Thanks to Gray for the timber boards and now I must getting the board ready for the porthole window. Getting these right is a must but not an easy job to do.
Thanks again for taking us along with you on the build. If it feels a little crowded on the boat it's just because us followers are with you every step of the way . Thanks again and stay safe.
Great video may I suggest you make a timber ring support for thr gap between the wall panel and the steel side this will allow a true3 solid bolt up and minimise chance3 of working and leaks
I was planning on putting battens all around or at least where the bolts go through to give it more rigidity - I think thats you mean I’ll also be adding some rubber gasket type stuff too
Narrowboats are so different from any boat I've ever "messed about with" more power to you for figuring out your own way to do the fit out. The portlights on our sailboats were always hinged from the top, so when they were open they were held up out of the way by little toggles attached to the overhead.
My thoughts as well. It's relying on friction and a bit of sticky luck. I'm sure will last for a while but when it starts to come free then it's all going on the floor.
@johnchristmas310 - James is not a boat builder, he's self taught and focuses on making attractive, comfortable interiors that will make the boat easy to sell, so he can finally get the widebeam of his dreams. Subsequent owners will realise that it was built to look good, not last.
My biggest suggestion for you after watching many boat rebuild and construction videos over the last several years would be putting battens in to frame the porthole on either side with proper waterproofing on all sides of the framing and the porthole structure itself. The porthole should be sealed water tight on both sides of the steel wall, with internal flashing to keep condensation off the battens inside the wall. Basically you are making a hole in the wall sealed off from everything, except for the porthole itself. I trust you will figure this all out on your own, but I figured I would toss in my two cents. I’m sure it will look great when you are done can’t wait to see the end result.
Watching the video a bit further, I see you’re trying to remove material from around the porthole that’s interfering with a flush fit. I would encourage you to go and look for a marine grade seal for on the interior around the porthole which would negate all of these problems. These things are meant to be seated with multiple gaskets, both on either side of the wall and internally inside the wall.
Very warm here in Oz thanks James, 34C. Before you trim any metal off put the two parts together and measure the gap between them. It looked like you could have removed the washers on the porthole screws and they would have been flush with the rim.
You did great! The porthole looks like it’s always been there, or will once finished. I know you’ll be happy when the walls and ceiling are finished!!!
I'm up at Garstang at the moment and heading for the Ribble Link and onto the Lancaster , spend the winter somewhere near Lancaster . Then back down and the Llangollen , then down to the Rickie . Looking forward to it , actually meeting James , Marlon, Sweary Dan and Rob . I would really like having a couple of beers and a chat with them .
Having the porthole hinged from the side means that it will always default to "sticking out in the bloody way" when it's open, unless you fit a retaining catch, James. Thought you had spotted that ? You'll figure it out, I'm sure. All the best, mate. P.S. Thanks for that link, this afternoon. 😉
Greetings Sark: I’ve been “disconnected” from James for quite awhile now. I’ve stumbled onto this newer vlog where he appears to be launching a new adventure. Does he still own Sloe Patrol… did he sell it… did it sink 😂😂. This Narrowboat appears considerably bigger (longer) than his previous fitting out. Could you bring me up to speed somewhat. Hope you’re doing well. 👍 Canada’s Eastern Seaboard 🇨🇦
@@presspound7358 Good evening. In answer to your questions, yes, no, and no, she's moored alongside "Project 58." It's 15 feet longer than Sloe Patrol, and a fair bit newer.
@@IDKline Thank you. Something that I didn’t ask Sark was …. does James intend to make Project 57/58 his own live aboard Narrowboat once the refit is complete.? Canada’s Eastern Seaboard 👍🇨🇦
Sometimes placement by eye is best. If you have someone hold the port window trim and move it to where it looks best. With its shape you can get away with it.
He is doing a really good job . I just do not get why he is over complicating the galley . It just is not needed , a narrowboat needs to be just functional and utilise all the space you have . Why complicate it with curves ?
Thanks for your comment. I totally hear what you’re saying and you’re not wrong. However, I’m aiming for functional obviously and a bit of style. I wouldn’t compromise space for design but this isn’t much of a compromise. Not every square ft must be optimised - space and design and feel are as important for a liveaboard
I live aboard a Narrowboat , I'm a continuous cruiser . I will take function over design any time , believe me . May I ask a question , what temperatures are you getting with your new stove ? I'm thinking about it .
It is your boat , and ultimately you will live with it .. Nice steps as you walk in , they are nice . I'm not too sure about the Diesel burner - it looks nice , but does it heat his 59 ft boat . My boat is 55 ft , trad stern , will it heat my boat ... Be honest James ...
The two protruding screw heads could of been overcome by taking the screws out, using thinner washers and countersinking them. Job done, no protruding screws.
Well done on working it all out, measuring important stuff is always nerve-wracking. Those massive screwy bits (technical term!) sticking out from the porthole are giving me the heebeegeebees, I don't mind admitting. I'd be constantly looking at the bits sticking out... wondering how to cover them at night, or how to stop bashing myself on them... but maybe that's because I live in a house? 😅
James I can't help but think non opening portholes would have been a lot similar. That said you could put a couple of self tapping screws in the outer frame to hold it in place during installation. When all installed take them out and fit the last 2 bolts.
To be honest I'm not in love with these portholes. I know you're working with what you have, but I really hope you can eventually replace them with windows.
@@prof2bobajob.klonded5I'm sorry, you seem to have mistaken me for someone who cares about your opinion. Whatever could have possibly given you that impression, I cannot fathom.
Here’s my PayPal link if you’d like to get involved www.paypal.me/narrowboatjames
Thanks again for taking us along with you on the build. If it feels a little crowded on the boat it's just because us followers are with you every step of the way . Thanks again and stay safe.
Great video may I suggest you make a timber ring support for thr gap between the wall panel and the steel side this will allow a true3 solid bolt up and minimise chance3 of working and leaks
I was planning on putting battens all around or at least where the bolts go through to give it more rigidity - I think thats you mean
I’ll also be adding some rubber gasket type stuff too
James, I'm sorry that this is too late for this porthole. On the other one could you have a sort of gasket? 👍
Narrowboats are so different from any boat I've ever "messed about with" more power to you for figuring out your own way to do the fit out.
The portlights on our sailboats were always hinged from the top, so when they were open they were held up out of the way by little toggles attached to the overhead.
Still not convinced that spray foam is a great adhesive for battons.
My thoughts as well. It's relying on friction and a bit of sticky luck. I'm sure will last for a while but when it starts to come free then it's all going on the floor.
@johnchristmas310 - James is not a boat builder, he's self taught and focuses on making attractive, comfortable interiors that will make the boat easy to sell, so he can finally get the widebeam of his dreams.
Subsequent owners will realise that it was built to look good, not last.
Sending warmth from the Caribbean your way, your dedication to the task is inspiring!
My biggest suggestion for you after watching many boat rebuild and construction videos over the last several years would be putting battens in to frame the porthole on either side with proper waterproofing on all sides of the framing and the porthole structure itself. The porthole should be sealed water tight on both sides of the steel wall, with internal flashing to keep condensation off the battens inside the wall. Basically you are making a hole in the wall sealed off from everything, except for the porthole itself. I trust you will figure this all out on your own, but I figured I would toss in my two cents. I’m sure it will look great when you are done can’t wait to see the end result.
Watching the video a bit further, I see you’re trying to remove material from around the porthole that’s interfering with a flush fit. I would encourage you to go and look for a marine grade seal for on the interior around the porthole which would negate all of these problems. These things are meant to be seated with multiple gaskets, both on either side of the wall and internally inside the wall.
I agree, also a thick rubber gasket behind the internal ring would help and take care of the screw heads. Use a gym mat to make the gasket,
@@dwansboyup, good idea 💡
Great advice 🙂
This!
Very warm here in Oz thanks James, 34C. Before you trim any metal off put the two parts together and measure the gap between them. It looked like you could have removed the washers on the porthole screws and they would have been flush with the rim.
I tried removing the washers and it made hardly any difference. That’s so warm - I’m watching Oz now through I’m a celeb !!
Exciting and worrisome in equal measures, those portholes! They are going to look fantastic.
You did great! The porthole looks like it’s always been there, or will once finished. I know you’ll be happy when the walls and ceiling are finished!!!
Great video James you manage to work things out and make a great job of it. Have great week 😊
Cheers Sandy
Today I cut the hole in the boat and tomorrow will be spent mainly swearing and hoping it fits
I'm up at Garstang at the moment and heading for the Ribble Link and onto the Lancaster , spend the winter somewhere near Lancaster . Then back down and the Llangollen , then down to the Rickie . Looking forward to it , actually meeting James , Marlon, Sweary Dan and Rob . I would really like having a couple of beers and a chat with them .
I'm surprised there are no,(rubber?), sealing rings between the porthole and the boat/inside wall.
They’re weren’t any provided but I’ve got some which will hopefully work just the same
Great vlog James!
Did they not give you a neoprene gasket to go with your port holes?
It would be nice if the porthole makers provided a template!
Having the porthole hinged from the side means that it will always default to "sticking out in the bloody way" when it's open, unless you fit a retaining catch, James.
Thought you had spotted that ?
You'll figure it out, I'm sure.
All the best, mate.
P.S. Thanks for that link, this afternoon. 😉
Greetings Sark: I’ve been “disconnected” from James for quite awhile now. I’ve stumbled onto this newer vlog where he appears to be launching a new adventure. Does he still own Sloe Patrol… did he sell it… did it sink 😂😂. This Narrowboat appears considerably bigger (longer) than his previous fitting out. Could you bring me up to speed somewhat. Hope you’re doing well. 👍
Canada’s Eastern Seaboard 🇨🇦
@@presspound7358 Good evening. In answer to your questions, yes, no, and no, she's moored alongside "Project 58."
It's 15 feet longer than Sloe Patrol, and a fair bit newer.
@@sarkybugger5009 Thanks Sark. Top of the evening to you there in Folkestone where the mercury registers 3 C.
👍😊🎩🌂🌲
@@IDKline Thank you. Something that I didn’t ask Sark was …. does James intend to make Project 57/58 his own live aboard Narrowboat once the refit is complete.?
Canada’s Eastern Seaboard 👍🇨🇦
@@IDKline Thanks. 👍🇨🇦
Sometimes placement by eye is best. If you have someone hold the port window trim and move it to where it looks best. With its shape you can get away with it.
🫣can’t look James ! 🫣🫣🫣
Good luck looking very hard work tc now theoldies 🤗👍🤗👍
He is doing a really good job . I just do not get why he is over complicating the galley . It just is not needed , a narrowboat needs to be just functional and utilise all the space you have . Why complicate it with curves ?
Thanks for your comment. I totally hear what you’re saying and you’re not wrong. However, I’m aiming for functional obviously and a bit of style. I wouldn’t compromise space for design but this isn’t much of a compromise. Not every square ft must be optimised - space and design and feel are as important for a liveaboard
I live aboard a Narrowboat , I'm a continuous cruiser . I will take function over design any time , believe me . May I ask a question , what temperatures are you getting with your new stove ? I'm thinking about it .
It is your boat , and ultimately you will live with it .. Nice steps as you walk in , they are nice . I'm not too sure about the Diesel burner - it looks nice , but does it heat his 59 ft boat . My boat is 55 ft , trad stern , will it heat my boat ... Be honest James ...
The two protruding screw heads could of been overcome by taking the screws out, using thinner washers and countersinking them. Job done, no protruding screws.
That would have helped a bit but not overcome the problem entirely.
Should portholes be kinda eye 👁🗨 level from inside
Yeah - these kind of will be - depending on your heights obvs
James, a suggestion for when the portholes are open....glue an earth magnet to the wall and it will hold the opened bit in place. Does that work?
Errrr arnt you meant to put some sort of rubber gasket behind your porthole’s 🤔
I’ll be using something to make a rubber gasket on both sides - ta
Well done on working it all out, measuring important stuff is always nerve-wracking. Those massive screwy bits (technical term!) sticking out from the porthole are giving me the heebeegeebees, I don't mind admitting. I'd be constantly looking at the bits sticking out... wondering how to cover them at night, or how to stop bashing myself on them... but maybe that's because I live in a house? 😅
James I can't help but think non opening portholes would have been a lot similar. That said you could put a couple of self tapping screws in the outer frame to hold it in place during installation. When all installed take them out and fit the last 2 bolts.
James. Are you sure the portholes will seal from outside? Regards Pete D
Yes I hoping so. I have some rubber strips to help the seal and I’ll be using plenty of silicon
Why not just chuck those cheese head bolts away and use countersink bolts instead?
👍👌♥️🇨🇦
Good to see 6 P's
Sorted out.....
Thanks as always
It work I’m sure
💜💙💚
To be honest I'm not in love with these portholes. I know you're working with what you have, but I really hope you can eventually replace them with windows.
@@prof2bobajob.klonded5I'm sorry, you seem to have mistaken me for someone who cares about your opinion.
Whatever could have possibly given you that impression, I cannot fathom.