Stopping Sawmill Blade from Jumping Off
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2019
- Despite the crummy late fall weather here in Central Ontario Canada, I'm out doing what I love to do and that's cutting wood. One of the most useful tools I own is my Woodland Mills HIM130. This sawmill has been put through it's paces and come back swinging. This one tip I learned a while back has saved me alot of headache and some money to boot. Today I"ll pass along the tips to you folks as we all work to get things up and running smoothly on our own mills. I'm sure if you're watching this video you've encountered the dreaded "BANG" sound as one of your brand new sawmill blades has jumped off the wheels. Hopefully after doing these two things that dreaded sound will be a sound of the past. Nothing worse then spending $15+ (CDN) on a blade and then having it jump off the wheels and be ruined without cutting more than a single log.
- Навчання та стиль
Looks like the perfect time for snow cones.
Oooo. That retorque tip was a good one. My smartphone must have heard me swear over the sound of my mill today and recommended this video
Sandy, My friend and I have just bought a HM 130 with trailer and extension. This was in large part because of your videos which have proved helpful. We live in the mountains of Western North Carolina. My friend previously had a chainsaw mill and produced many fish shaped boards. I have no doubt this mill will be a great improvement. We have pine, popular, and red oak and occasionally walnut.
That’s great to hear Fred! The new mill will be a great addition for ya I’m sure. Hope all is well with you
Thank you for the tips, all of them. I was looking for exactly this info because I threw belts 3 times today and that gets to a person 😉
Thanks for the video Sandy! I'm heading up to my place in Minden, Ontario today and your video reminded me that I should empty the water out of my sawmill tank as it could start to freeze.
Kryton619 I think you just reminded me to do the same actually haha
Great video Sandy. I have had my WM 126 since 2014. There was a large learning curve involved for me. However now it's mostly second nature when running it. Up til today I have never had a band jump off the wheels. You and I do blade installs pretty much the same way. A methodical approach is the best way in my opinion, you as well from what I see. I'm on Vancouver Island and cut mostly fir with some cedar. Thanks for the refresher.
I agree I prefer having the method down and just repeating as well. Beautiful part of the country you live in. I love getting out onto the island whenever I can. One of the nicest places in Canada for sure.
Your videos are awesome, keep up the great work !
like all the videos,going to order mine after Christmas so for now I am learning from you thinks brother.from the mountains of Arkansas
Rob.gov G.money good to hear from you. I love how useful the mill is. I’d hate to have to start buying lumber again.
Exactly!!!! Me too. Keeps jumping off every 3rd day but without making any changes. Its running great, then out of no wjere blammo. Pops off.
At 6:30 Turning the wheels WILL NOT turn the crankshaft unless your centrifugal clutch is welded together. Engine rpm engages the clutch (or disengages it, depending on how you look at it).
This is true
Thanks Sandy. Very helpful!
Glad you liked the video Scott
Great tips, thank you!
Thanks for the tips - especially the re-torque. I just got my HM130 and have gone through 4 blades in 2 days. Two of them jumped after my second pass. Very discouraging but your video gives me hope!
Yeah I know the feeling and the blades aren’t cheap as I’m sure you know. You’ll get the hang of it and then you’ll go a while without having one pop off. I haven’t had a blade pop off in probably a year
Maybe more than a year actually
good stuff, I think you just solved my problem. thanks
Very helpful!
Yes the snow is coming it’s here for some of us. Good tips I’m sure it will come handy for some people.
Denis D at least get people thinking about checking before firing up the machine
Hey Sandy i believe you missed the most important reason a blade comes off early. The belt on the driven wheel will wear quickly and needs to be tightened to prevent slipping on the drive clutch when you tighten the belt it pulls on the driven pulley and seats inside the pulley deeper causing the blade to contact the cast iron pulley instead of riding on the outside of the belt, the result is no grip to keep the blade in place and so it flys off and breaks teeth off everytime. This happened to me in the first 6 blades from new, and part of the problem is dawn in the water for lube that just caused the belt to ride to far in the pulley and lets the blade contact the cast iron pulley prematurely, dont use lube in your water. Another problem is the stock belt that comes with it isn't wide enough to accommodate for any stretch, v-belts even with teeth grip on their sides and not the end of their teeth and when the sides wear the slightest bit the belt will not make contact with the blade because it is deeper in the driven pulley. After tensioning the blade using proper torquing then check the distance visually between the blade and driven pulley they should not contact at all that distance could go to less than a match book cover but if they start to touch your blade will fly off unexpectedly, kinda like hitting a patch of black ice on the highway. Why put out a video on blades coming off and not address the biggest reason why? Because then you would have to admit the stock belts are inferior. I'm on my second stock belt and just 7 blades from new this second belt is very close to needing replacing and when it comes off visually it will look new. I will be searching for a better quality belt that fits the pulley better and that will save blades for sure.
Thanks for sharing info about your experiences Jeffrey.
Yep you are right. I’ve had so much trouble with mine from day one and I’m not new to these mills but I’ve had enough. Guess I’ll try a wood mizer
@@traviskelly5480 hey Travis don't give up woodland mills sawmills are a great product and for the money they are hard to beat. They also have very good service after the sale.
Thanks from the great White North
Hey great video with lots of good info. I thought I had my 122 setup and not throwing blades anymore. I was on my second log with new blade and trying to look at something so I had it running but not in a log. Might have a had a little bit too much water running and my blade popped off. Do you think running with water on not in wood could cause blade to pop off?
Good advice
Thanks Bill
Thanks. Again
Don't forget the horizontal idlers/guide blocks. The blade should not touch them. Not continuously, at least. If the blade appears to be flush, it might be so just because of the guides. Release the guides and make sure it's still flush
Don't forget to take pressure of the torque wrench when you're finished - if you don't I understand it will wear overtime with the spring under constant tension...
That’s a great tip. I’ve not heard that one either but won’t hurt to do it anyways . Thanks
Hi Sandy is it normal that when i am sawing in some areas of the lumber i fell vibrations thanks
Hello from from the Quebec Laurentians! We just got a HM130MAX and after the whole assembly feat, we finally got it fired up and running.
Had it cut 8 passes and made our first 4 planks and cant. We ran it dry, as recommended by the manufacturer. Then we proceeded to fill the tank with a bit of dish soap, again as recommended by the manufacturer. The blade pooped off. It was assumed there was too much water which created some type of hydroplaning. We cut off the water. Adjusted the track alignment on the driven wheel and it seems to always always pop off regardless.
The driven wheel's alignment is perfect, but the driving wheel seems to always pull the blade inwards.
It seems to pop off when we let go of the throttle (from full throttle).
The 2021 version of the HM130MAX has the driving wheel alignment done from factory and the have a sticker mentioning not to touch the alignment. Nothing in the manual mentions anything about alignment of that wheel - only the driven wheel. With such little information, I'm assuming it's quite difficult to help, but what are your recommendations, if any? Anyone else have a clue?
Thank for the help! Especially your videos and information!
did you ever get this resolved? I am having similar issues with hm122. I am thinking i have been over tightening the blade by going flush to the washer. I will be using a torque wrench to see if that helps. Not sure what else could be going on.
@@wayshowersudbury382 yes Sir! That's precisely the problem. Those Belleville washer "automatic" torque systems are great, but they need to be calibrated - something that doesn't seem to be done from factory. So yes, the problem was completely resolved when I resorted to a torque wrench and set to 24lb ft
When we're new to something, we don't have a base to compare to and using the Belleville washer torque system, if not set properly, ends up more often than not OVER-tightning the blades and forces them to spin off as it creates too much stress on the driving wheel. 3 blades were spun off due to this initial problem. Believe me, I was losing it...🤪
Also, I had to play a bit with the alignments, even the driven wheel (the one that is labeled to NOT adjust).
Depending on the year of your saw and if not already done, I'd go on their site and check the updates and whatnot. They came out with additional documentation saying that the new Belleville torquing systems were not set accurately from factory and to always check with a torque wrench. Also, they did mention that you could play with the driven wheel alignment if need be. Something that was proscribed in the original documents.
Let us know if that helps!
Cheers
I’ll have to remember the re-torque tip. Haven’t had a blade jump off in a long time. But I also haven’t used my HM 130 as much as you have. Been way to hot this year to do much sawing
Chris Cox we had a few hot days but hot for here is probably not the same. Where abouts are you from?
Sawing with Sandy
South east Georgia not to far north of Florida.
Chris Cox nice area down there. I drove from Ontario down to Orlando back in July. You’ve got some nice rest stops along your highways down there. I just can’t get over how fast the truck drivers drive through the mountains though in Virginia.
Sawing with Sandy
If you came through Georgia on I-95 you passed by about 5 miles from my place.
Back in April the Dillon family (Dillons woodworks) stopped by for a visit on their way home from Orlando
Chris Cox I can’t remember what highway I was on but I do know it took me through Daytona beach before heading inland towards Orlando. It’s a nice drive for the most part. Was this route I took the i95?
Hi Sandy ya we gotta be safe this is good information for us new guys. I was wondering do you have issues with mice getting into you vehicles and chewing them up and making electrical problems? What do ya think about the blade sharpener that woodland mills sell? Thanks for being out there buddy and sharing
Heyyou Buddy I’m fortunate the mice haven’t chewed any wiring but they sure do love to make nests in my tool boxes and camper and all that. I looked into the sharpener but it’s a big price to swallow. Plus I’d also have to fine a tooth straightener so with that I’d be in over 1000$. I’m not sure I’d see a return unless I used the sharoener for a couple years.
Put dryer sheets in vehicles. Supposed to keep mice away. Failing that, mothballs
I just purchased a LM130max. The blade keeps jumping off. I have followed directions and watched your videos on blade alignment. When I get blade aligned on the idler pulley, it still rides in too far on drive pulley, and blade jumps off to inside. I can’t get ahold of anyone from company support line. The drive pulley was supposed to be factory aligned and shouldn’t be touched. I did adjust because I was out of ideas and it seemed to me the drive wheel was the problem. I don’t trust a factory alignment done in China. (Really wish this company would build these in Canada). The tensioning system calls for screwing it down to the flush position, but this seems too tight, as it takes a lot of force to get it there. I have checked blade alignment at various speeds, and it will remain aligned until full throttle is applied. Any suggestions? I have attempted to align both wheels with a measuring tape, and then fine tuned with idler wheel. I am at a loss, have ruined 2 blades and not made a single cut, and can’t get through to company. Please help. Are there any service people in Alberta. I doubt it.
Just set up my 130max yesterday and I am having the same issue. The blade is coming off towards the back on the drive wheel. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks
@@kevinh5600 I'm no expert by any means, but the wheels have to be co-planar. I've seen posts on a Woodland Mills group on Facebook where people have said, yes, ther is a sticker that says not to touch the drive pulley alignment, but they had to to get the wheels to be co-planar.
A guy on another channel installed a short piece of 1x4 behind the blade in the upper left quadrant of the blade case. This prevents the blade from coming off to the inside, which tends to wreck the teeth. This is not a solution to the blades not tracking correctly, it just prevents the blade from coming off to the inside.
What's the distance between guides and blade..?
Unfortunately I"m not sure but if my memory serves me right it'll saw a 28" log. The new HM130max sawmill I have will saw 30" I believe
I just purchased an HM 130 Max cut several logs without a problem then I threw my first blade and now I can't seem to keep one on it ,I add tension and it seems to be tracking okay but on the second cut every time the blade pops any ideas ?
I’d think it could be the lubricant. I found that when I used water and pine soil mix I often would kick a blade off but when I used dish soap and water I never did
@@sawingwithsandy thank you for the advice 😎👍
It's worth the price of a blade !!!
joe volk sure is
i got an hm 130 max, and the blade keep coming off no matter what we do . i ve send a message to the dealer and im waiting for their reply!! the blade look to follow the wheel, ive turn it by hand like 20 times, its stays on track, fire the thing up, go like half rpm, all go well, and when im pushing it a bit more to go higher on rpm, its jumps off every time!
nice videos, and channel by the way!!
Thanks for checking out my videos. If the blade comes off I’d say the tracking is still off and so may need more adjustment on the follower bandwheel. I’d also be sure the blade guides aren’t rubbing the blade and that the belts have no cuts or chunks out of them. Hope that helps
the problem, was the tension on the blade, probably not enough, we were using the torq wrench, at woodland, they sugest us to do it by hand, with the 2 1/2 turn, and now its ok. excuse my bad english, im a french guy from the gaspé coast!!
I have the HM 122 I just made a video of my blade that keeps jumping off. I'm in contact with Woodland Mills to see if they can send someone to help me. Feel free to check it out if you have time maybe you might be able to help.
1. Don’t put soap in the water. 2. Sawdust will collect in the blade guide area. This sawdust will help dry the blade after it leaves the wood.
If rotating the blade by hand turns the motor over you need a new clutch for sure😜
haha you're right. After I put out this video I saw that and thought to myself, "wait a minute" haha