Jeff, wanted to give you a big shout out 5 years in the making, you deciding to record your work this day back then helped my family save almost $3,000 in 2023. I made the mistake of not following you to a T on the breakdown, but made sure to follow the rebuild closely. I had never removed a steering column/shaft before, and instead of trying, I spent about 5 hours trying to work around it.. didn't turn out the way I thought! Once I got to the evaporator case and removed the core, it was obvious this thing was shot. The hardest part of this job for me was getting the expansion valve hooked up from the outside firewall. Job in total took me 20 hours, working after my second job from midnight to about 4 AM every night for a week straight. Once the leak was fixed, I had a hell of a time diagnosing the compressor still not turning on when vacuumed and recharged - it turned out the problem was at the A/C Pressure Switch. After replacing, I still had an issue.. dug deeper.. both the wires to Switch and A/C Coil were melted on the inside, telling me a short somewhere? Who knows.. i cut those and replaced, we have A/C now.. thanks again Jeff, you did me a huge solid here!!
I finally finished replacing the front evaporator & heater core on my 2008 Enclave CXL. Everything went very well & car is back in service with cold air! It took 20 hours total (working in evenings) after work. Special thanks to this time-lapse video & other posters! Here's a list of my experiences, tips, suggestions: 1) I used large zip lock bags (to hold screws) for each stage & labeled with a description & Step One, Two, Three, etc 2) I removed two 10A airbag fuses, one at engine & other under glove compartment, & disconnected battery 3) When removing the seats, you unplug the main connector but have to cut the two wires for the airbag. I re-soldered & resealed with rubber tape & zip-tied 4) GM recommends you blow out the AC box after taking out the old evaporator. (my evaporator was caked with dust & had big sections of green dye toward bottom. 5) My heater core had two spots that looked like potential leaks so I replaced (I reused the aluminum tubes) 6) On the steering wheel, I just used a 1/4" ratchet w/metric 10 socket to remove the shaft bolt under dash. (I did not have to rotate the steering wheel) Also be sure to reinsert the two white nylon washers between the frame & column/bolts. 7) I replaced all heater hoses & plastic tees & quick-connects. 8) It helps to have a flexible nut-driver shaft to remove the screws close to windshield 9) During reassembly I started with the zip-lock bags that had the highest Step # and ended with the first bag. (that definitely helped to know what to do next) 10) Take a lot of pictures before & after you remove parts! (being able to go back & see where everything was "before" made it easy to reassemble correctly "after"! Thanks again & good luck.
Hey Jerry, great tips. I recently had to replace the heater core on my equinox and these tips would have helped. I ended up with a couple extra screws. oops.
@@remib.9392 Remi, not sure how many steps I took, but as I disassembled everything, I used 12 zip lock bags. On the positive side, there were only two or three different screw sizes for the whole project. Large bolts hold the framing together, but almost all of the other screws are the same torx size.
Great Video! I've already replaced the rear Evaporator without issue. Couple of questions on front evaporator: 1) Service manual says to Disable the SIR. How? 2) Should I replace the compressor & other front lines/parts too? 3) How do you keep track of all the screws/parts & where they go?
This explains clearly why it is taking almost 4 days to get my vehicle back from the dealership. I can't imagine having the patience do something like this, let alone not having the talent to do it.
The worst part I can see is what they didn't show you. At some point, someone is going to be pulling the steering column back out or at least pulling the steering wheel off and turning it back around. He put the Steering column in with the wheel facing down. It was facing up when he took it off. Looks like he put it back in 180 degrees out.
This is a great video. I replaced my evaporator this weekend. Had a few minor set backs along the way but all in all it went well. BUT...the Enclave will not start now. All wheel drive turned off keeps flashing on the display. I have 11.6 volts at the battery, checked all the fuses, tried with a jumper pack. I'm pretty sure I have all the harness connectors properly secured. Every time I try to scroll through the settings and info it flashes right back to All wheel drive off. Every once in a while it flashes features available in park. I tried to connect with a Snap-on scanner but it says that there is no power at the connector. I checked the main power wire and I have 11.6 volts. Did I really screw something up? Do you have any ideas of what I should try next? I did not disconnect the battery while doing the repair, would that have cleared the ecm flash file? From what I could find it sounds like my trans ecm is locked out.
Avery, sorry to hear the car won't start. Have you got it fixed/figured it out? Have you tried disconnecting the battery cable to reset the system? Did you disable the SIR before you started? By the way: Do you have any tips for a first-timer on doing this job? How did you keep track of all the screws/parts & where they go?
@@jerryalex8044 I did get the car working. I found one of the pins in the ecm connector under the steering wheel was bent. Took about 13 hours of troubleshooting to find it though. I am not sure of what kind of experience you have but this is not an easy job. I am experienced diesel technician and it took me 15 hours. I did have a few minor set backs along the way. (Working alone and having to replace the water lines.) To keep your job organized you should bag and label all of your fasteners for every part you remove. You should also lay all of your removed parts in order so you can put them back in the correct order. Good luck buddy.
@@tuktuu1136 Avery, glad you got it working! 1) can you expand a bit on removing/installing the steering wheel. This video shows it being rotated 180, but the manual doesn't even mention this (that I can find?) ps: I have a good deal of auto experience and not afraid of the time. I'll be using the downloaded service manuals plus this time-lapse video as guides. Regarding SIR disabling, I found my answer at this site: workshop-manuals.com/buick/enclave_awd/v6-3.6l/maintenance/air_bag(s)_arming_and_disarming/system_information/service_and_repair/ (basically I just remove the two fuses & wait 1 minute)
Hi fellow Mechanic here. I have been watching you're video step by step. As I am doing a 2010 GMC Acadia Front evap As well. I am pretty much done but I ran into one issue. At the cluster there is the 1 main plug. For the Cluster. Next to that is a $ wire plug. Blue, Green, Grey, black plug. I have no idea where it goes. I am aware that this video is a buick. And some stuff is slightly Different... Any idea what I am talking about or maybe know the plug I am talking about?
Just one connector? If you have not figured it out I can do a little looking tomorrow sence it has been a little while sence I have done one. Sorry I did not respond earlier.
Couple of tips when doing this job. Turn to hvac to full hot before removing. When disconnecting passenger side air bag . Do not unplug directly at air bag.
Dropped off my 2010 enclave to get the evaporator replaced and the thing I’m worried about the most is getting my car back with dash noises, creaks, raddles, or broken plastic pins. I have a little bit of OCD so the idea of the dash being completely dismantled bothers me, but it has to be done. I’d DIY the project but I have no time since I’m a doctor. UPDATE: Got the car back with minor scratches were they pried to remove clipped-on panels but everything was very tightly put back together so there’s no creaking or shaking when I drive.
@@rebekahmckay6371 Cost me close to $600 (including parts and labor at a small local shop in town). Where I live the heat is waaaay too strong to not have ac during traffic, so it’s 100% worth the price just because of that. Blowing cooler than ever.
Thankfully GM built in easy assembly & sound deadening screws & fasteners. I have zero noises after reassembly. $600 is definitely worth it. PS: they should have used plastic pry tools.
Saw a clean looking 2011 GMC Acadia for sale I was thinking of buying the issues it had was Evaporator, Oil leak, and power steering leak. I wasnt to worried about the power steering or even the oil leak. Now when I saw this video I said hell no (lol)!!! He got quoted $3000 for the issues. To much trouble and he probably got quoted a neighborhood mechanic because it looks like a hard ass job to do to trust it to just anybody not really qualified .
@@drjudsjr I bought a snap-on for jobs just like this and it makes work a breeze. If I didn't have snap-on truck by me every week I would def get the Milwaukee.
That's gonna suck when he has to take all that apart again because he put the steering wheel in upside down... Hope I never have to change my evaporator
It was put on that way because the steering column bolt is twards the firewall and cannot be removed unless you turn the steering wheel 180 degrees. It is also keyed so you cannot put it in any position other than straight. Done a few dozzon of these. All is good 👍
A mechanic just changed my condensor, compressor, hoses and expansion valve and now there is a restriction he can't find. He said he blew out lines but no success. I gotta find restriction but is this same way to remove a 14 encore evaporator? is expansion valve at cover by fuel pedal and can it be changed without doing all this? & do you have a hint why system has a restriction? Mechanic apologized and said he had too much time in it, he done. Maybe expansion valve on wrong???
Being a dealer tech, f there was a mechanical compressor failure(debris in the lines) general motors recomends replacing the entire system at the same time due to not being able co clean out all ofthe debris (i found out the hard way, did the same thing you said your mechanic did. ). The expansion valve is at the firewall and can be replaced by disconnecting lines and removing 2 torx screws after recovering the refrigerant. the thing is the debris could possibly have recirculated in the system. In that case everything would need replaced again allong with what hasnt been replaced yet. Unfortunately the only way to get to the evaporator is by completely removing the dashboard assembly steerinc column seats ect.
I have done probably 100 of these. If I'm in a go-getter mode I can do a front evap in under 5 hrs. In the same mode I can complete a "Trifecta" in 1 complete day. That's front, rear, and the discharge hose. I'll admit though, It isn't all that common for me to be in that type of mood lol
Jeff, wanted to give you a big shout out 5 years in the making, you deciding to record your work this day back then helped my family save almost $3,000 in 2023. I made the mistake of not following you to a T on the breakdown, but made sure to follow the rebuild closely. I had never removed a steering column/shaft before, and instead of trying, I spent about 5 hours trying to work around it.. didn't turn out the way I thought! Once I got to the evaporator case and removed the core, it was obvious this thing was shot. The hardest part of this job for me was getting the expansion valve hooked up from the outside firewall. Job in total took me 20 hours, working after my second job from midnight to about 4 AM every night for a week straight. Once the leak was fixed, I had a hell of a time diagnosing the compressor still not turning on when vacuumed and recharged - it turned out the problem was at the A/C Pressure Switch. After replacing, I still had an issue.. dug deeper.. both the wires to Switch and A/C Coil were melted on the inside, telling me a short somewhere? Who knows.. i cut those and replaced, we have A/C now.. thanks again Jeff, you did me a huge solid here!!
I would like to see the engineers who designed these ac evaps do this job and get paid just as the mechanic would.
I finally finished replacing the front evaporator & heater core on my 2008 Enclave CXL. Everything went very well & car is back in service with cold air! It took 20 hours total (working in evenings) after work. Special thanks to this time-lapse video & other posters! Here's a list of my experiences, tips, suggestions: 1) I used large zip lock bags (to hold screws) for each stage & labeled with a description & Step One, Two, Three, etc 2) I removed two 10A airbag fuses, one at engine & other under glove compartment, & disconnected battery 3) When removing the seats, you unplug the main connector but have to cut the two wires for the airbag. I re-soldered & resealed with rubber tape & zip-tied 4) GM recommends you blow out the AC box after taking out the old evaporator. (my evaporator was caked with dust & had big sections of green dye toward bottom. 5) My heater core had two spots that looked like potential leaks so I replaced (I reused the aluminum tubes) 6) On the steering wheel, I just used a 1/4" ratchet w/metric 10 socket to remove the shaft bolt under dash. (I did not have to rotate the steering wheel) Also be sure to reinsert the two white nylon washers between the frame & column/bolts. 7) I replaced all heater hoses & plastic tees & quick-connects. 8) It helps to have a flexible nut-driver shaft to remove the screws close to windshield 9) During reassembly I started with the zip-lock bags that had the highest Step # and ended with the first bag. (that definitely helped to know what to do next) 10) Take a lot of pictures before & after you remove parts! (being able to go back & see where everything was "before" made it easy to reassemble correctly "after"! Thanks again & good luck.
Hey Jerry, great tips. I recently had to replace the heater core on my equinox and these tips would have helped. I ended up with a couple extra screws. oops.
How many steps did you have in total if you recall?
@@remib.9392 Remi, not sure how many steps I took, but as I disassembled everything, I used 12 zip lock bags. On the positive side, there were only two or three different screw sizes for the whole project. Large bolts hold the framing together, but almost all of the other screws are the same torx size.
Great Video! I've already replaced the rear Evaporator without issue. Couple of questions on front evaporator: 1) Service manual says to Disable the SIR. How? 2) Should I replace the compressor & other front lines/parts too? 3) How do you keep track of all the screws/parts & where they go?
This explains clearly why it is taking almost 4 days to get my vehicle back from the dealership. I can't imagine having the patience do something like this, let alone not having the talent to do it.
i can assure you,its not fun
The worst part I can see is what they didn't show you. At some point, someone is going to be pulling the steering column back out or at least pulling the steering wheel off and turning it back around. He put the Steering column in with the wheel facing down. It was facing up when he took it off. Looks like he put it back in 180 degrees out.
@@TeamCuellar Watch it again at 1:45. The wheel is upside down. My guess is that is where it needs to be to take the bolts out from the bottom.
@@FTWarr YEP!!! I didn't notice that. In frame 137 or 138, he turns it around before he starts unbolting the column.
This is a great video. I replaced my evaporator this weekend. Had a few minor set backs along the way but all in all it went well. BUT...the Enclave will not start now. All wheel drive turned off keeps flashing on the display. I have 11.6 volts at the battery, checked all the fuses, tried with a jumper pack. I'm pretty sure I have all the harness connectors properly secured. Every time I try to scroll through the settings and info it flashes right back to All wheel drive off. Every once in a while it flashes features available in park. I tried to connect with a Snap-on scanner but it says that there is no power at the connector. I checked the main power wire and I have 11.6 volts. Did I really screw something up? Do you have any ideas of what I should try next? I did not disconnect the battery while doing the repair, would that have cleared the ecm flash file? From what I could find it sounds like my trans ecm is locked out.
Avery, sorry to hear the car won't start. Have you got it fixed/figured it out? Have you tried disconnecting the battery cable to reset the system? Did you disable the SIR before you started? By the way: Do you have any tips for a first-timer on doing this job? How did you keep track of all the screws/parts & where they go?
@@jerryalex8044 I did get the car working. I found one of the pins in the ecm connector under the steering wheel was bent. Took about 13 hours of troubleshooting to find it though. I am not sure of what kind of experience you have but this is not an easy job. I am experienced diesel technician and it took me 15 hours. I did have a few minor set backs along the way. (Working alone and having to replace the water lines.) To keep your job organized you should bag and label all of your fasteners for every part you remove. You should also lay all of your removed parts in order so you can put them back in the correct order. Good luck buddy.
@@tuktuu1136 Avery, glad you got it working! 1) can you expand a bit on removing/installing the steering wheel. This video shows it being rotated 180, but the manual doesn't even mention this (that I can find?) ps: I have a good deal of auto experience and not afraid of the time. I'll be using the downloaded service manuals plus this time-lapse video as guides. Regarding SIR disabling, I found my answer at this site: workshop-manuals.com/buick/enclave_awd/v6-3.6l/maintenance/air_bag(s)_arming_and_disarming/system_information/service_and_repair/ (basically I just remove the two fuses & wait 1 minute)
@@jerryalex8044 the steering wheel is connected to a shaft with a coupler and an allen bolt. The wheel is turned to gain access to the bolt.
Hi fellow Mechanic here. I have been watching you're video step by step. As I am doing a 2010 GMC Acadia Front evap As well. I am pretty much done but I ran into one issue. At the cluster there is the 1 main plug. For the Cluster. Next to that is a $ wire plug. Blue, Green, Grey, black plug. I have no idea where it goes. I am aware that this video is a buick. And some stuff is slightly Different... Any idea what I am talking about or maybe know the plug I am talking about?
Just one connector? If you have not figured it out I can do a little looking tomorrow sence it has been a little while sence I have done one. Sorry I did not respond earlier.
How to define if the one failing is the front or the rear evaporator?
Couple of tips when doing this job. Turn to hvac to full hot before removing. When disconnecting passenger side air bag . Do not unplug directly at air bag.
I'm am about to do this can you explain me again
Holy shit... this fella has skills.
Amen to that.
Oh heck no, I need the next appointment
Dropped off my 2010 enclave to get the evaporator replaced and the thing I’m worried about the most is getting my car back with dash noises, creaks, raddles, or broken plastic pins.
I have a little bit of OCD so the idea of the dash being completely dismantled bothers me, but it has to be done. I’d DIY the project but I have no time since I’m a doctor.
UPDATE: Got the car back with minor scratches were they pried to remove clipped-on panels but everything was very tightly put back together so there’s no creaking or shaking when I drive.
How much did it cost? I have a 2010 with 180k miles. Not sure if it is worth it.
@@rebekahmckay6371 Cost me close to $600 (including parts and labor at a small local shop in town). Where I live the heat is waaaay too strong to not have ac during traffic, so it’s 100% worth the price just because of that. Blowing cooler than ever.
Truly that is worth the price. I live in Florida. Hot hot hot here. If I could get it done for that I will keep it. Surely!
Thankfully GM built in easy assembly & sound deadening screws & fasteners. I have zero noises after reassembly. $600 is definitely worth it. PS: they should have used plastic pry tools.
Did you have to fully evacuate and recharge the ac system after this too?
Remi, yes the AC has to be evacuated & recharged.
Saw a clean looking 2011 GMC Acadia for sale I was thinking of buying the issues it had was Evaporator, Oil leak, and power steering leak. I wasnt to worried about the power steering or even the oil leak. Now when I saw this video I said hell no (lol)!!! He got quoted $3000 for the issues. To much trouble and he probably got quoted a neighborhood mechanic because it looks like a hard ass job to do to trust it to just anybody not really qualified .
What's the cost
If this ain't a crock of Sh##. Ridiculous. Won't ever be buying another one.
Key word my friend: Power Tools.
He is using power tools. Battery-powered tool.
@@sosscarz milwaukee 12v.. makes me want to buy a set...
@@drjudsjr I bought a snap-on for jobs just like this and it makes work a breeze. If I didn't have snap-on truck by me every week I would def get the Milwaukee.
Do you have to reprogram the car after doing all this?
??
No. Just recharge the AC and fill the coolant
Great video, Could have been slowed down and explained, when removing key components, such as passenger side air bag
The video probably would be 10 hours long
That's gonna suck when he has to take all that apart again because he put the steering wheel in upside down... Hope I never have to change my evaporator
It was put on that way because the steering column bolt is twards the firewall and cannot be removed unless you turn the steering wheel 180 degrees. It is also keyed so you cannot put it in any position other than straight. Done a few dozzon of these. All is good 👍
@@kawidart_jeff294 I did the same. Have to access the bolt for the steering wheel. It is the only way. Yes it look upside down. But it is not
Can you please send me this video regular speed I am having trouble with my ac leaking everywhere!
I have same problem on my 2012 enclave when a/c is on I smell freon from the vent
If you smell Freon out vents most likely evaporator.
A mechanic just changed my condensor, compressor, hoses and expansion valve and now there is a restriction he can't find. He said he blew out lines but no success. I gotta find restriction but is this same way to remove a 14 encore evaporator? is expansion valve at cover by fuel pedal and can it be changed without doing all this? & do you have a hint why system has a restriction? Mechanic apologized and said he had too much time in it, he done. Maybe expansion valve on wrong???
Being a dealer tech, f there was a mechanical compressor failure(debris in the lines) general motors recomends replacing the entire system at the same time due to not being able co clean out all ofthe debris (i found out the hard way, did the same thing you said your mechanic did. ). The expansion valve is at the firewall and can be replaced by disconnecting lines and removing 2 torx screws after recovering the refrigerant. the thing is the debris could possibly have recirculated in the system. In that case everything would need replaced again allong with what hasnt been replaced yet. Unfortunately the only way to get to the evaporator is by completely removing the dashboard assembly steerinc column seats ect.
How much does a job like this cost? Hours involved total?
For the enclave traverse and acadia about 13 hours
All I can say is...HOLY CRAP!!!!
General Motors should buy this whole line of vehicles back. Shit bumper to bumper
2011 Enclave for sale runs great but has a AC issue 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️ $4500
No kidding
Ended up being a compressor #Whew
having trouble with steering wheel..
Steering was put back upside down ...other than that great job.
was put on that direction due to flat spots on steering intermediate shaft.
so it was lined up. but thank you!!
Great job. Please post the real time to do this.
Aproximately 14 hours, but after doing a number of them it can be completed faster
I have done probably 100 of these. If I'm in a go-getter mode I can do a front evap in under 5 hrs. In the same mode I can complete a "Trifecta" in 1 complete day. That's front, rear, and the discharge hose. I'll admit though, It isn't all that common for me to be in that type of mood lol
@@chicanobluesaz4191 >
Isn’t it cheaper just to throw away the car? Good grief.
How about posting this in actual time my old eyes can't keep up
It would take 20 hrs
La peor estupidez de los diseñadores podrían dividir el tablero o tener acceso por el cota fuego