You can save yourself some grief by stripping off the axle and drum and disconnecting the parking brake cable and getting it out of the backing plate and out of the way, then taking the four backing plate nuts off and remove the entire brake assembly and backing plate in one piece and doing everything on the bench. It's much easier if you're doing brake lines too, or the wheel cylinder, because the distribution block on the axle are much easier to get to. And it gets all the crusty stuff away from the axle housing to avoid contamination of the differential.
Wow, this is some of the kind of advice I'm looking for. Thanks for sharing that info. There's so much I don't know and love getting advice from you folks with much more experience. Thank you
They were correct the first time. The meatier shoe goes in the back because it not only has the wheel cylinder pressure, it also has the pressure of the drag from the front shoe on it, so it would wear quickly if not beefier. Also, use some brake lube on adjuster and all metal to metal contact points.
Pretty sure they are still installed incorrectly. Around 9:30, you can see the difference in the upper side portion of the shoe laying to the left. There is a thick welded "cam plate" that is supposed to face outwards. If facing inward, it will cause the shoe to be cocked at a slight angle and cause drum and shoe to wear uneven. The shorter "primary" shoe is supposed to be in front. During braking the primary shoe in front tends to rotate along with the drum and away from the top anchor pin. Through the adjuster link, this transfers this force to the secondary shoe and basically jams the rear shoe in tight against the drum and anchor pin. The secondary shoe is thicker for this reason. This is a Bendix design, oem manufacturer for ford.
Wow! Thank you very much for your comment. That's the most detailed explanation I've ever heard and makes so much sense. You've obviously been working on brakes for a while. Your knowledge and info is much appreciated.
Yup, primary to the front... Years ago I went to change rear shoes on my 66 mustang, and whoever did them the last time put both primary's on one side and both secondary's on the other.
Hello Frankie , can I talk to you about a problem that you had in your skateboard with the batterie , I have the same problem that you had , my electric skateboard turns off while on ride ; even if its full charged , did you found the solution to that problem ?
There's a few vids by ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy out there among others that I found very detailed and time efficient and helpful with some cool tricks and video angles that you may wanna watch in conjunction with mine to make your jobs much easier. I didn't cover some important details that I noticed these guys did a great job of covering. They seem to have mastered the art of making their vids time efficient as well as good camera positioning so you can better see what they're doing. They also edit things to show you if they missed or forgot something. That's very helpful and time saving.
For those pain n the ass retainers...get a big flathead u dont need cut a little notch in the center with a cutting disc...enough to fit the spring and just push ......while u manuver the nail through the back ...works everytime..hope this helps someone
Thank you. I actually did go buy a big cheap screwdriver for just that reason cause someone else mentioned that to me. This was before I actually found the tool designed just for those springs. Snap-On and Matco actually both make a tool specifically for them.
terry jarrett the shoes I got all four were the same size. wat you do is look for the pin that sticks out those shoes go on right, both sides, I believe
Two Jacks on a concrete floor is safer than most commercially made "Jack Stands" I use 24" in diameter pieces of Oak Tree Trunk...they have never buckled like "Jack Stands" have...
I finally figured out how to get to my comments. The UA-cam app on my phone gives no option to respond to comments. I have to use the web page online to access comments
Does anybody else notice the park brake cable incorrectly connected to park brake lever (5:37). The shoes were correctly installed. Short primary shoe in front. You need to put the tools down and back away slowly before you kill somebody.
When I was doing this I was more concerned about getting the job done right and decided to try my shot at recording with my TELEPHONE which was what I had at the time and didn't have anyone or anything to manipulate it for me. Considering this was my first time trying to do heavy hard mechanic work while recording I think it could've been much worse as I've seen much worse. I did the best I could considering. Since I was doing it on my own time to try to help others as well I felt posting a mediocre FREE video was better than not sharing anything at all
big help for me to get my job done right thank you brother from another mother.
You can save yourself some grief by stripping off the axle and drum and disconnecting the parking brake cable and getting it out of the backing plate and out of the way, then taking the four backing plate nuts off and remove the entire brake assembly and backing plate in one piece and doing everything on the bench. It's much easier if you're doing brake lines too, or the wheel cylinder, because the distribution block on the axle are much easier to get to. And it gets all the crusty stuff away from the axle housing to avoid contamination of the differential.
Wow, this is some of the kind of advice I'm looking for. Thanks for sharing that info. There's so much I don't know and love getting advice from you folks with much more experience. Thank you
😀Thank You Frankie Rodriguez Jr, this video helped me a lot to help my Dad fixing our 1994 Ford Van.
That's awesome Carter Anubis. I'm grateful it helped someone. Cheers.
They were correct the first time. The meatier shoe goes in the back because it not only has the wheel cylinder pressure, it also has the pressure of the drag from the front shoe on it, so it would wear quickly if not beefier. Also, use some brake lube on adjuster and all metal to metal contact points.
Thank you for your input. Much appreciated.
Pretty sure they are still installed incorrectly.
Around 9:30, you can see the difference in the upper side portion of the shoe laying to the left. There is a thick welded "cam plate" that is supposed to face outwards. If facing inward, it will cause the shoe to be cocked at a slight angle and cause drum and shoe to wear uneven.
The shorter "primary" shoe is supposed to be in front. During braking the primary shoe in front tends to rotate along with the drum and away from the top anchor pin. Through the adjuster link, this transfers this force to the secondary shoe and basically jams the rear shoe in tight against the drum and anchor pin. The secondary shoe is thicker for this reason. This is a Bendix design, oem manufacturer for ford.
Wow! Thank you very much for your comment. That's the most detailed explanation I've ever heard and makes so much sense. You've obviously been working on brakes for a while. Your knowledge and info is much appreciated.
Yup, primary to the front...
Years ago I went to change rear shoes on my 66 mustang, and whoever did them the last time put both primary's on one side and both secondary's on the other.
Thanks for giving Me a look, I'm off taa do it tomorrow am replaceing wheel cylinder!!!!!!
Hello Frankie , can I talk to you about a problem that you had in your skateboard with the batterie , I have the same problem that you had , my electric skateboard turns off while on ride ; even if its full charged , did you found the solution to that problem ?
There's a few vids by ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy out there among others that I found very detailed and time efficient and helpful with some cool tricks and video angles that you may wanna watch in conjunction with mine to make your jobs much easier. I didn't cover some important details that I noticed these guys did a great job of covering. They seem to have mastered the art of making their vids time efficient as well as good camera positioning so you can better see what they're doing. They also edit things to show you if they missed or forgot something. That's very helpful and time saving.
For those pain n the ass retainers...get a big flathead u dont need cut a little notch in the center with a cutting disc...enough to fit the spring and just push ......while u manuver the nail through the back ...works everytime..hope this helps someone
Thank you. I actually did go buy a big cheap screwdriver for just that reason cause someone else mentioned that to me. This was before I actually found the tool designed just for those springs. Snap-On and Matco actually both make a tool specifically for them.
masterjoe3000 any chance you'll have a picture of the notch? Or the actual tool? I'm doing my 97 f250. I can not get those clips back on
masterjoe3000 what's your email
Too bad that you went and change this. You had it right the first time.
Darren Jennings
exactly, he had them correct the first time, duuuuuh
i jus did mine today super hard dam small springs
I agree. Those little springs are no joke
The Primary shoe is shorter, it go's facing front. The Seconder shoe is longer it go's facing rear.
terry jarrett
the shoes I got all four were the same size. wat you do is look for the pin that sticks out those shoes go on right, both sides, I believe
I wanted to see you take off springs, darnit man
thanks great info
Please use jack stands. Working on something supported by only floor jacks is not safe. Dont want to see you get hurt!
Hes got two tho.... and hes not under it. I'll allow it
Two Jacks on a concrete floor is safer than most commercially made "Jack Stands" I use 24" in diameter pieces of Oak Tree Trunk...they have never buckled like "Jack Stands" have...
I finally figured out how to get to my comments. The UA-cam app on my phone gives no option to respond to comments. I have to use the web page online to access comments
primary goes to the front
doyle hodge
he doesn't HAVE to pop out pins, those are preset, help this guy somebody
wow back off on the zoom !
Does anybody else notice the park brake cable incorrectly connected to park brake lever (5:37). The shoes were correctly installed. Short primary shoe in front. You need to put the tools down and back away slowly before you kill somebody.
work on your camera skills
When I was doing this I was more concerned about getting the job done right and decided to try my shot at recording with my TELEPHONE which was what I had at the time and didn't have anyone or anything to manipulate it for me. Considering this was my first time trying to do heavy hard mechanic work while recording I think it could've been much worse as I've seen much worse. I did the best I could considering. Since I was doing it on my own time to try to help others as well I felt posting a mediocre FREE video was better than not sharing anything at all
sorry can't see shit ! bye