter speed: At 60 Hz so you will need a frame rate of 30p with a shutter speed divisible by 60 - 1/60, 1/120, etc. At 50 Hz, you need 25 FPS at a shutter speed like 1/50 or 1/100. -Moving closer or farther from the light, and adjusting the aperture accordingly. -Increasing or decreasing the brightness of the lights. All of these steps allow for the frequency of the AC current powering the LED to match as closely as possible to the FPS of the camera. Those LEDs that run on drivers that switch the current to direct current, or DC, don’t have this problem. Some power supply drivers rectify the AC current from 50 or 60 Hz, increasing it up to 120 Hz, which becomes even hard for cameras to pick up, and fixes the problem. Are you saying you have LEDs on DC power supply and are still running into this problem? In that case, your LEDs might be hooked onto pulse width modulation (PWM) for dimming setups. With PWM, the LED again goes through periods of on and off cycles in the circuit, that can be captured by the camera as it records. SOURCE: ledlightinginfo.com/why-do-led-lights-flicker-on-video
Some good pointers, but one thing you missed is that gen set is probably not exactly on frequency with 60 Hz power. IOW, if it's running at 61 - 62 Hz (normal with a mechanical gov at part load) it may still cause the flickering lights.
I'm not a professional electrician nor generator specialist, so I can't comment on generator output frequency. I'm photographer who also shots videos occasionally, so I have experience / knowledge about lighting and how to prevent flickering during video shots. Added the link just to support / prove what I was going to say.
@@TKCL ... I did gen sets for 25 years, which is how I know about the frequency issue. I also dabbled in electronics and photography so know about shutter speed versus frame rate. Did video back around 1970.
Suggestion: your light switch in attic, they make one that have a "night light" feature so anyone can easily spot it. :D I'd run that big cable, gain you some power and allow you to continue to work effieciently on your build, a/c operating to condition your home too!
that's only useful if you place the attic light switch outside the attic! once you've opened the attic stairs and climbed up to turn the lights on it's fully pointless to also have a pilot lamp switch. 🤣 if you cannot then tell if the attic lights are on or off, you have more issues, like being 100% blind or dumb. always use a pilot lamp switch if it's located outside the attic/crawlspace. even then they do burn out. you can also wire them backwards so they're lit when switched off if in a crawlspace or attic(debatable now days with the electronic garbage plaquing the markets). **the old neon bulb models worked that way, wired backwards, they'd light up when power off and make a night light/switch locator in the dark. some of us still walk around in the dark nd use out hands and fete to know where we are, we don't consider it "prepping/prepper", it's naturally being ready for the failures of power/lighting..
I'll be accessing the attic via stairs from the living room that I'll build eventually. I've seen those night light switches, they could definitely be useful in certain situations.
There are also faceplates with an led bulb built in to light the outlet or switch and provide night light features. So you don't need a special backlit switch.
Reading the building code in the beginning of a project helps prevent issues. Most counties have a copy of the building code available, or online, for reference. Putting up a few temporary poles from the powered build and running an overhead line to feed you home panel will keep you going. Quick, simple, and easy with no trenching required.
Most communities rely on the standard code (that is all we have here in Flagstaff), but nuances about what must be in place when are typically local. Talking with an inspector ahead of time will quickly bring up the most common unwanted surprises.
From the couch it seems odd to require sanitary be operational before getting power, power during construction being a desired thing and all. It does make perfect sense though to prevent dumb people from moving into a space early and making a nasty mess of things. Sometimes you know what you don't know, some times you don't.
@@stevedixon921 On sanitary: The purpose is to prevent occupancy before completion and in most locations, outhouses are not allowed, though porta-johns are allowed/required during construction. Codes are for the not only the safety of owners but future owners.
I'd consider trenching in some 2/2/2/4 SER in conduit, then once you get real power, pull the 2/2/2/4 out and sell it. You'd have 100A service, no worries about running over it, and when you're done, you'll have conduit for internet, alarm, or whatever between the house and the shop.
Hi Andrew, the inspector was nice to give you some options for temporary electric to the house so you will be able to move forward. The house looks beautiful and thanks for the lighted tour. Merry Christmas. 🎄🎁
Oh boy you are correct... A couple of days checking two states and no one had any. Got very lucky and caught the Lowe's delivery truck dropping a spool off. I got my 125ft!
Another option might be to run the power from the shop with a large enough wire so that when the home is finished you can remove the service from the shop and feed the power from the house back to the shop. This would save you another meter cost.
Or, with 200 Amp service to the shop, just run power to the house. That depends on the power demands of the house though. I'd NEVER have 2 meters going to my place.
@@TKCL Do a load calculation. Also the tools aren't running all of the time and probably only a single item running. Most people couldn't afford 200 amps running all of the time.
That's very true, but at times with future plans I could have multiple high demand 240v tools running at the same time. We are talking well over 100 amps there
@@TKCL back feed the power to the house from the generator at the shop... low noise and generator out of the weather. I have a shed roof on the side of my shop and do that now.
If you have trouble with flickering LEDs in future videos, try adjusting the shutter or frame rate. Lowering these often fixes the problem, since LEDs turn on and off very fast, and unlike your eyes, a fast shutter often catches the off part of the cycle. You don't need high frame or shutter speeds for most non-sports video (try setting frame rates 30 or 24 FPS, shutter at 1/30 or even slower).
@@TKCL Sounds like your generator wasn't running at 60hz. Mains power is quite steady and consistent with the frequency. Glad to see the problem is fixed, but you know what to do next time!
Doesn't apply here, but worth noting for future reference: if you are getting "see it with your eyes" flickering of that sort with fluorescent lights after a wiring change, turn it off, remove the tubes, and check the voltage. An open neutral or (in the case of 208V, connection to the "wild leg") will produce waves of light in the tubes and the ballast won't like it a bit.
@@TKCL I was thinking it was just the output wave form of the generator. Probably more of a square wave. Grid power confirms that. That is not best for some electronics and motors can run hot, so if you anticipate long-term power failures, you want to consider a power conditioner on the generator line in.
@@gregbatch Excellent point. I have never seen a small generator like that one that was approved for running electronics. When I got mine the manual specifically says not to run computers, TVs or other digital electronics off of it without a power conditioner. May also be worth noting that you need to connect your generator frame to your house ground rod. That ground thing may or may not affect the flicker of the lights.
Man, I'm SO excited for you guys while also a little envious!! One question (and I don't know if you may have already addressed it so forgive me if you have): Is there a particular reason your Laundry Room switches are behind the door? Just curious if there was a door swing change or something. Awesome work, Andrew! Hope you all had a Merry Christmas.
I'm sticking with you ..I have watched every vlog for 18 months ..Merry Christmas everyone, keep safe and well, best wishes from the North Norfolk coast UK Andrew it's a small hic up with the power it will be sorted ❤
I would definitely recommend running Pvc from your shop to your house and doing a full 100 amp service from your garage that will only have one utility bill. You would have to check on what you're allowed they might not consider that a temporary power source though. Check with any local electrical contractor they should have the knowledge to get you through
The flicker from your lights could be because you were running off of the generator. They don't always put out exactly 60 hertz and if you're filming at 30 or 60 fps and the electric is running at 59 or maybe 61 hertz I could see that causing a problem. I'm far from being an electronics expert though.
@@TKCL Fun fact in the UK your wall sockets are 100% illegal due to electric shock risk.... even the plus are illegal too.... Here we have 3 pin plug/sockets the large Earth pin opens the Live/Neutral holes and the plug has plastic covering half the Live/Neutral pin so when the earth pin goes in it`s still not live aka you can not touch live parts...
Kind of right, except grid frequency is also not spot on 60Hz it can vary. Not so much and fast as generator power, but still. In the long run average frequency will be adjusted to 60Hz on the grid, but any random moment it might be something else near 60Hz. You can try to avoid flicker with camera settings (also changing to flicker free lights) slower shutter speed should be better for flicker, but it means more motion blur. Depending settings, camera can do this also automaticly or even accidently depending light conditions.
@@kylereese4822 You're suggesting he spend $20-40K for a solar install instead of $200 for a long extension cable to the work shop? There's nothing cheap about solar power installs.
Try being in Cali... Virtually impossible... Make it ridiculously difficult to buy land and build your dream... Like as if on purpose. This is my dream as well.. But law's... Land is half decent cheap. You're only buying from other land owners eho had same idea. And hit road blocks
Septic always first before stubbing foundation then Temp Power this helps builders ask Bob the builder he's at the bar 🍸 🙄👍they have the code books for states, county's and the USA you can take the test for building inspectors in your state the inspectors generally will help you with your questions before you build then no problems remember Asking Never hurts!
Septic permit, soil tests and sewage lines was the first things I completed. The tank and drain field I always knew I'd do later and the inspector was aware of that. I just didn't know the system had to be fully operational before getting power.
Your barn to house wire would make for an awesome welder cord later 😉. I would have to adjust the kelvin on those lights except in the kitchen. Looks awesome Andrew. Merry Christmas to you and Tiffany and Bullet
@@TKCL Try 3,000K lights. Above that they are too "blue" and below that they are soft but kind of dim. Seems 3,000K gives you a little bit of both temperatures in illumination. btw...great video. You must be very proud of this project.
Well that sucks but you found a way to keep moving forward, keep up the great job loving all of this content and thanks for not stringing it out too the end to tell what happen i hate that too.
Why not run power under ground. My power is run underground through a metal pipe. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs. 🎅🤶Good Luck Andrew. WOW, every room Green.
I have a temporary wire from the meter pedestal to my new post frame woodshop. I just did it a month ago or-so, and it costed a fortune for the 6 ga. wire! I had to search for the wire because the stores are out of everything! I also ran things off of a heavy (10 ga) extension cord, but needed 220v for my machines. There were no inspections at all in this area until the year we built - lucky us 😉
I am a electrician and have built two homes. One house has a large shop near the house something like what you have. I ran pertinent power to the shop and buss taped that 200 amp panel and ran underground permanent cable to the house, so just one meter. Also buy a inexpensive plug-in plug tester it will thoroughly test each outlet and be able to test GFIs. The inspector will use one when you get your final electrical inspection.
@@TKCL Take John Taylor's advice, I had build rural houses in the past for other's and had done underground services from the street back, with mid point meter cabinet/disconnects to feed a future shop and to feed the house, never a problem with inspector that was happy as long and you installed extra ground rods, more that required. The one house I had the power turn on before the house was even framed, we ran off the disconnects one GFI outlet building, and once the house was "weathered" I had the Panel hot and inspected with the rough-in. You can do the same with a 200 amp panel in the garage/barn you have, and either overhead to the barn, or underground to the pole.
Yeah sure, let me pay 10s of thousands of dollars for that. I've been building this house for months and this is only the second small hiccup I've ran into. I'm reading more codes and rules than most ever would. I'll gladly put that contractor money saved into my home or back in the bank.
Thanks for calling out those people that hide the gist of a video until the end. That annoys me too. I get tired of people squeezing a three minute video into 15 minutes. Hope things work out for you on your electrical thanks for the video.
I feel for you. Down where I am you can get a builders connection which is at a fixed charged rate. If you have a good one it'll give you between 60 to 100 amps at 240 until you've finished building then you go on to the standard grid rate. Not sure you could run everything at the same time but being frugal you can manage. There is a sorta time limit on a builders pole but it's in years not months.
All of that has to do with occupancy. Safe occupancy includes septic, proper wiring, driveway, and sometimes fire alarms. This all depends on local building codes. My county doesn't even have a building dept. Sometimes that is nice.
Looks great with some lights on! Sorry you had a bump in the road with getting power turned on, you are so smart to think of ways to work around this! Merry Christmas to you, Tiffany and Bullet 🎄🎁❤️
Don’t complain, in my neck of the woods, that propane tank has to be 50 ft from the houses, Just tossing it out, you can get a RV pedestal. Another you can get temp construction pedestal’s the handle 220 but cable is expensive. My neck of the woods, you can’t even pull the permit without septic.
You poor poor dude. I hate this for you. The septic is actually a sign of "permanent" residence I believe. I hate the hoops they make you jump though for electric. I went through it too... Temporary Power...yup but I understand the monthly fee thing. Seriously I would just get some burable 10/3 with ground. That will allow you to run a bunch...ain't too costly and you can always use that wire again for some other projects. Bury it a foot deep in some WOG pipe or something.
No fault of your own but there are a lot of things DIYers do not know. Running temp power would have to be trenched into the ground. They will not hook up temp power if the service wires are above ground. At the bare minimum they would require it to be in rigid conduit for it to stay above ground. But even that would be a long shot and most likely denied. Your electrician should have informed you about all of this. After all that is why you hire a licensed electrician. The electrician is not there to just wire the house but also let you know what you will have to do to get power to the house. Now the power company can install another pole to get the power to your house, everything still has to be code compliant. Right now you are a bit short of code compliance. FYI you could have turn on all the breakers in the main panel if all you were going to do was turn on the lights. No one ever uses the full 100 or 200 amps that enter the house. You would have to turn on every light and use every outlet to reach that limit. Plus if you added up all the breakers in your panel chances are you are way over what the service is that enters the house. Just how it is. 50A stove, 30A water heater, 30A dryer, 60A HVAC + 30A for outside unit. Right there you are already at 200A and that is not including lights or outlets. Math it hurts the brain!!
You know where you is 12-volt system in the house and generators and we gave up paying that kind of b******* in California long time ago you know you just run your generator for 23 hours a day plan to do your laundry taking showers and everything while you got the heater working and then shut it off and he's 12 V lights and we have a 12-volt TV
I sympathize with your prior ignorance and agree it is a bummer... but it is a self inflicted one friend... hopefully your video will give others a clue so they can avoid the same issues... +5 bonus kewl points for biting the bullet and telling your story
In my country what we have is a temporary construction site power conection before the proper house conection contract is done... Those temporary contracts are a bit more expensive on taxes but is the solution here... On the other side...some people do some temporary and ilegal connections and bet on luck...and solve the problem for themsleves... 😉
It sounds dumb that you have a temp power pole and could run underground cable and haven't in that long of a time span. You can get 110 from 220. Why waste fuel for no reason.
Well, Andrew, you did everything you were required and above it - according to the information and codes you were familiar with. Honestly, that first inspector should have given you that piece of info so that you could act accordingly, but at least you know all you've done is perfect and you have doable alternatives. An exciting moment when the lights went on:))) May the light of The Newborn Christ bring joy into your lives, good health and piece into your souls! Merry Christmas, or as we say here: Christ is born - Indeed He's born!!
U can turn on all breaker but one thing u are limited to 30 or 45amp or 4500watt just remember what u run thing off of it and keep track what amp does this used 2nd leds is affecting any camera or videos but cant see it IRL only camera can If i were u i would run ac window for temporary for cooling it far i would go for unite get maid power back on I hope you get power back when thing can get done Short cable from generator to power is good ideas plus get 5amp more back into it less stressing cable out
I think your inspector is full of s*it . Put in a Solar system 1200 watts of panels a 3000 watt inverter and as many batteries as you can afford. Temporary power is a major rip off in my area.
Okay in the first place they can't stop you from hooking a generator up to your house looks to me like you're in the country so you don't have to worry about sound ordinances. The whole purpose of the occupancy certificate which allows you to put power to your house is simply to force you to comply with all the codes on building your house this is why construction companies have large generators that they move on site inevitably these generators are hooked into the project electrical system and the power is run from the generators to the project's finished they don't have to ask permission to do it. As to your garage and running temporary power from the garage to the house I personally would suggest that instead of 100 amp service you put in a 200 amp service connection buried and conduit running from the house to the garage this way no matter what happens as long as one of your services are running you can back feed the other way. But in any case if you're going through the expense of buying the wire you really need to go ahead and buy the conduit and make it permanent connection with a cut off in between the extra expense is worth itas it allows you an emergency circuit between both buildings. At least that's my opinion
You really sound like your own worst enemy, not trying to be rude. But you are spending way to much time and energy on things that are simple. Focus your efforts on the things that need it. Good luck I wish you well, and thank you for sharing.
If you intend burying cable in the ground then you need to use armoured cable and cover with an approved marker tape, placed 12 inched above the cable. The steel armoured sheath is used as the earth core. You will need 3 core cable to provide 240 volts. 2 x 120v and 1 x neutral or 4 core if you are not using the sheath as the main earth.
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, our county wouldn't let us get power to our farm until we had a well and septic. I just wanted to have power to run equipment for our shop. We are working toward putting a house there but I needed power to the shop first.
So glad I don’t live is a tyrannical government dictated state! I never had to go through all that crap when I built my house. Government agents are great at making people spend money to comply with their dictates!
What states are you in? I want to be sure I never buy land there for a house! Utterly ridiculous government intrusion and unwarranted expensive nonsense....
Wow government laws don't seem to like solo people building over in America. I just been helping on a house build in the UK and as soon as the house was wind and water tight the power company fitted the meter and the cable we set underground was connected to the power source. And by the time the house is built we are hoping the solar panels will have paid for connection fee
Ask the building inspectorif he knows how to tell the difference between the front of a tree and the back of the tree in the woods? Tell him it's important to explain your septic system. Tell the inspector the septic system is marked on the backside of the trees with a pile of shit. No one goes in front of a tree to take a shit...
Soulda went solar. Never ever need to talk to power provider. Coulda put in a compost toilet. No septic tank needed. Sink tub water diverted to gardens.
Rent a ditch install the conduit you will use to power the home Just terminate it temporarily at the garage. Run cable and finish electrical when you are ready.
We had to run wire along the ground for temp power had the wire already so that was a plus but I did run it in conduit anyway along the ground for a little extra protection
The lesson here is to find someone who KNOWS the building codes in your area to review your project before starting. Spending a couple of hundred dollars on the front end for knowledgeable advice can save you thousands of dollars and a lot of grief on the back end. Just because it makes sense to you doesn't mean that the building codes won't tear you a new one.
thats why i live where i dont have to follow silly codes just the practical ones like put rebar in your concrete , use heavy enough wire and breakers for the job, ect.
Reality is no such person exists. The codes are so numerous and projects have so many moving parts that only someone with a complete understanding of the whole project MIGHT catch this.
GCs who build houses like this miss stuff like this all the time. It’s just a part of life.
I'd think about going ahead and trenching between the shop and the house, pipe it with the appropriate size PVC conduit, and run your temp power in it. That would also give you options in the future.
You are correct there, been thinking about that. At least I could power the shop in a outage situation via generator.
@@TKCL I would trench to a box, then branch to the garage. That way when you are ready for perm power, you just trench to the pole from the box....
What the video doesn't show is I have already trenched from the pole to the house, installed the meter box and passed all inspections. It's the sanitary rule that isn't allowing that final connection.
@@TKCL like this comment says about running temp power from shop I would suggest investing in a propane backup generator installed next to the shop(less noise to hear in house) and add a auto switch panel between meter and main panel at the house but still keep the generator setup you have so if the propane one uses all it's fule you still have a source power.
Hard to justify those expensive whole house units when my cheapo generator will run everything, it's also dual fuel. We are very fortunate to live only a 1/4 mile from a sub station, so when power goes out, we are one of the first to get power back.
You are a smart wise man, Andrew. GOD bless you and your wife.
Thank you for watching!
2-2-4-6 direct burial is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and handles up to 100 amps. I ran it thru the woods at my place for my shop using a stump grinder to cut the trench !
Yes when you can find it, I got very lucky yesterday! Two states of searching and I caught a delivery truck with some.
@@TKCL Better and easier than running a generator all the time, glad you found it !
To avoid or at least reduce the flicker, you can do a number of things:
-Reducing the recording frames per second, the FPS, of the camera.
-Adjusting the shutter speed: At 60 Hz so you will need a frame rate of 30p with a shutter speed divisible by 60 - 1/60, 1/120, etc. At 50 Hz, you need 25 FPS at a shutter speed like 1/50 or 1/100.
-Moving closer or farther from the light, and adjusting the aperture accordingly.
-Increasing or decreasing the brightness of the lights.
All of these steps allow for the frequency of the AC current powering the LED to match as closely as possible to the FPS of the camera.
Those LEDs that run on drivers that switch the current to direct current, or DC, don’t have this problem.
Some power supply drivers rectify the AC current from 50 or 60 Hz, increasing it up to 120 Hz, which becomes even hard for cameras to pick up, and fixes the problem.
Are you saying you have LEDs on DC power supply and are still running into this problem? In that case, your LEDs might be hooked onto pulse width modulation (PWM) for dimming setups.
With PWM, the LED again goes through periods of on and off cycles in the circuit, that can be captured by the camera as it records.
SOURCE:
ledlightinginfo.com/why-do-led-lights-flicker-on-video
Awesome information, I'm saving this! Thanks
Some good pointers, but one thing you missed is that gen set is probably not exactly on frequency with 60 Hz power. IOW, if it's running at 61 - 62 Hz (normal with a mechanical gov at part load) it may still cause the flickering lights.
I'm not a professional electrician nor generator specialist, so I can't comment on generator output frequency.
I'm photographer who also shots videos occasionally, so I have experience / knowledge about lighting and how to prevent flickering during video shots.
Added the link just to support / prove what I was going to say.
I ran the house off of my shops power and the flicker went away. It's definitely the generator.
@@TKCL ... I did gen sets for 25 years, which is how I know about the frequency issue. I also dabbled in electronics and photography so know about shutter speed versus frame rate. Did video back around 1970.
Suggestion: your light switch in attic, they make one that have a "night light" feature so anyone can easily spot it. :D I'd run that big cable, gain you some power and allow you to continue to work effieciently on your build, a/c operating to condition your home too!
that's only useful if you place the attic light switch outside the attic! once you've opened the attic stairs and climbed up to turn the lights on it's fully pointless to also have a pilot lamp switch. 🤣
if you cannot then tell if the attic lights are on or off, you have more issues, like being 100% blind or dumb. always use a pilot lamp switch if it's located outside the attic/crawlspace.
even then they do burn out. you can also wire them backwards so they're lit when switched off if in a crawlspace or attic(debatable now days with the electronic garbage plaquing the markets). **the old neon bulb models worked that way, wired backwards, they'd light up when power off and make a night light/switch locator in the dark.
some of us still walk around in the dark nd use out hands and fete to know where we are, we don't consider it "prepping/prepper", it's naturally being ready for the failures of power/lighting..
I'll be accessing the attic via stairs from the living room that I'll build eventually. I've seen those night light switches, they could definitely be useful in certain situations.
There are also faceplates with an led bulb built in to light the outlet or switch and provide night light features. So you don't need a special backlit switch.
@@PhilLesh69 that's what I was suggesting...glad you worded more clearer 👍
Reading the building code in the beginning of a project helps prevent issues. Most counties have a copy of the building code available, or online, for reference. Putting up a few temporary poles from the powered build and running an overhead line to feed you home panel will keep you going. Quick, simple, and easy with no trenching required.
But most likely they would want the wire under the ground so you don't have to see the ugly crap in there view.
@@1stFlyingeagle Thus the "temporary" power poles.
Most communities rely on the standard code (that is all we have here in Flagstaff), but nuances about what must be in place when are typically local. Talking with an inspector ahead of time will quickly bring up the most common unwanted surprises.
From the couch it seems odd to require sanitary be operational before getting power, power during construction being a desired thing and all. It does make perfect sense though to prevent dumb people from moving into a space early and making a nasty mess of things.
Sometimes you know what you don't know, some times you don't.
@@stevedixon921 On sanitary: The purpose is to prevent occupancy before completion and in most locations, outhouses are not allowed, though porta-johns are allowed/required during construction. Codes are for the not only the safety of owners but future owners.
I'd consider trenching in some 2/2/2/4 SER in conduit, then once you get real power, pull the 2/2/2/4 out and sell it. You'd have 100A service, no worries about running over it, and when you're done, you'll have conduit for internet, alarm, or whatever between the house and the shop.
This. And if you are going to power the barn from the house, then maybe just buy what you need to do that.
Won't use conduit, wire is a little over $200, the conduit is almost $700...Absolutely ridiculous!
Hi Andrew, the inspector was nice to give you some options for temporary electric to the house so you will be able to move forward. The house looks beautiful and thanks for the lighted tour. Merry Christmas. 🎄🎁
Yes he was! Merry Christmas!
You’re going to need all that heavy gauge wire for a pool pump someday anyway. You might as well own it already.
If he can find it
@@jason27swg and that’s the sad truth.
Oh boy you are correct... A couple of days checking two states and no one had any. Got very lucky and caught the Lowe's delivery truck dropping a spool off. I got my 125ft!
It’s a sad world when you have to have septic at the same time as electric because so many people promised to get the septic and never did
Another option might be to run the power from the shop with a large enough wire so that when the home is finished you can remove the service from the shop and feed the power from the house back to the shop. This would save you another meter cost.
Good idea.
Or, with 200 Amp service to the shop, just run power to the house. That depends on the power demands of the house though. I'd NEVER have 2 meters going to my place.
The house will be fine on power, it's the shop running multiple 240 volt tools, refrigerators, freezers, fans and everything else that I worry about.
@@TKCL Do a load calculation. Also the tools aren't running all of the time and probably only a single item running. Most people couldn't afford 200 amps running all of the time.
That's very true, but at times with future plans I could have multiple high demand 240v tools running at the same time. We are talking well over 100 amps there
You might want to do a permanent interconnection between the shop and house. Leave the breakers open unless needed in an emergency. Just an idea…
Been thinking about that, especially for outage situations.
@@TKCL does your panel have feed thru lugs
@@TKCL back feed the power to the house from the generator at the shop... low noise and generator out of the weather. I have a shed roof on the side of my shop and do that now.
That sounds like it would be another inspection nightmare to do properly
If you have trouble with flickering LEDs in future videos, try adjusting the shutter or frame rate. Lowering these often fixes the problem, since LEDs turn on and off very fast, and unlike your eyes, a fast shutter often catches the off part of the cycle. You don't need high frame or shutter speeds for most non-sports video (try setting frame rates 30 or 24 FPS, shutter at 1/30 or even slower).
I agree, but once I connected to grid power it went away.
@@TKCL Sounds like your generator wasn't running at 60hz. Mains power is quite steady and consistent with the frequency. Glad to see the problem is fixed, but you know what to do next time!
Doesn't apply here, but worth noting for future reference: if you are getting "see it with your eyes" flickering of that sort with fluorescent lights after a wiring change, turn it off, remove the tubes, and check the voltage. An open neutral or (in the case of 208V, connection to the "wild leg") will produce waves of light in the tubes and the ballast won't like it a bit.
@@TKCL I was thinking it was just the output wave form of the generator. Probably more of a square wave. Grid power confirms that. That is not best for some electronics and motors can run hot, so if you anticipate long-term power failures, you want to consider a power conditioner on the generator line in.
@@gregbatch Excellent point. I have never seen a small generator like that one that was approved for running electronics. When I got mine the manual specifically says not to run computers, TVs or other digital electronics off of it without a power conditioner. May also be worth noting that you need to connect your generator frame to your house ground rod. That ground thing may or may not affect the flicker of the lights.
Man, I'm SO excited for you guys while also a little envious!! One question (and I don't know if you may have already addressed it so forgive me if you have): Is there a particular reason your Laundry Room switches are behind the door? Just curious if there was a door swing change or something. Awesome work, Andrew! Hope you all had a Merry Christmas.
Yes we made a last minute door swing change due to fear of the door always hitting the washer and dryer.
I'm sticking with you ..I have watched every vlog for 18 months ..Merry Christmas everyone, keep safe and well, best wishes from the North Norfolk coast UK Andrew it's a small hic up with the power it will be sorted ❤
Thank you for the support and Merry Christmas!
I would definitely recommend running Pvc from your shop to your house and doing a full 100 amp service from your garage that will only have one utility bill. You would have to check on what you're allowed they might not consider that a temporary power source though. Check with any local electrical contractor they should have the knowledge to get you through
The flicker from your lights could be because you were running off of the generator. They don't always put out exactly 60 hertz and if you're filming at 30 or 60 fps and the electric is running at 59 or maybe 61 hertz I could see that causing a problem. I'm far from being an electronics expert though.
I think you are correct, I didn't notice much flicker yesterday when NOT being on generator power.
@@TKCL Fun fact in the UK your wall sockets are 100% illegal due to electric shock risk.... even the plus are illegal too.... Here we have 3 pin plug/sockets the large Earth pin opens the Live/Neutral holes and the plug has plastic covering half the Live/Neutral pin so when the earth pin goes in it`s still not live aka you can not touch live parts...
@@TKCL Why not go solar/battery ??
Kind of right, except grid frequency is also not spot on 60Hz it can vary. Not so much and fast as generator power, but still. In the long run average frequency will be adjusted to 60Hz on the grid, but any random moment it might be something else near 60Hz.
You can try to avoid flicker with camera settings (also changing to flicker free lights) slower shutter speed should be better for flicker, but it means more motion blur. Depending settings, camera can do this also automaticly or even accidently depending light conditions.
@@kylereese4822 You're suggesting he spend $20-40K for a solar install instead of $200 for a long extension cable to the work shop? There's nothing cheap about solar power installs.
Try being in Cali... Virtually impossible... Make it ridiculously difficult to buy land and build your dream... Like as if on purpose. This is my dream as well.. But law's... Land is half decent cheap. You're only buying from other land owners eho had same idea. And hit road blocks
Yep very true I'm up in northern California up by the Sierra mountains
Sad to hear that!
Look out Andrew! Another speed bump. Once again you came up with a way around the issue. Love all the lights.
Absolutely! Onwards and forward!
Septic always first before stubbing foundation then Temp Power this helps builders ask Bob the builder he's at the bar 🍸 🙄👍they have the code books for states, county's and the USA you can take the test for building inspectors in your state the inspectors generally will help you with your questions before you build then no problems remember Asking Never hurts!
Septic permit, soil tests and sewage lines was the first things I completed. The tank and drain field I always knew I'd do later and the inspector was aware of that. I just didn't know the system had to be fully operational before getting power.
Your barn to house wire would make for an awesome welder cord later 😉. I would have to adjust the kelvin on those lights except in the kitchen. Looks awesome Andrew. Merry Christmas to you and Tiffany and Bullet
We are already talking about toning the lights down in color.
@@TKCL Try 3,000K lights. Above that they are too "blue" and below that they are soft but kind of dim. Seems 3,000K gives you a little bit of both temperatures in illumination. btw...great video. You must be very proud of this project.
My lights go from 3k-5k, we find 3k a bit yellow for our tastes. Thanks for watching!
Well that sucks but you found a way to keep moving forward, keep up the great job loving all of this content and thanks for not stringing it out too the end to tell what happen i hate that too.
Outstanding step forward. The lights really show off your paint color. It is going to be looking great when your done.
Thanks for watching!
Why not run power under ground. My power is run underground through a metal pipe. Merry Christmas to you and the Mrs. 🎅🤶Good Luck Andrew. WOW, every room Green.
Permanent power will be ran underground, conduit is already installed. But I did not get permission for permanent power.
I have a temporary wire from the meter pedestal to my new post frame woodshop. I just did it a month ago or-so, and it costed a fortune for the 6 ga. wire! I had to search for the wire because the stores are out of everything! I also ran things off of a heavy (10 ga) extension cord, but needed 220v for my machines. There were no inspections at all in this area until the year we built - lucky us 😉
I feel you, finding supplies has been a nightmare.
I am a electrician and have built two homes. One house has a large shop near the house something like what you have. I ran pertinent power to the shop and buss taped that 200 amp panel and ran underground permanent cable to the house, so just one meter. Also buy a inexpensive plug-in plug tester it will thoroughly test each outlet and be able to test GFIs. The inspector will use one when you get your final electrical inspection.
Thanks for the tips!
@@TKCL Take John Taylor's advice, I had build rural houses in the past for other's and had done underground services from the street back, with mid point meter cabinet/disconnects to feed a future shop and to feed the house, never a problem with inspector that was happy as long and you installed extra ground rods, more that required.
The one house I had the power turn on before the house was even framed, we ran off the disconnects one GFI outlet building, and once the house was "weathered" I had the Panel hot and inspected with the rough-in. You can do the same with a 200 amp panel in the garage/barn you have, and either overhead to the barn, or underground to the pole.
Is there power to that well head and pressure tank area...what not just bury some pvc from the shop or the well head are????
I thought about tieing the well wire together from the house and shop, but it's 10/2, not 10/3 for the added neutral.
Yes sir Mr inspector I have septic. Show him a corn cob and 5 gallon bucket and smile! Merry Christmas
Lol!
This is not a milestone this is a setback, fire pit and beverage cheers man you got this. Merry Christmas and keep on keeping on.
Merry Christmas!
lol newbies :) this is why we hire a Contractor that understand local codes :)
Yeah sure, let me pay 10s of thousands of dollars for that. I've been building this house for months and this is only the second small hiccup I've ran into. I'm reading more codes and rules than most ever would. I'll gladly put that contractor money saved into my home or back in the bank.
Thanks for calling out those people that hide the gist of a video until the end. That annoys me too. I get tired of people squeezing a three minute video into 15 minutes. Hope things work out for you on your electrical thanks for the video.
Thank you for watching
I feel for you. Down where I am you can get a builders connection which is at a fixed charged rate. If you have a good one it'll give you between 60 to 100 amps at 240 until you've finished building then you go on to the standard grid rate. Not sure you could run everything at the same time but being frugal you can manage. There is a sorta time limit on a builders pole but it's in years not months.
60 amps of 240 is plenty to run hvac and a few tools.
Your awesome. No harm in asking your suppler. You will get a yes or no. If you don't ask you'll never know
All of that has to do with occupancy. Safe occupancy includes septic, proper wiring, driveway, and sometimes fire alarms. This all depends on local building codes.
My county doesn't even have a building dept. Sometimes that is nice.
I wish it was that way here. He knows we are not moving in early.
The house came along so much. I’ve been subscribed since 800 subs too
Thank you very much for the support!
Wow, Andrew! Major disappointment, but you took it in stride. It’s going to come together in time.
Thanks!
👍you're almost there Andrew just keep on doing what you're doing.
Absolutely! 👍
Have you thought about adding some solar panels to the roof, and when you finally get full electricity installed, it can be a backup source.
I've kicked it around, but electricity is very cheap here. Hard to justify those systems, especially with my backup generators.
What inspector is really trying to say is Where's the under the table payment. No? Then f you up with no power reasons.
As a new home builder in Texas I love these videos!
Thank you for watching, learning a lot building my first home. Sharing all my learnings good or bad with anyone that's curious.
HOWdy KELLEY's
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Looks great with some lights on! Sorry you had a bump in the road with getting power turned on, you are so smart to think of ways to work around this! Merry Christmas to you, Tiffany and Bullet 🎄🎁❤️
Merry Christmas!
Well done Andrew - really getting exciting!!
the flickering might bee from the gen
It definitely was, just found that out.
Don’t complain, in my neck of the woods, that propane tank has to be 50 ft from the houses,
Just tossing it out, you can get a RV pedestal. Another you can get temp construction pedestal’s the handle 220 but cable is expensive.
My neck of the woods, you can’t even pull the permit without septic.
You poor poor dude. I hate this for you. The septic is actually a sign of "permanent" residence I believe. I hate the hoops they make you jump though for electric. I went through it too...
Temporary Power...yup but I understand the monthly fee thing. Seriously I would just get some burable 10/3 with ground. That will allow you to run a bunch...ain't too costly and you can always use that wire again for some other projects. Bury it a foot deep in some WOG pipe or something.
Everyone clap your hands for LOCAL GOV!
You only own what they allow you to! You also get to continue paying for it to exist!
Thanks for getting straight to the point.
Can't stand watching 20 minutes of b*******.
No fault of your own but there are a lot of things DIYers do not know. Running temp power would have to be trenched into the ground. They will not hook up temp power if the service wires are above ground. At the bare minimum they would require it to be in rigid conduit for it to stay above ground. But even that would be a long shot and most likely denied. Your electrician should have informed you about all of this. After all that is why you hire a licensed electrician. The electrician is not there to just wire the house but also let you know what you will have to do to get power to the house. Now the power company can install another pole to get the power to your house, everything still has to be code compliant. Right now you are a bit short of code compliance.
FYI you could have turn on all the breakers in the main panel if all you were going to do was turn on the lights. No one ever uses the full 100 or 200 amps that enter the house. You would have to turn on every light and use every outlet to reach that limit. Plus if you added up all the breakers in your panel chances are you are way over what the service is that enters the house. Just how it is. 50A stove, 30A water heater, 30A dryer, 60A HVAC + 30A for outside unit. Right there you are already at 200A and that is not including lights or outlets. Math it hurts the brain!!
You know where you is 12-volt system in the house and generators and we gave up paying that kind of b******* in California long time ago you know you just run your generator for 23 hours a day plan to do your laundry taking showers and everything while you got the heater working and then shut it off and he's 12 V lights and we have a 12-volt TV
I sympathize with your prior ignorance and agree it is a bummer... but it is a self inflicted one friend... hopefully your video will give others a clue so they can avoid the same issues... +5 bonus kewl points for biting the bullet and telling your story
That gen will run the HVAC
Being only a 2 ton, yes it should.
In my country what we have is a temporary construction site power conection before the proper house conection contract is done...
Those temporary contracts are a bit more expensive on taxes but is the solution here...
On the other side...some people do some temporary and ilegal connections and bet on luck...and solve the problem for themsleves...
😉
It sounds dumb that you have a temp power pole and could run underground cable and haven't in that long of a time span. You can get 110 from 220. Why waste fuel for no reason.
Well, Andrew, you did everything you were required and above it - according to the information and codes you were familiar with. Honestly, that first inspector should have given you that piece of info so that you could act accordingly, but at least you know all you've done is perfect and you have doable alternatives. An exciting moment when the lights went on:))) May the light of The Newborn Christ bring joy into your lives, good health and piece into your souls! Merry Christmas, or as we say here: Christ is born - Indeed He's born!!
Thank you! Merry Christmas
Hey neighbor, if you’ve got 240 going to the well, you’ve cut your distance in half for your temp to your new crib
I thought that too, but you must have three conductor to provide that all important neutral for 120 volt.
15 minutes of yapping, so what failed the inspection? Correct the deficiencies and get re inspected and approved...
that is how the process works!
U can turn on all breaker but one thing u are limited to 30 or 45amp or 4500watt just remember what u run thing off of it and keep track what amp does this used
2nd leds is affecting any camera or videos but cant see it IRL only camera can
If i were u i would run ac window for temporary for cooling it far i would go for unite get maid power back on
I hope you get power back when thing can get done
Short cable from generator to power is good ideas plus get 5amp more back into it less stressing cable out
I think your inspector is full of s*it . Put in a Solar system 1200 watts of panels a 3000 watt inverter and as many batteries as you can afford. Temporary power is a major rip off in my area.
Guy get yourself a shovel and start digging, especially since you're freezing...
Okay in the first place they can't stop you from hooking a generator up to your house looks to me like you're in the country so you don't have to worry about sound ordinances. The whole purpose of the occupancy certificate which allows you to put power to your house is simply to force you to comply with all the codes on building your house this is why construction companies have large generators that they move on site inevitably these generators are hooked into the project electrical system and the power is run from the generators to the project's finished they don't have to ask permission to do it. As to your garage and running temporary power from the garage to the house I personally would suggest that instead of 100 amp service you put in a 200 amp service connection buried and conduit running from the house to the garage this way no matter what happens as long as one of your services are running you can back feed the other way. But in any case if you're going through the expense of buying the wire you really need to go ahead and buy the conduit and make it permanent connection with a cut off in between the extra expense is worth itas it allows you an emergency circuit between both buildings. At least that's my opinion
You really sound like your own worst enemy, not trying to be rude. But you are spending way to much time and energy on things that are simple. Focus your efforts on the things that need it. Good luck I wish you well, and thank you for sharing.
If you intend burying cable in the ground then you need to use armoured cable and cover with an approved marker tape, placed 12 inched above the cable. The steel armoured sheath is used as the earth core. You will need 3 core cable to provide 240 volts. 2 x 120v and 1 x neutral or 4 core if you are not using the sheath as the main earth.
yes septic is important to electrical power, nobody likes dirty shorts... (#tongueincheek) ;-)
Get yourself a few 16 foot 4x4 posts and string the temp line overhead with overhead rated wire. Much cheaper.
Typical American Officialdom. In the UK you can have power to the site before there is even a foundation.
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, our county wouldn't let us get power to our farm until we had a well and septic. I just wanted to have power to run equipment for our shop. We are working toward putting a house there but I needed power to the shop first.
I'm glad I have my own power.. and no permits . Do t want any of their "benefits" utilities etc..
So glad I don’t live is a tyrannical government dictated state! I never had to go through all that crap when I built my house. Government agents are great at making people spend money to comply with their dictates!
Solar panels bruuhhh 😎👍
Very expensive compared to grid electricity here.
Great job as always. Be proud mate. Merry Christmas Andrew, Tiffany and Bullitt.
Merry Christmas!
What states are you in?
I want to be sure I never buy land there for a house!
Utterly ridiculous government intrusion and unwarranted expensive nonsense....
Wow government laws don't seem to like solo people building over in America. I just been helping on a house build in the UK and as soon as the house was wind and water tight the power company fitted the meter and the cable we set underground was connected to the power source. And by the time the house is built we are hoping the solar panels will have paid for connection fee
If you take power from the mains. You won’t need their permission. Side benefit. You won’t need a meter either, and no bills.
YES, UNDERGROUND POWER IS SAFER, POLES DON'T BURN DOWN DURING FIRES, TORNADOS AND CYCLONES DON'T DAMAGE POLES
The electrical loss from those "Weeny wires" in the yard is costing you a fortune already. Run a conduit from the garage and be done with it.
Silent switches are heavenly. Why did you install noisemaker switches.
Run a trench and use underground wire. You won't regret a couple of hundred extra bucks. The wire will be protected and out of the way.
Ask the building inspectorif he knows how to tell the difference between the front of a tree and the back of the tree in the woods? Tell him it's important to explain your septic system. Tell the inspector the septic system is marked on the backside of the trees with a pile of shit. No one goes in front of a tree to take a shit...
Bury a line from your existing service. You dont have to worry about someone running over your temp service.
If the City doesn't like what you're Building the will needle you to make it more challenging.
That entire scenario is harmful to so many people! And again the state works in the conflict to the good of the people!
Soulda went solar. Never ever need to talk to power provider. Coulda put in a compost toilet. No septic tank needed. Sink tub water diverted to gardens.
No worries; just run an extension cord down the road, and plug it in. Problem solved. Cheers!
Rent a ditch install the conduit you will use to power the home Just terminate it temporarily at the garage. Run cable and finish electrical when you are ready.
OF COURSE, SEPTIC IS NEEDED TO HOOK UP ELECTRICITY TO YOUR HOUSE. PLUS YOU CAN'T BE "OVERWEIGHT" TO GET ELECTRICAL TURNED ON!
Everywhere I have done work, power and water connection is based on a septic system install that has passed....
Heck yeah bury a line between the garage and house you're gonna do it anyway to power the garage, solve 2 problems at once.
Solar, it can be a temp thing , it's live long thing, and you do it yourself.
We had to run wire along the ground for temp power had the wire already so that was a plus but I did run it in conduit anyway along the ground for a little extra protection
Get some like minded folks in local politics so you can pass the ordinances you want rather than have them pushed on you
Man where are you building ? I want to make sure to never go anywhere close to that place with ignorant rules like that
This is what happens when regulatory goes completely bozo.
Suppose they don’t want turds getting flush without proper septic 😆
dig a trench , get 1/2 inch pvc pipe , get a cord run it throw to the house underground, problem solved
House looks terrific all lit up!!
Temporary power was the first thing I was thinking. :-)
Another reason to maybe locate property where you can go off grid and no HOA .
Huh. Sucks. Me and my boys need to fly out and finish it up w/ya.
Regardless ,of temp. Or not It needs to be in pipe if run on surface , direct burial has to be 3 ft deep
My pole is by my shop so i put a 200 amp panel in my shop and trenched in a permanent 100 amp line to the house. one meter does it all.