Doing well, James, thank you for reaching out! New video posting tomorrow night at 7pm with (hopefully) one video per week thereafter for the rest of the year :) Was a pretty wild summer, but I’m thrilled to get back in the garage this fall
I have a lot of chainsaws some of them high end Husqvarnas and every single one leaks bar oil. It’s not really a completely sealed system, but something you can do is open up the reservoir after use to release any pressure that may be built up.
Cool setup Peter! Have you thought about the dangers of all the lithium batteries? Maybe a fire proof drywall setup between garage and house, and fire alarm and fire suppression system. I have a charging station in my garage and worry about fire control.
Thanks, Doc. I haven’t given too much thought to fire suppression. What I’ve taken to doing is turning off the surge protector when I am not in the garage, and generally removing batteries once they’re full. Will have to give more thought to the rest of it
I added a countdown timer to my charging station. When I charge a battery or batteries I set the timer for a little over typical charge time. Usually around 1.5 hours. Then the timer shuts the power down. I have my chargers mounted on concrete too.
I'm invested in two (kinda three, but really two), DeWalt 20v/60v, and Snap-On 14.4v. DeWalt 60v saws are the bees knees. And the batteries work on their 20v tools too. I got a couple DeWalt 12v tools, but those have been relegated to backup duty only. Snap-Ons 14.4v is superior to both DeWalt and Milwaukee 12v stuff. And DeWalt 20v and 60v have been becoming superior to all others in every way lately.
It’s hard once you get into any one brand to switch out. Some of the snap on stuff is interesting to me but the thought of starting over fills me with angst. There’s definitely better options for certain tools that Milwaukee m12, but I can’t get over the hump to try at this point
@@HeyDerFolks I definitely get that. That is one reason I stuck with DeWalt though the 2010's when they weren't innovating and Milwaukee was kicking their ass - didn't want to "reinvest" in another platform. It paid off though, with all the new "best in class" launches they've been making the past couple years (DCF900, DCF961, DCF891, DCF921/923, DCF845, DCF850, DCF860, DCD1007, etc). I do wish they would make more types of tools, as Milwaukee does have a few neat tools that DeWalt doesn't make at all, but I don't want multiple battery platforms, and I'm not ditching my "big boys" (961, 891, 1007) nor my 60v tools that Milwaukee doesn't even have competition for, so I'll wait it out, lol. However, after I got my hands on the Snap-On 3/8 long neck ratchet, that things a beast, I decided to add Snap-On 14.4v to my lineup, and ditch the pathetic DeWalt 12v lineup. The only "good" thing about their 12v lineup is that the batteries charge on the same charger (not dual port like Milwaukee and Snap-On) as the 20v and 60v batteries - so that's convenient.
The ryobi charger has a transformer in the wall plug so it’s low voltage The Milwaukee plugs are 120v in the wire. I don’t think you can solder 120v ac connections. I’m not an electrician. But I know you can’t splice romex in your house like that, either a junction box or a molex self contained connector I know in a shop if an extension cord is nicked it’s trash, can’t mend it You can add plug ends to them but no splicing Edit. Can’t find anything that says your 120V AC splice is ok Complete rewire or plug ends or molex self contained or a junction box
I was unaware of another way to run their cabling behind the board. Some folks have since recommended I added a new plug rather than splicing, which is fair. I hadn’t considered that. The cords themselves are soldered to the chargers so I couldn’t unplug them to hide them
@HeyDerFolks you drilled a 3/4 inch hole in your board to run the wire through the hole the plug should have fit through that 3/4 inch hole without cutting the cords on all chargers
It did not fit in the hole I drilled, I tried. Perhaps if I had drilled a 1 inch hole it would’ve, but then I didn’t have the rubber grommet and I indexed towards impatience
Hope you’re doing well Peter; haven’t seen a video upload in a while. Always enjoy your content! 🙏🏻
Doing well, James, thank you for reaching out! New video posting tomorrow night at 7pm with (hopefully) one video per week thereafter for the rest of the year :) Was a pretty wild summer, but I’m thrilled to get back in the garage this fall
Wow looks great. Love organization and no cords. Keep the videos coming
Thanks!
I have a lot of chainsaws some of them high end Husqvarnas and every single one leaks bar oil. It’s not really a completely sealed system, but something you can do is open up the reservoir after use to release any pressure that may be built up.
Fair point. I will take your advice in terms of letting out the pressure in the future. Thanks for the tip!
Cool setup Peter! Have you thought about the dangers of all the lithium batteries? Maybe a fire proof drywall setup between garage and house, and fire alarm and fire suppression system. I have a charging station in my garage and worry about fire control.
Thanks, Doc. I haven’t given too much thought to fire suppression. What I’ve taken to doing is turning off the surge protector when I am not in the garage, and generally removing batteries once they’re full. Will have to give more thought to the rest of it
I added a countdown timer to my charging station. When I charge a battery or batteries I set the timer for a little over typical charge time. Usually around 1.5 hours. Then the timer shuts the power down. I have my chargers mounted on concrete too.
Love the videos! Especially the snap on ones. Keep it up!
Thanks! I should have another snap on unboxing in the next week or so 😄
Looks great! Nice DIY project. Looking forward to the next video!
Another great video
Thanks, Justin!
I'm invested in two (kinda three, but really two), DeWalt 20v/60v, and Snap-On 14.4v.
DeWalt 60v saws are the bees knees. And the batteries work on their 20v tools too. I got a couple DeWalt 12v tools, but those have been relegated to backup duty only. Snap-Ons 14.4v is superior to both DeWalt and Milwaukee 12v stuff. And DeWalt 20v and 60v have been becoming superior to all others in every way lately.
It’s hard once you get into any one brand to switch out. Some of the snap on stuff is interesting to me but the thought of starting over fills me with angst. There’s definitely better options for certain tools that Milwaukee m12, but I can’t get over the hump to try at this point
@@HeyDerFolks I definitely get that. That is one reason I stuck with DeWalt though the 2010's when they weren't innovating and Milwaukee was kicking their ass - didn't want to "reinvest" in another platform. It paid off though, with all the new "best in class" launches they've been making the past couple years (DCF900, DCF961, DCF891, DCF921/923, DCF845, DCF850, DCF860, DCD1007, etc). I do wish they would make more types of tools, as Milwaukee does have a few neat tools that DeWalt doesn't make at all, but I don't want multiple battery platforms, and I'm not ditching my "big boys" (961, 891, 1007) nor my 60v tools that Milwaukee doesn't even have competition for, so I'll wait it out, lol. However, after I got my hands on the Snap-On 3/8 long neck ratchet, that things a beast, I decided to add Snap-On 14.4v to my lineup, and ditch the pathetic DeWalt 12v lineup. The only "good" thing about their 12v lineup is that the batteries charge on the same charger (not dual port like Milwaukee and Snap-On) as the 20v and 60v batteries - so that's convenient.
Looks great!
Thanks!
Looks real nice
Thanks, Warren!
Great Job
Thanks, Scott!
Cool video Peter!
Thanks, Hunter!
The ryobi charger has a transformer in the wall plug so it’s low voltage
The Milwaukee plugs are 120v in the wire. I don’t think you can solder 120v ac connections.
I’m not an electrician. But I know you can’t splice romex in your house like that, either a junction box or a molex self contained connector
I know in a shop if an extension cord is nicked it’s trash, can’t mend it
You can add plug ends to them but no splicing
Edit. Can’t find anything that says your 120V AC splice is ok
Complete rewire or plug ends or molex self contained or a junction box
In hindsight I wished I just bought new plug ends and didn’t splice, but I honestly never considered that at the time. This is how we learn 😌
Why would you cut the cords on all of chargers ?
I was unaware of another way to run their cabling behind the board. Some folks have since recommended I added a new plug rather than splicing, which is fair. I hadn’t considered that. The cords themselves are soldered to the chargers so I couldn’t unplug them to hide them
@HeyDerFolks you drilled a 3/4 inch hole in your board to run the wire through the hole the plug should have fit through that 3/4 inch hole without cutting the cords on all chargers
It did not fit in the hole I drilled, I tried. Perhaps if I had drilled a 1 inch hole it would’ve, but then I didn’t have the rubber grommet and I indexed towards impatience
why didnt you just go to homedepot and get new plugs?
Not following. How would that have helped? What new plugs would I be buying, exactly?