RJ The Bike Guy Hi RJ, have you ever worked on a 1990 Fisher Supercaliber? It has cartridge bearings in the bottom bracket. They have to be Locktited in. Do you think there would be a way to install a cartridge bottom bracket somehow? Aligning the chain line is something I do not want to do anymore. I have to set the chain line before the locktite sets. Can I thread the the bottom bracket part of the frame, maybe? Please let me know what you think.
RJ, really appreciate you posting your videos. You guided me through removing my cassette, installing ball bearings on the rear wheel, and installing my rear derailleur. How did amateurs like me manage before youtube? Thanks fella!
Its interesting.I did the same to 1978 Team Raleigh bike.I also changed the handlebar to flat and higher for more comfort and Shimano bar shifters.I simply love love this bike.It handles exceptionally well.It could be good old 531 tubing.Now my Specialized racer is collecting dust.I prefer the Raleigh over it.This goes to show what you like maybe 50yr old frame to build upon. Great videos! RJ Thank you
Great stuff RJ. No matter how the building of bicycles progresses or changes there will always be so many advantages in working with a good steel frame. Aluminum is lighter and carbon fiber is stiffer but steel is ultimately recyclable, useable, workable and upgradable with new wheels, shifters, brakes, flat bars and drop bars to make a brand new bike.
I did this to my Schwinn Le Tours. I had a 1 x 7 setup for riding roads (Florida is flat enough) and a 2 x 7 setup with flat bars and 27" nobbies (kenda make them and they are awesome) for trail riding. I kept the original non-index stem shifter on the road bike, it just barely accomodates 7 gears. For the trail bike I bought some cheapo non-index thumb shifters and they worked great. I wish I didn't have to sell them off. I love vintage bikes.
Just picked up the exact same frame and am in the process of doing a 700c, 2x9 conversion on it. Gonna keep the friction shifters but these videos have been invaluable in doing the work on this bike!
Hello R J came across some of your videos and now i am hooked. They are very informative and with a doubt your many years of experience show. I am now doing my own bike wheel alignment and maintenance. Thanks to you. You are a great teacher. I will continue to watch your videos. I have my notification bell on so I won't miss new ones.
I have Raleigh exactly like yours, except mine has been neglected for 40+ years and trying to decide whether to fix up or not. You helped me a lot for this specific bike.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I'm thinking around$150 for tires, tubes, cables and front derailleur. Do you have any suggestions for an inexpensive front derailleur? I'll probably just display it or maybe give it away. Thanks for the input.
Cool, you've put this vid up on the same day I've just finished the same project on my dad's old 1968 Claud Butler. I went the 700c and 9 speed route and it did end up costing more than I anticipated! I was dropping by to say your other vid's on swapping downtube shifters for brifters, and swapping to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, were really helpful. Keep up the good work.
Great and timely video ! I just found a 10-speed Free Spirit in the trash. It needs new tires and the front inner patched. Other than that, it just needed cleaning and another good home. However, I might do a similar upgrade following your instructions. Thanks and PEACE !
RJ is great. The frame alignment can be done with string and the rear brackets aligned/widened with some threaded rod and nuts. Can easily make them for $10 max.
@@RJTheBikeGuy perfect! Maybe I'll make a set for my project to check the squareness of the frame before overhauling it. One thing I for sure noticed is the chain rubs slightly on the frame just above the drop down bracket. You mentioned in one video it might need a spacer after resetting the width to accommodate a bigger hub. Is that how to fix it properly or could it be the frame is just bent and needs alignment and no spacer is needed. Thanks!
I was thinking the same thing. If you buy a new bike off the shelf you could easily spend money on parts by upgrading it to instead of having a solid platform you like already and just updating it to what you want.
Awesome video! I've never used the 2x4 method before, looks pretty useful. I usually just push with one arm and pull with the other one gradually until I get it spaced correctly (similar to drawing back a compound bow). *In case anyone out there doesn't have a 2x4, it's not very exact but it works for me and steel is pretty forgiving.
Hi, Mr. RJ, the Bike Guy. Your tutorials are the best. I'm not a bike mechanic but I try to repair my own bikes here in the Philippines. I have a Mongoose steel frame MTB and also a BMX bike built with a sidecar which we use for transporting passengers or my family or heavy cargo. They are locally fabricated and fondly called as "trisikad" which literally means "tri " = three and "sikad" = pedal in Filipino. I hope you make more videos or blogs about bikes. Thanks.
I love these videos. You're obviously sharing years of knowledge and experience. Artisan trades like these are generally going away. Thank you for passing on your technical knowledge.
Two long threaded rods so you have the leverage, washers and nuts, one on each side of the frame where the wheels attach and matching the tips in the middle of the of the frame is allot cheaper and just as effective as Park Tool's versions. I've been repairing and upgrading since the mid 80's.
ALL frame shops that re-space will remove bottom bracket first as you're effectively stressing the union between the chain stay and BB shell; the spread to get an extra mm or two is not the problem, the dropout faces MUST be parallel so the weld between the dropout and stays is not stressed.
I have a mystery 10-speed motobecane. My boss gave it to me because he never rode it, he was born in the Netherlands and moved to the US in 1985 or earlier and brought it with him. Everything is made in "Fance/Germany" on it. Rigida 700c chrome rims, through spoke lock with key, chrome front and rear fenders with dynamo and head/rear lights, brooks b66s saddle seat, silver original paint with blue decals....and the top bar decal says "Club". It needs some restoration but I need to know what It is to know what to do for it. I'm a 5'7" girl and the seat is as low as It gets, and I have rather long legs, but still can't touch the ground seated on it. Everything I find is for the US made moto's. If it wasn't such an amazing bike to ride I'd almost be to the point of parting it out for a small fortune.
I use anti-seize compound rather than grease on freewheel threads, bottom bracket cups, seat posts, headset cups and ANYWHERE I want to be able to disassemble in the future. Particularly steel / aluminum interfaces. But grease works to some degree.
Hi, thanks for this video. It's very useful to me because I'm thinking about upgrade mi 3x6 to 1X11. My bike's frame is made of metal. Have a nice day!
Marc Ariss Bending the frame like this is actually how you straighten steel frames. It's really not too big of a deal. I don't think changing the dish is a practical option for this.
RJ is right about this. The frames weren't perfectly aligned after brazing and bending in to alignment would have been standard procedure (unless you worked for Raleigh during the 70s bike boom, in which case you apparently just said "screw it, close enough" and shipped it out misaligned).
try making a jig, reinforce with jig were support is behind kickstand. If not weld may crack when expanded out. yes it works in most instances, that seamed to be weak link only reason ever had trouble doing that.
i recently upgraded a vintage fuji 10speed to 2x8, unlike your 120mm, mine was 130mm...... very easy upgrade(even to a 2x11), i only need to change the chain, wheel and cassette.
I have been looking for videos and specs of this exact bike! I found one a few months back abandoned. I was curious what I needed to do to convert it to a fixed gear, but was unsure about what the BB was and what I needed to do to put 700c rims on it.
Prolly someone made you aware of this already: old 10 speed bikes have asymmetric rear wheels and thus asymmetric rear triangles. Your frame alignment tool confirmed this. This frame was perfect prior to adjusting it for the new wheel.
Sorry, you don't know what you are talking about. The stays are supposed to be symmetrical. The spokes are asymmetrical to accommodate the freewheel. But the wheel will be dished to be centered between the stays.
Jimmy Dean, I do something like that in this other video, ua-cam.com/video/QwxEPRk3LFg/v-deo.html, But that would have bent BOTH stays probably evenly. I wanted to move mostly just the one stay.
I use 2 car jacks the ones that are shaped like a diamond when you open it up but this was for the fount fork on a scooter that use bike wheels to fit a E wheel was hard to trun the jack at the same time i put then bottom to bottom thy where small jacks
Very educational. Gave me a good idea of what’s involved. Do wheel/hub/cassette manufacturers give you specs on how wide they are; or how wide apart the frame needs to be?
I have two schwinn varsity both were 10 speeds NOW they are both 21 speed took the 5 speed rear free wheel and installed a 7 speed free wheel and it fit great on the old 5 speed hub next took off the double front chain ring and installed a triple chain ring Bikes sfits like dream Heard time and time again this can't work BUT IT does and I did not do all the crap measuring frame and bending things on two 40 year old bikes
great video rj,it's really brutal prying the frame apart & could have sworn i heard it ping as you were pushing on the timber :),would look even better if you swapped the cottered cranks for more modern square taper cranks after all you went to all that trouble to upgrade the gears & derailer,would round off everything nicely :) (cottered cranks are more trouble than theyr'e worth) :(
RJ, very good how-to. Do you also have a video where you put the shifters onto the handlebars using the same kind of integrated brake/shifters that modern bikes use instead of downtube or bar end ones?
I like the bike higher on the bike stand while working...its easier on the back...this is a good video..l am working on a five speed Raleigh from the same period...was hoping to convert it to a ten speed..but there is no holders for the deraileur cable for the new front double cog...bummer..!
Thanks again - I enjoy your videos. I'd seen the other one on spreading the rear triangle with the home-made tool and a good tip on this one using the 2 x 4. Could there be a home-made tool to do the job of the Park Tool drop-out aligner? Maybe two threaded steel rods with bolts either side of each drop-out and a bolt at each end?
Instead of using the seat tube as the fulcrum point wouldn't it be safer for the frame to place a block of wood or something near the seat tube and use it instead?
Hey RJ! I have a 1978 Raleigh Record Ace, and I plan on doing some upgrading like you’re doing. I’m going up to a 6 speed rear freewheel, Shimano 14-28, and I need a derailleur. I’m just hoping you can help guide me towards something that will work for my bike if you get the opportunity! Thanks for the great videos!
How does the weight compared using the aluminum wheels versus the original steel wheels? I have a vintage steel road bike and I was considering putting aluminum 700c wheels on it and changing it to a seven speed freewheel and modern indexed shifting instead of the 6-speed
As usual, excellent instructional video...What I don’t understand is that we have 77 incredibly stupid people who saw the video and didn’t like it, mind boggling.
I need help installing the original simplex I own a uo-18 mixte I got tired of single speeding I commute on the daily basis so I bought the original derailleurs 😕
seemed like you could have stuck one of those expanding car jacks shaped like in the frame to spread it a bit might save you on wailing on it with a bit of wood.
6:32 this is a mistake! Dont use the 2" side of a 2x4 to open up the frame! On a really light Reynolds 531 or Columbus frame this might dent the seat tube! Use the 4" side of the 2x4 to spread the force over a wider area!
RJ, Great video and nice vintage bike :-) I know you made this some time ago but do you remember if the wheels came with QR axles ? My Grand Prix is on bolts and I was wondering on the practicality of changing to QR on dropouts designed for bolts ?
Would you not do the parallel dropout test first? Because the point where the alignment tool measures could end being different if the dropouts are paralleled after alignment.
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
RJ The Bike Guy Hi RJ, have you ever worked on a
1990 Fisher Supercaliber? It has cartridge bearings in the bottom bracket. They have to be Locktited in. Do you think there would be a way to install a cartridge bottom bracket somehow? Aligning the chain line is something I do not want to do anymore. I have to set the chain line before the locktite sets. Can I thread the the bottom bracket part of the frame, maybe? Please let me know what you think.
I see those martial art skills come in handy for frame alignment purposes. 🥋🥋
Isnt that still friction shifting?
@@natas0733 No. They are indexed down tube shifters.
@@BulletmanDoom 8
RJ, really appreciate you posting your videos. You guided me through removing my cassette, installing ball bearings on the rear wheel, and installing my rear derailleur. How did amateurs like me manage before youtube? Thanks fella!
I built two bikes using his videos..Started flipping fixie bikes.
I learned fixing bikes through taking them apart and having to work out how they got back together and when I was older helping out in a bike shop
Its interesting.I did the same to 1978 Team Raleigh bike.I also changed the handlebar to flat and higher for more comfort and Shimano bar shifters.I simply love love this bike.It handles exceptionally well.It could be good old 531 tubing.Now my Specialized racer is collecting dust.I prefer the Raleigh over it.This goes to show what you like maybe 50yr old frame to build upon. Great videos! RJ Thank you
This exact video has gotten quite some notoriety on reddit and bike forums because of the use of the 2x4. Love it!
Great stuff RJ. No matter how the building of bicycles progresses or changes there will always be so many advantages in working with a good steel frame. Aluminum is lighter and carbon fiber is stiffer but steel is ultimately recyclable, useable, workable and upgradable with new wheels, shifters, brakes, flat bars and drop bars to make a brand new bike.
People have been using Shimano derraileurs since I was a kid in the '70's. Good to see people still using them.
I did this to my Schwinn Le Tours. I had a 1 x 7 setup for riding roads (Florida is flat enough) and a 2 x 7 setup with flat bars and 27" nobbies (kenda make them and they are awesome) for trail riding. I kept the original non-index stem shifter on the road bike, it just barely accomodates 7 gears. For the trail bike I bought some cheapo non-index thumb shifters and they worked great. I wish I didn't have to sell them off. I love vintage bikes.
Just picked up the exact same frame and am in the process of doing a 700c, 2x9 conversion on it. Gonna keep the friction shifters but these videos have been invaluable in doing the work on this bike!
Hello R J came across some of your videos and now i am hooked. They are very informative and with a doubt your many years of experience show. I am now doing my own bike wheel alignment and maintenance. Thanks to you. You are a great teacher. I will continue to watch your videos. I have my notification bell on so I won't miss new ones.
I have Raleigh exactly like yours, except mine has been neglected for 40+ years and trying to decide whether to fix up or not. You helped me a lot for this specific bike.
This was not a high end bike. I wouldn't spend too much money on the project.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I'm thinking around$150 for tires, tubes, cables and front derailleur. Do you have any suggestions for an inexpensive front derailleur? I'll probably just display it or maybe give it away. Thanks for the input.
Shop around on ebay or craigslist.
Cool, you've put this vid up on the same day I've just finished the same project on my dad's old 1968 Claud Butler. I went the 700c and 9 speed route and it did end up costing more than I anticipated!
I was dropping by to say your other vid's on swapping downtube shifters for brifters, and swapping to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, were really helpful. Keep up the good work.
Nice video. The difference between 10 speed and 14 is amazing.
Great and timely video !
I just found a 10-speed Free Spirit in the trash.
It needs new tires and the front inner patched.
Other than that, it just needed cleaning and another good home.
However, I might do a similar upgrade following your instructions.
Thanks and PEACE !
Watching this made me realize I’ll be spending as much on tools as I will be on bike parts. Maybe I should’ve just bought a new bike
Maybe. I have videos on how to make homemade versions of many of the tools.
RJ is great. The frame alignment can be done with string and the rear brackets aligned/widened with some threaded rod and nuts. Can easily make them for $10 max.
@@TheMoose240 ua-cam.com/video/dUPAKqS3dt8/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/z9bPiAi_KQc/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/PsU8IkkFaok/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/YdibmxBuMy0/v-deo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy perfect! Maybe I'll make a set for my project to check the squareness of the frame before overhauling it. One thing I for sure noticed is the chain rubs slightly on the frame just above the drop down bracket. You mentioned in one video it might need a spacer after resetting the width to accommodate a bigger hub. Is that how to fix it properly or could it be the frame is just bent and needs alignment and no spacer is needed. Thanks!
I was thinking the same thing. If you buy a new bike off the shelf you could easily spend money on parts by upgrading it to instead of having a solid platform you like already and just updating it to what you want.
Hey RJ, you actually used the derailleur hanger in this video.....Helps a ton. Thumbs up!!
Awesome video! I've never used the 2x4 method before, looks pretty useful. I usually just push with one arm and pull with the other one gradually until I get it spaced correctly (similar to drawing back a compound bow). *In case anyone out there doesn't have a 2x4, it's not very exact but it works for me and steel is pretty forgiving.
Hi, Mr. RJ, the Bike Guy. Your tutorials are the best. I'm not a bike mechanic but I try to repair my own bikes here in the Philippines. I have a Mongoose steel frame MTB and also a BMX bike built with a sidecar which we use for transporting passengers or my family or heavy cargo. They are locally fabricated and fondly called as "trisikad" which literally means "tri " = three and "sikad" = pedal in Filipino. I hope you make more videos or blogs about bikes. Thanks.
They sound interesting. Post some photos on my facebook page.
Will do.
I love these videos. You're obviously sharing years of knowledge and experience. Artisan trades like these are generally going away. Thank you for passing on your technical knowledge.
Toolin around the shop in sock feet!! RJ, you are a BOSS!! 😎
Thanks RJ , the way of the string , was the way ,that my father used in my native country to put frames straight 50 years ago
ua-cam.com/video/dUPAKqS3dt8/v-deo.html
A gauge is easier. ua-cam.com/video/z9bPiAi_KQc/v-deo.html
The glories of steel. You can manipulate it.
Two long threaded rods so you have the leverage, washers and nuts, one on each side of the frame where the wheels attach and matching the tips in the middle of the of the frame is allot cheaper and just as effective as Park Tool's versions. I've been repairing and upgrading since the mid 80's.
ua-cam.com/video/PsU8IkkFaok/v-deo.html
Thanks for this vid I'm 16 and have always had a passion for bikes and I've learned a lot from this
Same
Wow cotter pin cranks . Not seen them for a while
Very old school
Great video btw ....just what i needed to know to update my old raleigh 531c frame 😊
perfect, I have a Grand Prix as well, will be using this video as reference when upgrading it to indexed.
These steel cranksets are huge heavy,change if you can.
Good video
ALL frame shops that re-space will remove bottom bracket first as you're effectively stressing the union between the chain stay and BB shell; the spread to get an extra mm or two is not the problem, the dropout faces MUST be parallel so the weld between the dropout and stays is not stressed.
Watching this video you come a long way with your tools great work always a joy to watch 👍
OMG, you are very knowledgeable. Congratulations.
And thanks for the class !!!
You're the best for any DIY 'ers....mine anyway.
I have a mystery 10-speed motobecane. My boss gave it to me because he never rode it, he was born in the Netherlands and moved to the US in 1985 or earlier and brought it with him. Everything is made in "Fance/Germany" on it.
Rigida 700c chrome rims, through spoke lock with key, chrome front and rear fenders with dynamo and head/rear lights, brooks b66s saddle seat, silver original paint with blue decals....and the top bar decal says "Club".
It needs some restoration but I need to know what It is to know what to do for it.
I'm a 5'7" girl and the seat is as low as It gets, and I have rather long legs, but still can't touch the ground seated on it. Everything I find is for the US made moto's.
If it wasn't such an amazing bike to ride I'd almost be to the point of parting it out for a small fortune.
I salvaged a mystery 10 speed mb as well. Try 26" wheels. Keep riding, never stop.
I love the bush mechanic safety boots LOL.
Great instructions, and never gets old. Thanks for sharing.
This was a great informative video it was a pleasure to watch and you explained so well thank you I’m a track guy going road
I use anti-seize compound rather than grease on freewheel threads, bottom bracket cups, seat posts, headset cups and ANYWHERE I want to be able to disassemble in the future. Particularly steel / aluminum interfaces. But grease works to some degree.
You're a man with a thousand tools! my kinda guy! lol
very helpful. i read about the 2*4 frame technique on another website. look forward to viewing the rest of your videos.
I recently discovered "step down" ferrules that go from 5mm to 4mm that help in using newer housing on frames with older cable guides
He is using BRAKES ferrules instead of transmission ones. That's why they don't fit. Housings are not the same...
As usual very informative, thanks again.
great easy and detailed explanation without any hurry . liked ....
Hi, thanks for this video. It's very useful to me because I'm thinking about upgrade mi 3x6 to 1X11. My bike's frame is made of metal. Have a nice day!
Marc Ariss Bending the frame like this is actually how you straighten steel frames. It's really not too big of a deal. I don't think changing the dish is a practical option for this.
RJ The Bike Guy you dont know how much u help me i thought i had to throw away my bike because of the rear derailleur thanks man
RJ is right about this. The frames weren't perfectly aligned after brazing and bending in to alignment would have
been standard procedure (unless you worked for Raleigh during the 70s bike boom, in which case you apparently just said "screw it, close enough" and shipped it out misaligned).
Fantastic video, RJ. Really good stuff.
Did a similar upgrade to a 30 year old spalding blade. Was riding it all last summer.
try making a jig, reinforce with jig were support is behind kickstand. If not weld may crack when expanded out. yes it works in most instances, that seamed to be weak link only reason ever had trouble doing that.
Thank you, I learned a lot from your videos.
Nice...hope to upgrade also my old road bike
That green machine looks fast RJ. 😁
I just found your channel, and subscribed today. Very informative! Thanks for posting DIY stuff.
i recently upgraded a vintage fuji 10speed to 2x8, unlike your 120mm, mine was 130mm...... very easy upgrade(even to a 2x11), i only need to change the chain, wheel and cassette.
It was 10 speed (2x5) and the hub spacing was 130mm to start with? That is unusual.
shyflirt1 i know right?
For vindage road bikes it is very good to put rear deralleur type GS for14 speed. It is very smooth end fast.
Fantastic tutorial
Thanks for all the videos -- very useful and practical.
I have been looking for videos and specs of this exact bike! I found one a few months back abandoned. I was curious what I needed to do to convert it to a fixed gear, but was unsure about what the BB was and what I needed to do to put 700c rims on it.
Once more.
Thank you, Sir
Glad I came...HERE.
Nice upgrading mister 💪👍
Prolly someone made you aware of this already: old 10 speed bikes have asymmetric rear wheels and thus asymmetric rear triangles. Your frame alignment tool confirmed this. This frame was perfect prior to adjusting it for the new wheel.
Sorry, you don't know what you are talking about. The stays are supposed to be symmetrical. The spokes are asymmetrical to accommodate the freewheel. But the wheel will be dished to be centered between the stays.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I stand corrected. Thanks for your work!
Great job RJ
Jimmy Dean, I do something like that in this other video, ua-cam.com/video/QwxEPRk3LFg/v-deo.html, But that would have bent BOTH stays probably evenly. I wanted to move mostly just the one stay.
Thanks for the video! Greetings from Brazil!
Very Educational ❤️
You are genious. Nice Video.
I use 2 car jacks the ones that are shaped like a diamond when you open it up but this was for the fount fork on a scooter that use bike wheels to fit a E wheel was hard to trun the jack at the same time i put then bottom to bottom thy where small jacks
gr8 job great movie ! helped me a lot :)
I expect more videos
Maravilloso, saludos desde mexico city, thanks.......
Very educational. Gave me a good idea of what’s involved. Do wheel/hub/cassette manufacturers give you specs on how wide they are; or how wide apart the frame needs to be?
www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
RJ The Bike Guy Sheldon Brown - I should have known. Thank you.
I have two schwinn varsity both were 10 speeds NOW they are both 21 speed took the 5 speed rear free wheel and installed a 7 speed free wheel and it fit great on the old 5 speed hub next took off the double front chain ring and installed a triple chain ring Bikes
sfits like dream Heard time and time again this can't work BUT IT does and I did not do all the crap measuring frame and bending things on two 40 year old bikes
Great video
Bike is cool. I would have just cleaned it up! Looks similar to a Steyr Clubman as far as same price point?
Very good channel! 👍🌹
great video rj,it's really brutal prying the frame apart & could have sworn i heard it ping as you were pushing on the timber :),would look even better if you swapped the cottered cranks for more modern square taper cranks after all you went to all that trouble to upgrade the gears & derailer,would round off everything nicely :) (cottered cranks are more trouble than theyr'e worth) :(
neil crompton It's really not that big of a deal to bend a steel frame. It is only being bent millimeters. I replaced the crankset in another video.
should be sweet ride then?,the best of both worlds,old & the new :)
You're the best! Thank you for the info.🔧👍
RJ, very good how-to. Do you also have a video where you put the shifters onto the handlebars using the same kind of integrated brake/shifters that modern bikes use instead of downtube or bar end ones?
Joe Perillo like this? ua-cam.com/video/SJJyl0xPrJ0/v-deo.html
RJ The Bike Guy Thanks RJ! This is going to be a big help. I really enjoy your tutorials.
No ferrules on the cables? I sometimes wonder if they are necessary.
They help keep the cable centered, and the end of the housing from mushrooming out.
I like the bike higher on the bike stand while working...its easier on the back...this is a good video..l am working on a five speed Raleigh from the same period...was hoping to convert it to a ten speed..but there is no holders for the deraileur cable for the new front double cog...bummer..!
You can find clamp on cable stops. May have to mount cable guide on bottom bracket shell.
@@RJTheBikeGuy brilliant...l will look into that..thanks..ps are you not afraid of standing on thumb tacks (or worse) with no shoes...?
Thanks again - I enjoy your videos. I'd seen the other one on spreading the rear triangle with the home-made tool and a good tip on this one using the 2 x 4. Could there be a home-made tool to do the job of the Park Tool drop-out aligner? Maybe two threaded steel rods with bolts either side of each drop-out and a bolt at each end?
Probably something could be made.
Steel is real!
was very helpful thanks
Damn this bike is nice!
Please turn down the gain on your microphone. It is really hard to listen sometimes...😎
Instead of using the seat tube as the fulcrum point wouldn't it be safer for the frame to place a block of wood or something near the seat tube and use it instead?
Very little pressure is needed.
Hey RJ! I have a 1978 Raleigh Record Ace, and I plan on doing some upgrading like you’re doing. I’m going up to a 6 speed rear freewheel, Shimano 14-28, and I need a derailleur. I’m just hoping you can help guide me towards something that will work for my bike if you get the opportunity!
Thanks for the great videos!
A long list of derailleurs that work. Al depending what you want to do. You will have to do research. I don't do those recommends.
How does the weight compared using the aluminum wheels versus the original steel wheels? I have a vintage steel road bike and I was considering putting aluminum 700c wheels on it and changing it to a seven speed freewheel and modern indexed shifting instead of the 6-speed
Hi R.J
The 'T' in Huret is silent.
HTH
Brilliant video.
Trying to pronounce French names is a no win situation. Someone will still complain.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Usually the French. LOL
As usual, excellent instructional video...What I don’t understand is that we have 77 incredibly stupid people who saw the video and didn’t like it, mind boggling.
Great videos.
Do you need a longer cage when changing to more gears?
ua-cam.com/video/9R1CVWcgu_M/v-deo.html
Thank you so much RJ. Life is a school. Always learning.
I need help installing the original simplex I own a uo-18 mixte I got tired of single speeding I commute on the daily basis so I bought the original derailleurs 😕
How do I know which way to turn the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur? Is it the same direction for all bikes?
YOU ARE AWESOME!!! THANKS!
What is the part number of the Shimano freewheel?
You must have really dirty socks and a lot of empty soda cans haha
How to straight bended rear fork? I mean the tow frames below pipes 😊
ua-cam.com/video/StUTN4Bb2zI/v-deo.html
seemed like you could have stuck one of those expanding car jacks shaped like in the frame to spread it a bit might save you on wailing on it with a bit of wood.
That would just expand it, not compensate for the fact the frame was out of alignment.
6:32 this is a mistake! Dont use the 2" side of a 2x4 to open up the frame! On a really light Reynolds 531 or Columbus frame this might dent the seat tube! Use the 4" side of the 2x4 to spread the force over a wider area!
I need that tool for alignment
RJ,
Great video and nice vintage bike :-)
I know you made this some time ago but do you remember if the wheels came with QR axles ? My Grand Prix is on bolts and I was wondering on the practicality of changing to QR on dropouts designed for bolts ?
I think they had QR wheels. And you can change from bolt on wheels to QR wheels.
Dear RJ : is it possible to know more on the derailer hanger that you’ve installed in order to update to Shimano? Thank you!
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PT8M8C/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Do bike shops have decals for older bikes?
Would you not do the parallel dropout test first? Because the point where the alignment tool measures could end being different if the dropouts are paralleled after alignment.
+Rob Dunford The angle of the dropouts would probably not effect the frame alignment measurement by much unless they were way off.