For anybody watching this, and wondering, I used the following translation from Google Translate, in order to understand the text. It's not perfect, but maybe better than nothing. Guide to cleaning and reassembling a pair of 38mm mikuno bdst ua-cam.com/video/FAXogAxm_ZY/v-deo.html First, get yourself two pretty dirty BDSTs, the revision kit and possibly all the other worn parts (membranes, pins, starter, oring ...). This evaluation will have to be done by you, each battery has its history, its km and its wear. Dismounters in every single part, disassembling them, taking care to divide the components of the two carburetors. Left and right must continue to work with their components even after reassembly. Clean everything to the fullest. On cleaning methods I do not pronounce myself, I personally used an ultrasonic washing machine, I think it is the best that can be used to clean difficult area to reach like the internal passages of the carburetors. The difference with traditional methods is remarkable. At the end of the work you should get about this result... We proceed with replacement. Take the right body and reassemble … Guillotine and pulverizer sliding guide (let's not forget the ooring) We turn the body upside down and assemble … Idle speed adjustment screw screw adjusting the minimum supply circuit turret for jets (minimum and maximum). Look out that the gasket remains in place valved fuel column Needle and Float Finally, gasket and tray. Let's put it back straight and assemble … Cover and close. Let's go to the right side and reassemble the enricher Now we pass on the left side and go to reassemble the starter. I will replace it officially, the plastic tips will wear out, not allowing a perfect closure, enriching the carburation throughout the entire span in an uncontrolled manner. Also check that the metal plate is free of scratches, oxidize and lubricate well with vaseline oil. Repeat all the passages on the other body and as soon as you have them both ready we will go to reassemble them. Let's prepare everything, then closing screws, centering pawls, lever activates starter and T petrol and supra-level entry. Let's start with the starters. Pull them by hand, and insert the operating lever between the sliders. First on the right body, and then in the left one. Lightly grease the sliders, just as soon as they are just greasy, so that they slide freely We always insert the T in the body on the right, insert the plastic draft of the starter and insert the starter of the left body in the draft bar. Pay attention to the position of the T which from this moment is no longer modifiable. Insert the centering pawls, bring the two bodies closer by centering the two springs of the synchronizer slider. It's a bit rognosetto job, you'll have to help yourself with a pair of tiny tweezers to be able to compress the clip Well, the two carburetor bodies are officially re-formed together! Now you need to fix them, insert the two sealing screws, taking care to put a dash of medium threads on the threads, and do not forget the starter sheath stop Replacement completed! Now they are ready to be reassembled under your bike, obviously they need a butterfly alignment to be carried out with the vacuum gauges and an adjustment of the idle speed I advise you to respect the tightening torques written on the manual, they are very small screws and threads, screwed on aluminum, and very easy to do damage. In addition, during the disassembly phases it is preferable to use plenty of unlockers and, inserts for modular T-keys in place of the classic screwdrivers, so as to reduce the risk of ruining the heads or worse, of cutting portions of lives on the bodies.
Too bad there aren't english captions, but at least it gives me an idea of what to expect when I tackle mine. (People following me complained that my bike stinks and throws out the occasional puffs of black smoke)
Bene il funk, belle foto, purtroppo non ho trovato quello che speravo.. ho 2 carburatori simili su una suzuki sv, vorrei sbloccare un po il meccanismo di apertura del gas che é diventato lentissimo in rilascio. Ci riuscirò Grazie lo stesso
Complimenti per il video, proprio ben fatto! Una domanda: sto revisionando questi carburatori per una Ducati SS, smistando gli arricchitori si è rotto il supporto in plastica grigio, negli esplosi Ducati non lo dà come ricambio, come posso fare? Quello della Yamaha TDM è compatibile? Grazie
Ciao grazie mille per i complimenti! Assolutamente si, sono gli stessi carburatori per ducati ss, per tdm, per xtz750 e per tante altre moto, cambia esclusivamente la taratura (quindi dimensioni di getti, polverizzatori e spilli). Per questi carburatori puoi trovare tutto sul sito Kedo.de, ti metto il link qui sotto del pezzo da te richiesto.
Complimenti per il video , io ho ripulito i carburatori della mia tdm cambiando anche le memrane ma continua a singhiozzare fino ai 3000, dopo i 3000 va una scheggia...le sto provando tutte ma il problema rimane...
Hai sostituito gli starter? E' molto probabile tu abbia la moto grassa su quel range, prova a chiudere di mezzo giro le viti miscela e vedi se la situazione migliora. Se non hai disassemblato la batteria carburatori e quindi non hai verificato l'usura degli starter, la risposta sta lì ;)
Ciao, grazie bel video. Pensi che una pulizia completa senza ultrasuoni, con solvente-petrolio bianco, spazzolino e acqua corrente possa essere sufficiente?
@@darioborrelli4845 - Ciao... finalmente sono riuscito a smontarli e a pulirli. Anche senza gli ultrasuoni ha funzionato, anche se dura di piú. Nel video dici che quella placchetta metallica che si trova a fianco del pistoncino dello starter (3:20) deve essere priva di graffi e di ossido. Le mie hanno leggerissimi graffi paralleli alla sua corsa e leggeri scolorimenti, ma al tatto é liscio e sembra scorrere bene montato. Mi consigli di cambiarli, il pericolo é che potrebbe gripparsi il pistoncino? Questi ultimi li cambio. Grazie
For anybody watching this, and wondering, I used the following translation from Google Translate, in order to understand the text. It's not perfect, but maybe better than nothing.
Guide to cleaning and reassembling a pair of 38mm mikuno bdst
ua-cam.com/video/FAXogAxm_ZY/v-deo.html
First, get yourself two pretty dirty BDSTs, the revision kit and possibly all the other worn parts (membranes, pins, starter, oring ...). This evaluation will have to be done by you, each battery has its history, its km and its wear.
Dismounters in every single part, disassembling them, taking care to divide the components of the two carburetors. Left and right must continue to work with their components even after reassembly.
Clean everything to the fullest. On cleaning methods I do not pronounce myself, I personally used an ultrasonic washing machine, I think it is the best that can be used to clean difficult area to reach like the internal passages of the carburetors. The difference with traditional methods is remarkable.
At the end of the work you should get about this result...
We proceed with replacement. Take the right body and reassemble …
Guillotine and pulverizer sliding guide (let's not forget the ooring)
We turn the body upside down and assemble …
Idle speed adjustment screw
screw adjusting the minimum supply circuit
turret for jets (minimum and maximum). Look out that the gasket remains in place
valved fuel column
Needle and Float
Finally, gasket and tray.
Let's put it back straight and assemble …
Cover and close.
Let's go to the right side and reassemble the enricher
Now we pass on the left side and go to reassemble the starter. I will replace it officially, the plastic tips will wear out, not allowing a perfect closure, enriching the carburation throughout the entire span in an uncontrolled manner. Also check that the metal plate is free of scratches, oxidize and lubricate well with vaseline oil.
Repeat all the passages on the other body and as soon as you have them both ready we will go to reassemble them. Let's prepare everything, then closing screws, centering pawls, lever activates starter and T petrol and supra-level entry.
Let's start with the starters. Pull them by hand, and insert the operating lever between the sliders. First on the right body, and then in the left one. Lightly grease the sliders, just as soon as they are just greasy, so that they slide freely
We always insert the T in the body on the right, insert the plastic draft of the starter and insert the starter of the left body in the draft bar. Pay attention to the position of the T which from this moment is no longer modifiable.
Insert the centering pawls, bring the two bodies closer by centering the two springs of the synchronizer slider. It's a bit rognosetto job, you'll have to help yourself with a pair of tiny tweezers to be able to compress the clip
Well, the two carburetor bodies are officially re-formed together! Now you need to fix them, insert the two sealing screws, taking care to put a dash of medium threads on the threads, and do not forget the starter sheath stop
Replacement completed! Now they are ready to be reassembled under your bike, obviously they need a butterfly alignment to be carried out with the vacuum gauges and an adjustment of the idle speed
I advise you to respect the tightening torques written on the manual, they are very small screws and threads, screwed on aluminum, and very easy to do damage. In addition, during the disassembly phases it is preferable to use plenty of unlockers and, inserts for modular T-keys in place of the classic screwdrivers, so as to reduce the risk of ruining the heads or worse, of cutting portions of lives on the bodies.
Ottimo lavoro i miei complimenti
Grazie!
Tanti bei lavori sul tuo canale, complimenti!
@@darioborrelli4845 ti ringrazio...ma tu qui hai fatto un lavoro di classe😀
molto utile grazie!
Bellissimo, grazie!
Too bad there aren't english captions, but at least it gives me an idea of what to expect when I tackle mine. (People following me complained that my bike stinks and throws out the occasional puffs of black smoke)
Bello e utile!!!
Grazie!
Grazie. !
Bene il funk, belle foto, purtroppo non ho trovato quello che speravo.. ho 2 carburatori simili su una suzuki sv, vorrei sbloccare un po il meccanismo di apertura del gas che é diventato lentissimo in rilascio. Ci riuscirò Grazie lo stesso
Complimenti per il video, proprio ben fatto! Una domanda: sto revisionando questi carburatori per una Ducati SS, smistando gli arricchitori si è rotto il supporto in plastica grigio, negli esplosi Ducati non lo dà come ricambio, come posso fare? Quello della Yamaha TDM è compatibile?
Grazie
Ciao grazie mille per i complimenti!
Assolutamente si, sono gli stessi carburatori per ducati ss, per tdm, per xtz750 e per tante altre moto, cambia esclusivamente la taratura (quindi dimensioni di getti, polverizzatori e spilli).
Per questi carburatori puoi trovare tutto sul sito Kedo.de, ti metto il link qui sotto del pezzo da te richiesto.
www.kedo.de/com/ssl/php/art_detail.php?f_page=ArtDetail&f_param=29192&f_sub=28&PHPSESSID=e9efb4lf22sp748e8vrqcjldd6
@@darioborrelli4845 grazie a te! Ottimo!
Complimenti per il video , io ho ripulito i carburatori della mia tdm cambiando anche le memrane ma continua a singhiozzare fino ai 3000, dopo i 3000 va una scheggia...le sto provando tutte ma il problema rimane...
Hai sostituito gli starter?
E' molto probabile tu abbia la moto grassa su quel range, prova a chiudere di mezzo giro le viti miscela e vedi se la situazione migliora.
Se non hai disassemblato la batteria carburatori e quindi non hai verificato l'usura degli starter, la risposta sta lì ;)
Mi da errore quando cerco di aprire il link del manuale d'uso, qualcuno riuscirebbe a mandarmelo? Grazie mille
Scrivimi via mail che te lo giro ;)
Ciao, grazie bel video. Pensi che una pulizia completa senza ultrasuoni, con solvente-petrolio bianco, spazzolino e acqua corrente possa essere sufficiente?
Dipende dallo stato dei tuoi carburatori
@@darioborrelli4845 - Ciao... finalmente sono riuscito a smontarli e a pulirli. Anche senza gli ultrasuoni ha funzionato, anche se dura di piú.
Nel video dici che quella placchetta metallica che si trova a fianco del pistoncino dello starter (3:20) deve essere priva di graffi e di ossido. Le mie hanno leggerissimi graffi paralleli alla sua corsa e leggeri scolorimenti, ma al tatto é liscio e sembra scorrere bene montato. Mi consigli di cambiarli, il pericolo é che potrebbe gripparsi il pistoncino? Questi ultimi li cambio. Grazie
Ciao, posso contattarti in privato? avrei delle info da chiederti
Grazie mille!
Certo, scrivimi su infodarioborrelli@gmail.com
ciao...ho provato a contattarti su email ...se cortesemente mi potresti rispondere grazie ...!!!