Machinists are the man behind the curtain. Except in their case the man really is a wizard. Would have never thought a peening hammer would have brought that big cap back out.
very educational thank you ! just wondering an im not questioning you at all by no means but could you have got a new cap by chance ? very nice work im gettn ready to build a 94 gm 4.3 !
If I was 30 years younger I'd come work for you for free just so I could learn. Unfortunately I learned to repair office and commercial/industrial equipment. Tolerances there, too, are plus or minus .001 and some adjustments had to be done by feel as there was no way to possibly get any type of gauge in there. That equipment no longer exists and is now all obsolete, just like my skills. I hope your assistants know how blessed they are to learn these skills from a master tech like you. I know from trying to teach some people many years ago that some people just never seemed to grasp the concept of close tolerances. And I've found that true of some machinists too.
That’s near and dear for me, thanks for saving some good iron! Years ago I bought a 454 block, steel crank and rods out of a boat a boat that blew an oil cooler line and was driven with no oil pressure until it locked up near the shore. Seller sold it to me for scrap. The center main was spun so bad it bulged the cap out really bad and was completely black. Since the cape as wasted we snagged another from a scrapped 396 and worked on that thing all weekend. Definitely burned the “midnight oil” line honing that thing to accept some over/under bearing shells. My buddy ground the crank under, .020” mains, .010” mains rods while I squared the block up, zero decked and bored .030”. 20 yrs later still running as a daily driver that sees the 1/8th on some weekends and get the kids to school during the week :)
Wow. Never seen this done before and it gives me a new perspective of what goes into machining these blocks. I can talk to a machinist and imagine what he is trying to picture in my mind and where to go. Thanks for the show!
Last time I’ve seen that done is when I had an old fella do an in frame on my V8 Mack. He did everything inframe in my garage. The hone had a cradle that hung from the frame of the truck.
I was amazed that you could peen the cap out to fill the register. And you held the cap in your hand while you peened it! That is some great old school tech that i never heard of. Great work!
Nice save Daniel. Came out pretty good. Glad to see you using an oil pump on the rear cap. You may tell your viewers why, they may not know. That block had a bad line bore. I can tell by the parting line Big block Chevys are usually bad. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
Keep in mind if the block sees enough heat it will occasionally crack, usually in the oil supply passage area. We'll just weld up the side of the cap and recut, or just replace the cap with a donor cap from a scrap block, but it's very interesting to see you can peen the collapse back out of the cap.
Such meticulous ability and attention to detail still astounds me. You are better than a true machinists. 👍 My dad taught me some things, but i never took up the art. May God rest soul! I was lead in another direction. We will be talking 👄 in the future.
Great video. As a master ASE mechanic who only brought $200,000 worth of machines due to getting screw over. I hope your area realizes how blessed they are to have a REAL MACHINE SHOP close by.
I will say having the main cap attachment for the 750 cap grinder to index the caps 90° is a huge huge help. Jamison equipment sells them new USA made and a CBN wheel from Martin at performance plus makes cutting the caps soooooo much better! Love the videos man!
You are setting the bore gauge up to the size you want and hone the bores to the size you want. That's why the reading on the gauge got smaller. Right? I know this is probably something everybody else knows but I've never been around this kind of stuff and was just trying to figure it out.
During my time in the older way with repairs involved heating and brazing the blocks and caps after we bored the block to create an area for the mass of brass. Hand filing a peening everything until the block was good with blueing. Clip the caps as usual for the boring. At times we would finish hone if we had rough finishing.. Sometimes we'd have to really bore big and make soft steel sleeves and with push rod those in the block and replace the cap. There was always a way to get it right again. Some of it was race stuff and still used when the boys had no choice.
Thanks for investing your time and knowledge,had a guy a few yrs back fire half his help and the other half quit including his son and he hadn’t done any shop work for yrs just golfing but I had him align bore my 406 and I should have known better but I didn’t even begin to tighten the rear cap when it snapped and the registers were off too.still have it but haven’t fixed or used it yet but this gives me knowledge to go on,thanks
A lot of 375 hp- 396's got replaced. They rev-ed way pass the valve trains float rpm. You should not have thrown out that engine. Not before calling Powell Machine.
I'm not a machinist and don't claim to know anything about it, but I do weld. When you weld steel it tends to pull in the direction of the weld. Would it be possible to run a few beads along the top of that cap to pull it back, then machine off the weld? Just curious.
Many thanks for the content. I don't build my own engines, I leave it to the experts, so I really appreciate this look behind the curtain, as my guys don't have time to show all their customers each build. Thanks to your videos, I can get an understanding of how everything is processed, love it 👍
At Pete's machine(when I was a kid working there), Pete had align boring equipment where he could recut, or align cut all those caps. Now Pete would make sure all the oil galleys was clear, open and clean so oil would flow as needed in the engine. We use to use blue Loctite on the crank cap bolts to make sure they stayed where we torqued them. Also Pete had a crank grinding machine- seems there was always a crank in the machine getting reground by Terry back in those days.
I'm sure I'm not alone in saying, "thank you to you and your son for educating!" Time isn't free, especially when you have a shop like yours and the wait time only gets longer. Tatro Machine in San Diego, a Harley builder, primarily an iron only man is exactly like yourself when he builds. The last time I checked his wait time was over two years. So, job security yes, and people will pay to have it done right!
When I was 21, I was a E5 USN Submarine Sailor. I was married and had very little extra cash to play with engine mods. My 67 Impala, 327 at 75,000 miles killed a cam and needed to be rebuilt. Damn Quaker State Crap Oil!!! Devastation! So, being mechanically inclined and a DYI guy, I did the engine rebuild my self. Lucky for me, I found a local machine shop in a small town in CT that had a heart and good engine machinating skills. It was Larrys Machine Shop. You remind me of the owner. Knowledgeable, Kind, and SMART! I can not believe all the LS Engine knowledge that you have provide me. THANK YOU! You are the MAN! Bill
IMHO, It was not that good way back in the late 70s early 80s. I agree that its come a long way since then as well as other oils. I didn't like Penns Oil either but, Thats my go to oil now and it great stuff. @@jeffreydurham5342
Great Content!! Excellent Work and Wow the patience to get it just right to 1/10 of a thou!! It looked like you have 3 or more hours into this block. At what point do you say, New Block, Or New Caps, and line bore? I can understand if this is a rare block and it would be hard to find a replacement.
Wow!! Now that's either some old school or secret squirrel machinist knowledge. I would never have thought that would work as well as it did. I wish I had known about your shop in the 90s. You are a rare diamond machine shop and machinist, brother!
I would love to see the correct way to select a new head gasket once a head has been skimmed and why checking piston protrusion is checked in relationship to selecting a head gasket size,regards Roy
Hey Daniel. Is that just a machined standard you are checking the bore gauge with? I have the same gauge and use the matching Sunnen setting fixture. Thanks, really enjoy the channel, you are a master of the craft.
I would think doing this would create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause interference between the rods and cam. Maybe not so much with the cam unless your stroked. There's also piston to deck height that I would think will be effected also.
I've line honed a couple hundred blocks over the years. I wish I would have know this peening trick back then. I use to stake the block with a round nose chisel to tighten the registers. Thanks for sharing.
Yup, not only staking but using the staking on one or both sides to fit in a replacement cap from another block, also loosening the caps that are on size or close, to get a tight one to catch up. Align honing is an exercise in patience.
Very nicely done. Amazing! Could you explain the center line movement. Do you need a custom timing chain with shifting the center line. Looks like a .004 or .005 shift. Very skilled on this equipment. Thanks for taking the time to show this process.💯
@@johnhuggins3671no custom timing chain required we are talking about very minimal Corrections in the alignment of the block during casting there is what they call Core shift that is more noticeable with the oil galleys that surround the camshaft bore but basically it gets everything true as possible. This will minimize any stress on the crankshaft itself when the main caps are torqued down and will also minimize excessive wear on any particular bearing for the crankshaft because everything is now perfectly concentric and in line in some cases it can also help minimize drag allowing for faster RPMs not that it's noticeable but if you are chasing tenths in a quarter mile these are definitely things that need to be looked at.
You at least backed your hunch that it could be fixed, many places just don't want to take the risk and use new stuff. Machines make new stuff but it is people who repair stuff and if they didn't none of the older stuff would be left to look at and appreciate where we came from.
I'm sure this is a dumb question but...Wouldn't it make more sense to machine it with the block on the top so the weight of the bar and gravity are cutting the caps more than the block? This way it seems like the block gets more material removed just due to gravity. I get that the idea is that it's cutting both sides so it's splitting the difference but with nothing to guide the bar other than the mains, it seems like just by nature it would cut the block more than the caps. I also get that the machine is using the block as the reference so flipping it around would be very complicated. So maybe it's just for simplicity's sake. One other question is what effect does the shortened distance from the crank center line to the cam and deck have? I get that it's only a few thousandths but that is also what we are removing here.
Do you have a video on how this align honing machine functions? What’s telling it to make a bigger hole? Seems like the diameter of the stones on the rod is static and by force of gravity would only want to cut on the bottom. Obviously you demonstrated that this is not the case.
I used Chad Golden racing engines and he built my motor from block up to build a 1200hp engine and within a week a rod went out side of motor in corvette and even sliced motor mount when rod came through the block…. Don’t ever use him….. wish this man could build me some hi power engines for my collection of muscle cars I have in my collection now… I currently hold over 100 cars in my collection and all frame off resto on most them cause I’m fussy and my cars conditions !! Got the fastest GNX GRAND NATIONAL IN THE COUNTRY RIGHT NOW
I used Chad Golden racing engines and he built my motor from block up to build a 1200hp engine and within a week a rod went out side of motor in corvette and even sliced motor mount when rod came through the block…. Don’t ever use him….. wish this man could build me some hi power engines for my collection of muscle cars I have in my collection now… I currently hold over 100 cars in my collection and all frame off resto on most them cause I’m fussy and my cars conditions !! Got the fastest GNX GRAND NATIONAL IN THE COUNTRY RIGHT NOW
Wow, that was quite a procedure, I never knew they had bearing cap grinders. That honing shaft, how heavy is that, that machine is cool. I use to work at a machine shop and did cyl head grinding and seat grinding 40 years ago.
Andrew- Hello from Lake Norman NC, where many people are involved with motorsports and engine building. - I appreciate the work you’re doing to showcase Dad’s skills. I just subscribed to your channel so I’m looking forward to seeing more of your work on behalf of your Dad, and learning more about the basics of automotive machining.
Thanks to Andrew AND You. I can't say I've ever seen anyone peen the cap like that, alrhough ut makes sense. I've seen and have peened the edges of the registers in the block before, but I wqs literally just going through the motions of What My mentor taught Me, always thinking it was a suspect way of "fixing" the problem.. Thanks for all You share man, good stuff.
Great video !!! You showed so much skill and good judgement to do this precision work properly... Lots of steps and checking of the measurements... The patience and careful procedures really paid off!!! Good job!
@powellmachineinc3179 you know the line in the movie Jaws, where the lead character says, "you're gonna need a bigger boat" that's why I was laughing. Heat does funny things to metal, as you well know. You're good and honest. I like that Had the talk with my machinist today. He said, you're gonna need more octane. I just started at him and said but but but, his reply? You're gonna need more octane. . . LoL
You need to wear gloves to protect yourself from the cutting fluids, as they do cause kidney cancer. As a lifelong machinist, I was diagnosed with kidney cancer in my mid 40's. So consider protecting yourself. It was good to see you checking your bore gauge often. Checking your measuring tools is the most important advice I give to young machinists.
Machinists are the man behind the curtain. Except in their case the man really is a wizard. Would have never thought a peening hammer would have brought that big cap back out.
Never in a million years would I have guessed that peening would have that effect.
I wish this is what I did for a living. I think I'd be good at it.
very educational thank you ! just wondering an im not questioning you at all by no means but could you have got a new cap by chance ? very nice work im gettn ready to build a 94 gm 4.3 !
A new cap would create more work, as it would need boring first, plus you can't buy 1 cap, would have to buy a set.
I'm subbed, I love seeing repairs like this. Any shop can replace parts, I like seeing repairs.
Thanks for the sub!
If I was 30 years younger I'd come work for you for free just so I could learn. Unfortunately I learned to repair office and commercial/industrial equipment. Tolerances there, too, are plus or minus .001 and some adjustments had to be done by feel as there was no way to possibly get any type of gauge in there. That equipment no longer exists and is now all obsolete, just like my skills. I hope your assistants know how blessed they are to learn these skills from a master tech like you. I know from trying to teach some people many years ago that some people just never seemed to grasp the concept of close tolerances. And I've found that true of some machinists too.
That’s near and dear for me, thanks for saving some good iron! Years ago I bought a 454 block, steel crank and rods out of a boat a boat that blew an oil cooler line and was driven with no oil pressure until it locked up near the shore. Seller sold it to me for scrap. The center main was spun so bad it bulged the cap out really bad and was completely black. Since the cape as wasted we snagged another from a scrapped 396 and worked on that thing all weekend. Definitely burned the “midnight oil” line honing that thing to accept some over/under bearing shells. My buddy ground the crank under, .020” mains, .010” mains rods while I squared the block up, zero decked and bored .030”. 20 yrs later still running as a daily driver that sees the 1/8th on some weekends and get the kids to school during the week :)
Ty for watching!
Wow. Never seen this done before and it gives me a new perspective of what goes into machining these blocks. I can talk to a machinist and imagine what he is trying to picture in my mind and where to go. Thanks for the show!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Last time I’ve seen that done is when I had an old fella do an in frame on my V8 Mack. He did everything inframe in my garage. The hone had a cradle that hung from the frame of the truck.
I was amazed that you could peen the cap out to fill the register. And you held the cap in your hand while you peened it! That is some great old school tech that i never heard of. Great work!
Tyvm
Nice save Daniel.
Came out pretty good.
Glad to see you using an oil pump on the rear cap.
You may tell your viewers why, they may not know.
That block had a bad line bore.
I can tell by the parting line
Big block Chevys are usually bad.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Great point!
Yep! Wonder what shop did that. Seen several Shops with a line boring machine and no where near the knowledge and experience to use it.
Keep in mind if the block sees enough heat it will occasionally crack, usually in the oil supply passage area. We'll just weld up the side of the cap and recut, or just replace the cap with a donor cap from a scrap block, but it's very interesting to see you can peen the collapse back out of the cap.
Best engine machining channel I've found.
Thanks, you guys. Really enjoying these.
We really appreciate you!, ty for watching
This is why I wear a Powell Machine Shop shirt on my off days. People will stop me and ask but most will read it and say hey I watch that guy.
Lol, that's good stuff right there!!
Align honing is my favorite thing to do, got a Donovan block to align hone tomorrow
Yeah, it's definitely not my favorite, but it's just another process
Such meticulous ability
and attention to detail still astounds me.
You are better than a true machinists. 👍
My dad taught me some things, but i never took up the art.
May God rest soul!
I was lead in another direction.
We will be talking 👄 in the future.
His soul
Andrew, the filming is great!
Ty, I will pass that on!
Great video. As a master ASE mechanic who only brought $200,000 worth of machines due to getting screw over. I hope your area realizes how blessed they are to have a REAL MACHINE SHOP close by.
Ty!! I really appreciate you!
I will say having the main cap attachment for the 750 cap grinder to index the caps 90° is a huge huge help. Jamison equipment sells them new USA made and a CBN wheel from Martin at performance plus makes cutting the caps soooooo much better! Love the videos man!
I have a cbn wheel, it's better but it doesn't do as good as I was lead to believe
@@powellmachineinc3179 hate to hear that, the one I have works amazing, use the white stone to clean it up and continue on
Wow i can't believe that peening works! That's pretty cool.
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent footage and a great example of how to fix... now if I start line bore measuring.. will I get arms like that?? Love the work
Lol, probably not
question? how many shops would go this much work as to turn the block around I guess very few.your thoughts nice save.
They shipped it from all the way in the lower part of the state...so I guess nobody else wanted to try.
You are setting the bore gauge up to the size you want and hone the bores to the size you want. That's why the reading on the gauge got smaller. Right? I know this is probably something everybody else knows but I've never been around this kind of stuff and was just trying to figure it out.
I’m curious how you got into the trade. Amazingly specialized technical knowledge. Very cool
Just always loved go fast hot rods and Grumpy Jenkins was my hero
During my time in the older way with repairs involved heating and brazing the blocks and caps after we bored the block to create an area for the mass of brass. Hand filing a peening everything until the block was good with blueing. Clip the caps as usual for the boring. At times we would finish hone if we had rough finishing.. Sometimes we'd have to really bore big and make soft steel sleeves and with push rod those in the block and replace the cap. There was always a way to get it right again. Some of it was race stuff and still used when the boys had no choice.
Thanks for investing your time and knowledge,had a guy a few yrs back fire half his help and the other half quit including his son and he hadn’t done any shop work for yrs just golfing but I had him align bore my 406 and I should have known better but I didn’t even begin to tighten the rear cap when it snapped and the registers were off too.still have it but haven’t fixed or used it yet but this gives me knowledge to go on,thanks
A lot of 375 hp- 396's got replaced. They rev-ed way pass the valve trains float rpm. You should not have thrown out that engine. Not before calling Powell Machine.
Peening. Never thought of it. Used it as a technique in industrial leak repair.
Definitely
wonderful..Thanks for uploading..Subbed for sure..
Thanks for the sub!
Fairly amazed, the main cap widened up, with penning process, you used. Nice lengthy upload. I enjoyed it, sir! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it
😂
I take it that South Carolina is still Gods Country.
Catfish from extinct Oakwood mobile would be proud.
I'm not a machinist and don't claim to know anything about it, but I do weld. When you weld steel it tends to pull in the direction of the weld. Would it be possible to run a few beads along the top of that cap to pull it back, then machine off the weld? Just curious.
Many thanks for the content. I don't build my own engines, I leave it to the experts, so I really appreciate this look behind the curtain, as my guys don't have time to show all their customers each build. Thanks to your videos, I can get an understanding of how everything is processed, love it 👍
Thanks for watching!
At Pete's machine(when I was a kid working there), Pete had align boring equipment where he could recut, or align cut all those caps. Now Pete would make sure all the oil galleys was clear, open and clean so oil would flow as needed in the engine. We use to use blue Loctite on the crank cap bolts to make sure they stayed where we torqued them. Also Pete had a crank grinding machine- seems there was always a crank in the machine getting reground by Terry back in those days.
I'm sure I'm not alone in saying, "thank you to you and your son for educating!" Time isn't free, especially when you have a shop like yours and the wait time only gets longer. Tatro Machine in San Diego, a Harley builder, primarily an iron only man is exactly like yourself when he builds. The last time I checked his wait time was over two years. So, job security yes, and people will pay to have it done right!
Yep, I have heard of him, we use to build a lot of big inch harley stuff back in the 2000's
That peening process is quite amazing….who would have thought
Got here by an accident, stayed due to the content! Well done Sir. Cheers from Brazil 🇧🇷.
Welcome!!
That was a class video it takes a lot of knowledge, experience and skill to do a job like this. Keep them coming😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
When I was 21, I was a E5 USN Submarine Sailor. I was married and had very little extra cash to play with engine mods. My 67 Impala, 327 at 75,000 miles killed a cam and needed to be rebuilt. Damn Quaker State Crap Oil!!! Devastation! So, being mechanically inclined and a DYI guy, I did the engine rebuild my self. Lucky for me, I found a local machine shop in a small town in CT that had a heart and good engine machinating skills. It was Larrys Machine Shop. You remind me of the owner. Knowledgeable, Kind, and SMART! I can not believe all the LS Engine knowledge that you have provide me. THANK YOU! You are the MAN! Bill
Quaker state is not crap oil, don't put the blame where it doesn't belong.
IMHO, It was not that good way back in the late 70s early 80s. I agree that its come a long way since then as well as other oils. I didn't like Penns Oil either but, Thats my go to oil now and it great stuff. @@jeffreydurham5342
If oil gets an SAE rating how can it be crap?
@@jeffreydurham5342
Temp of oil to make it burn. Didn't Valvoline flunk that test? Somebody published that test in '85 or '85?
thank you Andrew
That was a big mending process to save the block saddle and main cap. Good thing that customer cut the engine when he did.
Definitely
Great Content!! Excellent Work and Wow the patience to get it just right to 1/10 of a thou!! It looked like you have 3 or more hours into this block. At what point do you say, New Block, Or New Caps, and line bore? I can understand if this is a rare block and it would be hard to find a replacement.
Block had a lot of work previously, so a new block would be alot more money, I think it was about $400.00 to repair this one
@@powellmachineinc3179 Thanks for the info!! Excellent channel, keep you the great work!
Stumbled on you channel. Great video's. Always wanted to know more about machine shop work. Thanks for sharing from Tiffin, Ohio.
Awesome! Thank you!
Awesome job!!!
Thanks!!
Wow!! Now that's either some old school or secret squirrel machinist knowledge. I would never have thought that would work as well as it did. I wish I had known about your shop in the 90s.
You are a rare diamond machine shop and machinist, brother!
We appreciate that
I would love to see the correct way to select a new head gasket once a head has been skimmed and why checking piston protrusion is checked in relationship to selecting a head gasket size,regards Roy
Will do!
Great video, truly shows how much cast iron can be moved around to repair this cap & block.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Daniel. Is that just a machined standard you are checking the bore gauge with? I have the same gauge and use the matching Sunnen setting fixture. Thanks, really enjoy the channel, you are a master of the craft.
It's a precision gauge ring
I would think doing this would create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause interference between the rods and cam. Maybe not so much with the cam unless your stroked. There's also piston to deck height that I would think will be effected also.
It doesn't
I've line honed a couple hundred blocks over the years. I wish I would have know this peening trick back then. I use to stake the block with a round nose chisel to tighten the registers. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help
Yup, not only staking but using the staking on one or both sides to fit in a replacement cap from another block, also loosening the caps that are on size or close, to get a tight one to catch up. Align honing is an exercise in patience.
Very nicely done. Amazing! Could you explain the center line movement. Do you need a custom timing chain with shifting the center line. Looks like a .004 or .005 shift. Very skilled on this equipment. Thanks for taking the time to show this process.💯
77*1st
@@johnhuggins3671no custom timing chain required we are talking about very minimal Corrections in the alignment of the block during casting there is what they call Core shift that is more noticeable with the oil galleys that surround the camshaft bore but basically it gets everything true as possible. This will minimize any stress on the crankshaft itself when the main caps are torqued down and will also minimize excessive wear on any particular bearing for the crankshaft because everything is now perfectly concentric and in line in some cases it can also help minimize drag allowing for faster RPMs not that it's noticeable but if you are chasing tenths in a quarter mile these are definitely things that need to be looked at.
You at least backed your hunch that it could be fixed, many places just don't want to take the risk and use new stuff. Machines make new stuff but it is people who repair stuff and if they didn't none of the older stuff would be left to look at and appreciate where we came from.
Ty! 💯
What can be done if it didn't clean up? Make new cap? Keep going larger, use oversized bearings? Trash the block?
Just cut the cap more and hone back to correct size
Nice repair. I like the way you sneak up on the finish pass, too many guys are too aggressive to try to save time and ruin things. Good video
Right on
Patience never speed
I v done vw since 1963 no more machine shops in our area milton fla do vw dub eng work
Great work. Not sure how I got here but enjoy it. Southern accent is the heaviest I've ever heard but the captioning software is usually right.
I'm sure this is a dumb question but...Wouldn't it make more sense to machine it with the block on the top so the weight of the bar and gravity are cutting the caps more than the block? This way it seems like the block gets more material removed just due to gravity. I get that the idea is that it's cutting both sides so it's splitting the difference but with nothing to guide the bar other than the mains, it seems like just by nature it would cut the block more than the caps. I also get that the machine is using the block as the reference so flipping it around would be very complicated. So maybe it's just for simplicity's sake. One other question is what effect does the shortened distance from the crank center line to the cam and deck have? I get that it's only a few thousandths but that is also what we are removing here.
It doesn't work like that, but more info than I'm willing to type
Do you have a video on how this align honing machine functions? What’s telling it to make a bigger hole? Seems like the diameter of the stones on the rod is static and by force of gravity would only want to cut on the bottom. Obviously you demonstrated that this is not the case.
The stones expand with a dial
If after the effort, it was too bad to repair…
Would you get a new cap, caps, new engine, other?
Why not new cap, caps from the start?
Probably just buy a used block
i here by mistake. i total noob with mechanical work, but this so damn interesting. im currently 5 videos deep
Awesome!!
What couldn’t you replace the caps with say something like milodon caps grind then down a bit then line bore to get rid of the groves in the block.
Can, just costing 3 times as much for the same outcome.
I used Chad Golden racing engines and he built my motor from block up to build a 1200hp engine and within a week a rod went out side of motor in corvette and even sliced motor mount when rod came through the block…. Don’t ever use him….. wish this man could build me some hi power engines for my collection of muscle cars I have in my collection now… I currently hold over 100 cars in my collection and all frame off resto on most them cause I’m fussy and my cars conditions !! Got the fastest GNX GRAND NATIONAL IN THE COUNTRY RIGHT NOW
I used Chad Golden racing engines and he built my motor from block up to build a 1200hp engine and within a week a rod went out side of motor in corvette and even sliced motor mount when rod came through the block…. Don’t ever use him….. wish this man could build me some hi power engines for my collection of muscle cars I have in my collection now… I currently hold over 100 cars in my collection and all frame off resto on most them cause I’m fussy and my cars conditions !! Got the fastest GNX GRAND NATIONAL IN THE COUNTRY RIGHT NOW
Being as though the bearing spung, because of the crankshaft breaking, did anything happen to the rods?
Not sure, we only had the block
ShOcK & AWE. Just saying.... p.s. GR8T post editing!
Thank you so much 😀
I used NRE Nelson Racing Engines out California for my 2500 twin turbo LSX motor for my corvette ! Do you do engines like that ???
What about rear main seal sealiage after cutting caps that far.....will they bottom out?
No, we only took. 006"
Line honing that much must really loosen the timing chain. How do you fix that?
It doesn't, we only moved the crank .003"
thanks camera guy
Thanks ! Great Job !
Our pleasure!
Beautiful. Well done!
Greetings from Norway! 🙂
Ty, we appreciate you
andrew does a good job with that camera awesome video loved it.
I think so too!
I really like that you showed us how this repair work is done. The video of straightening the cam was really neat too! I wish you were closer..
Thank you
Nothing but the best from Daniel as always.
Ty sir!! We appreciate you
Wow, that was quite a procedure, I never knew they had bearing cap grinders. That honing shaft, how heavy is that, that machine is cool. I use to work at a machine shop and did cyl head grinding and seat grinding 40 years ago.
Andrew- Hello from Lake Norman NC, where many people are involved with motorsports and engine building. - I appreciate the work you’re doing to showcase Dad’s skills. I just subscribed to your channel so I’m looking forward to seeing more of your work on behalf of your Dad, and learning more about the basics of automotive machining.
those Sunnen gauges are a joy to use
The setting fixture is nice as well.
Very interesting. Never heard about that process
When you cut the caps down so ID is good, do you mess up the balance?
No,
Just curious how much did it move the crankshaft up 5-6 tho🤔
.003
You forgot to mention the "big ol' jug" of patience!
Being a Limey my Canadian wife and her parents had a hard time understanding my accent at first. You got me beat by a mile :)
Dumb question, air hammer bits are hard, are main caps near the same hardness?
Cast iron is soft
Do you have to remachine the groove that the tangs on the bearings click into?
No, it's way bigger that needed from the factory
Thanks to Andrew AND You. I can't say I've ever seen anyone peen the cap like that, alrhough ut makes sense.
I've seen and have peened the edges of the registers in the block before, but I wqs literally just going through the motions of What My mentor taught Me, always thinking it was a suspect way of "fixing" the problem..
Thanks for all You share man, good stuff.
You're welcome!
You don't have another cap? You're going to line bite it anyhow
Another cap creates even more problems.
Great info , being a guy that's done this stuff , great to see info for the public that it's not just my words on how much work this is .
Absolutely!, thank you
I appreciate the upload and the knowledge your sharing, first time seeing these tools in action. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching!
ALIGN---hone--not "line" hone. "Line hone" is a hick term
I'm a hick.....
Great video !!! You showed so much skill and good judgement to do this precision work properly... Lots of steps and checking of the measurements... The patience and careful procedures really paid off!!! Good job!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! My son has learned a ton from you, so have I! Keep it up
Great to hear!
1 question: is this motor gonna be a daily driver or a daily racer? Hahahaha
It's a drag race deal
@powellmachineinc3179 you know the line in the movie Jaws, where the lead character says, "you're gonna need a bigger boat" that's why I was laughing.
Heat does funny things to metal, as you well know. You're good and honest. I like that
Had the talk with my machinist today. He said, you're gonna need more octane. I just started at him and said but but but, his reply?
You're gonna need more octane. . . LoL
Fantastic video
Thanks for the visit
love it!! Learning every time!!! thanks
Glad to hear it!
You need to wear gloves to protect yourself from the cutting fluids, as they do cause kidney cancer. As a lifelong machinist, I was diagnosed with kidney cancer in my mid 40's. So consider protecting yourself.
It was good to see you checking your bore gauge often. Checking your measuring tools is the most important advice I give to young machinists.
The sulfur in the fluid heals cuts. A side benefit is it also attracts hot women.
Never seen a restoration like that...Very Cool !
Ty
Experience on display right there. Nice save.
Ty, I appreciate that
What holds the main bearings in place the notch?
Crush
Thanks for sharing your skills. Thanks Andrew excellent job filming.
Glad you enjoyed it
The pinging tool trick is ingenious. I would have never thought that thick metal would have moved that much
Definitely, it's a trip
A lot work for what you get paid and people don’t understand the time it takes to do a job right
i really love this guy. he takes time to explain things in an honest way.