Thank you for your video. Our motorhome is a E 450 Ford chassis. Rear brake sensor is making a noise, so I'm going to replace everything like you did. Thanks for showing how to remove the brake caliper pins. I've never encountered anything like that. That was a big help. Again a huge thank you for the video, your info is invaluable. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this helpful video. I would know how to replace the pads & caliper but not the rotor. Now I am going to change all the parts confidently by watching your great video & explanation.
For the E torx heres a tip. Get a map torch from home depot (not expensive) and heat up the hub in the area that the torx bolt goes into. Not the rotor, just that sleeve shaped part along the sides. This loosens the grip and lock tite on the torx bolt threads and makes removing it much easier.
When using battery impacts, using 1/2" adds a little more weight to the gun torque slap. Example, a thicker 1/2" drive impact socket versus a thinner 3/8" drive socket. Hard to believe that subtle change will make a difference but it does.
Perfect like these two I know hard thing is to get the back tires off you explained everything perfect appreciate the video and I've done it before it's just one truck be different from the other one a little bit from a 99 to a 2004 to 2005 whether it be a gas engine or diesel you know
Do NOT loosten the nut after the clicking stops. There is a preload in a tapered roller and far more of them fail from being too loose than too tight. If the hub turns too freely it is WRONG. There is to be a slight drag.
why do you grease the bearings when they are bather from the read diff fluid that floods the axle and washes out the grease and changes the composition of the rear diff fluid after the mix up.. ?
I appreciate your making and sharing this video. Excellent work. Was there a reason that you didn't say what to torque the bolts to? Did you not use a torque wrench?
There is so many things wrong with this video, that’s not how you pack a bearing ,that is not bearing greases ,that’s not how a bearing endplay is set and most importantly it’s an oil system not grease now oil and grease will be mixing so please no one do any of this .
i agree with setting the bearing as i have the official ford book for that and it shows a procedure with a few steps he missed including measuring how much force it takes to spin the hub but im willing to bet he is driving it just fine and im grateful for a video of this quality that puts everything into perspective. his grease is fine everybodys a packologist, it just has to fully be embedded into the crevices perhaps till some comes out the other side.
If you go into that hub again, its probably worth it to remove the inside grease seal, to pack that bearing too. I push the edge of the bearing into a pile of grease until it comes out pasts the rollers
I did both sides and I did replace the seal on the other side, but it did not need replacing and was a lot of extra work to get out and then put the new one back in. So on this side it was also like new so I did not replace it. The guy I got it from had it for 12 years and had the ambulance company replace all that not to long before but then he had the truck sitting for over 8 months. I think that is what froze the breaks up sitting so long. But, the bearings and seals did not have a lot of miles on them. The truck also has a newer 7.3 motor that only has around 53k miles on it right now and most all the motor parts were replated as well even the radiator was replaced with a new one at that time. I was given the paperwork for the new motor it was direct from Ford with a new Turbo as well.
Did you refill the differential with recommended gear lube to replenish oil lost when you pulled the hub? Otherwise your gears in the rear end might not be getting sufficient lubrication. Hoping you replaced inner wheel seal as well, while you didn’t mention that hopefully you did.
It's 100× easier to remove the two bolts that attach the caliper carrier to the axle with an 18mm impact swivel socket, especially if you're replacing the caliper. In some suspension configurations the leaf springs completely block the upper caliper slider bolts.
This type of caliper there isnt two bolts for the bracket. The bracket is made to the axle. Ive done both types and this one is a bit more time consuming. Just a fyi
I have a 2003 E-450 super duty with Aluminum box truck but heavy loaded permanently. with ABS 6 wheels disk brakes. I need replaces calipers, pad and rotors. I was wondering if it is better to buy original from Ford Dealer or if there is better Brake kits aftermarket?
I could be wrong but your leaf springs look shot. They are inverted. I have a 1991 E350 that looks same. Gonna put a fresh pack of leafs (and cast mounts, drilling the frame) for a pair off an F450. The stamped ones rust away, the cast (450/550) don't.
E series rear springs don't have an arch to them. I've owned 95,97,98 E350 passenger vans and a 06 E-350 shuttle bus. The 98 I have rebuilt all the suspension no real noticeable difference, still mostly flat. My F250 and F350 both obs, have a good arch to them. Springs are different between E and F series. Spring hangers are the same.
The truck has around 250k miles on it but i do not know when the last time the rotor was replaced. I would think it has been replaced a few times in the past. I got it from a guy who used it as a locksmith truck and he had got it from the Ambo place years before. The locksmith guy paid to have a new motor and turbo put in that has less then 55k miles on it right now. Also lots of new motor parts also got replaced at the same time. It runs great.
Hey it has been a year or so since you have done this but I would like to point out that your old seal was leaking gear oil. You should have changed your seal while you had the hub off.
Hey I am happy you got my message. At 8:15, if you look at the inside of your rotor you will see oil residue that should not be there. Don’t be confused with the fresh oil that appeared while disassembling but the dried oil that has coated the rotor. Also, since you have no evidence of oil leaks it could be because it is low on oil. Most of the time the breather tube is clogged and causes pressure on the seal which then causes premature failure. Worth a look at least for piece of mind.
On my '97 F-Super Duty they were #18 E-Torx or star heads. When I got the rotor and hub off and found those star heads, I had to drop everything and go to town and find some. The local O'Reillys, Napa, and Autozone did not have it. Luckily Home Depot had a set that went up to #20. Looks like a regular socket, but the hole is 6 point star.
@@mynomadtravellife How about the parts then..I'm just trying to wrap my head around the cost of the parts..that would tell me what I'm in for my 2010 Ford E350 superduty flex fuel shuttle bus. Thanks!😇😇😇😉😉
@@cherilcooper289 I did each side one at a time so I got parts as needed from a local Napa store. I did not buy them all at once. Just look up all the parts you need on their website to see the price. Some items I had to wait a few days for it to come in to the store. I do think prices have went up now to. I just paid $36 for one bulb replacement for a special tail light bulb on my ambulance I just got it that did not fix the problem.
You could have used a wire brush or grinder to “clean and grind the mounting area for the caliper and you don’t need to hammer the calipers in. Being tight like that will cause the caliper to stick
Good vid - clean ! No BS/wasted time ! I'll be referencing this vid to do my new-to-me Winnebago C class motorhome . Thanks ! Did you use a manual for torque settings ?
I have to say, that you’re spot on. Doing that job without replacing that seal, means it is gonna have to come apart again soon, as it will leak gear oil all over the brake assembly.
YOU SHOULD HAVE CLEANED THE AREA WHERE THE PADS TOUCH THE ANCHOR. THERE SHOULD BE CLEARANCE ON THE EDGE OF THE PADS INSTEAD OF HAMMERING THE PADS IN. YOUR BRAKE JOB WILL NOT LAST AS LONG AS IT SHOULD.
I made this video years ago back on Apr 30, 2021 and I am still using the brakes I put in. They have lasted for years now with no problems. We drive the truck 4 to 5 time a week driving to jobs for our business.
Bro who thought you how to pack a bearing cause that's 100% not how to pack a bearing and makes me question your whole video. Learn to do it right before making a video
Been driving it a few times a week for over two years now after I did that with no problems. I learned how to it from watching other videos from Auto shops that show how they do it.
I have been dreading doing the rear brakes on my 450 dump truck, but now I’m a bit more confident after watching your video, thank you.
Thank you for your video. Our motorhome is a E 450 Ford chassis. Rear brake sensor is making a noise, so I'm going to replace everything like you did. Thanks for showing how to remove the brake caliper pins. I've never encountered anything like that. That was a big help. Again a huge thank you for the video, your info is invaluable. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video ! I have an '02 E450... I appreciate the lesson
Thank you for this helpful video. I would know how to replace the pads & caliper but not the rotor. Now I am going to change all the parts confidently by watching your great video & explanation.
Awesome great job doing it soon but doing axle seal and everything else on my bucket truck thanks for the tech tips .
Thanks for the info ❗I Didn't know the pins held it all together.👍👍👍
Great job very good educational video thanks for the help
Hi, good job.
And good explaining about the big rear brake truck, thank you, keep up.
Chicago, ill
1
Cool video
I'm doing my 17ft. Uhaul box truck in a couple of weeks I'm going to do rotors calipers shoes and seals 👍 thanks for sharing
For the E torx heres a tip. Get a map torch from home depot (not expensive) and heat up the hub in the area that the torx bolt goes into. Not the rotor, just that sleeve shaped part along the sides. This loosens the grip and lock tite on the torx bolt threads and makes removing it much easier.
That was a superb video......make more please.
I watched this and your video made me think the brake ripped me off. They charge me for the rotor but did not put it on. Good video
Great video thank you. Looks like My home Gulf shores al on the test drive
Thank you! From Minnesota
ATTENTION DEALER SPECS
TORQUE TOO 60 FT POUNDS WHILE ROTATING THE ROTOR THEN GO BACK 5 CLICKS WHILE ROTATING
Thanks. I wish more videos included torque specs in their notes.
@samhoskins8706 yes sir always go by the book
What's a click?
When using battery impacts, using 1/2" adds a little more weight to the gun torque slap. Example, a thicker 1/2" drive impact socket versus a thinner 3/8" drive socket.
Hard to believe that subtle change will make a difference but it does.
GREAT VIDEO!!! So detailed, helped me tremendously
Perfect like these two I know hard thing is to get the back tires off you explained everything perfect appreciate the video and I've done it before it's just one truck be different from the other one a little bit from a 99 to a 2004 to 2005 whether it be a gas engine or diesel you know
Do NOT loosten the nut after the clicking stops. There is a preload in a tapered roller and far more of them fail from being too loose than too tight. If the hub turns too freely it is WRONG. There is to be a slight drag.
good work
Thank u”😊
why do you grease the bearings when they are bather from the read diff fluid that floods the axle and washes out the grease and changes the composition of the rear diff fluid after the mix up.. ?
I appreciate your making and sharing this video. Excellent work. Was there a reason that you didn't say what to torque the bolts to? Did you not use a torque wrench?
There is so many things wrong with this video, that’s not how you pack a bearing ,that is not bearing greases ,that’s not how a bearing endplay is set and most importantly it’s an oil system not grease now oil and grease will be mixing so please no one do any of this .
i agree with setting the bearing as i have the official ford book for that and it shows a procedure with a few steps he missed including measuring how much force it takes to spin the hub but im willing to bet he is driving it just fine and im grateful for a video of this quality that puts everything into perspective. his grease is fine everybodys a packologist, it just has to fully be embedded into the crevices perhaps till some comes out the other side.
If you go into that hub again, its probably worth it to remove the inside grease seal, to pack that bearing too. I push the edge of the bearing into a pile of grease until it comes out pasts the rollers
I did both sides and I did replace the seal on the other side, but it did not need replacing and was a lot of extra work to get out and then put the new one back in. So on this side it was also like new so I did not replace it. The guy I got it from had it for 12 years and had the ambulance company replace all that not to long before but then he had the truck sitting for over 8 months. I think that is what froze the breaks up sitting so long. But, the bearings and seals did not have a lot of miles on them. The truck also has a newer 7.3 motor that only has around 53k miles on it right now and most all the motor parts were replated as well even the radiator was replaced with a new one at that time. I was given the paperwork for the new motor it was direct from Ford with a new Turbo as well.
I will be replacing the front at some point later this year with new everything.
On rear axles, the diff fluid is the lubricant for the bearings.no grease packing is necessary.
Did you refill the differential with recommended gear lube to replenish oil lost when you pulled the hub? Otherwise your gears in the rear end might not be getting sufficient lubrication. Hoping you replaced inner wheel seal as well, while you didn’t mention that hopefully you did.
Good video and instructions, thanks for sharing! What is the ton rating of your jack?
gtreat job
It's 100× easier to remove the two bolts that attach the caliper carrier to the axle with an 18mm impact swivel socket, especially if you're replacing the caliper. In some suspension configurations the leaf springs completely block the upper caliper slider bolts.
This type of caliper there isnt two bolts for the bracket. The bracket is made to the axle. Ive done both types and this one is a bit more time consuming. Just a fyi
Do you know where little spring clips go ?
Thanks
That's a oil hub and shouldn't have been greased. At least none of my E450s are hub oiled.
The one he is doing runs in diffrn. Oil !
Thanks so much. How many ton jack are you using? Also where is the e brake cables at ?
I knew I didnt want to do this job after purchasing an E350.. but I must since its scraping bad
Mentioning part numbers of the replacement parts would be of some help.
What spindle tool is that for the axle? Any part number?
Great video where did you purchase parts
Any videos on the rear suspension work?
No have not done anything on that. We drive it a few times a week.
hi i buy new rear brake pads for my ford e 3500 dual whells....but two pads is long and two long ...wich one go inside and wich one outside thanks ?
parts list would be helpful
I have a 2003 E-450 super duty with Aluminum box truck but heavy loaded permanently. with ABS 6 wheels disk brakes. I need replaces calipers, pad and rotors. I was wondering if it is better to buy original from Ford Dealer or if there is better Brake kits aftermarket?
I got everything from Napa. its been many years now that I did all that and still going strong.
@@goactivemedia I am very happy to ear that! I will try Napa
Where did u get these is there a link
Do u have to put the hydraulic system in service mode or raise it all the way up before u raise up the RV?
I have a class c e450. What kind of pads should I get?
I took my pads to Napa auto parts and they had to order them for me.
If anyone knows can u tell me the Cost of this job for the hardware and both hardware and labor if i would send it somewhere please
Need to check diferential fluid becose the rear axle has to be removed!!
Lift the side being worked on a little higher, will lose very little diff fluid.
Why didn't you put a new wheel seal in it am I missing something
Your Kobalt Impact is a step lower than Dewalt. I bit the bullet to get a Snap-on gun but that's a $1,000 gun.
What size Spindle Nut Socket was used.
It is 2 3/4 spindle nut socket. Napa has it
I could be wrong but your leaf springs look shot. They are inverted. I have a 1991 E350 that looks same. Gonna put a fresh pack of leafs (and cast mounts, drilling the frame) for a pair off an F450. The stamped ones rust away, the cast (450/550) don't.
E series rear springs don't have an arch to them. I've owned 95,97,98 E350 passenger vans and a 06 E-350 shuttle bus. The 98 I have rebuilt all the suspension no real noticeable difference, still mostly flat. My F250 and F350 both obs, have a good arch to them. Springs are different between E and F series.
Spring hangers are the same.
Any idea how many miles were on the unit when the need to to replace the rotor?
The truck has around 250k miles on it but i do not know when the last time the rotor was replaced. I would think it has been replaced a few times in the past. I got it from a guy who used it as a locksmith truck and he had got it from the Ambo place years before. The locksmith guy paid to have a new motor and turbo put in that has less then 55k miles on it right now. Also lots of new motor parts also got replaced at the same time. It runs great.
Where's the rear clip go
What's the price
the bigger cobalt impact wrench can remove that
So what year is your van
2001
Hey it has been a year or so since you have done this but I would like to point out that your old seal was leaking gear oil.
You should have changed your seal while you had the hub off.
We drive it a few times a week and I have no leaks at all. It is parked on a cement driveway and no leaks also no oil leaks.
Hey I am happy you got my message.
At 8:15, if you look at the inside of your rotor you will see oil residue that should not be there. Don’t be confused with the fresh oil that appeared while disassembling but the dried oil that has coated the rotor.
Also, since you have no evidence of oil leaks it could be because it is low on oil. Most of the time the breather tube is clogged and causes pressure on the seal which then causes premature failure.
Worth a look at least for piece of mind.
What size socket is the rotor bolt you couldn’t get out?
I have no ideia i did all that many months ago.
On my '97 F-Super Duty they were #18 E-Torx or star heads. When I got the rotor and hub off and found those star heads, I had to drop everything and go to town and find some. The local O'Reillys, Napa, and Autozone did not have it. Luckily Home Depot had a set that went up to #20. Looks like a regular socket, but the hole is 6 point star.
How much was the cost of all this doing it yourself? Including the tools? Thanks.😊😊
Off hand I do not have a total amount as I did buy a lot of tools including the new jack
@@mynomadtravellife How about the parts then..I'm just trying to wrap my head around the cost of the parts..that would tell me what I'm in for my 2010 Ford E350 superduty flex fuel shuttle bus. Thanks!😇😇😇😉😉
@@cherilcooper289 I did each side one at a time so I got parts as needed from a local Napa store. I did not buy them all at once. Just look up all the parts you need on their website to see the price. Some items I had to wait a few days for it to come in to the store. I do think prices have went up now to. I just paid $36 for one bulb replacement for a special tail light bulb on my ambulance I just got it that did not fix the problem.
You could have used a wire brush or grinder to “clean and grind the mounting area for the caliper and you don’t need to hammer the calipers in. Being tight like that will cause the caliper to stick
Get you an earthquake cordless impact that will work ...
Good vid - clean ! No BS/wasted time !
I'll be referencing this vid to do my new-to-me Winnebago C class motorhome . Thanks !
Did you use a manual for torque settings ?
You put the top slider pin in upside down
yup
Well, more specifically 90 degrees out of proper orientation.
@@frenchfryfarmer436 You mean 180 degrees?
@@dicktab likely
Metal on metal hammering is never the answer
Cringed...I use mallet.
I GUESS YOU SKIPPED REAR BRAKE CLIPS (HARDWARE)
Your gonna be pulling the hub off again that seal is trash.
I have to say, that you’re spot on. Doing that job without replacing that seal, means it is gonna have to come apart again soon, as it will leak gear oil all over the brake assembly.
Your dead on the money.
DONT GREASE THESE. USE GEAR OIL NOT BEARING GREASE.
A lot easier and moves freely. Speak much
YOU SHOULD HAVE CLEANED THE AREA WHERE THE PADS TOUCH THE ANCHOR. THERE SHOULD BE CLEARANCE ON THE EDGE OF THE PADS INSTEAD OF HAMMERING THE PADS IN. YOUR BRAKE JOB WILL NOT LAST AS LONG AS IT SHOULD.
I made this video years ago back on Apr 30, 2021 and I am still using the brakes I put in. They have lasted for years now with no problems. We drive the truck 4 to 5 time a week driving to jobs for our business.
Completely skipped the brakes smh
WHAT? NO BRAKE LUBRICANT!! NOT A GREAT BRAKE JOB!!!
Bro who thought you how to pack a bearing cause that's 100% not how to pack a bearing and makes me question your whole video. Learn to do it right before making a video
Been driving it a few times a week for over two years now after I did that with no problems. I learned how to it from watching other videos from Auto shops that show how they do it.
Wrong
What size Spindle Nut Socket was used.
I believe its part number W83008. Should be like $24 with taxes. I got one from oreilly’s