After doing much research I ordered my Bosh CM10GD before finding your review. Yours is Hands down the best review I've seen so far. I learned things from your video I didn't know the saw did from other reviews. I'm now more confident in my purchase and looking forward to trying it out once it arrives.
I bought this saw quite recently (about a week ago) and I simply love it. My older saw, though it served me well, was somewhat limited and I grew tired of flipping boards, and limited wide cuts. The video explained to me in detail, the finer poin ts of this saw. Its an execellent product, but Damn, it is heavy! Then again, you can't have it both ways.
I love Bosch products. They have never let me down. As far as Lasers go, Lasers are a joke. I'd much prefer the shadow line that are on some other miter saws like the DeWalt. As a sign fabricator, working in a shop environment for over 15 years, Lasers are the first thing to go. However, everyone works differently and mileage may vary of course.
I have this saw for 4 years now, great saw,,, drawbacks, the blade guard developed a haze , and sawdust residue , that clouds view of cutting line, I actually have to apply a spring clamp to hold the blade guard up, so I have line of sight on cut, you’ll hear this from anyone who’s owned this very good saw, for a period of time
Mount a nut onto the hold downs knob. Keep a battery drill with the right bit near the saw and use the drill to apply and release the hold down rapidly. I know it's not ideal but it is a work around.
I've been a contractor since 1988. Need a new power mitre-saw and I've seen used/them all. Been thinking of this saw for months. Glad I viewed your take on it and although it looks like a nice saw, the slow start Makita is prolly where I'll end up just for the weight factor. Thank you
Tips. Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that). .
Thanks for the detailed analysis. I am in the market for a replacement for an outdated saw and this looks like the winner. Based on price I think I will buy the 12" unit.
Andy, you hit every single positive and negative note I also have dead on the nose. I've never used a miter saw before but bought a brand new Bosch in Aug of 2020 and fell in love with it right away, with a couple small concerns. I don't like the amount of wrist-twisting I have to do on the hold-down clamp, but not much I can do there. Having to eyeball all my cuts seemed stupid especially since I could have bought another miter saw for half the price that included a floodlight and laser. I solved that problem by adding a small laser mounted to the little black bracket at the back of the blade which holds onto the shroud. It's wired up to a battery pack and trigger switch I mounted directly inside of the handle for easy access and a clean look.
Finally the review I was searching for! I’m picking up mine tomorrow. As for the laser dilemma, I have decided that, over the Festool, aside from the the obvious financial gain, the Bosch is far superior than the prior for a goooood reason : the handle! On the KPX, you somehow have to contort your wrist like if you were pouring water on a plant on a high shelf, while pressing the safety with your thumb. It is plainly stupid. Also, the Bosch buttery glidness is superior, hands down.
It's all in the effort to remain "impartial" so everyone can pretend they're in the group consensus. It's kind of like those Bigfoot shows on Discovery channel. The show never actually delivers, and you always know how the end
When the day comes I need to replace or upgrade my 12" ridgid slider I hope I can get one of these. I'm also suprised it doesn't have a laser, I don't pay attention to mine alot but with that said it is nice to draw a line on a board to an unknown angle and just align the laser to it.
you like the DC? I can't believe it. Mine covers the whole shop with sawdust. Three hinges. I can't stand the hold down it is clumsy and crude. I got the 12" and put a Ridge carbide mitre blade in it. It's a beast.
Only laser I need is the one on my pistol. The zero clearance slide is a seller for me. Will allow me to save space in my garage shop. As for the hold down issue..... if your using it for woodworking in a shop, build your own table and fence. You’ll get more control that way.
@@graphguy He is referring to the bevel being set, and left at 90 degrees. Most people do exactly that. He's right about that being the absolute best way to line up a cut.
Construction in my opinion. Too much play in the miter when it’s pulled out. Lifting that bevel handle is a real workout as well you have to have it mounted to a heavy bench or you’re prying open with both hands. I’m used to my 12” dewalt and this has been rough getting used to in the shop...
Just bought this saw. So far I like it. Mine was not accurate out of the box, it required some adjustment to the detent plate to get it 90deg. Hopefully it stays accurate, heard some rumblings about it coming out of 90 after some use. I can't see this being an issue for me since it's a dedicated shop saw, we shall see!
I have a Diablo blade installed (Diablo is Freud). I upgrade the blades on all new tools since included blades in my experience are always junk. I don't cut a lot of really thick stuff so I cannot speak to the issue you are referring to. I have had to flip some pieces to get total width, but it was still safer and more accurate then using the table saw in that case. .
Make a cut and line up the cut line...is it absolutely flawless? or are there kerfs in the cut line? I can't make a perfect cut no matter how hard i try. THere is ALWAYS a kerf in the cut when i line them up. 10" saw is junk. Haven't tried the 12"
I want to buy the 12" but I'm concerned about the size. I wanna be able to transport it on the back of my silverado and be able to close the bed cover. Would you help me out and tell me if it would clear 20"? I don't think it does but if I put it on an angle sideways maybe? Hope you can help. Thanks!
How would you compare this saw to the Rigid R4241 (Same as the Delta glider)? Does it have an LED light/blade-shadow? How much lateral deflection is there at full slide extension?
Great video! I just bought this saw, in part thanks to your awesome review. I just assembled it and found that the bevel lock lever at the front left is loose and rattles. Is that normal? Thanks for your help.
Bought this for my friend for his birthday, and he loves it. Father-in-law was a little jealous, even. :) Built solid, but light enough to move around for projects. Easy to use ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and makes great precision cuts. Doesn't come with a laser mount, but the fence is straight as an arrow and if you measure carefully, it's not a problem. Can handle dimensional lumber with ease, but of course, there's a limit to how thick. Handled a 4x4" post without a problem, but 4x6" we had to flip and cut twice. Only thing we've noticed is make sure to tighten the nut that holds the saw blade when you take it out of the box and maybe check up on it occasionally. For some, this is probably a no-brainer, but we neglected to do this and a few months in, found the motor running but the blade spinning at about half speed or less. Tightened the nut, and problem was solved. Very happy with this purchase. Dewalt makes sturdy stuff.
I don't know of a single finish guy around me that uses a laser for precise work. I use the one on my kapex quite a bit for quick cuts though. They are still only reliably accurate to around a 16th. For more precision I'll use the laser to cut about an 8th forward of my mark and then work it in. I can reliably cut a line from a .5 mechanical pencil lead in half like that. With a laser, or even bringing the blade down on your mark that's near impossible to do consistently. I've found them much more helpful for making quick cuts when framing. Also the euro version of this saw has pretty much the same dual laser as the kapex if you're willing to go through the hassle of bringing one over.
DillysADV I'd like to see a review of Makita's latest 12", the LS1219L. Makita makes great stuff but I have heard bad things about their miter saws. The LS1219L has been available since March 2018 yet there aren't any reviews of it anywhere, not UA-cam or anywhere on the interwebs.
A miter saw this good and this expensive should have the built in light casting a shadow on the blade for that perfect alignment like almost every other manufacturer has done. It’s so disappointing that Bosch didn’t think to add that. 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
The trenching adjustment I could not set it shallow enough. When doing a kneebrace I could not get a stop at 1 inch . The bolt needs to be longer. Or do you take it out and put it in from the bottom
Hey Andy love your videos. I’m thinking of buying this saw but after watching a few videos there seems to be some problems with accuracy espically on long cuts. The mechanism seems complicated with a lot of joints that may wear and get loose after a lot of use. Your thoughts.
What is your position on 12" saws? I'm trying to understand the pros/cons with the DeWalt DWS779 on sale everywhere for $349, but it seems that when a 10" slides it becomes just as capable as a 12" with 10" precision. Thoughts?
@@WorkshopAddict I'm doing a little of everything. Flooring, 5-1/4" baseboards, window trim, and crown. Eventually I'll be moving onto the exterior where I'd like to build a deck, fence my backyard, and build my own shed. Lots of opinions out there claiming the 12" is not ideal for fine trim which has me leaning towards a 10" (even thought the DWS779 is a killer deal). That Bosch saw is mighty attractive too.. Thanks for replying!
Chris Parker I hear you there, definitely some sticker shock! Although it does have the functionality of a radial arm saw, So if space is limited it may be justifiable.
Good but looks to have more expenses than a slide compound mitre maintaining those glides seems a cost than a slide for accuracy they need to be serviced regularly.
Just bought Bosch 10” Glide. Having one problem that maybe you can help with. When I make a glide cut, 5” or wider board, I’m left with what I will call a “tooth mark, or curved groove” at the point where the cut ends on my side of the blade. I’ve checked and adjusted for square and tried a different blade. Still a problem.. 90 degree and miter cuts. Any suggestions? I would appreciate. Tom
Just a shot in the dark here. Start the saw and let it get up to full speed. When you pull the saw back (saw is on) cut just an 1/8 of an inch deep scribe line in the wood. This may help set the blade in its vertical axis and not deflect when put into the wood. Don’t lift the blade out of the wood after you pull it back. Push the blade down and then push through your cut. What may be happening is 1) the blade is not up to full speed when it engages the wood and is deflecting in some weird way or 2) when the blade is engaging the full thickness of the wood a little too quickly and deflects once it passes deeper into the wood leaving the rest of the cut different that than the start of the cut. If you notice in the video, this guy is taking two to three passes to get completely through the wood which is his attempt to avoid any blade deflection.
Workshopaddict Andy, I'm considering this saw in addition to the older Milwaukee 6955-20. if you have used the Milwaukee what do you think of the power and accuracy and would you use it for woodworming?
John Lane I have used both and I would prefer the Bosch over the Milwaukee in a wood shop situation. If you are on the go more, then I would go with the cordless Milwaukee
My only experience with a laser on a miter saw is my 12 year old Craftsman. It wasn't accurate out of the box and I didn't spend much time trying to correct it so I never used it. Just a case of not missing something you never had kind of thing.
I recently purchased the 12” Bosch. They did a design change with the safety release switch on the underneath of the handle instead of sides which I am not a fan of. I have a short thumb due to loosing some of it in a non wood working way lol. The model on display was the one I was expecting. The other issue is not having the laser guide which definitely helps speed up location of cut. Other than that I love this Saw.
the EURO version of the saw does have a laser. I was tempted to order the parts from a Bosch Euro supplier and install on my USA version. But in the end, I really don't need it. I don't use this saw for precise crosscuts. That's what the table saw sled is for
Indeed, the table saw is the queen of the wood shop. Help me to understand how the telescoping or articulating electric miter saw has an advantage over the electric radial arm saw and manual miter box. It seems all stationary saws fail when trying to cutting trapezoid boards for a sand blasting cabinet.
I have the 12" and it has a laser. Surprised on your comment regarding the dust extraction, every single review I've seen here, and prior to purchasing, the consensus was that the only issue is the dust extraction.
You have more options than just those two saws now. The Bosch 10" is just the 12" saw with a 10" blade and guard. So its larger than the 10" Makita. Does that help?
@@WorkshopAddict That does help. Can you let me know what other saws have fixed/forward rails (other than the Kapex)? I can barely turn around in my garage so the closer I can get something against the wall, the better.
I've had one of these for a year now and love it. But the biggest problem is not having an alignment laser or light. If anyone knows of a good aftermarket laser or led light that would work, please comment... Otherwise, great review of this tool....
Ron Smith You do not have to go aftermarket. Bosch makes washers that replace the standard ones on each side of the blade. When the arbor turns, they automatically turn on. The MSRP of them is $30 each.
I have the washer and it's fantastic. www.amazon.com/Bosch-LS010-Miter-Laser-Washer/dp/B004GH6YYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489092978&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+laser+washer
i have the 12". it's the european version, mine has a dual laser(both sides of blade) and works pretty good. you just have to know where it cuts compared to the line.
Has anyone removed the rotating table base from the saw? Yeah it became harder to rotate. The center bolt no longer fit back in but seems to be close, don't want to force it. No rust or anything, wonder if heating the aluminum center hole is part of the reinstallation procedure?
How good is the dust extraction on this saw? I’ve had a Bosch mitre saw for 15 years, still going as I’ve taken care of it but the dust extraction is non existent.
The trenching feature really caught my interest. I'm a finish carpenter and have to do that by hand a lot. The weight of this saw is troubling though. It's the only turn off for me. Lugging it to and from the truck every day would be taxing since it weighs about 40% more than my current slide saw.
Nice video Andy. I have the 12 inch version of this saw and love it. I put a 80 tooth Diablo on it and it cuts smooth. I do wish it had a laser or really the XPS lighting system. And I agree the Bosch Gravity Rise stand is awesome. #WORKSHOPADDICT
It's not an "anti-gravity" stand. It's a gravity assisted stand. Meaning that the way it's designed it uses gravity to actually stand it up into a working position so you don't have to lift it up.
His point was exactly that; it's good for left and right handers because the handle design is ambidextrous; not all saws are. This is a useful observation even if you don't understand it lol.
On a saw of this price omitting a laser or shadow line is a big no no, I have the 12" version of this and the dust collection even with vac attached is terrible, I hope this one is better but from the various videos I see it still spits a lot of dust out even with vac attached.
Ian Rose I hate the uneven tables on my Kapex. Festool has skull f-ed me on this, they won't fix or repair it. I'm going to post a scathing video review of the Kapex as soon as I get it back. Festool can F themselves.
Not a fan of lasers for fine woodworking. Lasers have there place for production - regardless of brand, most of my fine woodworking buddies install a zero clearance blade insert which provides blade reference on the front edge.
The hold down clamp is an insult for an expensive miter saw like this. My 15yr old makita LS1013 has a much more useful clamp... i'm looking at new saws and that hold down is a problem...I dont see anyone selling better ones aftermarket. I wouldn't worry about lasers. You register the side of a tooth on your pencil mark and you can do thousandths by eye..even with my 50yr old eyes. Laser is kind of a new fangled gimmick. Lining up off the side of a tooth, you could split your pencil mark in half...so no need for laser. Good video, and thanks for posting it !
Another reviewer stated it's about 33 inches from front to back, which is ~10 inches shorter than many sliding miter saws. A nice benefit for smaller shops.
Everything on this saw is well built except the critical adjustment connections which are all plastic. The side knob for the bevel adjustment is the worse and breaks easily. I fabricated my own replacement because it broke on day one. So stupid for Bosch to make a great saw and then cheap out on those areas. They could have engineered it better.
Daniel Balfour The 12" is the exact same saw, the only changes is the larger blade guard around the blade and the blade itself. The 10" is a very heavy saw for it's size and the is because they just made it fit a 10" blade.
Im shocked that this saw is as much as the dewalt. You really pay for that swivel arm huh? Better start saving though, cause I love it and need it to save space. Thanks for the vid.
The dewalt is better for finer wood working. The Bosch is better for framing in my opinion. The whole axial glide system has too much play. I’ve got 10 years on the dewalt and 3 years on the Bosch. I’m not surprised by the price, but I wish more “reviewers” would comment on this directly. There’s always a ton of comments on its poor accuracy but nobody who gets a lot of views can ever confirm the issue...
There not being a led or laser is a deal-breaker for me now. Especially for a saw of this caliber. There's just far too many better options in my humble opinion. I know this is a new thing but I also wouldn't by certain tools now if they're not brushless and cordless where performance isn't sacrificed.
Did anyone who has this saw have trouble adjusting the 45 degree left and right bevel? That's the one drawback I had. Poor engineering with that in my opinion.
FUCK BOSCH!!! Mine broke in half!! No shit! It tipped over while on its stand (bosch stand) it hit the DIRT gracefully under only the force of gravity. It broke just above one of the arms hinges. The only thing that kept it together was the power cord
I dont get it. You are a wood worker and want a laser?? Who uses that besides a residential homeowner which I would never trust. Also, hold downs. You have a stand why do you need hold downs. I have never in 20 years used a hold down and never had an issue. If I need a cut that precise I am probably moving over to a table saw. That saw is the Lamborgini of all miter saws, and you made it seem like it was a Ryobi.
After doing much research I ordered my Bosh CM10GD before finding your review. Yours is Hands down the best review I've seen so far. I learned things from your video I didn't know the saw did from other reviews. I'm now more confident in my purchase and looking forward to trying it out once it arrives.
This is the most thorough and concise review I’ve maybe ever seen. Thank you - exactly what I was hoping to find.
I bought this saw quite recently (about a week ago) and I simply love it. My older saw, though it served me well, was somewhat limited and I grew tired of flipping boards, and limited wide cuts. The video explained to me in detail, the finer poin ts of this saw. Its an execellent product, but Damn, it is heavy! Then again, you can't have it both ways.
I love Bosch products. They have never let me down. As far as Lasers go, Lasers are a joke. I'd much prefer the shadow line that are on some other miter saws like the DeWalt. As a sign fabricator, working in a shop environment for over 15 years, Lasers are the first thing to go. However, everyone works differently and mileage may vary of course.
is daaamm goood
Lasers will also move and need to be aligned over time
I have this saw for 4 years now, great saw,,, drawbacks, the blade guard developed a haze , and sawdust residue , that clouds view of cutting line, I actually have to apply a spring clamp to hold the blade guard up, so I have line of sight on cut, you’ll hear this from anyone who’s owned this very good saw, for a period of time
Mount a nut onto the hold downs knob. Keep a battery drill with the right bit near the saw and use the drill to apply and release the hold down rapidly. I know it's not ideal but it is a work around.
I've been a contractor since 1988. Need a new power mitre-saw and I've seen used/them all. Been thinking of this saw for months. Glad I viewed your take on it and although it looks like a nice saw, the slow start Makita is prolly where I'll end up just for the weight factor. Thank you
Tips.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that). .
Thanks for the detailed analysis. I am in the market for a replacement for an outdated saw and this looks like the winner. Based on price I think I will buy the 12" unit.
Andy, you hit every single positive and negative note I also have dead on the nose. I've never used a miter saw before but bought a brand new Bosch in Aug of 2020 and fell in love with it right away, with a couple small concerns. I don't like the amount of wrist-twisting I have to do on the hold-down clamp, but not much I can do there. Having to eyeball all my cuts seemed stupid especially since I could have bought another miter saw for half the price that included a floodlight and laser. I solved that problem by adding a small laser mounted to the little black bracket at the back of the blade which holds onto the shroud. It's wired up to a battery pack and trigger switch I mounted directly inside of the handle for easy access and a clean look.
Finally the review I was searching for! I’m picking up mine tomorrow. As for the laser dilemma, I have decided that, over the Festool, aside from the the obvious financial gain, the Bosch is far superior than the prior for a goooood reason : the handle! On the KPX, you somehow have to contort your wrist like if you were pouring water on a plant on a high shelf, while pressing the safety with your thumb. It is plainly stupid.
Also, the Bosch buttery glidness is superior, hands down.
So is it a fine woodworking saw or a construction saw? Or both? That was the thumbnail on your video, figured you'd give an answer near the end
It's all in the effort to remain "impartial" so everyone can pretend they're in the group consensus. It's kind of like those Bigfoot shows on Discovery channel. The show never actually delivers, and you always know how the end
I also have the Bosch laser washer and it works amazing. zero issues.
When the day comes I need to replace or upgrade my 12" ridgid slider I hope I can get one of these. I'm also suprised it doesn't have a laser, I don't pay attention to mine alot but with that said it is nice to draw a line on a board to an unknown angle and just align the laser to it.
you like the DC? I can't believe it. Mine covers the whole shop with sawdust. Three hinges. I can't stand the hold down it is clumsy and crude. I got the 12" and put a Ridge carbide mitre blade in it. It's a beast.
Only laser I need is the one on my pistol.
The zero clearance slide is a seller for me. Will allow me to save space in my garage shop.
As for the hold down issue..... if your using it for woodworking in a shop, build your own table and fence. You’ll get more control that way.
I just purchased this saw and really like it, thought I agree a user guide would be nice.
Adjustable laser?? In woodworking??? And 8/4 maple???
8/4 is 2 inches
Review? I herd/seen nothing about accuracy. The single biggest selling point of any saw is accuracy. Does it produce repeatable accurate cuts?
Said it was square out of the box and adjustable if it wasn’t....
in terms of repeatable cuts, he said the hold-downs are not too reliable. but anyway, i can make custom stop blocks.
How should I know?
For people who will use it for 90 degree cuts, a zero clearance insert will help line up cuts with more accuracy than a laser.
and who does only 90 degree cuts with their miter saw?
@@graphguy He is referring to the bevel being set, and left at 90 degrees. Most people do exactly that. He's right about that being the absolute best way to line up a cut.
I don't use lasers. I don't find them to be precise enough.
Construction or fine woodworking? You never answered the question posed on the opening frame. What's with that?
Wish I read this comment before watching the whole vid. The title is the only reason I watched this.
Inference?
Construction in my opinion. Too much play in the miter when it’s pulled out. Lifting that bevel handle is a real workout as well you have to have it mounted to a heavy bench or you’re prying open with both hands. I’m used to my 12” dewalt and this has been rough getting used to in the shop...
A miter saw isn’t really a fine woodworking tool in general.
Own it, as with all, too much play for fine consistency. Better suited for general cutting, so use your table saw for fine.
Totally agree. The hold down is cumbersome at best and I for one would love a laser. Other than that I love mine!
My Ridgid mitre saw has a laser, and honestly I don’t really use it. Measuring tape or ruler and pencil mark is best.
Just bought this saw. So far I like it. Mine was not accurate out of the box, it required some adjustment to the detent plate to get it 90deg. Hopefully it stays accurate, heard some rumblings about it coming out of 90 after some use. I can't see this being an issue for me since it's a dedicated shop saw, we shall see!
I have the 12" model and that thing is a beast!
I have a Diablo blade installed (Diablo is Freud). I upgrade the blades on all new tools since included blades in my experience are always junk. I don't cut a lot of really thick stuff so I cannot speak to the issue you are referring to. I have had to flip some pieces to get total width, but it was still safer and more accurate then using the table saw in that case. .
Make a cut and line up the cut line...is it absolutely flawless? or are there kerfs in the cut line? I can't make a perfect cut no matter how hard i try. THere is ALWAYS a kerf in the cut when i line them up. 10" saw is junk. Haven't tried the 12"
I want to buy the 12" but I'm concerned about the size. I wanna be able to transport it on the back of my silverado and be able to close the bed cover. Would you help me out and tell me if it would clear 20"? I don't think it does but if I put it on an angle sideways maybe?
Hope you can help. Thanks!
JcortesJ they are exactly the same size and weight. 18-1/4 high
Thanks! DungTrumpet ... I appreciate it.
How would you compare this saw to the Rigid R4241 (Same as the Delta glider)?
Does it have an LED light/blade-shadow?
How much lateral deflection is there at full slide extension?
Great video! I just bought this saw, in part thanks to your awesome review. I just assembled it and found that the bevel lock lever at the front left is loose and rattles. Is that normal? Thanks for your help.
What is the difference with the GCM10 GDJ model? Power? Price? New model?
Bought this for my friend for his birthday, and he loves it. Father-in-law was a little jealous, even. :)
Built solid, but light enough to move around for projects. Easy to use ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe and makes great precision cuts. Doesn't come with a laser mount, but the fence is straight as an arrow and if you measure carefully, it's not a problem. Can handle dimensional lumber with ease, but of course, there's a limit to how thick. Handled a 4x4" post without a problem, but 4x6" we had to flip and cut twice. Only thing we've noticed is make sure to tighten the nut that holds the saw blade when you take it out of the box and maybe check up on it occasionally. For some, this is probably a no-brainer, but we neglected to do this and a few months in, found the motor running but the blade spinning at about half speed or less. Tightened the nut, and problem was solved. Very happy with this purchase. Dewalt makes sturdy stuff.
I don't know of a single finish guy around me that uses a laser for precise work. I use the one on my kapex quite a bit for quick cuts though. They are still only reliably accurate to around a 16th. For more precision I'll use the laser to cut about an 8th forward of my mark and then work it in. I can reliably cut a line from a .5 mechanical pencil lead in half like that. With a laser, or even bringing the blade down on your mark that's near impossible to do consistently. I've found them much more helpful for making quick cuts when framing. Also the euro version of this saw has pretty much the same dual laser as the kapex if you're willing to go through the hassle of bringing one over.
We use our lasers on our Kapex every day. Love them! We adjust them to our eye and they are perfect.
Do the articulating arms and blade wobble? If they do, this unit is a no no for fine wood working.
Very strong informative video. Good job.
I got the 12 inch and love it.
this is defiantly one that I really want when the time comes that I have the funds to purchase. thanks for the details.
definitely...
DillysADV
I'd like to see a review of Makita's latest 12", the LS1219L. Makita makes great stuff but I have heard bad things about their miter saws. The LS1219L has been available since March 2018 yet there aren't any reviews of it anywhere, not UA-cam or anywhere on the interwebs.
A miter saw this good and this expensive should have the built in light casting a shadow on the blade for that perfect alignment like almost every other manufacturer has done. It’s so disappointing that Bosch didn’t think to add that. 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Are the features of the 10" the same as the 12"? Of course the 12 can do deeper cuts.
The trenching adjustment I could not set it shallow enough. When doing a kneebrace I could not get a stop at 1 inch . The bolt needs to be longer. Or do you take it out and put it in from the bottom
Can a Festool hold down be used on this miter saw? They are the best hold downs I've ever used.
Hey Andy love your videos. I’m thinking of buying this saw but after watching a few videos there seems to be some problems with accuracy espically on long cuts. The mechanism seems complicated with a lot of joints that may wear and get loose after a lot of use. Your thoughts.
What is your position on 12" saws? I'm trying to understand the pros/cons with the DeWalt DWS779 on sale everywhere for $349, but it seems that when a 10" slides it becomes just as capable as a 12" with 10" precision. Thoughts?
Normally 10 is more of a precision trim saw and 12 us more framing and decking. What do you need to cut? That Dewalt is a nice saw for the money!
@@WorkshopAddict I'm doing a little of everything. Flooring, 5-1/4" baseboards, window trim, and crown. Eventually I'll be moving onto the exterior where I'd like to build a deck, fence my backyard, and build my own shed. Lots of opinions out there claiming the 12" is not ideal for fine trim which has me leaning towards a 10" (even thought the DWS779 is a killer deal). That Bosch saw is mighty attractive too.. Thanks for replying!
@@avocadotoast9489 Many fine trim guys use a 12" and they use a good blade and take the time to make it right.
@@WorkshopAddict thank you for replying.
Like the saw....can't justify the price when my $300 DEWALT does everything I could possibly want. I 100% agree with you with the hold-down comment.
Chris Parker I hear you there, definitely some sticker shock! Although it does have the functionality of a radial arm saw, So if space is limited it may be justifiable.
Great review, I love my Bosch 10”, however id have to disagree on the dust collection. It’s my only real complaint with this saw
Good but looks to have more expenses than a slide compound mitre maintaining those glides seems a cost than a slide for accuracy they need to be serviced regularly.
There is a gentleman on youtube who has a video of how he put on a 20$ Amazon led light in this saw. Casts a shadow like dewalt saw does.
Hi, can you share with me the video? I am interested in adding it to my saw.
@@miguelsanz2835 ua-cam.com/video/uyOlMAOFazE/v-deo.html
@@miguelsanz2835 ua-cam.com/video/MHM8K-JS-Wk/v-deo.html
Just bought Bosch 10” Glide. Having one problem that maybe you can help with. When I make a glide cut, 5” or wider board, I’m left with what I will call a “tooth mark, or curved groove” at the point where the cut ends on my side of the blade. I’ve checked and adjusted for square and tried a different blade. Still a problem.. 90 degree and miter cuts. Any suggestions? I would appreciate. Tom
Just a shot in the dark here. Start the saw and let it get up to full speed. When you pull the saw back (saw is on) cut just an 1/8 of an inch deep scribe line in the wood. This may help set the blade in its vertical axis and not deflect when put into the wood. Don’t lift the blade out of the wood after you pull it back. Push the blade down and then push through your cut. What may be happening is 1) the blade is not up to full speed when it engages the wood and is deflecting in some weird way or 2) when the blade is engaging the full thickness of the wood a little too quickly and deflects once it passes deeper into the wood leaving the rest of the cut different that than the start of the cut. If you notice in the video, this guy is taking two to three passes to get completely through the wood which is his attempt to avoid any blade deflection.
Workshopaddict Andy, I'm considering this saw in addition to the older Milwaukee 6955-20. if you have used the Milwaukee what do you think of the power and accuracy and would you use it for woodworming?
John Lane I have used both and I would prefer the Bosch over the Milwaukee in a wood shop situation. If you are on the go more, then I would go with the cordless Milwaukee
My only experience with a laser on a miter saw is my 12 year old Craftsman. It wasn't accurate out of the box and I didn't spend much time trying to correct it so I never used it. Just a case of not missing something you never had kind of thing.
I recently purchased the 12” Bosch. They did a design change with the safety release switch on the underneath of the handle instead of sides which I am not a fan of. I have a short thumb due to loosing some of it in a non wood working way lol. The model on display was the one I was expecting. The other issue is not having the laser guide which definitely helps speed up location of cut. Other than that I love this Saw.
the EURO version of the saw does have a laser. I was tempted to order the parts from a Bosch Euro supplier and install on my USA version. But in the end, I really don't need it. I don't use this saw for precise crosscuts. That's what the table saw sled is for
Indeed, the table saw is the queen of the wood shop. Help me to understand how the telescoping or articulating electric miter saw has an advantage over the electric radial arm saw and manual miter box. It seems all stationary saws fail when trying to cutting trapezoid boards for a sand blasting cabinet.
I have the 12" and it has a laser. Surprised on your comment regarding the dust extraction, every single review I've seen here, and prior to purchasing, the consensus was that the only issue is the dust extraction.
Ben Good
Are you in Europe? My understanding is that the European model does have a laser, the US model doesn't.
This or the Makita 10" sliding? My garage is small so I can't have a saw with rails that stick out two feet behind it.
You have more options than just those two saws now. The Bosch 10" is just the 12" saw with a 10" blade and guard. So its larger than the 10" Makita. Does that help?
@@WorkshopAddict That does help. Can you let me know what other saws have fixed/forward rails (other than the Kapex)? I can barely turn around in my garage so the closer I can get something against the wall, the better.
@@GordonGEICO check out the metabo hpt saw
@@joshfoster7760 Thanks for the tip! I wound up grabbing the 2nd gen 10" Delta Cruzer on sale. Super happy with it.
GordonGEICO how do you like your delta? I am in between the Bosch and Delta
If you have 5 dedicated routers, i figured you'd spend the extra $30 for the Bosch laser attachment.
I've had one of these for a year now and love it. But the biggest problem is not having an alignment laser or light. If anyone knows of a good aftermarket laser or led light that would work, please comment... Otherwise, great review of this tool....
Ron Smith You do not have to go aftermarket. Bosch makes washers that replace the standard ones on each side of the blade. When the arbor turns, they automatically turn on. The MSRP of them is $30 each.
WorkshopAddict Great, I'll have to look for these on the web... Thx
I have the washer and it's fantastic.
www.amazon.com/Bosch-LS010-Miter-Laser-Washer/dp/B004GH6YYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489092978&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+laser+washer
i have the 12". it's the european version, mine has a dual laser(both sides of blade) and works pretty good. you just have to know where it cuts compared to the line.
I need the laser. every things else looks like a winner. what is price.
Has anyone removed the rotating table base from the saw? Yeah it became harder to rotate. The center bolt no longer fit back in but seems to be close, don't want to force it. No rust or anything, wonder if heating the aluminum center hole is part of the reinstallation procedure?
How good is the dust extraction on this saw? I’ve had a Bosch mitre saw for 15 years, still going as I’ve taken care of it but the dust extraction is non existent.
This saw sucks also.
@@WorkshopAddict Didn't you say it had noteworthy dust collection......one of the top 3 you'd ever used??? Or did you mean sucks in a good way?
I don't know about a laser but some sort of optical cut alignment is de rigueur.
Does the saw have a laser light for cutting
No, but for $20 bucks you can add Bosch laser washers.
Does anyone know what the distance from the fence face to the back of the axial glide mechanism?
Does this saw allow setting depth of cut? Like for rabbets & dados?
Watch the video. Dado stop setting.
Yeah I wish it had a laser also very handy to have
I think it depends on what you call fine woodworking with any miter saw; really.
Well said. Blade quality is key to cut quality. Calibration for everything else.
The trenching feature really caught my interest. I'm a finish carpenter and have to do that by hand a lot. The weight of this saw is troubling though. It's the only turn off for me. Lugging it to and from the truck every day would be taxing since it weighs about 40% more than my current slide saw.
I want to see the 10 inch in the UK!!!! Why only the 12 why 😫😫😫😫😫
Nice video Andy. I have the 12 inch version of this saw and love it. I put a 80 tooth Diablo on it and it cuts smooth. I do wish it had a laser or really the XPS lighting system. And I agree the Bosch Gravity Rise stand is awesome. #WORKSHOPADDICT
Buy an industrial blade. It'll blow your mind
no holes for crown stops???
It's not an "anti-gravity" stand. It's a gravity assisted stand. Meaning that the way it's designed it uses gravity to actually stand it up into a working position so you don't have to lift it up.
399.00 at Home Depot! One thing I read was the accuracy was not so great!
"So if you're someone who's left or right handed..." well shoot, that's me! How did he know??
Hey me too!
His point was exactly that; it's good for left and right handers because the handle design is ambidextrous; not all saws are. This is a useful observation even if you don't understand it lol.
Excellent
On a saw of this price omitting a laser or shadow line is a big no no, I have the 12" version of this and the dust collection even with vac attached is terrible, I hope this one is better but from the various videos I see it still spits a lot of dust out even with vac attached.
I agree it should have a shadow line.
There is YT video that shows how a dust port adapter was fabricated that does an almost Kapex level of dust collection.
There's no such thing as a miter saw with a "good" dust collection system...
I'm a furniture builder and I love the laser on my Kapex!!
Ian Rose
I hate the uneven tables on my Kapex. Festool has skull f-ed me on this, they won't fix or repair it. I'm going to post a scathing video review of the Kapex as soon as I get it back. Festool can F themselves.
I WISH SOMEONE WOULD GIVE THEM ALL DROP TESTS
can it cut metal
iron steel
I've got this with a laser, works a treat
Zac Horstman
Are you in Europe?
Not a fan of lasers for fine woodworking. Lasers have there place for production - regardless of brand, most of my fine woodworking buddies install a zero clearance blade insert which provides blade reference on the front edge.
The hold down clamp is an insult for an expensive miter saw like this. My 15yr old makita LS1013 has a much more useful clamp... i'm looking at new saws and that hold down is a problem...I dont see anyone selling better ones aftermarket. I wouldn't worry about lasers. You register the side of a tooth on your pencil mark and you can do thousandths by eye..even with my 50yr old eyes. Laser is kind of a new fangled gimmick. Lining up off the side of a tooth, you could split your pencil mark in half...so no need for laser. Good video, and thanks for posting it !
your opinion, laser is very handy when you don't have multiple feet of support with a long board.
Their older style hold down is a much better, faster acting, design. It is still available for about $20 and fits this saw.
missmymountain i
What's the total lenth from front to back?
Another reviewer stated it's about 33 inches from front to back, which is ~10 inches shorter than many sliding miter saws. A nice benefit for smaller shops.
@@RayStarbirdHome Thanks. Given limited space in my studio. I went with Dewalt713. Thanks for the review.
Everything on this saw is well built except the critical adjustment connections which are all plastic. The side knob for the bevel adjustment is the worse and breaks easily. I fabricated my own replacement because it broke on day one. So stupid for Bosch to make a great saw and then cheap out on those areas. They could have engineered it better.
Outstanding review. Wish you'd also review the 12"
Daniel Balfour The 12" is the exact same saw, the only changes is the larger blade guard around the blade and the blade itself. The 10" is a very heavy saw for it's size and the is because they just made it fit a 10" blade.
Im shocked that this saw is as much as the dewalt. You really pay for that swivel arm huh? Better start saving though, cause I love it and need it to save space. Thanks for the vid.
Linop. Not sure why you are shocked that the bosch is as expensive as the Dewalt ?
The dewalt is better for finer wood working. The Bosch is better for framing in my opinion. The whole axial glide system has too much play. I’ve got 10 years on the dewalt and 3 years on the Bosch. I’m not surprised by the price, but I wish more “reviewers” would comment on this directly. There’s always a ton of comments on its poor accuracy but nobody who gets a lot of views can ever confirm the issue...
Nice tool man. Do you Smart
Great review. Brilliant saw. I do still prefer the xps lighting system of the desalt dws780 over the standard laser.
This is the Mercedes Benz of miter saws
Shadow line bro!
No laser,no purchase!
There not being a led or laser is a deal-breaker for me now. Especially for a saw of this caliber. There's just far too many better options in my humble opinion. I know this is a new thing but I also wouldn't by certain tools now if they're not brushless and cordless where performance isn't sacrificed.
What's 31.6 degrees for?
Jay Sybrandy Crown molding.
WorkshopAddict what for?
Jay Sybrandy when you have a 90 degrees wall intersection, your miter angle would be 31.6 and bevel would be 33.9
is daaammm. goooodddd
No laser?! That blows chunks!
Lasers are useless in my opinion for fine accurate cuts.
Pretty nice. TY.
The saw not having a laser or shadow line was unfortunately the deal breaker for me. Really liked all the features. It's a very nice saw
Did anyone who has this saw have trouble adjusting the 45 degree left and right bevel? That's the one drawback I had. Poor engineering with that in my opinion.
FUCK BOSCH!!! Mine broke in half!! No shit! It tipped over while on its stand (bosch stand) it hit the DIRT gracefully under only the force of gravity. It broke just above one of the arms hinges. The only thing that kept it together was the power cord
Nice review. I need a new saw ... mine sucks #WorkshopAddict
Wallace Moore your saw then must have a good dust collection
I dont get it. You are a wood worker and want a laser?? Who uses that besides a residential homeowner which I would never trust. Also, hold downs. You have a stand why do you need hold downs. I have never in 20 years used a hold down and never had an issue. If I need a cut that precise I am probably moving over to a table saw. That saw is the Lamborgini of all miter saws, and you made it seem like it was a Ryobi.
Forget the laser and add “zero clearance” material to the base and back stop.
I'm with you on that