Totally missed that driver's side lug were left handed on my 84 RV that has the same rearend. Snapped that 9/16 off. Glad you had this video. It's been 40 yrs since I pulled a Dana 60 hub apart.
Thank you MrM6d. I do what I’m able to keep this old girl on the road. I have a couple left handed that I’m afraid to put the torque too. They’re starting to round the threads and I’m not sure where or who would have those left hand studs. So I’m just easy on the torque.
Hey Mike! Thanks for taking the time to film and post this repair. Many golden nuggets in your process. Bringing my 1989 F250 back from the prior "absentee" owner. Cheers PSR.
I will be honest I don’t know if vice grips are the proper tool for those springs. Vice grips are hardened steel and so are the springs so it could possibly break where you crimp the spring. But I couldn’t find a better solution readily available and I hate spring stretchers.
@MikesMischief either way your a life saver I spent like 2 hrs trying to get those on till I saw your video! Hopefully my 70 f250 will stop like a champ now
Hey man just to help out, I’ve gotten a lot of stuck drums off before by putting an air hammer in the back lip groove on the back edge of the drum and working different sides. I’ve never had it fail. It’s a good idea to flatten the chisel on the grinder so it doesn’t damage it.
I tried working it with a regular sledge but it wouldn’t come. I do have an air hammer I could’ve ran off of my Kenworth but I wasn’t thinking. Hopefully I won’t have to do them again for a decade or so. I’ve only put about 2-3k miles on this truck since I made this video.
Video really help out I was doing 78 f250 the bottom spring was purple and the was a Blue one like it but the coil part of the spring was smaller I used the purple one I don't know what the blue one goes it was like the purple one kinda hopefully it was just a extra idk
I smacked the end of the shaft with a ball peen hammer that winter. Thinking it was ice. In hind sight I should’ve take the arm off of the shaft and put some anti-seize on it while I had it apart. The brakes have been on for a year now and still work great.
You mentioned "wedges that you need to put on the end of the axle". What are the wedges for? I haven’t taken the axle off yet so I don’t know quite what to expect with those wedges…
There’s no lock ring or tab like a normal rear end. The axle nut is a big Teflon lock nut and the wedge goes into a keyway on at the end of the axle tube and gouges into the Teflon part of the nut. They were both missing when I took it apart. New Teflon axle nuts are on the spinning generic parts rack at our local Napa and we’re about $13. The wedges I got off of Amazon for about $6.
Why do maintenance work on people's trucks and I get the feeling that they're going to just show up with a spare key and run without paying me I remove all the axle nuts on one side sometimes I do on both sides of the rear end I don't break the seal so that way it doesn't leak I just keep them in I keep the nuts in my house or inside the shop and I just wait until they pay me once they pay me I go out there but then that's back on it and torque them what happens if they try to drive off without those nuts is the truck ain't going to go nowhere the axles will spend but the tires won't
Alittle easier to take the tires off. Also, just buy a new hardware kit, better then using the old stuff. FYI, Ford started that before 1980, I have a 1968 F250 and you have to pull the axle to get the drum off.
It’s easier in grass. Pulling everything is faster in a shop and I wanted the leverage to get the drum off. My 1969 has it also. Sounded like a good idea when the engineered it but it’s so hard to put everything back on without contamination. I used a new nut on the drivers side. I only drive this pickup 2k miles a year or less so I have to have a realistic budget. I did get and install new wedges.
I remedied that on my 1965 F-250 by grinding and filing axle flange just little bit, so now I don't have to remove axle, however it's probably a good idea to check bearings and seal once in a while.
It’s an open system with an oil bath from the differential. Older 2 wheel drive vehicles like this use grease on the front Spindle/axle bearings. Cargo trailers, boat trailers etc are all grease. Most floating axles like this one as well as, semi trailers, semi truck front spindles and differentials all have oil-bath lubrication. Very few but some newer semi trailers are running a #2 moly grease in their hubs. Until recently grease was not stable enough for a high heat system like a semi-trailer axle. Old and new pickups like this all have oil-bath bearings for the rear axle. Some newer pickups have a cv-axle on the front which would be grease as well.
You gotta pull the rubber plug. Shine a light in there and you’ll see a sprocket looking thing. You have to use a flat head screwdriver and turn it up or down. The tightener is like a turn buckle so to speak. One way pushes the shoes apart and the other brings them together. You will have to do this by feel unless you have 3 hands or a flexible light with a magnet. It’s really hard to see in there while adjusting them. The spring itself just holds the adjuster in place you won’t have to mess with that spring until you pull your shoes off.
It was a line that came off of a T for an in-cab hydraulic-controlled trailer-break-energizer. They don’t even make them anymore and the one in the cab had a small leak. I removed the T and removed it from the system. If I ever pull a trailer with the truck I will install an electric energizer. The major leak was coming from the master cylinder. It’s been over a year. That line is still there as you see it. There’s no leaks and the truck stops on a dime.
@bobbyheffley4955 yeah. 1 really low gear and 3 more. It’s screaming at 62mph. I’d like to find a rolled modern dually with discs and ABS and take the differentials. I’d need a T-case too.
I’m doing auto repairs in gravel, drove the seal in with a punch, didn’t replace the axle nut or install a wedge, I reused the axle gasket and didn’t have the brake drum reconditioned along with a few other corners cut and you notice something about voice and hands… They say when you get a troll it’s a good thing as it means your channel is getting more attention on UA-cam. Honestly UA-cam I want a better troll, This Travis guy is a putz. Step your game up Travis Clarky you can’t do better.
@@travisclarke9214 I thought you meant the words didn't line up with the actions haha my bad. Its supposed to be like a narrators perspective. 17 winters with -30F temps have taken a tool on my hands.
Totally missed that driver's side lug were left handed on my 84 RV that has the same rearend. Snapped that 9/16 off. Glad you had this video. It's been 40 yrs since I pulled a Dana 60 hub apart.
Thank you MrM6d. I do what I’m able to keep this old girl on the road. I have a couple left handed that I’m afraid to put the torque too. They’re starting to round the threads and I’m not sure where or who would have those left hand studs. So I’m just easy on the torque.
Hey Mike! Thanks for taking the time to film and post this repair. Many golden nuggets in your process. Bringing my 1989 F250 back from the prior "absentee" owner. Cheers PSR.
Glad I could help. Thank you for the nice comment.
You are the man! Those red springs that hold the shoes in were kicking my ass! Never done drums with those
I will be honest I don’t know if vice grips are the proper tool for those springs. Vice grips are hardened steel and so are the springs so it could possibly break where you crimp the spring. But I couldn’t find a better solution readily available and I hate spring stretchers.
@MikesMischief either way your a life saver I spent like 2 hrs trying to get those on till I saw your video! Hopefully my 70 f250 will stop like a champ now
Great video! Thank you. Helped me with my 75 F250 4X4
Thank you Mike K! Glad I could help.
Good contain and description on your brake job. The camera view as awesome.
Thank you Richard!
Great video. Nicely done.
Good job Good info
U helped me alot
Thank you Steven. Happy I could help.
Awesome video Bud!1 thanks for posting it was a real help!!!
Thank you Cesar. I appreciate the nice comment.
What he said 👆 !!!
Thank you very much...
Hey man just to help out, I’ve gotten a lot of stuck drums off before by putting an air hammer in the back lip groove on the back edge of the drum and working different sides. I’ve never had it fail. It’s a good idea to flatten the chisel on the grinder so it doesn’t damage it.
I tried working it with a regular sledge but it wouldn’t come. I do have an air hammer I could’ve ran off of my Kenworth but I wasn’t thinking. Hopefully I won’t have to do them again for a decade or so. I’ve only put about 2-3k miles on this truck since I made this video.
Awesome video Broski 💪🏼😁
Thank You Bryce!
@@MikesMischief 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Video really help out I was doing 78 f250 the bottom spring was purple and the was a Blue one like it but the coil part of the spring was smaller I used the purple one I don't know what the blue one goes it was like the purple one kinda hopefully it was just a extra idk
I think the kits are for multiple applications sometimes.
Thanks I was hoping so was the first time doing drum brakes the video really helped appreciate it
@@Jolene_400 no problem I appreciate the feed back!
Where did you get the break parts?
Amazon.
How did you organaly free up the stuck break that you were taking about in the begging I’m having your 2nd issue in your driver side
I smacked the end of the shaft with a ball peen hammer that winter. Thinking it was ice. In hind sight I should’ve take the arm off of the shaft and put some anti-seize on it while I had it apart. The brakes have been on for a year now and still work great.
Thanks for the video. You helped me replace drums, shoes and wheel cylinders on my 74 dodge with a dana 60 rear end.
Awesome thank you for the feed back.
You mentioned "wedges that you need to put on the end of the axle". What are the wedges for? I haven’t taken the axle off yet so I don’t know quite what to expect with those wedges…
There’s no lock ring or tab like a normal rear end. The axle nut is a big Teflon lock nut and the wedge goes into a keyway on at the end of the axle tube and gouges into the Teflon part of the nut. They were both missing when I took it apart. New Teflon axle nuts are on the spinning generic parts rack at our local Napa and we’re about $13. The wedges I got off of Amazon for about $6.
The part number/search term on Amazon is “Dorman 81036 Rear Axle Nut Locking Wedge Key”.
What size hub nut socket?
2-9/16”
@@MikesMischief Thank you sir!
@@mds6387 anytime!
Should also use a line wrench
I guess that’s the mischief I spoke of.
What’s the part number on the seal?
I guess I’m not sure. I just had them look it up at the parts store.
Why do maintenance work on people's trucks and I get the feeling that they're going to just show up with a spare key and run without paying me I remove all the axle nuts on one side sometimes I do on both sides of the rear end I don't break the seal so that way it doesn't leak I just keep them in I keep the nuts in my house or inside the shop and I just wait until they pay me once they pay me I go out there but then that's back on it and torque them what happens if they try to drive off without those nuts is the truck ain't going to go nowhere the axles will spend but the tires won't
Alittle easier to take the tires off. Also, just buy a new hardware kit, better then using the old stuff. FYI, Ford started that before 1980, I have a 1968 F250 and you have to pull the axle to get the drum off.
It’s easier in grass. Pulling everything is faster in a shop and I wanted the leverage to get the drum off. My 1969 has it also. Sounded like a good idea when the engineered it but it’s so hard to put everything back on without contamination. I used a new nut on the drivers side. I only drive this pickup 2k miles a year or less so I have to have a realistic budget. I did get and install new wedges.
I remedied that on my 1965 F-250 by grinding and filing axle flange just little bit, so now I don't have to remove axle, however it's probably a good idea to check bearings and seal once in a while.
I've never seen anyone use gear oil on wheel bearings instead of axle grease, any reason why?
It’s an open system with an oil bath from the differential. Older 2 wheel drive vehicles like this use grease on the front Spindle/axle bearings. Cargo trailers, boat trailers etc are all grease. Most floating axles like this one as well as, semi trailers, semi truck front spindles and differentials all have oil-bath lubrication. Very few but some newer semi trailers are running a #2 moly grease in their hubs. Until recently grease was not stable enough for a high heat system like a semi-trailer axle. Old and new pickups like this all have oil-bath bearings for the rear axle. Some newer pickups have a cv-axle on the front which would be grease as well.
@@MikesMischiefif I used grease should I take it off and clean it and redo with oil or is it good?
@@MikesMischief as well how do you push on the spring thing to loosen brakes again???
@thepotentpineal6843 I don’t think a little grease will hurt anything. The oil will wash it out and it should be ok I would think.
You gotta pull the rubber plug. Shine a light in there and you’ll see a sprocket looking thing. You have to use a flat head screwdriver and turn it up or down. The tightener is like a turn buckle so to speak. One way pushes the shoes apart and the other brings them together. You will have to do this by feel unless you have 3 hands or a flexible light with a magnet. It’s really hard to see in there while adjusting them. The spring itself just holds the adjuster in place you won’t have to mess with that spring until you pull your shoes off.
Who els seen the un hooked brake line and never went to the other side to look where the leak was from probably was the missing line 😂 13:22
It was a line that came off of a T for an in-cab hydraulic-controlled trailer-break-energizer. They don’t even make them anymore and the one in the cab had a small leak. I removed the T and removed it from the system. If I ever pull a trailer with the truck I will install an electric energizer. The major leak was coming from the master cylinder. It’s been over a year. That line is still there as you see it. There’s no leaks and the truck stops on a dime.
What size socket was that big one
2 9/16”
Automatic or manual transmission?
Manual.
@@MikesMischief granny gear
@bobbyheffley4955 yeah. 1 really low gear and 3 more. It’s screaming at 62mph. I’d like to find a rolled modern dually with discs and ABS and take the differentials. I’d need a T-case too.
Ghawd Dhamnit...
This looks like much more of a bitch than I was expecting, I didn't know the DWR were like this...
It’s not so bad. An afternoon and you’ll have her.
I hate when that happens
Google voice to text put why do it supposed to put when I do
I got ya sir. That’s really smart.
Voice does not correspond with hands bahahaha
I’m doing auto repairs in gravel, drove the seal in with a punch, didn’t replace the axle nut or install a wedge, I reused the axle gasket and didn’t have the brake drum reconditioned along with a few other corners cut and you notice something about voice and hands… They say when you get a troll it’s a good thing as it means your channel is getting more attention on UA-cam. Honestly UA-cam I want a better troll, This Travis guy is a putz. Step your game up Travis Clarky you can’t do better.
@@MikesMischief i had no intentions of trolling.
Just saying your voice sounds so young compared to the working man hands.
Thanks for the video man!
@@travisclarke9214 I thought you meant the words didn't line up with the actions haha my bad. Its supposed to be like a narrators perspective. 17 winters with -30F temps have taken a tool on my hands.