MAS Table Top Epoxy Resin DIY - How To Apply - Using MAS Epoxies for Table Tops, Counter Tops & Bars
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- MAS Table Top Epoxy Resin DIY - How To Apply - Using MAS Epoxies for Table Tops, Counter Tops & Bars... This video is a quick rundown of the process we use here in our shop to apply MAS Epoxies Table Top Pro epoxy resin finish to live edge slab tables and bar tops. This is meant to give the average DIY'er some insight as to how epoxy resin finish is applied and the some of the tools and supplies needed to get the job done with professional results!
We are using MAS Table Top Pro epoxy resin for this project. Basic tools and supplies are needed and a list is provided below of many of the items we use in this video. Links to the items are also included. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have about applying epoxy resin finish to table tops and bar tops. We will be happy to help you out in any way that we can!
Also, MAS Epoxies has agreed to give us a discount code for any of our social media followers to use at checkout on their website so you can save some money on any epoxy purchase made on their website. masepoxies.com/ at checkout put in the discount code knotthead20 to recieve a 20% discount on any purchase from their website.
Thank you all for watching and your support! If you enjoy watching our videos, please do not forget to SUBSCRIBE and click on that bell to be notified as we post new videos. And please, by all means, feel free to leave questions or comments down below.
Tools and Equipment used in this video (affiliate links included)
MAS Epoxy Resin - amzn.to/2LSb2qa
Mixing containers 2.5qt - amzn.to/2OqVkE7
Mixing container 5qt - amzn.to/31V1EI9
Stir sticks - amzn.to/2VlgxRo
Chip brush - amzn.to/31XiHZR
Wooster short brush (single) - amzn.to/2MnD23X
Wooster shirt brush (12 pack) - amzn.to/31ZSb28
Rubber squeegee - amzn.to/2nuN4rQ
Notched trowel - amzn.to/35p9OdY
Paint mixer - amzn.to/35eEU7L
Nitrile gloves - amzn.to/33d0xnf
3M Scotch Brite Scuff Pads Very Fine and Ultra - amzn.to/3bg9Qt1
Filming equipment we use:
Tripod - amzn.to/2yK85Ri
Smartphone tripod adapter - amzn.to/2ZlzLeN
GoPro Hero7 - amzn.to/2KYANEJ
Gopro Hero9 - amzn.to/3itbf1D
Rode Wireless Go Mic - amzn.to/32blr5U
Rode Wireless Go - Compact Wireless Microphone System, Transmitter and Receiver - amzn.to/3p0pVrx
ULANZI V2 GoPro Housing - amzn.to/2KwbGfi
GoPro Pro 3.5mm Mic Adapter - amzn.to/3sHphlk
Social media:
Instagram - / knottheadcustomsawing
Facebook - / knottheadscustomsawing
Many of the tools and items we use in our videos are available in our Amazon Shop below:
www.amazon.com...
Ive played with ER in the past and had mixed results, now i know why, Ive overlooked seal coating before the main coat.....makes all the difference. Especially in a large job like a table top. Thanks guys. Quality information here. great production.
Looks awesome. Thanks for the tips. Do you do any sanding or buffing after the flood coat? Or are you done once the flood coat cures? Also, how much time are you waiting between the seal coats and sanding?
Thanks for the video and all of the detailed answers. This helps reduce the pucker factor out of my first project with epoxy. I'm glueing up two mirror slabs of cottonwood and your help has given me a more confidence in the process. Thanks a bunch!!
No problem at all! Happy to help in any way I can, just let me know if you have questions! Don’t worry too much about messing anything up, the worst that can happen is you end up having to do more sanding and give it another go! It’s all part of learning a new skill and you will learn more from doing it and figuring out what you can do different or better the next time 👍🏼 Let er’ rip and let me know if you have any questions! And let me know how it turns out for you for sure! 😁
Oh my that is a beautiful slab, thank you for sharing you secret. I will try that epoxy on my first slab table I build! Thanks guys for doing what y’all do
+Heyyou Buddy Thanks man! This one is a pretty awesome slab! Personally I love the slabs with grafts in them like this one 👍🏼 and thanks for your support here on YT!!!
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx how thick do you think you have poured with all the different stages?
what a knotthead...haha. Great video for me, just built a 4x10 bar with raised top and already have the materials to do the tops with epoxy. Thanks for the tips and tricks and I'll keep watching for sure
Yea buddy! KnottHeads for sure!!! Gotta enjoy your days! Good to hear about your bar project, if you have any questions just let me know, happy to help if I can!!! 👍
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx The product worked great, I ended up using 4 gallons so far, also because I left my edge trim up higher than the top so I could build it up and self level. It needs one last thin coat. One thing I didn't pay enough attention to was any small gap or end to edge on the C shape top, and the epoxy found every little gap. I believe that I have it all sealed now for the last coat. Thanks a lot to your video, I had the knowledge to jump in feet first and now it looks great. Thank again guys
Glad to hear it worked out well for you and yes, resins will find all the holes to drip out of for sure! 🤣😂🤣 Let me know anytime you have questions, I’m always happy to help!
Extremely impressive!!!!
Thank you very much! keep an eye out as we hope to start posting on a more regular basis and we have some really big logs coming!!!
OMG that is incredible. I need to mix some of this into my woodworking now !! Thank you for explaining the process so well. Nice work bro !!
Thank you! it's not really that hard to do resin work, provided you work with the resins as they are designed to be used! Try you'll see how easy it is!
Great informative video!
Thank you! Hopefully it can help some folks out!
Thanks for sharing getting ready to try it on a piece of Black Walnut
+Monnie Holt You betcha! It works very well on black walnut as you can see 😎 Thanks Monnie!
Very helpful, thanks for sharing
Looking great!
thanks guys very good video :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
I love it best one I’ve seen!!
Thank you very much!
I watched your video (thank you) & several others. I’ve yet to learn what happens/how does one address the bottom side where it drips down. How is the bottom side tackled? Thank you.
How do you clean the brushes you used? Or do you have ti buy new ones for every project?
I learned something.
Glad you learned something! Thanks man!
Curious what you do to the underside to seal?
What you're doing really looks great - I just attempted to finish a butcher block top I made. Using the same Epoxy by MAS I mixed at a 1 to 1 ratio and it was twice as thick as what I see in your video. So when using my heat gun and popping the bubbles, in some places it left dimples and I also noticed some waves did you do anything to thin out your mix? Was the Epoxy I was using maybe too old? I bought it new and was still sealed. I used their sealer first, now I have applied two flood coats. Of course I did sand in between coats. Any suggestions?
Does it depend on wood type? Specifically white oak
Wow. This looks great and super helpful since I just opened my first epoxy (MAS Table Top) and applied my first seal coat. I used way way too much epoxy for the seal coat so most of it got squeegeed off and even more just solidified in the mixing cup. The instructions say to sand after a seal coat with 80-120 grit, but your 220 technique makes sense. Also hadn’t occurred to me to do a second seal coat. Thanks for the great video. Subscribed.
Do you not need to use a torch on the seal coats?
I have a question u have a small dip about the size of a quarter is there a way to Address that without doing a re pour?
Have you used Rubio over Mas table top and if so happy with results?
Great job. Question: If you find a flaw (a bug or a small sticky spot) after you finish and the rest has hardened, do you have to repour the entire table or can you just touch up the small area?
Brian, there are multiple ways to deal with bugs, if you can get them picked out of the resin while it is still flowable so to speak you can grab them out of the resin with a pin nail or tweezers and the resin will flow back together with no issues, if the resin is past its flowing point and hardening up, after its done curing you can try to polish it out, but you would most likely have to sand and polish the entire piece & most resins polish best after they have had a lengthy cure time, the harder the resin is the better it will polish... In my opinion most times it is easier to let it cure the recommended length of time, scuff sand it and flood another coat onto the piece... for me it's just easier to put on another flood coat than to do all that sanding and polishing.
As far as a small sticky spot from something not getting mixed in well, chances are that spot will remain sticky forever and never really harden up, the only solution for that is to remove as much of the uncured resin as you can and apply another flood coat over the entire thing... If there is a large area of uncured resin that is sticky, unfortunately it has to be removed because it will never harden correctly and effect what ever goes over it in the long run...
Hope that helps and let me know if you have any more questions!
Can u use on even a canvas paint I have try one nit dashing first name just nit for me glass but hopping mabe u can use this one I bought some can’t wait !!!!
You should be able to use this resin on a canvas painting, at least I don't see why you couldn't do it... I have never done it but I would give it a try if I did paintings just to see if it did what I wanted it to! Let me know how it turns out for you when you try it! 👍
Hey Guys, great video! I did a seal coat on both sides of my stained redwood burl slab so my wife could see which side she likes best. This was done in my garage. Both sides dried with dust on each side during drying time. I know I'll sand of the dust fpr the next coats, but should I do my next pour in my garage expecting more dust, or should I do it indoors where there is less dust? I'm looking for a flawless finish like yours. Ideas?
Tim Gillette only way to get that super smooth glossy laid out finish is to do what ever you can to eliminate the dust! The dust will get you on a flawless finish every time! Its pretty hard to control dust sometimes 🤷🏻♂️
do you have any videos showing your sanding process to get to this stage? I have some wood slabs that I just picked up.
Not currently Adam, but I will add this to the list of videos we need to get uploaded! Thanks
Nice work KnottHead! What did you do to the bottom side of the slab? Thanks for sharing your Knowledge!
+Mikayla Smith Thank you! And we seal up the bottoms with poly, varnish, lacquer or conversion varnish, just depends on the project...
Have you ever covered over a painted surface with this product? I have a painted bar top that i would like to go over but am unsure if this would cause the base coat to 'Lift" or not?
Hi Mike... Yes, we have applied MAS epoxies over painted stuff before and it will work out just fine, you just have to remember that the bond will only be as good as the bond of the paint to the surface... So with that being said, if the paint job isn't done correctly or in good condition, there may eventually be issues with the bond... But the things we have put MAS epoxies over that have had paint on them we have not had any failures!
What is the blue stuff on the table top. Can you make a video about it?
It's just colored resin that we use to fill splits and voids... Yes we can make a video on how we do that one of these days 👍
Nice ! I wanna try it myself but I want to add color pigment ? Does this epoxy work with pigment?
+J.O 96 any of the MAS resins really will work with pigments, how you do it will change from resin to resin based on what you are doing with it, but yes it will 👍🏼
That turned out really nice. How do you clean up the run off on the sides.
Good question! After the resin has cured we grind and sand the drips off the bottom, then apply a finish to the bottom of the slab to seal it up on the bottom as well.
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx i tried using total boat deep pour epoxy and it never fully cured.
Very beautiful !! Well done! You make it look easy!!
I would like to use this epoxy on canvas artwork. Do you think that can be used for art?
It has no UV protection in it.
Thank you! it will work on canvas or just about anything else as well. This resin has no UV properties in it, but the MAS Maker Poxy sure does! Look it up on their website 👍
KnottHead Custom Sawing & FabWorx Thank you for your answer!
Much appreciated.
Can. You add color to table top
You mention scotch brite scuff pads. Can you tell me which ones or provide the link.. Thanks
Hi Barb, I have added the Amazon link to the scotch brite scuff pads into the description of the video! Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions 👍
Second question, how does summertime temps above 90 and 100 degrees affect the cure time?
Summer time temps drasticallly increase the rate of cure! Gotta be careful as the temps go up as curing can happen very quickly
Fantastic job, I’ll be looking foreword to its arrival at my door.
You did get my correct address ... didn’t you?
LOL! Ohh ya, it's in the snail mail for ya... It will prolly take a while to get there lol... Thanks for the Fantastic vote!!!
Can u use this on wood canvas one coat to save your painting
Hi Carmen, Yes I would imagine that you could, altho it would make your painting super shiny as it does leave a very glossy finish... I have never tried doing this to a painting like this but I'm sure it would work... Doing a test piece to see how it turns out would be my recommendation prior to doing it on a big painting you wanted to do it on, just to see how it turns out 👍
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx ok I’ll will amd send u what look like for sure amd thank u taking time shout out to me ! I did a big pour painting this should be fun ! All those high gloss spray don’t give me shine I wasn’t ! Thinking of birding that back of a canvas ti make it stronger ! While giving one layer by lager brush strokes and that remove birds in back see or leav them in ! Thought could it crack ! I want the wet look ! Thanks I’ll email u photo one day
I love how u explain it all so I night night jug !
How does the epoxy stand up to hot cups and dishes I wonder ?
Never had any issues with hot cups and plates... as for hotter things such as pans, I wouldn't set them right on top of any epoxy resin without some sort of trivet or hot pad down, it's just too risky... But for normal things like a hot cup of coffee we have never had not one issue with them causing harm to this resin... It is heat resistant, not heat proof lol...
If I want a semi gloss finish, would I have to let it cure, sand it and recoat with a semi gloss poly or varnish? If so, how long is the cure time for the epoxy?
Yes! That is what we do if we want a different sheen on finished products! We usually wait at least 7-10 days before spraying something over the top of this resin to make sure it.s completely cured.
I tried Arm-r-seal varnish on a live edge table top and was not happy with how it laid out. I am happy with the edges. I plan on sanding the varnish off the top but the edges would be difficult to sand. Will MAS table top epoxy resin adhere to the varnish if some epoxy flows over the edge? Thanks
Hi George, MAS epoxies should adhere to just about any finish ones that finish had cured, it will however need to be scuffed up to give the resin something to grab onto, just scuff it well with some 180-220 grit sandpaper or even a nyalox abrasive brush wheel and you should be fine and not have adhesion problems as long as the varnish was cured 👍🏼
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx Thank you very much!
George Rodgers You are very welcome! Let me know if you have any more questions and how it turns out! 😁
How is the heat resistance of this epoxy? Will a hot coffee mug leave indentations?
This resin is heat resistant and has done just fine for us as far as hot coffee mug's go, but it is not heat proof and can be damaged from really hot things such as pans and we always advise and try to educate our clients that resin's are plastic's and can can be damaged from very hot items being placed on them. We always try to advise that coasters and trivets are a good thing for any custom pieces we do regardless of whether there are resins or not... The better you take care of your piece the longer it will stay looking nice and hold up.
One of the nice things about resin finishes is that if some damage has occurred at some point, unless very severe, in a lot of case's a quick sanding and polishing can often restore it to it's original smoothness and shine, in severe case's, another flood coat can easily be applied to freshen it up!
Any more questions, feel free to let me know, I'm always happy to help if I can! 👍
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx so no rings after a hot cup of coffee sitting on it?
Can Lacquer thinner be added to thin the epoxy resin for a clearer final coat?
That is not something I would recommend! The resin should be crystal clear as a final coat, provided you take the time to get all the bubbles out of it... you have to mix it kind of slowly, if you mix it with a high speed setting on a drill you will whip much more air bubble into the resin that you will have to spend time getting out. for the most part the air bubbles should come up to the top and pop out pretty easily with a torch, resulting in a crystal clear finish coat! Mixing in Lacquer thinner I think will be a recipe for more air to get trapped in the resin as the solvent flashes off and tries to get out of the resin...
Thanks!
If you use 4 oz per square foot for the flood coat, how many oz per foot for the seal coats?
When we do seal coats we use approx 3/4 to 1oz per sqft, put it on, squeegee it around and then squeegee most of it off, multiple coats until it is all sealed up well so there is no way for air bubbles to get trapped in it... it's all about getting it sealed up well in prep for a flawless flood coat to go down... The better you have it sealed up the better your flood coat will go on! 👍
KnottHead Custom Sawing & FabWorx
Thank you for the help, do you sand the bubbles out of the seal coats? Or just scuff up and put another layer over?
And you don’t torch the bubbles out of the seat coats?
Michael Knight We squeegee most of the resin off and over the edges for the seal coats, the goal with seal coats os not to leave a heavy coating, but to fill the poors and seal it up, we squeegee it so thin that there really arent problems with bubbles during seal coats, but if the is an area with bubbles, yes, you can torch them out 👍🏼
Michael Knight for the most part our seal coats do not get too many bubbles in them, when squeegee’ing the reain thin, the bubbles pop while running the squeegee over it all... and its not a thick layer, if you leave it really thick as a seal coat there will be lots of bubble issues, and increase the need to torch it or use a heat gun to remove them...
hello amazing !!!! the question of mine how much is the amount? epoxy and hardening
Thanks... All resins are different, this particular MAS resin is 2:1 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener. Hope that helps!
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx So for this size project how much do we need to order 1 gallon total?
Can I use MAS Epoxy Table Top for making coasters? With molds?
I wouldn't use it to make coasters in molds, there are better options like the MAS Flag or LV resins... The Table Top Pro resin can be used for a topcoat on the coasters, but I think if you try to pour it in the molds you would probably have a hard time getting all the bubbles out of it as it cures... But it is something that I have not tried
How many hours of cure time is there between coats and after last coat?
Cure time varies based on ambient conditions... Most of the time we let seal coats cure overnight, then do a scuff sand for a good mechanical bond, clean the sanding dust off and do another seal coat, repeat as many times as needed until its all sealed up, then scuff sand, clean and pour the final flood coat. More often than not we just do one coat a day, however you can do multiple coats without sanding between and get a good chemical bond, but you have to get the timing just right, it would need to still be tacky but not so soft that the resin will move around on the surface. Like I said cure times vary but I would say that if you didn't want to wait for it to cure and scuff sand it, you could probably do another coat in say 4 to 6 hours provided it was cured enough to do so... If you can touch it with a finger and it leaves a mark but nothing comes off onto your finger you should be able to pour another layer... In the summer time when the temps are high the cure will go much faster so you do have to be careful when using resins so they do not get away from you... as far as cure on the final flood pour, we usually wait a few days before we flip them over to seal the bottoms to make sure the resin will not take impressions from being flipped onto the resin surface... The longer you wait the better... The resin will continue curing for a couple weeks to get to full hardness... Hope this helps and let me know of you have any more questions! 👍
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx yes ty, I am about to do a pour on 200 year old reclaimed wood that we made into a coffee table. Also, the 220 grit paper and the stuff pads, I went to home depot and apparently there's different kinds. 220 grit had medium to fine, and there's a few stuff pads that contain more steel wool... does it matter? I went with "final stripping" scuff pads..
@@candicetisdale2197 We just use regular 220 sand paper for scuffing between coats. Typically we put on a thin seal coat, let it cure overnight, scuff with the sandpaper and clean it off real good and repeat until its all sealed up and there are no spots that might let air bubbles into the flood coat... sometimes it takes only a couple coats but sometimes it take 4 or 5 seal coats... the better you have it sealed up the easier your flood coat will go... as far as the steal wool goes, you can probably use that with no ill effects but we don't, we just use regular 220 grit sandpaper... Be careful with steel wool on things you plan to finish with a water based finish as it can leave rust marks and stains... Resin is not water based so it shouldn't be an issue, but like I said we just use regular sandpaper for scuffing if we do use a padded sandpaper its is just a 👍soft foam with abrasives on it... Good luck on your project, let me know how it goes for you! And like always, let me know if you have any more questions
i have a table with contact paper can i use epoxy over it
Yes, but keep in mind the bond will only be as good as the bond of the contact paper because the resin will be bonding with the contact paper instead of the table... If the contact paper fails the resin will fail also
I poured this epoxy after using Rubio monocrat and scuffing it down to 120. Then I poured it. Mixed by hand. Slowly... SOOOOO MANY bubbles. I think it ruined the beautiful finish. Can I fix it by sanding?
Most likely it needed to be sealed with thin seal coats of resin before hitting it with a flood coat... unfortunately you will probably have to remove the resin to start fresh with seal coats and then a flood coat
What do you recommend for exterior table tops? Under cover but still somewhat open to sun and moisture
No resins... There is way too much expansion and contraction for the resins to handle, as well as not any or enough UV inhibitors for it to last... Resins will yellow, start cracking and eventually start falling off of the wood... The more sun and rain it sees the quicker it will happen... I would use some really good spar varnish or an oil based sealer (even better!) such as Messmers... if you go into my Amazon shop you will see the messmers in there, its really good stuff for outdoor projects and it has UV inhibitors in it that will keep your table looking like say one... Recoat it once in a while and it will stay looking really good! Its super easy to use as well! 👍🏼 Let me know if you have any more questions!
Can you mix with acrylic paint
yes you sure can... Acrlic paint, stone industry liquid pigment and powder pigments are the way we usually tint resins
Will tabletops warp if epoxy is applied to one side only?
Yes, they absolutely can warp if not sealed on the bottom, any time you have a piece of real wood sealed on the top, you really should seal the bottom as well... We do not seal the bottom of table tops with resin tho, we usually use poly, conversion varnish or something else to seal the bottom with instead of the resin we use on the top side... Let me know if you have any more questions! 👍
@@KnottHeadCustomSawingFabWorx Thats what I needed to hear from someone.I got a table made from maple wood slats ,Some one painted it long ago and used it outside.When i found it it had an engine block setting right in the middle of it for how long ? i dont know.Anyways I picked it up for free and the bow was about 2 inches near center of table ..I was gonna use for a work bench until i turned it up side down to fix one of the legs .I wound up ripping 3 inches from center about 1/8th of inch deep crosss and longwise completely over the bottom.Then i sprayed some water from a bottle and dampened it on the cupped side and hit it with a heat gun .I never seen a piece of wood so hard .It started cracking when it cooled down in a few spots ,not bad but it sure sounded like a firecracker when it would pop.That day it straitened out beyond my expectations .thanks for the info on epoxy .Ill use some old krylon white spray paint and coat the bottom really good then prime the top with laquer and let it sit for a couple days before I throw the epoxy to it.
Very nice beautiful do you guys have a class to take would even be interested in a private class
We do some classes from time to time here locally if you are in our area 👍
What state are you in
@ Sunny California! If you are kind of local to us we'd be happy to show you the in's and out's with the resins we use!
Its the worst resin i ever used. No working time at all . It statred getting hot while mixing and cured Instantly..
You do need to work quickly and not mix a giant batch all in one container... Resin mixing and curing is affected by volume, the more mass there is the quicker it is going to kick off, the key to mixing a lot at one time is to mix it in separate containers and then get it on the surface and start spreading the mass, once you start spreading the mass out the curing process doesn't have a chance to speed up so much from it all being contained in a large mass! The bigger the mass, the quicker it will kick off!
How you are not wearing a mask