I appreciate the clarity. The wiring harness from the generator in the Winnebago 33c SiteSeer (2016) has 5 wires from the generator. Two (2) white, One (1) black, One (1) green, One (1) Black w/ Yellow Strip. This brings me to the question, Since 1 black (hot), one White Neutral, and one Green (ground) makes sense from explanation, where does the second white and black w/ Yellow stripe attach.
@harveybryant794 both whites are neutral,both blacks are hot, the striped black is the 30 amp circuit breaker on the generator and the plain black is the 20 amp breaker. Hope that helps!
You do a great job explaining stuff. I'm surprised your channel hasn't exploded with more people watching. I guess you need to be a UA-cam pro also to make that happen?
Yea I had one go bad the other day 17 years old with EPO system built in . I had purchased sometime back a Hughes Autoformer that will boost my ac voltage up to 12vac if needed. When I got to the RV park the power was going out a couple time a day . I ordered a Hughes Watchdog with EPO came in and the same day the power went dead. The RV park outside box had wires that had over heated and the 50 breaker was bad as well as burned spots on the 50a plug " all related to the RV park outside box " . My surge Guard " automatic Transfer Switch with EPO even with shore input power was not engaging the contactor even though it had both 124vac legs hot on the contactor. I wired around the automatic transfer switch using my autoformer and watchdog unit. Now I need a automatic transfer switch but without the smart EPO circuit, so the price is not $1000 but just standard transfer switch that is from 200 to 300 dollars. I just do not have generator power until I order and install the automatic transfer switch. The Watchdog with EPO has Bluetooth so I can see what is going on all the time with my smart phone that option I do like. Just thought this would be something that someone might like to read about what happened to me lol .
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
Great video! You mentioned a 1ms delay for the Generator relay to turn on. Isnt there a time delay before which the Generator Relay Engages and passes power through? Is it configurable.
Enjoyed your video. Maybe you can help confirm something for me. When I plug my 50 amp rig into 50 amp shore power everything does as it should. However, when I connect to 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, I hear this click/clunk about every two seconds and no power is getting to the rig. As a work around, I can run the generator for about 15 minutes, THEN turn on the 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, run the ginny and shore power at the same time for about 15 minutes, then shut down the ginny and the click/clunk is no longer there and the gauges indicate that it is charging the rig as it should. Does this sound like the ATS has gone bad? Is there a way to check to be sure?
Hello, I have a 50 amp service RV . Recently went to a campground plugged into a 30 amp service an realized I was getting no power inside my RV . Tested the Transfer switch. I was getting 119 V going into the switch but nothing coming out . Assuming my switch went ,I replaced it with a “ Briidea 50 amp switch off Amazon . Hooked it all up, Generator side works perfect. But when I hooked up my rv to my 30 amp plug in my garage, I’m still getting power in but nothing out ?? Can you help?
If possible add this Transfer Switch to an electrical system where a Solar System and a current Inverter are present in addition to Generator and the Shore Input Line?
I would recommend this model, I don't endorse this company or promote their products at a professional capacity, but can tell you I find these to be well built and reliable.
@RobNickle Unplug the RV. Remove the wires from the output side of the primary contactor, then choose shore or generator and remove them frome the contactor and wire nut black to black, white to white, red to red. This will disable the ability to transfer between shore and generator but will provide temporary power until the switch can be changed. Remember I strongly recommend a skilled RV Technician or electrician perform this bypass, I do not take any responsibility for damage or injury should you attempt this yourself.
@RobNickle Not if you want the ability to transfer from shore to generator. You should have a 1 year warranty on that newer switch, make them give you a new one. If it's not surge guard brand perhaps consider Changing to it.
@MRRVTECH thx for the quick response. Ok thats good to know. This is a full time living unit with shore power. So if im understanding correct it's only design is to go from gen or shore as options. My concern is when the warranty is over and it goes again then I gotta pay. I really just wanna eliminate it safely.
I appreciate the clarity. The wiring harness from the generator in the Winnebago 33c SiteSeer (2016) has 5 wires from the generator. Two (2) white, One (1) black, One (1) green, One (1) Black w/ Yellow Strip. This brings me to the question, Since 1 black (hot), one White Neutral, and one Green (ground) makes sense from explanation, where does the second white and black w/ Yellow stripe attach.
@harveybryant794 both whites are neutral,both blacks are hot, the striped black is the 30 amp circuit breaker on the generator and the plain black is the 20 amp breaker. Hope that helps!
Thanks for explaining this switch in a way that even a dummy like me understood. Good Job!
You do a great job explaining stuff. I'm surprised your channel hasn't exploded with more people watching. I guess you need to be a UA-cam pro also to make that happen?
I guess so.....
Yea I had one go bad the other day 17 years old with EPO system built in . I had purchased sometime back a Hughes Autoformer that will boost my ac voltage up to 12vac if needed. When I got to the RV park the power was going out a couple time a day . I ordered a Hughes Watchdog with EPO came in and the same day the power went dead. The RV park outside box had wires that had over heated and the 50 breaker was bad as well as burned spots on the 50a plug " all related to the RV park outside box " . My surge Guard " automatic Transfer Switch with EPO even with shore input power was not engaging the contactor even though it had both 124vac legs hot on the contactor. I wired around the automatic transfer switch using my autoformer and watchdog unit. Now I need a automatic transfer switch but without the smart EPO circuit, so the price is not $1000 but just standard transfer switch that is from 200 to 300 dollars. I just do not have generator power until I order and install the automatic transfer switch. The Watchdog with EPO has Bluetooth so I can see what is going on all the time with my smart phone that option I do like. Just thought this would be something that someone might like to read about what happened to me lol .
Most Automatic Generator Transfer Switches use AC coil that buzz - hum. I found only one company that uses DC coils that do not buzz and hum: SCO, they make both a 30amp the LPT30BRD and 50 amp Automatic Transfer Switches.
Awesome - thank you! Are there any kits that one can buy to do wiring for a custom-build camper?
Custom is custom, I'm not sure what you mean.....
Great video! You mentioned a 1ms delay for the Generator relay to turn on. Isnt there a time delay before which the Generator Relay Engages and passes power through? Is it configurable.
It is not configurable preset TDR ( time delay relay)
Should there be continuity between L1, L2 and L3 of the Generator side?
So this ats doesn’t actually trigger the generator to start?
Really great share!!
Larry
Enjoyed your video. Maybe you can help confirm something for me. When I plug my 50 amp rig into 50 amp shore power everything does as it should. However, when I connect to 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, I hear this click/clunk about every two seconds and no power is getting to the rig. As a work around, I can run the generator for about 15 minutes, THEN turn on the 30 amp or 15 amp shore power, run the ginny and shore power at the same time for about 15 minutes, then shut down the ginny and the click/clunk is no longer there and the gauges indicate that it is charging the rig as it should. Does this sound like the ATS has gone bad? Is there a way to check to be sure?
Yeah, sounds like the contactor may be weak or the power sensing PCB is not seeing the power as it should, but probably the contactor( electromagnet).
Hello, I have a 50 amp service RV . Recently went to a campground plugged into a 30 amp service an realized I was getting no power inside my RV . Tested the Transfer switch. I was getting 119 V going into the switch but nothing coming out . Assuming my switch went ,I replaced it with a “ Briidea 50 amp switch off Amazon . Hooked it all up, Generator side works perfect. But when I hooked up my rv to my 30 amp plug in my garage, I’m still getting power in but nothing out ?? Can you help?
My first instinct is to check your cord, or your 50- 30 dog bone
If possible add this Transfer Switch to an electrical system where a Solar System and a current Inverter are present in addition to Generator and the Shore Input Line?
is this one you recommend? I am suspecting issues with my pts
I would recommend this model, I don't endorse this company or promote their products at a professional capacity, but can tell you I find these to be well built and reliable.
If the answer is Yes,How do I connect it? Thanks.
How do bypass the switch
@RobNickle Unplug the RV. Remove the wires from the output side of the primary contactor, then choose shore or generator and remove them frome the contactor and wire nut black to black, white to white, red to red. This will disable the ability to transfer between shore and generator but will provide temporary power until the switch can be changed. Remember I strongly recommend a skilled RV Technician or electrician perform this bypass, I do not take any responsibility for damage or injury should you attempt this yourself.
@MRRVTECH thank you. This is second time it failed from new. Only 6month old unit. Can i eliminate this completely?@@MRRVTECH
@RobNickle Not if you want the ability to transfer from shore to generator. You should have a 1 year warranty on that newer switch, make them give you a new one. If it's not surge guard brand perhaps consider Changing to it.
@MRRVTECH thx for the quick response. Ok thats good to know. This is a full time living unit with shore power. So if im understanding correct it's only design is to go from gen or shore as options. My concern is when the warranty is over and it goes again then I gotta pay. I really just wanna eliminate it safely.