Would the old alignment of the derailleur before doing the cold set be affected after doing a cold set? Or is it going to be plug and play after the cold set? Thanks!
Should be pretty plug and play but it never hurts to check derailleur hanger alignment. The right dropout and hanger move as a single piece. So if either were out of alignment before spreading the frame, then it will still be out of alignment after.
You can do it however you want to. The reason I like to do one side at a time is that each side may require a different amount of force to move, like breaking a wishbone. Often one side spreads further than the other meaning you’ll have to correct for centering anyway.
IME, this works great on run-of-the-mill cromoly found on most steel bikes. 531 l, however, is really hard to move, and i have yet to have it retain the spread.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 simultaneously. It's so stiff I worry it'll crack. Then I do something like a Schwinn Sports Tourer w/ generic cromo, and it spreads and retains like it's its job
You just need to spread it more than needed to account for the spring back. Also on some frames you might need to brace the brake bridge and/ or the seat stays at the seat tube cluster. I normally use a nylon strap wrapped around those areas to alleviate some of the stress on those brazed joints during the spreading process, I have never had an issue granted I have only done about 10 frames. Tube sets like 531, Tange1 and Tange 2 have all been fine.
Sort of opens up another can of worms but ultimately the answer usually yes. Depends on the frame if you’re using a freewheel. If you remove spacers from the right side of the hub, this can sometimes result in the chain getting jammed against the frame when shifting. When you remove spacers from the left side, the hub may fit but the required difference in spoke tension on each side may result in broken spokes.
As mentioned it is possible but would required you to re dish the wheel if it is already built and there might not be enough threads left to re dish or allow for future adjustment. That said is might sound counter intuitive but Disc brake hubs are good candidates for this type of mod for use with rim brakes. The non drive flange is normally placed closer to the center to allow the disc rotor so reducing spacer size from 135 to 130 is not an issue at all going to 126 is normally fine for 7-10 MTB hubs (can use 11 speed road cassettes), but 11 speed MTB hubs going to 126 might produce to steep a drive side angle. you can use on-line spoke calculators to check how much the angles have changed and of course riding habits play a factor on how critical that diminished angle is.
Hi!, i've done this recently, but i don't have the bell thingy, so i eyeballed it. Any tip on how to do it wel without the propper tool? (i've looked for it in all of Santiago, where I'm from, and they don't sell it). So far I had good results using a long thread with bolts and washers and calliper measuring (tedious but effective) but perhaps you have a better idea. cheers!
Hi Camilo, if you feel like you’re getting good results with that then maybe there’s nothing to worry about. I was going to recommend RJ the Bike Guy but seems like you’re already doing that. ua-cam.com/video/PsU8IkkFaok/v-deo.html
Never done that one so can’t say from experience. There are a few frames that in my experience aren’t worth spreading and usually those have been touring bikes with exceptionally stiff seat and chainstay. And I don’t really know until I try to bend them. Another feature to bikes that don’t spread easily is lack of dimpling near the bottom bracket for maximizing tire clearance. Put another way, if the chainstays have dimples, they’re much easier to spread. Also if you spread the Moonlander symmetrically know that the chainline to the cassette will change and you may need to adjust the positioning of the chainring to work with it.
It's funny, I've always used an axle and bolts, washers, as the 2x4 method sounded barbaric and reckless. Seeing you do it with such simple elegance here, however, it actually looks gentler than the higher-tech method.
I pretty much only spread chromoly frames. By no means are we ever strengthening the joints when this is done. But chromoly is very resilient. These videos are for entertainment purposes only and based on my own experiences tweaking my own bikes for a number of decades.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 I purchased a Bontranger race lite wheelset for $120 when I thought could not true my back wheel. I found a good mechanic who trued my wheel. I would like to possibly use this wheelset since I ride on paved and groomed limestone trails. The new wheelset is 130 and my bike and old wheelset is 126.
Excellent technique and excellent explanation. Thank you.
This video should have way more hits.
Very good and skilled sensi tive ork and well explained
This is a good video, thanks for the tips and showing your process!
your a superstar i mean it
Would the old alignment of the derailleur before doing the cold set be affected after doing a cold set? Or is it going to be plug and play after the cold set? Thanks!
Should be pretty plug and play but it never hurts to check derailleur hanger alignment. The right dropout and hanger move as a single piece. So if either were out of alignment before spreading the frame, then it will still be out of alignment after.
Great job.
Could a manual car jack be an alternative to the wood lever?
You can do it however you want to. The reason I like to do one side at a time is that each side may require a different amount of force to move, like breaking a wishbone. Often one side spreads further than the other meaning you’ll have to correct for centering anyway.
IME, this works great on run-of-the-mill cromoly found on most steel bikes. 531 l, however, is really hard to move, and i have yet to have it retain the spread.
Do you spread one side at a time or simultaneously?
@@allrounderbicycle7193 simultaneously. It's so stiff I worry it'll crack. Then I do something like a Schwinn Sports Tourer w/ generic cromo, and it spreads and retains like it's its job
You just need to spread it more than needed to account for the spring back. Also on some frames you might need to brace the brake bridge and/ or the seat stays at the seat tube cluster. I normally use a nylon strap wrapped around those areas to alleviate some of the stress on those brazed joints during the spreading process, I have never had an issue granted I have only done about 10 frames. Tube sets like 531, Tange1 and Tange 2 have all been fine.
Can you go backwards by converting a 130mm bike wheel set to fit a 126 mm frame by changing freehub, or removing washers or spacers?
Sort of opens up another can of worms but ultimately the answer usually yes. Depends on the frame if you’re using a freewheel. If you remove spacers from the right side of the hub, this can sometimes result in the chain getting jammed against the frame when shifting. When you remove spacers from the left side, the hub may fit but the required difference in spoke tension on each side may result in broken spokes.
As mentioned it is possible but would required you to re dish the wheel if it is already built and there might not be enough threads left to re dish or allow for future adjustment. That said is might sound counter intuitive but Disc brake hubs are good candidates for this type of mod for use with rim brakes. The non drive flange is normally placed closer to the center to allow the disc rotor so reducing spacer size from 135 to 130 is not an issue at all going to 126 is normally fine for 7-10 MTB hubs (can use 11 speed road cassettes), but 11 speed MTB hubs going to 126 might produce to steep a drive side angle. you can use on-line spoke calculators to check how much the angles have changed and of course riding habits play a factor on how critical that diminished angle is.
Hi!, i've done this recently, but i don't have the bell thingy, so i eyeballed it. Any tip on how to do it wel without the propper tool? (i've looked for it in all of Santiago, where I'm from, and they don't sell it).
So far I had good results using a long thread with bolts and washers and calliper measuring (tedious but effective) but perhaps you have a better idea.
cheers!
Hi Camilo, if you feel like you’re getting good results with that then maybe there’s nothing to worry about. I was going to recommend RJ the Bike Guy but seems like you’re already doing that.
ua-cam.com/video/PsU8IkkFaok/v-deo.html
Is 135mm to 148mm possible? I've been offered a Surly Moonlander.
Never done that one so can’t say from experience. There are a few frames that in my experience aren’t worth spreading and usually those have been touring bikes with exceptionally stiff seat and chainstay. And I don’t really know until I try to bend them. Another feature to bikes that don’t spread easily is lack of dimpling near the bottom bracket for maximizing tire clearance. Put another way, if the chainstays have dimples, they’re much easier to spread. Also if you spread the Moonlander symmetrically know that the chainline to the cassette will change and you may need to adjust the positioning of the chainring to work with it.
Nice
I would have used a long carriage bolt, 2 coupling nuts and washers. And turn the coupling nuts in opposite directions. The frame will spread.
Thanks. You still can. But I find this method to be more reliable when it comes to speed and maintaining center.
It's funny, I've always used an axle and bolts, washers, as the 2x4 method sounded barbaric and reckless. Seeing you do it with such simple elegance here, however, it actually looks gentler than the higher-tech method.
Can you spread a chrome moly frame?
I pretty much only spread chromoly frames. By no means are we ever strengthening the joints when this is done. But chromoly is very resilient. These videos are for entertainment purposes only and based on my own experiences tweaking my own bikes for a number of decades.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 I purchased a Bontranger race lite wheelset for $120 when I thought could not true my back wheel. I found a good mechanic who trued my wheel. I would like to possibly use this wheelset since I ride on paved and groomed limestone trails. The new wheelset is 130 and my bike and old wheelset is 126.