Sabre 1,5cc diesel 1955 rebuild project
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- Опубліковано 18 лют 2012
- Today I like to show you my latest rebuild work.Its the DC Sabre 1,5cc. I bought him cheap on ebay in very bad condition.Nothing special,but DC was a interresting company.No other company survive so long on the model engine market.First the background.The DC engines had a very long history in England.Just after the war was the begin of a period of very succesful made and selling of mostly model diesel engines.The company had its roots till back in 1946.
The Davies-Charlton engineering firm make differen kinds of precision items.Hefin Davies got his very early start by Rolls Royce as a skilled toolmaker .He know very wel how to make precision parts.The range of his engines starts in 1946 ..The DC wildcat 5,3 cc diesel ,1947, DC 350,..and from 1950, the sweet littel Bambi till the Dart,Merlin and Spitfire to just name a few.Also was there a very sucessful time together with the Albon company. If I remember right,DC produced from 1948 till the end of 1982. But only this first 25 years was really succesful.The later period was only a strugel for survive and taking over of the company and restarts.Maeby because also the age of diesel engines had its best times.The golden D.C. age was between 1948 -1965.
But they leave a lot good memories behind for the british model engine world.
The Merlin,Sabre,Spitfire was also known as engines with bad conrods and wristpins.Like I found in my engine too,the rod is far to soft,and the wristpin not hardend.But most of other engines brands have some issues too, to worry about.Only the Mills are superb,.....but thats ofcourse a different class.
Thanks for interrest.Moore engines on my channel...you are welcome to suscribe! - Авто та транспорт
Like you say Peter, it's for the love of restoring an old broken engine into something that works and works well. A great pastime and hobby that is very rewarding.
Hi Peter,
I accidentally came by this video. I had not seen this one before. When I was young (8/9 years old) I had a Sabre in a Viper Profile Model. It used to haul it around quite nicely. Sometimes I would swap it into the Picador or Phantom that I used to fly with a DC Spitfire. I used to find the Spitfire a better starter. Both engines like Ether for starting. Here we have D1000 easy start fuel and they can be very quick starters on this fuel. I am a massive fan of all things DC and Davies Charlton. I believe that they had a direct effect on the popularity of model aircraft in the 50's and 60's then lead to the RC explosion in the 70's and 80's . The engines were economic and easy to use. They did vary in quality. The earlier Albon / Dc engines are very well made. The engines from the 60's and 70's a generally very good. There's some problems with Dav Cal engines from the 80's. Manufacturing methods changed and some parts were not hardened as they should be. The Dav Cal Darts often have problems with crankshafts.
I have been telling people the Sabre is probably one of the cheapest diesels engines available on eBay. Sometimes idiots have drilled out the mounting holes or had pliers on the head or the prop driver and they can look fairly horrible, but they are robust and often running is unaffected. Mostly I find them to be over compressed when they arrive from eBay sales. I bought one rather badly kept cosmetically poor Sabre Engine for £12 plus £3.90 post. I cleaned it, unstuck it and fueled it up and it went 3rd or 4th flick. It went really well. I think it might have been tuned and I have never seen a Sabre run so well. On a 7 x 6 prop it revved out very good. My point is that an engine for just over £15 with post is a bargain and one that works. Yes a gamble, but not a huge one. I'm glad you like your sabre.
I once had a DC Spitfire, 1cc. Same case as the Sabre, except for piston bore, from what I gathered, and blue head.
Ran decently for a used engine, but nothing spectacular to brag about.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks a lot! It was a lot surprises on the road to be a runner.Its not a expencive or special engine...I just love to do it.Wish to make one day a engine by myself,even castings.
Regards Peter
Very good work! Many compliments. The history of DC motors is also very interesting. Thanks.
Yes, I know.. its a interesting story. Shame, they sabotage many engines, because the spere in the company get so bad at the end...
@@valic000 It is a very pity!!!
Yes indeed.If I count the houers,its not worth the money.On old rare vintage diesels,real old,.. its worth it.But love to do it,and sharpen just my skills,as every rebuild is different,and ist somtimes full of surprices.And like we both know,when we testrun the engine for the first time,its a great feeling! :-)
Regards from cold NL, Peter
Well done !!!
Many thanks my friend!! It was a fun project.. the work was not worth the engine...but it was interesting to do it anyway...
Check,if the smal holes in the spraybar are open and not gumed up with old fuel.Also you can check,if the engine have good suction,no vacum leak and healthy pre-compression.I use regular engine oil to find any waek spots inside and outside of a not sealing carter house.Its very important for a 2 stroker,that al is perfect sealed...Good luck! If you have moore questions,no problem!
Regards ,Peter
Yours runs much better than my 2 Sabre's ever did!, I bought them new in the 70's; they were difficult to start and not much power. The DC 1cc was much better.
I heard,that the employes at the DC factory did on purpose sabotage some engines,as the had a issue With the boss,who was not really care about the staff,only money and had a very short tempered mind. So its possible,you have one of these engines.But I also lighten the piston on my Saber,so its now reving a bit more.
The whole DC story you find on " www. modelenginenews.org Search for DC Saber
Hola me gustan muncho Tus videos me encantan los model disel engines
Muchas gracias amigo. Model diesel motorinis mas,mas bien! ;-D
Salute de hollanda
pedro
Very nice, looks like you done a nice job of the rebuild. Runs well.
Thanks a lot Daniel.It was a lot work,actually not really worth the efford and time,but I do it because I like the engines a lot.I like the challange to make it a runner again,when al is so bad as it was here...
:-)
@gh2106090 Thanks Graham.When I buy him,I was sure ,Its a easy fix.But as the project goes on,..moore surprices rises.Its not a engine of great value,but I see it as a training object to improof my knowlege.I start 2 years ago with that hobby of repair engines..so still a lot to learn.I hope to make soon my own engine incl.castings. But its great feeling,if after many houers the engine fire up again...
Have a nice weekeng Graham and please keep posting your collection
regards peter
ive got one of these it was given to me cant wait to un gum it and start it
I hope you got a good one..if all ok, they run not bad at all. A real British classic!
Very nice job. appears to Run strong
Thanks a lot!! The engine was maybe not really worth it, but it was indeed a nice project to learn things. Sadly I have so little time,and can not there for make new videos...I have a lot stuff in my PC.. but the editing to make good videos costs a lot time...I wish, I had more!!!
@@valic000 I really would like to see how you get a good fit between your pistons and cylinders. I'm still working on the little .19 spark ignition engine the "Jr. Brown Jr." Just made some adjustments, planning on running it today! It has a blind bore ( no opening at the top of the cylinder except for the spark plug hole.
Thanks for coment!
Its indeed a non nonsens engine.I got last week a Uctcam 2,5 diesel.That engine push out 1 HP at 30.000 rpm! But ofcourse a high tech diesel..a compleet other class My plesure is the rebuild of those oldies and digg also a bit around in the companys history.
@GermanBeez Thanx a lot.I am honored when peopel rating my clips positiv.The engine is nothing special,I just sharping my skills.I hope to make this year my own engine,even with self made crankcase castings.If I manage the castings,that wil open doors to really nice engine projects! Also a smal radial cox 5 cilinder is a nice project!
...and keep the bees singing !! :-)
Regards Peter
what about a con rod for me??
@@nosbig11 Hi Terry.. for a Sabre 1,5 ?
@@valic000 yes bud
@@nosbig11 Ok, will make on.. but you are on a waiting list.. so it can take some days..also post ist not working as it should...But I will make one...
Thank you,just let me know cost and when? Regards,Terry
Thanks Tim.Yes its a comon error,to unsrew the cilinder without free up first.But like always .mistakes are great..they teach us,how to do it next time! :-)
It was a lot work on the saber,could easy buy a cheap and better engine.but my plessure is the rebuild.A never ending story....
I am working now on a old Webra 2,5 s. Also a nice rebuildstory...wil be relaesed soon.If you like to have a new spitfire piston,let me know,oke?
Also good times with this great hobby!!.
Regards ,Peter
Hi Valic000 you were correct the pin didn't take much effort at all to remove from piston.I have a dremel tool with a mini milling type cutter and it seem to go though inner part of the piston very easily.I was surprised how soft the cast iron piston is.
I took some material out of the inner hole now egg shaped but I was concerned the piston material is very weak and if I went too far the piston may fail with engine running.Your new piston you made must be of a higher quality material by what I can see.I think I may I have removed about 1 gram not sure if was worth the effort but good to experiment.When I assembled the engine I found the pin connecting the rod to the piston not very firm now.I am not sure if loctite would work at high temperatures with engine running so I pulled out pin and hit one end of the pin between hammer and base of vise to flatten it slightly to distort the end.This seemed to make it tight enough to gently tap pin in place.Hopefully the pin won't move when I start the engine.I was also temped to grind part of the crankshaft to add counter balance (Similar to what Adrian Duncan's web page suggests doing for the Silver Swallow 2.5cc diesel engine) .After all this good learning experience and making a new gasket that was missing from rear cover compression is still good no leakage at all .Regards Jim.
Hi Jim.. Nice job.. and as you say, a great learning experience too..As far I remember, the exhaust and transfer slits are far smaller than the pin itself,so it just can't fool the ports,as long the end is a bit rounded at the end..Be sure, that transfer ports are fully open.
If you read the full DC story on Adrians website, you will discover, that at the employees,who make those engine even sabotages the engines, to bring down the company,as the had many issues with the director.He was not a kind person.
So in my case, the gasket was FAR too thick, and therefore the ports were almost not opening.Not sure, if the engine was in its original condition,but that is what I found.The rod on later types are also made from far too soft materials.I rebuild last year an early DC Sabre, and that engine was far better made.
Grind the crank is a good thing..but be sure, you grind the sides of with the web disc at the same angle as the grinding disc..so the groves from grinding ar NOT at 90 degrees to the shaft..as this can cause hair cracks later on,if it is not polished out..
Wish you a happy run with it Jim!!
Hi Valic,
I am just renovating my Sabre and agree the piston is way to chunky and would benefit from lightening.
I have had to make the cylinder gaskets myself and have used a cnc laser setup which cuts these nicely. I have run with 0.8mm thickness and 0.4mm and to be honest have not found much difference in performance but I cannot quantify this with hard figures. I know the 0.8 restricts the transfer but in reality hardly matters. Keep up the great work! Rich
Hi Rich.Thanks for your rebuild story. Maybe check the inside diameter of the new gasket ring, as it should be a bit bigger as the diameter of the liner, to not restrict the gas flow..Of course, a thicker gasket give longer exhaust and transfer timing.So on one side you can get better gas flow, but on the other hand...a shorter timing.It ned a bit experimenting,what is the best.
But you can also make the intake bore in the shaft a bit larger,maybe 1mm in total.. make it slightly oval,( more longer then wider) so the timing is not to much affected..but the port will be bigger. I also smooth down the sharp edges of the transfer port a bit, so the gas flow will be smoother.Any sharp edges in ports are not good.Imagine water will flow thru the ports for many years..and smooth down and sharp corners with in time.
The Sabre will be never a race engine , but with some attention, it should run better.And indeed the piston was a bottle neck ,as its extrem heavy.I wish you good work on it,and keep me updated please!
Have a great weekend!
Peter
@@valic000
Peter,
Many thanks for your reply. I am surprised the transfer ports are not chamfered to guide the flow upwards so it must be a hit and miss with the flow going in at right angles. I know this is a common port arrangement.
I have put my Gordon Nano (which won't run!) aside a while and rebuilding the Sabre and a Spitfire for relaxation!
I have a lot of questions I would like to put to you but appreciate you are a busy chap. Maybe ask a few at a later time.
Keep up your great work!
Rich
@@creast56 Hi Rich. I have indeed a very busy life, as I work full time next to my engines.As I live alone..sometimes I need to cook as well..LOL.. But I always try to reply as soon as I have time....Let me know, what is your most important issue for now..and I try to write you back,to give you help.
Those are some great skills, Peter. I bought a Sabre off eBay only to find it didn't have a piston. I didn't read the description closelyenough. I have to find someone that can make me one.
Its a cheap engine,but a great runner. I am afraid,it will be to costly to fix it..I ask 40 euro for a new piston,as its 1.5-2.5 hours just to make a new piston and make it fit well...but you must ad shipping also twice to it.Many times its not only a piston,but also a re bore,if the bore is not smooth or out of roundness....and many times a new rod or other issues.
My engine had a far too much tapper in the cylinder,so it was a lot lot work to make it run.On ebay the DC Saber 1.5 come many times as a runner for a decent price..
But I let you make the choice.I also have right now a lot work from other customers. so it can take a while too. Still got a lot work what should be done a long time ago...just so littel time to do all things I need to do. ;-D
I hope,you understand it,as I like to be honest with you.If you live in the UK,there are some chaps,who do it also.Maybe cheaper,I am not sure... Just let me know anyway please.
Best regards from the Netherlands,
Peter
Hi Tim!
I have a ED racer 2.5 ,but dont open the engine yet,as its in perfect order.But I think,the engine wil not run correct,if the engine wil have the cilinder upside down.The problem is the correct tapper.Also the tight fit of the contrapiston wil not work anymoore.Maeby if you check the cilinder closely,after first clean wel.you shoud see a different surface picture from running. Where the contra piston is working,this shoud also leaves a different surface inside.Good luck.! Regards ,Peter
Ha,ha..just find the picture on the web..was nice as a end of clip! Dont know her! :-)
regards,Peter
I am the lucky owner:-) :-)
Welcome to the club Marcin. Your engine I buy in really good condition.It was only looking not so great,but feels excellent.I am sure it will run very well! Hope to have many good flights! ;-D
Hi Valic000 thanks for the tip about grinding the crankshaft.Re your comment to do with checking when piston is going down that the intake ports should open.The contra piston is very tight won't move and I know some contra pistons you have to take them out you have to push them further down into the cylinder and remove from the bottom as top of cylinder is deliberate tight.Is this the case with this engine?I worked out another way and I set prop to be pointing at the 12 o'clock position with piston at top dead center (6 oclock at the piston lowest).I then turn prop slowly anticlockwise and when the prop was pointing at the 8 o'clock position the compressed air in the crankcase from the down stroke of the piston I could hear it swish through the intake ports into the cylinder.My estimate is then that the intake port would be shut off by the piston at the 4 o'clock position.This gives about 120 degrees that the intake port would be exposed during the 360 degree 2 stroke cycle.A conrod 1mm too long or to short would be critical I would imagine.Thanks for you handy tips keep the videos coming you obviously enjoy doing them. Regards Jim.
Hi Jim. The contra pistons can be indeed an issue..I punch them out to the top,to prevent any scores in a good bore.. but if it is already deep inside and not almost flat with the top, you can push it down with a brass thick rod and a hammer.... put the liner on a wooden plate ..or the best on a very solid workbench..or even on the street with the wood, to have a hard underground...maybe a bit heat up, and it will come out for sure. Then use 2000 grid waterproof sandpaper..and try to polish as even as you possibly can from the contra piston outside diameter..also clean the bore , where the CP runs, that no old castor oil is left there..work in small steps..and retry between them if it's ok..You must have a good working CP Jim..and it must be pushed back by the running engine if the tommy bar is slack of. Its a tight, but still free fit.. It needs a bit of practice, to get it right. You can use PTFE lubrication spray, to get a smoother working CP.
If you only hear the puff, it is good of course, but it still can be restricted, as you can't see at all, where the piston is. I would recommend to free up the CP..and than check the transfer port opening from above, then you are sure, it is ok or not. If you have more questions,, please ask. Good luck,I hope this info brings you further...
Peter
Who is the little cutie at the end?
great job ! the old parts are big trouble.
i have a st g51 nitro engine that it is orphan now. hard to find parts.
Hi Maurice.Its indeed a classic.But on ebay you can get a lot,or a donor bone engine for parts.What do you need?
super tiger g51 .if buy the parts from Europe that they are very expensive. i am not sure this compeny still exsit .
22043129 Cylinder Liner-G51 R/C
22203177 Piston
22220294 Crankshaft Spacer
Please try this chap.He have a piston,and also a lot other stuff for Super Tigre engine.
www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-SUPER-TIGRE-VARIOUS-SPARE-PARTS-FOR-G51-CONTROL-LINE-ENGINE-AS-PIC-/222199158302?hash=item33bc1a161e:g:KgcAAOSwENxXlwJk
thank a lot. it is good.
i just bought brand new in box dc spitfire for a resonable price. I will post video when i start it.
+Matthew Piper Hi Matthew! New in box ,wow..but there still out there,just need a bit of luck. I found also this week finally a Frog 500 glow,incl. fueltank in the rear.Was not cheap,but I cant resist...again!v :-)
happy chrismas !!!
Happy christmas to you too
Why ?
Wish I understood the porting better. Wrong from the factory? Thanks, Paul
If you look in youtube,there are for sure films about the 2 stroke engine,and how it work.
I read somewhere,that at the Dc factory,the employes had many times arguing with the Boss of DC.He push the peopel a lot,and was short tempered..and not a good boss.
So the story goes,that some peopel in the factory sabotage some of the engines.The will have good compression,if hand tested,but were poor runners,to hurt the DC brand and drop sales.You can read the story at model engine news.org. Maeby this engine was one of them??
Kind regards,
Peter
Good work,but shouldnt the liner be a matt finish to allow the piston to bed in? Thats why they 'glaze bust' a cylinder for new pistons? Just sayin bud.Well done!!By the way,I have three of those one with a worn con rod!!!
If you have a hone machine, it will look like that for sure, but I have to improvice a lot..as it is all a hobby only.But in my old British books, they write it has to be a mirror finish.It need a bit longer run in time, but that fine.
@@valic000 Thats fair comment bud,its just that when I built engines I always 'glaze busted' them? your doing a good job bud!
@@nosbig11 I read, that the oil film attaches better to a less polished surface, sure, but If I made liners not smooth, I got issues with metal wear, what rub my conrod out a bit...but maybe I have to polish it slightly,and leave very microscopic scratches,so the oil can grab better to the liner waal..I still have to learn a lot..every day...But its a great journey!
Hi Valic000 thank you for that I now understand what you are saying that the piston relationship to the cylinder height is important for the piston to go low enough to allow fuel and air to enter cylinder I am going to give it a try and lighten the piston but I have a question for you please.Is the pin joining the rod to the piston an interference fit and what is the best way to tap it out without damaging the piston.Does it matter which way I need to tap it out with a punch?
Your videos are very educational thank you for putting them on
UA-cam.Regards Jim.
Hi Jim.The wrist pin is a press fit,but not very tight. I know,that PAW use the way you describe,one way a bit looser...but the DC in my case was the same fit on both sides...and my new piston had it like the paw engines. I would use a hard wood with a small hole in it for the pin...and give it a try..if to tight,a round brass clamp /tube, what fit tight will be a way to go....also with 2 holes at the possition of the pin,to punch it out.
Hi valic000 I recently picked up the same model engine on ebay and it doesn't seem to have had much use.The compression is good and wishbone conrod very slight wear.I have learnt from your video that the original piston is way too heavy so I am thinking to dremel out original the piston to reduce the weight.Are you able to suggest what thickness I need to make a new cylinder fibre washer to make engine run better as you mention the fibre gasket washer of .8mm is not good.
Great Videos.Regards
The best would be a small lathe, if you want to make it lighter. But I understand, that not everybody has a lathe. You can grind of the sides,and leave it where the pin is thicker, as there is the biggest load... I think it is not gonna be easy with a Dremel, but you will always remove some material.
Check the gasket hight.. like I show in the video, in my engine, it was blocking the transfer ports a lot...You can not use a very thin gasket, as then the liner will be deeper/ lower and the piston will maybe not open the transfer ports full.You must check it, when the contra piston is out,so you can look inside from the top how the ports open at the lowest position of the piston. If you have any questions, just ask, please! ..Good luck!! Don't forget to flush out VERY well!!!
hi what fuel mixture are you using? will it run on alcohol and carfuel and a litle bit of 2stroke engine oil?
Hi. No its a compression ignition engine. The fuel is a mix of ether, castor oil and kerosene. ( car diesel fuel can be used as well) the fuel is mixed approx in a relation of 1/3 each. If you can not buy ether, you can buy a starting fluid spray can, and spray it empty in a can to collect the content. But be careful,as its highly inflammable! See here also a link to a video I make about fuel mixing.
ua-cam.com/video/PKMVpklGt2c/v-deo.html
What do you use to get them so clean? I get mine clean but not as clean as that
Hi John.It depends on the state,how messy they are.If its bad, I put them for 2-3 hours in hot old car brake fluid.Then the worse come of with a old toothbrush or a soft brass brush.
Then you can use very fine steel wool with soap ad..Its a kitchen cleaner for pans and so on.
That will make the carters shine very nicely. Also aluminium polish can be used on some parts,but its a bit too shining,because it will look like chrome.The engine should always look like it was ,when left the factory! :-)
If you leave the whole engine in petrol it does a fantastic job of freeing up??How much would you charge for a new con rod please? Thanks
I always use a hot Ultrasonic bath, to get rid of all the nasty stuff.. just wash out is not enough. That cheap cleaner works very well..take ALL dirt and metal particals out..
Very nice work and engine! I bought one on ebay this week. Never had a diesel engine any tips on how to run it? Where are you from?
Hello Felipe.Many thanks for coment.It was indeed a lot work.Actually not really worth the houers I spend on it,but its a labour of love,so thats why I done it...
To run a diesel,you need to learn that some things are different than glow engines.I hope,you can buy ready mixed model diesel fuel.Otherwise,if you can buy medical sulfic aether,you can easy mix it your self..see my video about making home made fuel.
I would recomend as a start drill...close the needel,and focus only on the compression.Its a bit higher as a glow.Squirt a few littel drops in the exhaust,and check,if the engine catch on for a few sec. on this setting..Otherwise increase very slowly compression.
Than open the nedel aprox 2.5 -3 turns and try,till the engine keeps running.Use a woden stick,as the can kick back nasty,if you have no expirience.The propeller flick must be fast!....and keep the engine ALWAYS very clean! Watch the exhaust collour..if its dark brouwn,and engine runs harsh,its overcompressed.Its very bad vor the engine. And if your engine is new,it needs first free up at medium loads and medium speeds for 4-7 runs.Here its possibel,you wil see black exhaust oil,but thats normal,till its free up.Always cool down completly between the runs,if you are run in a new engine.Thats important.If you need moore help,.hit the keyboard,ok?
Many regards from the Netherlands!
Good luck,
Peter
Very nice , good job
+Eduardo Grazioli Hi Eduardo.Sorry for late reply,but as I have so many clips,I dont check them regulary.I depend on youtube to get a hint,when a coment was placed,but the didnt in this case... But many thanks for nice words.I am always happy to recieve positive words about my work.Check out my latest clips,if you dont already have done.How to make a crankshaft for a model engine...Reards from Holland,
Peter
+Eduardo Grazioli ..sorry for the late responce,but sumehow I dont get a notified message in case of some coments anymoore..But thanks a lot for positiv reaction..I am really surpriced,how many peopel still watch and are interrested in thos old diesels...a never ending story! Arround 1965 they pronouced " a starving race"...but I guess they never died for real!
Thankx Eduardo! Hope you enjoy also my other clips...Moore really rare & complex rebuilds on its way..
What grade of aluminium did you use for the new connecting rod
Its from the hardware store.. I am pretty sure a 6000 series Dural...pretty good. But I also recommend old bike brake handles, or window/door cast Dural handles..That is even better material... as it's stronger.
Did Webra have problems too?
I am wondering how this engine ignition system is please please explain to me how to help the ignition system in this boot tell me please
The eather in the fuel ignites by heating up with the compression stroke.Than this eather ignite further the petroleum or diesel oil,what ever you use.The castor oil keeps the engine lubricated. Check out the internet for compression ignition please!
Kind regards,
Peter
diesel engine banta kaisa hai an video beghaia na please
Hi Peter, hope you're well. I've recently purchased a DC Sabre off ebay, and even though it turns over freely with compression the contrapiston is very loose indeed. - If I sent the engine over to you would you be able to make me a new contrapiston for me?
Hi Tim. I am happy to help you out, only right now I am buried with repairs. I get many times an engine,which only a small thing should be fixed, but in the end, there is much more going on. If you are in no hurry, I am happy to help, but please do not suspect, it is in 2 weeks or so back.If that is ok....and really only the CP is the issue, it is fine with me.If the CP is very lose, there is no way, you can know, that the piston seal well.If you read the DC story at Adrians website, they also sabotage many engines in the factory.Like my engine, had a far to big taper in t he bore. The compression will be fine.. but it will be next to impossible to start it...just an example on what you can expect Tim...there can be always surprises....and that is what I mean.
@@valic000 Thanks for the advice Peter, I know the quality control wasn't that good back then. It's actually an early Spitfire from the late 1950s - It was advertised as a Sabre cos it has red cooling fins.
@@timpayne8238 Those were indeed much better! It has a bit a square head edge?. I rebuild one some time ago.. and the shaft is also much better made!!
@@valic000 No it's got a rounded head, identical to a Spitfire except red. Unfortunately I managed to melt the conrod yesterday; was expanding the piston with a blowtorch. - Unfortunatley I don't know enough about these old diesels to be messing about with them!!
machine up a flywheel it will make all the difference
diesel engine kaisa bana
Hi Valic000, I thought better put the engine together and try it out before I go any further.I managed to start it within 2 minutes so it starts easily and responds to compression and fuel mixture settings OK and the contra piston goes up and and down once it started.
It doesn't seem to be lacking in power and runs very well but vibration is very significant. Of all the engines I have this may have most vibrations. I can now see why you made the piston as light as possible.Did you have any vibrations with your engine running with the lighter piston? I did grind out the crank and piston but I was cautious to grind further in case the piston became too weak.In hindsight I should have test run the engine before grinding to see if there was a reduction in vibration.Too bad the manufacturer didn't make a bit more effort to balance the engine at the time.I can send you a picture of the parts I ground out for you to have a look if you like.Thank you for your tips.Jim.
Hi Jim! If it indeed runs well, have good performance, than the transfer is sure opening enough. Also if the Contra piston works and come free.. dont change it Jim. In the video, I had a far to thin mounting wood,and if the engine have higher rpm, it is not a big issue. A reall good model diesel engine have a FAR stronger thick web disc, so you can make there a proper contra weight, to give the engine a smooth run. But the Sabre have a thin web disc, so only a bit can be saved here by grinding the sides a bit of.. but sure..every bit helps.. even every half gramm of weight helps. Very modern engines have a special alu piston what is very light,and there for they run very smooth event at 25.000 + rpm.
I hope you have some great runs with it..and maybe use it in a old school control liner plane!
Many regards mate,
Peter
Hello I have the same engine as you but I miss the aim of wealth will you or I can find thank you?
Hi.I am not sure,if I understand it right.Please explain,what you mean,as my english is not very good.
Peter
are you on Facebook ?? YOU FEUERSTEIN GEOFFREY
Dc Sabre never existed in 1955 .
Hi Tony. The Saber did exist, but it was actually named the Albon Saber 1.5, and indeed the first DC Saber arrived a bit later, in 1956. You can read the full story on Adrians Modelaeroengines web site. Did you know the site?