What I find so refreshing about this video is how you are commenting on how difficult it is working of Pine. I primarily work with pine and laminated pine panels and Yes it is very difficult to work with if one doesn't know who to because it is so soft and even sanding you can lose a detail or make a gouge on the surface or indentation so quickly due to it being so soft. I have worked with all kinds of hardwoods and now being a retired hobbyist I have to cut costs pine is much cheaper than the nice hardwoods, but it is harder to work with IF ONE DON'T KNOW HOW to prevent all the damages that come with its low cost and long life on cutters and blade. NOTHING IS FREE one well pay one way or another. VERY GOOD VIDEO, THANKS
Mounting the routers at an angle (30 - 45deg) from the horizontal- - lets you see the bit shape more clearly - allows more to be stored (the ends do not conflict) - saves on both the magnets and the effort of mounting them. If you had mounted the magnets saved into the frame of both the base and the lid, you would have had secure closing without the unfortunate appearance of the types you used. There is a lot of space between the top of the routers and the join, plus all the space in the lid. If the routers protruded into the lid they would be more visible and easier to handle- and you would have saved space both and material.
Great video Frankenshop! Did something similar but didn't have magnets so I put the upright ( what would have been the chopping board in your video ) at a very small incline by putting a small 1/2 baton at the bottom behind the board. I guess this means the chopping board is probably about 100 degrees rather than 90 ( I haven't measured it ), the very slight angle meaning the bits wont slip out due to vibrations etc as they are housed at about 10 degrees rather than completely horizontal.. Hope this helps anyone without the magnet bits :)
The cabinet turned out well 🤙😁 and my god you werent lyin about havin a lot of router bits 😂 I will say this tho....... you cant blame the wood in most of this, you are the one who caused those mistakes. The wood split at the hinge because you chopped along the grain (the chisel here becomes a wedge, not an edge) and it split out the end on the next hinge because your tools are not sharp. I can tell by the surface your chisels left that they aint sharp. A tool that is not sharp requires more force to move that tool, more force equals less control, and less control means more mistakes; and even potential injury in some cases. The softer the wood, the sharper your tools have to be (this sounds the opposite to the way it should be, but its 100% true) I work with only hand tools, and if I have to work pine I sharpen my irons and chisels twice a day, sometimes its 3 to keep them cutting properly. With hardwoods like Sapele, Ash or Maple I can get away with 1 sharpening a day, a smoothing plane might still get 2 with hardwoods. A carver will strop their gouges/chisels every 10-20 mins to keep them working properly. When you touch the edge against your finger, the chisel should feel like it wants to cling to your skin..... nearly like its "sticky". A similar feeling will be had if you touch the edge against your fingernail, it should not slide on your nail, it should immediately stick to your nail 😁 if you can see light reflecting on the edge of your tool, then it no longer has an edge; when its sharp you cannot see the leading edge no matter how hard you try 😁 Aim to hone your cutting edges before your work, if you use chisels daily, then honing should also be a daily thing 😁 Please dont see this as me takin a dig at you, I am not........ I am trying to help is all, some people dont know what "sharp" truly is or what it feels like so I try to explain 😁
Agreed. I definitely prefer something like maple but my brain always seems to brow beat me into using cheaper materials when it is for shop fixtures and every time, I swear off using the cheap stuff and then I go right ahead and do it again and again. Thank you for checking out the video!
Router fanatic and you cut hinge mortises with a chisel ? Now that IS barbaric lol . Sorry couldn't resist the jab . Nice work, I respect anybody who takes the time to put together videos like this to help out those with less experience . And at the same time expose yourself to criticism from arm chair woodworkers . Live the dream !
I had and old timer help me with some pine cabinets and i had tear out he told me my chissel was not sharp. I showed it was and he said not sharpe enough. He borke out his hone stone and where it cut his tumb nail like butter. And we had no more tear outs anymore.
Admittedly, I'm terrible about sharpening regularly. I just recently got a good set of Japanese water stones and am planning on spending a half day going through every cutting tool I own and give them some love.
"Every router bit ever made" is a life goal -- don't tell my wife. :-D I seem to recall the magnets were purchased from eBay and were around $13 per 50. So, not free for sure.
Great build. And what an impressive bit collection! I'm more than slightly jealous! FYI, you used Lexan, not "Plexiglass". "Plexiglass" is one of many brands of sheet acrylic. And "Lexan" is one of many brand names sheet polycarbonate. Also - bonus note - you can cut Lexan with you table saw; just use a blade with at least 40 teeth (assuming a 10" table saw. More on a larger diameter blade).
"1/2" construction grade ply for the back, no need to use the expensive stuff"! No need to use 1/2"! I'm surprised you didnt make it out of the USA all time favourite - 2x4!
You'd want the back of the cabinet to be strong enough to support the plastic sheet. To your point, I suppose you could do with thinner material. And yes, 2x4s are widely used in the US although construction lumber like that is pretty low quality stuff.
Poplar is available where I live but it's pretty expensive -- almost 80% the cost of red oak (Poplar 1x6x8 = $26.50, Oak 1x6x8 = $33.15). What *is* relatively cheap around here is soft maple which a local lumberyard sells for around $2.30/board foot. Due to the availability and cost, I end up using quite a bit of maple.
Although I appreciate the soft music in the background, I would rather hear the sounds of tools in the video. Good job by the way. Also, the plastic cutting board would make a fine down draft table.
Thanks for the feedback. When I'm working in my shop, I'm typically streaming music from Pandora or Spotify in the background. Unfortunately, UA-cam makes it extremely difficult to post a video with commercial music in it without demonetizing the video and plastering it with advertisements. Because of that, I typically mute the soundtrack of the shop and do a voice-over with some royalty free background music when there's gaps in the voice action. I suppose I could get around the copyright music limitation by using headphones but I don't particularly like the sound of headphones and I have a fairly elaborate audio system (by shop standards) in my garage with multiple speakers, amplifiers, and a sub-woofer which I much prefer to listen to. Further, I personally hate advertisements. For every video I post, I actually purchase an audio license of any music used in the video. Yes, it means that every video costs me a few dollars in license fees from Fliktrax but I'd rather pay the money and be able to offer videos free of advertisements. The downdraft table idea is excellent, by the way!
I got to the point where I wanted to find the band and scream at them to stop. As a testament to the project I watched it through but I will argue that that music is absolutely unnecessary. I love music BTW and my shop is always full of sound. Very clever and I wish I’d seen it before I built my bit drawer and I will probably find myself a cutting board in the spring.
@@jonjames5561 I always have music playing when I'm working and the problem with shooting video with music in the background is that UA-cam identifies the music and does two things: 1) prevents the video creator from monitizing the video and 2) allows ads to run on your video (without your approval) and gives any revenue from those ads to the music rights holders. Now, for #1, I couldn't care less -- I don't post videos to UA-cam because I care about ad revenue. I have a full time job that I love and woodworking is a hobby that I do for enjoyment and the videos are just a way to share my hobby with others. It is #2, however, that I have an issue with. I personally go to great lengths to avoid advertising -- I absolutely hate it -- and so I'm loathe to have UA-cam run ads on videos that I create. In order to prevent the auto-generated ads, I have to mute the audio track from my shop and substitute... something. Sometimes I can get away with just narration but long stretches of complete silence in an video seem... disconcerting to me. It's for that reason that I will often include music as a "filler" to prevent the (awkward?) silence. Any music that appears in any video I've authored is paid for... I've actually purchased a license to use the music in the video, generally a few dollars per track. This allows me to prevent UA-cam from including ads in my videos and keeps those videos ad free (since I'm not enabling ads myself). From my limited time on UA-cam, I can see that the subject of included music seems to not bother large numbers of viewers and annoys the piss out of some. Some people seem to get irate when you don't include the normal sounds of tools in the shop. Some think the normal tool sounds are terrible in a video and should be muted. Like most everything in life, you'll never find a formula that appeals to absolutely everyone. Naturally, I don't want to deliberately annoy anyone (I'm doing this for fun, after all) so perhaps I just need to get over the "silence is painful" problem I have. Or switch to always using headphones for music. Or something else. Your feedback *is* appreciated and I'll give it some additional thought. I'm glad you found something useful in the video and my sincere apologies if the music was off-putting.
@@FrankenShop How very nice of you to take the time to respond in such a detailed way. This is your channel and you of course can do with it what you wish and no apologies are necessary. As far as the music is concerned, I have no problem with music at all and I understand the copyright issues only too well. I'll start looking around for a half decent improv musician for you. :)
Even at $40, that's considerably cheaper than any other option I could find for thick HDPE plastic sheet goods. Browse around online or on eBay and price HDPE plastic. For example, this listing (www.ebay.com/itm/113018431904) is only 12"x12" and comes to $47.87 with shipping. At the time I bought mine, it was $38 and shipping was free because I have Amazon Prime.
Wow, good eye! When my uncle died several years ago (he was a cabinet maker), I got quite a few of his router bits from my aunt and many of them were Oldham brand. The Oldham bits are just slighly paler yellow than the other slightly darker yellow bits I have. The darker yellow are HUHAO bits -- a Chinese tool company that, despite being produced in China, actually makes very good quality bits.
FrankenShop it’s probably better than just a good eye. I worked for Hickory carbide cutting tools from the mid to late 80s until the 90’s. We First made carbide tipped woodworking tools that were black Teflon coated, then they change the coating to yellow powder coat, then they change them to an anti-kickback style with yellow powder coat. Oldham saw wanted to offer a router bit line along with their line of sawblades so they started doing business with us. Shortly there after, Frank came down from New York or New Jersey wherever his homebase was, and invested quite a bit of money into our company and bought a bunch of new specialty machines to make more router bits. (For them). It was then just a couple of years later Oldham Saw Blades run by Frank Oldham bought my boss out and then eventually closed us down and moved Hickory Carbide to another city. I have a large selection of router bits that were trashed because the shanks were centerless ground to .003 or .004 undersized. Some are black Teflon coated, some are yellow powder coated, and some are anti-kickback yellow powder coated, and I also have some 3/8 diameter solid carbide that was thrown away because they weren’t sharp. So before the company closed I reground them and sharpened them too.
@@fruitinspector6111 Interesting story, thanks for sharing it although it's always a sad thing to see/hear about another great company being broken up/moved. I've been quite happy with the Oldham bits I have -- never had concerns about their quality or performance. It's clear my cabinetmaking uncle felt the same way.
FrankenShop I thought too long. Could have edited a lot of shortened a lot of the sequences to shorter just to speed the vid. Just my opinion as many others really liked it. As I liked the content and project itself. I just have a short attention span and thought it could have gone quicker. Also, I may be more advanced than some and I watch these videos more for quick ideas and maybe new techniques where others may like the in-depth. Only my two cents. 👍
The router bit can be purchased through a variety of sources. If you go to Aliexpress and search "Lock miter router bit", you'll find many. Here's one example: www.aliexpress.com/item/32870161052.html I find them on eBay with the same search terms. You can also purchase through Amazon, for example: www.amazon.com/Freud-Dia-Miter-Shank-99-034/dp/B0000225XP
@@FrankenShop I thought the cabinet was great, the new joint very good to see and interested me. The novel way to add magnets again at the back was brill, even more fantastic was the chopping board idea and way to get cheap plastic. Having seen all those I just didnt get the ugly blocks and horrible plastic so you could use those magnets. Fab overall and a subscribe and a like. Just didnt get the decision. Hindsight and all that thought thanks for a great video.
@@leehackett6643 I hear ya... but this is, after all, a shop fixture. If I were building a piece of fine furniture, I'd likely more carefully consider the aesthetics. That said and to your point, embedding magnets in the door and cabinet edge would certainly have been a more polished approach. :-) If you decide build something similar for your own shop, I'd always be interested in seeing it. The great thing about UA-cam is the ability to share and see all kinds of information and techniques so you can build upon those and improve them.
@@FrankenShop No my friend, Any Music behind commentary is annoying. I do not understand the need for people to do this i like to listen to the commentary of the person. Music is just distracting.
I'm so sorry but I can't help from laughing at watching you let in the hinge pockets and split wood everywhere I'm laughing as I type. One can't work this wood as they would oak or maple or walnut. it has a nasty character all its own.
7:22 I am barbarian And my father's company produce the most smooth and spectacular surface finish even on Aluminium and titanium Unsubscribed and that's so rude -_- U hve UA-cam chanel it's international audience
@@i.bcraftsman5977 In truth, I have absolutely no idea what you're on about. My comment in the video wasn't insulting anything. It was a joke about how I went to the effort to fill and sand nail holes, even though this is a cabinet designed for a woodshop, not a piece of fine furniture. Thus, I tried to make the cabinet look a little prettier "because I'm not a barbarian". Again, really no idea what you are talking about or where you perceived an insult out of that. If my joke didn't translate well and you took it as a personal slight, that's unfortunate.
@@FrankenShop look I'm watching more important vids now Can u plz delete my commnt or block me or whatever cuz u r really distracting me Sory bye (now I'm acting like a barbarian)
Thank you. Lots of great ideas here. I, too have had bits rust from being stored in wood pieces. The cutting board idea is genius.
What I find so refreshing about this video is how you are commenting on how difficult it is working of Pine. I primarily work with pine and laminated pine panels and Yes it is very difficult to work with if one doesn't know who to because it is so soft and even sanding you can lose a detail or make a gouge on the surface or indentation so quickly due to it being so soft. I have worked with all kinds of hardwoods and now being a retired hobbyist I have to cut costs pine is much cheaper than the nice hardwoods, but it is harder to work with IF ONE DON'T KNOW HOW to prevent all the damages that come with its low cost and long life on cutters and blade. NOTHING IS FREE one well pay one way or another. VERY GOOD VIDEO, THANKS
Mounting the routers at an angle (30 - 45deg) from the horizontal-
- lets you see the bit shape more clearly
- allows more to be stored (the ends do not conflict)
- saves on both the magnets and the effort of mounting them.
If you had mounted the magnets saved into the frame of both the base and the lid, you would have had secure closing without the unfortunate appearance of the types you used.
There is a lot of space between the top of the routers and the join, plus all the space in the lid. If the routers protruded into the lid they would be more visible and easier to handle- and you would have saved space both and material.
The very best one yet, well done. Stewart, south west Australia.
Great video Frankenshop! Did something similar but didn't have magnets so I put the upright ( what would have been the chopping board in your video ) at a very small incline by putting a small 1/2 baton at the bottom behind the board. I guess this means the chopping board is probably about 100 degrees rather than 90 ( I haven't measured it ), the very slight angle meaning the bits wont slip out due to vibrations etc as they are housed at about 10 degrees rather than completely horizontal.. Hope this helps anyone without the magnet bits :)
Great idea!
yah there called "Vix Bits" they have been around for many years and yes they are a must for installing hinges.
Genius idea using the cutting board.. it looks ace!
Thank you!
The cabinet turned out well 🤙😁 and my god you werent lyin about havin a lot of router bits 😂
I will say this tho....... you cant blame the wood in most of this, you are the one who caused those mistakes. The wood split at the hinge because you chopped along the grain (the chisel here becomes a wedge, not an edge) and it split out the end on the next hinge because your tools are not sharp. I can tell by the surface your chisels left that they aint sharp. A tool that is not sharp requires more force to move that tool, more force equals less control, and less control means more mistakes; and even potential injury in some cases. The softer the wood, the sharper your tools have to be (this sounds the opposite to the way it should be, but its 100% true) I work with only hand tools, and if I have to work pine I sharpen my irons and chisels twice a day, sometimes its 3 to keep them cutting properly. With hardwoods like Sapele, Ash or Maple I can get away with 1 sharpening a day, a smoothing plane might still get 2 with hardwoods. A carver will strop their gouges/chisels every 10-20 mins to keep them working properly.
When you touch the edge against your finger, the chisel should feel like it wants to cling to your skin..... nearly like its "sticky". A similar feeling will be had if you touch the edge against your fingernail, it should not slide on your nail, it should immediately stick to your nail 😁 if you can see light reflecting on the edge of your tool, then it no longer has an edge; when its sharp you cannot see the leading edge no matter how hard you try 😁
Aim to hone your cutting edges before your work, if you use chisels daily, then honing should also be a daily thing 😁
Please dont see this as me takin a dig at you, I am not........ I am trying to help is all, some people dont know what "sharp" truly
is or what it feels like so I try to explain 😁
Thank you for the feedback!
Wow, that is awesome. Thanks for sharing. I love routers. So handy
Excelente el trabajo y los bits del enrutador,muy buen gusto para elegirlos,felicitaciones.
thanks brother! nice to see this process and satisfying result :)
13mm drill bit. Excellent. I would not have thought of that.
I like to use a trim router to cut the recesses for butt hinges. Much quicker & neater than doing it by hand, especially when you have a lot to do.
I've watched this a couple of times, and I pick up another tip or trick every time. Thanks.
Wow, thank you for the kind words and glad you found the content interesting!
For the hinges "problem in pine", just clamp a backer board against the back of the pine first, before you start chiselling. Nice job by the way.
great turn out nice cabinet , a little time consuming, but at the end it wuz worth it, thanx 4 sharing God Bless
I’ve always had same issue with pine no backer always need in tear out thanks for taking the time to pst!👍
Agreed. I definitely prefer something like maple but my brain always seems to brow beat me into using cheaper materials when it is for shop fixtures and every time, I swear off using the cheap stuff and then I go right ahead and do it again and again. Thank you for checking out the video!
Thank you Frank, I to learnt a lot, nice one, glad to see you have enough holes for yet more router bitsss!!
I wonder why you didn’t utilize all these bits you mentioned such as dados on the table saw, chiseling mortises for hinges etc.
Router fanatic and you cut hinge mortises with a chisel ? Now that IS barbaric lol . Sorry couldn't resist the jab . Nice work, I respect anybody who takes the time to put together videos like this to help out those with less experience . And at the same time expose yourself to criticism from arm chair woodworkers . Live the dream !
I shall hang my head in shame, lol. Sometimes setting up a router jig takes longer than a quick job with a hand tool. I still love my routers though!
That’s a sick table
With pine I've found to keep a good supply of super glue to fix little breaks / tear out.
That's excellent advice! I rarely use superglue but it makes sense to have it on hand.
Thanks. Many useful tips and techniques I would not have thought of.
Thank you for the kind feedback and for checking out the video!
I wonder if you could use a router bit in the drill press to avoid the "giblets".
Hm, interesting, I've never tried a router bit at low speed like that but it's certainly a possibility.
Very quality and costly , router storage box, good super 👏👏👏
I had and old timer help me with some pine cabinets and i had tear out he told me my chissel was not sharp. I showed it was and he said not sharpe enough. He borke out his hone stone and where it cut his tumb nail like butter. And we had no more tear outs anymore.
Admittedly, I'm terrible about sharpening regularly. I just recently got a good set of Japanese water stones and am planning on spending a half day going through every cutting tool I own and give them some love.
@@FrankenShop i enjoyed the video look forward to the next one.
Great idea.
I guess with every router bit ever made...you weren't worried about the cost of all those magnets! lol
"Every router bit ever made" is a life goal -- don't tell my wife. :-D I seem to recall the magnets were purchased from eBay and were around $13 per 50. So, not free for sure.
Great build. And what an impressive bit collection! I'm more than slightly jealous!
FYI, you used Lexan, not "Plexiglass". "Plexiglass" is one of many brands of sheet acrylic. And "Lexan" is one of many brand names sheet polycarbonate. Also - bonus note - you can cut Lexan with you table saw; just use a blade with at least 40 teeth (assuming a 10" table saw. More on a larger diameter blade).
Good to know, thank you!
Wow, impressive
"you know, we're not Barbarians" lol
Awesome I really like the cutting board idea I'm thinking about doing same with drill bits
I think that's a great idea and as a bonus, you'll already have the correctly sized bits for each hole you need to drill. :-)
Thank you for the tip, I'll replicate here... did you shared a video when you make your table?
It's amazing!
Impressive! Great result!
Thank you!
"1/2" construction grade ply for the back, no need to use the expensive stuff"!
No need to use 1/2"!
I'm surprised you didnt make it out of the USA all time favourite - 2x4!
You'd want the back of the cabinet to be strong enough to support the plastic sheet. To your point, I suppose you could do with thinner material. And yes, 2x4s are widely used in the US although construction lumber like that is pretty low quality stuff.
Very good video, I really liked your strawberry organizer, the magnet system is a very good idea, you have a new subscriber, greetings from Spain.
Were the pin nails necessary? I'm kind of new to woodworking, this is a legitimate question, not a criticism.
Not at all, just reduces clamping requirements while waiting for the glue to dry.
Nice job!
Thank you! I really enjoyed your lathe series!
All your bits look verry clean and new. Did you use them or do you only display them? If they are used, how do you get them so clean again?
Sorry I missed your comment. I buy lots of bits and sometimes I don't even have a project in mind for them. It's an addition, I know. ;-)
Great video, entertaining and some good ideas.
Thank you, I appreciate your feedback!
poplar is good cost about same as top grade pine
Poplar is available where I live but it's pretty expensive -- almost 80% the cost of red oak (Poplar 1x6x8 = $26.50, Oak 1x6x8 = $33.15). What *is* relatively cheap around here is soft maple which a local lumberyard sells for around $2.30/board foot. Due to the availability and cost, I end up using quite a bit of maple.
@@FrankenShop WOW Poplar is $2 a board foot around here (central Ohio)
Although I appreciate the soft music in the background, I would rather hear the sounds of tools in the video. Good job by the way.
Also, the plastic cutting board would make a fine down draft table.
Thanks for the feedback. When I'm working in my shop, I'm typically streaming music from Pandora or Spotify in the background. Unfortunately, UA-cam makes it extremely difficult to post a video with commercial music in it without demonetizing the video and plastering it with advertisements. Because of that, I typically mute the soundtrack of the shop and do a voice-over with some royalty free background music when there's gaps in the voice action. I suppose I could get around the copyright music limitation by using headphones but I don't particularly like the sound of headphones and I have a fairly elaborate audio system (by shop standards) in my garage with multiple speakers, amplifiers, and a sub-woofer which I much prefer to listen to. Further, I personally hate advertisements. For every video I post, I actually purchase an audio license of any music used in the video. Yes, it means that every video costs me a few dollars in license fees from Fliktrax but I'd rather pay the money and be able to offer videos free of advertisements.
The downdraft table idea is excellent, by the way!
I got to the point where I wanted to find the band and scream at them to stop. As a testament to the project I watched it through but I will argue that that music is absolutely unnecessary. I love music BTW and my shop is always full of sound. Very clever and I wish I’d seen it before I built my bit drawer and I will probably find myself a cutting board in the spring.
@@jonjames5561 I always have music playing when I'm working and the problem with shooting video with music in the background is that UA-cam identifies the music and does two things: 1) prevents the video creator from monitizing the video and 2) allows ads to run on your video (without your approval) and gives any revenue from those ads to the music rights holders. Now, for #1, I couldn't care less -- I don't post videos to UA-cam because I care about ad revenue. I have a full time job that I love and woodworking is a hobby that I do for enjoyment and the videos are just a way to share my hobby with others. It is #2, however, that I have an issue with. I personally go to great lengths to avoid advertising -- I absolutely hate it -- and so I'm loathe to have UA-cam run ads on videos that I create. In order to prevent the auto-generated ads, I have to mute the audio track from my shop and substitute... something. Sometimes I can get away with just narration but long stretches of complete silence in an video seem... disconcerting to me. It's for that reason that I will often include music as a "filler" to prevent the (awkward?) silence. Any music that appears in any video I've authored is paid for... I've actually purchased a license to use the music in the video, generally a few dollars per track. This allows me to prevent UA-cam from including ads in my videos and keeps those videos ad free (since I'm not enabling ads myself).
From my limited time on UA-cam, I can see that the subject of included music seems to not bother large numbers of viewers and annoys the piss out of some. Some people seem to get irate when you don't include the normal sounds of tools in the shop. Some think the normal tool sounds are terrible in a video and should be muted. Like most everything in life, you'll never find a formula that appeals to absolutely everyone. Naturally, I don't want to deliberately annoy anyone (I'm doing this for fun, after all) so perhaps I just need to get over the "silence is painful" problem I have. Or switch to always using headphones for music. Or something else. Your feedback *is* appreciated and I'll give it some additional thought.
I'm glad you found something useful in the video and my sincere apologies if the music was off-putting.
@@FrankenShop How very nice of you to take the time to respond in such a detailed way. This is your channel and you of course can do with it what you wish and no apologies are necessary. As far as the music is concerned, I have no problem with music at all and I understand the copyright issues only too well. I'll start looking around for a half decent improv musician for you. :)
Very good project
Thank you!
finísimo buena cantidad de bit y un buen trabajo en madera
Gracias! Espero que el video haya sido interesante!
How is ihat you call the cutting board cheap? It is $40 on Amazon.
Even at $40, that's considerably cheaper than any other option I could find for thick HDPE plastic sheet goods. Browse around online or on eBay and price HDPE plastic. For example, this listing (www.ebay.com/itm/113018431904) is only 12"x12" and comes to $47.87 with shipping.
At the time I bought mine, it was $38 and shipping was free because I have Amazon Prime.
Are all of those yellow bits Oldham brand, which used to be Hickory carbide cutting tools of North Carolina?
Wow, good eye! When my uncle died several years ago (he was a cabinet maker), I got quite a few of his router bits from my aunt and many of them were Oldham brand. The Oldham bits are just slighly paler yellow than the other slightly darker yellow bits I have. The darker yellow are HUHAO bits -- a Chinese tool company that, despite being produced in China, actually makes very good quality bits.
FrankenShop it’s probably better than just a good eye. I worked for Hickory carbide cutting tools from the mid to late 80s until the 90’s. We First made carbide tipped woodworking tools that were black Teflon coated, then they change the coating to yellow powder coat, then they change them to an anti-kickback style with yellow powder coat. Oldham saw wanted to offer a router bit line along with their line of sawblades so they started doing business with us. Shortly there after, Frank came down from New York or New Jersey wherever his homebase was, and invested quite a bit of money into our company and bought a bunch of new specialty machines to make more router bits. (For them). It was then just a couple of years later Oldham Saw Blades run by Frank Oldham bought my boss out and then eventually closed us down and moved Hickory Carbide to another city.
I have a large selection of router bits that were trashed because the shanks were centerless ground to .003 or .004 undersized. Some are black Teflon coated, some are yellow powder coated, and some are anti-kickback yellow powder coated, and I also have some 3/8 diameter solid carbide that was thrown away because they weren’t sharp. So before the company closed I reground them and sharpened them too.
@@fruitinspector6111 Interesting story, thanks for sharing it although it's always a sad thing to see/hear about another great company being broken up/moved. I've been quite happy with the Oldham bits I have -- never had concerns about their quality or performance. It's clear my cabinetmaking uncle felt the same way.
Great job !! Love it !!
Thank you!
Great video. Thanks. Subscribed!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
WHY don’t I look at video length🙄
Are you saying the video was too long? Or too short?
FrankenShop I thought too long. Could have edited a lot of shortened a lot of the sequences to shorter just to speed the vid. Just my opinion as many others really liked it. As I liked the content and project itself. I just have a short attention span and thought it could have gone quicker. Also, I may be more advanced than some and I watch these videos more for quick ideas and maybe new techniques where others may like the in-depth. Only my two cents. 👍
@@MASS1866 Thank you for your feedback!
nice work
I agree about the router 😁
I like how you blame every single mistake on the "white pine"... jeez, just say you made a mistake.
lol, have a lovely day!
Ufff Beatiful 👏🏻
Link to locking miter router bit please. After all, we’re not barbarians. Good video, thanks.
The router bit can be purchased through a variety of sources. If you go to Aliexpress and search "Lock miter router bit", you'll find many. Here's one example: www.aliexpress.com/item/32870161052.html
I find them on eBay with the same search terms. You can also purchase through Amazon, for example: www.amazon.com/Freud-Dia-Miter-Shank-99-034/dp/B0000225XP
Inserts 3,000 magnets in back to hold bits, then 2 ugly plastic ones on the visible side for the lid......
Visible magnets are sexy. Don't judge.
@@FrankenShop I thought the cabinet was great, the new joint very good to see and interested me. The novel way to add magnets again at the back was brill, even more fantastic was the chopping board idea and way to get cheap plastic. Having seen all those I just didnt get the ugly blocks and horrible plastic so you could use those magnets. Fab overall and a subscribe and a like. Just didnt get the decision. Hindsight and all that thought thanks for a great video.
@@leehackett6643 I hear ya... but this is, after all, a shop fixture. If I were building a piece of fine furniture, I'd likely more carefully consider the aesthetics. That said and to your point, embedding magnets in the door and cabinet edge would certainly have been a more polished approach. :-) If you decide build something similar for your own shop, I'd always be interested in seeing it. The great thing about UA-cam is the ability to share and see all kinds of information and techniques so you can build upon those and improve them.
I´ love it
Thank you!
Music is soooooooooo annoying nice project though.
Not down with the "chill lounge" flava, eh? Pity, it's a great music genre...
@@FrankenShop No my friend, Any Music behind commentary is annoying. I do not understand the need for people to do this i like to listen to the commentary of the person. Music is just distracting.
@@mkay6089 Fair enough, I'll keep that in mind for future videos. Thank you for the honest feedback!
We are not barbarians!! That's funny
YEAH MAGNETS, BITCH!
lol
!
Good job
I'm so sorry but I can't help from laughing at watching you let in the hinge pockets and split wood everywhere I'm laughing as I type. One can't work this wood as they would oak or maple or walnut. it has a nasty character all its own.
7:22 I am barbarian
And my father's company produce the most smooth and spectacular surface finish even on Aluminium and titanium
Unsubscribed and that's so rude -_-
U hve UA-cam chanel it's international audience
So long! And thanks for all the fish!
@@FrankenShop welcome 😒
@@i.bcraftsman5977 In truth, I have absolutely no idea what you're on about. My comment in the video wasn't insulting anything. It was a joke about how I went to the effort to fill and sand nail holes, even though this is a cabinet designed for a woodshop, not a piece of fine furniture. Thus, I tried to make the cabinet look a little prettier "because I'm not a barbarian".
Again, really no idea what you are talking about or where you perceived an insult out of that. If my joke didn't translate well and you took it as a personal slight, that's unfortunate.
👍
@@FrankenShop look I'm watching more important vids now
Can u plz delete my commnt or block me or whatever cuz u r really distracting me
Sory bye (now I'm acting like a barbarian)
If only you had a router bit to cut out those hinges
That made me chuckle, thanks.