Tip on the Heat Wrap, soak it in water before installing. Making it wet will allows the material stretches a small mount which makes for a much tighter fit and easier to install.
On the header wrap once it gets wet and dirt on it, it kinda glues itself to the headers. I found that if you use 2000•F ceramic paint then get wrap pre wet before installing it saves the headers if you ever have to take the wrap off. Many reasons for taking it off lol, putting a new wrap on it gets shredded by the road or a rock. But first video I’ve watched and love the build so far! Keep it up!
Bumper cutout turned out well, I think a gloss black one would be good to match the bumper but, as you say, it won't make the car any faster so the current one will be fine.
10:07 You could also machine a distributor down and build the hall-effect sensor into belt/pulley area of a normal 964/993 dual distributor, than just cap that.
@@islandworksDo you get enough resolution with that small diameter and only one rather large bolt? Normal timing gears are usually a large wheel with lots of teeth and the one missing to set a location. That way a sensor will read the angle much more accurately? Here you get one datapoint every rotation.
First time viewer, been watching many videos on UA-cam, the way you explain all you do it's right on ! I just dropped a 3.6 from 964 in my 86 Carerra,I'm very interested in what you did w your engine,do you have any descriptions and sources for the ignition (Coil On Plugs) ,csnt wait to gear that amazing sound! Keep up w the great work! You've got a fan in Vegas!
Hi Jonas just be careful about the heat wrap and moisture, they do keep moisture in and eventually eat away headers I’ve seen it myself plenty of times on plenty of race cars, honestly after many years building race cars I always advice against it. I would gladly ceramic coat them for you but distance/shipping would end up being worst than the coat itself, best regards jake
I can see a potential hazard with getting oil drips on them catching fire. I’m just in the process of doing a back to back with ceramic coating to see if I should switch. Will film it also…
You could ask an offer for ceramic coating from Martelius. They are Finland based company and I know that they have made coatings and might have relatively good prices too.
Hi Jonas, you might want to look into adding some RSR style plug retainers to hold in those COPs, at least the bottom ones. They are cheap and light and would remove any worry of them becoming loose over time as the rubber ages, as you have vibration and gravity working against you. 😅
I had those on my previous build in the bottom. In that iteration I had different coils with a much different fit. I’ll run with this for a while and see if I need to beef it up a bit!
hi mate i am suprised you dont use bosch coils like we use on the rotary engines with microtech use 6 coils mount them in cool area with leads way better larger longer lasting take up less room no need to worry about them moving and falling out
Ceramic coat whole exhaust and put DEI Reflect a gold tape on the bottom of the carbon ”tub” that faces the exhaust backbox. Then use that foil that you had between the exhaust and coils. Heat wrap is ugly and heavy solution to problem that has better more modern solutions available. ps. Please I hope you used proper plastic to that hall sensor placement. It should take at least 150c° before glass transition. If it is PLA, your engine has lifespan of 1 minute.
I would be happy to ceramic coat it, but couldn’t find anyone to do it. The red hall sensor mount is a test piece. As I mentioned, it will be made out of aluminum.
@@islandworks Since it will not be extremely hot in this area, I would go for aluminium tape. Works (nearly) as good, looks more discrete, and is a lot cheaper.
Yikes, kinda aggressive using a jigsaw on carbon/kevlar xD rotary tool with small cutoff discs would probably have been smoother :) Anyways great with another video, following your build all the way from Denmark :)
@@islandworks that's cool, if it's there, why not. however, there is no power advantage to sequential ignition over wasted spark. if you are trying to tune for fuel efficency, it's great but no difference for power. great series, love binging it like a new season of GOT.
Tip on the Heat Wrap, soak it in water before installing. Making it wet will allows the material stretches a small mount which makes for a much tighter fit and easier to install.
That's a good tip thanks!
On the header wrap once it gets wet and dirt on it, it kinda glues itself to the headers. I found that if you use 2000•F ceramic paint then get wrap pre wet before installing it saves the headers if you ever have to take the wrap off. Many reasons for taking it off lol, putting a new wrap on it gets shredded by the road or a rock. But first video I’ve watched and love the build so far! Keep it up!
Zircotec for the thermal barrier coating on the exhaust headers. Buy once, cry once.
They have other thermal management products also
“Buy once, cry once” I like it ;-)
For the coatings, ask Martelius-Exhaust here in Finland!
Bumper cutout turned out well, I think a gloss black one would be good to match the bumper but, as you say, it won't make the car any faster so the current one will be fine.
Each and every detail is so impressive with this build and also the filming, comments and editing is top notch!
Glad you like it!
I like the bumper cutout cap. Glue it in and move on to the next big thing 😬
Bara att du skickar det till oss på High End Coatings i Örebro så blir det keramiskt behandlat 😃👍
Ena kröken är på väg redan!
10:07 You could also machine a distributor down and build the hall-effect sensor into belt/pulley area of a normal 964/993 dual distributor, than just cap that.
I did just that on my Alfa 105.
I’ve seen that as well. But feels less elegant with the gear drive rather than the existing location on the camshaft.
@@islandworksDo you get enough resolution with that small diameter and only one rather large bolt? Normal timing gears are usually a large wheel with lots of teeth and the one missing to set a location. That way a sensor will read the angle much more accurately? Here you get one datapoint every rotation.
First time viewer, been watching many videos on UA-cam, the way you explain all you do it's right on ! I just dropped a 3.6 from 964 in my 86 Carerra,I'm very interested in what you did w your engine,do you have any descriptions and sources for the ignition (Coil On Plugs) ,csnt wait to gear that amazing sound! Keep up w the great work! You've got a fan in Vegas!
Welcome aboard!
Hi Jonas just be careful about the heat wrap and moisture, they do keep moisture in and eventually eat away headers I’ve seen it myself plenty of times on plenty of race cars, honestly after many years building race cars I always advice against it. I would gladly ceramic coat them for you but distance/shipping would end up being worst than the coat itself, best regards jake
I can see a potential hazard with getting oil drips on them catching fire. I’m just in the process of doing a back to back with ceramic coating to see if I should switch. Will film it also…
Great to see a new episode. Almost 10k subs, still way too little.
Quality as always
Thanks! I’m still waiting for the last few to join before I break 10k :-)
Fantastiskt bygge, har nyligen hittat din kanal! Har nu sett alla avsnitt på tre veckor - grymt imponerad!!
Kul att du tittar!
You could ask an offer for ceramic coating from Martelius. They are Finland based company and I know that they have made coatings and might have relatively good prices too.
Hi Jonas, you might want to look into adding some RSR style plug retainers to hold in those COPs, at least the bottom ones. They are cheap and light and would remove any worry of them becoming loose over time as the rubber ages, as you have vibration and gravity working against you. 😅
I had those on my previous build in the bottom. In that iteration I had different coils with a much different fit. I’ll run with this for a while and see if I need to beef it up a bit!
I hope to see the car running this year. This project is so amazing.
I'm looking forward to cranking the engine for the first time this year!
your work is legit
Thanks!
Favourite uploads - love it when there is a new one! :)
Another great video. Engine build is progressing right along. I learned something new from the heat wraps. Keep up the great work. Ken
Thanks, will do!
Nice ! I was just looking if you dropped another video that i missed the other day 👍
It was long overdue!
Great episode! Good to see you cracking on!
Still working one the panels in the background!
Look up Thermo Tech, a German company that heat insulates headers, it's pretty fancy and high quality
New upload! Yesssssss
Love your work as always.
You can also clip your microphone to the side of your hat!
That’s a good idea! I’ll try that
hi mate i am suprised you dont use bosch coils like we use on the rotary engines with microtech use 6 coils mount them in cool area with leads way better larger longer lasting take up less room no need to worry about them moving and falling out
I'm not sure I know what could those are?
I'm guessing it's similar to an LS coil
Quality episode again, you’re good at this. And yes - you deserve more subs! I’m already thinking - you better have another project lined up… :)
Plenty of more ideas still to tap into...
Great video. What exhaust muffler is that? What are the dimensions? Looking for an option for my 1983 3.6 993 vario ram swap.
It’s from TT exhaust in UK
Knowledge bomb
Ceramic coat whole exhaust and put DEI Reflect a gold tape on the bottom of the carbon ”tub” that faces the exhaust backbox. Then use that foil that you had between the exhaust and coils. Heat wrap is ugly and heavy solution to problem that has better more modern solutions available.
ps. Please I hope you used proper plastic to that hall sensor placement. It should take at least 150c° before glass transition. If it is PLA, your engine has lifespan of 1 minute.
I would be happy to ceramic coat it, but couldn’t find anyone to do it.
The red hall sensor mount is a test piece. As I mentioned, it will be made out of aluminum.
Loving this build!
You could put some gold tape on the fabricated bumper insert to ensure that it survives a little better from the heat?
I need it at least on the entire inside! I'll try this one the way it is to start and swap it and improve if needed.
@@islandworks Since it will not be extremely hot in this area, I would go for aluminium tape. Works (nearly) as good, looks more discrete, and is a lot cheaper.
I have heard that those metal "zip ties" used on the wrap aren't very secure. Many recommend proper clamps instead. Love the progress!
The straps I found were crap... I need to find something else!
Maybe try cv boot clamps
Stainless steel wire with the ends twisted together, but maybe more functional than nice looks
Skitsnyggt, inte mkt orginal där inte! Har du själv gjort kåpan till fläkten i koolfiber?
Den kommer från @driftmotouk
nice work! where will you put the oil tank? on my car its a challenge with outside routing headers
My tank is in the front. There’s a few episodes around it and all the craziness involved.
@@islandworks oh i missed them! sorry! good! :D
The headers are stainless, right? The wrap is really hard on mild steel.
Yes, proper stainless.
amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
I’d go with a Cerakote ‘heat shield’ for the exhaust pass through the bumper.
To paint the plastic you mean?
@@islandworks just a small metal heat shield to disapate the heat, cerakote to add heat protection and colour match the bumper.
Soak the wrap, it shrinks as it dries making it tighter.
Yikes, kinda aggressive using a jigsaw on carbon/kevlar xD rotary tool with small cutoff discs would probably have been smoother :)
Anyways great with another video, following your build all the way from Denmark :)
Yes, it felt like a bad idea and it was...
Egoistically I hope you’ll never finish the car :-).
I’d also learn a lot from the quality comments these videos get. Thank you all!
I have 2 more Porsches and a million ideas... Don't worry :-)
I have tagged in a company that would make ideal heat shielding on you latest instagram post
why not a simple crank sensor and just use a wasted spark set up?
Why do it twice if it's enough with once ;-)
There is already a crank sensor, and for me I want to have it sequential also for the injection.
@@islandworks that's cool, if it's there, why not. however, there is no power advantage to sequential ignition over wasted spark. if you are trying to tune for fuel efficency, it's great but no difference for power. great series, love binging it like a new season of GOT.
Promo`SM