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2005 KLR 650 upgrade - 320mm Tusk Typhoon Oversized Brake Rotor
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- Опубліковано 19 січ 2023
- Tusk Typhoon 320mm disk front brake rotor
www.rockymount...
Tusk hydraulic brake bleeder kit
www.rockymount...
/ klrmoto
Good video R. When the rotor bolts resist,you can heat the hub with a torch or heat gun to soften any locktitie that may have been added during initial assembly. Also, when addressing the wheel bearings, those inset seals can be removed,from each side, by using a small pick, and grease can be added directly, to the bearings. Don't overly repack them, but you can add some fresh grease.There are also videos, available, where a stock SV650 caliper can be added, to the original assembly, that bolts right up, and also adds substantial braking/clamping pressure, utilizing the original rotor. This set-up, is also quite impressive, and wheel lockup quite possible, due to the tires available for this model motorcycle, are the limiting factor.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely go back in and take those covers off and add fresh grease directly to the bearings!
REUBEN ! Missed you bro.
I upgraded to steel braided brake lines on my gen2 and it made a world of difference..didn't even need to upgrade the after that
The stock gen2 front brake rotor is fairly decent at 280mm and the stock gen2 brake caliper is twin piston opposed to the gen1's single piston front brake caliper. Most folks don't necessarily need to upgrade their brakes on later gen KLRs but a simple upgrade such as steel braided lines makes quite a difference in feel. For gen1s they are in dire need of a complete overhaul and it's my opinion that the oversized rotor provides the biggest increase in performance due to the amplification of force by increasing leverage. The bigger size rotor provides 140% more stopping power over the gen1s stock 230mm rotor simply due to the increased leverage and there are other benefits as well from the rotor's design over stock. I still might do the SS brake lines later on but it's kind of overkill, the front wheel locks up already so it's more about practicing proper braking technique from now on to ensure I come to a stop safely. The other upgrades would just make my front brake even more sensitive and on a bike w/o ABS it's kinda dangerous to be able to lock up the front wheel even easier.
@@reubenreports2904 you make a valid point..stay safe and keep it shiny side up..I will keep an eye out for any more updates to your klr650
Hey Reuben great video. I just got the same for my gen 1 klr and was confused about what bolts to use to mount the caliper to the bracket. I used my oem bolts to connect the bracket to the fork and the kit doesn’t come with any more bolts. What did you use?
Great video, you should have a lot of subscribers👏🏼 I just bought 2018 (Gen2) and installed EBC new brake pads and fresh brake fluid. Rear brake is ok but front brake for me is weak especially compared to my others bike. I've already bled the brake twice after installation, maybe there was air in the system but no, it's still the same. what do you think i can do to make this better?
If the front brake is "weak" in feel; I would try stainless steel braided brake lines. It should do away with the spongy feel of the stock rubber lines which is usually due to swelling. If it's "weak" in power you can go the route of installing an oversized rotor. The gen 2 brake caliper is already twin piston I believe, no need for an upgrade there. The only way to truly increase stopping power is to increase leverage or increase clamping force. Increasing leverage (bigger rotor) usually yields the best results.
@@reubenreports2904 I think it has good pressure on lever but no braking power. You gave me a lot of information, now I understand “cause and solutions”. I I definitely have to go to a big disc like you did in the video. I really appreciate your help and excellent technical information. Thank you
Hell....it's hard to ever go fast enough on one of these things to where you'd need anything more than just your shoes to slow down.