Ford 7.3 Powerstroke Complete A/C compressor, Accumulator, and Orifice Tube Replacement!!!!
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- in this video, I replace the A/C compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in my 2002 7.3 excursion. I show you how to replace the compressor, add new oil, change the accumulator and replace the orifice tube as well as a description of how a vacuum pump works, and how to vacuum down the system and recharge it.
FOLLOW ALONG GUYS!!!!
This is a fantastic, step-by-step, video! I just replaced the a/c compressor, accumulator and orifice tube in my 2003 7.3L using this as my guide and the job was a pleasure to do. Thanks for having such helpful content! Thanks also for your quick reply to my earlier question.
The compressor converts a low pressure cold vapor to a hot real high pressure hot vapor . In a perfect world. Outstanding bid Young man keep up the good work 👍
I have a 2000 F350 that I bought at 5yrs old and the a/c struggled when I bought it. It started to fail after about 2yrs of ownership. I took it into I think 4 or 5 different shops and none of them could diagnose it correctly. All thought it had a leak somewhere, one just jumped the high pressure switch and others just evacuated and recharged the system. All of the fixes were temporary. Towards the end the a/c would come on but once the engine bay warmed up it would quit until I'd get on the accelerator, then it would come back on momentarily. It's been doing that off and on for many years now. I've tried the fast fill cans every once in a while out of pure desperation because it's so dang hot but that didn't work.
The a/c had become a sore subject with me and everyone had their "fix", even though it'd been into multiple shops and worked on by "experts".
Recently I was talking with a friend at work and he was an a/c tech for many years. I was skeptical but he mentioned a weak or failing compressor and nobody had said that to me. Before I started the job I got the usual "you're wasting your money" and "go see my buddy" speeches. I picked up a set of guages off Amazon and a compressor kit from autozone.
I followed your video to the letter and for the first time in probably 15yrs, the air conditioning is blowing ice cold air in the heat of summer. I couldn't be happier with your detailed instruction. Thank you.
All total between the compressor kit, vacuum pump, release tools and freon I'm in it about $600, but I was ready to pay double or triple just to have it fixed. Btw, Harbor Frt has some really nice anodized aluminum release tools in a set for $13.
Again, huge thank you for the help on this.
New subscriber.
You are very.welcome. Im glad that you were able to get it sorted out. Prior to me opening my offroad and diesel shop (that i have opened since making this video), i did commercial A/C and refrigeration. I kind of nerd out on AC stuff because its always interested me. I get quite a bit of people coming in who have had AC issues either made worse, or improperly diagnosed elsewhere. For some reason, no one considers that the compressor may he an issue unless it totally dies. I usually look at the discharge pressure and suction as there are some tell tales if the compressor is starting to die. If its on its way out and you happen to have the system open, you will normally notice what we call "black death", which will be nasty black oil and residue which will ocasionally be accompanied by pieces of metal and what will look like oring material. Its pieces of the compressor coming apart. I actually have an 04 excursion that i picked up a few months ago and its in for an AC replacement. I pulled the charge to check the little strainer basket that is in the feed line to the rear evap and its full of debris and black death. When the gauges were put on the system, you could see the high side needle bouncing which usually indicates that the discharge valves on the compressor are on their way out. I picked up a new compressor, condenser, accumulator, screen for the rear evap, and a new orifice tube for the front. I also picked up a severe duty fan clutch that locks up and spins the fan at a higher RPM vs the standard units. Itll help keep the AC cold when the truck is sitting at idle at a light, and itll keep the engine cooler as well.
Thank you for your support. If you have any questions, feel free to ask away.
Nice video! I have the Harbor Freight Gauge set too. On a side note if you go to put R143A in and it goes it really slow, then replace the Low Hose Coupler Valve on the end of the Blue Hose. This shook me for a loop for awhile. Once I replaced the Coupler it worked as it should. Only one more thing, to handle R134A in the states you don't need an EPA license to buy or use it at "Home", but you may if you have a "Business", just thought I'd make that clear for anyone watching. Loved the video so much I added it to my own channels playlist of AC Videos. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much for the videos. Really appreciate it well done.
@@darwinhippen7010 you are welcome. Thank you for the kind words.
Great content! I especially appreciated the vacuum demonstration and explanation. I'm having issues with my 7.3L a/c and trying to determine if I can handle this myself so this video was super useful to me. Thanks!
Hey brother, PERFECT video. Love the details and simple points while working in first person. You are why youtube is legendary.
Excellent job! Very educational, and clear on explaining how the process works.
Right on. Doing this now on my 7.3. Thx 4 the comprehensive.
Nice tutorial along with the maintenance procedure. You almost made it look too easy.
Thanks for a great video!
thanks for the vid good content
Awesome job. You ready for mine?
cool truck and vid
Three words: Ford Black Death. Always flush system components (evaporator(s) lines. Do not flush compressor/condenser. Remove and replace compressor, condenser, orifice tube, receiver/drier (accumulator). In the Excursion you should replace the rear ac TXV since they are prone to get stuck/clogged with debris. Add correct amount of oil and charge factory weight with a scale and not cans! Use a 30lb cylinder.
Do you have links to the parts and tools?
Have you ran it in the summer? How is it working in the summer?
I hope you can see this its normal for the evaporator to release air on top of it or how do you know when the evaporator is bad🙏🏻🙏🏻
You have the best video on this subject,but I have one step keeping me from completing this task. How did you get the accumulator nut at the top loose? I have tried everything I can to break this nut set apart and you omitted this on your video.
The nut on the line.going.from the accumulator.to the evap? I used 3 foot and 4 foot pipe wrench. Its on there ungodly tight.
I have a 99 regular cab f350. I put in 32oz and it got down to 60f at the vents. With an AC Machine at the shop. 100f ambient max AC. Should it be colder? Complete brand new system. I can’t find the exact spec online for the capacity. Anything more than 32oz and it gets warmer. I’m stumped.
How can I find this part (4c2z-19e558-ba) for the AC system in a 2000 E-350 Van. Ford said it is unavailable now?
Also my ac works but my heat doesnt work at all any ideas? Im reasonably certain its not heater core
Im in florida would you do the block off mod to block off rear heater core?
What brand orifice tube are you using???
This is an AWESOME video. My a/c compressor tanked on me yesterday. One question I have is how do I capture (or is it possible for me to) any refrigerant that might be left in my system?
Thanks for the complement. I really appreciate it. The only way to properly capture the refrigerant is with the use of a recovery machine. They are quite expensive and usually only owned by repair shops or HVAC techs. You could take your truck to a shop that does a/c and have them recover the refrigerant and then do your repairs and then vaccum it down with a vacuum pump and gauges that are rented from the parts store, and you can fill the system from the small cans of R134 from the parts store. Just fill it per its stated weight. 1lb= 16 ounces and the cans normally hold 12oz, so a 3 lb 2 oz system would hold 50 oz, which is 4.16 cans. You could also have a shop refill it.
@@BrotherhoodOfTorque Thank you so much for the quick reply and guidance!
Mechanics hate you doing your own work
How much pag did u put in accumulator
not the best camera work but thanks for the video
Also, most of the places and tech data that I have read state to fill the accumulator with some oil before you seal it... I didnt see you do that. When you vacuumed the system, did it pull any oil out or just air?
The accumulator I had already had some oil in it. There is no specifoed amount so a just a bit will do. When the vaccuum pump runs, no oil should come out. Just air and non condensables.
@@BrotherhoodOfTorque hey thank you for your information. How is it running in the summer?
@@BrotherhoodOfTorque take it that yours needed some touch ups? I did the vacuum test and it did suck the oil. Only poured 3 oz in the accumulator.
@@gabewalker7604 im not sure what you mean by touch up. When you pull a vacuum, you should never have oil get sucked out. The vacuum is pulled prior to charging in order to remove moisture, air, and non condensables so that the system works properly. The vacuum is supossed to be pulled gradually, and on a system as small as these, the vacuum pump or gauges should be throttled to control the rate until the pump has been on for a while, and then the valve on the pump or gauges can be fully opened.
@@BrotherhoodOfTorque Oh nothing major I was just curious if you had to do anything extra after you finished. I was just seeing how your rig fared after the completion of your kit during the summer timeframe?
That chewing gum is killing me