Milwaukee door lock installation kit review and tutorial 49-22-4073
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- Опубліковано 12 кві 2017
- Buy Here! homedepot.sjv.io/c/1241136/45...
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Includes: one auto-centering drill guide, anti-splinter depth stop, 2-1/8 in. Hole Dozer hole saw, 1 in. Hole Dozer hole saw, small arbor & PB, arbor adapter and spacer, two 3/32 in. drill bits and two 1/8 in. drill bits for pre-drilling holes for latch plate screws
Features Rip Guard teeth with more steel behind the cutting edge for added durability
Comes with a limited lifetime tooth break warranty
Equipped with Plug Jack, an all-access slot design for fast plug removal
Features bi-metal construction with 8% cobalt for increased wear resistance
Rip Guard, the strongest tooth form in the industry
Door Thickness Capacity- 1-3/8" to 1-3/4" - Навчання та стиль
The instructions are printed on the inside of the cardboard on the packaging. They will help you assemble the hole saw correctly.
A tip i learned for easier removal of the hole saw working in electrical is that you can wrap a small piece of 10gague solid wire with the insulation still on it around the base of the thread of the pilot bit so the two surfaces dont lock up against each other. Makes it much easier to remove. Great video!
Yup. We do the same with big concrete core drills
Excellent tutorial. I just bought this tool. Your explanation taught me how to you it. Great Job. Thank you. Love the step at 6:57. :)
Hey Scott, thanks so much for the great comment my friend!
+ HDreviews , I believe that black piece you were asking about is called, by Milwaukee, Anti Splinter Depth Stop. I think it's meant to go inside the hole saw bit, and it's to prevent someone from blowing through a door and splintering the exit hole on the other side of the door. Just helps to make a cleaner hole on both sides. Awesome review, I really enjoyed watching!!!
Hello M M, that is a very good possibility. Thanks for the reply friend!
Yes it goes inside the hole saw and keeps you from going all the way through. Then finish the hole by going on the other side. I have done 20 doors and it works every time.
I've never used one of these before so it was a little daunting at first. But, I tend to just jump right in. I quickly watched the video, but ignored the commentary (sorry). After watching the video, I did four doors using this product in less time than if I hadn't had this kit, and was amazed at how easy it was to put together. Thanks for the video
Where is part 2 for the latch of the door ❓
You couldn't get the space to fit the hole saw because you assembled it incorrectly. Look at the diagram in the instructions.
this thing is amazing works suuuper well
I bought this at HD, cheaper than Amazon. All the kits work in a similar fashion except I spent more to buy this because the holesaws definitely cut better than those cheaper kits.
have you tried to use anti seize compound?
This helped me figure out how to attach the arbor adapter. Thank you.
Nice work
Thank you
No problem
For the metal doors I tried the a few cheapo kits. The $20 masterforce set template is more solid tool but the hole saw not carbide. In a week I broke 3 pilot bits. Most residential metal doors dont have wood blocks or theres only partial blocks. Sucks because the 1/4 bit has no solid hold and suddenly takes off and breaks the bit ripping a GOUGE. So i had to reverse the drill. Useing half inch drill with side handel.
Any help please.
Pilot bit is a little too long for the length of the 2 1/8" hole saw. Make the length of the hole saw longer or include a shorter pilot bit. You want the hole saw already inside the jig before the pilot bit makes contact with the door, to eliminate any eye-balling.
You dont need the pilot bit.
Yes you do need the pilot bit.
Once the pilot bit goes out through the second side you always take the holesaw and go from the other side
otherwise you’ll tear out the door
There are two settings on the hole jig to make the hole closer or farther from the edge. Why is that? I know the bolt adjusts as well. Just wonders why.
+Construction guy 2-3/8" on residential jobs and 2-3/4" on most commercial
Most local practice is 2-3/8 interior, 2-3/4 exterior. commercial also usually also used 2-3/4.
Also, if you install a larger lock (such as a Kwikset 909, you would want the backset further back
thanks for this video- are solid doors easier to work on than hollow doors?
Yes depending on your door frame. My metal frame have the latch already and the hollow doors have a piece of wood where the handle should be but my frame is higher so I’m drilling half hollow and half wood.
6:57 only parents understand what he just did there. That's the universal parental way of getting your kids to stfu when you're on the phone or in the middle of talking.
+nohedidnt81 lol, that's funny you picked up on that. great comment!
When installing a new door how do you know which setting to put the template for the door knob on? You said 2 3/8 or 2 3/4 which one would be best when drilling a new hole?
Hey New, I usually always have mine set to the 2 3/8 for residential doors. It really doesn't matter to much though as the door locks are adjustable and fit both. Stay with the 2 3/8 Just to be safe though
2 3/4” all the way, more room for your hand between the knob and door frame
My issue is once I assembled it like the directions said to I can't get the thing apart to use the bit for the 1" hole
Hi Jaime,
I know just what you are dealing with. The best way to get that off is to place it in a vice and reverse the drill. They get really tight on there, so you may be able tobuse a pipe wrench as well.
I have done 20 doors and not had that problem as of yet. I hand tighten and not had any problem coming apart to switch blades. I am going to buy second hole saw set up so I don't even have to mess with swapping them.
Dude assembled the hole saw wrong, That's probably why he said it was a pain in the ass to take it apart .
ya i bought a cheap one from menards for 6 dollas. was your one hole worth that $35 tool
This only good for the first month?
What's the best way to remove the bit to change size?
You can put a pipe wrench on it, a vice or a screwdriver in the side. Sometimes they are really hard to get off, but just takes a bit if elbow grease
Milwaukee bi-metal hole saw
How much for the door lock instillation kit?
Only around $30
I think you drilled the hole on the wrong side of the door, never have I had a door where the hollow core was where the doorknob went Bet the other side has a solid core square where the knob goes in fact guarantee it does
The door was just for demonstration.
He did explain that was a not good door anymore.
Just for demosntration purposes.
I used this jig but the latch hole was off center.
Hey Koflers. Sirryvtobhear that. Something may have been off from the manufacturer?
I think so. I also was reusing the old hinges, that were probably about 100 year old, and I had to shim the back of it to bring the hinge back farther. I just used post it's to get it to the right dimensions.
Yes that is true. must pay attention to that when drilling that hole.
Thank you for your post.
I can also see from the video and the next video (while using the Ryobi jib to install the latch plate) that the latch hole is off centre. I don't know whether it is true.
Hey Luang, everything lines up perfectly with this jig, and never hand any issue. The door I was using was an old, beat up door that is used for a work table half the time. This could have played a role in it looking like it was off.
Oh my God
Jig tech made this product few years ago this is definitely a rip off
......just returned to store.
This is the worst piece of **** I have ever used. I've done dozens of doors over the years and know how to use a jig like this. Cant believe Milwaukee put their name on it.
what were the issues with it?
Wayyyyyy too much unnecessary talking at some points 🤔
EXACTLY!
you are painfully overexplaining and this video could be easily a third of its length. pls think about streamlining in your videos. thx.
Can this jig be used for dead bolt as well?
yes