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I’ve been watching you for a few years now on a few accounts. I’m gonna get a 964 within the next 2 years and seeing you upgrade it inspires me to be a little more confident in doing similar work when I get it. I appreciate you documenting your process & explaining why and what you’re doing. I can’t wait to see the car move soon!!

Hey man where are you gone? 😊

That’s awesome. I’m starting my same conversion next week. I’ll do the same with taking the engine out first so the 964 doesn’t fall off the lift.:-)

What if you do both? Cause thats how my manifold has been for the past 3 years lol

Any updates coming soon?

Wheres the fuckin f° translation.

Did you think about testing engine bay temps and cool down time

The stalls at the curve. If the air is hot, there’s more dwell time allowing for heat transfer.

Cerakote! Wrap will destroy your headers. Even stainless steel.

What bugs me about these ignorant tests is a total misunderstanding of how IR thermal cameras work. You CANNOT accurately capture the temp of metals without FIRST putting a consistently emissive patch of paint on BOTH samples, unless you have a camera/IR gun that has adjustable emissivity, and you make use of those feature. Your test was totally useless and meaningless. For example, Did you know that you IR gun CANNOT even see the temp of copper, stainless or aluminum? They are almost perfect IR REFLECTORS, so the temp you see is the reflection of something else in the room. And the % of reflection changes as the metals begin to glow.

Can anyone tell me what heat gun he is using. Please 🙏

great test. thanks for sharing. the temp gun I have doesn't seem to be as accurate on non metallic surfaces.

Nice channel though and car but testing is not good

Very amaturist testing.

You can't test it like that you have to put the exhaust on the engine with the wrap and coasting and test it twice or even four times.

Would this setup you are selling work on a 911 SC 3.0L engine?

Inget nytt på gång?

Heat tape is not designed for what you're testing. It lowers the outside temperature 500 to 700 degrees. Inside raises the temperature ! That raise in temperature pushes the air more efficiently. That's not what ceramic coat does. It just dissipates heat quickly. Problems? Solutions ? Different materials ? If you'd like to concentration pm me.

No preliminary test of an uncoated, unwrapped header for comparison?

You could adjust the fin that more air to the windows. In rainy track days it can easily fog the front windscreen

Did you make a heat shield between oiltank and fuel hoses?

Thanks for posting this. I have an '87 with the factory open diff and have been kicking around the idea of putting in an LSD but was concerned about how big of a job it'd be to get into the gearbox. Seems like the diff replacement procedure was well thought out on the G50 though!

people saying wrap will hold moister i mean maybe if corrosions happened in like 5 years you can weld over it and keep going again but coating will ruin your exhaust and you can't get good weld over

Hi, I live in Norway I would like stripping my classic car. Can you please give me the address of BS Technique? Many thanks

For the PCV, couldn't you put an oil catch can in the back of the car? You could let it drip back to the oil sump to avoid having to empty it. And to be really fancy, you could also connect the top to the intake (vaporize the fuel that ends up in the oil and avoid dilution).

Black color has maximum absorption AND radiation of heat. My professional advice would have been V-136 (Piston Coat, heat cure) for the inside of header, and C-7700 glacier silver on the outside (polished to chrome look). That what I did for my turbo and exhaust system.

Looking forward to an update 🙂

Loving this experiment just got long tube headers for my g37 sedan and I’m tryna figure out what’s the better way to go

Why not do both wrap the coated headers

exhaust temps are as high as 1300-1600f. this doesn't show that level of heat. you can't use infrared to measure heat since it's skewed by reflective surfaces. to do it right, you need a thermal camera or imaging device. infrared is the worst approach.

Be aware you will likely end up with vapour smell inside the cabin if you're using that rubber hose and not Teflon. Common complaint with internal nitrile fuel lines in motorsport builds, and with fuel dilution in oil and oil vapour you might have similar issues.

Interesting video @Islandworks and great to see the build coming on! If you have ever a chance to repeat this then a comparison with a few more options could be exciting e.g. uncoated, plasma-sprayed TBC, heat-shielding option.

The best build on UA-cam, I have been following for years!

What’s the orange tape you use?

I haven't wrapped a car's exhaust, but I have wrapped the pipes on my bike. The idea there is it's not only for heat protection and esthetics, but that it help add a small increase power and torque by keeping the hot air inside the pipes. If it's the same for cars, then it seems to me both ceramic coating and wrapping would provide the most optimal result.

Just started watching! I stripped a '67 chassis to bare metal. Getting rid of the bitumen sound deadening was by far the nastiest job in the entire restoration.

This is my dream car build.

I think you should re test with different methods as other said infrared thermometers can read surface temperatures differently based on the color of the surface. This is because different colors have different emissivities, which is a measure of a material's ability to emit infrared radiation. Darker colors typically have higher emissivities and emit more infrared radiation, which can lead to more accurate temperature readings. Lighter colors, on the other hand, have lower emissivities and emit less infrared radiation, which can result in less accurate readings. Lighter colors usually have lower surface temperatures compared to darker colors under the same conditions. This is because lighter colors reflect more sunlight and absorb less heat, while darker colors absorb more sunlight and convert it to heat, resulting in higher surface temperatures.

Really enjoy your videos. I've researched a front mount oil tank for my latest 911 project and my understanding is that the scavenge pump moves a lot of oil and air: by design it will move a lot more volume than the high pressure oil feed side of the pump. Therefore there has to be a return path for this volume of air to the crankcase, which you are providing with the vent hose. Great job on that design!

Hey Jonas, great video as always. I was thinking, would it be worth putting a pair of Dry Break Quick Release couplings on either side of your Gearbox mount and on the inlet and outlet of the engine so you can drop it easily for a clutch change etc. without having to drain and fill your Oil system every time. Those couplings look pretty expensive but it would be cheaper and easier than changing all that oil more times than is needed. All the best mate 😉👍

I think most people understand engines need the crankcase to breathe, but what are your thoughts on having a PCV actually pulling a vacuum on the crankcase?

Fantastic work, love the car, the workshop and I am green with envy. Regarding the oil pipe through mount, not an engineer, but wouldn't it be possible to get your TIG guy to weld more tube to make a little "S" in the pipe to make the angle more favourable? A little like you might with an exhaust? You have plently of spare tube, a friendly TIG welder....? Just a thought.

My favorite show on the planet is on again

You give the expert welder alot credit(and it's well deserved) but haven't heard anything about the machinist supporting you! Your machined components are absolutely beautiful aswell! För example that oilfilter/Thermostat housing!

Well done ! thanks

Sorry if I missed it, but is there a reason you can't use a VTE AOS and skip all that hose for the vent?

you can slide those an fittings on really easy if you left hand thread them in rather than using a mallet.

The oil lines are huge. Do they really need to be that big?

Helt jävla galet bygge

Just a word of caution (37yrs of Porsche race cars) we had an issue with the pump collapsing the braided lines close to the engine. We ended up running -20 lines and running a 150mm coiled wire inside to maintain the hose diameter. There is a reason why Porsche ran a hard line.