Great video. My LT10 is a different setup, but I think basically the same concept...though I’ve never had to fiddle with tracking yet. I’ll remember this when the time comes! Thanks!
Great video Ben! Fun to see how others do the same thing. Although, this is pretty much the same exact way I do it. You explained this very well. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent explanation and good close up camera shots. Your camera shots follow the words coming out your mouth perfectly. Very easy for people to follow along. If anybody can't figure out blade taking after this video and woodland mills video, they should probably sell their mill and go back to buying from menards.
If I remember correctly, Woodland Mills suggest a "business card thick" space between the blade and bearings. I used to WD-40 those guide bearings all the time. Not sure if it helps but it kept them from rusting. I always liked how they would give you the specs for the bearings so you could buy them locally. Great company to deal with. I'm sure you're going to help some folks with this video!
Great job Ben Liked the way you explained what happens to the wheel and therefore the blade. Even though I don’t have any problem with my tracking at this time. This video will help me to remember how to adjust if needed.
Chris Cox, It was hard for me to explain by text so I figured showing is always easier. I am glad to see so many of my subscribers are still following me. I appreciate the support.
Very good information Ben....now all I`m missing is a saw mill....very well explained....just being smart here....you can tell the teachers at school had a hard time with me.....CHEERS
Thanks for the demo , easy to follow, mine actually started throwing blades when in use and ended up bending the blades making them useless , found a missing setscrew on the blade guide adjustment so starting from scratch to re align everything. hoping to save my bend blade if possible.
Good vid. FYI I was having a little trouble getting mine to track, so they had me push the roller bearings back and set the tracking, then set the roller bearings. That seems to work for me.
Thanks, when both wheels get out of whack it takes a lot of hit and miss to line them One fella said to take a straight edge across both wheels and said that works well too.
My 122 went through 4 blades in less than 30 hours total use. The drive belt is shot along with both guide bearings. I had to have two new shafts sent to me which was offset in order to reset or set the guide bushings middle way of each other for precision otherwise they rubbed the guide bushing holder. Originally the drive wheel was off and it was supposed to be set at the factory but evidently was not and caused me all kinds of headache to get both in line eventually. I got to wait now to get two new back bearings and hope i do not run into anything else. I did not ever have any up or down wavering of the blade when cutting the log. It went straight but where the track went together it the roller hit and stopped. It was the track that was not machined level to each other. The bottom was level but the top of one track was off by about a 1/16 th inch. I ground that down but it left a light rise in the track but not enough to make alarm. It was not right to begin with.
My new 126 is throwing blades too!! I'm following the steps in the manual word for word and still tossing them. Going to check calibration on my torque wrench next. If thats fine I'll be on the phone with woodland mills
I am having no luck getting my blade adjusted on my woodland hm 130 2019 model , i have tried everything mentioned in the owners manual and followed advice on different videos, put a new drive belt on and adjusted it to one quarter inch of deflection, used straight edge to insure the drive wheel is aligned, i put a new blade on after i wiped it down with brake cleaner to get oil residue off , Both small blade idler bearings are set, i have used one eighth to one quarter adjustments for alignment , the blade is flush with the back of the drive and idler pulleys and when i turn the idler pulley by hand the blade seems to track good , but as soon as i try to speed it up it wants to runs off the back side of the idler pulley. anyone have other suggestions it would be appreciated. Tried woodland tech support but they seem to be over run and am unable to talk to anyone, you are asked to leave a message and someone will get back to you within 1 to 3 business days. Pretty frustrating if you have more than one question, not sure how many of you have that kind of time to wait. Help please
I'd think if you were too tight then it would also pull the set out of the teeth. I have run old saws that the bearings were pour in instead of pillow block style and they were dangerous when the bearings went out. I had a blade break when I coiled it up and then when I looked at it, it was cracked all over the place and that was from other sawers running the blade too tight. They had a tension tightening wheel right under the wheel... this is a shake saw and the blade ran sideways so you could put boards through and then cut the length with it starting on one side of this narrow board and finishing on the other so you wound up with two tapered shakes out of one board if I ain't lost you yet/LOL (one wheel above the other and the blade is vertical) so the wheel was adjusted from the middle and it was dangerous as heck. I push them right off the wheels cause the blade was dull and pushing too hard. Makes a lot of racket and scares the sawyer.
Thats the easy side. I cant even get mine to stay on. One side pops off then the other. It only tracks off. Adjust, tracks off, adjust, tracks off, adjust, tracks off etc. You can back off the bearings. Measure 3/8 off the wheels. Get it to track and do some fuckin voodoo dance, toss salt over your shoulder, get it to track, then you can scoot the bearings into place.
Great video. My LT10 is a different setup, but I think basically the same concept...though I’ve never had to fiddle with tracking yet. I’ll remember this when the time comes! Thanks!
Thanks for that demonstration Ben! It was very clear and easy to understand. Hope you have a great week!
Thanks this is super helpful!!
You're welcome
Great video Ben! Fun to see how others do the same thing. Although, this is pretty much the same exact way I do it. You explained this very well. Thanks for sharing!
Dillons Woodworks, trying to type it out I was confusing myself lol. I decided a short video would be better. Thanks for watching.
watched your video ,to get mine back on track worked great ....thanks
Exactly what I needed to see. Thank you
Excellent explanation and good close up camera shots. Your camera shots follow the words coming out your mouth perfectly. Very easy for people to follow along. If anybody can't figure out blade taking after this video and woodland mills video, they should probably sell their mill and go back to buying from menards.
Good video , I have the same sawmill , have not messed with the blade tracking yet but am confident it will not be an issue . thanks
If I remember correctly, Woodland Mills suggest a "business card thick" space between the blade and bearings. I used to WD-40 those guide bearings all the time. Not sure if it helps but it kept them from rusting. I always liked how they would give you the specs for the bearings so you could buy them locally. Great company to deal with. I'm sure you're going to help some folks with this video!
Northwest Sawyer, I figure if it helps one person or was worth making. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great job Ben
Liked the way you explained what happens to the wheel and therefore the blade. Even though I don’t have any problem with my tracking at this time. This video will help me to remember how to adjust if needed.
Chris Cox, It was hard for me to explain by text so I figured showing is always easier. I am glad to see so many of my subscribers are still following me. I appreciate the support.
Thanks, was getting some issues this morning wasted a day traveling since no internet at the cottage. Will fix next trip up cheers!
Great job of explaining. Thanks!
Thank you good sir. Very informative and concise.
Nice job! Very well explained. Thanks
You're welcome.
Very good information Ben....now all I`m missing is a saw mill....very well explained....just being smart here....you can tell the teachers at school had a hard time with me.....CHEERS
Lol, well at least now you know how in case you ever decide to get one.
Thanks for the demo , easy to follow, mine actually started throwing blades when in use and ended up bending the blades making them useless , found a missing setscrew on the blade guide adjustment so starting from scratch to re align everything. hoping to save my bend blade if possible.
Good vid. FYI I was having a little trouble getting mine to track, so they had me push the roller bearings back and set the tracking, then set the roller bearings. That seems to work for me.
Thanks, when both wheels get out of whack it takes a lot of hit and miss to line them One fella said to take a straight edge across both wheels and said that works well too.
good tips
My 122 went through 4 blades in less than 30 hours total use. The drive belt is shot along with both guide bearings. I had to have two new shafts sent to me which was offset in order to reset or set the guide bushings middle way of each other for precision otherwise they rubbed the guide bushing holder. Originally the drive wheel was off and it was supposed to be set at the factory but evidently was not and caused me all kinds of headache to get both in line eventually. I got to wait now to get two new back bearings and hope i do not run into anything else. I did not ever have any up or down wavering of the blade when cutting the log. It went straight but where the track went together it the roller hit and stopped. It was the track that was not machined level to each other. The bottom was level but the top of one track was off by about a 1/16 th inch. I ground that down but it left a light rise in the track but not enough to make alarm. It was not right to begin with.
My new 126 is throwing blades too!! I'm following the steps in the manual word for word and still tossing them. Going to check calibration on my torque wrench next. If thats fine I'll be on the phone with woodland mills
Good wel interested how to buy it
And the rate of engine and the frame post only
Thanks :-)
I am having no luck getting my blade adjusted on my woodland hm 130 2019 model , i have tried everything mentioned in the owners manual and followed advice on different videos, put a new drive belt on and adjusted it to one quarter inch of deflection, used straight edge to insure the drive wheel is aligned, i put a new blade on after i wiped it down with brake cleaner to get oil residue off , Both small blade idler bearings are set, i have used one eighth to one quarter adjustments for alignment , the blade is flush with the back of the drive and idler pulleys and when i turn the idler pulley by hand the blade seems to track good , but as soon as i try to speed it up it wants to runs off the back side of the idler pulley.
anyone have other suggestions it would be appreciated.
Tried woodland tech support but they seem to be over run and am unable to talk to anyone, you are asked to leave a message and someone will get back to you within 1 to 3 business days.
Pretty frustrating if you have more than one question, not sure how many of you have that kind of time to wait.
Help please
"How do you track the blade"
Me: UPS, *points to tracking number*
That "wood" be the best way to do it. Lol
Ah, you beat me!
I'd think if you were too tight then it would also pull the set out of the teeth. I have run old saws that the bearings were pour in instead of pillow block style and they were dangerous when the bearings went out. I had a blade break when I coiled it up and then when I looked at it, it was cracked all over the place and that was from other sawers running the blade too tight. They had a tension tightening wheel right under the wheel... this is a shake saw and the blade ran sideways so you could put boards through and then cut the length with it starting on one side of this narrow board and finishing on the other so you wound up with two tapered shakes out of one board if I ain't lost you yet/LOL (one wheel above the other and the blade is vertical) so the wheel was adjusted from the middle and it was dangerous as heck. I push them right off the wheels cause the blade was dull and pushing too hard. Makes a lot of racket and scares the sawyer.
Thats the easy side. I cant even get mine to stay on. One side pops off then the other. It only tracks off. Adjust, tracks off, adjust, tracks off, adjust, tracks off etc. You can back off the bearings. Measure 3/8 off the wheels. Get it to track and do some fuckin voodoo dance, toss salt over your shoulder, get it to track, then you can scoot the bearings into place.
Bro make a sawmill in easy way