When in doubt, grab the DVM. Check the outlet at the power post, then the input side of the transfer switch, then the output side of the relay. I’ve experienced a bad power post outlet before as well, and quickly showed the maintenance guy before the “it’s probably your equipment” discussion started. 😉
Great video. My problem was my shore power at Rv park in FL was dropping out but my generator worked fine. Everyone said it was my transfer switch which made no sense because shore power in Alabama worked fine. I made the decision to move to another park in FL and shore power worked perfectly. So I believe the power was dropping at the first park causing the problem
Do not rely on a non-contact voltage detector to determine if a line is safe to touch! ONLY use a working DMM you have tested on a known good circuit. You can use the NCV to test the cabinet before touching and to identify hot vs. neutral or ground wires but the DMM is what you bet your life on. You can probe each leg of a circuit to ground to see if out of acceptable range. If you ever lose your transfer switch or genny and your batteries are fading, you can always run an extension cord from a working pedestal to the batteries and use a simple charger (depending upon the type of batteries you have) and have enough power to run the basics such as fridge, lights, etc. The worst thing about RV's compared to houses isn't the different equipment used or wriing schemes- it's the very limited access. It would be relatively easy to test, maintain, repair and replace most equipment and components on an RV if you could just get to it.
Having spent the last almost 5 years living in what we Brits call a touring caravan (probably similar to what you might know as a 5th wheel trailer) I feel your pain, but there is something you need to know and accept - RVs/5th Wheels are brilliant for vacations, even extended ones, but they really aren't designed to be lived in 247/365. You need to be prepared to fix pretty much anything on the fly, these vehicles just aren't built to take the unintentional abuse we give them, when we use them as a permanent home, so expect every fixture and fitting to break at some point and either be equipped to deal with that, or have the budget to pull into the nearest shop and have them fix it for you. That might sound a little negative, but when I started on this route, that was the one piece of advice no-one gave me, so I wasn't prepared and it's come back to haunt me a few times, so I hope it helps you.
I know that this is an old video, but why were you plugged into a 30amp instead of a 50 amp for your RV? Also, is that "surge Protection" lamp supposed to be lit at the bottom?
Just ran across your video and just wanted to say i have had the same problem. I have 50 amp service and 2 times had people tell me the problem was my cord. Well boths times I spent 8 hours working and trouble shooting my rig only to find out it was not my problem. Spent a ton of time and hard earned money fixing things that were not my problem. On a 50 amp pedestal one leg can get weak and will fail.
Do you know why my transfer switch would trip the shore power breakers when I put the lid on the transfer box? I found the lid was off on my sprinter class C. 30amp model 41301A. When I put the lid on it trips the breaker
We have the same thing, its always during the early morning from 1am to 5am we have half the power go away. I can here my EMS breaker come back in. I am never able to get to meter to see what happens.
When in doubt, grab the DVM. Check the outlet at the power post, then the input side of the transfer switch, then the output side of the relay. I’ve experienced a bad power post outlet before as well, and quickly showed the maintenance guy before the “it’s probably your equipment” discussion started. 😉
Great video. My problem was my shore power at Rv park in FL was dropping out but my generator worked fine. Everyone said it was my transfer switch which made no sense because shore power in Alabama worked fine. I made the decision to move to another park in FL and shore power worked perfectly. So I believe the power was dropping at the first park causing the problem
What transfer switch did you go with?
Do not rely on a non-contact voltage detector to determine if a line is safe to touch! ONLY use a working DMM you have tested on a known good circuit. You can use the NCV to test the cabinet before touching and to identify hot vs. neutral or ground wires but the DMM is what you bet your life on.
You can probe each leg of a circuit to ground to see if out of acceptable range.
If you ever lose your transfer switch or genny and your batteries are fading, you can always run an extension cord from a working pedestal to the batteries and use a simple charger (depending upon the type of batteries you have) and have enough power to run the basics such as fridge, lights, etc.
The worst thing about RV's compared to houses isn't the different equipment used or wriing schemes- it's the very limited access. It would be relatively easy to test, maintain, repair and replace most equipment and components on an RV if you could just get to it.
Having spent the last almost 5 years living in what we Brits call a touring caravan (probably similar to what you might know as a 5th wheel trailer) I feel your pain, but there is something you need to know and accept - RVs/5th Wheels are brilliant for vacations, even extended ones, but they really aren't designed to be lived in 247/365.
You need to be prepared to fix pretty much anything on the fly, these vehicles just aren't built to take the unintentional abuse we give them, when we use them as a permanent home, so expect every fixture and fitting to break at some point and either be equipped to deal with that, or have the budget to pull into the nearest shop and have them fix it for you.
That might sound a little negative, but when I started on this route, that was the one piece of advice no-one gave me, so I wasn't prepared and it's come back to haunt me a few times, so I hope it helps you.
Thanks for your question! It's featured on our LIVE Q&A on 10/04/2020
Excellent video - thank you!
I know that this is an old video, but why were you plugged into a 30amp instead of a 50 amp for your RV?
Also, is that "surge Protection" lamp supposed to be lit at the bottom?
Just ran across your video and just wanted to say i have had the same problem. I have 50 amp service and 2 times had people tell me the problem was my cord. Well boths times I spent 8 hours working and trouble shooting my rig only to find out it was not my problem. Spent a ton of time and hard earned money fixing things that were not my problem. On a 50 amp pedestal one leg can get weak and will fail.
Did you link to the transfer switch? I'm not seeing it. Thank you!
Do you know why my transfer switch would trip the shore power breakers when I put the lid on the transfer box? I found the lid was off on my sprinter class C. 30amp model 41301A. When I put the lid on it trips the breaker
Got to love a happy ending :-)
Thank goodness :)
There was a ground fault at the first park, if you would’ve removed the surge protection it would have worked.
Instead of a surge protector check into an EMS system. Supposed to give more information and better protection. They do cost more though.
Thanks for the question, we are answering on our LIVE Q&A right now! 10/11/2020
The second you said breaker, I thought Dan...
LOL!
God bless
pretty good with electronics eh?
yet you dont carry a multimeter
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
no
I do Fluke 115
Lost power to half the RV.
We have the same thing, its always during the early morning from 1am to 5am we have half the power go away. I can here my EMS breaker come back in. I am never able to get to meter to see what happens.
good info.. thx