I’ve had Kawasaki engines do this before , it’s because they’ll run well even when they’re worn out and need to be rebuilt or changed completely. Also Kawasaki valve guides slip when they wear out and the heads have to be replaced . It can cause exhaust valves to bend and be stuck open
Look for the breather that ventillates the crankcase. If it is blocked it might cause your rough idle and blow-by too. Older engines are not blowing the fumes to the intake breather. They usually blow the fumes to the atmosphere. If you know someone with a compression tester get that done. If all else fails get some oil that is used for older motors. It is formulated to have less blow-by.
Mine, symptoms were, running rough and blowing oil out the exhaust. It was seeping a little oil under the shrouds and collected crud blocking airflow cooling the left cylinder. Overheated. Melted the valve guide, stuck the exhaust valve, bent the valve, smacking the piston, bent the pushrod, and of course the valve guide slid into the combustion chamber as far as the valve would allow it. And warped the head. I bought a used head. Cleaned it up. Straightened the pushrods, lapped the valves and replaced the valve guide seals. That head was warped too so I flattened it with sandpaper on glass. The new used head immediately slid the valve guide into the cylinder and blew the valve guide seal off. SO I removed the valve guide, beat the crap out of it with a framing hammer and pounded it back in the head. I did a leak down test last week and it was hissing out the exhaust so I ordered a valve. Tore the thing down and the guy sent me the wrong valve. So I lapped the valves and put the thing back together. This mower has to work every day. Healthy or not. Right now the engine runs like crap, blows smoke, fouls the left plug and uses oil. But, there is no blow-by. HMM. Let me think about this. There is no blow by coming out of the tube that goes into the intake but if you pull the oil filler cap it blows oil all everywhere. I just got a compression tester so Ima go test the compression right now. This engine has been working sick at least 800 hours,.
Wow. I see several people saying to pull the heads and inspect the head gaskets. Lol. You can perform a cylinder leak down test in a few minutes. No need to pull the heads.
Well, seems like a new engine. Now, if people only let the engines warm up before starting the mowing process, they surely would last a little longer. But, people like to smack full throttle while it's barely lukewarm. But hey.
I have a John Deere with a 20 horse V-Twin that does the same thing it will foul the plugs and it will blow a lot of smoke out at one time and then it'll run fine and it made blow it out again
That surge more than likely is a bad Welch plug in the top of the carburetor mine had the same surge and a blown head gasket once I fixed those it cleared right up ran like a new machine!!!
You have one of 2 problems first I would look at is pulling the heads and check out the head gaskets from there if the head gaskets don't show signs of seapage then I'd say bad Ring's.
more than 2 things could be wrong here there is valve guides that could drop and seals that could go bad, Valve worn where it rides in guide at, it could be a crank breather clogged, valves have carbon build up on them, all kinds of things and why pull heads when a test can show you if the heads need to be pulled or not. This is proper diagnosis: get a leak down tester and test the condition of the rings and of the head. If you hear air in the crank case good chance it is rings if it is coming from intake or exhaust pull head and see whats wrong with it.
I have the same mower, I just replaced my rings, they where so worn I had fuel in my oil and it would not start. Everything was in great condition... except the rings
That is awesome! I may have to eventually do that. I just used some sea foam in the oil and let it run for a while then fresh oil change with some Lucas added to the new oil and it took care of the smoking issue... for now. I don't know how long it will last, but at least it saves me from having to tear into the block for the moment.
Service Data and other manuals... www.kawasaki-engines.eu/en/support/technical-information/technical-downloads/?f_series=FH&f_model=FH480V&f_specification=FH480V-BS24
I’ve had Kawasaki engines do this before , it’s because they’ll run well even when they’re worn out and need to be rebuilt or changed completely. Also Kawasaki valve guides slip when they wear out and the heads have to be replaced . It can cause exhaust valves to bend and be stuck open
Look for the breather that ventillates the crankcase. If it is blocked it might cause your rough idle and blow-by too. Older engines are not blowing the fumes to the intake breather. They usually blow the fumes to the atmosphere. If you know someone with a compression tester get that done. If all else fails get some oil that is used for older motors. It is formulated to have less blow-by.
Mine, symptoms were, running rough and blowing oil out the exhaust. It was seeping a little oil under the shrouds and collected crud blocking airflow cooling the left cylinder. Overheated. Melted the valve guide, stuck the exhaust valve, bent the valve, smacking the piston, bent the pushrod, and of course the valve guide slid into the combustion chamber as far as the valve would allow it. And warped the head.
I bought a used head. Cleaned it up. Straightened the pushrods, lapped the valves and replaced the valve guide seals. That head was warped too so I flattened it with sandpaper on glass. The new used head immediately slid the valve guide into the cylinder and blew the valve guide seal off. SO I removed the valve guide, beat the crap out of it with a framing hammer and pounded it back in the head.
I did a leak down test last week and it was hissing out the exhaust so I ordered a valve. Tore the thing down and the guy sent me the wrong valve. So I lapped the valves and put the thing back together. This mower has to work every day. Healthy or not. Right now the engine runs like crap, blows smoke, fouls the left plug and uses oil. But, there is no blow-by. HMM. Let me think about this. There is no blow by coming out of the tube that goes into the intake but if you pull the oil filler cap it blows oil all everywhere.
I just got a compression tester so Ima go test the compression right now. This engine has been working sick at least 800 hours,.
Wow. I see several people saying to pull the heads and inspect the head gaskets. Lol. You can perform a cylinder leak down test in a few minutes. No need to pull the heads.
this lol so many people quick to get into a big job instead of doing proper diagnosis
Well, seems like a new engine. Now, if people only let the engines warm up before starting the mowing process, they surely would last a little longer. But, people like to smack full throttle while it's barely lukewarm. But hey.
I have a John Deere with a 20 horse V-Twin that does the same thing it will foul the plugs and it will blow a lot of smoke out at one time and then it'll run fine and it made blow it out again
Did you ever fix the smoking? Looks just like mine.
It's either ur rings going bad or u got a bad head gasket on a cylinder
Have a leakdown test performed by a Kawasaki dealer. If this unit has 1000 + hours on it, it needs rebuild.
That surge more than likely is a bad Welch plug in the top of the carburetor mine had the same surge and a blown head gasket once I fixed those it cleared right up ran like a new machine!!!
You have one of 2 problems first I would look at is pulling the heads and check out the head gaskets from there if the head gaskets don't show signs of seapage then I'd say bad Ring's.
more than 2 things could be wrong here there is valve guides that could drop and seals that could go bad, Valve worn where it rides in guide at, it could be a crank breather clogged, valves have carbon build up on them, all kinds of things and why pull heads when a test can show you if the heads need to be pulled or not. This is proper diagnosis: get a leak down tester and test the condition of the rings and of the head. If you hear air in the crank case good chance it is rings if it is coming from intake or exhaust pull head and see whats wrong with it.
valve guide seal worn out or gone or rings need to be changed
I have the same mower, I just replaced my rings, they where so worn I had fuel in my oil and it would not start. Everything was in great condition... except the rings
That is awesome! I may have to eventually do that.
I just used some sea foam in the oil and let it run for a while then fresh oil change with some Lucas added to the new oil and it took care of the smoking issue... for now. I don't know how long it will last, but at least it saves me from having to tear into the block for the moment.
ua-cam.com/video/fE_YIKgycOE/v-deo.html
Specs on a web site... www.engine-specs.net/kawasaki/fh480v.html
Kawasaki manuals... www.kawasakienginesusa.com/support/manuals.html
Service Data and other manuals... www.kawasaki-engines.eu/en/support/technical-information/technical-downloads/?f_series=FH&f_model=FH480V&f_specification=FH480V-BS24
You have blow by. You have rebuild the motor or get another motor
Rings valve guides if it’s a head gasket bunch of exhaust smoke will come out we’re you fill oil
My scag v-ride does the same thing I'm going to get a new piston
Update on the mower??
Luke Ruf
Never mentioned having tried anything in the first place, like changing the oil, so I suppose it's burned itself out by now🏳
strong arm lol, ,probably low compression...
Could u tell me what Kawasaki engine model that is? And what year?
New rings
Rings
need rings